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Welcome to the Yonne Valleys
On the back - road route from Paris, only 2 hours from the capital, the Yonne Valleys
provide a green setting to lure all sorts of people: the curious, the day dreamers,
the sportsmen and women and the foodies. Come and revitalize yourself in this part
of Burgundy where forests, the Nivernais Canal, the river Yonne, limestone cliffs
and the varied scenery provide the back-drop for water sports, hiking, cycling, relaxation
and pleasure…
In the shadow of the Eternal Hill of Vézelay, gateway to the Morvan, the Yonne Valleys,
important centre for wood floating, invite you to spend time relaxing, whilst giving you
the opportunity to make rich discoveries and to meet new people.
Clamecy, medieval gem
Clamecy was officially established in the year 635 when the Bishop of Auxerre issued
its charter. Today, as capital of the Yonne Valleys, the town displays a rare collection of
architecture from early times to the 17th century. The beauty of its historic centre is the
reason it is included in the coveted list of protected sites. By roaming in its narrow streets,
you’ll be transported back in time by its half timbered houses and medieval statuettes.
The Collegial Church of St Martin, Clamecy
Built between the end of the 12 century and the 16 century, the collegial church of
St Martin is a jewel of the flamboyant gothic style, with its great door richly decorated
with scenes from the life of St Martin, its rose window and its flying buttresses, truly like
delicately worked stone lace.
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The tower was started in 1497 and finished in 1515. It is the work of master stone mason
Pierre Cuvé (or Couvet) and his men. The stone comes from the Basseville Rocks in Surgy
(8kms from Clamcecy).
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Summary
• Clamecy and its heritage: pages 2 - 7
• Nivernais Canal, cycle route,
wood floating: pages 8 - 9
• Clamecy and its area: pages 10 - 11
• Yonne Valley Villages: pages 12 - 15
• Outdoor activities: page 16
• Local products and Festivals: pages 16 - 17
• What to see round and about: page 18
The Thousand
Faces of Clamecy
Clamecy is a town where it’s good to wander. The half timbered
houses, protrude into often narrow, sloping streets. In this
medieval setting, you’ll appreciate the Weaver’s House with its
great variety of timbers. On the corner of the rue de la Monnaie
and the rue de la Fontaine-des-Mûres, there is a 15th century
house with a statuette of St Accroupi (crouching saint) which
seems to spring forth from it. Your visit is just beginning and
other surprises await you, so make sure you come to find out…
The origins of the
Collegial church
In 1075, the Viscount of
Clamecy founded a college
of eight canons and decided
to enlarge the small romanesque church: this is how the
collegial church was created,
and was then named in
honour of St Martin in 1438.
Substantial work was
undertaken, financed by the
piety and generosity of the
inhabitants of Clamecy.
The Tower, feature of the collegial church
The tower, constructed at the end of the 15th century, is 55m high
and has had an eventful history. Its architect, the master stone mason
Pierre Cuvé, known as “Bat-le-Duc” was killed when he fell from the
scaffolding. It is also said that in the 18th century on St Barbara’s
Day, the local people who were climbing the tower, were the victims of a practical joke: someone
had scattered peas on the steps. The people of Clamecy are really attached to this true architectural
master-piece, one of the most beautiful collegiate churches of France, with its central rose window
and its recently restored Cavaillé-coll organ.
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Notre Dame of Bethlehem
Clamecy Art and History Museum
It would be impossible not to notice this eastern
style church as you come into Clamecy over the
Bethlehem Bridge. Inevitably, this unusual building stands out to visitors who are surprised by
its foreign looking architecture.
It is a modern building, a relic from the time
when the bishopric of Bethlehem was exiled to
Clamecy. In the 13th century, the Bishop of Bethlehem took refuge in the small bishopric of Bethlehem next to Clamecy bequeathed by William
lV in 1168. It remained until 1801, in the district
to which it gave its name “district of Bethlehem”
also called the “Wood floaters quarter”.
It was to honour this unique history, that this
eastern style of architecture was chosen. The
façade of the nearby building, reminds us that
there was a former chapel here, which has now
been converted into a restaurant.
