water garden features - MacArthur Water Gardens

INTRODUCTION .............................................................................................................. 4
MOTIVES....................................................................................................................... 5
SITE SELECTION ............................................................................................................. 6
GENERAL SITE SELECTION REQUIREMENTS ................................................... 7
PLANT SELECTION AND SUNLIGHT...................................................................... 7
SOIL AND DRAINAGE ................................................................................................ 7
WATER AND ELECTRICITY ACCESSABILITY...................................................... 8
APPROPRIATE VIEWING.......................................................................................... 8
SURROUNDING LANDSCAPE ................................................................................. 8
BLOCK WALLS OR BARRIERS ................................................................................ 8
WIND.............................................................................................................................. 9
STYLES AND SHAPES .................................................................................................... 9
FORMAL STYLES........................................................................................................ 9
INFORMAL STYLES.................................................................................................... 9
POND SHAPES.......................................................................................................... 10
WATER GARDEN FEATURES ..................................................................................... 10
WHAT IS A WATER FEATURE? ............................................................................. 11
ADDING ORNAMENTS............................................................................................. 12
CONTAINER GARDENS................................................................................................ 13
LINERS............................................................................................................................. 15
FLEXIBLE LINERS..................................................................................................... 15
PREFORMED LINERS.............................................................................................. 15
DETERMINING LINER SIZE .................................................................................... 16
CONCRETE ..................................................................................................................... 16
PUMPS ............................................................................................................................. 17
DETERMINING DESIRED FLOW ........................................................................... 17
CALCULATING HEAD PRESSURE........................................................................ 17
FRICTION LOSS CHART ......................................................................................... 18
SUBMERSIBLE VS. EXTERNAL.............................................................................. 19
OPERATION EXPENSE ........................................................................................... 19
FILTERS........................................................................................................................... 20
SKIMMERS...................................................................................................................... 22
HOW THEY WORK.................................................................................................... 22
PLUMBING...................................................................................................................... 22
BOTTOM DRAINS ..................................................................................................... 22
BULKHEAD FITTINGS.............................................................................................. 23
COUPLINGS ............................................................................................................... 23
BUSHINGS.................................................................................................................. 23
HOSECLAMPS........................................................................................................... 24
SCREENS ................................................................................................................... 24
MALE ADAPTER........................................................................................................ 24
MALE INSERT ............................................................................................................ 24
FLEXIBLE PVC PIPE................................................................................................. 25
BALL VALVES ............................................................................................................ 25
CHECK VALVES ........................................................................................................ 25
GATE VALVES ........................................................................................................... 25
EDGING ........................................................................................................................... 25
LIGHTING ....................................................................................................................... 26
TYPES OF LIGHTS.................................................................................................... 27
UV CLARIFIERS............................................................................................................. 28
HOW IT WORKS ........................................................................................................ 29
ELECTRICITY................................................................................................................. 29
DIGGING THE HOLE ..................................................................................................... 30
WHAT TO DO ............................................................................................................. 30
INSTALLING A FLEXIBLE LINER .............................................................................. 31
STEPS ......................................................................................................................... 31
INSTALLING PREFORMED LINERS........................................................................... 36
STEPS ......................................................................................................................... 37
BUILDING CONCRETE PONDS ................................................................................... 38
STEPS ......................................................................................................................... 39
SAFE FOR AQUATIC LIFE....................................................................................... 41
BUILDING ABOVE GROUND PONDS ........................................................................ 41
STEPS ......................................................................................................................... 42
MAKING A BOG............................................................................................................. 43
THINGS TO CONSIDER ........................................................................................... 43
STEPS ......................................................................................................................... 43
MAINTENANCE ......................................................................................................... 44
BUILDING WATERFALLS............................................................................................ 44
STEPS ......................................................................................................................... 45
OTHER CONSIDERATIONS.................................................................................... 46
WATERFALL EXAMPLES ........................................................................................ 47
CREATING FOUNTAINS............................................................................................... 48
STEPS ......................................................................................................................... 49
FOUNTAIN STATUARY............................................................................................ 50
FOUNTAIN EXAMPLES............................................................................................ 51
PUMP/PLUMBING TIPS ................................................................................................ 52
STEPS ......................................................................................................................... 53
INSTALLING LIGHTS.................................................................................................... 56
TIPS FOR SUCCESS ................................................................................................ 57
ADDING EDGING .......................................................................................................... 58
OTHER EDGING METHODS ................................................................................... 59
GENERAL MAINTENANCE.......................................................................................... 59
SEASONAL MAINTENANCE ....................................................................................... 63
SPRING ....................................................................................................................... 63
SUMMER..................................................................................................................... 65
AUTUMN/WINTER..................................................................................................... 65
FISH ............................................................................................................................. 65
PLANTS ....................................................................................................................... 66
PUMPS AND FILTERS.............................................................................................. 67
AUTUMN/WINTER CHECK LIST ............................................................................ 68
POND PLANTS................................................................................................................ 69
WHAT ARE THEY?.................................................................................................... 69
TYPES ......................................................................................................................... 71
POND FISH ...................................................................................................................... 80
KOI VARIETIES.......................................................................................................... 81
KOI HEALTH ............................................................................................................... 81
FEEDING..................................................................................................................... 83
BREEDING.................................................................................................................. 84
GOLDFISH VARIETIES ............................................................................................ 85
GOLDFISH HEALTH ................................................................................................. 86
FEEDING..................................................................................................................... 87
WATER GARDEN MODELS ......................................................................................... 90
INTRODUCTION
Water in the garden. It brings us refreshing coolness on the hottest summer day.
It satisfies our senses with sounds that only water can make. It delights our eyes
with the unsurpassed beauty of colorful water lilies, the glimmering iridescence of
fish and reflections from the sky.
Water has immense attraction to all people. For centuries Europeans have
enjoyed the beauty of fountains and water gardens in their public squares and
private estates. Water gardens create "natural" focal points, whether located in
the home garden, shopping mall, or office building.
This book is written to fill a void in today's selection of gardening books. A few
books are sprinkled here and there, covering specific areas of water gardening
such as plants and Koi, but this book is written to cover all facets of decorative
water gardening for homeowners as well as professional landscapers and
architects.
The word "pond" conjures up different images for different people. Some envision
a farm pond with a dirt bottom, fed by a creek bed and alive with ducks and frogs.
Others see a mossy-covered goldfish pool in the corner of a yard. For our
purposes, the word "pond" will be used in the Webster's Dictionary sense:
"artificially enclosed body of water; a body of standing water smaller than a lake,
often artificially formed." In this book you'll also find some of the newer terms aquasphere, aquatic habitat, aquatic environment, or waterscape.
The reasons for considering a water garden are varied. Commercial landscape
architects use water in their designs for effect and uniqueness. Homeowners
want to exchange their rakes, lawn mowers and weedeaters for a work free
garden. Others desire a pond "just like grandpa always had," yet most of us are
simply looking for a garden to enjoy, a haven for relaxation.
Water does have a relaxing affect, whether it be the rhythmic waves of the
ocean, a gently running brook, or the quiet beauty of a pond. While we may be
unable to recreate nature with oceans and brooks, we can find pleasure in
designing and building ponds.
MOTIVES
Before deciding on a water garden, consider your motives. Ask yourself the
following questions:
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Why do I want a pond?
Am I trying to save work for myself?
Do I want a part of nature in my own backyard?
Am I looking for a fishpond? Or a plant pond? A fountain or waterfall?
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Do I want to cool off in the pond?
Do I want to convert a swimming pool?
Am I looking for a focal point in the yard or simply a subtle blend of plants and
fish?
Many people think water gardening means digging a hole, filling it in with water,
plants and fish, and that's all there is to it. While it's true that established ponds
require minimal work, prospective water gardeners should realize that a certain
amount of responsibility goes with a pond garden.
When you build a pond, you're putting in a natural habitat, something that is
"alive" and "breathing" with plants and animals. Plants live and grow in this
natural habitat; natural gas exchanges are going on; birds, bugs, fish, frogs and
animals come to visit and drink from you pond. In other words, you're doing more
than just cementing an area in the yard and filling it with water. You are bringing
nature into your surroundings.
EXPECTATIONS
Prospective water gardeners should also examine their expectations. What do
you want from your pond?
Before starting construction, you should decide if you want a fishpond, a fish and
plant pond, a fountain, or a waterfall. For example, a Koi pond without plants will
be constructed differently than ponds containing both fish and plants.
Do you want you pond to be a focal point - something that stands out
dramatically with waterfalls or spraying fountains? Or is your life hectic and
frenzied, so you're looking for a quiet haven for meditation and relaxation?
If you expect a low maintenance, relaxing environment, you'll find it in water
gardening. You may wonder how water gardening can be effortless. The answer
is nature. Properly planned water gardens achieve an ecological balance of
water, plants, fish, and snails.
Water ponds answer a multitude of expectations, but the final decision on what
you want from your water garden must come from you.
SITE SELECTION
Once you've examined your motives and expectations, your next step is to
consider location. Selecting a pond site involves more than deciding where it will
look best. Several factors should be taken into consideration: sunlight, drainage,
eaves, trees, plants, block walls, wind, and accessibility.
GENERAL SITE SELECTION REQUIREMENTS
When deciding on the best location for your water garden, consider these
factors:
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Plant selection and sunlight
Soil and drainage
Water and electricity accessibility
Appropriate viewing
Surrounding landscape
Block walls or barriers
Wind
PLANT SELECTION AND SUNLIGHT
Generally speaking, a garden pond with plants and fish requires six hours of
sunlight. Measure off your prospective pond site with string, rope of chalk and
note the amount of sun this area receives throughout the day. The more sun
your water plants receive, the better and healthier they'll bloom.
Other alternatives are available for your shady areas. For example, you might
consider a waterfall without fish and plants.
If you want any flowering aquatic plants such as water lilies in your pond, these
dictate the site be in full sun for optimum flowering. Some exceptions are such
water lily cultivars as “Comanche” and “Graziella”, which flower with as little as
three hours of direct sunlight. For the best growth and establishment of all of
your water garden plants, a minimum of five to six hours of direct sunlight each
day is recommended.
If none of these conditions can be met, then consider a quiet, cool bog garden.
Far from a dark, dank, mosquito infested swamp; a properly designed and
maintained bog garden can be a cool green retreat in a shady summer garden.
SOIL AND DRAINAGE
Good drainage is one of the keys to success in maintaining a water garden. A
low spot in the yard that naturally fills with water is not necessarily the best
location for your pond. These drainage areas also bring insecticides, herbicides
or roof chemicals, all of which may be harmful to plants and fish. However, by
cultivating the soil and using drainpipes and plants, low areas may still be used
as pond sites.
For the best results and ease of construction, a site with a well-drained surface
and subsoil is best. A sandy loam textured soil will prevent soil saturation from
floating the pond liner. If the area has good surface drainage there will be fewer
problems with runoff of chemical pesticides and fertilizers into the pond from the
surrounding land. The more level the site the less work in constructing the pond.
WATER AND ELECTRICITY ACCESSABILITY
Ponds should be free and accessible from all sides. Water may need changing,
or plants pruned, so accessibility is an important factor. If the pond is to contain
tropical water lilies or other nonhardy plants, it is helpful to locate it close to the
selected storage facility or close to a level hard path leading there. The site
should have access to water sources for filling and "topping off" the pond and
close electrical outlets if there is to be any lighting or filtration systems included
in the design.
APPROPRIATE VIEWING
When deciding where to place the pond, consider the place from which you will
most often view it. If this is a deck or patio, be sure that this view is not
obstructed by hedges or other tall landscape features. Remember that the pond
is in the ground and even tall grass or ground covers can completely obscure the
view.
SURROUNDING LANDSCAPE
Consider how the pond will fit into your existing landscape. Ponds should be
located away from the eaves of the house, overhanging trees, and dirty plants
such as bamboo or pyracantha. Toxic chemicals dripping from your roof or trees
are harmful to plants and fish, and dirty plants generate a dirty pond.
Are there any tree roots nearby from shallow rooted plants such as elms (Ulmus
spp.) and willows (Salix spp.), or trees that do not tolerate root disturbances like
post oaks (Quercus stellata)? Will there be any trees close enough that leaves,
fruit or twigs will present a maintenance problem? Are any of the trees walnuts
(Juglans spp.)? These trees have a chemical in their roots that inhibits the
growth of neighboring plants. Will the reflection of existing plant materials in the
pond add to or diminish its overall appearance? Will the surrounding plants
eventually grow large enough to shade the pond? Will construction of the pond
necessitate construction of a fence? Will the pond cause problems in the overall
pattern of surface and/or subsurface drainage?
BLOCK WALLS OR BARRIERS
Healthy ponds require good air circulation, so they should not be built against
block walls, wall barriers or houses. Without good circulation, the air becomes
stymied, causing the water to get too hot and creating improper gas exchanges.
Also, if the pond is sited too close for its size to a wall or other obstructions, this
could cause a problem reaching the pond’s entire surface for cleaning and
removal of dead leaves.
WIND
While circulating air is a necessity, high wind locations will bring dirt, leaves,
paper, and other debris into your pond. Wind problems can be solved with
design, skimmers, pumps, and plants, but the condition should be noted before
constructing your pond.
STYLES AND SHAPES
Water gardens can take on whatever shapes you want and what your site will
allow. In terms of style, they break down into two basic categories—formal and
informal.
FORMAL STYLES
Clean, simple, straight lines and symmetrical mirrorimage arrangements characterize formal styles. Formal
water gardens have straight edges and geometric
shapes. Brickwork makes a functional yet highly
decorative border for a formal pond, as do square
precast pavers, tile, and even sod.
Formal designs work well with manicured beds of
roses and neat, evenly planted perennial borders
accented with clipped boxwood hedges. If your
landscape design is formal and you’re considering a
reflecting pool—a water feature with the principal
function of reflecting trees, the sky, or plantings at
the edge of the flower border—square or rectangular
shapes are just what you’re looking for. For
lushness, add a large display of water lilies with a
towering papyrus.
INFORMAL STYLES
Curving, fluid lines and asymmetrical arrangements
define informal design. The American cottage garden or
the mixed perennial border dotted here and there with
bright colors provides the perfect setting for an informal
pond. An informal water garden flows seamlessly, without
defined edges, into the surrounding landscape.
In contrast to formal designs in which plants are used
as ornaments, informal styles feature plants as the
heart of the design. Foliage of similar texture and form
in both the pond and perennial borders casually links
the pond with the rest of the landscape. Water garden
edging complements—rather than defines—informal
style. Use large, irregular fieldstone, river rock,
boulders, logs, or pebbles to help make a pond look as if it has always been part
of the landscape.
POND SHAPES
Rectangles and squares are typical formal shapes. Because of their simple lines,
they work well when you need to define a space, whether it’s the entire garden or
part of it.
Oval and circular ponds are difficult to categorize. They may be either formal or
informal, depending on their size and edging and the geometry of their plantings.
They more a rectangle approaches—but does not become—a circle, the more it
will tend to look informal. Soft-planted edges accentuate the effect. A long narrow
oval pond looks formal because as its length becomes more than three times its
width, it begins to take on the character of a rectangle. It is best to complement it
with the hard formal edges of cut stone or other formal materials.
Free forms, such as crescents and kidney and pie shapes, are informal because
of their asymmetrical edges.
The final shape of your pond is determined by the relationship of its size to its
edging. The proportions of plants and edging predominate in a small pond, so
these elements influence shape more than the original shape of the hole. You
can actually make the right-angled formality of a small rectangular pond
disappear by using informal plantings. Larger ponds are harder to blend in. as
the size of the excavation increases—to a quarter acre or more, for example—
the shape becomes predominant.
WATER GARDEN FEATURES
Beginner water gardeners are often overwhelmed with the choices in detail and
water features that are made available to them through the multitude of supplies.
One method that many beginner water gardeners should use when designing a
water garden is to always start small. Starting small with a water feature will give
you the ability to change and add to your water garden as your tastes and
possibly even your needs change.
Starting with smaller water features in your water garden also allows you to stay
within a manageable budget for the first few years until you can decide what
permanent features you would like to incorporate into your water garden.
WHAT IS A WATER FEATURE?
A water feature is simply a small
water fountain, an addition or detail
to your water garden that adds some
type of movement to the water. No
matter how large your water garden
really is you can add small features
to different 'sides' of your water
garden or you can add to the
features of your garden to where all
the smaller details form to make
larger looking designs. The larger
looking designs could be a series of
smaller water fountains that fall onto
each other and then into the water
garden.
