June2011Newsletter - Coalition for Orchid Species

Transcription

Meets every third Monday of the month
June 2011
The COALITION
for ORCHID SPECIES
at Fairchild Tropical Botanic Gardens
10901 Old Cutler Road
Coral Gables, Florida
www.cosspecies.com
PRESIDENT’S MESSAGE
Dear COS members and friends,
What weather in Miami, it is so hot that I cannot work with my orchids after 11:00 a.m.
Try to protect your orchids as much as possible from the heat. Switch your orchid around so they
never get sun after 11:00 am - at least no direct sun.
Water them more often. If you water by hand, spray as early as possible so they stay wet
for a longer period of time.
As soon as daily rains begin, remember to protect them from fungus. I spray mine with
water and a teaspoon of algaecide - the one you buy at Home Depot, (people use it for pools too
now is 20%, and so it is stronger.)
Last month we had Anne Purificacion from the Philippines. She was a great communicator
and gave us lots of information about many orchids that are dear to us.
This month we will hear Andean Hunberger, who, will be teaching us how to protect and
care for your babies against all sorts of diseases and pests that are attract to them. Every Sunday I
look forward to reading her column in the garden section of the Miami Herald.
In the meantime, I hope to see you all at the meeting.
Keep growing your beautiful Orchids!
Mirta
This Months Speaker Will Be -
Adrian Hunsberger "Pests that Attach Our Orchids"
Ms. Hunsberger is the Urban Horticulture Agent and Master Gardener Coordinator at the University of Florida, Miami-Dade County Extension office in Homestead, Florida. Adrian holds a
BS degree in Horticulture from Virginia Tech and a MS degree in Entomology from the University of Florida. Adrian has over 13 years of research experience at the University of Florida
using biological and organic pest control methods.
Coalit ion for Orchid Species
BITS and PIECES
June 2011
Page 2
by Mirta Russis-Heineman
Notes on Conservation
We are very happy to announce that Julie Armstrong is the Chairperson of the Conservation
Committee. All should make plans to help her in this effort. If you are interested in helping, remember there is no experience required, please contact her at her e-mail address [email protected]
We were planning to place some orchids on the trees at the Juvenile Courthouse at the end of
this month. However, Richard Fulford who is helping us with this program is out of the country.
So we are going to postpone it for a later date, which we will let you know.
COS Members Private Tour
This year as we planned on May 28 a group of COS members and guests went on Fairchild‟s private tour. We had a delightful morning. That weekend they had the Cactus and Succulents Sale
and Show in the Garden Room which we all attended after the tour. When we plan theses activities, be sure to come and enjoy all the benefits of your COS membership.
See the photos of that day in the Newsletter. On page 4.
Continued on next page
JOIN COS FOR A YEAR OF ORCHIDACIOUS FUN!
We are now accepting COS membership dues for 2011:
Single $25;
Dual $35; Family (3+ persons) $45.
Join COS and get a
beautiful pin with our
society emblem!
Please bring cash or checks to the next meeting and renew your orchid
If you would like to have something in the newsletter just send it to Bill Capps at [email protected].
I reserve the right to edit the piece to fit allowable space and for content.
"In June, as many as a dozen species may burst their buds on a single day. No man can heed all of
these anniversaries; no man can ignore all of them."
- Aldo Leopold
BITS and PIECES
June 2011
Page 3
by Mirta Russis-Heineman
Open House at the USDA
On Saturday, June 5, we attended an infrequent Open House at the US Department
of Agriculture tropical plant and tree conservatory off Old Cutler Road near Deering
Bay.
A small band of notorious COS orchid-huggers made it to the event as volunteers:
Lori, Judie, Bill, Ketty and Mirta.
Additionally, we had been invited to set a up table in a green, shady spot to let people
know about COS. Thus we had an opportunity to meet a most varied and interesting
group of people, advertise our Symposium, recruit some new members, and spend
much of the day in comfort, making friends and learning about what other people are
doing to conserve our environment.
As part of the day’s program the folks there had a lychee-tasting contest that we all
enjoyed – along with a number of other engaging activities. All guests, after registration, were given a Plumeria.
Unfortunately, we learned about this event too late to send a message in time for our
members to mobilize and enjoy it. Now COS is on the mailing list of the organization
that sponsored this program. Next year we will know to let you know so you too can
be there.
June 2011
COS‟s Private Tour
at Fairchild Tropical Botanical Gardens
Page 4
June 2011
Page 5
Invasion of the orchid snatchers
By Ella Davies Reporter, BBC Nature
Ruthless hunters track their prey around the globe, snatching stunning individuals from their homes before they can even be named. The
beauties only surface in the shadiest of nurseries and high prices for their lives are agreed under the counter by hungry-eyed collectors.