The Art and History Museum, is situated at the edge
of the medieval town; its eye-catching wall of
water, calls to mind Clamecy’s tradition of wood
floating. A magnificent room, unique in France,
is dedicated to this historic saga of more than
4 centuries, which made Clamecy the capital of
wood floating. You can admire its ceiling in the
shape of a boat’s hull. You will also slip from the
world of poster artist Charles Loupot, who created the St Raphael and Valentine logos, to the
library of the region’s son, pacifist writer and
humanist Romain Rolland, to the gallo-roman and
Merovingian room, which bear witness to the history of the Yonne Valleys and finally to the room
displaying painted china. Other paintings including a collection donated by François Mitterrand
and several beautiful works spanning the 17th
century to the present day are on display.
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Clamecy city centre
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You can’t leave Clamecy without having wandered through
the Vauvert park. You’ll find it in the river Beuvron part of
town, its 7 hectares are covered with lawns, flower beds
and shaded walks. If you’re one of the more active, the
12th century chateau, in the middle of the park, is the
starting point for a variety of sporting activites.
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In the former wood floaters quarter, also called Bethlehem, the artistic
china shop Colas carries on the traditions of the master potters who
have fashioned the history and reputation of Clamecy over the centuries. Knowledge handed down from generation to generation through
sleight of hand, the magic touch of the paintbrush and the desire for
excellent craftsmanship took their part in creating Clamecy’s china.
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Alain Colas (1943-1978):
was a lone sailor, born in
Clamecy on September 16th
1943. He crossed the Atlantic
alone. He disappeared on
November 16th 1978 when
he was in the lead on the Rhum
Route (St Malo to Point-à-Pitre).
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Romain Rolland (1866-1944):
writer and thinker of
international renown. He won
the Nobel Prize for Literature
and was a many faceted
author: from the saga
Jean Christophe, to the earthy
short novel which highlights
Clamcey, Colas Breugnon.
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Claude Tillier (1801-1844):
was an ascerbic pamphleteer
in the time of King Louis Philippe, a journalist and
also a novelist. Who could
forget Jacques Brel in the film
of Tillier’s famous work Mon
Oncle Benjamin, (My Uncle
Benjamin), a story typical of
Clamecy, combining humour
with polemical debate ?
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Clamecy and the Yonne Valleys have a rich history,
with some famous characters who have lived amongst us.
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Clamecy, history
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Water in the
Yonne Valleys
Nivernais Canal - cycle route
Joining the Loire basin with the Seine basin, via the River Yonne, the Nivernais canal crosses a variety
of landscapes which have remained unique. The canal is 180kms long with 110 locks between
St Léger-des-Vignes (Nièvre) and Auxerre (Yonne).
Until the beginning of the 20th century, the Nivernais Canal crossed through Clamecy where
currently the Avenue de la République and the town’s Museum of Art and History is situated.
Considered to be one of the prettiest canals of Europe, these days, its main use is for pleasure
boats and tourism. It thrills those who cruise on it, as well as any tourist who loves fresh air
and nature. The tow path has been transformed into a secure cycle route which is an integral
part of the “Burgundy Cycle Tour” and gives everyone whether alone or in a group of family or
friends the chance to discover the fauna and flora and other aspects of the Nivernais canal.
Wood Floating
From 1549 to 1923 wood floating, whose
function was to provide fuel for Paris, was a
very important activity for Clamecy and the
region.
The use of water as a method of transport
has existed from the earliest of times, but
floating logs, tied together to form “wood
trains” is a technique specific to this region.
The importance of Paris was increasing at
the beginning of the 16th century, but it was
shivering from lack of fuel. A solution had to
8
“wood trains” measuring 72m in length, then
were floated up to Paris via the Yonne river. Once
there, they were untied and the wood was sold.
Clamecy remained the capital of wood floating,
but Armes and Surgy had their ports and Billysur-Oisy and Trucy l’Orgueilleux provided wood
from their forests. In the final years of the 19th
century, the Nivernais canal put an end to the
wood trains. Wood floating finally disappeared in
1923 in order to allow barges laden with wood,
stone and coal the use of the Nivernais canal.
be found to move great quantities of cheap wood
in abundant supply to the capital.
