July 1–5 Summary Report

Transcription

July 1–5 Summary Report
2009
Summary Report
WHAT DOES
HALF A MILLION DOLLARS
WORTH OF MEDIA COVERAGE
LOOK LIKE?
The Secret Ingredient–every recipe has one. From fried okra to gumbo to
bread pudding, the "Secret Ingredient: Creole to Soul" Media Familiarization
Tour took tier one writers and bloggers on an epicurean adventure to take
part in the creation of signature Louisiana dishes and to encounter the tradition, cultures, personalities, innovations, and secrets that give Louisiana's
food its unique flavor.
{THE EXPERIENCE}
Five writers and one photojournalist participated in the tour, which coincided
with the ESSENCE MUSIC FESTIVAL®. Participating chefs hosted the journalists either in their kitchens or at the New Orleans School of Cooking and
helped create a hands-on interactive experience, culminating in a dinner-party
style gathering to enjoy the prepared meal and discuss traditions, recipes,
and so on.
Participating restaurants and chefs:
• Dooky Chase Restaurant – Leah Chase and Edgar Chase, IV
• Willie Mae's Restaurant – Kerry Seaton
• Li'l Dizzy's Cafe – Kevin Belton
Position Louisiana as a Top 3 national
culinary destination
July 1-5, 2009, coinciding with the
ESSENCE MUSIC FESTIVAL®
New Orleans
Writers from TheRoot.com, Black
Enterprise, Nashville Arts Magazine,
Nashville Scene, Chicago Sun-Times,
and SoulofAmerica.com
$32,565.36
• Two Sister's Kitchen – Doris Finister
• Brennan's – Lazone Randolph
Guests on the tour also experienced other sites and activities, such as
Zydeco dance lessons at Mid City Rock 'n' Bowl, a tour of the Global Green
USA housing project, and concerts at the ESSENCE MUSIC FESTIVAL®.
$550,192 (to date)
Summary Report
{RESULTS}
The following are the results of the tour to date. Note: PR value is estimated using
an industry-standard formula that calculates the equivalent cost of paid media.
Other inherent advantages of editorial coverage–for instance, that it comes from
an objective third-party–are not reflected in the formula.
Black Enterprise
Since 1970, this magazine has been the definitive source of information for and
about African American business markets and leaders. It reaches 4.3 million
readers each month.
COVERAGE: Two-page editorial in the September 2009 issue
PR VALUE: $210,000
Nashville Scene
This alternative newsweekly reports and opines on music, arts, entertainment,
and local and state politics. It is distributed at restaurants and other high-traffic
locations.
COVERAGE: Four-part series of blog posts on the newspaper's website
(Note: 2 additional blogs to be posted during Mardi Gras 2010)
PR VALUE: $8,379
Nashville Arts Magazine
This publication covers the heart and soul of the arts and artists. It is distributed
for free at galleries, bookstores, hotels, and restaurants in Nashville, Chattanooga, Memphis, and other cities in Tennessee as well as Southern Kentucky.
COVERAGE: Article TBD
PR VALUE: Value TBD
Chicago Sun-Times
One of the ten most-read dailies in the nation, this paper reaches over 2.3 million
people on a weekly basis.
COVERAGE: Five-part series of blog posts on the newspaper's website
PR VALUE: $175,336
SoulofAmerica.com
This website is the pioneer online publisher of black cultural travel information.
The site receives millions of impressions each month and has been named the
best travel website by the Black Web Awards for the last three years.
COVERAGE: Online article
PR VALUE: $134,750
CuisineNoirMag.com
This unique and entertaining publication is the first food and wine lifestyle magazine for African Americans. It covers both culinary traditions and new cultural
experiences.
COVERAGE: Online article
PR VALUE: $21,727
TheRoot.com
A subsidiary of the Washington Post, this daily online magazine is a primary news
and lifestyle destination for African Americans and has a highly engaged audience of 1.3 million unique users.
COVERAGE: Article TBD
PR VALUE: Value TBD
Position Louisiana as a Top 3 national
culinary destination
July 1-5, 2009, coinciding with the
ESSENCE MUSIC FESTIVAL®
New Orleans
Writers from TheRoot.com, Black
Enterprise, Nashville Arts Magazine,
Nashville Scene, Chicago Sun-Times,
and SoulofAmerica.com
$32,565.36
$550,192 (to date)
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Dispatch from New Orleans: Dinner at Rambla
By Carrington Fox in Travel Advisory
Thursday, Jul. 9 2009 @ 12:24PM
Guest blogger Kami Rice contributed this
post, the first in a series of reports from
New Orleans that will run on Bites.
I wasn't sure what I was getting myself into
when I climbed aboard the Creole to Soul
junket here in the Big Easy, a place where
words like Creole and Cajun are
commonplace in kitchens and elsewhere.
I'm Southern born and raised, but my
family stock hails from the Midwest, land
of casseroles and meat-and-potatoes (not
to be confused with meat-and-threes, of
course). My family ate Midwestern growing
up. Not Creole. The burning question:
Would my palate be pleased?
But if tonight was any precursor to what will follow, all fear is gone. Our little
band of journalists gathered at Rambla, the restaurant connected to our very nice
International House Hotel digs, for what was supposed to be just a get-the-details
meal. We weren't really on the note-taking, photo-shooting, taste-testing job yet.
But then out rolled dish after dish of delectableness. Granted, this particular
delectableness isn't technically of the Creole variety but is produce from a
contemporary French and Spanish family tree--apropos given this city's colonial
history.
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My favorites among our evening fare: Medjool dates wrapped in house-made
smoked bacon and stuffed with Valdeon blue cheese and Marcona almonds.
Patatas bravas (crisp spiced potatoes)--crisp in all the right places--were a
sturdy vehicle for smoked paprika and salt and aioli. Gambas ajillo (garlic
shrimp) were seasoned cold with salt, smoked paprika, extra virgin olive oil and
garlic, then roasted and finished with a bright accent of lemon and parsley.
Topped off with a stroll through the French Quarter, a snack of beignets, a ferry
ride across the Mississippi and a brief tutorial about levees, we were off to
auspicious start in our quest for the Soul of Creole.
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Sous chef Kristen Olsen greeted us during a pause in the arrival of new dishes to
our tall-chaired square table and noted that "a lot of our food is technically very
easy. Sourcing the food is the main thing." Chef Scott Maki, at the helm for twothirds of the restaurant's nine months, was away for the night.
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S L says:
Movies in the Park 2009
not really any of my business, just abject curiosity - why is there a series
of reports from New Orleans running here?
Posted On: Thursday, Jul. 9 2009 @ 1:09PM
Carrington Fox
says:
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A fair question. Local writer Kami Rice offered to share her dispatches
with Bites, and since we're chained to our desks this summer, we jumped
at the chance to travel vicariously.
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Dispatch from New Orleans: Breakfast at Li'l
Dizzy's
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Wednesday, Jul. 15 2009 @ 1:03PM
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Guest blogger Kami Rice contributed this post,
the second in her series of reports from New
Orleans that will run on Bites.
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This morning we headed to the bank...to eat.
The newest Li'l Dizzy's Café, the one that's not
the original one (that one's in New Orleans'
Treme neighborhood and has walls covered
with photos of luminaries who've partaken of
its chow), is providing Creole cuisine for the businessmen and women of the
central business district. There used to be bank tellers where there are now
bartenders. The only money in the vault is the cash in the wallets of the folks
eating at its table.
According to owner Wayne Baquet, the cuisine Li'l Dizzy's serves is the real Creole
deal. The Treme area was built by Creoles of color, and this is their food, Wayne
told me. "We cook it the way it's been cooked for 50 years." Which is becoming a
lost art. There are very few real Creole soul restaurants left in New Orleans, he
explained.
