Hueco Tanks

Delivrance Boulder
presents
to Mushroom
9
slab
4
3
1
2
10
11
7
12
6
8
15,16
13
5
14
a little bouldering guide
Restrooms
of
F R
F R
1. The Affectation
V1
Start with the low huecos in undercling and climb the scoop with
crimps.
F R
2. To-Bo Or Not To Bo
V1
Climb the left side of the face, just right of the centre.
F R
3. Jellyroll Jamboree
V0-
V0+
Many variations up the face. The tallest line up the center is the hardest.
F R
10. East Face
V0 to V1
Many variations up the face. The left line up the dark streak is the
hardest,
F R
11. Albino Simpleton
F R
F R
4. Unknown
easy
Start on a jug and traverse left to finish in To-Bo Or Not To Be.
F R
5. Unknown
easy
Start on a jug and traverse left along a crack and top out as Sir
Nose D'Voidoflunk.
F R
6. Unknown
easy
SDS - Start on a crimp and climb straight up to a small
right-facing corner.
F R
7. Sir Nose D'Voidoffunk
V0-
12. Manly Stuff
V4
13. Southern Hospitality
V2
Start with the 7 feet high 4-finger hueco and climb straight up.
V3
Start on the high left-facing hold and go to the right side of the
small roof.
Mushroom Boulder
F R
14. Drooling Banjos
V3
The New Meadow
Start on sidepulls and climb left of the arete.
F R
15. Squeal Like A Pig
V2
16. Special Delivery
The Gymnasium
Small Potatoes
F R
F R
North Mountain
SDS - Start on a big hueco and go for two left-facing huecos, then top
out.
F R
Climb the face with edges.
Climb right of the arete.
Hueco Tanks
V1
Climb the overhanging prow.
Climb the tallest line of the face.
8. Downpressor Man
9. NE Face
V6
Start as Squeal Like A Pig but traverse left all the way to the stack
of rock right of where you started.
Big Time
Trac II
Warm Up Boulder
Lunch Rocks
Delivrance
And much more kick ass bouldering
20
Hueco Tanks, Texas
The Mushroom Boulder
We all heard about the access problems in Hueco. But what's the real deal?
Well, you can still climb and it is still a kick ass place even though there are
restrictions. If you go in Hueco on weekdays, when there are no holidays
Austin
around, you'll be able to climb enough to trash your fingers.
The only area you can go by yourself is the North Mountain. That's still plenty
of boulderings, including the classic Mushroom Boulder.
They allow 10 people to walk-in everyday. That means, get there early and
you might be able to climb without a reservation. Another 60 persons are
allowed to go in the park with reservation. If they don't show up by noon, you
can get their places. Even before noon some people cancel, so hang around if
you couldn't get a walk-in. The fee is $4 a day or you can get a Texas pass for
$50 a year. You also have to go through a short orientation which will be good
for a year. For reservation call (512) 389-8900 or email at "[email protected]"
If you want to climb outside North Mountain, you have to go on a guided tour. The park offers free tours that last
between 2 and 4 hours. It happens however that those tours are cancelled. You can also get a less expensive tour that
last 8 hours with Rob. Get info at (915) 855-0142
How to get there: From El Paso, drive on 62/180 east for about 25 miles, then make a left on rd 2775 for Hueco
Tanks Historical State Park. This road will get you straight to the park.
From anywhere east of El Paso, get to the I-10 direction El Paso. Exit at Sierra Blanka on rd 1111 north. After 30
miles this road will end as it meets the 62/180. Take a left and drive on this rd until you see the sign for rd 2775 and
Hueco Tanks. Make a right and this road will get you in the park.
When: From October to early April. It is the desert so temperature drops a lot at night and the nights are quite cold
in the winter.
Eat: There are many places to eat in El Paso. Go out there and explore. A popular place for quick stuff is the Vista
Market which has excellent fresh tortillas and good pastries. From Hueco, go toward El Paso on Montana ave. It
will be a small yellow and blue bulding on your left, just after the Vista Market.
To do groceries, you can go on Montana ave or if you want something bigger, the closest supermarket is the
Smith. From Hueco, go to the 62/180 (Montana) and turn right. Drive for 14 miles or so, after a Body Shop and a
Diamond Shamrock gas station, make a left on George Dieter Rd. Drive on this road passing a few traffic lights.
You'll get to a busy place with a bunch of fast foods, a K-Mart and a Smith on your left and a Target on your right.
Sleep: You have a few options for camping:
- You can camp for free in the desert but this is not recommended.
- You can camp for $2 at Pete’s, with no amenities.
- You can camp in the actual Hueco Park but you need to reservation.