This is not the plot from a harrowing tale of people smuggling but the fate of rare and highly prized orchids. The plants have inspired
frenzied collection since the 18th century with their lustrous blooms and incredible variety. Now, scientists say the illegal collection of
orchids is pushing species to the edge of extinction, with dire consequences for biodiversity. With some vulnerable species available on
the black market before they can even be formally named, biologists and customs officers alike are battling to preserve the captivating
plants.
Sex appeal
Admired for their beauty, orchids make up the largest family of flowering plants (Orchidaceae) with over 26,000 species. The plants vary
enormously from tiny 3-4mm Bulbophyllum minutissimum to 20m long vanillas: lianas that grow high up in rainforest. What unites them is
the unique way they germinate from seeds, developing a tuberous mass of cells to form a seedling plant. For orchid admirers however it is
the sensual differences between the plants that inspire such admiration and many are driven wild by the unique shape, scent and sight of
new species. Victorian Britons referred to the condition as "orchidelerium", an insatiable lust for collecting the plants. From delicate
ghost orchids to the beautifully coloured petals of Cattleya, the aesthetic appeal of orchids is obvious. Throughout history the plants have
been considered "overtly sexual" with voluptuous blooms sporting enlarged lips (labellum): pouting platforms to entice insect pollinators.
But the individuality and appeal of orchids also makes them vulnerable. "Orchids are naturally rare with many species only being known
from a handful of populations," says orchid expert Dr David Roberts from the Durrell Institute of Conservation and Ecology at the University of Kent, UK. "Smuggling only effects the groups that are specifically in demand which isn't all orchids. However for the groups
that are sought after, such as slipper orchids, it is a big problem."
High price
Rare species can fetch a pretty penny; a single stem of the Rotchschild's Orchid (Paphiopedilum rothschildianum), known as the Gold of Kinabalu, is reported to command prices of around $5000. After its discovery in 1987 this slipper orchid, remarkable for its imposing horizontal petals, was stripped from the wild by orchid smugglers bringing it close to extinction. Despite reintroduction of the plant from
cultivated seedlings, it is still described as endangered and its few known wild locations in Kinabalu National Park in Sabah, Malaysia are
kept a closely guarded secret. However, not all species are afforded the same protection. Last year, Asian orchid expert Dr Jaap J Vermeulen studied an orchid collected by conservationists in a national park in Sarawak, Malaysia. But before he could describe the new species to science, it had been introduced to the black market. "Bulbophyllum kubahense is a particularly beautiful species with a dense [cluster]
of fairly large, white, heavily purple spotted flowers. That makes it desirable to orchid growers," Dr Vermeulen explains. "Traders found
the species in a conservation area, and first thought that is was a particularly luxuriant form of another, similar looking species... Plants
appeared in nurseries in Sarawak, Singapore and Thailand." Through his analysis, published in the journal Plant Systematics and Evolution, Dr Vermeulen confirmed that the plant was a "true novelty". "It is beautiful, and it is rare: only known from a single locality near
Kuching, Sarawak. That will put the price up, and with it the collecting pressure on the natural population," he warns.
Populations stripped
This is not the first time an orchid has been endangered before it has even been formally described. Such is the demand from collectors,
smugglers scour the globe for new species of orchid, sometimes removing whole populations of plants before anyone else knows of their
existence. Dr Vermeulen cites examples from peninsular Malaysia and Vietnam but the most famous example comes from Peru. Phragmipedium kovachii was first found in 2001 and is referred to as one of the most important natural history discoveries of the last decade. A
foot tall with striking purple blooms, it is a distinctive member of the lady's slipper family, named for their slipper-shaped petal pouches.
Orchid dealer James Kovach bought the orchid from a roadside vendor in Peru and travelled back to his native US with it. Within days,
the Peruvian authorities asked the US Fish and Wildlife Service to investigate the plant, as all Phragmipedium are banned from export under
the Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species (CITES). After its initial description, illegally plucked specimens of P. kovachii were reportedly changing hands amongst frenzied growers for as much as $10,000. Kovach received two years probation and was
made to pay a fine of $1000 for violating the endangered species act. The orchid still bears the name kovachii but is now limited to a few
authorised growers in Peru. Although conservationists acknowledge the prosecution, they say the fines are not high enough to deter
smugglers from their billion dollar enterprise. "To a dedicated collector of wild-sourced orchids, price has no bearing," says Dr Richard
Thomas, from the wildlife trade monitoring network Traffic International. Dr Thomas says it is "notoriously difficult" to estimate the
value of illicit trade.
June 2011
Page 6
Ruthless collection
According to Traffic's figures, the legal trade in live orchids in Europe alone involves more than 370 million plants. These orchids adhere
to the CITES regulations: they come from licensed nurseries that hold the appropriate permits for international trade. In these nurseries,
single specimens are duplicated through micropropagation: creating thousands of cloned plants for the consumer market. Despite advances, this process is costly and time-consuming. The cloned plants are also considered inferior by collectors that value the variety in
wild orchids' blooms. "There are a small number of hard core 'collectors' for whom only a wild-sourced orchid will do, and they can be
ruthless in their pursuit of this goal," says Dr Thomas. "This can have a devastating impact on newly discovered species, where there is
likely to be a demand created for the plant almost overnight."