The great thing about using smaller
water fountains and water features in
your water garden is that you can
also pick these items up and take them in the house easily over the winter
months if needed. Small type water fountains and water features are also easy to
clean and maintain each season plus they are more affordable.
On of the other nice things about using smaller water features in your water
garden is that you will find them very easy to find through many home retailers so
you can choose and see up close what it is you want to purchase as well as how
these items look in action.
You can create a dazzling display with a small detailed water fountain added to a
dreary corner of the water garden where you are having a problem getting a plant
to grow in order to take full advantage of the possibilities of your garden.
If you would like to use a small water feature or water fountain in your garden
and then you choose to move to a larger type permanent fixture you will find that
many of the smaller type water fountains can be used in your gardens around
your home or possibly on a large stand in your home with out much difficulty at
all.
ADDING ORNAMENTS
Every garden, even the simplest, needs a few accessories to complete the
design. After the plants are in place, relax by your water feature and imagine
what ornaments might best accent the style of your garden.
Sometimes basic uncomplicated forms are best when it
comes to choosing decorative elements for a water
garden. Sculptures that imitate wildlife, such as frogs,
turtles, or water birds, suit an informal or natural setting.
Plaques made of painted metal, tile or wood can highlight
specific plants or feature a favorite wild creature.
Not all ornaments must be purchased new. Recycled
materials can become treasures in a waterscape. Flat
pavers can be reused as stepping-stones in shallow pools. Old pottery bowls and
dishes can hold trailing marginals and add bright spots of color to a pond’s edge.
Leftover chicken wire and cable sheathing can be turned into a one-of-a-kind art
object, such as a heron to stand guard in the pond.
If your water garden is large, a simple footbridge
across some portion of it serves as a link while
providing new vantage points to appreciate the view
below.
If most of your pondside hours are after work,
consider adding nighttime lighting to your design, in
the water as well as on the landscape. Illuminating a
water feature adds safety as well as sparkling
beauty to the scene.
Water gardens lend themselves well to fantasy, too.
Fairies and garden sprites are never out of style and
blend gracefully with the ephemeral feel of the
water.
Depending on the pose, place one on a rocky ledge
above a stream or waterfall, prop it up on
submerged bricks among some water lilies, or tuck
it among plants near the edge of the pond for a
surprise that will make guests smile. If you have children at home, lighten your
idea of what is appropriate decoration, and invite them to be in on the decisionmaking. Unexpected or amusing decorations can help to reflect enjoyment in
your hobby.
Whatever the size and style of your design, be sure to include a chair or bench
nearby from which to admire your handiwork.
CONTAINER GARDENS
Although many people are putting in full-scale pond
features, you don't need to do that to enjoy water garden
plants.
Container water gardens, also referred to as tub gardens,
are as much alternatives as container flowers are to a fullsize flowerbed. The only difference is that you use pond
plants in a water growing media as opposed to land plants
in potting soil. A tub garden is easy to build and is a great
addition for a deck or sun porch. Just about any container
that holds water can be made into a tub garden. A small container of only a
gallon or two may be suitable for one plant. If you use a 20gallon or larger container you can even add a few goldfish.
Allow about ten gallons of water per goldfish.
Even a bowl can hold a small water plant. A nice size
container is 12-to-24 inches wide by 12-to-16 inches deep.
While you can seal ceramic containers or use liners in wooden
barrels, plastic containers may be easiest to use. Just as with
container flowers, group various-sized water garden
containers to make a big splash. Depending on the size of the
container, select a spiky, erect plant, such as sweet flag,
Acorus calamus, or yellow flag iris, Iris pseudacorus. Combine
with a broad-leaf plant, such as Giant arrowhead, Sagittaria
latifolia, or calla lily, Zantedeschia aethiopica. Add a cascading plant, such as
water mint, Mentha aquatica, or parrot feather, Myriophyllumaquaticum.
You will pot your plants in containers filled with heavy,
packed clay and submerge them underwater. Use bricks or
an old, terracotta pot to prop them off the bottom so the
foliage is above the waterline. Finish off the planting with
some floating plants, such as water lettuce, Pistia
stratiotes, or water hyacinth, Eichhornia crassipes. Don't
crowd too many plants into a container. Two to three
potted plants and some floaters will make quite an impact.
Locate the container where it will receive 6 hours of sun
and top it off every few days as water evaporates. When plants begin to grow,
add a fertilizer tablet available at the garden center where you purchased your
plants. If algae develop, remove the water plants, empty the container, refill with
clean water and replace the plants. Mosquitoes have not been a problem in
container water gardens as the living plants keep the water from becoming
stagnant. If they do develop, remove them by overfilling your container and
letting the mosquito larvae run out with the water flowing over the top.
Container water gardens are really quite simple and worth a try.
Begin by selecting a container that you like. A container only a few inches deep
will work for some plants. If you want fish or water lilies in your tub garden, look
for a container at least twelve inches deep.
Be sure to place the container where you will see it often. Water is heavy and
you most likely will not be moving the tub garden around once the water is
added.
Select an area with at least four or five hours of
direct sun if you want to grow a water lily or other
flowering plant. However, some protection from
the late afternoon sun will be desirable for your
container garden.
You can grow floating aquatic plants in a shallow
container of water. In a deeper container pot your
plants just as if you were placing them in a full sized pond. Shallow water plants
can be elevated on bricks or other suitable support. Water lilies and other deepwater aquatics should be in a pot on the bottom of the container. When selecting
plants for your tub garden consider the size. There are small and large water
lilies. The water lilies on our web site are rated by the size of the leaf spread. A
small spread should be chosen for most tub gardens.
Be sure to add two or three bunches of Anachris for every ten or fifteen gallons of
water to keep the water clear.
LINERS
There are two basic types of liners for water gardens: flexible liners and
preformed liners.
FLEXIBLE LINERS
Possibly the most important innovation in water garden
technology is the flexible liner. Designed to replace concrete
and other building materials, it allows you to create pools,
streams and waterfalls in just about any shape, length and style
you can imagine.
The flexible liner will help you build water gardens in places not
possible before. They are made from a variety of materials—
polyethylene, polyvinyl
chloride (PVC), and ethylene
propylene diene monomer (EPDM)—and they
vary greatly in thickness, cost and quality.
Heavier liners will generally be more
expensive, more durable and more punctureand tear-resistant than lighter weight liners.
A word of warning: Do not let your dogs swim in water where flexible pond liners
are used, as their claws easily damage them. If you do have dogs, go for
preformed garden ponds.
PREFORMED LINERS
Today's preformed pond liners are quick and
easy to install. Long life and low cost preformed
pond liners are best for smaller garden ponds.
Garden pond liners in rubber or plastic materials
are best for medium sized garden ponds.
For ponds less than 120 gallons, preformed liners
are recommended. For larger ponds (over 120 gallons), flexible liners should be
installed—performed liner ponds become rather expensive.
DETERMINING LINER SIZE
Measure the length, width, and depth of your pond. If you have an irregular
shape, say like a "figure 8" shape, you must include the widest part of the "8" as
your width and the longest length for your measurements. The depth
measurement should be the deepest part of your pond. Next, put your
measurements into the following formula to calculate the pond liner size you
need:
Length + twice the depth + 2 extra feet = length of pond liner needed
Width + twice the depth + 2 extra feet = width of pond liner needed
For example, if your pond measurements are 25' x 30' and the pond depth is 4',
here is how the formula works:
30' + 8' (twice the depth) + 2 feet = 40’ long
25' + 8' (twice the depth) + 2 feet = 35’ wide
Therefore, you would need a pond liner that is at least 40' x 35'.
CONCRETE
If properly constructed, concrete water gardens
can last for decades. However, concrete
construction is much more difficult and costly
than the liner alternatives discussed before.
Building a concrete water garden may require
hiring professionals who have the necessary
expertise and tools. Ideally, concrete should be
embedded with heavy-duty steel wire mesh or
reinforcing rods (rebar) for stability and durability.
If improperly installed, a concrete water
garden will crack, leak, and cause infinite
frustration. Avoid using concrete to line a
stream. Not only is it expensive, but it also
looks unnatural. What you can do though is
combine the beauty and durability of concrete
with a flexible or preformed liner. The liner
eliminates the need to neutralize the concrete
before adding plants or fish, and if the
concrete cracks, it won’t leak.
PUMPS
DETERMINING DESIRED FLOW
There are several things to consider in order making a good decision for a pump
purchase. The first thing is to determine your required flow rate. You will want
your minimum flow rate to be at least half of your pond volume. For example if
you have a pond that contains 2,000 gallons of water then you will want to pump
at least 1,000 gallons per hour (gph). This is a starting point. You may find that
1,000 gph is not enough if you plan to have a waterfall that is more than 10
inches wide.
Generally for a waterfall you will want 100 - 150 gph per inch of width of the weir
(the portion that the water spills over). This amount will vary depending on how
smooth or rough the weir is. If you want less than a full flow then less flow is
acceptable. You will also need to consider your filter and ultraviolet sterilizer (UV)
to make sure that you are moving the right amount of water for these devices.
If your filter or UV has a maximum flow that is less than your required flow rate
for good circulation of your pond water, then you will need to divert some of the
water around these devices and back into the pond. This is accomplished by
adding a tee fitting in the pipe coming from the pump and before your filter and/or
UV. A ball valve is added between the tee and the filter. Another ball valve is
installed on the other leg of the tee. Add more pipes to this leg of the tee and
extend the pipe to the waterfall or to the pond. Adjust the ball valves to get the
appropriate amount of water flowing to your filter.
CALCULATING HEAD PRESSURE
The next thing that you want to consider is the amount of head that your system
will have so that the correct pump size can be determined. The three main
sources of head are:
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STATIC HEAD- this is the vertical distance you raise the water above the
pond surface;
FRICTION HEAD- this is the resistance from pipe and fittings as the water
flows through;
PRESSURE HEAD- the additional pressure required by some filters,
venturis, and other devices.
Most pond applications can ignore PRESSURE HEAD. First, determine the
vertical distance in feet above the water surface, this is the STATIC HEAD. Next,
use the Friction Loss Chart below to determine your FRICTION HEAD. Add this
to your PRESSURE HEAD and you can use this figure to size the pump.
FRICTION LOSS CHART
Total the number of fittings and use the chart below to determine the friction loss
in the fittings. Add this amount to the pipe total. This section does not apply if you
are using flexible PVC.
It is recommended that you use flexible PVC pipe that eliminates elbows and
provides higher flow rates by reducing friction loss. Even though cost may be
higher than rigid PVC pipe, it is much easier to install.
There is no problem in using pipe larger than required but smaller will cut your
flow rate.
SUBMERSIBLE vs. EXTERNAL
Before you choose your pump however, there are other things to consider.
Should you use a submersible or an external pump?
Submersible pumps may be a better choice for flow rates around
1,000 gph or less. Submersible pumps are usually less
expensive and easier to install. However, they cost more to
operate and usually don't last as long as external pumps. There
are a lot of variables in determining the longevity of a
submersible pump. How dirty the water, how often the pump is cleaned, and if it
is operated continuous or intermittently will all influence the lifespan of a pump.
The Calvert stainless and bronze pumps should last four to six years, the plastic
PU pumps should last two or three years. These figures are provided as a guide
only. Your pump could last less or longer than this.
For flow rates between 1,000 and 3,000 gph you may
want to consider an external pump but you can still
decide to go with a submersible.
For flow rates 3,000 gph and higher an external pump is
usually the best choice. The operating cost can be the
deciding factor for these larger flow rates.
OPERATION EXPENSE
You can determine the operating cost of any pump by using this formula:
amps x volts divided by 1000 x KWH cost x 24 hours a day x 30.4 days-permonth = cost per month.
If the pump is rated in watts instead of amps use this formula: watts divided by
1000 x kWh x 24 hours a day x 30.4 days-per-month.
KWH is the kilowatt-hour cost, which you can get from an electric bill or by calling
your local electric company.
FILTERS
All ponds should have biological filtration to provide good water quality for
healthy fish and good appearance. Generally better pond filters mean higher
cost, less maintenance, and better water quality. Ultraviolet Sterilizers are
recommended for most ponds to insure the clearest water.
We have selected pond filters and pond filter
combinations based on pond size to simplify the
selection for you. These are guidelines based on
average ponds. Ponds with heavy fish loads or
ponds with few plants will require larger pond filters.
You cannot have too large a filter for your pond. If in
doubt purchase a larger size pond filter.
Shown below are suggested pond filtration systems
for several pond sizes. There are two or three
suggestions for each pond size. These options
range, as the labels indicate, from the suggested
minimum to the best systems for each pond size.
The pond filters systems listed in the economy and standard columns are gravity
type filters (except for the 150 and 600 gallon ponds) and need at least part of
the filter system to be behind a waterfall or at least higher than the pond. If you
need a pond filter system to be installed lower than the pond or one that can be
positioned several feet away from the pond then the Ultima II filters by Aqua
Ultraviolet will be your best choice. These pond filters are pressurized and can be
cleaned with the turn of a valve. Choose one of the premium systems for this
type application.
SKIMMERS
A skimmer prevents problems associated with leaves
and other debris that fall into your water feature and
present a hazard to your fish. As leaves decay and sink,
they consume oxygen and produce toxic gases that
escape harmlessly into the atmosphere. This isn’t a
problem until winter comes, when ice forms on the pond,
trapping the gases and killing the fish.
A skimmer removes floating matter before it decays and
sinks. It helps maintain water quality by increasing the
oxygen level as the skimmed water splashes back into
the pond.
HOW THEY WORK
The skimmer functions as a mechanical filter that sits at the edge of a water
feature. A lid on the skimmer top allows access for weekly cleaning. The top of
the skimmer typically sits about 1-½ inches above the surface of the pond; if the
water level in your feature drops too low the skimmer runs but does not filter,
sucking in air instead of water.
Netting within the skimmer traps debris. A pump inside the device works
constantly to draw the water into it. Water from the skimmer is then pumped to a
filter, waterfall or other location and re-circulates back into the pond.
PLUMBING
Bottom drains and bulkhead connectors are specialized pipe fittings that allow a
watertight passageway for water or power lines to go through a pond liner below
the water surface.
A bottom drain allows you to let the water flow out the bottom of your water
feature by disconnecting the pump and turning a valve. A bulkhead connection is
a specialized fitting on the side of a water feature into which you screw a pipe or
pipe fitting. Guard against leaks by following manufacturer’s directions carefully
when installing a bottom drain or a bulkhead connection.
BOTTOM DRAINS
Ponds that are stocked heavily with fish, especially koi, often include one or more
bottom drains. A bottom drain made for koi ponds works just as successfully in
water gardens, particularly if stocked heavily with fish. Koi keepers regularly
replace 10 percent or more of their pond water. Drains make this easier to do.
Installing a 4-inch-diameter drainpipe greatly reduces the likelihood of clogging.
Bottom drains include a removable cover that minimizes suction created as the
water drains.
While skimmers work quite well at keeping the surface
clear of debris, not all debris will make it to the
skimmer. That which does not will eventually sink to the
bottom and begin its decay process. The accumulation
of decaying material on the bottom and a stagnant
water system here will promote algae growth and will
not be a suitable environment for fish. To overcome this problem a bottom drain
will move the stagnant bottom water through the filtration system, cleansing all
parts of the pond, or ensure the water the pump is drawing from comes from the
bottom of the pond. If the pond is greater than 18 inches deep, it should have a
bottom drain.
BULKHEAD FITTINGS
A bulkhead fitting is a special plastic fitting to provide
a watertight seal through a plastic container or a
flexible pond liner. This fitting allows full flow of water
and the ability to attach flexible pipe with the use of a
male adapter. The fittings have left handed threads to
keep the fitting tight when installing the male adapter.
COUPLINGS
Couplings are used to attach one piece of pipe to another.
These may be the same or different sizes. Rubber
couplings are also used when installing a pump, UV or
other device that you may need to quickly disconnect.
BUSHINGS
A Bushing is a part that is glued* or threaded (Female Pipe
Threads) into a fitting such as a coupling or elbow to adapt to
a different pipe size.
* When working with PVC and ABS pipe always use the all purpose glue.
HOSECLAMPS
Hose Clamps are used to keep tubing attached firmly to the
barbed side of a male insert.
SCREENS
Signal Pond Products Intake Screen—This screen with 3"
elbow is made of ABS plastic and attaches to 3" PVC or
ABS plastic pipe. It will prevent leaves and other large
debris from entering filter.