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Wayne's family has been in the restaurant business since the early '40s. Wayne
took over from his dad, who had taken over from Wayne's great-aunt. The family
touch continues, from the granddaughter and sister-in-law who work for him to
the restaurant's namesake, a grandson Wayne is clearly very proud of. Most of the
recipes are his wife's recipes. Both sides of the family are Creole, and our breakfast
was a decadent display of that tradition: grits, biscuits, jambalaya omelets, crab
meat omelets, spicy sausage and "lost bread"--French toast covered with
strawberries and bananas.
Amid so much family tradition it's easy to remember that dining is about more
than just food. Chef Kevin Belton said it best: "It's not so much what's on the table
as who's at the table." At Li'l Dizzy's, that's a recipe you can bank on.
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Dispatch from New Orleans: Two Sisters
Kitchen's Shrimp & Okra
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Despite a trip to the hospital on Wednesday (to
have a stubborn splinter cut out), chef Dorothy
"Doris" Finister of Two Sisters Kitchen met us
at the New Orleans School of Cooking's kitchen
on Thursday afternoon to tutor us in the
preparation of her signature shrimp-and-okra
dish. It's one of those recipes that doesn't come
with precise measurements. Which adds to its authenticity--and raises it from
science to art.
From sautéing diced onions to pouring on "red gravy" (as Doris calls the tomato
sauce) to adding shrimp and finally okra, Doris let us "help" make her famous
dish, emphasizing the importance of cooking just long enough to keep the okra
from becoming stringy and ropey. Served on white rice, the dish held up to both
the scent of its advance advertising (which isn't a given when good smells waft
from kitchens) and the admonition against stringy okra.
Like this shrimp-and-okra specialty, which Doris learned from her aunt, Two
Sisters Kitchen is a family affair. Seventy-year-old Doris and her late husband
bought it in the 1970s from the original sisters, who asked them not to change the
name because "it will bring you good luck." Four of Doris' five children still work
at the Fourth Ward restaurant, where any given day finds a motley crew of diners-from neighbors to tourists, from police officers to wandering journalists, from
casually clad to business suits--all of whom wear the look of satisfied customers.
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The recipe for for Two Sisters' Shrimp & Okra is posed after the jump.
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Chef Doris Finister's Recipe for Two Sisters' Shrimp & Okra
adult entertainment (791)
Ingredients
Creole seasoning
Green onions
Regular onions
Garlic powder (optional)
Tomato sauce (not paste)
Shrimp
Okra
Directions
Chop onions until they are fine, then sauté until they are cooked but not brown.
Add one whole can of traditional tomato sauce and let cook for a while.
Add shrimp, then cover sauce pan to let cook on a slow fry.
Once shrimp are cooked, add okra and Creole seasoning to the sauce pan last.
Be careful not to let okra cook too long and get "slimey" or "ropey."
Cook until you can see that the dish is done.
Serve and enjoy!
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Dispatch from New Orleans: Funk and Flambé
at Brennan's Breakfast
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Wednesday, Jul. 22 2009 @ 6:42AM
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Guest blogger Kami Rice
contributed this post, the
fourth in her series of reports
from New Orleans.
Brennan's wooed me before I
even stepped through its doors.
The pinkish hue of the exterior
walls greeted me warmly in the
morning sunlight, and the spell
continued inside the famous
restaurant, where pleasant yet
professional servers guided
our group through our order.
The leisurely breakfast began with morning cocktails from the roster of "Eye
Openers," and I chose the Mr. Funk of New Orleans, created in memory of the
restaurant's late cellar master, Herman Funk. (If you want your own Mr. Funk,
pour 3 oz. of champagne into a stemmed glass, then add 2.5 oz. of cranberry juice
and 0.5 oz. of peach schnapps. Garnish with a strawberry.)
I followed the Funk with turtle soup, baked apples with double cream and gumbo.
By the time the entrées arrived, I was smitten. While the Eggs Sardou was very
good, it was the Brennan's original Eggs Hussarde that won my heart: poached
eggs atop Holland rusks and Canadian bacon with marchand de vin sauce, all
topped with Hollandaise sauce.
For dessert--yes, breakfast at Brennan's comes with dessert--Chef Lazone
Randolph left the kitchen long enough to prepare Bananas Foster tableside, so we
could taste the famous dessert--sauteed bananas with brown sugar, cinnamon
and banana liqueur flamed with rum and served à la mode--at the place where it
was invented. The seduction was complete.
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During the flaming alcohol flourish portion of the Bananas Foster
preparation, our server set his jacket sleeve on fire and ripped the
tablecloth off of our table to wrap himself up in to put it out.
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I ate breakfast at Brennan's 20 years ago with a group of college buddies.
We were all too young to appreciate it, but had heard it was the thing to
do.
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Jeanette Valentine greeted by Chef Kevin Belton of Lil' Dizzy’s, New Orleans
TALES FROM A CULINARY ADVENTURE
IN THE BIG EASY
By Jeanette Valentine of SoulOfAmerica.com
When I think of New Orleans, I think of heavy blues beats and old-style jazz riffs
wafting through a sweltering French Quarter … I think of 3 a.m. powdered-sugar
showers falling from hot beignets at Café du Monde … I think of purple and gold and
black beads tossed into air filled with the shouts of gliding Kings and Queens … But
more than anything, when I think of New Orleans, I think of hearty, spicy Creole
dishes and classic soul food that fill my spirit as much as my stomach.
City:
1
Guests:
Rooms:
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Aug 2009
14
Check-out:
Aug 2009
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1
During a recent dream trip to the Big Easy, I was able to take a culinary tour of
restaurants serving some of the finest fare the city has to offer. We made the rounds
mostly in the morning, giving us particular insight into how New Orleans lifts breakfast
and brunch to high art. Home base was the International House, a tony boutique
hotel with an attentive staff located two blocks from the French Quarter.
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Whether your plans lean toward romance or raucousness, the right food can only
enhance the experience. Below are restaurants worthy of a visit. Just loosen your belt
and bring a healthy appetite. You’ll be in for a treat.
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Willie Mae's mouthwatering Fried Chicken and tasty sides
Willie Mae’s Scotch House
2401 Saint Ann Street
504-822-9503
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Step through the door of Willie Mae’s Scotch House, and the aroma of catfish
sizzling in hot oil wraps itself around you. The wait staff weaves through the crowded
dining room serving Southern dishes – like the cornmeal-breaded fish fillets –
reminiscent of Sunday supper at Big Mama’s house: pork chops fried to a crispy
toasted brown, smoky red beans topped by mounds of flaky white rice, delicate
scoops of potato salad dusted with paprika and tender green beans studded with
chunks of white potatoes.
And then, there’s the chicken.
On any given day, a glance around the restaurant reveals that fried chicken – hot
and crisp straight from the fryer – outnumber all other dishes on the tables. Many
soul food connoisseurs swear that Willie Mae’s serves some the best fried chicken in
the country. It’s an accolade that invites high expectations. And it delivers.
The slightly crunchy golden skin covers succulent chicken laced with a zesty blend of
spices. The seasoning is strong enough to give the flavor a kick without overpowering
the taste. Willie Mae’s version of this soul food staple avoids the pitfalls common to
restaurant fried chicken – overly greasy crusts, pinkish flesh near the bone or a too
heavy hand with the salt. The restaurant’s chef, Kerry Seaton, gets the mix of crispy
skin, tender insides and just-so spicing exactly right.
Little wonder. Kerry is the great granddaughter of the restaurant’s founder and
owner, Willie Mae Seaton, who opened a bar in 1957 that she expanded into the
restaurant in 1972. Hurricane Katrina all but destroyed the Scotch House in 2005,
and the younger Chef Seaton took over for the elder Chef Seaton after the newly
renovated restaurant re-opened in 2007. Willie Mae Seaton, just seven years shy of a
century old, still stops by occasionally, according to her great granddaughter, who
marvels at the matriarch’s career longevity in the kitchen.
“She used to come in here everyday and make it happen. And to have the guests
say, “You know what? That was the best fried chicken I’ve ever ate in my life,” made
it worthwhile,” said Chef Seaton.