Protecting the future
The UK's rarest orchid, Cypripedium calceolus, receives round-the-clock police surveillance where it grows on a Lancashire golf course. But
this level of protection is not globally consistent. In the rainforests of South America and Asia, protecting individual species is an epic
task. Beyond the practical difficulties of surveying entire rainforests with limited resources, conservationists also have to contend with
the pressures of developing nations. According to the International Union for Conservation of Nature's orchid specialist group, tropical
orchid habitat is vanishing as timber is removed, minerals mined and land cleared for roads and housing. Some collectors insist that, by
removing orchids from areas under threat from human development, they are protecting the future of species. For some orchids, their
only hope lies in ex-situ conservation: cultivation in nurseries is the only thing keeping species like Paphiopedilum vietnamenese from extinction. In the interests of biodiversity however, conservationists maintain that orchids must be protected in their natural environment. "For
species with highly restricted ranges and severely threatened habitat, any removal of wild specimens poses a significant threat," says Dr
Thomas. "The loss of any one species is a tragedy - the world needs rich biological diversity to survive. Species have taken millennia to
evolve, but can be lost in days."
Taken from BBC Nature Features May 19, 2011
http://www.bbc.co.uk/nature/12774613
An illustration of the rare Bulbophyllum kubahense
The longest orchid vine is Vanilla planifolia. The plant is actually a monopodial orchid which can grow up to 100
feet, or 30.5 meters, in its native habitat of Central America. Vanilla was first used by the Aztecs as a flavoring and
introduced to the west by the Spanish Conquistadors.
June 2011
Page 7
My Visit to Puerto Rico…
By Mirta Heineman
Last month I visited Puerto Rico by invitation of the Circulo de Amigos Orquidistas de Puerto Rico and its Vice
-President, Dr. Ramon Reyes, who is a member of COS.
CAOPR holds its meetings in the San Juan Botanical Garden, a very beautiful place carpeted with many, many
native plants and other lush greenery. They meet in one of the shelters in the Garden on the first Sunday of
the month in the early afternoon.
I found the members and their visitors very friendly, as were the Board of Directors. It was a rainy day, but as
many of you know that is a daily happening in Puerto Rico. Members and guests show up to the meeting
with their umbrellas. The Show-and-Tell part of the program was most animated!. CAOPR places a lot of
emphasis on species, especially its native species.
I gave a presentation on Encyclias and they welcomed me with great enthusiasm. I took some pictures of the
occasion to share with you.
From the beginning to the end it was a great experience.
Thank- you for the invitation, Amigos de Puerto Rico.
June 2011
Symposium
Sunday Coalition for Orchid Species
July 24, 2011
8 am to 4 pm Fairchild Tropical Botanic Garden
In the Garden Room 10901 Old Cutler Road, Coral Gables, FL
Tickets:
$45.00 for COS members $50.00 for non-COS members
Price includes lectures, raffles, continental breakfast, and buffet lunch.
Five Fantastic Speakers:
Peter Lin, Big Leaf Orchids, - Phalaenopsis Species
Greg Allikas, Orchidworks.com, AOS Photographer Four Pairs of Eight of a Kind: The Confused Bifoliates
Prem Subrahmanyam, FLNativeOrchids.com Orchids in Our Backyard: Florida’s Wild Orchids
Roy Tokunaga, H&R Nurseries, AOS Judge Dendrobium Species: Growing and Flowering
Specimen Plants
Fred Clarke, Sunset Valley Orchids, AOS Judge The Species of Catasetum, Cycnoches, & Mormodes
Orchid sales will be available during the day,
as well as AOS judging.
Page 8
June 2011
Bus Trip 2011
Page 9
June 2011
Bus Trip 2011
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June 2011
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Bus Trip 2011
See a slide show of the bus trip on the COS Facebook page. Or go to
http://www.slideshare.net/cappsb/cos-bus-trip
June 2011
Page 12
Bus Trip 2011 Collage
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June 2011
Hydroponics, and First Rays' "SEMI-HYDROPONIC
"
TM
Orchid Culture Technique
Most experienced orchid growers will acknowledge that the majority of orchid culture is hydroponic in nature, as the medium is there primarily for mechanical support, and provides little, in any, nutrition to the plant, with that being provided
by the nutrient solutions used.
When most folks think of hydroponics, it's in the context of "ebb-and-flow," nutrient film, or nutrient mist (aeroponic) culture techniques. I don't feel that those are appropriate for orchids, due to the possibility of pathogen transport through
the nutrient bath, not to mention the costs involved, so I have experimented for years in an effort to find a culture technique that provides the best conditions for the plants, as well as a minimum in labor for the grower.