Signal Pond Products Intake Screen 2” Straight—This
screen is made of ABS plastic and attaches to 2"
PVC or ABS plastic pipe. It will prevent leaves and
other large debris from entering filter or pump.
Signal Pond Products Intake Screen 3” Straight--This
screen with is made of ABS plastic and attaches to 3"
PVC or ABS plastic pipe. It will prevent leaves and
other large debris from entering filter or pump.
MALE ADAPTER
MALE INSERT
A Male Insert is used to connect flexible tubing to a pipe or a
device. One end is threaded and the other is barbed to hold
the tubing.
FLEXIBLE PVC PIPE
Flexible PVC Pipe is a very strong pipe that is, as its
name implies, flexible which makes it easy to work
with. It is designed to fit into standard schedule 40
PVC or ABS fittings where it can be glues into place.
Flexible PVC provides more water flow than rigid pipe
using elbows to make bends would allow.
BALL VALVES
Ball Valves are used to regulate water flow through a pipe.
They allow for complete flow when fully open.
CHECK VALVES
Free Flow Check Valves are used to provide flow through a
pipe in one direction only. When installed between an
external filter and the pond, it keeps the dirty water in the
filter from flowing back into the pond if power is lost. They
are also used to keep an external pump primed if power is
lost.
Spring type check valves should never be used in a pond installation.
GATE VALVES
Gate Valves, referred to as knife valves by some, are easier
to use than a ball valve for fully opened or closed operation.
They are not used for regulating flow.
EDGING
Edging your pond will give it a finished look. You can hang a picture on a wall by
itself but put a frame around it and you have a masterpiece. This goes for your
pond. Put an edge around it and it stands out and calls to you to notice it. Edging
will also secure your pond liner beneath it.
There are many types of edging. Raised
edging or tilting the edging slightly upward
will help to discourage surface runoff from
entering the pond. Your edging can be
extended over the edge of the water by 1-2
inches to conceal the liner from the sun
and your view, making it more attractive.
Mortaring the stone or brick edging will
provide a safe and secure edge. Brick or cut stones gives a formal look to your
pond. A mixture of edging can create an informal look to your pond. Plants can
be used to cascade over the edges to give a soft natural look. If you use plants,
leave an area where you can walk close to the water. The use of plants can be
inexpensive and easy to install.
Place your plants far enough back from your
pond's water edge so that when they
cascade over the edge they won't cover too
much of the water surface. Keep them
trimmed back. You can grow grass up to
your pond's edge but keep it and all the
clippings out of your water.
Dwarf and low-growing conifers, evergreen ground covers and spreading broadleaved evergreens make for a satisfactory edging for your pond. You can use tall
ornamental grasses growing behind the pond with smaller grasses toward the
sides. This allows you to see your complete pond from the house. The taller
plants are used for a backdrop and are reflected in the water on sunny days. You
will get ideas from visiting other ponds and you can see many ponds in one day
by going on a pond tour.
LIGHTING
You can create amazing effects with water feature lighting—make a fountain
glow, illuminate an entire pond from within, highlight an attractive statue, or
heighten the reflection of a beautiful tree.
Water garden lights are available for installation as
either in-water or out-of-water lighting. All, however,
should be connected to a GFCI outlet for safety, and
those used in the water should be made specifically for
underwater use.
There are several types of in-water lights, and each
creates its own special effect, depending on how you
position it. Most designs call for lights that have dark,
subdued casings. Stainless steel or white casings can be obtrusive, especially
during daytime.
Fountain lights, either in white or colors, add
drama to a spray. Some fountain lights also
come equipped with transparent wheels of
several colors. Use colored light sparingly,
however. Too much can look gaudy.
TYPES OF LIGHTS
•
Floating Lights—Drifting on top of the water, floating lights create a festive
atmosphere. Some have smoked glass, which has a more subdued effect.
To hold the lights in once place, anchor the cord with smooth-edged brick
or stone.
•
Submerged Lights—Made for underwater use, submerged lights illuminate
the pool or draw attention to features outside the pool, such as special
plants or statues. They also add drama when installed under fountains or
waterfalls. Underwater lighting is available for both floodlighting and
spotlighting effects and their lighting is diffused.
•
Floodlights—Use the wide beam of a floodlight to illuminate large areas.
Inside a pond or pool, it can make the body of water seem to glow from
within. Outside the pool, it’s best to restrict lighting to a seating area, such
as a deck, because it produces a glare if directed at a sharp angle to the
water. If used outside the pool, position it to shoot across the water at a
low angle.
•
Spotlights—whether under or out of the water, the tight beam of a spotlight
can shine upward to highlight a specific feature. Place it beneath an
attractive element, such as a waterfall, and the element will appear to
glow. When carefully positioned under the water, a spotlight can create a
reflection of the feature it illuminates. Outside the water, aim it to highlight
a feature in the water or place it under statues, trees, or large poolside
plants.
•
Out-of-water lights—Low-voltage lights that can be installed along a path
or at the water’s edge include spotlights, floodlights, and decorative light
fixtures located outside the water. Use them to increase safety for
nighttime strolls or to highlight focal points.
UV CLARIFIERS
Algae in the form of "Green Water" commonly occurs in ponds. The algae itself is
not a problem but it looks unsightly and hides your fish. Fortunately there are a
number of things you can do to rid yourself of green water. Algae requires
nutrients and sunlight to thrive - so therefore the goal of the pond keeper is deny
algae these ingredients.
•
Shade as much of the water as possible with lilies and other aquatic
plants. Algae requires sunlight - so floating plants prevent sunlight from
feeding the algae.
•
All aquatic plants absorb nutrients from the water that would otherwise be
used for algae.
•
Feed your plants only as directed. Fertilizer tablets can be inserted into
the soil - so the fertilizer is absorbed by the plant roots with very little
released into the water for algae to consume.
A guaranteed way to keep water clear is the addition of a UV Clarifier. Exposure
to the correct wavelengths of UV light kill the DNA in algae. Once it dies and
clumps together, the external filter can filter it out. This has become a very
popular and effective way dealing with green water.
A clarifier kills beneficial organisms only if
they get into the UV chamber, but it won’t
affect the beneficial bacteria that colonize
inside the biofilter and on the sides and
bottom of the pond. Aquatic plants should
be included in a plan that uses a UV
clarifier. Otherwise, you’ll end up with clear
water that’s full of nitrites, which can be
detrimental to fish.
HOW IT WORKS
A UV clarifier consists of an ultraviolet bulb inside a quartz-glass tube and PVC
housing. A pump forces water through a pipe to the UV unit, which sits outside of
the pond. The water is irradiated as it passes between the inside of the housing
and the outside of the glass tube. (The light breaks down algae). The water is the
returned directly to the pond or via a biofilter, waterfall, stream, fountain, piped
statuary, or bog.
UV clarifiers are labeled according to their
wattage, maximum gph, and
recommended pond size range. Their
strength varies. If the maximum flow rate
for the UV clarifier is exceeded, algae will
move past the UV light too quickly to be
killed. Buy a clarifier with a maximum gph capacity that exceeds the gph of the
pump that powers water to it. A higher wattage means that the unit can
successfully handle a greater gph.
Because clarifiers kill bacteria, remember to unplug the UV unit when adding
beneficial bacteria to a biofilter or directly into the pond. Resume operating it
when you want to rid the water of suspended algae. A UV light bulb is good for a
single season, so replace it each spring. Even if the light continues to burn for a
new season, its spectrum will no longer be effective.
ELECTRICITY
You can successfully operate an ecologically balanced water feature without
using electrical power. But most water feature owners prefer to add the visual,
aural, and biological benefits that moving, splashing, pump-powered water
provides. Other pond accessories require electricity as well. Outdoor lighting
enables homeowners to view their gardens in the evening and at night.
Fishkeepers in cold regions rely on deicers to safeguard their prized fish during
winter.
Before starting any electrical installation, learn about your local electrical code
from your city or county inspector (department of building inspection). Also check
the National Electric Code (NEC), which gives minimum standards for outdoor
wiring. Local building codes may have particular requirements, depending on
climate and soil conditions. For example, your local code may require
underground power lines to be encased in conduit buried at a certain depth.
DIGGING THE HOLE
The most unappealing part of creating a garden pond is the digging. However,
with some planning—and when done properly—digging can be downright fun.
When planning your garden pond, take into consideration how much digging you
can do and adjust either the size of the water garden or the amount you do
alone. Digging even a small pool is not a job for a person with a history of back
pain or heart problems.
WHAT TO DO
Start by marking the site with a garden hose, rope, or garden lime. Then finetune the outline with stakes (every foot or so) and twine. Cut alone the outline
with a spade; then remove the top layer of sod. If you’re going to use turf as
edging, cut the sod approximately four inches in from the outline of the pond.
Remove the sod inside the outline and peel back the four-inch strip. After
installing the liner, flip the sod back over it.
To edge with stones or other material, dig an outwardly sloping shelf (six to eight
inches wide by two inches deep) for the liner and the edging. The trench should
be deep enough for the edging stones to sit flush with the ground or three to four
inches deep for a concrete footing for edges that will get heavy traffic.
With the grass removed, mark the outlines for marginal shelves; then begin
digging from the center outward. Dig two inches deeper than the pool depth to
allow for an underlayment of sand (less for other materials).
As you dig, angle the sides slightly, about 20 degrees, and make sure the edges
of the pond are level, or the liner will show. With a small project, you can place a
carpenter’s level on a straight piece of 2x4 to check al around the pond.
For a larger project, put a stake in the center of the pond with its top at the
planned water level. Rest one end of a long straight board on the stake and the
other end on the edge of the pool. Check the level. Rotate the board a few feet,
again noting the level. Repeat until you return to the starting point.
Use the removed grass to patch bare spots in the yard to add it to a compost
pile. If the topsoil is in reasonably good condition, add it to the vegetable garden,
spread it on flower beds, or create new beds and berms. If you’re installing a rigid
liner, set aside the soil to backfill around the liner. Put the soil in a wheelbarrow
or on a large tarp or piece of plastic to protect the lawn. Discard clay-laden
subsoil or use it to build up a slope for a waterfall. Dump larger amounts at a
landfill.
INSTALLING A FLEXIBLE LINER
While you are digging out your pond, take into consideration that you should put
2" of light sand onto each layer to help prevent rocks, roots or debris from
puncturing your liner. After you have completely dug your pond out, level each of
the shelves and thoroughly go through the entire pond and remove any rocks or
debris that may be protruding. Add approximately 2" of sand inside the pond to
act as a "cushion" and protector under your pond liner. Lightly sprinkle the sand
with water and tamper it down. It is also recommend that you use a geotextile
underlayment for under your pond liner as well, which helps protect the liner from
any rocks or sharp objects. By adding the sand and underlayment, it also helps
to provide protection and "cushion".
STEPS
Pond being dug working from the middle out, including bog and marginal
shelves. The mound of dirt at the opposite end will be used for a waterfall.
More dirt will be added later.
Once everything is leveled, dug properly, bottom drains installed (if desired) and
sand and geotextile underlayment are installed, it's time to put in your pond liner.
Open the liner and with the assistance of some friends or family members,
carefully drape the liner across the pond making sure it overlaps and has equal
distance on all sides. (Your pond liner will be larger than your pond when you
drape it over.) Secure the edges with rocks or bricks and start to fill it with water.
Liner draped over pond ready to be filled. Gravity allows the liner to "sink"
especially in a large pond. The water pressure will cause the liner to contour
around the edges within your pond.
By the way, you don't have to walk into your pond and manually contour the liner
to the edges; the water will do that while it is filling. Try to have any folds or
wrinkles out when you start to fill it. While the pond is being filled, you can tug
and move the liner a bit to work out any folds that develop. Once the liner is taut,
you can reposition the rocks or bricks at the edges allowing for the liner to sink
down and fill with water.
Continue filling your pond with water. Be sure to straighten out any pleats or
folds in the liner as it is being filled. Some pleats are inevitable,
but the less, the better.
Take some pictures of your pond during different stages of creating it and while
the pond is being filled. You'll enjoy looking back at the photos and have a "brag
book" to show your friends and family!
The pond is completely filled with water. This pond took approx. 40 hours to fill
over the course of 3 days (it is over 26,000 gallons). The excess liner has been
trimmed around the pond and will be buried and covered up with landscaping.
Once the pond is filled with water, you can trim the excess liner off. If you
calculated the size of your pond liner accurately and positioned the liner
correctly, you should have a little excess liner that needs to be cut off. You can
cut the liner relatively easy with an Exacto knife or sharp scissors. Depending on
how you decided to landscape the edge of your pond, you can dig a small trench
around the pond and bury it with dirt or you can hide it with coping stones,
boulders, etc.
One important note to consider when creating the pond is the edge of the pond
and landscaping around it. Do you want a very pronounced and defined edge
with bricks or coping stones or slate? Or do you want a natural border with
cobblestones, rocks or boulders? The edge of your pond helps defines it's
"mood" as well as the landscaping around it, so give it some thought. You will
need to decide these things while calculating the size of the pond liner, in case
you need extra liner.
Regardless of what material your pond's edge will be, make sure that it's edge is
at least 10% higher than the ground around it. This will help prevent water from
rain or sprinklers from going into your pond and any chemicals or fertilizers in the
soil around it. If you have your pond in part of a natural hill, you may have to
create a trench on that side of your pond, fill it with pea gravel and sand, which
will help divert the water from your hill from going down into your pond.
In this case, you may need a professional landscaper with experience in creating
ponds to do the work for you. Once again, definitely have the edges of your
pond at least 10% higher than the ground around it. You can easily do this with
the dirt that came from digging out your pond. This edge must be level too, or
else you will have water leaking from the lower areas.
Trim the excess liner off with an Exacto knife or sharp scissors. The liner can be
buried in a little trench around your pond or with coping stones and boulders
depending on your landscape design around your pond.
This pond has a cobblestone edge, which have smooth edges. Part of the
cobblestones go into the water and a "lip" was created while the pond was being
dug to hold back the cobblestones from entering the pond.
One important note to make about putting cobblestones or rocks around the
pond's edge. The cobblestones, no matter how much you rinse them off with a
hose, will add a lot of dirt to your pond and you'll be so disappointed especially
after seeing the crystal clear water in your pond from the garden hose. You will
have to put your liner in, fill your pond up with water, add the cobblestones to
your pond and then drain all of the water out, rinse off the rocks even more, clean
your pond out and then refill the pond.
This is a big step and can be very time consuming and cause your water bill to
go up, but you have to do it and in the order described. The cobblestones have to
be cleaned and this is the only way to do it (unless you have a small pond and
want to wash each cobblestone off in a bucket of water). Naturally other rocks,
coping stones, etc. should be cleaned as well.
The landscaping is not complete in this photo. Three waterfalls will be created at
the end of the pond. You can see one waterfall in this picture and the
cobblestone edge. Bog and Marginal Plants will be planted within the pond as
well as landscaping done around it.
Another view of the pond "in process". The waterfall is incomplete and was being
constructed. The pond is 25' wide x 35' long x 4' deep. Hoses will later be buried
and hidden within the landscaping. Water hyacinths are seen floating on top of
the pond.
INSTALLING PREFORMED LINERS
Choose the largest liner possible that suits your site and your pocketbook.
Preformed units appear smaller once installed, filled with water, and edged. If
you want to keep koi or goldfish, the pond should be deep enough to
accommodate them; if it has plant shelves, they should be wide enough to hold
the pots you will use for planting.
After determining where you want to install your pond, carry the preformed unit to
the site. Orient the liner, topside up, on the spot where you want to install it. Use
a carpenter’s level and plumb bob or a weighted string to establish the outer
edge of the pond. You can’t simply mark the outline of the form’s bottom on the
ground and start digging. Preformed rigid pond walls slope slightly inward (from
top to bottom), making the top perimeter larger than the bottom perimeter. The
plumb bob drops straight down from the top perimeter, enabling you to outline
the perimeter on the ground directly below it. Mark the perimeter using a rope or
a hose. Enlarge the entire perimeter by two inches to allow working room within
the excavation. The extra space will be filled later with sifted soil or sand. Finalize
the outline by marking it with spray paint, flour or sand.
Preformed ponds can be used as built in ponds or aboveground ponds. For a
superb, natural effect, the best these days are fiberglass-preformed ponds.
Building backyard ponds becomes simplicity itself.