As the road network hardly existed and was
therefore not a viable option, the idea of using the
network of rivers in the Morvan began to develop.
It was Charles Lecomte who planned the system
which stayed in place until the 20th century and
Jean Rouvet who turned it into a commercial possibility. In 1804, 700,000 cubic metres of wood
arrived in the capital. Thousands of logs were
floated up to Clamecy, creating a real “sea of timbers”. These logs were attached together to form
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Clamecy and its area
AUXERRE
SENS
PARIS
Camping
Gare SNCF
COULANGES
D 125
D 104
Ferrières
Point de vue
Andryes
D 39
D 21
Lucysur-Yonne
Surgy
ÉTAIS-LA
SAUVIN
Lavoir
L’YONNE
Aérodrome
N
VERS
YONNE
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Pousseaux
Escalade
Circuit VTT et Vélo route
Billysur-Oisy
D 16
D 155
Musée
NIÈVRE
58
Oisy
D 957
Collégiale
N 151
D 233
Cyclorail
VERS
Trucy
l’Orgueilleux
COSNE-COURSSUR-LOIRE
D 987
Clamecy
D 977
N 151
Brèves
Villiers
sur-Yonne
NC
A
Ouagne
La Maison-Dieu
AR M
Le Plessis
Aire de pique-nique
D 42
E
D5
D 985
TANNAY
D 23
D 34
LA CHARITÉ-SUR-LOIRE
NEVERS / BOURGES
VERS
BRINON-SUR-BEUVRON
11
D 985
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Office de tourisme
VERS
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Aire de camping-car
Thurigny
DU
N 151
Complexe sportif
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CANA
Saint-Pierredu-Mont
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BEUVRON
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Metz-le-Comte
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Saint-André
Dornecy
Creux
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VÉZELAY
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Rix
D 977
Sentier découverte
Chamoux
Breugnon
Port de plaisance
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Chevroches
Corvol
l’Orgueilleux
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Armes
Faïence
Halte fluviale
CHÂTEL
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CORBIGNY
CHATILLON-EN-BAZOIS
CHATEAU-CHINON
The Villages of the “Wood
Floating” Countryside
Armes
Both the River Yonne and one of the St Jacques de Compostela
routes pass through this pleasant village. Armes is close to the
Nivernais Canal and was an important part of the Wood Floating
industry in the 19th century. It was here that one of the first ports
equipped for lifting the wood from the water was situated.
Not to be missed: Château des Terrasses (privately owned) with
the St Lazare chapel; a former hospital where lepers were cared for
in the 11th and 12th centuries; the high wall rises above the main
road with an arched stone measuring nearly 9 metres across; frescos illustrating Claude Tillier’s book Belle Plante et Cornélius on the
inside walls of the village hall.
Mairie: 03 86 27 05 10 - [email protected]
Billy-sur-Oisy
This village has very ancient roots, evidenced by the number of
flints found within its bounds. For 350 years, a basket weaving
business existed here.
Not to be missed: The tower (privately owned), unique remains of
the Chateau Muzard; walking from the tower, you can follow the
route of the town walls; in the 13th century St Laurent church: a
golden carved wooden altar piece, and the chancel.
Brèves
Bordering the River Yonne and the Nivernais Canal, Brèves has
a campsite in Les Fontaines (the Fountains), one of the most
picturesque parts of the village. In the hamlet of Sardy-les-Forges,
there’s an old wheel from a watermill and in Sur-Yonne, the
guardroom, dating from the 16th century is one of the remains of
the hamlet’s fortifications when it was independent from Brèves.
Not to be missed: the 1832 church with its interior fresco by the
painter Dumoulin Drouart, dating from 1949; in the cemetery, the
grave of Romain Rolland, born in 1866, Nobel Prize Literature laureate (1915) and who died in 1946; footpath to Mont Brevois.