I grow nearly all of my personal collection of plants in individual-pot hydroponics, using PrimeAgra® spherical ceramic
media, in what I refer to as a "semi-hydroponicTM" method (don't get hung up on the name, it's simply a way to differentiate it from the methods I described above):
For containers, I use custom-made plastic pots , but have, in the past, used painters buckets, food storage containers,
trash cans, etc, with closed bottoms. I have even used Styrofoam coolers. Those pots have two or three quarter-inch
diameter holes about one inch up from the bottom on the sides. The function of the design is described below.
The medium is another key component of the culture technique; it must be inert so it won't decompose, fairly uniform in
particle size so it provides lots of free air space, and must provide good capillary (wicking) action to keep it uniformly
moist. I started this culture technique using a custom "semi-hydroponicTM" medium, which was sponge-rock (very coarse
perlite, with chunks typically 1/2-3/4") and coarse charcoal, mixed in about 50-50 ratio, and, although it had a reasonably
long life, it was not reusable, and over time, root growth appears to break down the sponge rock, which limits air
flow. After much experimenting, I have found a medium that really fits the bill: one-half-inch diameter PrimeAgraTM ceramic medium that can be reused indefinitely. Click on that link for more details about the medium. If you want to see
how PrimeAgra® compares to other inert, inorganic media,
Potting is very similar to that with more traditional media, except that, instead of compressing the medium around the
roots as you pot, you want to shake the pot when pouring medium around the roots, so it will get into the spaces within
the root ball. Pot your plants to a normal depth. Be sure to soak the medium thoroughly (I prefer overnight) before potting. Adding Dyna-Gro K-L-N Root Grow to the presoak also helps.
NOTE ON SIZE OF MEDIUM TO USE: Most clay aggregate materials are available in fine and coarse grades. We recommend the coarse grade for almost all plants, with the exception of small, really fine-rooted plants such as pleurothallids
or tiny seedlings. If you try growing larger plants in the fine material, you will likely experience root rot in short order.
Don't be too concerned about using coarser material for fine-rooted plants, as they seem to adapt to it quite well
Watering frequency will vary with plant growth rate and ambient conditions, and may vary with the season. In fact, once
a plant is well-established, it literally cannot be overwatered, and flushing the pot frequently eliminates plant waste products and returns the reservoir chemistry to its "target" values, so is an advantage. At a bare minimum, try to water before
the pot dies out. We recommend feeding a somewhat dilute nutrient solution at every watering, and all of our plants get
either Dyna-Gro "Grow" (5-9-7) solution or the MSU-type fertilizer at a nitrogen dosage of about 100-150 ppm. When
using the Dyna-Go in my reverse osmosis (RO) water, we also add about 1/4 teaspoon of Pro-teKt to bring up the pH,
and about once a quarter, I'll add 1/2 tsp./gallon magnesium sulfate [Epsom Salts] to the solution as a supplement
(neither is necessary with the MSU fertilizer, as it provides the proper pH range in RO, and has plenty of magnesium and
sulfur already). Notice I don't water constantly...that's why I call it "semi-" hydroponic.
The watering technique is dependent on the pot used: when watering plants in our "semi-hydroponicTM" pots, fill the pot
to the top. It saturates the mix and then drains down to the level of the holes, which leaves the mix nice and airy, while
providing a reservoir to keep it moist by capillary action. If you're using the two-stage hydroponics pots with gauges, we
have found that it's best to stop adding solution at the moment you see the gauge just begin to move up from the bottom.
June 2011
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Paphiopedilums, phragmipediums, masdevallias, phalaenopsis, cattleyas, cymbidiums, oncidiums, dendrobiums, epidendrums, miltoniopsis, pleurothallids and zygopetalums all do great for me, along with a variety of other miscellaneous genera.
I've not had the guts to try vandaceous orchids as yet, but I'll get there eventually. Bromeliads and tropical house plants also
thrive under the conditions. DO NOT try any tolumnias in S/H culture - they just don't go for it!
had 4 spikes carrying over 300 blossoms! When carrying it back to the greenhouse from the household display location (my
kitchen), I dropped it, breaking the pot. To my amazement, the entire 12" diameter by 14" tall pot was just FULL of roots!
Most experienced orchid For those of you who have a tendency to "over-pot" plants, this culture method may offer you a real
"plus," as it appears that plants do quite well in large pots. For example, several years ago I moved an Oncidium Sharry Baby
'Sweet Fragrance' AM/AOS from a 3" pot of bark mix to a 12" Semi-hydro pot, and it has bloomed reliably ever since. In September of 1997, it had 4 spikes carrying over 300 blossoms! When carrying it back to the greenhouse from the household display location (my kitchen), I dropped it, breaking the pot. To my amazement, the entire 12" diameter by 14" tall pot was just
FULL of roots!