At 29, she’s putting her own stamp on the menu. Pork-chop lovers can appreciate
two additions – a Country-Style version with the meat dipped in egg wash and rolled
in flour before frying and a Chicken-fried chop, coated with the same secret batter
that makes the chicken special. Chef Seaton occasionally dishes up collard greens.
She can only go so far with variation, though.
“I always try to bring other things on the menu,” she says. “Like sometimes, I
have baked fish or baked chicken. But when…the line is out the door, they’re not
coming here for that. They’re coming here for the fried chicken.”
Back in the dining room, muffled conversations mix with the clink of silverware.
Waiters and waitresses are sliding plates piled high with food onto tables, whisking
away empty dishes and topping off glasses with iced tea tangy enough to curl your
toes.
Diners with room for dessert can choose from a variety of offerings, including bread
pudding and strawberry or turtle cheesecake. The latter is especially enticing with
chocolate rivulets dripping down the sides onto walnut halves and chocolate chips
swimming in caramel.
Even hours after lunchtime, Willie Mae’s is packed. A friend who stopped by at 2
one afternoon found the line snaking out the door and around the corner, almost 30people deep.
Trust me. It’s worth the wait.
*
*
*
Nothing is left to chance with Chef Kevin Belton's Gumbo ingredients at Lil' Dizzy's
Lil' Dizzy’s at the Whitney
610 Poydras Street
504-212-5656
Strawberry French Toast at Lil’ Dizzy’s Café at the Whitney should come with a
warning: “The establishment bears no responsibility for your swooning and falling to
the floor in spasms of ecstasy after tasting this breakfast entrée.”
A hint of vanilla infuses the thick slices of bread, and the tang from a chunky sauce
of fresh strawberries contrasts perfectly with the sweetness of maple syrup served on
the side. The toast’s smooth texture strikes the right balance between chewy and
soft, with each bite firm to the teeth yet still seeming to melt in your mouth. As I
swallowed, I closed my eyes and savored a sweet buttery flavor that lingered on my
tongue forever…uh, I mean until the next bite.
Chef Kevin Belton credits his grandmother for the recipe, which she created from
days-old, unpreserved french bread. “Lost bread,” she called it, and he remembers
her setting aside loaves to dry out specifically for french toast. (He also makes a
mean bread pudding using lost bread as the base).
At Lil’ Dizzy’s, you can request the french toast topped by bananas instead of
strawberries, and each order comes with a side of bacon, sausage or ham. It’s one of
many dishes that make your taste buds turn somersaults.
For a morning version of a New Orleans staple, try the Jambalaya Omelet. Pocketed
into the firm egg mixture is a fusion of green peppers, onions, sausage and shrimp
that burst with Creole flavor. Just the right amount of seasoning gives the andouille
sausage, which can be ordered separately, a spicy zing. And old standbys like bacon,
scrambled eggs and grits don’t disappoint.
Not quite rivaling the food but also impressive is the Whitney Building, a former
bank where the restaurant resides. Beaux Arts architecture – think thick marbled
pillars, octagon-shaped mosaic tiles and a ceiling soaring 30 feet up – dominates a
dining room drenched in sunlight. The banking theme lends whimsy: you can glimpse
the kitchen through a counter window labeled “Paying and Receiving Teller,” see a
1920s bank robbery in progress in a golden-toned wall mural and reserve an elegant
table for 10 within an actual vault.
Almost as appealing as the food and atmosphere is Chef Belton. Big and cuddly
with a great gift of gab, he makes you feel like a life-long friend. You’ll feel
comfortable inviting him into your own kitchen, and handing over your utensils. Later
in the day, I was lucky enough to watch him in action at the New Orleans School of
Cooking, where he walked us through the steps of making gumbo.
He demonstrated how flour and oil stirred continuously over high heat will produce
an excellent roux – the base mixture for most Louisiana cooking – in just minutes.
Continuous stirring is the key, he said.
“When mother or grandmother made a roux, you had 10 minutes to do whatever
you wanted. They weren’t going to leave the stove to answer the phone, go to the
door,” he recalled. “I was a professional bed jumper. I knew from the smell when it
was time to dismount, fix that cover and get to another room.”
Combining fresh andouille sausage and plump shrimp, the “trinity” of chopped green
peppers, onions and celery and seasoning that included the all-important file, his
gumbo was rich and flavorful. It was a special treat for me because this Creole dish
is my favorite food in the world.
In response to a question about his own favorite dish, he said, “I just like to watch
people eat. So whatever your favorite dish is, that’s one of my favorite things to
prepare.”
*
*
*
Entrance to Two Sisters Restaurant
Two Sisters Restaurant
223 North Derbigny Street
504-524-0056
Before visiting Two Sisters Restaurant, I thought I had sampled every calorie-rich,
cholesterol-laden, soul-satisfying Southern food that New Orleans had to offer. But
the breakfast menu at this teal-colored, clapboard restaurant in the fourth ward listed
a dish from my childhood that I had yet to taste in the Big Easy: Liver.
To those who fail to share my enthusiasm for iron-rich organ meat (and that
includes most folks I know), be assured that Two Sisters excels in all manner of
Southern cooking. Thanks to gracious companions who offered nibbles from their
breakfast plates, I can attest to the light fluffiness of the pancakes; the dark,
smokiness of the bacon; the creamy consistency of the grits and the buttery flakiness
of the biscuits.
But the liver was my favorite. Nestled in a Goliath plate of grits and accompanied
by sautéed onions and a rich, brown gravy boasting just enough lumps, the two thick
slices were fork tender. (The robust taste reminded me of sitting at a yellow Formica
table, my hair in pigtails, devouring one of many beloved dishes prepared by my
mother.)
By mid-morning, customers had filled the dining room, which seats about 70, to
near capacity. Afternoon crowds are just as large, taking advantage of a more
extensive menu that includes the usual soul food standbys: fried chicken, neck bones,
candied yams, potato salad, cabbage, collard greens and chitlins. A specialty of Chef
Doris Finister’s is Shrimp and Okra, a dish she’s been credited with bringing to New
Orleans when the restaurant was under different ownership.
“’The people who owned the place said, (customers) weren’t going to buy that.
They weren’t going to eat that,’” she recalls. “I said, ‘Well, okay, but I’m going to
put it on the menu and see how it goes.’ And that’s one of our best sellers.”
I understand why Shrimp and Okra is a favorite after watching Chef Finister prepare
the dish at the New Orleans School of Cooking earlier in the week. With an assurance
honed from more than 40 years in the kitchen, she sautéed the onions, then the okra
and then added tomato sauce, also known as gravy.
Next came the seasonings and finally the shrimp, all lovingly stirred, but not long
enough to make the okra “ropey.” I’m not a big okra fan because of the “ropey-ness”
issue, but I thoroughly enjoyed this creation. Simmered until the sauce takes on a
reddish golden color, the layers of tomato, spices and shrimp combine for a hearty
piquant flavor that had me going back for seconds.
Chef Finister oversees the Two Sisters kitchen with three adult daughters playing
supporting roles. The “two sisters” were the former owners who wanted the name
kept after they sold it to Chef Finister and her husband. For good luck, they said. A
glance around the packed restaurant shows that the previous owners knew exactly
what they were talking about.
*
*
*
Dooky Chase's masterful Shrimp Clemenceau
Dooky Chase Restaurant
2301 Orleans Avenue
504-821-0535
http://www.dookychaserestaurant.com
Travelers seeking a triple dose of African-American culture in New Orleans should
head to Dooky Chase Restaurant. Historically, activists discussed civil rights strategy
inside the white-roofed, brick building in the 1960s. Aesthetically, a wide array of
African-American art hang in the spacious dining rooms, which are painted bright hues
of red, yellow and green.
And from a culinary perspective, the restaurant serves food of such quality that
owner and family matriarch Leah Chase has earned the title “Queen of Creole
Cuisine.”