Mairie: 03 86 24 25 26 - [email protected]
Chevroches
Situated by the River Yonne and the Nivernais Canal, constructed
in 1830. Chevroches became a port for transporting stone from its
quarries. The stone was loaded onto horse-drawn barges for its
journey to Paris. During the 19th century, the stone was used locally
(chuches, bridges, houses), nationally (Pavillon de Flore, Louvre)
and in Europe (London pavements).
Not to be missed: Ancient ox bow lake of the Yonne; hiking
footpaths; former house of the poster artist, Charles Loupot, many
of whose posters are on display in Clamecy’s museum.
Mairie: 03 86 27 26 38 - [email protected]
Mairie: 03 86 24 98 04 - [email protected]
Breugnon
Dornecy
The village is made up from the hamlets of Villaine and Latrault and
is situated on the eastern summit of the Sauzay Valley. Breugnon has
been inhabited since prehistoric times, proved by the megaliths of
Pierre Fiche, found in the woods of the Grande Chaumâtres. Villaine
was destroyed by fire in 1844 and the courage of it inhabitants
was recognized by King Louis Philippe, who awarded them a medal.
Former walled town of the 16th century, pillars from the Porte de
Bourgogne, Porte de Clamecy, 2 towers and some sections of wall
are the remains of the fortifications. Surrounding the Burgundian
belltower of the church, dating from the 12th and 13th centuries and
flying the republican flag since 1795, there are 2 springs and 3
wash houses (lavoirs), 2 of which were given a roof in 1832. The
quarries, worked until 1932, providing stone for bridges, houses…
and the woods are still a source of income for the village.
Not to be missed: Château de Villaine (privately owned), built in
the 16th century, which according to legend has dungeons and a
tunnel leading to and from the neighbouring village of St Pierredu-Mont; footpath with a viewpoint and orientation table.
Mairie: 03 86 29 16 06 - [email protected]
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Not to be missed: the Champ de Foire former town square where
markets and fairs were held and Arbre de Sully a 400 year old lime
tree.
Mairie: 03 86 24 29 91 - [email protected]
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The Villages of the “Wood Floating” Countryside
Oisy
Surgy
Grand-Oisy, Petit-Oisy, Paroy and Sembrèves make up the village
of Oisy. Grand Oisy and Paroy are built like ancient walled towns
in a concentric circle. They have surprising street names like rue
des Barbes-à-Croc, Sente-de-la-Taupine. In Petit Oisy, the 15th century St-Symphorien Church has flying buttresses and an airy choir
containing a finely carved wall armoire. Outside, on the north and
south buttresses are 2 heads which watch over the old cemetery.
Situated close to the River Yonne and the Nivernais Canal and the
Andryes stream, Surgy is best known for its 3 stars gîte (for groups)
and its rock climbing site at the Basseville Rocks.
Not to be missed: the old bridges and wash houses of Batilly, Petit
Oisy and Paroy. Footpaths on the hillside of Feugeas and St Aubin.
Mairie: 03 86 24 92 61 - [email protected]
Not to be missed: Church in the flamboyant gothic style with
its hexagonal spire 16m high, old mills, educational trail at the
Basseville Rocks (GPS guide available at Clamecy Tourist Office or
at the gîte in the village.)
Mairie: 03 86 27 17 83 - [email protected]
Gîte: 03 86 27 97 89 - www.domaine-de-surgy.com
Ouagne
Trucy-l’Orgueilleux
The village, which includes the hamlet of Le Plessis, is in the Beuvron Valley, on the pilgrim route to St-Jacques-de-Compostelle.
The Beuvron, now used for fishing, used to be one of the rivers
used by woodsmen for floating their timber up to Clamecy. Until
the 15th century, the village’s economy was based on agriculture,
forges and furnaces, but this is no longer the case.
Situated on a hillside which used to be covered in vines, overlooking
the Sauzay Valley, Trucy-l’Ogueilleux was formerly a village of stone
masons, loggers, woodfloaters, weavers and vine growers. There
are traces of a military past: a Roman road through the woods
and manorial foundations; the footpaths, the Vieilles Creuses (Old
Hollows), carved out of the rocks, lead to the forest, which covers
half of the village.