The very best preformed ponds these days
are made from fiberglass and come
complete with rock edgings built into the
preformed ponds. Such preformed ponds
cost the least overall if you want a built in
pond. Not only are the total costs of
preformed ponds lowest, but also the
difficulty of installing edgings is removed completely. The job is also finished in a
fraction of the time it would take if the edging had to be done separately.
The strength of fiberglass-preformed ponds allows them to be used for both inground and aboveground garden pond installations.
You can also do away with digging completely by buying aboveground preformed
ponds. This makes preformed ponds ideal for patio or even indoor preformed
ponds.
The alternative to fiberglass-preformed ponds is flexible plastic garden pond
liners. These garden pond liners need much more attention to detail to complete
and require some skills not required for installing preformed ponds.
STEPS
1. Select an area that is sunny and has at least 46 hours of sunlight. Good drainage is a must.
Root free would be great, too.
2. Standing inside the pond, mark the pond's
perimeter on the ground, using an edger or flat
shovel. You can outline it with chalk dust as well.
3. Dig a corresponding hole a little larger and
deeper than the pond. Make sure the excavation
has a firmly compacted base. Take out any rocks,
roots, or sharp debris. You can put approx. 2" of
play sand base under the pond and have some for
around the edges. NOTE: For our molded shelf
ponds, simply replicate the pond's contour
within the excavation, making sure to fully
support the shelf with tightly packed sand or dirt.
Rinse out pre-formed pond with water real well before
installing.
4. Bed the pond on a layer of sand, then level the
pond. You should have the pond's edge slightly
above ground level so the dirt around it slopes at
least 10% away from the pond to prevent rain from
washing soil, lawn fertilizers, etc. into the pond.
5. Backfill with loose dirt or sand between pond
and excavation, stopping at halfway mark between
excavation base and pond's flange (upper lip).
Start to fill with water.
6. Commence filling with water slowly and continue
backfilling with loose sand. Gauge your time so the
filling of water and backfilling of sand steps are
finished at the same time. If water is chlorinated,
allow 48 hours before adding plants. If you are
adding fish, you need to dechlorinate the water
before adding fish. If you got dirt in the pond while
backfilling, it is a good idea to drain the pond
completely, wipe clean (never use detergents)
and refill with water.
7. (Optional) A layer of washed, lightly colored stone
(pea gravel, cobblestones) may be arranged within
the pond prior to stocking. Dirt and sediment will
rest upon the rocks, becoming less noticeable.
Decorate with rocks, bridge, aquatic plants, lighting, fountains, or whatever your
imagination decides.
8. (Optional)
Combine two or more ponds for a stronger, more dramatic presentation.
BUILDING CONCRETE PONDS
BEFORE YOU CONSIDER BUILDING A CONCRETE POND, YOU WILL HAVE
TO HAVE BASIC MASONRY KNOWLEDGE, OR HIRE SOMEONE WHO
DOES. OTHERWISE, GO WITH A LINER.
Excavating a concrete pond is done along the same lines as for liner ponds,
except that some allowances need to be made for a base about 6" thick and
sloping sides 4". If the sides will be vertical allow for 6" walls like the base. The
depth of the excavation should include a layer of compacted hardcore like
crushed stones or bricks.
STEPS
1. Cover the base of the excavation with hardcore as described above. Compact
it into a layer that is 6" thick. Renting a electric tamper may be a good idea if your
soil is sandy.
2. Make up a dry mixture of concrete consisting of 3 parts coarse aggregate; 2
parts sharp sand; 1 part cement. Mix thoroughly.
3. Add enough water to form a consistency that allows a slit made with a
shovelhead to remain open.
4. If the pond is small combine steps 5 and 7 into a single operation. If your pond
is fairly large then follow steps 5, 6 and 7 separately.
5. INFORMAL PONDS:
Lay concrete along base and around the sides of the pond to a depth of about 2
½”
FORMAL PONDS
Lay concrete only along the base of the pond to a depth of about 2 ½”.
6. INFORMAL PONDS:
Cover base and sides with a layer of heavy gauge chicken wire to prove
reinforcement. Steel mesh or rods may be used if the pond is very large.
FORMAL PONDS:
Use chicken wire only on the base, with rods or mesh being installed later when
the pond sides are constructed.
NOTE: Either way, bed the chicken wire into the concrete to ensure no exposed
areas protrude after Step 7 is done. Exposed Bits of wire will rust quickly and
cause problems later on.
7. INFORMAL PONDS:
Lay the remaining concrete to a depth of about 5 ½ " along the base and 3" on
the sloping sides and shelves.
FORMAL PONDS:
Finish laying the base to a depth of about 5" but only if shuttering, can be
installed immediately. Otherwise, do not complete the base but key the surface
instead to ensure an effective joining when the final layer of concrete is added
on. (Shuttering are the wooden forms you need to hold the concrete in place for it
to dry and harden.)
HINTS:
The shuttering or forms should leave at least a 6" gap between it and the earth
wall. Slowly pour the concrete and insert chicken wire or other suitable
reinforcement material.
8. FORMAL PONDS ONLY:
Install shuttering/forms if the pond is small enough to allow this to be done
without having to step on wet concrete.
9. FORMAL PONDS ONLY:
Mix up concrete of the same grade and consistency as that used for the pond
bottom base and shovel this into the cavity between the form and excavation
walls. Always wet the shuttering or forms with soapy water before you start. You
don't want it to stick to the forms. Once you have poured a layer a few inches
thick, you can place reinforcement rods or wire down in the concrete supporting it
at the top of your forms.
10: FORMAL PONDS ONLY:
Allow the sides to set for 24 hours. Then remove shuttering/forms.
11. FORMAL PONDS ONLY:
Finish laying pond base if it was not completed at the end of step 7. The final
thickness should be around 5" total. Allow to dry 24 hours.
12. FORMAL AND INFORMAL PONDS:
Prepare a dry mixture consisting of 3 parts sharp sand; 1 part cement, add
waterproofing powder at this stage, if you want. If you want to add concrete dye
for coloring, this is the time to do it!
13. Gently add water to the dry mixture until it is like a stiff paste. Be sure to
prepare enough to cover the whole pond to a thickness of 1". This is called
rendering. Apply the rendering with a trowel leaving no ridges or depressions.
Get it a smooth as you can. Work quickly so it doesn't dry out.
14. You may find that a small amount of water collects in the bottom. If so, it will
disappear is an hour or so. If it is hot outside, you should cover the surface with
most sacking to slow down the drying process.
NOTES: Opinions vary as to how long you should wait before filling with water. If
your weather is damp, allow it to cure for 1 week. If the weather is hot or really
dry, 3 days should be sufficient.
SAFE FOR AQUATIC LIFE
A newly constructed pond is far to hostile to all forms of life, so you must make it
safe for the fish and plants. The main danger is from the lime in the concrete. We
recommend building one in the fall allowing for the winter months to achieve a
safe level of maturity.
You can seal your new pond by applying 3 coats of polyurethane resin to the
surface. This coating dries in about 30-45 minutes, allowing you to complete your
sealing sooner than other products. BE SURE that you completely cover the
surface leaving NO holes or untouched areas. If you do, the lime will leech and
you will kill everything in your new pond.
IMPORTANT: You must fill and drain the pond several times before filling to
introduce fish and plants. This removes impurities and renders it safe. Last wash
should be made with a mild detergent and a good rinsing. If you want wait a few
months and fill and drain the pond 2 times a week for 2 months you can eliminate
the above procedure, but don't know why you would want to.
Now you have the information you need to build a really nice Formal or Informal
concrete pond. One last point here. Concrete does deteriorate over time if left
unattended. Cracks appear and leaks develop. Some people opt for installing an
EPDM liner over the new concrete, which means your pond is ready to go as
soon as you fill it. No waiting!
BUILDING ABOVE GROUND PONDS
Aboveground pools and ponds are good
options where digging would be difficult,
and they’re also appealing because they
bring the water up close, which is
especially enjoyable near a patio or
other sitting area.
Raised water features tend to take
longer than sunken ponds to build and
usually cost more. However, they’re less
likely to become cluttered with blowing debris or eroding soil.
STEPS
1. Place the pool liner in position and mark out the shape on the ground around it
2. Carefully remove any turf within the shape and excavate to a level soil surface
slightly larger than the shape. A long spirit level, or a spirit level with a long
straight edge is essential.
The shape of the pool to satisfy your landscape design ideas must be marked on
the ground plumb with the outside edge.
3. From this line inwards 2 inches (5cm) and outwards by possibly 4 inches
(10cm) a small 4-inch (10cm) deep trench for a footing must be excavated and
filled with a semi-dry concrete 5:1 mix of 'All-in' ballast and cement powder.
The width of the footing depends ultimately on the thickness of the facing stone
or brick that the water feature is intended to have.
4. If the pool is to be partially set in the ground (landscape design ideas?), the
base of the pool should be marked on the ground and the resulting shape
excavated to the required depth at which the base should be flattened and
leveled.
5. A 4inch (10cm) concrete block wall will be built up to support the rim of the
pool. A single line of concrete blocks is sufficient to support the pool out of the
ground at marginal shelf level. The depth of a standard concrete block (9ins or
23cm with mortar) generally corresponds the depth of most manufacture's pools
at the marginal shelf. Two high, they correspond to the complete depth to the
base. Slight variations can be taken up with a layer of brickwork or thick mortar
joints. Leave the vertical joints of the block work partly open to begin with, in
order to facilitate the backfilling with sand.
6. With the block work in place, replace the liner on a thin 1-inch (25mm) cushion
of sand. If it seems well supported fill it with water. Flimsy liners can filled to the
marginal shelf level.
7. Leave it there full of water over night to do any settling that might occur, before
you attempt any edging. If it shifts - empty it and build up the sand support where
it has sunk. Gently ramming down the backfill further at the lowest point can
make up tiny fractions in subsidence. If you need to do this don't overdo it
because it can buckle up the rim of the liner, which you want to keep as flat as
possible to take whatever edging you might want to choose to go round it. As you
backfill the pointing to the upper parts of the blockwork must be completed
8. The facing stonework to the pool can be started at any point using the
blockwork as support. You could alternatively use a wider block (6inch or 15cm)
and just render the face of the blocks with cement. With the stonework built level,
and edge can be laid in place. 'Profile edging' or segment paving saves cutting
slabs, or in natural stone, crazy paving is most popular.
MAKING A BOG
Putting a bog garden by your pond or anywhere for that matter makes a great
project. The best part about a bog garden, other than how great it looks,
is that it is maintenance free.
THINGS TO CONSIDER
•
•
•
•
Bog plants perform best in a sunny or lightly shaded spot.
It's best to situate it in a low-lying area. A nearby hose is preferred.
You can actually make your bog deeper at one end so that you can plant
true bog plants at the deep end and some merely moisture loving plants at
the other.
A plot of land 3' wide by 4' long or smaller is fine for the beginner, with a
pit of 16" to 24" deep.
STEPS
1. Mark out the shape of your bog garden with a piece of
rope or your garden hose. Make it informal. Remove all the turf/sod with a shovel
and discard it.
2. Excavate the top soil (usually 4"-5" down) and put it on a tarp or a piece of
plastic next to the excavation. You can mix this in with your " bog soil" mixture.
Now, excavate the entire pit to the ultimate depth. 1 1/2’ to 2’ and discard all this
soil, as you won't be using it.
3. To make the soil in the pit more water retentive, line the pit with a double layer
of black plastic. Spread it across the bottom of the pit, and up the sides working it
into the corners.
4. Press all the wrinkles flat and cut the edge all the way around about an inch or
two below ground level
5. Punch holes everywhere in the bottom so that the plastic will retain most of the
water in the bog but the excess will drain into the underlying ground. This slow
drainage will prevent the bog soil from getting to water logged and rancid.
6. Bog plants prefer a soil rich in humus so we need to make a mixture of " bog
soil". A mixture of
50 % peat moss, 25% compost or cow manure and 25% heavy black dirt works
the best.
7. For a bog garden 3' x 4' you will need 2-3 bales of peat moss, 4-5 bags of cow
manure and three or four bags of heavy top soil. Mix this all together (add in the
top soil you saved at the beginning) on a tarp or piece of plastic and fill in the pit
to within an inch or so below ground level. This slightly below ground level
encourages rainfall to drain into the bog.
8. Top off the soil with hardwood mulch, don't use pine...and fill the bog full of
water with the hose. The mulch helps to reduce the moisture loss and also keeps
the weeds down.
With all the humus the soil mix will be springy and almost squishy just like a bog.
In the deepest and wettest portion of the bog you can use true bog plants native
to this area, including Pickerel Rush, Arrow Head, Horse Tail, Cattail and Marsh
Marigold.
You can also use perennials that like damp soil at the shallow end. Irises, Yellow
Flag Iris, Tiger Lilies, Common Ferns, Zebra Grass, Sweet Flag, etc.
MAINTENANCE
Maintaining bogs is almost painless. Depending upon the amount of rain
received you might need to fill the bog with water once or twice a summer.
Let the water run into the bog until it overflows.
BUILDING WATERFALLS
Preformed waterfalls allow for simple do-ityourself installation. Most preformed units
are made of fiberglass or plastic; many can
look natural. Sizes range from a foot high to
six feet or higher. You may choose among
units that include a built-in hidden filter. Use
the manufacturer’s guidelines for installation
and its suggested range of gph (gallons per
hour) to help you choose. Keep the falls
within the recommended gph because too
much flow can cause water loss and too little
flow can result in a loss of visual and aural impact.
Fountains and waterfalls give the water garden a focal point in addition to adding
beauty. Furthermore, place the focal structure in a location to get the greatest
viewing impact.
Fountains come in a wide range of shapes, colors, sizes, price ranges and are
available at many related retail sources. A waterfall is generally created by
building a slope using excess soil, liner material and assorted rocks to create a
stream that is recycled with a submergible pump. Plastic tubing or a dark colored
water hose is attached to lead from the pool pump up-and-under the waterfall
during construction. It is especially important that the height of the waterfall or
fountain spray coincide with the size of the water garden.
STEPS
1. Placement of pump
Secure the flexible tubing to the outlet
of the pump using a stainless steel
hose clamp. Submerse it at the
furthest point from the waterfall. Route
the tubing over the side of the pond (it
can be hidden under the perimeter
stones). Make sure the tubing is not
pinched by the stone, and avoid sharp
bends in the tubing so it does not kink
and reduce flow.
2. Tubing
Route the tubing to the waterfall. Bury it under soil.
3. Building waterfall pond
Use displaced soil from the pond to build an elevated area for the waterfall.
Consider making a small auxiliary pond in this mound. Position the spillway to
flow into the main pond area. Build the small pond using the same techniques
and liner as the main pond.
Two layers of liner are recommended for
this pond. The first one contains the water.
The second liner channels the water
towards the fall.
Important! Be sure the liner drapes
underneath the waterfall spillway stones otherwise you will experience water loss
when the waterfall is in operation.
You may need to use liner seaming tape in this stage.
4. Building spillway
Once the spillway liner is in place, you will want to pump water up to the auxiliary
pond and watch it flow down the liner spillway. (At this stage - your pond should
be full of water).
Carefully select stones and position them while the water is flowing over them.
With the water flowing over the rock, you may replace, shift and add stones so
you achieve the desired water spills you desire.
5. Adding extras
Plant moss and small plants between the stones around the waterfall to achieve
a natural look.
Note: The discharge from the filters can be routed to the waterfall pond or into
the water stream. Because the water flows by gravity out the bottom of most of
the filters, it must be positioned higher than the waterfall. If this is difficult to
achieve, consider a "Y" or "T" connector in your tubing or use the pump diverter,
with some water being diverted to the filter and some to the waterfall. You may
also want to use two separate pumps, one for the waterfall and one for the filter.
OTHER CONSIDERATIONS
•
Building backyard waterfalls to handle more than 1,000 gallons per hour or
building waterfalls for large volume flows normally should be reserved for
larger koi ponds where this kind of flow rate is very important. When
building waterfalls for smaller ponds aim to use gentle flow. As well as
gentle flow soothing sound should also be a main criterion or concern for
building a pond waterfall.
•
Building waterfalls high and wide on a small pond makes no sense. The
outcome will look odd and be very noisy.
•
Building waterfalls impacts significantly upon your choice of pump for any
pond. Get the FREE Excel spreadsheet above to make sure you do not
get this item wrong. A backyard waterfall with the wrong pump can be very
disappointing.