I know there is no "universal culture method" that is perfect for every grower and every genus, but I believe that the semihydroponicTM technique comes pretty close. When using the PrimeAgra® medium and the Dyna-Gro nutrient combination described above, I observe the following:
The plants are healthy and strong, and bloom reliably. Generally, I see improved size, color and durability in the
blossoms.
There is always a readily available moisture and food source, eliminating the stresses put on a plant when those
are lacking or only available intermittently.
It appears that one cannot overwater, as the pot design maintains a maximum level, and the medium controls the
distribution.
Root rot is virtually eliminated, as the airy nature of the medium, coupled with the holes in the side of the pot, allows plenty of air movement and gas exchange to keep the root zone fresh, and not saturated with carbon dioxide.
There is no noticeable salt buildup, due to the nature of the nutrients, the structure of the medium, and the flushing
action of the dilute solution.
COS presents ORCHID CLASSES taught
by Jim Davison, held at 6:45 prior to the general meeting
each month. Everyone attending this program will receive
a display-quality Certificate of Attendance from the Coalition for Orchid Species.
June 2011
Page 15
Volunteers Needed
This is a great chance to further our cause of orchid conservation.
We met Max Groso at the Open House U.S. Department of Agriculture at Chapman Field. He talked to us about „tremendous‟ Miami
which is trying to help Miami restore its natural canopy. With your
help we would like to use this opportunity to find projects we can work
with this group to further the cause of orchid conservation.
Coalition for Orchid Species
June 2011
Page 16
Get your raffle
tickets for a
chance to win
fabulous orchids from
outstanding
orchid venders.
GOT SPECIES?
Get your 2011 COS Newsletters on
the web at
www.cosspecies.com
Special Thanks to Webmasterdesigner Mike Haynes of ISatisfy.com, and Home Page photos by
Greg Allikas,
www.orchidworks.com!
MAE TANG ORCHIDS The Florida-Caribbean Regional
Holidays designed especially for
orchid enthusiasts.
Are you still planning your vacation for
2011? Why not join us for our 'Orchids of
Thailand' tour. We also have a tour to compliment the W.O.C. For more information including a slide show of our last tour:
www.theorchidman.com
Judging Center of the American Orchid Society invites you to bring your orchids
in flower to be judged by our teams of experienced
American Orchid Society Judges, or just come to
learn more about orchids and the process of judging orchids. We meet the THIRD Saturday of
each month at beautiful Fairchild Tropical Botanic
Garden, Corbin Bldg., 10901 Old Cutler Rd., Coral
Gables, FL Judging begins promptly at 1:00 p.m.
June 2011
Page 17
Coalition for Orchid Species’ booth at the Florida Department of Agriculture at Chapman Field.
The Orchidiva
Professional orchid services
specializing in collection maintenance
and collection building
L. anceps ‘Melana’ AM/AOS
 Complete orchid maintenance
Melana Davison
Phone: 760-212-8919 Email: [email protected]
Need to reach over 140 people every
month to move your products?
See Lori Sell for information about
placing an advertisement in the newsletter.
“When two friends understand each other totally, the words are soft and strong like an orchid's perfume”
June 2011
Page 18
Please patronize our loyal advertisers!
Www.csorchids.com
Where Quality is as Traditional as the Orchid Itself
28100 SW 182 Ave. , Homestead, FL 33030
305-245-4570 * [email protected] *www.rforchids.com
[email protected]
Susana and Victor Ortiz
www.MyKeysToFlorida.com
For Sale
Benches from $65.00 and up (4 to 5 step)
For info: call Eddy or Gloria Rodriguez
(786) 683-4616 or (786) 7972054
Oakhillgardens.com
June 2011
Page 19
Remember it is important for
you to make sure you check in in
order to get credit for attending
the meeting. The number of
meetings you attend determine
when you get to pick your
holiday orchid.
June 2011
June Meeting Collage
Many thanks to Jean Wilson for her photographs of show and tell orchids
Page 20
June 2011
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Thank you for Bringing Reminder to the people
bringing refreshments to
refreshments
the June Meeting
to the May Meeting
Wendy Cantfil
Rosa Cuadrado
Margaret A. Peter
Linda Bell
Marty Logan
Bill Capps
Julie Arsmtrong
Betty Eber
Christina Pascual
Carmen and Carlos Segrera
Lorraine Lee
Mirta Heineman
Odalis Navarro
Daisi Vazquez
Judie Armstrong
Zoe Ortiz
Virginia Caffin
Anita Megna
Rosario Valdes
Mirta Heineman
To everyone else, please
remember to bring some
snacks when you can.
Jean Wilson helping out at the Open House at Chapman
Field booth.