Not to be missed: Remarkable 16th century church in the flamboyant
gothic style (except the bell tower which dates from the end of the
18th century); wash-house in Le Plessis; the renaissance Chateauvert
(privately owned) built in 1859 by Charles Rambourg, former master
forger of the village, with stone from the quarry in Chevroches.
Not to be missed: 13th century church, with an 18th century spire;
the wash-house, which is also a spring and a watering hole, very
typical of the end of the 18th century; Calvary cross; very old trees;
orientation tables on the several footpaths.
Mairie: 03 86 27 19 44 - [email protected]
Mairie: 03 86 29 15 03 - [email protected]
Rix
Villiers-sur-Yonne
The village is situated on the banks of the Beuvron between Le
Plessis and Clamecy, near an aerodrome. In 1214, the Beaulieu
Priory was founded here by count Hervé of Donzy. After the First
World War, the priory was converted into an abattoir. A bicycle
parts business, still there today, was established in 1962. The village’s history was influenced by Bias Parent, its priest and mayor
during the Revolution.
In the middle of a gentle valley, Villiers is situated along the
Nivernais Canal. Several footpaths lead to the top of the wooded
slopes which surround the village and from where there are magnificent views of the Yonne Valley, the vineyards and the surrounding
countryside.
Not to be missed: The church whose door is a classified historic
monument, ancient wash-house.
Mairie: 03 86 27 24 40 - [email protected]
Not to be missed: 19th century wash-houses; Château de Cuncy,
best seen from the towpath of the canal towards Clamecy;
monument to the Resistance cell of the “wolf” (Maquis du loup)
at Creux, in whose woods, the members of the Resistance hid out
during World War II.
Mairie: 03 86 24 25 59 - [email protected]
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15
Fresh air, gastronomy and
festivals in the Yonne Valleys
What could be better than having been revitalised by immersing yourself in nature,
to sit down to a good meal and then go off to enjoy discovering new things…
You’re not going to get bored in the country of the Wood Floaters
Outdoor Activities
Wine and Gastronomy
Festivals and Events
Alain Colas Canoe club will allow you to get to
know the area by canoeing down the river Yonne:
a safe trip down a calm river. Starting point at the
Alain Colas sports ground; 1 hour or 2 ½ hour
trips in July and August
Traditions still maintained, varied local produce
and talented chefs have made Clamecy and the
region a gastronomic landmark which you cannot
pass by.
Andouillettes and White Wine Festival: “La Mère Chapuis” who lived in Clamecy in the 19th century,
was a cook without compare and her restaurant was packed on market days. The wood traders from
Paris loved her andouillettes (coarse sausages) and today, Clamecy andouillettes, washed down with a
delicious local white wine is still sought after, especially during its Festival , the first weekend of July.
The vineyards of the region, valued by the French
Kings, were completely destroyed by phyloxera.
In 1990, through the dedication of some locals
Chardonnay, Melon and Pinot Noir vines were reintroduced and you will see them growing on the
banks of the Yonne river. Dry white wines from
the vineyards at Villers sur Yonne and Tannay are
served at the Prime Minister’s residence at Matignon. They go well with various local specialities:
galette aux grillaudes (buckwheat pancakes with
bacon bits), andouillette de Clamecy (coarse
sausage made in Clamecy), la potée morvandelle (a pork based stew with vegetables from
the Morvan), le pave charolais (Charolais steak),
les escargots de Bourgogne (Burgundy snails),
les oeufs meurette (eggs
in red wine) and even with
our local artisans’ chocolates and pastries.
Le Festival des Perthuis: running throughout July and August, this festival welcomes a variety of musicians and artists to Clamecy and the nearby villages. The concerts and shows which cost nothing, take
place in the streets and public places: restaurants, cafés. You can listen to: rock, jazz, blues, percussion,
African rhythms, accordians, street singers… all for free!
Rock Climbing at the Basseville Rocks by the
river Yonne and the Nivernais Canal on the road
from Clamecy to Surgy. There are many different
routes on the rocks ranging from 15m to 40m.