- You can camp at the Hueco Rock Ranch like most of the climbers do. To get to Rob's, travel down rd 2775
(which gets you to the park). Prior to the entrance to the park, you will see a red sign that says "Hueco Mountain
Road", turn left. After 0.4 mile, turn right on the first paved road (Woodrow road). Travel down Woodrow Rd 'til
it dead-ends into a gravel road, turn left. Travel down the gravel road for 1/2 mile. Rob's is the 3rd house on the
left, a beige two story with a silver roof. You can't miss it.
Guidebook: The first guidebooks to Hueco were written by John Sherman. They introduced the V-Scale to north
America. They were very well done and set the standards for bouldering guides in the 90s.
Matt Wilder managed to raise the bar with his latest guidebook to Hueco. Probably one of the best guide published
in the last few years.
18
19
21
20
4
24
23
17
22
1. Twisted
F R
16,15
14 13 12
2. Legal High
Start on huge hueco and go up and right.
3. Family Size
F R
Start just next of Legal High but go left.
4. Ascent of Man
F R
Climb good huecos left of the slabby ramp.
5. Gotta Want It
6. Right Wannabe
F R
F R
F R
F R
F R
V0
15. Right El Sherman
V0
16. Left El Sherman
V4
V6
17. Crap Arete
V4
V0+
18. Jerogringo
V0
19. That's Entertainement
V6
V4
20. Mushroom Roof
V8
21. Craterface
V0-
V2
Start on 2 crimps 7 feet high, go right with sidepulls and finish
in the "v" at the top.
F R
10. My Fifteen Minutes
V7
Start on the same crimps than The Local Flakes, but trend left on
bad crimps.
F R
F R
Climb with sidepulls, directly under the 2 huecos.
V6
Start with high crimps right of the low roof and move right with
good sidepulls to the biggest hueco.
F R
V6
Start as Center but trend left (SDS for this one or Center is a V7).
F R
V2
Start from the big hueco and crimp your way to the next one.
The dyno is a cool but dangerous V3.
F R
Start from the big hueco as Right El Sherman but go left to the
smaller-but-still-big hueco.
F R
Climb the steep arete with huecos. Broken holds???
F R
V2
Start with a sidepull and a good crimp, traverse right and top out
left of the leaning boulder.
F R
Start low, climb with good crimpers and traverse right to the
Mushroom top out. Broken holds at the lip make it harder????
F R
The classic. Start with the big jug 5 feet high and climb the roof to
the tricky top out. Also a SDS variation.
F R
Fool around with big holds.
22. Collision Course
F R
Climb the right side of the small boulder.
V10
23. Blast-Off
V8
24. The Gantry
Start on micro crimps, go to a left-facing gaston and climb the face.
12. Right El Murray
F R
14. Left El Murray
Direct start without using the small left-facing flake.
9. The Local Flakes
7
V0+
Start on a left-facing hueco and climb up to a right-facing corner.
8. Local Flakes Direct
8
5
13. Center El Murray
SDS - Climb along a thin crack with left-facing holds.
7. Left Wannabe
11 10
9
6
V3
Start on a good hueco, just under where the wall gets smaller.
Follow a thin crack.
F R
11. The Women With The...
2
to restrooms
1 2
3
F R
Climb the middle of the small boulder.
Climb the arete.
F R
V0+
V0
V0-
19
Between
North Mountain Overview
29
5
28,27
1
2 3
6
23
26
22
7
Dam
4
9
24
25
20 21
10
12 11
8
East
Mountain
13
Ghetto Simulator (V1)
30' overhanging jug fest with
a slab behind it.
19
18
14
15 16
17
1. Unknown
easy
2. Unknown
F R
16. Saxon Tactics
easy
Lower
Lost
(page 7)
3. Unknown
easy
SDS - Climb up to the big hueco.
V2
SDS - Start on the BIG jug under the roof, climb the roof and pull over
the lip.
F R
5. Tiny Rubber Lover
Gymnasium
(page 10)
Split Boulder
(page 17)
V0-
The New Meadow
(page 11)
P
F R
20. Boo
V0
Start with a good incut edge.
Interpretive
Center
F R
V1
SDS - Start sitting on a boulder, on the right side of the low roof.
V0-
V0
The Kitchen
(page 4)
Climb the arete.
P
F R
F R
Sign Of
The Cross
(page 5)
V0
Climb the middle of the face, left of the one-digit mono.
21. Eek-A-Mouse
22. Scary Arete
Lunch Rock
(page 16)
dam
F R
F R
R
Between
(page 18)
Chains
Climb right of the arete and left of the tree.
V2
Start with the incut smile and go up to some gastons.
8. Tobacco-chewing...
18. Gay Abandon
19. Feces Of The Ages
F R
7. Buzz Bomb
Mushroom
Boulder
(page 19)
V0-
SDS - Climb in the middle of the small face.
V2
SDS - Start with a slot and a jug under the roof.
