Carnevale in Viareggio

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ITALY
Viareggio
Carnevale in
‘Ogni Scherzo Vale’
“Let the good times roll,” are words
that accompany our memories of Mardi
Gras in New Orleans, where we lived
for over 12 years. Now as residents of
Italy, it’s time for us to say to ourselves
“A Carnevale, ogni scherzo vale,” the
Italian Carnival mantra that reminds us
that “anything goes.” We are headed for
Viareggio, a popular beach resort on the
Mediterranean, part of the province of
Lucca.
A lively tourist destination with
beaches that extend over an area of more
than 20 kilometres and inland territory
composed of hills and the Apuan Alps, it
attracts many summertime visitors who
come to enjoy swimming, hiking and
outdoor socialising. The first bathing
establishments were built in the early
1800s. By the early 1900s, the grand
waterfront promenade was created,
flanked by elegant hotels in art nouveau
and liberty styles, many featuring
Belvedere turrets and balconies. Even
after extensive devastation during WWII,
the citizens lost no time in re-building,
eager to continue the seaside hospitality
for which they had become known. The
promenade is the perfect venue for the
passeggiata, where the local residents
Berlusconi
and tourists stroll, stopping at the cafés
for an espresso, or taking a gelato in
hand as they continue on. Seafood
restaurants and elegant boutique shops
line this stretch of seafront.
In the winter season, the promenade
hosts
the
renowned
Carnival
celebrations, attracting visitors by the
thousands. When there is a Carnival
parade to see Viareggio’s population
of 60,000 swells to over 300,000.
Carnevale, as celebrated in this coastal
Tuscan town, is one of the best-known
events in Italy. These vividly colourful
celebrations have been going on for 138
years, beginning in 1873 when a small
group of townspeople were inspired to
create a parade of floats to celebrate the
carnival season in the Viareggio town
square. The early floats were rather
simple, but by the latter part of the
century they had grown to monumental
proportions, constructed by artisans
who put into use all the skills learned in
the shipbuilding industry. Modelled by
sculptors and realised by the carpenters
and ironsmiths who worked at the naval
shipyards, these creations became more
and more elaborate, to the astonishment
and amusement of the populace. The
Burromacco
By Ginda Simpson
themes of these “moving theatres’
used satire to depict the political and
social life of the day, and this tradition
continues today.
By 1921, the parade floats followed a
splendid circuit on the grand promenade
and in 1923 the first animated figure was
introduced. But the year 1925 introduced
a change that would transform the floats
in unimaginable ways – the use of papier
maché. These new lightweight figures
now reached colossal proportions and
dramatic heights, allowing limitless
ideas for the animated stories they would
tell. The celebrations have continued
uninterrupted except for a period during
the Second World War and in 1959 for
one season when all the floats were
destroyed in a fire.
In 2001, the Cittadella di Carnevale
was constructed – a massive
multifunctional complex with huge
hangars to accommodate the floats
during their construction. And just who
is behind the magic of these creations?
For sure, the artists whose imaginations
take flight, transforming ideas into
concrete designs, beginning with rough
sketches on paper of the allegorical
themes and political satires that will
Figures upclose
be turned into immense masterworks,
a year-long undertaking. From initial
concept to finished float, hundreds of
artisans apply their skills – sculptors,
carpenters, papier maché craftsmen,
painters. The hangars at the Cittadella
are not just warehouses, but truly great
ateliers, where the Viareggiano passion
for Carnival is unleashed in a steady
outpouring of skill and creative talent.
What politicians will be the objects of
this year’s satire? What social issue will
be addressed? What historical event will
be portrayed and honoured?
We are soon to find out. It is ‘Fat
Tuesday’ and a gloriously sunny day at
the Citadella where we have come to
visit the Carnival exhibition in the hope
of gaining a deeper appreciation of the
parades we will shortly witness. The
museum showcases models, sketches,
and historical documents about Carnival.
There is also an outdoor arena, quiet
today, but used in the summer months
for concerts and cultural events. Much to
our delight, we arrive just in time to see
this year’s collection of floats being lined
up to leave for the waterfront promenade
where the parade will take place in a few
short hours. We can’t wait to see the live
show.