This site called Natura 2000 has been equipped
for enthusiasts of rock climbing, but also for
hikers. By taking the pathway which leads up
from the car park you can discover the geology
of the area.
A multimedia guide as well as
brochures are available at the
Tourist Office in Clamecy or in
Surgy at the group gite.
Information:
Tourist Office in Clamecy: Tel: 03 86 27 02 51
email: [email protected]
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Clamecy Jousting Tournament: the water jousting was the favourite entertainment of the wood floaters.
Today, these values and traditions are maintained and a jousting tournament takes place every July 14th
on the Yonne river at the Bethlehem bridge in Clamecy. Wearing just a T shirt and trousers with a red
or blue belt, each competitor thrusts out his chest to his opponent and then they each try to push each
other into the water with the aid of a long pole. The loser is called the “Wet King” and the winner, the
“Dry King”, is carried triumphantly to the Town Hall.
Wood Floating Festival: the third weekend of July, the wood floating festival is both a homage to the
wood floaters of old and the opportunity to introduce the local cultural heritage and local gastronomy
to a larger audience.
Descente Bidon (Raft Race): taking place on the 2nd Sunday of August, the Descente Bidon is in honour
of the log floating tradition. The day consists of floating down the river Yonne and the Nivernais Canal
on a variety of home made rafts. Not to be missed: the evening arrival of the rafts at the Tambourinette,
followed by a feast of frogs legs!
The Yonne Valleys Year in Music: classical music concerts are organized throughout the year in the
churches and cultural venues of the region.
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Round and About
Trips into the Morvan
We wish you a good
stay in Clamecy
Whether on foot, on a bike or on horseback, go out and discover the natural park, its large lakes, its mushroom forests or relax on the banks of a
rural river. Visit the rich historical and architectural heritage from Vezélay
to Autun, via Bazoches and the celtic museum of Bibracte. People who are
looking for good sporting opportunities can try horse riding, rafting, quad
biking, off road cycling, to make the most of all that Burgundy can offer.
Maison du Tourisme du Parc du Morvan - 58230 Saint-Brisson
Tel.: 03 86 78 79 57 - http://tourisme.parcdumorvan.org
Varzy and the Auguste Grasset Museum
The museum has been able to preserve the encyclopedic sprit of its founder, in love with eclectic things. Hurry to discover this mixture of Egyptian
sarcophagi , Asiatic clubs, musical instruments, ancient paintings, local pottery, and celtic bracelets.
April-June and September-October: 10am-12am and 2pm-6pm. Closed Monday and
Sunday mornings, and Tuesdays. July and August: 10am-12.30pm and 2.30pm6.30pm. Closed on Tuesdays and Sunday mornings. Free entrance on Saturdays.
Musée Auguste Grasset - Place de l’Hôtel de Ville - 58210 Varzy
Tel.: 03 86 29 72 03 - [email protected] - www.musees-bourgogne.org
Vézelay, the “Eternal Hill”
Bearing witness to a spiritually rich history and heritage, the Basilica of
St Madeleine dominates the picturesque village whose walls, gates and parapet walks have been preserved. The starting point for the pilgrimage to
St Jacques de Compostello in Spain, master piece of Romanesque art, the basilica amazes visitors by its size, its luminosity, its capitols and its 3 tympanums.
Not to be missed: Maison Jules-Roy, Maison du Visiteur, Viollet-le-Duc
Museum, Zervos Museum-Romain Rolland House.
Office de tourisme - 12, rue Saint-Étienne - 89450 Vézelay
Tel.: 03 86 33 23 69 - [email protected] - www.vezelaytourisme.com
Guédelon: they’re building a castle!
In an old quarry in the Guédelon forest, a 13th century castle is being built
as you watch! The keep, the dwelling, the bedroom with its paintings, the
kitchen, the cellar, imposing ribbed vaults and part of a parapet walk have
been created before the eyes of thousands of people who have visited this
unique building site.
Château de Guédelon - D 955 - 89520 Treigny
Tel.: 03 86 45 66 66 - [email protected] - www.guedelon.fr
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With pleasant Mrs Diane Thurman’s collaboration
(Guest houses of Missiaux) for the English translation