June 2011
Page 22
BEGINNER'S SERIES
Orchid Culture — 6 — Watering
Text and photography by STEPHEN R. BATCHELOR
N
eed it be said that water is vital to plant life? Plants are predominantly composed of water. Water is important to
nearly every physiological process ongoing in living plant tissue. Carbon dioxide and water are combined in photosynthesis to make the food necessary for plant survival. Water performs another essential function in plants by acting as a vehicle for the uptake of minerals through the roots, as well as for the distribution of minerals, food and other substances
within the plant itself. An orchid grower need only provide too little water, or too much, to realize how crucial it is to orchids.
UNDERWATERING AND OVERWATERING
Most orchids, particularly the epiphytes, have evolved to withstand dry conditions to some extent. Unlike other more
tender plants, orchids don't usually cry out that they need water by wilting in a dramatic fashion. Instead, a prolonged
period of almost deliberate water neglect is usually necessary to produce drought responses in a well-rooted orchid. These responses are subtle at first. A slight shriveling of the succulent leaves of Cattleya-type orchids (see A.O.S. Bulletin, July 1981, page 794), for example, can be noticed with close observation by sight — and touch. Turgid succulent leaves are
smooth; those under water stress, developing wrinkles and bumpy patches, feel rougher. Thinner but still leathery orchid
leaves may curl under water deprivation. Some orchid leaves may react by dying back at the tips. With persistent
drought, leaves may lighten in color, turn yellow, or even die and turn brown. Pseudobulbs, which normally develop furrows with age, will become deeply grooved under chronically dry conditions. All these symptoms should suggest
to the grower that the orchid so responding is not taking up enough water to compensate for water loss.
Being more needy, actively growing leaves and pseudobulbs are the most vulnerable to stress. Expanding leaves, especially those of the more thin-leaved genera, are likely to develop a case of "accordion pleating" without adequate moisture.
Leaves and pseudobulbs often will be stunted at maturity if deprived during this critical stage. Overwatering is a far
more common error committed in orchid culture. All zealous orchid growers know how hard it is to resist watering, even
when it might very well be unnecessary, or harmful! Ironically enough, watering too much can bring about the same responses in orchids as watering too little. The reason for this lies in the ability of the roots to take up the water needed.
Watering a potted orchid more frequently than necessary results in a perpetually soggy, eventually decomposed potting
medium. A medium high in water content or decomposed is poorly aerated. Without oxygen, roots cannot grow or
properly take up water and nutrients. Under such conditions they will prematurely die. An orchid with imperiled roots
cannot absorb the water it requires. Losing this ability, over-watered orchids frequently desiccate. An overly-wet orchid
is also more subject to disease. Orchid rots (Phytophthora cactorum, Pythium ultimum, Rhizoctonia solani) can easily infect
unhealthy, saturated roots, spread from there into the rhizome, and kill an orchid "from the ground up" before the unwary grower can take any corrective action. Giving an orchid more water than it needs during those critical times of active growth can also,as with under watering, lead to poor development and stunting of new leaves and
pseudobulbs. Since both under watering and overwatering can cause similar responses in orchids, how is the grower to
know on which side he or she is erring? If an orchid is distressed to the point where symptoms such as those just discussed begin to appear, it is time to consider the all-important roots. An idea of what condition the root system is in can
be gotten by jiggling the plant. A well-established orchid with a healthy root system usually won't budge in its pot. If such
an orchid is showing signs of desiccation most likely it is being under watered and only needs more frequent watering to
regain its turgor. On the other hand, a plant with a distressed root system, having few healthy roots to hold it in place,
will shift easily in its pot with a nudge. If the orchid in question does so, it may be necessary to take the plant out of the
pot to examine its root system firsthand. Any disruption which may be caused in the process is well worth the possible
resolution of a potentially serious problem. If an orchid has been overwatered for some time, probably both its potting
medium and its roots will be dark, wet and decomposed. Very few orchid roots can survive such wet and airless conditions, and they will very likely separate from the plant when "depotted". Dead orchid roots are darker than those which
are alive, and will easily pull apart with the slightest tug. (In contrast, live roots generally are lighter in color, and will
hold on tightly to both the plant and bits of potting medium.)
June 2011
What dead roots remain attached to the plant should be removed, and the
orchid repotted in suitable, fresh media. With few if any viable roots, it should then
be moved into low-light, high-humidity conditions to prevent further desiccation
until new roots form. The urge to continue watering excessively must be conquered
now or never, because new roots are unlikely to develop in a wet medium. Keeping
the medium slightly moist with infrequent watering will encourage root development.
Once sufficient roots have initiated and penetrated the medium, more frequent
watering can be carefully resumed.
Growers have been known to put their rootless, newly repotted orchids into
polyethylene bags to achieve the high humidity levels conducive to new root formation.
If this method is followed, care must be taken to keep the bagged plant out of
all direct light. After all, what good is a stewed orchid?
Some orchids may show signs of inadequate water, in spite of good root systems
and frequent watering. In such cases, the potting medium may be unsuitable. It
may dry out too quickly for the plant in its present growing conditions. This was
probably the case with the Trichopilia suavis potted in bark and pictured in this article.