The Unification of Italy celebrating
its 150th anniversary this year is an
important theme, with Vittorio Emanuele
II and Giuseppe Garibaldi reincarnated
in large-than-life papier maché figures,
accompanied by 200 ‘garibaldini’ in
their red shirts. Modern day problems
of worldwide proportions are also
represented: environmental pollution,
capitalism at the expense of poor
nations, particularly in Africa, scientific
technology that advances without regard
of the ethical issues posed, uncontrolled
globalisation that squeezes out smaller
economies, Obama’s inability to deliver
on his promises, even with magic wand
in hand. There is even a live figure
Float upclose
perched inside Obama’s hat and it is none
other than Bin Laden! Last but not least,
Berlusconi is portrayed as an enormous
fossil about to collapse, bringing down
many victims with him. The subject of
each float is well choreographed with
live performances and masked figures
to amuse the spectators as they proceed
along the parade route.
One of the more colourful ‘theatres’ is
the Indian-themed float with a colossal
azure blue Ganesh, the Hindu deity in
the form of elephant. I would say that
the Italians have chosen well from the
Hindu Pantheon of deities, as Ganesh is
considered the Remover of Obstacles,
the Patron of Arts and Sciences, and the
god of Intellect and Wisdom. Yes, in
light of the global themes portrayed for
the year 2011, I believe Ganesh makes
a good choice. He covers all the bases.
From great heights, suspended erotic
figures dance above the crowds, while on
the street preceding the float live dancers
in brilliant costumes entertain us.
There is much merry-making among
the costumed crowds, making it difficult
at times to distinguish between performer
and spectator. Certainly the young
children are having fun, delighting
all of us in a special way – ladybugs
perched on shoulders, bumble bees in
strollers, pirates and princesses chasing
one another, angels and demons darting
to and from, but never far from their
watchful parents. Anything goes and
what they seem to like best is showering
their family and friends with handfuls of
paper confetti. Anything goes. Pirates
are daring and princesses are flirtatious.
Demons are devilish, but this doesn’t
mean that the cherubs must behave like
angels!
We have walked and watched the
merriment for several hours now and
are ready for a rest in our room at the
Grand Hotel Royal, the first of many fine
art nouveau hotels to be constructed in
the city, its turreted structure becoming
a Viareggio landmark. Its imposing
architecture dominates the Lungomare
Carducci, overlooking the grand
Grand Hotel Royal
Grand Hotel Royal entrance
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Indian dancers
Little boy
Little girl
boulevard, so it is easy to locate above
the heights of the parade floats. Its
spacious and elegant entrance, rather
than intimidate, feels welcoming,
inviting us to enjoy a glass of wine in
one of the more intimate and graceful
sitting rooms before going up to enjoy
the comforts of our room. Remodeling
has introduced all the desired amenities
of this new century without sacrificing
the classic atmosphere of a by-gone era.
Our balconied bedroom, with sea view,
is a treat for all the senses. But to have
this vantage point during the Carnevale
season is the ultimate way to experience
the parades. From above we now have
a bird’s eye view of the floats and the
merry-makers, yet at any given moment,
we can descend to street level and come
face to face with the spirited festivities.
But for now, we shake the confetti from
our hair and put our feet up, even if sleep
eludes us enveloped as we still hear the
lively Carnival music from the street
below.
We don’t have to travel far to dine.
The hotel restaurant is spacious and
elegant, boasting a domed ceiling and
arched doorways, divided into beveled
mirrored panels adding an extra sparkle
to the butter-yellow interior. Chef Alan
Lucchesi presents hotel guests with a
varied menu of Tuscan and seafood
specialties, prepared in such a pleasing,
satisfying way that to dine anywhere
else would almost be foolish. Refueled,
if not completely reenergized, we decide
to watch the evening parade from
our balcony and what a spectacular
performance it is! We gain a real
appreciation for just how high these
floats are, as we gaze at some of the
figures eye to eye from our fourth floor
room. We are beginning to run out of
steam, but not the citizens of Viareggio.
There are still fireworks to come! Oh, let
the good times roll…
WHERE TO STAY:
Grand Hotel Royal
Lungomare Carducci, 44
55049 Viareggio
Tel: 39-0584-45151
www.royalviareggio.it
FOR CARNIVAL INFORMATION:
http://www.viareggio.ilcarnevale.
com/
© Ginda Simpson
Obama - night parade