6. Secret Weapon
Delivrance
(page 20)
F R
F R
4. Flesh Tuxedo
17. Top Guy 1
Trac II
(page 12)
Potatoes
(page 9)
F R
F R
V3
Warm Up
Boulder
(page 14)
Climb the overhanging arete.
Start on a flat jug and climb the face.
F R
F R
9. Unknown
easy
Start on 2 right-facing sidepull. Really short.
V0
Start squeezed between the two boulders. Climb with good edges.
V0
Start right hand with the "V" in the crack.
24. Proud to be an...
V0+
P
R
P
Gate
Start right of the boulder with 2 small crimps.
25. Eczema
V0
Follow the crack up and left.
V0-
26. Psoriasis
V0
27. Shaved Pits
Start left hand with the "V" in the crack.
to HWY 62/180
(Montana Ave)
V1
Climb the slab just left of the corner.
F R
F R
13. The Hashmarker
Park
Headquaters
F R
F R
12. Hard Wipe
V
Climb the line of huecos, right of the arete.
F R
F R
11. Dingleberry Jones..
23. The Melon Patch
F R
F R
10. The Sphincter
Start standing on a boulder and climb right of the arete.
F R
SDS - Climb the short overhanging arete.
V0
SDS - Climb the arete.
SDS - Climb the arete.
14. Butt Buddy
V2
Climb the polished face.
Start with the low hueco and climb to the mantle.
F R
Upper Lost
Boulders
Big Time
(page 6)
(page 8)
F R
15. Lucky Pierre
F R
V0
V1
From the right-facing sidepull go way up and left to a hueco above the
bulge.
F R
28. Five O'Clock Shadow
V2
R
Restrooms
P
Parking
There are more areas on North Mountain,
but those are some of the best.
If you plan on staying for a while,
Sherman's guidebook is definitely worth it.
Start as Shaved Pits but go up and right.
F R
29. Unknown
18
hard
SDS - Start on slopers really low, climb up with bad holds and trend
right over the boulder.
3
Split And Malice
The Kitchen and The Gums Area
Park just after the entrance station, at the interpretive centre (Escontrias Ranch House). You can see, right of the
slab, a bunch of steep boulders, that's The Kitchen. To go to The Gums walk left around The Kitchen.
12
11
9 10
12
13
15
4
8 7
6
14
16
3
5
2
1
D
2
3,4
19 20
21
17
18
5
6
7
8
9 10
11
1
V6
SDS - Start with underclings at the bottom of the roof and go to a line
of slopey huecos.
F R
2. Rear Burner
V6
SDS - Start with a bad undercling, and go to a bunch of small huecos.
V2
Traverse the right wall from left to right without using the boulder
behind.
F R
4. Gulp'n Blow
V5
Start on a big hueco, left of a 5 feet drop, and climb up to a hueco
at the lip.
F R
5. Poppin' Fresh
V2
Start with a pocket and a knob and climb the really short face.
V2
F R
V2
Climb the slab with many knobs.
V4
V3
With the fact on the ground, reach for 2 huecos at the lip.
13. Dentugrip
Start with a good feet hold and almost no hands.
3. Split Personality
Climb the right side of the face on tiny crimps.
4. Split Infinitive
5. Banana Split
10. Split Crack
6. Split Grain
V0
The crack.
11. Split Decision
V3
Start on the hueco and climb under the left-leaning crack.
F R
F R
V2
V3
Climb the small column left of the crack.
F R
V0
Climb the steps up to a small corner.
16. Juarez Dentist
9. Splitting Image
F R
V0-V1
V2
Climb the slab.
F R
V2
Start as Split Personality but go straight up the face.
F R
15. Gums Slab
8. The So-Bogeyman
F R
V2
V1
Start right of the scoop-corner and trend left to finish in Split
Grain.
F R
F R
V0+
Start with a high sidepull and climb up and left to the corner.
F R
14. Root Canal
7. Splitting Headache
F R
V5
SDS - Start with jug at the lip and lock off to other jugs.
SDS - Climb up and right.
V1
Start with left-facing holds and climb the small bulge.
12. Various
V0
Many V0s with Split names.
F R
F R
7. The Butcher Block
2. The A-Cup Team
F R
F R
V4
SDS - Start with slopers and climb the steep crack.
F R
12. Gums
Many friction problems up the slab.
Start way right.
6. A Woman's Place
1. Ricardo Cracker
F R
F R
3. Deep Fryer
11. A Minor
F R
F R
F R
F R
1. Short Order Cook
V3
Start with a high, good edge.
17. Speak to Me Oh ...
V1
Climb right of the low crack.
F R
F R
8. Garbage Disposal
V1
18. Bad Betas
V1
Climb left of the low crack.
6 feet right of the end.
F R
F R
9. See Sharp
V3
Start right of the slabby boulder. Possible SDS.