In spite of almost daily watering called for because of rapid drying, accordion
pleating and stunted growths developed (although the flowering was surprisingly
good). Repotting in a mix with greater water retention may help provide the plant
with a longer drying cycle and more even moisture.
How often should an orchid grower have to water to avoid problems caused by
overwatering and underwatering? Were growing conditions and an orchid's needs
unvarying, a recommendation such as "Water once a week without fail for happy
orchids" could be given. This just isn't the case
FACTORS DETERMINING WATER DEMAND
Every sunny day plants lose great quantities of water because of transpiration
through (evaporation from) their leaves. This water of course needs to be replaced,
through the absorption of water by the roots, for the unimpaired functioning of the
plant. Any environmental condition which increases the transpiration rate of an
orchid will correspondingly increase its water needs. These include high light, high
temperatures, low humidity and rapid air movement, as discussed in previous articles
in this series. An orchid's vegetative characteristics also have a say in its water
requirements. Leafy, terrestrial species have more surface area from which water
can transpire and therefore will need more water than, for instance, a terete species
adapted to a dry, epiphytic habitat. Whether a plant is in active growth or dormant
likewise influences its demand for water. Many orchids, especially species and primary
hybrids, have "rest periods" during which watering should be curtailed, in
contrast to periods of rapid growth when watering needs can be at their highest.
What an orchid is growing in or on has a significant effect on watering practices.
Page 23
June 2011
Some media dry out faster than others. Potting media composed of fine-grade materials,
particularly mixes containing peat moss, retain more water and are less subject
to air; thus, they dry out more slowly. Coarse media dry out more quickly, having
less surface area to absorb water, and larger air pockets to bring about more
rapid evaporation. Fresh potting media, particularly those containing bark, tend to
resist water at first and dry faster than later when they have had a chance to decompose
and settle. Orchids on slabs and the like dry out the quickest of all, being constantly
exposed to air on a surface of limited water-holding capacity. In addition,
what the growing medium is in determines drying rates. Media in clay pots generally
dry out more rapidly because the clay is porous and "sweats", drawing water
out of the media to evaporate on the outer surface of the pots. Impervious to water,
plastic pots do not have this tendency. Media in such containers dry out more
slowly as a result. Also, the size of the container is a factor in watering. Larger pots,
containing more media, will retain more water and take longer to dry than smaller
pots which can dry far more quickly. Big pots often have a central core of media
which, being so protected from the air and other drying forces, takes considerable
time to dry. This can be a problem in specimen culture.
WHEN AND HOW TO WATER
Knowing how various conditions in the growing environment affect the water
needs of orchids, a grower will have some idea as to when his plants will need water.
Nevertheless, only in examining the potting medium for water content can it be
determined whether in fact watering is required. After all, because most if not all of
the water is taken up by the roots, the area where they reside is perhaps of the most
concern in watering.
Rarely is it recommended that a potting medium be allowed to become totally
dry for orchids in active growth, whatever the genus. A nearly-dry potting mix will
generally look lighter in color, seem lighter in weight, and feel drier to the touch
than when it has just been watered and is wet. Porous media such as those orchids
require can be deceptive, however. The surface inch may very well be dry while the
more pertinent region further down where most of the roots usually reside can still
be adequately moist. Clay pots are helpful in this regard, as they sweat water as
long as the medium is wet. But with the more common plastic pots, many growers
rely on other indicators to determine water content, such as the weight of the mix.
By habitually lifting pots at all stages of wetness, and keeping an eye on the plants,
one can develop a good sense of how light an orchid should be when it needs water.
I grant it may be a bit unrealistic to suggest to even the beginner with a small
collection of orchids that he or she go around every day lifting every plant in deciding
whether to water. After all, it is far easier to remember that, for example,
"Saturday morning is watering time." We all tend to fall into a routine, even if our
Page 24
June 2011
orchids do not. This is not to say that the majority of orchids in any one collection
might not survive, and even prosper, under such a watering regime. But a number
of plants will inevitably suffer, receiving more or less than their present needs require.
Since most hobbyists' collections are especially heterogeneous, consisting not
only of radically different species and hybrids, but plants in all types of containers
and media, it might be wise for the beginner to fight this tendency and to try to accommodate
as much as possible the diverse needs of all his orchids.
The efficient arrangement of the hobbyist's orchid collection can be of great help
in meeting these disparate watering needs. Naturally, first consideration in arranging
a collection should be given to meeting light preferences; without adequate
light, the rest may be inconsequential. But after this requirement has been attended
to, consideration can be given to arranging the plants according to their water
needs, taking into account the various factors discussed earlier which influence water
demand. Only representative plants then have to be examined daily to decide
watering for an entire group of orchids with similar water needs. In this way, much
time and effort can be saved in watering a well-ordered collection.