•
For every inch of garden ponds waterfall lip width allow 250 liters per hour
of pond water flow (about 50 gallons). Remember your backyard pond
waterfall should send out soothing sounds, not great roars.
•
Building waterfalls high? For most small garden ponds (up to say 500
liters or 120 gallons) building a pond waterfall 18” or 50cm above the pond
surface is good enough. For large koi ponds 1 meter or 3 feet is probably
high enough.
•
Do not switch off the pond waterfall (be it a fiberglass waterfall or any
other kind) at night if you have a koi pond or a fish pond unless you run a
second pump to feed the bio-filter, which keeps the fish alive. Oxygen
required by fish and biofilter bacteria is supplied from circulating water
flowing down such a fiberglass waterfall.
•
Building waterfalls is fun and easy using synthetic rock waterfalls made
from fiberglass. Certainly a preformed waterfall or preformed waterfalls
stacked together is the way to go. Forget digging and concrete or liner
waterfalls. They are too difficult and costly and add no extra value over
any fiberglass waterfall I have ever seen.
WATERFALL EXAMPLES
CREATING FOUNTAINS
You've seen them on TV: huge, complex water features, with high-cost water
fountains, installed by skilled landscape designers. Rather daunting, aren't they?
You want a water feature for your own landscaping, but just a small water
fountain, you say? A cheap, low-maintenance garden water fountain whose
gurgling sound will soothe those frayed nerves when you pull into the driveway
after a hard day at work? Well this easy do-it-yourself project for beginners tells
you how to build just such a water feature.
Before excavating the hole for the pond liner of your outdoor water fountain, have
a certified electrician install an outdoor outlet near where the artificial pond will
be, if you don't already have one. Since the cord length of the pump I selected
was 6', I determined a location for my water fountain that would be within 6' of the
outlet.
An ideal location in your landscaping for a water fountain is near a patio. While
relaxing on the patio, you'll be treated to the soothing sounds of the water
fountain.
STEPS
1. Your first landscaping task is to remove any weeds from the area you've
selected for your outdoor water fountain, and make sure it's level. Then you will
dig out the hole, into which the preformed plastic pond liner will be placed. To get
an accurate measurement for the hole's dimensions, simply flip the preformed
pond liner upside down and trace around it. The pond liner that I used is just a
small, cheap, rigid liner, 6" deep with a diameter of 2'.
2. A water feature using a pond liner of this size will be just large enough to make
a statement in your landscaping -- if you make it the focal point of a small niche
on your landscape. Just use a "big fish in a small pond" approach (pardon the
pun). That is, make sure your water fountain is situated in an area of your
landscape where it won't be upstaged by larger elements. When you choose
plants to grow around your water fountain, make sure their height at maturity is
short, relative to the water fountain statuary. Draw the eye to the artificial pond by
having a stone path lead up to it, by accenting it with a bright color, or by any one
of a number of similar landscape design tricks.
3. Make the depth of your hole about what the depth of the pond liner is. Try to
make the diameter of the hole match that of the preformed plastic pond liner as
closely as possible, for a good tight fit. If, however, you find you've made the hole
too wide, use sand to fill in the gap.
4. Sand will also be used at the bottom of the hole, since a sand floor will be
malleable enough to allow you to play with the height of the pond liner. Put about
an inch of sand in, so that the top rim of the preformed pond liner will stand about
an inch above ground level -- reducing the amount of dirt that will keep falling into
your artificial pond. You'll be pushing the sand around to get the level of the pond
liner just right.
5. Next, place the preformed plastic pond liner
into the hole. Check for levelness by placing a
carpenter's level across it (see photo left) -both front to back and left to right. Depending
on the readings you get from the carpenter's
level, it is at this point that you'll have to remove the pond liner from the hole and
adjust its sandy floor accordingly.
FOUNTAIN STATUARY
It's the decorative statues that really make an outdoor water fountain a focal point
of your garden. But if our goal in this artificial pond project is building a cheap
fountain, we'd better employ some do-it-yourself tricks to keep costs down.
It's easy enough to go out and buy a costly water fountain statue with the
"plumbing" all ready to go. But with a little ingenuity, we can reduce the cost of
this artificial garden pond project considerably.
We'll simply be making plumbing where no plumbing existed before! This also
gives us more flexibility in our small artificial pond project. For in our shopping we
may stumble upon just the right statue -- and at a cheap price -- only to find that it
wasn't designed to house water fountain plumbing.
In the picture to the left, you'll see the solution
to this problem. For my artificial pond I had
purchased discount plastic statuary -- a boy
and girl holding a basin -- that was designed
sans plumbing. So I simply drilled one hole in
the bottom of the statue, and another near the
top. With an Exacto knife I expanded the holes
so that they'd be large enough for me to feed
plastic tubing through.
I used 1/2" plastic tubing, because the discharge adapter on my pump is 1/2" (the
discharge adapter is the little "pipe" coming up out of the pump's hole, through
which the water is pushed out). With the plastic tubing fed through the statuary,
the excitement begins! For now it is time to bring your decorative water fountain
statue over to the preformed pond liner.
Fill the pond liner with water. Place the pump into the water, without plugging it in
yet (keep the plug end over by its outlet, so that it will stay dry). The Little Giant
submersible pump model that I mentioned (Page 1) should always be submerged
when it's running -- otherwise, it will overheat and you'll damage the pump. Now
take the end of the plastic tubing that's hanging out of the bottom of the statue,
and fit it over the pump's discharge adapter. Situate your water fountain statue
wherever you planned for it to stand. In my pond's design the statue sits on the
rim of the pond liner (half over the water and half over the ground).
And now for the moment you've been anticipating. Take the pump's plug, and
plug it in to the outdoor outlet. Enjoy gazing at that first jet of water, shooting up
into the sky. After this initial enjoyment, you can go back to work, adjusting the
way you've situated your water fountain statuary, so that the jet goes where you
want it to go. If the jet drops at the edge of the water, rather than in the middle,
you'll lose water faster. Too much of the falling water will splash out onto the
ground. The faster you lose water, the sooner you'll have to refill the pond.
With these adjustments made, you're ready to incorporate decorations to
enhance the beauty of your outdoor water fountain. Besides water garden plants
and additional statues, decorative rocks placed in and around your new outdoor
water fountain will dress it up considerably. If you've made a habit over the years
of bringing home pretty rocks, this is the time to put them on display. Rocks and
water complement each other. If a nice rock specimen looks pretty when it's dry,
just get it wet -- and it becomes spectacular!
FOUNTAIN EXAMPLES
PUMP/PLUMBING TIPS
Plumbing your pond is necessary to provide a fountain or waterfalls, and also to
add pond filtration. From a cost standpoint and for ease of installation, buying a
single pump to power both a waterfall and the filtration system is recommended
for most ponds over 4' x 5' in size and less than about 25' x 30'.
Hopefully, you will find the following suggestions and comments regarding pump
installation to be helpful. These suggestions are by no means the only way to
accomplish your job, but in general they will solve many of the commonly found
problems and help you prevent many others.
Please note that Sequence pumps are out-of-pond pumps.
Do not submerge!
STEPS
1. Locate the pump as close to the source as possible. It is best to have your
main (longest) run of pipe on the discharge side of the pump. The pump is
designed to push water, not pull it.
2. Install the pump outside the pond, and if possible below the level of the
surface of the pond (flooded suction). This will help insure a proper supply of
water to the pump. Remember, a pump can’t pump out water if there isn’t any
available. Even if your supply line comes up and over the top of the pond wall, it
will still offer a flooded suction if it has no breaks to atmosphere before it goes
back down below the surface level, and if all air is removed.
3. If it is not possible to provide a flooded suction installation then:
Position the pump as low as possible, and as near the source as possible. (A
pump one foot above the surface works better than one six feet above the
surface.)
Install basket strainer on the inlet of the pump or provide some other priming
source.
a) Suction piping should slope gently upward to the pump or strainer inlet.
b) Install a foot valve, or a check valve in the inlet line below the water level.
c) Always prime the entire inlet line, basket strainer, and pump before turning
it on.
d) If your pipe has a high spot (as in lower right illustration), install a tee at
the highest spot and use this spot to prime the suction line, (or to bleed off
air if pump is higher than the tee)
4. Always have your inlet pipe diameter equal to, or larger than, the discharge
line. This helps prevent cavitation.
5. Minimize friction losses by using large diameter pipe. Determine the
approximate flow rate you want, and the total length of your pipe. Consult the
“friction loss chart” mentioned earlier to choose the proper diameter pipe. (The
size of the pump’s suction and discharge ports does not indicate your
proper pipe size.) Choose a pipe diameter that keeps your friction loss below
about five feet per hundred feet of pipe. Even if you have a section of small
diameter pipe that you can’t change, as with a through the wall fitting, it is still
beneficial to use larger pipe on the majority of the run. The following chart can
help you determine your correct pipe diameter.
6. Use a filtration system that does not require a lot of pressure. It costs money to
create pressure. Biological filters work well and require very little pressure.
7. Never allow an out-of-pond centrifugal pump and motor unit to become
submerged. Use a GFI circuit for protection. If this ever accidentally occurs, shut
the unit down, disconnect it, and have a reputable service shop examine the
motor before re-using it.
8. Never run a pump dry. This may damage the mechanical seal and impeller.
They are designed to pump fluid, not air. Insure the pump is full of water before
you turn it on, and that it doesn’t out pump the supply. Note: if you have
purchased a dry run seal, it can run without water for a limited period of time.
9. Cover the pump and motor unit with a suitable shelter. When protected from
rain and dust the motor will last longer. The covering should allow the motor to
have suitable air recirculation for proper cooling.
10. If your pump is producing too much flow, you can reduce the flow by partially
closing a valve on the discharge line. Never restrict the inlet!!! Always allow a
couple gallons per minute to flow to prevent heat build up inside the pump
housing.
11. If more flow is required than a single pump can produce, consider using two
or more pumps in parallel. This also offers the benefits of being able to vary the
flow rates, insure partial flow if one units needs servicing, and can often save a
substantial amount of electricity compared to using a single, larger pump.
12. Choose a pump that can give you the required flows at the lowest possible
power consumption. Since pumps often operate continuously, the power
consumption (watts - not amps), and its effect on your monthly utility bill can be
very significant.
13. Check to be sure the motor electrical connections are set up to match the
supply voltage.
14. Install shut off valves before and after the pump, so you can easily remove it
from the line without having to drain your system. Be sure to use ball valves, as
they have low friction loss characteristics.
15. Use Teflon paste (not tape) for sealing threaded joints.
16. Make sure all your pipe joints are airtight. This is especially important on the
suction side.
INSTALLING LIGHTS
An underwater light in your fountain or pond adds character to any garden pond,
pool, or fountain. It gives the needed light at night to make your house more
attractive and stand out on the block.
Choose a light that best highlights your water structure. Giving an area less
lighting that is needed will not bring out the best of the area that you are trying to
light. Some lights are sold with colored filters that create a dramatic lighting
effect. Underwater lighting systems usually are low-voltage systems and are
relatively safe and easy to install. Leave installation of more elaborate 120-volt
lighting to a professional, unless you are an electrician
TOOLS NEEDED
Screwdriver
Combination Tool
Electrical ties for tying up excess wires
MATERIALS NEEDED:
Underwater light
Cable
Crimp-on connectors
Concrete block
Underwater lights usually are sold with the light, fixture, and cable in one
package. Check the package to make sure it has all the necessary items before
leaving the store if the package is already opened. The pre-fabricated concrete
block that anchors the light to the bottom of the pond, pool, or fountain is made
especially for the job and is sold separately.
The cable is attached to a transformer that reduces regular 120 voltages to 12 or
24 volts. Plug the transformer into an outdoor GFCI receptacle. You can
purchase this receptacle at any home improvement center also. Because you
probably won't want to keep plugging in the unit, especially when it gets cold
outside, place a plastic waterproof cover over the receptacle to keep it plugged in
and protected all season. Most transformers have a switch that turns the light on
at a preset time. Using color lights will make the fountain, pool or pond more
attractive. You can buy the special bulbs and filters for your project at your local
home improvement center.
Make a connection between the underwater light wires and the transformer. With
the type of transformer shown above, attach crimp-on connectors by squeezing
them onto the wires with a combination tool. Then screw each lead to the
appropriate terminal on the back of the transformer. Assemble the light fixture
according to directions in the package, if necessary. A concrete block usually
anchors the light in the water. Bore holes in the concrete block for lead shields,
and then screw the light's mounting bracket to the shields. Put the light in place
and plug the transformer into an outdoor GFCI receptacle.
If there is no place to attach the outdoor receptacle to, use a piece of 4x4 outdoor
post and cut it. Attach an electrical box by doing this: Place the post in the
ground and attach the receptacle to it. This way the post with the needed
electrical is right near your pond, fountain or pool for servicing, if need be.
This project should take around 2 or 3 hours to complete. You can now add
exotic fish to your pond and have them on display at night.
TIPS FOR SUCCESS
1. Install underwater lights directly below a waterfall or fountain. Aim light in
the same direction as the water’s motion to highlight it.
2. Install ground lighting to that it shines away from the observer. Pathway
lights should focus on the ground or nearby plants or ornaments and
present no visual glare.
3. Low-voltage underwater bulbs are typically 20 watts; low-voltage garden
lightbulbs are usually 10 or 12 watts. Underwater and garden bulbs may
be used interchangeably. However, if you are using a low-voltage garden
light set that powers six ground lights and decide to add one underwater
light, you will have to cut back to only four of the ground lights to avoid
overloading the circuit.
4. Avoid directing lights to shine on the water’s surface—this creates glare.
Use the water as a reflecting pool by leaving the surface dark and lighting
the surrounding landscaping instead.
5. Periodic cleaning of submersible light lenses keeps them performing at
their best.
6. Install lighting around your water feature before you finish landscaping,
such as laying sod or adding mulch or gravel.
7. Spotlighting an unusual specimen such as a night-blooming tropical water
lily shows off its special attraction. Avoid spotlighting a night bloomer from
below; more subtle side lighting works better.
8. If a low-voltage light fails to work when you test the set, check to be
certain that there is contact with the power cable.
9. Mount the transformer to a vertical stake that is set in concrete for stability.
10. Low-voltage lighting works best in small gardens because each lamp
lights a small area. Standard-voltage systems prove more valuable in
areas where brilliant illumination is required for safety or security.
ADDING EDGING
With the pump and filter in place, all that's needed complete the pond's
hardscape is the edging.
•
For a natural look, you can select various shapes and sizes of rock,
working from the waterfall to the opposite end of the pond (figure A).
Tip: The more weathered the stone, the more natural its appearance.
•
The pond's flagstone border serves two purposes: 1) To conceal the edge
of the liner and visually integrate the pond into the landscape and 2) To
protect the liner from damaging UV rays that can weaken it over time.
Tip: Stones of numerous shapes and colors are often included in
Japanese gardens, where they represent water flowing from the
mountains, islands in the sea or the transition from sea to land.
•
Once the entire border is in place, remove two of the flagstones to create
an open area (figure B) that can be filled with soft grasses during the
planting phase (featured in the next episode).
Tip: Creating an opening in the border also makes filter and pond
maintenance easier.
•
Finally, add shims -- small pieces of rock -- beneath the edges of the
flagstone pieces to elevate their edges and make them more level (figure
C).
•
The finished result is the beginning of a picturesque, serene water garden
that adds beauty, character and dimension to the property (figure D).
OTHER EDGING METHODS
For most Installations having a necklace of stone around the pond or water
garden does not create a natural appearance. If your
goal is to make your pond blend into the landscape in a
natural setting then you will want to consider other
methods of edging the pond.
Besides the traditional method of edging with a thin
stone on the edge overlapping the pond you can also
use one or more layers of stone built up from the shelf.
This provides a more natural appearance and will allow
the water to fluctuate without seeing the liner. You can
also create a cobblestone beach edging by placing a
large stone at the inside of a large shallow shelf and
filling the area with gravel and cobbles.
You can naturalize this area by planting shallow water
plants. This will create a more natural edge with plants
partly in and partly out of the water. You can plant bare
root plants directly into the gravel or place the plant with
some soil still attached into the gravel. This will help the
plant to establish quicker.