19. Fred's Problem
F R
10. Be Flat
V12
Start on a wide undercling under the bulge. Go slightly left to
small crimps then to left-facing sidepulls and pull on the slab.
F R
V7
Start with 2 low crimps and up to a pinch. The top out is the crux.
20. Power of Silence
V10
Start on high crimps in the small dihedrall and go right. Looks
easy until you try.
F R
21. Springtime for Hitler
V5
Climb the crack.
4
17
Lunch Rocks Area
Sign Of The Cross
20
28 to 22
Standing on the northwest end of the dam, you point toward this area. It is hidden in the boulders a
few yards in front of you.
19
21
To the dam
7
8
1
9
15 16
2
3
5
4
6
13 14
7
1
15. Just Another Pretty Face
V2
Climb the slab right of the bushes.
F R
2. Roughage
V7
Start with the left-facing flake and climb the steep face, going
slightly left over a bad landing.
F R
3. Slip It In
V7
SDS - Start right hand in a pocket and bump a few times to 2 eyes.
F R
16. The Dripping Gash
V5
Start at the right end of the tree with crimps.
17. The Thighburner
F R
18. Swinging Single
F R
V7
SDS - Obvious start and go right on the bulge.
19. Jingomo
20. Scarface
SDS - Huecos, hueco, hueco, hueco, gaston and then the top.
21. Daily Grind
V1
Start left of the horizontal crack and go right to huecos.
V3
Climb left of the arete.
10. Hungry Belly
22. Another Day, Another...
V2
Climb right of the rock, with good crimps.
F R
11. Various
V6
23. How Cilley Can You Get
12. Culture
V0+
Climb with the corner.
13. Turtle Wax
V2
25. The Lazy Cowgirls
V0-
V0F R
7. Doug's Project
V0
Start with 2 crimps. Go to hueco.
F R
V2
Start as Present Arms but traverse right to top out right of the
arete.
F R
26. Thingfish
F R
V3
Start with the bad hueco and climb the face without using the
arete or the jugs out right.
F R
Climb the big seam with huecos.
Start with the 3-finger sidepull and climb left of the arete.
Potbelly, RBI and Pedro Drives One In. 3 problems with bad
landing.
F R
V4
Start with the low sloper on the arete and go for another sloper.
Top out right or left.
F R
6. Lughead
F R
V1
F R
5. Thin White Line
F R
24. Present Arms
Climb right of the arete.
V12
4. Arislope
F R
V2
V3
Start high with the small hueco. Starting with the undercling and
adding one move is V4.
F R
V2
Start next to the 3-hole rock.
F R
2. Sign of the Cross
Sit down start to Sign of the Cross.
Stand right of the 3-hole rock.
F R
V9
SDS - Start in the back of the cave on a sloper. Climb the featured
roof up and then left.
F R
3. Chablank
F R
F R
9. Hard Again
V2
Stand on the boulder and climb the scoop.
V1
8. Tell Mama
V4
Grab crimps at the lip and crank up the short face. Don't fall on
the boulder behind.
F R
F R
F R
1. Revenge of the Choir Boys
F R
V0+
7. Orifice Affair
V3
Jump to the lip.
The name says it all.
6. No Wonder
V1
Start with 2 slopey huecos sidepull and go right for a jug.
F R
5. Wonderhole
V0
Left foot on a good edge, right-hand hueco-sidepull, step for the
seam.
F R
F R
4. Another Dick Face
V4
Start on 2 good holds right of the crack.
F R
Climb with many cracks.
F R
V1
27. The Torture Never Stop
V3
Start low on a good edge at the lip.
Start with a good sidepull and go right for a pocket.
F R
28. Unknown
16
6
F R
V1
Grab the lip and top out.
14. Armor All
5
17
2,3
F R
1. Feel Like Shit... Deja Vu
4
18
10 11 12
V4?
Start as The Torture Never Stop, traverse left and top out as
Present Arms.
5
Warm Up Area
Upper Lost Boulder
F R
F R
1. Terminal Football
1
2. Various
V0s
15
14
V2
6
8
4. Black Napkins
F R
V2
V4
8. Noh Bada Wid It
SDS - Start with the undercling in the middle of the wall.
Start with slopey hueco and climb the short face under the big
hanging boulder.
F R
V5
SDS - Start with big jugs at the lip and pull over the bulge with
bad crimps.
F R
V2
11. Gangrene Seam
Climb the thin crack.
F R
12. Fistfucker
SDS - Start at the very back of the roof and climb the fist crack.
13. Fingerfucker
F R
V1
SDS - Start with 2 crimps, 6 feet left of El Mexico.
F R
V
SDS - Start with a jug and up with good holds.
14. Big Iron On His Hip
V7
Start on the slopey hueco and traverse right to the good flake and
top out on crimps.