When watering is called for, it should be done thoroughly, to the point where the
medium is entirely moistened and water comes out the drainage holes of the pot. In
watering some care should be taken to avoid splashing the leaves, and to water during
periods in which conditions are conducive to drying. Admittedly, not every successful
grower swears by this. Certainly orchids grow in the wild quite contentedly,
becoming dripping wet from "head to toe" with every driving rain and swirling
mist. We would all like to duplicate these natural conditions, but realistically it is
seldom feasible. Conventional growing conditions typically fall short of matching
the optimum conditions in which orchids can be found, especially in terms of humid
air movement around the entire plant, leaves and roots alike. Water on the
leaves and around roots in the potting media, therefore, generally takes longer to
dry in cultivation than in nature. This, combined with the fact that most orchid collections
are (or inevitably become) congested, predisposes the cultivated orchid to
infection. Foliar and root diseases present but usually confined in nature can
spread rampantly in a concentrated collection, especially if water is splashed from
one leaf to another, or high levels of moisture persist in the potting media.
Watering in the morning, on preferably the start of a sunny day, is often suggested
in the literature because it usually just precedes conditions (of higher light
and temperature) which will lead to the most rapid evaporation of whatever water
may accumulate on the leaves. Such a practice also lessens the chance that overlywet
conditions possible in the media immediately after watering will be prolonged.
Likewise, because of similar considerations regarding disease control, it is never
recommended with orchids that water be "recycled", even though it is tempting for
Page 25
June 2011
the indoor grower, who has to drain and collect the water given his plants.
SUMMARY
Watering orchids is very much a process of trial and error. The difference between
a successful grower and one less so lies not in the fact that one makes errors in
judgment while the other does not. All orchid growers, novice or experienced, make
occasional mistakes in watering, especially with new plants whose needs are probably
unfamiliar. But the expert orchid grower is more likely to be a keen observer of
the condition of his plants — above and below the media surface. Suspicious by nature
or by design, he will be the first to sense any adverse reaction to present watering
practices, and the first to take the proper corrective actions.
Water is the means by which orchids obtain the nutritional elements essential for
their survival. Naturally occurring water is an alphabet soup containing a number
of these necessary elements dissolved in solution. To this water solution, in orchid growing
practice, we add water-soluble fertilizers. Fertilizing orchids properly will
be the topic of the next article for this series. — 84 Sherman Street, Cambridge,
Massachusetts 02140.
REFERENCES
American Orchid Society, Inc. Handbook on Orchid Pests and Diseases. Revised
Edition.
Page 26
June 2011
Page 27
Ritter Tropic 1 Orchid Nursery
Please join us for our 50th Anniversary Sale! Welcome Societies! Open House and Sale June
11- June 26, 2011 Open every day! 9AM to 5PM Free lectures on Saturday Mornings! 25%
off all sale plants! Seedlings and bare-roots to overgrown plants! Large selection of species
and hybrids!
We also provide lecture services for Society meetings!!
2494 Neptune Rd, Kissimmee, FL 34744Phone: 407-846-3020 Cell:407-855-8809 Email: [email protected] Mail orders accepted and group tours are welcome!
*Societies, please note that if you are unable to attend during our sale and would like to join
us for a tour, arrangements can be made for later in the year and honor sale prices. Please
contact Linda at 407-846-3020 or e-mail for arrangements!
Silent Auction Table
Stop by for some great deals!
June 2011
Page 28
RF Orchids is having their annual
“Summer Sizzler”
Sale July 8-10 featuring new arrivals from
Asia as well as special pricing on our excellent collection of species, hybrids, and meristems. There will be great bargains on
their garden décor, gifts and more!
June 2011
Page 29
Don‟t forget to visit our web site
http://www.cosspecies.com
and visit Facebook
http://www.facebook.com/group.php?gid=163001178319
Coalition for Orchid Species
The 2011 - 2012 Board:

President, Mirta Russis Heineman




Vice Pres., Carmen Segrera
Treasurer: Melana Davison
Secretary: Lori Sell
Trustees: Carlos Segrera, Erna Maxwell, Katria Whitfield, Cynthia White, Vivian Waddell, Bill Capps, Ketty
Bergouignan









Committees:
Vivian Waddel: Membership
Julie Armstrong: Conservation
Newsletter Editor : Bill Capps
Advertising/Reporter : Lori Sell
Raffle: Carmen Segrera, Pat Chen Yin
Photography: Jean Wilson
AOS Rep: Lynn Corson
Roster: Melana Davison
Webpage Liaison: Melanie Trexler
Mirta Heineman: Events Coordinator
Library: Jorge Casaudoumecq
Cynthia White: Silent Auction
Refreshments: Daisi Vasquez, Odalis & Larry Navarro
Next Month:
“Endangered Epiphytic Orchids of Southern Florida”
By Chuck McCarney

June2011Newsletter - Coalition for Orchid Species

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