Over the years, the food community has bestowed a mountain of accolades onto
Chef Chase. In July 2009 alone, the Southern Food and Beverage Museum named its
largest Louisiana gallery after her, she received an honorary doctorate from Johnson
and Wales University, and the Louisiana Restaurant Association named her
Restaurateur of the Year.
And she’s keeping the food artistry in the family. Chase is passing the torch to her
29-year-old grandson, Edgar “Dooky” Chase IV. In early 2009, he completed an
eight-month culinary training program at the prestigious Cordon Bleu in Paris.
“I’m more confident in what I’m doing,” Dooky IV says of how the trip abroad
affected his cooking. One dish the younger Chase has perfected since returning is
Lamb Tiana, a double-cut lamb chop, served with a garnish of mushroom, spinach and
a tomato concasse.
“I’m putting my touch on the menu, but I still have to get it all signed off by the
boss,” he says inclining his head toward Chef Chase, who is whipping up a colorful
Shrimp Clemenceau in the kitchen. “She outworks us all.”
After hearing a bit of the story behind the Chase family, I was eager to taste the
fruits of their labor. Opting for the buffet lunch allowed me to sample as many dishes
as possible. The buffet was laid out in a yellow dining room lit by bright sunrays
bursting through side windows.
Long connected tables carried barbecue ribs, fried chicken, collard greens with ham
hocks, macaroni and cheese, candied yams, cabbage…the dishes went on and on, and
I piled my plate high. The rich, well-seasoned food fulfilled my lofty expectations,
with the spicy fried chicken as my favorite.
At one point, diners had dished up the last spoonfuls of the buffet, and the crowd
had to bide its time for almost 20 minutes. It did so without much grumbling, and
staff finally paraded in serving trays brimming with more of Dookie’s finest.
Apparently, anticipation of food from the Creole Cuisine’s Queen within her hallowed
culinary domain was enough to soothe any potential complaints.
*
*
*
Saucier preparing Brennan's signature Bananas Foster
Brennan’s Restaurant
417 Royal Street
504-525-7023
http://www.brennansneworleans.com
Whoosh!
A giant lick of flame erupts from the sauté pan, injecting a touch of the theatrical
into the hushed, dignified atmosphere of Brennan’s. Diners applaud as Executive Chef
Lazone Randolf, a brother who started in the kitchen 43 years ago, works his magic
on Bananas Foster. Both he and sauciers like the one above never fail to delight the
dining room when preparing this dessert.
It's one of several signature dishes at Brennan’s, a grand dame of New Orleans
restaurants. Its ornate architecture, mirrored walls, muted conversation and
attentive, yet unobtrusive, wait staff evoke an understated, old-world elegance. I
shouldn’t have been surprised that breakfast as a three-course meal is an option. For
a trifecta of Brennan’s breakfast specialties, order the Turtle Soup as appetizer, Eggs
Hussard as entrée and the flaming Foster for dessert.
Or allow yourself plenty of time to pore over a menu that covers two pages in tiny
print and features almost 20 egg dishes alone. A suggested wine from the
restaurant’s exhaustive cellar is listed beneath each entrée.
I chose the Southern Baked Apple with Double Cream as my appetizer, expecting a
cobbler-like pastry. Instead, the waiter served a dark, brown-skinned intact baked
apple resting in a pool of cream. The subtle taste reminded me of a barely sweet,
cinnamony apple pie with a hint of vanilla ice cream. It was a whisper of a decadent
dessert.
A dining companion let me taste her Eggs Hussard, an intense dish that layers
Holland rusks, Canadian bacon, Marchand de Vin Sauce (made of wine, butter and
beef broth) and poached eggs, all topped by Hollandaise. That Eggs Benedict-like
model is replicated in a host of poached egg entrees.
Various ingredients include Cajun andouille sausage (Eggs Bayou Lafourche), fresh
fried trout (Eggs St. Charles) and crabmeat topped with brandy-cream sauce (Eggs La
Nouvelle Orleans), among many others. My favorite, Eggs Sardou, featured poached
eggs layered on artichoke bottoms and creamed spinach, drizzled with Hollandaise.
My choice for dessert was the Chocolate Suicide Cake, a dense chocolate confection
covered with sweet fudge icing. But I still enjoyed the Bananas Foster floorshow, only
lamenting that it signaled the near end to my Brennan’s dining experience.
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Digging in
Tasty morsels about Chicago's food scene
ABOUT THE BLOG
A new blog for the fattest of
days
Soaking up the Big Easy
SEARCH
By Janet Fuller on August 14, 2009 10:13 AM | Permalink | Comments (0)
By guest blogger and New York writer Seanan Forbes:
JANET RAUSA FULLER
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RECENT ENTRIES
Sun-Times Food editor Janet
Rausa Fuller is always thinking
about her next meal.
Soaking up the Big Easy
Bruni on Nightline; probably not
for weak stomachs
LISA DONOVAN
Top Chef Masters: 3-second
edition
Bring your own ... chair?
New book and a bunch of
cooking tips from Sara Moulton
For almost 20 years now,
reporter Lisa Donovan has been
hitting Chicago's neighborhood
markets and restaurants not
only for the best grub at the
best prices but also as a way to
understand the city's melting
pot.
JAMES SCALZITTI
Recently, a few New Orleans chefs invited me into their kitchens. I had expectations good (New Orleans' food tastes fantastic) - and bad (everybody knows that food in
NoLa features boatloads of fat).
And, as I couldn't stay in New Orleans forever, there was also the question of whether I
could replicate any of the tastes and textures at home.
!Watching Leah Chase run the kitchen of the renowned restaurant, Dooky Chase, 2301
Orleans Ave., I had to wonder whether the cuisine was healthier than its reputation.
Chase is 86 years old. While she shares stove-space with her grandson (Edgar Chase,
Cordon Bleu graduate and heir to the nickname "Dooky"), there's no doubt who's the
boss in her kitchen.
I want to be that healthy in my 80s, and - being greedy - also want to enjoy my meals
along the way. What's the reality behind New Orleans' cuisine?
!As it turns out, food in the Big Easy is really about company. Chef Kevin Belton, of Li'l
Dizzy's Café, 1500 Esplanade Avenue, New Orleans, says, "It doesn't matter what's on
the table. It matters who's around the table."
As Rhoda Morgenstern would
say, food is the first thing SunTimes Wire Service reporter
James Scalzitti remembers
liking that liked him back..
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Now, that was something anybody could bring home (without adding calories or taking
luggage space). So is local pride. All of the chefs said that the reason they came back
after Katrina was the city - its people and its culture. New Orleans' natives had an
obligation, one based in love: keep their home and its ways alive. The way they see it,
we should all support the places where we live.
People in New Orleans are proud of their city, their heritage and their food. This
includes seasonings (spicy flavors brought in by the slaves) and regional produce. When
chef Doris Finister, of Two Sisters Kitchen, 223 N. Derbigny St., makes gumbo, it
wouldn't occur to her to use anything but Gulf shrimp. The local shrimp are dense and
meaty, a world (and a gulf) away from the watery things most of us have eaten.
Every single chef assured me that substitutions were welcome in the pot. Allergic to
shrimp? Use chicken. Have a local butcher you really like? Go to him for sausage. Is
there a sale on local fish? Buy it. Is something fresh in the market? That's what you
should choose.
Seasonal eating isn't a trend or a rage; it's an intrinsic part of New Orleans cooking.
Cajun tomatoes, local blueberries, regional fish, okra ... If it's fresh, it's on the table.
When your stock is that good, you don't need to do much to it.
Chef John Besh (below) wasn't in town during my stay, but he gave the Sun-Times a
galley proof of his new cookbook. My New Orleans: The Cookbook will be released in
early October, and its author will be coming to Chicago on a book tour shortly thereafter.
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I'm glad to have it now. Lyle Allen, the executive director of the Green City Market,
reminds me that blueberries are in season - and at the Market.