GENERAL MAINTENANCE
While inspecting your pond, also take some time to think about the variables that
affect your pond as an ecosystem. Like all other types of ecosystems, ponds will
be affected by local climate and seasonal variations. Some examples of these
environmental influences include: greater leaf inputs from vegetation in the fall,
possible freezes in the winter, and increased biological filter load in the spring
time. Fluctuations such as these and other environmental variables will influence
your maintenance load. Here are some ecological variables to take note of and to
keep in mind:
•
Determine what the climate of your region is. Does your pond freeze in the
wintertime? Are summer temperatures so extreme that evaporation losses
are plentiful? How do the different seasons affect your pond?
•
Determine the amount and types of vegetation both within and
surrounding the pond. Is surrounding vegetation deciduous or evergreen?
How much leaf fall gets into your pond? Is your pond mostly for keeping
plants? Are surrounding tree roots affecting the pond shell?
•
Is your pond typically in full sun, partial sun, or is it well shaded?
•
Determine the fish load of your pond. What kind of fish do you have? Is
your pond stocked with mostly koi, goldfish, mosquitofish, or some other
types of fish?
•
How is the water quality of the tap water of your region? Is the tap water
treated with chlorine or chloramines? Is your pond fed by spring water?
•
Do predators such as raccoons and herons visit your pond?
•
Does your pond receive any water runoff from the yard after rainfall or
yard irrigation?
•
Take note of any other kind of environmental variable that you may think
affects the ecosystem of your pond.
Now that you have taken some time to inspect your pond and its ecology, let us
now focus on the actual task of maintenance. The first duty that needs to be
addressed from a maintenance standpoint is general debris removal. Leaf fall
and fish wastes are the main sources of debris inputs and they are most
efficiently removed by a combination of netting and filtration. Without this
combination, a pond will begin to accumulate debris in the form of organic
sludge, which can allow unwelcome anaerobic bacteria to proliferate. On top of
which, debris buildup can also clog pumps, filters, and plumbing which will
minimize water and dissolved oxygen flow through the system.
Netting out of debris is optimally performed by
using skimming nets for the floating leaves
and deeper leaf rakes for floating and sunken
debris. Ponds can also be equipped with
surface skimmers that can automatically
remove floating debris that become trapped in
their intakes. If your pond is equipped with a
skimmer, be sure to keep the intake basket
clear of debris to keep it functioning properly. It is also advised to trim the dead
leaves and flowers off of surrounding and internal vegetation to keep your pond
looking good and debris levels down.
Well-designed ponds are also equipped with various types of filters to help deal
with smaller debris inputs. There are three types of filters: mechanical, biological,
and chemical, and all work to improve the quality and clarity of your pond water.
These filters need to have a good supply of water flowing through them in order
to function properly. To ensure this good flow, make sure that the pump intake or
settling chambers are kept free from debris. Once supplied with ample flow, your
filters can function optimally with the mechanical filters trapping larger debris,
biological filters converting dissolved fish wastes, and chemical filters helping to
trap dissolved impurities.
Due to the overwhelming variety of filters that exist, steps to maintain these
different types of filters can only be generalized at best. It will eventually be up to
your inspection of your filtration system to determine the best course of
maintaining them. The filtration media within all of the filter types will help to
prevent larger debris from flowing back into the pond with their different media
types.
Over time, debris will begin to collect in these filters, which will need to be
removed in order to keep the system functional. If the filter media is padding,
cartridges, or some other type of easily removable media, take it out of the
housing and rinse off the collected debris. Submersible pond filters should be
maintained the same way by being rinsed outside of the pond. Filters with
smaller media such as rock or beads, will need to be back-washed in order to be
cleaned. Pressurized filters typically have a valve that performs this function
while the non-pressurized variety needs to be back-washed manually. If you do
have a non-pressurized, external, small media filter in your system, be sure to
reverse the flow and manually stir up the media to help prevent circulating water
from channeling. Make sure that none of the rinsed off debris gets back into the
pond.
Remember to also replace the media within the filters once they appear to longer
be functioning. Signs of media needing to be replaced will be obvious when it
seems as if the media gets clogged too rapidly or media is falling apart. Chemical
filter media will also need to be replaced at regular intervals depending upon the
media type. Consult your local garden pond specialist for recommended media
change intervals for your particular filter.
As mentioned before, it is critical for the filters to receive adequate flow in order
to perform their functions. Most typically, circulation pumps provide that flow, and
they are located either within or outside of the pond. Each type has their own
advantages and disadvantages, but the out of pond variety are relatively much
easier to maintain when equipped with an intake basket. These baskets not only
hold more debris than most submersible pump intake screens, but can also be
more easily accessed for debris removal. Removal of debris from either type of
intake can be done manually for the larger particles, and with a hose for smaller
ones.
Another aspect of pond maintenance that needs to be
focused upon is the aesthetic and functional
consequences of some key environmental inputs.
Ponds that are full of nutrients from fish wastes and
organic debris can potentially break out in a green
algal bloom. This is more typical of a newer pond or a
pond without biological filtration, but it can be
remedied by other means if need be. Installation of an
ultra-violet clarifier can control such an outbreak, but periodic maintenance to
replace the bulb will be necessary. However, these clarifiers do not do anything
about the filamentous, or hairy algae, which typically is found on the base of
waterfalls. This type of algae must be removed manually with a brush, stick, or
some other sort of tool to twirl it out with.
One final item to consider is the health of your
fish. Your fish live in your pond and rely on you
to perform maintenance and to take care of
them. Ponds with fish need to be equipped with
a biological filter to help convert the toxins that
they excrete and these filters need to be
maintained in the way mentioned earlier. On top
of which, you will need to feed them and keep
an eye on them to make sure that they are
healthy.
Fish should be fed less in colder months than in warmer months and their diets
are seasonally dependent. Foods high in protein should only be used in warmer
months where as a low-protein diet should be used in colder months. Testing
your water on a somewhat regular basis will also
allow you to make sure that the pond water is
safe for your fish. Make sure that ammonia and
nitrite levels are low to non-existent, test for pH,
and monitor your fish for any signs of infection.
Be sure to also treat any incoming fill water from
your tap if there is any chlorine or chloramines in
it. Your local pond specialist or fish store can
further address any of the health concerns you
may have for your fish.
As you can see, all of the maintenance tasks mainly consist of debris removal
from within the pond and its internal components. By regularly netting out larger
debris, trimming decaying aquatic plant matter,
and filtering and removing small and dissolved
particles, your pond should remain aesthetically
pleasing and fully functional. Your maintenance
load, i.e. amount of debris inputs, will vary
depending upon various environmental
influences, and so it is best to adjust your
approach accordingly. Overall, keep in mind
that the task of maintenance is an easy one as
long as it is performed regularly. In return, the
process will benefit all who visit the pond and your fish will love you for it.
SEASONAL MAINTENANCE
SPRING
As spring approaches, here is a list of pond care suggestions to help get your
pond off to a healthy start for the spring and summer growing season.
•
Increase water circulation.
•
Start feeding your fish again when the water temperature reaches a
constant 50 degrees.
If there has been an accumulation of leaves and other debris over the winter you
should remove this now. Leaves can be removed with a skimmer type net that
has a square end that allows you to push this across the bottom of the pond
scooping up the leaves.
You can also use the Leaf Eater Vac or MiniVac for smaller ponds and small
leaves to vacuum the leaves from the bottom of the pond. These devices use
fresh water from your garden hose to create the suction. You could also try to
use a shop vac but this removes a lot of water in the process and may not be the
best choice. If there are lots of leaves and sludge accumulated in the pond to the
point that you cannot remove this easily a complete pond cleaning may be
necessary. A complete cleaning will upset the balance of the pond and actually
interfere with algae control but should you decide to go this route you can use the
following method.
Pump water from the pond into a large tub or other container. The exact size will
depend on the number and size of fish that you have but should be as large as
possible.
It may be necessary to cover the container with leaf netting or something similar
to keep the fish from jumping out especially if you have koi. This container should
be in the shade if it is hot out.
Continue pumping the water out of the pond until it just covers the fish. Use a fish
net to catch the fish and place them in the container with the water just pumped
from the pond. Also the plants can be removed if repotting is necessary or left in
the pond. If removed they should be kept in the shade and covered with damp
newspaper. Underwater plants should be kept in a container of water.
After you pump as much water out of the pond with your pump as you can, you
will want to use a shop vac to finish up or you can use a large dustpan and
broom with a bucket to finish removing the sludge. Do not try to scrub the velvet
type algae that may coat the liner as this is beneficial. Do not use any
chemicals.
After the pond is clean you can pump the water with the fish into the pond and
then put the fish back into the pond. Add a dechlorinator to remove the chlorine
and slowly add water from the hose to finish filling the pond. The plants can be
placed back into the pond during the filling process. After the pump and filter are
turned back on it is a good idea to add bacteria such as Biological Clarifier, BioFilter Booster, Microbe-Lift PL, or Microbe-Lift Spring/Summer Cleaner,
to help in establishing the balance of the pond. Acclimate fish.
•
Fertilize each plant and place at appropriate depth. Lilies and Lotus should
be fertilized every 3-4 weeks, marginals every 5-7 weeks.
•
Add Anacharis to prevent algae growth. Use one bunch per one sq. ft. of
surface area for ponds under 50 sq. ft. and one bunch per two or three sq.
ft. for ponds over 51 to 200 sq. ft. For ponds over 200 sq. ft. use one
bunch for every three to four sq. ft.
•
Turn on Ultraviolet sterilizer after the biological filter is working properly
and the water starts to turn slightly green.
•
Add Pond Pond-Zyme or Microbe-Lift PL (these products contain bacteria
to help jump-start biological filters and break down sludge).
•
Divide and repot plants as needed.
•
Add floaters such as water hyacinth and water lettuce (late spring after
danger of frost has passed).
•
A few things you may need: Fish net, Dechlorinator, Biological Clarifier,
Anacharis, no-hole aquatic plant containers, Aquatic Plant Soil, gravel, fish
food, and a thermometer.
SUMMER
•
Remember to continue fertilizing your plants.
•
Remove dead foliage from the pond.
•
Feed your fish well.
•
Maximize your aeration.
AUTUMN/WINTER
One of the most significant events of Fall is, of course, when leaves begin to fall
from the trees above. If these leaves get in the pond and decay it will throw off
the ecological balance of a water garden. One option is to use a net to skim
leaves off the surface of the pond as they fall, but this can be a daily chore. Also,
don't expect a skimmer type filter to get the leaves. Skimmers are designed to
get the occasional leaf or other floating debris. Heavy leaf fall can clog a skimmer
several times a day. Installing leaf netting over the pond will be easier to
maintain.
It is best to try to minimize the amount of accumulated sludge, decaying plant
debris, etc. from the water. This can be done with a net, by siphon, or by use of a
pond vacuum, like the Mini-Vac or the Leaf-Eater.
FISH
The water temperature is dropping now and we should be feeding our fish less
as their metabolism slows down. Hopefully you have been feeding your fish well
with a high protein food this summer to allow them to build up a reserve of fat to
help them through the winter.
After the water temperature drops to the sixties you should decrease the amount
of food given and feed only once a day. Provide food with a protein content of 25
to 32 percent. A wheat germ based food is good at this time as it is easily
digested. Pond Care's Spring & Autumn Food is an excellent food at this time of
year. It is formulated with a unique blend of amino acids and minerals to help
supplement the dietary requirements of koi and goldfish in cool water.
As the water temperatures continue to drop to below 60 degrees you should feed
only two or three times a week. It can take your fish two or three days to digest
food at this temperature.
Once the temperature drops below 50 degrees you should stop feeding
altogether until spring when the water temperature remains above 50.
As organics decompose in the pond they can produce toxic gases that could be
trapped in the pond if it is covered by ice for more than a few days. It is important
to keep at least a small area free of ice so that these gases can escape. Do not
break the ice as the shock waves created can damage or kill your fish. One of
the easiest ways to do this is with a floating pond de-icer. This device floats in the
pond and has a built in thermostat to turn the heating element on when the water
temperature drops below 40 degrees. They can also be used to keep a small
pond from freezing solid allowing you to keep your fish alive.
With their slower metabolism and the absence of plants our fish are more
susceptible to predation by raccoons, birds and other animals. If you took our
advice and added leaf netting to keep the leaves out of your pond this should
protect your fish as well. A Koi Kastle will help your fish be more comfortable by
providing a place for them to hide. One of the most effective methods of keeping
predators away from the pond at any time of the year is the ScareCrow. This
device senses movement with a motion detector and sprays any intruder with a
burst of water frightening them off.
PLANTS
You should have stopped feeding your plants by now. As the foliage on your
hardy plants begins to die back you should remove any dead and dying leaves
and place the plant deep enough in the pond to keep the roots from freezing.
While it is true that some marginal plants will survive even if their roots freeze
solid it is best to lower all of your plants below the ice zone.
If your pond is too small or shallow to offer protection from freezing temperatures
then you still have other options. You can add a floating deicer, which will keep
the pond above freezing. If your pond is not too large and does not contain any
fish you can place a cover such as plywood over the pond and cover this with
bags of leaves or bales of straw to provide insulation. A tarp should also be
placed over the straw to keep it dry to provide better insulation. A basement can
provide protection if you remove the plants and store them either in their original
containers or in peat moss. A method that I like is to build a temporary shelter
over the pond.
Lumber or PVC pipe can be used to construct a framework over the pond. Place
clear plastic over this and weight the plastic down with soil or stone. This frame
should hold the plastic a few feet above the water. Greenhouse type plastic is
best but construction grade plastic should last the winter. This method works very
well and is basically like moving the pond to one USDA hardiness zone higher.
On clear days the sun warms the water and even if covered with snow there is
good insulation over the pond. Some tropicals can be wintered over this way in
mild winters even if you live in zone 6 or 7.
Some plants do not like being submerged in the pond through the winter. Iris
ensata formerly know as Iris kaempferi a Japanese Iris should be removed from
the pond and planted in the yard until spring when new growth starts and it can
be placed back in the pond for the summer. Lobelia cardinalis (Cardinal Flower)
should be removed from the pond and planted in the yard for the winter.
This plant should have a few inches of mulch over it as well. You will have more
success wintering over Cannas if you remove the rhizomes from the pot and
store in slightly damp peat in a basement or other cool area. Some tropical water
lilies will bloom all winter if kept in a tub container inside and given at least six
hours of bright light. You can also winter them over by removing the tuber from
the pot after the foliage has died back from a freeze. Place the tuber in a
container of slightly damp sand or peat moss at 50 degrees. In the spring you will
need to heat the tuber in an aquarium to about 75 degrees to trigger its growth
before moving outside.
One choice with tropical plants is simply to dispose of them after freezing
weather and replace them in the spring. This way you get to try new plants and
colors next season. If you want to try wintering over your tropical plants there are
a few methods worth trying.
Many tropical plants can be brought inside and treated as a houseplant for the
winter. Umbrella Palm, Taros, and Calla Lilies will do very well with medium light
levels. If these are in no-hole containers then no special care is needed
otherwise keeping the pots in a tray full of water is needed to keep the plants
wet. Water hyacinths and water lettuce require more care than they are worth; it
is much easier and less expensive to replace them each spring. If you still want
to make the effort they require 10 hours of intense light and temperatures above
70 degrees.
PUMPS AND FILTERS
Depending on your climate and other factors you may or may not want to run
your pump and filter system through the winter. If you live in a climate with
temperatures mostly well above freezing then it will be to your advantage to keep
your pump and filter running through the winter. The bacteria in your biological
filter will not be active at low temperatures but it will remain alive as long as you
keep it supplied with oxygen-laden water. When spring arrives and the water
temperature is rising the bacteria can start to work immediately keeping the water
quality good for your fish and helping to control the algae.
Should you choose to run your filter through the winter it is a good idea to
minimize the water circulation in order to take advantage of the layering effect of
the water. (Water temperature is densest at 39 degrees and the water on the
bottom of the pond will remain at this temperature even with freezing
temperatures on the surface.) Some ways to minimize circulation is to turn off
bottom drains if possible, place intakes to pumps/filters at mid-water, turn off
surface skimmers, (you do not want to circulate top or bottom water in the
winter), place your intakes closer to the outlets in the pond (waterfall or fountain),
and or turn the pump down.
These actions will allow the biological filters to stay alive without interfering with
the layering of the water. Massive circulation of water in the winter can super chill
the water by exposing warmer pond water to below freezing temperatures
leading to the death of the fish. One problem with running a pump and filter in the
winter is the potential of major damage to your filter and plumbing system if the
power goes off for extended periods and you are not at home to make sure that
no water is present in the filter and plumbing. If water is allowed to freeze in
plumbing, UV's and filters this can lead to breakage requiring replacement of
these units. If your system is designed to allow the water to flow back into the
pond in the event of a power outage then these problems can be averted. If you
have a check valve installed in your system you can use a long piece of small
tubing or wire to hold the valve open to allow the water to drain out.