F R
15. Shaken Not Stirred
V12
SDS - Start in the back of the cave and climb right to finish on Big
Iron.
F R
F R
V0+
Climb the middle of the face.
16. Esperanza
V14
F R
22. Bitch Magnet
V0
V0+
23. Rumble In The Jungle
F R
F R
V2
24. Juju Wall
Start as Big Shot but climb directly through the bulge.
The sit down start is V3.
F R
Many variations.
10. The Butter Dish
11. Thunderbird
V1
F R
25. First Degree Burns
V1
F R
V1
Start with a high left-facing sidepull, go right to another sidepull
and up to a jug.
F R
13. Murray Lunge
V0s
Climb just right of the tree with good huecos.
F R
12. Barnstormer
V0
Small slab.
26. Nice Girls Do
V5
Climb up to a good undercling and a hard top out.
Bad landing.
V6
Start as Barnstormer but lunge to the jug.
F R
14. Namedropper
V3
SDS - Start on good crimps and traverse right with huecos and
slopers.
SDS - Start in Shaken Not Stirred then go straight on crimps.
F R
8. Cheapcake
F R
V1
Follow the right-leaning crack and top out left.
17. Martini Roof
V10
SDS - Start at the back of the cave but go left on hueco.
F R
F R
9. El Rauncho
V4
V0-
Climb with slopey huecos.
F R
F R
9. Big Shot
Start in huecos and climb up to the vertical crack.
F R
F R
7. The French Route
V5
SDS - Start in huecos and up to a finger crack.
SDS - Start squeezed between the boulders.
6. Unknown
V0
21. Dumbo
Start with good huecos
Start with the flake, climb to the wide jug and go right.
F R
V2
5. Fast Break
V1
The middle of the face.
F R
V0+
Climb the arete.
F R
10. Not Again
V0+
F R
F R
SDS - Start behind the tree and traverse left to finish as
Barnstormer.
F R
V3
20. Young Man Blues
Climb to the scoop.
7. Pounding System
F R
V0-
Start with a good knob and climb to huecos.
F R
V6
Climb with sidepulls, right of the scoop.
4. El Marco
19. Elder Statesman
F R
6. Stinking Jesus
11
V0F R
V7
Start with a high 2-hand crimp and climb left of the arete.
13
3. Girls Of Texas
18. Loopzilla
Climb the arete.
Start with crimps right of the arete.
5. Winking Jesus
10
V0+
2 crimps to a slopey edge.
F R
7
9
12
2. Mexican Love Handle
17. Stranded In L.A.
F R
5
4
V0
F R
F R
3. The Hens From Hell
The left line that starts right of a small bush.
1. Supergoose
16. Mud Shark
Climb to a slopey hueco.
Many lines to fool around.
16
V0+
F R
F R
3
17
15. Lonesome Electric...
Climb the bulge left of the descent.
The long slab left of the tree.
2
18
V0+
V1
Start with a high sidepull and climb the tallest line.
18. Schadenfraud
V5
SDS - Start on the left side of the cave and finish on Martini
Roof.
Walk up the slab and you'll get to an obvious boulder with a classic
problem on it.
F R
27. T-Bone Shuffle
V4
SDS - Start 2 hands on a hueco and up to a ramp. Traverse left to a
hueco at the lip and dyno to another hueco up the face.
6
15
The Lower Lost Boulders
Warm Up Area
walk down
to #15 and 16
26
25
23
22 21 20
19 18
24
14
to #27
Slab
8
15
14
13,12
11
10,9
7
16 17
13
12
4
3
10
6
5
2
4
1
3
9
table 7
2
11
7,8
6
5
table 8
1
table 6
to Upper Lost Boulders
F R
1. Texas Friendly
F R
V3
9. Gloria
V7
Start with a 2-finger pocket and a crimp and climb right then up.
F R
2. Safe Sects
V0+
V0+
Start with the big undercling under the roof and climb right of the
arete.
F R
4. Tension Deficit Disorder
V0
Start with the high crack and climb straight up. Bad landing.
F R
5. My Tan
V7
SDS - Start with an undercling, go for some edges and traverse
left to top out on the left side.
F R
6. Bloody Flapper
V9
Start as Lip Sync but keep traversing left to climb Bloody Flapper
from the start.
14
V1
SDS - Climb right of the arete. Short, steep, long moves and good
holds.
F R
12. Ballbuster
V3
Start 6 feet left of the cement wall. Jump to a good edge in the
right-leaning crack and top out.
F R
13. Dambuster
V2
Climb just right of the arete.
F R
14. Hold The Mayo
V2
Climb behind the boulder.
V4
Start at the right end, traverse left on good flakes and up following
the good holds.
F R
8. Banana Juice
F R
11. Pussy Route
V4
Start with low edges, go for the undercling, edges and then the jug
at the lip.