More New Orleans recipes (with Market tips) are yet to come, but kick off the weekend
with indulgence, and feature dessert first. Besh's cookbook features a recipe for
blueberry sorbet. Healthy and tasty, it has a maximum of 1/2 cup of sugar in 12
portions. Given the quality of the fruit at the Green City Market, I'm betting I can leave
the sugar on the shelf.
Recipe after the jump.
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Blueberry Sorbet
MAKES 10 TO 12 SERVINGS
Sorbets often contain too much sugar and too much water. I love using fresh berries at
the peak of their ripeness to make very straightforward purees that can be frozen for
sorbet. I use the egg method to make sure the purees will freeze into a smooth sorbet
with intense fruit flavor.
4 pints blueberries
1/2 cup sugar, if needed
Puree the blueberries in a blender for several minutes. Strain the purée through a fine
sieve, pushing it through with a rubber spatula, into a medium bowl.
Test for the proper sugar content by floating a whole egg, shell and all, in the puree. If
the egg floats so that only a nickel-size portion of the egg is exposed at the surface of
the sorbet, there is enough natural sugar - no need to add more. If the egg sinks,
remove the egg and add up to 1/2 cup of sugar, blend, and retest with the egg. If it
floats too high in the puree, then add water, a bit at a time, until the egg sinks to the
correct height.
Pour the blueberry puree into the canister of an ice cream machine and freeze
according to the manufacturer's directions.
From My New Orleans: the cookbook, by John Besh
http://www.chefjohnbesh.com/
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Categories: Chefs, New Orleans, Recipes, Restaurants
Tags: besh, big, chefs, cuisine, easy, new orleans, seasonal, tastes
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Digging in
ABOUT THE BLOG
days
Bread pudding to fit any mood (or season)
By Janet Fuller on August 31, 2009 9:53 AM | Permalink | Comments (0)
By guest blogger and New York writer Seanan Forbes
JANET RAUSA FULLER
NEW ORLEANS -- The anniversary of Hurricane Katrina has been all over the news of
late, and the people of New Orleans are remembering - even more keenly than usual that disaster and its aftermath.
The gulf city has always made the most of what was available, and has never held with
waste. Chefs were swift to return to New Orleans after Katrina; they saw it as vital to put
food - good local food - back on the table. After all, there are few finer communities than
those that gather to share meals.
LISA DONOVAN
SEARCH
Thinking of bringing NoLa north, I turned to Lyle Allen, executive director of Chicago's
Green City Market, to turn New Orleans recipes into feasts that celebrate both New
Orleans' culture and Chicago's fabulous food supply.
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Bread pudding to fit any mood
(or season)
The chefs of New Orleans aren't big on postponing pleasure. Nobody gives a more
ebullient expression of that attitude than chef Kevin Belton of Li'l Dizzy's.
Trotter about town
In that chef's world, food and life are made for enjoying. If there's an ingredient you
don't like, substitute something else. Not too keen on spice? Tone it down. Don't like
that sausage? Use another. Make the food the way you like it, and make enough to
share, from starters to sweets.
Alinea opens virtual wine cellar
The greening of Chicago
restaurants
Virant heads to Kitchen Stadium
FOOD FINDS
pot.
JAMES SCALZITTI
Belton's bread pudding is a reason to save room for dessert. It's as far from the "slabs
of stale bread soaked in custard" standard as a New Orleans summer is from a Chicago
winter - although it's far easier to take than either extreme.
Instead of being cut into slices, the bread is crumbled. The small pieces meld and
become carriers for whatever flavors you want to add.
Belton's a big believer in tradition and creativity. Before handing over the recipe, he
draws a pencil line halfway down. From the line up (from bread through vanilla), the
ingredients are mandatory. After that, it is cook's choice. Belton grins as he lists some of
the things he's used in making bread pudding: chocolate, fruit, nuts, spices - and
broken-up chunks of pie.
When in NoLa, follow Belton's lead and use Hubig's Pies. They come in twelve flavors;
choose the one that fits your mood.
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Bring it closer to home with a trip to the Green City Market to get a Hoosier Mama Pie.
"Paula Haney [pictured] makes fabulous pies," Allen says. "She's renowned for her
apple pie." That may be true, but Allen especially likes Haney's chess pie, an old-school
vinegar pie. Enjoy the pie fresh, and crumble the leftovers (if there are any) into bread
pudding.
As to the mandatory
ingredients, Nordic
Creamery just brought
butter to the Market.
Allen says it's worth a
trip just to buy that
butter, and their cheese
is "just tremendous". It
would be good on that
apple pie - the part that
doesn't make it into the
pudding.
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Buy the best and use it
all. A true son of his city,
Belton would approve.
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Bread Pudding
MAKES 16 to 20 SERVINGS
1 (10-ounce) loaf of stale French bread, crumbled, or 6 to 8 cups of any type of bread
4 cups milk
2 cups sugar
8 tablespoons butter, melted
3 eggs
2 teaspoons vanilla
1 cup raisins
1 cup coconut
1 cup chopped pecans
1 teaspoon cinnamon
1 teaspoon nutmeg
Fast food (2)
Combine all ingredients. Mixture should be very moist but not soupy. Pour into buttered
9-by-12-inch baking dish or larger. Place into non-preheated oven. Bake at 350 degrees
for approximately 1 hour and 15 minutes, until top is golden brown. Serve warm with
whiskey sauce (recipe follows).
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Note: Everything after the vanilla is optional. Substitute anything that makes you happy:
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seasonal fruit, chunks of leftover pie or cake, chocolate chips or slabs, different spices this is play time.
Whiskey Sauce
8 tablespoons (1 stick) butter
1! cups powdered sugar
2 egg yolks
! cup bourbon (to taste)
Cream butter and sugar over medium heat until all butter is absorbed. Remove from
heat and blend in egg yolk. Pour in bourbon gradually to your own taste, stirring
constantly. Sauce will thicken as it cools. Serve warm over warm bread pudding.
Note: For a variety of sauces, just substitute your favorite fruit juice or liqueur to
complement your bread pudding.
Categories: Chefs, New Orleans, Recipes, Farmers markets
Tags: bread pudding, green city market, katrina, lyle allen, new orleans, pie, recipe
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Easy does it at famed New Orleans restaurant
Dooky Chase
By Janet Fuller on September 1, 2009 4:08 PM | Permalink | Comments (0)
JANET RAUSA FULLER
NEW ORLEANS -- From the outside, the famous New Orleans restaurant, Dooky
Chase, looks to be an unemarkable residence.
Like a space in a science fiction film, the restaurant at 2301 Orleans Ave. is larger on
the inside than the out. Expansive rooms have widely spaced, linen-clad tables. The
walls are hung with large pieces of elegantly framed art - art that a Chase braved
Katrina to save.
LISA DONOVAN
Dooky Chase is a true family business, headed by a small, energetic whirlwind of an
octogenarian chef. At 86, Leah Chase runs her kitchen with talent, humor and frequent
detours to the door, where patient customers wait to ask her to sign copies of The
Dooky Chase Cookbook.
Leah Chase's daughter and her namesake, a Juilliard graduate, works the front of the
house -- when she isn't singing at jazz club Snug Harbor. In the dining rooms, a
nephew serves food and stories. And, in the kitchen, a young Dooky Chase - Edgar
Chase IV, a graduate of Le Cordon Bleu in Paris - cooks alongside his grandmother.
There's no doubt who's at the helm of the good ship Dooky Chase. As grandmother and
grandson work, Leah Chase cheerfully thumps the young chef's arm, scolding and
directing him. "Add garlic. The people want more garlic." (He adds more garlic.)
pot.
The dish of the moment is Shrimp Clemenceau, a bright, uncomplicated item that brings
out the best of each ingredient without masking a thing.
Nothing needs to be hidden. The food at Dooky Chase is good ... good enough that
Barack Obama made a point of eating there last year.