You can turn off the pumps and filters for the winter. Cold water holds much more
oxygen than warm water and the fish's respiration is slow therefore you should
not need the circulation and aeration. The bacteria in your biological filter does
not work in cold temperatures so the only reason to run the filter is to keep the
bacteria alive. If you turn off the pump and filter for the winter be sure to drain all
plumbing.
External filters, UV's, and external pumps will need to be drained. Submersible
pumps should be left in the pond or in a bucket of water in a warm place to keep
the seals from drying out. If you choose this method be sure to clean the filter
before starting up in the spring. With the absence of biological filtration you may
want to add Microbe-Lift's new Autumn Prep which contains bacteria that will
work in near freezing temperatures and it also contains enzymes that consume
cellulose in the form of leaves.
AUTUMN/WINTER CHECK LIST
•
Before the leaves begin to fall, cover your pond with one of several sizes
of leaf netting. (It is much easier to keep the leaves out than to remove
them after they fall into the pond)
•
This is a good time to divide some types of aquatic plants (water lilies and
iris)
•
Remove tropicals from the pond as they will decay and pollute the water.
•
After your hardy plants have stopped growing, cut back the foliage and
lower the pot to the bottom of the pond.
•
Stop feeding your fish after the water temperature has dropped to the mid
to upper forties.
•
Also when the water temperature has dropped into the forties, reduce the
circulation of the pond water by either turning off the pump for the winter
and draining of all the plumbing or preferably by placing the pump or the
intake to the pump closer to the water outlet (waterfall etc.) and pick up
water from mid-level of the pond. Also turn down the water flow. Keeping
the water flowing through your biological filter allows the bacteria to live
therefore giving good water quality early in the spring.
•
If you keep your filter running through the winter, you must take
precautions against the freezing of water in your plumbing should
there be a power outage.
•
You can add a floating de-icer to keep an area free of ice. This opening is
necessary during periods of ice cover to allow an exchange of gases.
Water Hawthorns are a nice addition to the pond and sometimes bloom
through the ice. They grow and bloom fall through spring and go dormant
in the summer.
•
POND PLANTS
If we want a pond for keeping ornamental fish or for having the sound of running
water then a water garden in the shade is fine, however if one of our major
reasons for having a pond is to be able to grow all of those glorious water lilies
and other luscious plants then we want as much sun as possible. Sometimes we
have no choice but to place our ponds in areas of little or no sunshine, or
perhaps the pond was placed in the shade before the importance of sun was
realized. For those situations, our plant choices may be limited but beauty can
still be obtained.
Most aquatic plants require at least 4 - 6 hours of direct sun to flourish, there are
however, several varieties of water lily, marginal, and floating plants that will do
well in partial shade (3 - 4 hours of direct sun).
WHAT ARE THEY?
Water garden pond plants breathe somewhat differently to us. Typical pond
plants breathe in carbon dioxide during the day (and breathe oxygen out) Pond
plants breathe in oxygen during the night (and breathe carbon dioxide out). All
garden pond plants behave as follows in a pond and are thus able to add real
value to that environment:
•
Garden pond plants convert carbon dioxide in the atmosphere to oxygen
in the water and use this carbon dioxide to produce energy in the form of
sugars - photosynthesis.
•
All pond plants consume nitrogen chemicals (mainly nitrates and
phosphates) that build up in the water. Watercress is often used for this
purpose.
•
Garden pond plants have a limited filtering effect.
•
Some pond plants are particularly good at oxygenating the pond water
•
Select plants for around a pond to blend in with the garden pond. Refer to
the diagram in the aquatic plants link above left to see a diagram that will
help you decide on plants for around a pond.
It is recommended that you plant aquatic plants in Fabric Pond Pots or no-hole
plastic containers to minimize maintenance. Use a heavy clay loam (not potting
soil) or a packaged soil specific for aquatic plants. Using the wrong type of soil
can cause numerous problems. Most aquatics require at least 5 hours of direct
sunlight for optimum growth. Do not cover the growing point of water lilies with
soil or gravel.
TYPES
Tropical Water Lilies
Day and night blooming- tropical water lilies should be planted in pots at least 10"
in diameter (a smaller container will result in a smaller plant). A 2-5 gallon size
should suffice for each lily. Fill the pot 1/2 full with a loam garden soil and add 2-4
fertilizer tablets, then continue to fill the pot to about 2 inches from the top. The
tuber should be set upright with the roots buried gently in the soil. Make sure the
tip of the tuber is not buried. Next, add an inch or two of pea gravel or sand in
order to prevent the soil from escaping from the container. Remember to keep
the gravel away from the crown of the tuber.
The plant can now be lowered into the water to a depth of approximately 6 inches
over the crown of the water lily. As the plant grows, it can be lowered to a depth
of 12 inches. Tropical water lilies cannot tolerate cold temperatures and should
not be planted until the water temperature reaches at least 70 degrees. Planting
too early can cause dormancy and restrict the potential growth of the plant.
Tropicals bloom from late spring through early fall, depending on the weather.
Fertilizer tablets should be added every 3-4 weeks.
ALBERT GREENBURG WATER LILY
•
•
•
•
•
•
Hardy Zones: 10-11
Planting Depth: 6-18" over crown.
Spread: 4-6 square feet.
Foliage: Heavily mottled leaves.
Sunlight: Tolerates partial shade.
Flower: Rosy yellow cup-shaped bloom.
ANTARES WATER LILY (NIGHT BLOOMER)
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•
•
•
•
•
AUGUST KOCH WATER LILY
Hardy Zones: 10-11
Planting Depth: 6-18" over crown.
Spread: 6+ square feet.
Foliage: Dark bronze leaves.
Sunlight: 5-6 hours of direct sun.
Flower: Large magenta red cup-shaped blooms
with a pungent fragrance. Night Blooming.
•
•
•
•
•
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Hardy Zones: 10-11
Planting Depth: 6-18" over crown.
Spread: 4-6 square feet.
Foliage: Large green leathery leaves,
viviparous.
Sunlight: 5-6 hours of direct sun.
Flower: Rich blue blossoms, pleasant
fragrance.
BAGDAD WATER LILY
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•
•
•
•
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Hardy Zones: 10-11
Planting Depth: 6-18" over crown.
Spread: 4-6 square feet.
Foliage: Green leaves with mottling,
viviparous.
Sunlight: 4-6 hours of direct sun.
Flower: Light blue blooms, sweet fragrance.
BLUE BEAUTY WATER LILY
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•
•
•
•
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Hardy Zones: 10-11
Planting Depth: 6-18" over crown.
Spread: 4-6+ square feet.
Foliage: Large dark green foliage.
Sunlight: 4-6 hours of direct sun.
Flower: Very large sky blue blooms, sweet
fragrance.
DIRECTOR MOORE WATER LILY
Hardy Zones: 10-11
Planting Depth: 6-18" over crown.
Spread: 4-6 square feet.
Foliage: Many small green pads flecked with
purple.
• Sunlight: 4-6 hours of direct sun.
• Flower: Deep violet-blue star-shaped blooms,
delightful fragrance.
GREEN SMOKE WATER LILY
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•
•
•
•
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•
•
•
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Hardy Zones: 10-11
Planting Depth: 6-18" over crown.
Spread: 4-6 square feet.
Foliage: Pads are green with bronze flecks and
a wavy edge.
Sunlight: 4-6 hours of direct sun.
Flower: Petals are chartreuse to light smoky
blue, pleasant fragrance.
ISLAMORADA WATER LILY
Hardy Zones: 10-11
Planting Depth: 12-15" over crown.
Spread: 4-6 square feet.
Foliage: Bright green leaves.
Sunlight: 3-6 hours of direct sun.
Flower: Unique flowers are purple speckled with
white.
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MARIAN STRAWN WATER LILY
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Hardy Zones: 10-11
Planting Depth: 6-18" over crown.
Spread: 4-6+ square feet.
Foliage: Green pads.
Sunlight: 4-6 hours of direct sun.
Flower: Large white blooms, multi-flowering,
lovely fragrance.
MS. EMILY GRANT HUTCHINGS WATER LILY
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Hardy Water Lilies
Hardy Zones: 10-11
Planting Depth: 6-18" over crown.
Spread: 4-6+ square feet.
Foliage: Bronzy green pads.
Sunlight: 4-6 hours of direct sun.
Flower: Large cup-shaped dark pink blooms,
slight fragrance. Night Blooming.
Hardy water lilies are planted in much the same way as the tropicals using a
loam garden soil and 2-3 fertilizer tablets. Hardy lilies grow horizontally across
the container so a wide pot is necessary for planting (a 14" or 16" fabric pot is the
best container). The rhizome should be planted at one edge of the container with
the rhizome planted at an angle of about 45 degrees with the crown exposed.
Top with an inch or two of pea gravel or sand.
The plant can be lowered to a depth of 6 inches to begin with, and then lowered
to a depth of 12 - 18 inches as the plant grows. Hardy lilies should be planted in
early spring and should be fertilized every 4-6 weeks. They bloom from June
through September depending on the weather, and become dormant during the
colder months. As spring approaches, growth will begin again.
ATTRACTION WATER LILY
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Hardy Zones: 3-11
Planting Depth: 12-15" over crown.
Spread: 6+ square feet.
Foliage: New leaves bronze turning to green.
Sunlight: 4-6 hours of direct sun.
Flower: Deep red inner petals with paler outer
petals.
BARBARA DOBBINS WATER LILY
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BERIT STRAWN WATER LILY
Hardy Zones: 3-11
Planting Depth: 12-15" over crown.
Spread: 4-6 square feet.
Foliage: Dark green leaves speckled with
brown.
Sunlight: 6-8 hours of direct sun.
Flower: Beautiful cup-shaped, peach colored
blooms.
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Hardy Zones: 3-11
Planting Depth: 8-12" over crown.
Spread: 1-2 square feet (great for tub gardens).
Foliage: Heavily mottled green leaves.
Sunlight: 4-6 hours of direct sun.
Flower: Small orange-yellow.
CHARLENE STRAWN WATER LILY
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Hardy Zones: 3-11
Planting Depth: 12-15" over crown.
Spread: 6+ square feet.
Foliage: Round green leaves.
Sunlight: 4-6 hours of direct sun.
Flower: Rich yellow inner petals with lighter
yellow outer petals.
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Hardy Zones: 3-11
Planting Depth: 12-15" over crown.
Spread: 4-6 square feet.
Foliage: New leaves mottled fading to green.
Sunlight: 6-8 hours of direct sun.
Flower: Salmon colored with a long blooming
season.
COLORADO WATER LILY
COMANCHE WATER LILY
Hardy Zones: 3-11
Planting Depth: 10-15" over crown.
Spread: 2-3 square feet.
Foliage: New leaves bronze turning to green.
Sunlight: 4-6 hours of direct sun.
Flower: Changeable, yellow-apricot changing
to gold orange changing to deep orange
FABIOLA WATER LILY
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Hardy Zones: 3-11
Planting Depth: 12-15" over crown.
Spread: 4-6 square feet.
Foliage: New leaves bronze turning to green.
Sunlight: 6-8 hours of direct sun.
Flower: Cup shaped pink blooms.
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Hardy Zones: 3-11
Planting Depth: 10-15" over crown.
Spread: 1-2 square feet (great for tub gardens).
Foliage: Green with purple blotches.
Sunlight: 4-6 hours of direct sun.
Flower: Changeable, apricot to apricot-orange
to deep orange-red.
INDIANA WATER LILY
JAMES BRYDON WATER LILY
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Hardy Zones: 3-11
Planting Depth: 12-15" over crown.
Spread: 2-4 square feet.
Foliage: Bronzy green leaves.
Sunlight: 4-6 hours of direct sun.
Flower: Deep red cup shaped blossoms.
JOEY TOMOCIK WATER LILY
Hardy Zones: 3-11
Planting Depth: 12-15" over crown.
Spread: 4-6 square feet.
Foliage: Green, softly mottled leaves.
Sunlight: 6-8 hours of direct sun.
Flower: Vivid lemon yellow blooms held above
the surface of the water.
Marginal (Shallow Water) Plants
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Marginal plants should be planted in individual containers of approximately 1-3
gallons. The marginal plants which are grown in 2 " net pots should be planted
without removing the net pot so as not to damage the roots. Plant as you would
the lilies in a loam garden soil, but when adding fertilizer tablets, use 1 tablet for
each gallon of soil. These plants should be fertilized about every 6-8 weeks.
Marginal plants should be lowered to a depth of only 2-3 inches. They grow out
of the water and are usually found at the water's edge.
ARROW ARUM
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Hardy zones 5 - 9
Growing height: 12-24".
Planting depth: Top of the pot should be 0-5"
below the water surface.
Thrives in full sun to shade.
White arum-like flower in summer.
Arrow-shaped leaves that produce arum-like
flowers give this plant its name.
ARROWHEAD
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Hardy zones 5 - 11
Growing height: 18-24".
Planting depth: Top of pot should be 0-4" below
the water surface.
Thrives in full sun to partial shade.
White flowers in summer.
This plant's arrow shaped leaves can grow up
to 18" long.
BACOPA
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BLUE PICKEREL RUSH
Hardy zones 6 - 9
Growing height: 4-8".
Planting depth: Top of the pot should be 0-6"
below the water surface.
Thrives in full sun to partial shade.
Pale blue flowers all summer.
Small glossy leaves emit a fragrance like
eucalyptus.
Also known as: Lemon Bacopa, Water Hyssop.
Hardy zones 3 - 11
Growing height: 18-30".
Planting depth: Top of the pot should be 0-6"
below the water surface.
Thrives in full sun to partial shade.
Blue flowers spring through fall.
Glossy heart-shaped leaves are highlighted by
blue flower spikes. Long blooming season. This
is one of the most popular plants in a water
garden.
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BUTTERFLY GINGER
Hardy zones 5 - 10
Growing height: 4-5'.
Planting depth: Top of the pot should be 0-5"
below the water surface.
Thrives in full sun to partial shade.
White flowers in late summer.
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CANNA
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Hardy zones 5 - 11
Growing height: 5-6'.
Planting depth: Top of the pot should be 0-10"
below water surface.
Thrives in full sun to partial shade.
Small clusters of violet flowers are held high
above the foliage in summer.
Floating Plants
These plants require no planting. Simply place them in the water and they will
grow. Many floating plants desire tropical temperatures and cannot tolerate a
frost.
BUTTERFLY FERN
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Hardy Floating plant (per portion)
One portion equals approximately 1/2 cup.
Makes a good fish treat.
FAIRY MOSS
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Hardy Floating plant (per portion)
One portion equals approximately 1/2 cup.
Makes a good fish treat.
FROG BIT
Underwater Plants
All ponds should have underwater plants to aid in maintaining clean and pure
water. These plants help prevent algae growth. These plants can be potted in
one-gallon containers with pea gravel to hold them in place or they can be
weighted and dropped to the bottom. Completely submerge these plants to a
depth of at least 12 inches.
ANACHARIS
This Underwater Plant reduces algae's food source.
Lily-Like Aquatics
These plants grow similar to water lilies. They are rooted in a pot several inches
under the water but the foliage grows to the surface and floats. Pot the same way
as tropical water lilies except most are much smaller and only need a one gallon
pot or an 8" x 10" fabric pot. Use one fertilizer tablet every 4 - 6 weeks. Lower the
container to 6 to 12 inches of water over the top of the pot. Some of these are
hardy and will winter over; others are tropical and are treated as tropicals.
VARIEGATED FOUR-LEAF CLOVER
Hardy zones 6 - 11
Planting depth: 6-18".
Full sun to shade.
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WATER HAWTHORNE
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Hardy zones 6 - 9.
Planting depth: 6-18".
Full sun to partial shade.
Dormant in summer, white flowers in fall and spring.
YELLOW FLOATING HEART
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Hardy zones 5 - 10
Planting depth: 12-24"
Needs full sun.
POND FISH
Fish bring both color and movement to your water garden. They also keep the
mosquito population in check. Start with just a few fish; then gradually add more.
Goldfish and koi are particularly popular because they are large, colorful fish that
are highly visible from above. They are easily trained to take food from your
hand. They grow quickly, are generally pest-free, and come in many bright,
cheerful colors.