F R
7. Lip Sync
really hard
SDS - Climb the alcove from the bottom on bad crimps.
F R
3. The Proposition
F R
10. project
F R
15. Rattlesnake Left
V4
SDS - Start with the good edge and climb left of the crack and
with the crack.
F R
16. Rattlesnake Right
V5
Start with the low hueco and the crack. Left of the crack is
off-route.
7
Big Time Boulder
Closed to climbing
19 18
21
25,26
20
14
24
27
to the Gymnasium
17
12
22
F R
8
4,5
7
V3
Hueco Tanks
The essential guide to American’s bouldering Mecca.
9
The new guidebook to
Hueco Tanks bouldering.
6
1 2
1. Power of Time
10
13
16 15
23
11
3
Hundreds of color photographs.
15. For Adults Only
V3
Almost 1700 problems described.
16. Movers And Shakers
V0+
hard
17. Wife On Ice
V1
Available from
www.wolverinepublishing.com
5. Unknown
medium
18. Aging Celtics
V1
6. Unknown
medium
19. Blubberhead
V1
7. Unknown
medium
20. It's A Man's World
V2
8. Dark Age
V11
21. Wild Turkey
V8
9. See Spot Run
V6
22. Dean's Bad Trip
V4
Bare Foot on Sacred Ground
V11
Dean's Bad Day
V8
Dean's Bad Hair Day
V8
SDS - Climb the crack.
2. Why Suffer?
V2
3. Betacarotene
V1
4. Unknown
SDS - Climb the short overhanging prow.
SDS - Start on crimps and go for the hueco.
Climb the arete if you dare.
Climb the slab between the boulders.
SDS - Start on the big sloper and go left with the undercling.
SDS - Start as the previous one but move right and top out with the
crack.
SDS - Start with bad right-facing slopers and climb straight up to finish
in the crack as the previous one.
SDS - Climb the overhanging prow with right-facing huecos.
SDS - Climb the steep prow to hueco, then go right in See Spot Run.
Start with a right-facing hueco and trend left for the first moves, then
climb straight up the face.
SDS - Start with the left undercling, trend left and finish right as
Aging Celtics.
SDS - Start with the right undercling and climb through flat edges.
Start low on the flake and climb the bulgy arete.
Start with the crimper at the lip of the roof and climb the face.
Start left at the back of the roof and climb it with sidepulls and a big
undercling, pull over and top out.
SDS - Start with a big pinch and climb the steep boulder.
Eliminate - Use only the overhanging arete, the V4 holds out right
are off.
SDS - Start at the bottom of the arete on small crimps and climb straight
up without the hueco to finish on See Spot Run.
10. Free Delivery
V0+
11. Tall Stack
V4
12. Griddle Cake
V1
Climb the long face with huecos.
Eliminate - Use only the first crimp after the starting jugs (slopers
under the roof and V4 holds to the right are off) then go left to
crimp near exit then toss.
Start above the low roof and climb left of the leaning boulder.
Start standing in the middle of a flat boulder and climb the face up
and right.
13. Little Big Time
Climb in the middle of the column.
14. Do Fries Go With That Shake
Climb the very long face right of the arete.
V0+
F R
by Matt Wilder
23. The Dud
V1
24. Ants Invasion
V0+
SDS - Start with good incut crimps and climb the face.
SDS -Start with a lightning hold left of a few rocks and climb the
really short face.
V2
25. Nobody Gets Out Of Here Alive
V2
26.
SDS -Start at the very end of the cave, climb the roof with big huecos
and top out.
V4
No One Gets Out of Jaxons Alive
SDS - Start in Nobody... and traverse right to finish in Andrea.
8
27. Pull The Pin
Climb the alcove.
V1
13
Trac II
The Potatoes
Walk on the right side of the meadow. Near the end you'll pass a small "cliff" band and you'll see
5 boulders on the top of the plateau, scramble up a small gully and you're in front of Daily Dick Dose.
to the Gymnasium
To #9 and 10
15
17
1
11,12 13
2
8
18
19
3
14
13
12
24
8
7
9
23
To the meadow
5
4
11
chains
21
20
15
1. The Used Blade
V0+
2. Hidden Pleasure
9. Unknown
V11
SDS - Climb the left side of the steep arete with small crimps.
If you exit right it's V6.
F R
F R
V7
Climb the steep arete. The sit start is V8.
10. La Cucaracha
V1
Hueco and top out.
F R
3. Dry Shave
V1
F R
4. Call Me Nick
V3
Climb on the right of the face.
11. Unknown
hard
SDS - Start really low on a big hole, go for the left-facing sidepull
then move right of the boulder and up to a flake.
F R
12. Pump Full of Semen
V9
SDS - Start as the previous one but go left to top out in The Reject.