JAMES SCALZITTI
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Chase dispenses spice and advice with the aplomb of a woman who knows her place
because she owns it. If you're allergic to shrimp, you can enjoy this dish: just use
chicken. If you don't like chicken, substitute steak or lamb or whatever makes your plate
and palate happy.
Versatility is key. New Orleans isn't about making do with what's at hand; it's about
making the best with it.
What's the dishy best in Chicago right now? Lyle Allen, executive director of the Green
City Market, is always ready to talk substitutes. He leads with Twin Oak Meats , which
has fine pork - no steroids, no growth hormones.
If you want to go with steak, then Heartland Meats humanely raises Piedmontese cattle,
producing beef that is tender and flavorful.
At Mint Creek Farm, a small family farm in Stelle, Ill., the lambs graze on alfalfa, grass
and clover. Free-range living leads to better meat.
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"It's amazing," Allen says. "I just love their sausage."
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Sausage Clemenceau? Why not?
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More than meats can be local. Allen says, "We have one of the best mushroom
providers in the Midwest: Eric Rose, with River Valley Ranch. Unbelievable variety of
mushrooms. He does a mixed bag for $10 - it's just my favorite thing."
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A fast, adaptable, one-pot dish that comes with love, laughter and a serious heritage That's a kitchen's favorite thing.
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Shrimp Clemenceau
MAKES 4 SERVINGS
1 stick butter
2 medium potatoes, peeled and diced small
2 pounds small shrimp, peeled and deveined
2 cloves garlic, finely chopped
1/2 cup button mushrooms
1 cup green peas
1/4 teaspoon chopped fresh parsley
1/3 cup white wine
Salt and pepper
Melt butter in 2-quart saucepan. Add potatoes. Cook 5 minutes
Add shrimp, garlic and mushrooms. Cook until shrimp are tender. Add peas, parsley and
wine. Salt and pepper to taste. Cook for 5 minutes.
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Elevate flatbread with local cheese
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By Janet Fuller on September 2, 2009 11:57 AM | Permalink | Comments (0)
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JANET RAUSA FULLER
There's something intensely satisfying about flatbread. It's not just the snap between the
teeth. Some of the satisfaction comes before the stuff hits the table.
It's a terrific base for kitchen play; toppings can make the flatbread as tart, sweet, salty
or spicy as you like. It has much of the satisfaction of deep-dish pizza - but it's easier to
take flatbread in fat- and calorie-sane portions.
LISA DONOVAN
Flatbread is something more readily associated with Europe than with the deep south,
but chef Scott Maki of Rambla, 217 Camp St. in New Orleans, is happy to bring all
traditions to the plate. One of his most popular flatbreads features homemade fig jam,
flecks of Valdeon cheese and hand-torn Serrano ham. Crisp, soft, sweet, salt, fat ...
these slim portions are anything but lean on taste and texture.
If you want to bypass the Valdeon buy
local, the Green City Market has cheesy
options that Lyle Allen, the market's
executive director, recommends.
JAMES SCALZITTI
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Saxon Homestead Creamery is new to the Market, and Allen says they use only artisancrafting methods.
As to the fig jam, Maki has made it with fresh figs and with dried, so this flatbread is in
season all year 'round.
2 ounces fig jam (recipe follows)
2 ounces Serrano ham, sliced very thin
1 1/2 ounces Valdeon
4 ounces flatbread dough (recipe follows)
Parsley to garnish
Using a slotted spoon, transfer the figs to a food processor.
Puree the figs and slowly add the remaining cooking liquid until they reach a smooth
spreadable texture. Amount of liquid will vary. Set aside.
For the dough:
" teaspoon instant yeast
1 cup flour
" cup whole wheat flour
2 teaspoons extra virgin olive oil
1 " cups cold water
1 tablespoon sugar
2 tablespoons kosher salt
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For the jam:
10 medium-sized figs (brown or mission), stems removed, halved
1 cup of granulated sugar
! cup of apple cider vinegar
Water
Place the figs, sugar and vinegar in a pot and add water to cover. Cook on a simmer
until the figs are very tender and the water has reduced by about half.
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Elevate flatbread with local
cheese
Trotter about town
Goat's milk cheese plays well with figs.
On Saturdays at the market, look for
Capriole Farmstead Goat Cheese. "Judith
Schad is an icon in the cheese world," Allen says. "Her goat cheese is really special."
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(or season)
MAKES 2 TO 4 SERVINGS
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fame dead at 66
Fig Flatbread with Serrano Ham and Valdeon cheese
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Chase
With more than 100 years in the cheese
business, Brunkow Cheese of Wisconsin
has a fine line of artisan cheeses and a
deservedly loyal following.
pot.
Combine all dry ingredients except for the salt in a stand mixer and begin to mix slowly
with a dough hook attachment. Add the olive oil and slowly add the water until the
dough pulls away from the sides of the bowl and begins to form a ball on the dough
hook. Add salt and mix for 8 to 10 minutes. The amount of water needed may vary
slightly depending on environment.
Allow the dough to rise at room temperature until it has doubled in volume. Punch down
and weigh out a 4 ounce portion and roll into a ball. Roll the dough out to an oblong
shape about 12 inches long and 4 inches wide. Spread a thin layer of fig jam all around
the dough. Crumble the Valdeon cheese on top and bake at 500 degrees until crispy (8
to 10 minutes).
When finished baking, top the flatbread with thinly sliced pieces of Serrano ham and
garnish with some chopped parsley. Slice and serve.
Chef Scott Maki
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Authentic pecan pralines need butter. And love
JANET RAUSA FULLER
NEW ORLEANS -- Some foodstuffs come with stories that are as nourishing as a meal.
In this economy, tales of unanticipated success are particularly welcome.
Twenty years ago, Loretta Harrison was a medical librarian at Louisiana State
University. Then, she learned that Jazzfest needed someone to make New Orleans'
most famous candy, pralines. Harrison made a few batches from a family recipe -- and
cooked a new life for herself.
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By Janet Fuller on September 3, 2009 3:21 PM | Permalink | Comments (0)
In two days at the festival, Harrison and her pralines pulled far more than she was
earning in the university library. She shelved the bookish life and opened Loretta's
Authentic Pralines, 2101 N. Rampart. When the store's door opened, Harrison became
the first black woman to have her own candy company in New Orleans.
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Late to the cupcake party? For
mom, daughter, business is still
sweet
Authentic pecan pralines need
butter. And love
LISA DONOVAN
Elevate flatbread with local
cheese
Chase
fame dead at 66
pot.
FOOD FINDS
JAMES SCALZITTI
Harrison's a born sharer. Come into her store and choose your fill of pralines, cookies
and cake, and she's likely to give you the one thing you missed ... just to try. That's
kitchen wisdom for you: Sit, rest, eat. People do, and return to do so again and again.
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You can get Harrison's well-gotten goods in NoLa or online. If she has her way, before
much more time has passed, she'll be on TV and you'll be able to buy her food from a
national network.
Harrison worked hard to make her pralines a success story, and she doesn't divulge her
recipe. She is, however, happy to provide an insight into what makes a good praline:
butter - real butter - and love.
Can you taste the love? Harrison glows, not only from the heat of the kitchen, and
purrs, "Oh, yes."
Milk and butter can be had at Chicago's Green City Market. So can one more vital
ingredient of a New Orleans praline. Lyle Allen, the Market's executive director says,
"We just brought in pecans this year, from Three Sisters - and the pecans are the size
of your thumb."
If you're using pecans that big, then your pralines are going to be as generous as
Loretta Harrison's heart - and life will be sweet indeed.
Pecan Pralines
MAKES APPROXIMATELY 24 PRALINES, DEPENDING ON SIZE
3 cups light brown sugar, lightly packed
! teaspoon cream of tartar
1/8 teaspoon salt
1 cup whole milk
2 tablespoons butter
1 teaspoon vanilla
2! cups pecan halves
Combine sugar, cream of tartar, salt and milk in a heavy saucepan. Stir over low heat
until sugar dissolves. Cook to 238 degrees or until mixture forms a soft ball when
dropped in a cup of cool water. Cool to 220 degrees. (soft ball stage). Add butter, vanilla
and pecans. Beat until creamy.