Stocking a pond requires careful planning. Fish can’t tolerate the chemicals
commonly found in municipal water supplies, so you’ll need to neutralize these
chemicals before introducing fish to the pond. Also, choose fish with your climate
and pool size in mind. Certain species fare better in certain climates and pool
depths than in others.
KOI VARIETIES
Below is a chart differentiating the various classifications of koi, allowing you to
learn a little bit about them.
KOI HEALTH
This is a very brief guide to some common koi diseases; it is in no way a
substitute for a good book on the subject or professional help. Unless specifically
stated most of these problems can be treated using commercial remedies, which
state what they are for on the packaging. Ask the dealer for advice if you don't
know which one to buy.
Sliminess of the skin. A grayish white film of excess mucus on the body. This
is a reaction to protozoan parasites, notably Ichthyobodo, Trichodina and
Chilodonella. Other symptoms of infection by these parasites are scratching and
leaping followed by lethargy and failure to eat. Further risks are secondary
bacterial and fungal infections of wounds caused by scratching. The parasites
are particularly active in spring when koi are still recovering from winter.
White spot (Ich). Caused by Ichthyopthirius multifiliis. The white spots on the
skin, gills and fins are individual protozoan cells that are under the skin and feed
on the body fluids and cells. They then punch out of the skin and fall to the
bottom of the pond, collect together and begin breeding, the offspring then
reinfest the fish. As well as white spots symptoms are scratching and swimming
into the water inlet, failure to feed and lethargy. It is fatal if untreated. Fortunately
commercial white spot remedies are widely available.
Anchor worm. Crustacean parasite, Lernaea . The juvenile stages settle in the
gills of koi, when they mature they mate and the male leaves the koi, the fertilized
female settles on the body of the koi and continues to grow, becoming the
familiar worm shape. The female buries into the skin and underlying tissue to
hold on. The damage caused can become a target for bacterial or fungal
infection, which can spread.
Fish lice. Argulus another crustacean parasite, round and up to 1cm wide. They
have a sucker to hold on to the koi with needlelike mouthparts which they stick
into the koi and inject a toxin. This causes intense irritation to the koi and they
scratch and jump and can cause bacterial infection. If they infect the gills they
cause severe damage and often death. Most antiparasite remedies will not kill
fish lice; a strong chemical is needed which is not freely on sale. Ask a
professional dealer or vet.
Gill maggots. Are the mature females of the parasitic crustacean Ergasilus.
Heavy infestations can cause severe damage, eroding the gill filaments and
allowing secondary infections to develop.
Skin and gill flukes. These are the fish equivalent of fleas. They are two
different types of flukes, but despite of their names both can be found on the
body and the gills, feeding on mucus. They use hooks to hold onto the koi, this
causes irritation and in a weak, sick or stressed koi can become a problem.
Saprolegnia fungus. One of the most common fungal infections of koi. The
fungal spores will grow anywhere on the koi, including the gills, initially
germinating on dead tissue. Their threadlike hyphae release digestive juices that
break down the tissue so the fungus can absorb it, as the fungus grows these
juices start breaking down living tissue. Fungus on the body appears as cotton
wool like growths, it is hard to tell if a koi has it in the gills, but if it hangs at the
surface gulping for air it is likely.
Carp pox. A virus that produces solid waxy lumps on koi. It will not kill koi and is
generally harmless, but can look unsightly. It is most often present in small koi
and in cold weather, clearing up disappearing when koi grow and in the spring
when water temperatures rise.
Finrot and ulcers. A number of bacteria are associated with finrot, lesions and
internal haemorrhaging, notably Aeromonas and Pseudomonas. Ulcers usually
start at the site of an injury, the bacteria then infect it causing further damage,
and fungal infection can also occur. Such holes result in osmoregulatory
problems, leading to damaged kidneys and death if not treated.
It is worth adding a weak salt solution to the pond as well as anti bacterial
remedy, a concentration of 3gm per liter will help to restore the osmotic balance
and reduce strain on the kidneys (make sure that the salt is fully dissolved before
you add it to the pond). Finrot is easily noticeable, the fins and/or tail look
chewed and are red at the edges. Secondary bacterial and fungal infections can
develop.
Cotton wool disease. Another bacterial infection. The common name comes
from the white tufts that develop around the mouth and spread to the body and
fins, often leading to ulcers and a thin appearance. Flexibacter is the bacterium,
which causes this disease. Treatment with anti bacterial medicine is usually
effective.
Dropsy. Raised scales (rather like a pine cone) and eyes standing out from the
head. A sign of a number of conditions may be congenital heart or kidney failure
or an internal bacterial infection. Bacterial dropsy is infectious so treat with an
anti bacterial remedy and if possible isolate affected koi.
FEEDING
Little and often is the best rule to follow when
feeding koi. Koi will always take more than they
could comfortably eat which can cause them to
become unwell. Overfeeding will also lead to an
increase in ammonia and nitrite which if
unchecked could be fatal. Also, koi become
bolder and tamer if they have worked up a bit of
an appetite and will then hand feed.
It is best to feed koi a properly balanced commercial koi food, which will have the
right amount of nutrients, protein, fat, vitamins etc. In winter koi should not be fed
if it is below 10 degrees C as the food may not be digested and go rancid in the
koi's stomach. Wheat germ food is the best
food for winter as it is highly digestible and
therefore less likely to cause problems. In the
spring a higher protein food can be fed so the
koi's body can repair itself and start to grow. In
the summer, when it is more than 20 degrees C
a high protein growth food can be used.
Certain foods can be fed to koi to enhance their color. There are proprietary
brands with various additives such as carotene or spiraling. Carotene affects the
red pigmentation and if used at a high concentration will even turn the white to
pink! Spirulina is a type of algae also enhances the red but won't affect the white.
Koi also enjoy livefoods as treats. They will get
some livefood from grubbing around in the
pond but can also be given foods such as
worms and prawns and even tadpoles. The red
pigment in prawn shells is also a good color
enhancer. Another favorite of koi is lettuce.
Large koi will strip a whole lettuce bare. Brown
bread is another good treat, but if fed too much can make them fat.
BREEDING
It is not possible to sex koi which are less than about 10" long as they are
sexually immature, and it can still be difficult when they mature as there will be
the odd skinny female and fat male. Generally speaking though, female koi are
plump (due to egg filled ovaries) with smaller pectoral fins and males are
streamlined and more torpedo shaped. Males also develop breeding tubercles on
the head and pectoral fins in the breeding season. These breeding tubercles are
tiny raised spots and are difficult to see, they are occasionally mistaken for white
spot (ichthyopthirius - see health).
Left to their own devices koi (if they are
more than 10-12") will naturally spawn in
the early summer. A water temperature of
about 20C (68F) is ideal and the koi will
spawn 'en masse' (known as flock
spawning). This will produce healthy
offspring but generally poor colors, if you
want to breed good quality fry you should choose the parents and put them in a
separate pond (a kids paddling pool will do) put 2 or 3 males in with one female.
If left in the pond most of the eggs will be eaten, and any fry that do hatch will
usually be eaten too. If you want to save some fry to grow on you will have to
move them to a tank or pond with no adult koi. It is very difficult to collect eggs
that have been randomly distributed in the pond so it is a good idea to use
spawning brushes, which the koi will spawn on. Place the brushes with the eggs
on in the pond/tank you are going to rear the fry in and add 0.2mg/litre malachite
green solution to stop fungus infection. It is preferable to add an airstone, as the
developing eggs need plenty of oxygen. If you are going to filter the tank make
sure the young koi will not be sucked into the pump, you could put a fine net
around it, if you are not going to filter it do regular partial water changes (about
20% of the water).
The day before hatching the eyes in the egg will have a shine to them, soon the
koi will begin to wriggle and in a few hours break out of the egg. At temperatures
of about 20C it will take 3 or 4 days for the eggs to hatch, it will be quicker at
higher temperatures.
It is very important that the fry have plenty of
oxygen at this stage so an airstone is a good idea.
After hatching the fry will stick themselves to the
sides of the tank with a sticky pad on their heads for
2 to 3 days, then they will swim up to the surface
and gulp some air which is forced into the swim
bladder and enables them to swim freely. This is the
time to start feeding them. Hard-boiled egg yolk is a
good food for the first day or so; it has little dietary
value but will increase the size of their stomachs.
Newly hatched brine shrimp are also good, feed these for about a week and then
the fry will be ready to eat special fry food (very fine powdered pellets). When
they get to about half an inch feed them tiny pellets and increase the size of the
pellets as they grow. Remember not to overfeed and check water quality
regularly, fry are very susceptible to high ammonia levels and it is easy to lose
them all if care isn't taken.
GOLDFISH VARIETIES
Common -- These are normally shaped fish. They can grow to be 12 inches and
live 20+ yrs if cared for properly. They are often sold in pet stores as "feeder
fish".
Fantail -- They are usually a shorter fish with double tails and more round bodied.
If they have long fins they are named veiltails.
Comet -- These are more like the common goldfish but with longer fins and
skinnier bodies.
Lionhead (Ranchu) -- These fish do not have a dorsal fin and have a head
growth. They are not long and slender but more circular in shape.
Black Moor -- These fish are double-tailed and have telescope eyes.
Oranda -- A lionhead with a dorsal fin and head growth. They are most
commonly white in color with a red cap (red-capped oranda).
Shubunkin -- These fish are more long bodied and best known for their white
bodies and spots of color in shades of yellow, orange, blue and black.
Pompoms -- Small growths called pompoms grow near their nostrils. These fish
are a variety of colors.
Telescope eyed -- These fish come in a variety of shapes; however, they have
large eyes that stick out similar to a telescope.
Pearl Scale -- They have a fatter shape with a bulging middle and their scales
look as though a white pearl is beneath each one.
Bubble eyed -- They have bubble sacs under each eye. They can be various
colors. They usually are without a dorsal fin.
GOLDFISH HEALTH
As with koi, goldfish can experience any number of health problems. Below is a
list of the most common types.
Parasites. Parasites are by far the most common problem. If the parasites don't
kill the fish the complications they cause will. A salt treatment will kill most (but
not all) of the common parasites known to the ornamental pond. These include:
Ich, Chilodonella, Costia & Trichodina. The parasites that a salt treatment will
NOT kill are Flukes, Fish Lice (Argulus) and Anchor Worm. Parasites are mostly
brought in by new fish that have not been quarantined and treated but can also
be brought in by amphibians such as frogs. Most parasites cannot be seen by
the naked eye and a mucus scraping is necessary to pinpoint the type of parasite
present. If having a mucus scraping performed is impossible, the safest thing to
do is treat the pond as if it had Ich and Flukes.
Bacterial Disease. Bacterial infections often follow a parasitic infestation.
Bacterial diseases can also be brought in by new fish. Infection results when bad
bacteria, such as aeromonas and pseudomonas, build up and attack a fish
whose immunity system is low. It can manifest in several ways. Fin Rot, Mouth
Rot, Ulcers are common forms of the disease. It can also be an internal infection
such as Dropsy or Septicemia.
Toxic Water. If you suspect that anything toxic has been added to your water
immediately do a major (80%) water change and don't forget to de-chlorinate the
new water added. Hold some of the affected water aside for testing or test your
water right away for ammonia, nitrite and pH. Any reading at all of ammonia or
nitrites is not to be taken lightly. Beef up your biological filtration because the
problem will return within a day or two and keep returning until the nitrifying cycle
is in place.
Virus. Viruses are the deadliest and scariest of all fish afflictions because they
kill quickly and complete and often before you even suspect a problem. A new
fish can be a carrier and clean out your entire population of fish. The only cure is
prevention. Quarantine all new fish in a heated environment for at least 2 weeks
before introducing them into your pond. Know the reputation of your fish dealer.
Aeration Problems. Fish breathe dissolved oxygen in the water through their
gills. If water contains inadequate amounts of dissolved oxygen the fish simply
smother. Many water treatments such as potassium permanganate and
AlgaeFix use oxygen when they work. "Oxygenating plants" give off oxygen
during the day but then take it all back at night and on overcast days. Add
aeration whenever treating your pond. Add long-term aeration (such as air
pump, waterfalls, fountains) for ponds that are very still.
FEEDING
Goldfish are classified as cold water fish and
do not need to eat a diet that is high in
protein; however, they will do better with a
diet high in carbohydrates. Goldfish are not
picky eaters; however, the greater the variety
they are offered the more active and colorful
they will become. You should feed your fish
once each day.
Do not overfeed...
Live foods. Daphnia, Brine Shrimp, Tubiflex worms, Meal worms, Wax worms,
Blood worms (I recommend using bloodworms cautiously as they will burrow into
the gravel).
Staple foods. Shrimp pellets, flakes in a variety of types, algae wafers, etc.
Freeze dried foods. Krill, Pacific plankton, brine shrimp, bloodworms, etc.
Frozen foods. Brine shrimp, bloodworms, etc.
Greens and Plants. There are many different types of plants to feed your fish.
Mine have just loved Anacharis. Romaine lettuce is good too.
Now these are only suggestions. I have given my fish pieces of cucumber and
zucchini on a suction cup clip for years, and they absolutely love it. (If you have
snails, they will find it through smelling and sit on it until it is gone.
BRINE SHRIMP
Some of the measurements may look a
little "seat of the pants" but when you are
trying to keep four 4Ft. tanks of goldfish fry
going, plus working full time and writing
society newsletters time to mess around
with weights is scarce.
First you need three containers to actually
hatch the brine shrimp eggs in; I use old plastic sweet jars. These are
approximately 4 inches x 6 inches x 12 inches high. You now require a larger
container to sit these jars in. A plastic toy box or an old fish tank basically any
handy box that will hold water.
Fill the sweet jars up to their shoulders or ¾s the way up if they are straight, with
cold water. My jars contain 4ltrs or 6 pints.
Put the jars in the box and fill up with water until the levels match up.
Set up an aquarium heater put in the box and brings the temperature up until the
jar water is at 80 deg. C.
Set up an air pump and using open air lines with no airstones (it is important not
to use air stones as they will soon clog up and the air produced from them is not
vigorous enough to keep the eggs moving through the water.)
Aerate the water so that it appears to be boiling, add
the salt into one jar. I use 3 Dessertspoons of sea salt,
any salt will do except table salt because of the flow
free additives put into it.
Dissolve the salt and add the brine shrimp eggs, up to
three teaspoons. Do not add more than this for a jar of
this size; adjust the air so that you make sure the eggs
are not settling on the bottom, any that do will not
hatch.
After 24 hours the shrimps can now be harvested. I use an old 2-pint pot and a
plastic funnel. Place the funnel into the top of the pot and using a clean cotton
cloth (handkerchief) line the funnel. Take the jar from the container removing the
air line and let the mixture settle for 5 minutes or so, you should see egg casings
from the hatching rise to the top of the jar and the live shrimps on the bottom
above any unhatched ones.
Move the jar into a position so that you can, using a length of airline, siphon the
live shrimps into the cloth.
You should end up with a red mass of shrimps in
the cloth. Feed these to the fry, they should live in
a tank at 65 deg F. up to 12 hours. I find that if
you experiment you can feed the fry small
amounts at a time so as not to pollute the tank.
Any uneaten is best siphoned out. Obviously put
the jar back in the container if you do not use all
the shrimps at one time.
Once emptied the jar is washed out and refilled to
start again. If you add eggs to the second jar as you use the first you can have
an endless supply. I would recommend not feeding goldfish fry brine shrimps
after 12 days off the glass (free swimming) but to wean them on to a high protein
fry food.
Failure to Eat. Failure to eat can be a sign of disease or water quality problems.
It could possibly show that the current food needs to be changed. Lack of feeding
can be a sign of stress. Make sure to check on the fish from time to time.
Overfeeding. Overfeeding will cause unwanted food to spoil in the tank and
cause water quality problems. It will raise the ammonia and other products of
decay and encourage disease. You will want to monitor your fish eating and see
that you are not overfeeding.
Problems associated with overfeeding can be helped with routine water changes,
and regular aquarium care.
Storing Food. Sunlight, heat and moisture can speed up nutritional breakdown
in dry fish foods. You should not keep the fish food in the refrigerator as the food
could become damp from the condensation. Dry fish food that becomes wet
should be thrown out immediately. The reason is bacteria and fungus can grow
rapidly and may cause food poisoning.
You should use the opened containers of fish food within 2 to 3 months.
WATER GARDEN MODELS
Below, you’ll find photos of all different styles of water gardens to give you some
inspiration and ideas on how you may want to construct your own. Enjoy!