F R
5. Trac II
V2
Climb the middle of the face.
F R
V10
SDS - Start on the small flake and traverse right to finish in
Babyface. Need beta? Get Free Hueco.
F R
V7
SDS - Start in the back of the cave on 2 good edges. Climb the roof
to the big undercling and pull over the lip.
F R
V6
Start right of Daily Dick Dose on a good flake and go up to the
undercling of the Daily Dick Dose.
V5
SDS - Start as the previous one but traverse right without using the
boulder behind.
F R
V1
SDS - Start in the alcove formed by 2 boulders and climb the crack.
F R
5. Women In Chains
V0
F R
6. Men In Chains
V0
Start with the flake and up the right-leaning hand crack.
F R
V1
Start with high holds above the lip, left of the boulder, and pull
over to climb the slab.
F R
14. Unknown
F R
F R
3. Right to the Pleasure
F R
13. The Reject
V4
SDS - Start on the sloper, go to the gaston then the other sloper.
4. Chain Gang
F R
SDS - Start on the big flake and go to the pocket.
1
V10
Overhanging face in the pit left of the chains. Go up and right
on huecos.
F R
F R
Climb the obvious sharp flake.
2. Babyface
F R
1. Loaded With Power
14
F R
8. Fresh Ass
6
22
16
7. Daily Dick Dose
7
10
4
5
6
6. Flying Marcel
2,3
16
V0
Climb the arete.
7. Bawl and Chain
V0+
Good holds up the tall face.
easy
15. Don't Know Squat
V1
SDS - Start with the horizontal crack and pull over the lip.
F R
16. Squatter's Right
9. The Hog
V7
16. Bitch Slap
easy
Start 8 feet right of the previous one, standing on a small rock.
Climb the highball face.
F R
11. Various
V0s
Many problems up the Baby Baker boulder.
17. O'Grady's
F R
12
V1
Just left of the plant.
F R
20. The Big Lips
V1
SDS - Climb along a thin crack.
F R
21. Picatchou
V0+
SDS - Climb with knobs and crimps.
F R
22. Eye Gouger
V0F R
V1
F R
Start on really good crimps. Also a SDS.
V0+
The middle line.
Climb with big huecos.
Start with 2 crimps, up to the hueco and up the face.
13. Mrs. Potatohead
V3
Start left hand with a good sidepull and climb the left side of the
bulge.
F R
F R
12. Mr. Potatohead
V2
SDS - Start with a crimp in a hueco and climb left and then up on
slopers.
F R
F R
10. Wild Card
V2
SDS - Start on big huecos and traverse left on more huecos. Top
out right of the plant on easy but high wall.
F R
19. Cactus Casual
SDS - 25 feet in the corridor there is a spray paint on the right and
an overhanging prow on the left. Slap your way up the prow.
There is also a variation that goes right (V5).
V3
SDS - Start really low in the cave, climb the roof and top out.
15. High Frie
SDS - Start with jugs at the lip and pull over the small roof.
F R
F R
V2
SDS - Choose your holds and climb the steep arete of the leaning
boulder.
F R
18. Suckah Inna Yucca
F R
8. Unknown
14. French Frie
V1
23. Southern Variation
V2
SDS - Start on jug, go right to sloper and climb left of the
alcove without the right wall.
F R
24. Blue's Clues
V1
SDS - Start on big hueco, traverse left and top out left of the crack.
Without using the left boulders for your feet.
9
The New Meadow
The Gymnasium
To get to the Gymnasium you can either walk in the corridor between The Potatoes and Big Time Boulder (easy
to find but you'll get squeezed at the end) or walk over the cliff on the right side of The Potatoes to walk down
in the Gymnasium.
1
2
3
4
8 9 10 11 12 13
5 6,7
14 15 16 17
18,19
Access
13
(direction page 10)
17
Access
24 23
20 21 22
12
22 21 20 19,18
16
15 14
11 10
9
8 7
squeezed
exit.
1
26
easy exit
31
25
F R
V0
Climb the first line of big huecos. Move right at the top out.
Almost a solo.
F R
2. Plus Model
V0+
Start on the second line of huecos and move left to a few huecos far
apart.
F R
3. 40 Ounce King
V0
Climb up to the 9 feet high hueco and climb with flakes.
12. World Without Lawyers
V6
13. Jimmy Hats On Parade
14. The Belly Bomber
V2
Start 6 feet left of the black streak, climb up to big huecos and traverse
left to finish in The William's Throw.
F R
V1
Start as Punk Funk but climb straight up to a scary top out.
F R
8. Rhymes With Rich
V3
Start with the good edge 5 feet high and climb right with small huecos to
finish on the jug at the top of the streak.
F R
9. Only The Little People...
V2
SDS- Start with 2 huecos, lock off to more and traverse left to finish
as Rhymes With Rich.