Drop from a large spoon onto wax paper or a buttered baking sheet. Wrap individually.
Store in an airtight container.
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Categories: At Home, Candy, Chefs, Green City Market, New Orleans, Recipes
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Tags: butter, loretta harrison, love, market, new orleans, pecan, pralines
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Heritage and History as the Secret Ingredients
August 25, 2009
by Denise A. Campbell
Some have suggested that New Orleans post a
Digg
warning label. Visitors would do well to check
inhibitions at the border, adopt the locals’ motto
submit
of “laissez les bons temps rouler” (let the good
times roll), then let the City seduce you with its
smorgasbord of gastronomical delights and culinary
innovations. A stroll through the French Quarter reveals a
mélange of cuisines: Cajun, Creole, Italian and Caribbean,
marked by a distinct French influence and accentuated by
a bounteous infusion of seafood. Home to bold, innovative chefs and a litany of fine restaurants,
almost every meal is delectable. The food is often spicy and decadent; the flavor lingers long after
you have returned home and beckons again just as surely as the music.
From the grand dames of back a’ town cooking to the venerable purveyors of haute cuisine, New
Orleans’ cooking masters double as griots and memory keepers, weaving stories of history and
heritage that guide travelers through a captivating world of cooking and meal-sharing. Renowned for
staples such as bananas foster, shrimp remoulade, seafood gumbo and jambalaya and for more
exotic fare such as oysters Rockefeller or pompano en papillote - a superior local fish cooked in
parchment with wine sauce – the interconnectivity of family, history and heritage are essential
ingredients in every meal.
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For generations ago, New Orleans Creoles used whatever they stored, grew or caught to feed their
families and communities. This meant using fish and seafood from nearby lakes and rivers and
potatoes, sausages, peppers to ensure that no-one would starve. During a lesson at the New Orleans
School of Cooking with Chef Doris Finister of Two Sisters restaurant and Chef Kevin Belton of Lil'
Dizzy's it’s easy to understand how New Orleans has managed to retain its distinct lifestyle. As she
chops onions and celery and prepares seasonings for her signature shrimp and okra over rice, Chef
Doris regales listeners with the tale of how she and her husband acquired Two Sisters 36 years ago.
The Return of Family
Dining
Stay on top of your etiquette skills each
month with expert Mrs. Tina Hayes.
Cooking traditions have been carefully preserved and passed from one generation to another,
ensuring that Creole heritage remains alive and celebrated today. Her aunt taught her how to cook,
imparting priceless lessons like how to choose and use ingredients and when you know the gumbo’s
roux is ready. Grand Dame of Creole cooking, Chef Leah Chase of esteemed Dooky Chase restaurant,
explained, “While Mamma cooked, she had to keep us close and watch us and so I watched her. You
remember gems like, after boiling the potatoes, season immediately so they’ll hold the seasonings.”
There are no questions of how much filet, how hot should the oil be, or when to add the garlic. They
just know.
For his gumbo, Chef Kevin Belton's begins with what gumbo lovers insist is the most important
ingredient: the mysterious roux. He stirs briskly, making sure it doesn't stick to the pot. Then he
adds “the trinity” - green peppers, onions and celery, stirring them into a pot of chicken broth. To
this he adds bay leaves, shrimp and blue crabs from Lake Pontchartrain. Next he stirs in the garlic,
"the pope," until the roux is smooth and flavorful. Instead of seafood, you can create your own
version with chicken, andouille sausages or anything you prefer. The result is a hearty, mouthwatering, shiver-inducing gumbo - no easy feat in a city where everybody’s grandma’s is the best.
Watching the dish come together is not unlike having the mysteries of wine-making reveal
themselves before having your first sip.
In addition to owner Wayne Baquet, Belton is also the Chef at Lil’ Dizzy's on Poydras Street. Dizzy's
offers a dizzying array of Creole creations from Paneed veal, Seventh Ward pork chop to owner
Wayne Baquet's signature trout Baquet. Diners also line up for their Creole breakfast which includes
grits and grillades and seasoned- to- perfection hot and smoked sausages, used not only as an
ingredient in many traditional dishes but also a flavor enhancer.
At Willie Mae’s Scotch House, the first bite of their light, crunchy-as-cornflakes, tender-as-ababy’s-finger fried chicken declares that their reputation is well-deserved. Chef Kerry Seaton
Blackmon has taken the place of her great-grandmother, the legendary Willie Mae Seaton and has
remained faithful to the latter’s cooking style, zealously guarding recipe secrets. Diners travel insane
Miso-Glazed
Salmon
Cajun-Spiced
Soft-Shell...
Peanut Sauce
distances to line up for country-fried pork chops, fried catfish, ribs, potato salad, butter beans and
red beans and rice. Who can blame them? Chef Leah Chase remains a culinary icon with a lunch
buffet that offers jambalaya, BBQ ribs, candied yams, red beans and rice and stewed okra. For dinner
choose from a menu that includes chicken Creole, shrimp Clemenceau or the seafood plate with
shrimp, oysters, fish and stuffed crab.
Second generation chefs like Chefs Edgar “Dook” Chase and Kerry Blackmon are present carnations
of a long lineage of cooks whose ancestral traditions and secret recipes are interwoven within the
ingredients that distinguish their meals. Restaurants like Two Sisters, Dooky Chase, Willie Mae’s and
others are standard bearers for back a' town cooking that’s steeped in southern seasonings and
tradition. More than a place to eat, they’re iconic cultural landmarks that form an indelible bridge
linking past to present and hopefully, to the future.
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About Denise A. Campbell
Denise A. Campbell is a freelance writer with Cuisine Noir and currently lives in New York. More about
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The Coffeehouse Journals
Ah, the coffeehouse. A cultural icon where life happens, where community emerges, where great
ideas are discussed, where artifacts are written, where people go to stay awake. May it be so with
this blog.
Tuesday, July 07, 2009
Saturday at Dooky Chase's
About Me
KAMI RICE
NASHVILLE,
TENNESSEE, UNITED
STATES
I'm a lover of God,
people, books, ideas, nature,
music, art, living wisely, cultures,
languages, adventures, days that
aren't all the same, Italian food,
learning, beauty in its many
forms, summer nights outdoors,
laughter, wit, simple pleasures,
not getting speeding tickets,
colored walls, growth, not
Dooky Chase's: a storied neighborhood restaurant with institution status. And if
you're lucky you'll get to meet its lovely matriarch, Leah Chase.
knowing where the path goes but
trusting that God does.
View my complete profile
How to Hire Me to Write
Kami's Writer Website
Follow me on Twitter!
KamiTheWriter
My travel blog!
Kami's travels at home and
abroad
It may have been grandson Chef Edgar "Dooky" Chase IV doing the cooking
demonstration, but 86-year-old Leah still really runs the kitchen.
Labels
Africa (3)
agriculture (3)
alpha-bits (1)
Bible (1)
coffeehouse community (1)
England (4)
films (6)
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Recently back from culinary school in Paris, Dooky #4 is inheriting the kitchen
reins while twin brothers Trevor and Travis cover the front side of the restaurant.
Hang around long enough and you'll meet a lot more of the family.
issues (11)
journalism (2)
literary (8)
Nashville (7)
nature (1)
observations (14)
photo posts (4)
poetry (6)
published work (1)
tongue in cheek (5)
travel (5)
Books by Author Friends
From the kitchen...
Culture Making: Recovering Our
Creative Calling by Andy Crouch
Deliver Us from Me-ville by David
Zimmerman
House of Wolves by Matt
Bronleewe
Simple Spirituality: Learning to
See God in a Broken World by
Chris Heuertz
This Heavy Silence by Nicole
Mazzarella
Books I'm Reading
50 Crucial Questions by John
Piper and Wayne Grudem
...to the dining room.