F R
10. Gag Reflex
V3
V1
16. Continuous Discriminating
Climb up and right with huecos.
F R
17. On A Bender
V1
Start with huge holds under the horizontal crack and climb up and right
to the scoop.
F R
18. Leapin' Lizards
V5
Start at the 3 feet high step, between 2 plants and find your way
up the bulge and the scoop.
F R
19. Burn, Baby, Burn
V8
Start as Leapin' Lizards but traverse left all the wall.
F R
20. Celebrity Simulator
V0+
F R
21. Return Business
V0
V0
22. Thumper
V0-
6 feet left of the jamed boulder.
Directions to New Meadow
To get to the New Meadow walk up to the top of the chains and make a right. Look for the Mousie Adame
graffiti on your left and a small awkward passage. Walk in there and you'll find this secret place.
V10
Start on an undercling and go to the good flat hold just at the lip,
traverse left for 3 feet and up with the sidepull-undercling, then
traverse back right to a big flake.
F R
V1
SDS - Start with a right-facing jug and climb with sharp crimps and
huecos.
F R
5. King Cobra
V6
SDS - Slap your way up the steep prow. Step back once on the flake.
F R
6. Rudy
V8
Start with the pinch, standing left of the boulder and move right to
finish in King Cobra.
F R
7. Losers Dyno
medium
SDS - Start on a rock with high undercling and climb the face without
the scoop out left.
F R
V3
SDS - Start with a big sidepull-pinch and traverse right and up in
the middle of the face.
F R
9. Schwerer Gustov
F R
F R
3. Penis Puss
8. Everybody Wins
Ledge, undercling, hueco.
medium
Sidepull left-hand and gaston right-hand. Go up the flake.
F R
4. Rate my Poo
Climb with sidepull along a thin crack.
Lunge to the lip.
The left line.
V1
V10
SDS - Start on the lowest sidepull slopers and do not use the
pedestal for your feet.
F R
10. Shower Cap
V8/9
Start in wide undercling under the roof, go out via slopers and crimps
and exit right, not direct (V6), up steep face.
F R
11. Speed Bump
V7
SDS - Start low on the prow in the roof, climb it to the sloper and
top out.
12. The Pudgy Pussack
V4
SDS - Start on the very left undercling and go out right to the
big hueco.
13. Bear Can Traverse
V9
Start way out left and traverse right. Finishes by touching the beer
can in the crack without using the opposing wall.
10
17. Beach Time
V0
SDS - Start with the arete and traverse left and top out in the scoop.
F R
2. Unknown
F R
Start with left-facing holds, go to a high slopey hueco and traverse
left and up on big huecos.
F R
7. Bad Axe
V1
15. The Bellyful Of...
V0
Start on sharp flakes and climb the tall face, left of the arete.
Climb the huecos up to the high left-facing corner.
V1
SDS - Start with the right-face sidepull and go up to the undercling.
F R
1. The Chiken Route
F R
V4
SDS - Start with a good crimp right-hand and climb the middle of
the face.
16. Mothertrucker
V0
The right line.
F R
6. Punk Funk
30
Climb up to the wide hueco. Scary top out.
V5
29
F R
F R
Start with juggy hueco and up the small scoop.
5. The William's Throw
V0
15. Shrimp Fishing
The middle line.
F R
4. Suck In Dick
28
F R
F R
1. High And Mighty
4
5
2 3
32
27
11. Solid Pleasure
6
14. The Sweat Shop
V2
SDS - Start just left of the bush on two sidepull, go up to the crimp.
18. Gumby Traverse
V1
SDS - Traverse right with the crack all the way to the jug and top out.
19. Gumby Direct
V0
SDS - Start as the previous one but go straight in the hueco.
20. Money Sucks
V2
SDS - Start in the low hueco and climb by the thin crack.
21. German Hatery
V3
Climb just left of the crack.
22. Fici's
V1
SDS - The hand crack.
23. Blackmail
V3
Climb to the big sidepull and top out.
24. The Two Stars Arete.
V2
SDS - Start on the left-facing sidepull and climb the arete.
25. Anal Intruder #10
V5
SDS - Start low on horizontal pinches and climb through cool
features and top out. (Also known as Lobster Claws)
26. Unknown
V10
Start in Lobster, go left to the bad undercling and go out left.
27. Sharma Problem
V0
Climb the dihedral.
28. Look At Me
V1
Start on the flakes and climb the highball crack.
29. Meadow Dyno
V0
Start on huecos and climb up and left. Also a variation straight
from the undercling.
30. Spooky
V1
Start with 2 eyes and climb with jugs all the way up if you dare.
31. Mandalahaha
V3
The right side of the slab which is not a slab at all.
32. La Delicate
The left side of the slab.
V3
11