A Mile in My Shoes: Cultivating
Compassion by Trevor Hudson
Cloister Walk by Marilynne
Robinson
Cry, The Beloved Country by Alan
Paton
Emma's War by Deborah
Scroggins
Gilead by Kathleen Norris
Great Expectations by Charles
Dickens
Our journalist crew, representing Philadelphia, San Francisco, New York, London,
Nashville, and New Orleans. What a great time we had together!
Posted by Kami Rice at 10:37 PM
I'm a Stranger Here Myself by Bill
Bryson
Jane Eyre by Charlotte Bronte
Labels: freelancing, photo posts, travel
Me Talk Pretty One Day by David
Sedaris
Mountains Beyond Mountains by
Tracy Kidder
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The Count of Monte Cristo by
Alexandre Dumas
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Wednesday, July 08, 2009
About Me
in the neighborhoods
KAMI RICE
NASHVILLE,
TENNESSEE, UNITED
STATES
I'm a lover of God,
Chef Kerry Seaton, great-granddaugther of Willie Mae Seaton, has taken over the
kitchen of this 6th ward neighborhood jewel: Willie Mae's Scotch House.
KamiTheWriter
My travel blog!
abroad
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Kerry invited us into her kitchen. Not that we could recreate what she was doing.
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Known for its secret recipe fried chicken, the restaurant makes some mighty fine
Nashville (7)
pork chops too.
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Saturday morning we made it to Chef Doris' Two Sisters Restaurant, located
comfortably in another New Orleans neighborhood. I dream of one day living in a
neighborhood with such a place in walking distance from my home. Some day,
some day.
Zimmerman
Bronleewe
Chris Heuertz
Mazzarella
Books I'm Reading
Robinson
Paton
In the lower 9th ward that was so hard hit by Katrina, we checked out the Global
Emma's War by Deborah
Scroggins
Green house project. These new homes are LEED platinum certified (that's the
highest LEED rating!). There's never an electric bill because they produce more
electricity than they use. And why aren't all homes built this way?
Gilead by Kathleen Norris
Great Expectations by Charles
Dickens
Here We Are in Paradise by Tony
Earley
I'm a Stranger Here Myself by Bill
Bryson
Jane Eyre by Charlotte Bronte
Me Talk Pretty One Day by David
Sedaris
Mountains Beyond Mountains by
Tracy Kidder
The Count of Monte Cristo by
Alexandre Dumas
I was very excited to see a bit of green roof in action. I've read about the
benefits of these but never seen them first-hand.
The Return of the Prodigal Son by
Henri Nouwen
Posted by Kami Rice at 12:50 PM
The Shackled Continent by Robert
Guest
Labels: agriculture, photo posts, travel
The Writing Life by Annie Dillard
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Three Cups of Tea by Greg
Mortenson and David Oliver
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Walking on Water by Madeline
L'Engle
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Becoming Jane
Blood Diamond
Bride Wars
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Devil Wears Prada
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Enchanted
Girl with a Pearl Earring
Great Expectations
He's Just Not That Into You
Juno
Miss Potter
New in Town
No Country for Old Men
Revolutionary Road
Strangers on a Train
The Good German
The Illusionist
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A Thing With Feathers
Aaron Klinefelter's Blog
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this blog.
Monday, July 06, 2009
And then it was already Friday
About Me
KAMI RICE
NASHVILLE,
TENNESSEE, UNITED
STATES
I'm a lover of God,
First things first: brunch at oh-so-rightly-famous Brennan's.
KamiTheWriter
My travel blog!
Eggs Hussarde and Eggs Sardou. Say that 10 times fast.
abroad
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Who knew brunch comes with dessert? Bananas Foster where it was born.
grammar (1)
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literary (8)
Nashville (7)
nature (1)
observations (14)
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travel (3)
Bruce "Sunpie" Barnes introducing us to Louisiana's own zydeco music. I'm now a
fan!
Zimmerman
Bronleewe
Chris Heuertz
Mazzarella
Books I'm Reading
Rock 'n' Bowl was the cool location for our zydeco intro. They have live bands
and a dance floor every night they're open. And when you're tired of dancing,
you can hit the bowling lanes. Something for everyone!
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Zave Smith Photography
Exuberant and poignant, philosophical and passionate, Zave's photographs capture the tangible pleasures and
tactile experiences of life in close-up. Raised and trained in the midwest, working out of New York and
Philadelphia, Zave has a special feeling for personality that suffuses his work. This blog is about creativity,
art, advertising, photography and living the life of a commercial photographer. You can also visit is website
at: www.zavesmith.com
TUESDAY, JULY 7, 2009
About Me
New Orleans
Zave Smith
Zave Smith is an award winning
commercial photographer based
in NYC and Philadelphia. You can
view is website at:
http://www.zavesmith.com
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Blog Archive
! 2009 (20)
! July (2)
Essence Festival
New Orleans
" June (2)
" May (1)
" April (5)
" March (4)
" February (4)
" January (2)
" 2008 (36)
" 2007 (1)
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By all measures, New Orleans should be a sad city. It has suffered
hurricanes, floods, high unemployment, racial strife and several visits from
Homeland Security and the Army Corps of Engineers. Yet, it remains New
Orleans, donning her best Sunday dress of joy, happiness and just plain fun.
From the Balls and parades of Mardi Gras, and the clubs along Bourbon
Street to the hole in the wall family restaurants in the neighborhoods, I have
witnessed the joys of living triumph over the pains of life.
New Orleans is both one of America!s poorest cities and one of our
wealthiest. It overflows with good food, great music and spirited people. Yet
three plus years after Katrina material damage is still to be found.
During this trip, my assignment was to photograph the Creole to Soul Tour
and The Essence Music Festival. In addition I was fortunate to spend a few
hours in the Brad Pitt Green Home development too. In this Lower Ninth
Ward neighborhood one home is finished, two more are almost completed.
These homes are amazing. They are beautiful, comfortable, and have
achieved the highest rating for being Green. Yet I walked away wondering
why only three? Why are there not three hundred or three thousand of these
low cost, totally cool new homes? They should be sprouting up like
mushrooms in the humid climate of the Lower Ninth Ward.
I love New Orleans. Between the street cars, drunk tourists, amazing
musicians, chefs who know how to turn an egg into a taste of heaven, and
300 year old French Quarter homes, lives a collection of ghosts and stories.
For the price of a cheap beer and a sincere ear you can hear the most
amazing tales. New Orleans, is an old oak, with deep roots and fresh new
leaves every year.
Sincerely,
Zave Smith
www.zavesmith.com
Posted by Zave Smith Photography at Tuesday, July 07, 2009
Labels: African American, cooking, food, fun african american, new
orleans, restruants, Travel, vacations
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SEARCH BLOG
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Next Blog»
Zave Smith Photography
Exuberant and poignant, philosophical and passionate, Zave's photographs capture the tangible pleasures and
tactile experiences of life in close-up. Raised and trained in the midwest, working out of New York and
Philadelphia, Zave has a special feeling for personality that suffuses his work. This blog is about creativity,
art, advertising, photography and living the life of a commercial photographer. You can also visit is website
at: www.zavesmith.com
TUESDAY, JULY 7, 2009
About Me
Essence Festival
Zave Smith
Zave Smith is an award winning
commercial photographer based
in NYC and Philadelphia. You can
view is website at:
http://www.zavesmith.com
Jazz Festival At Sea
The Capital Jazz
SuperCruise October 1017, 2009
www.CapitalJazz.com
Blog Archive
! 2009 (20)
! July (2)
Essence Festival
New Orleans
" June (2)
" May (1)
" April (5)
" March (4)
" February (4)
" January (2)
" 2008 (36)
" 2007 (1)
Subscribe To Zave Smith Photography
Posts
Comments
Worth Visiting
Advertising Photographers of
America
Corbis
My Daddy Always Said
Shades of Paper
Steve Prezant Photography
Stock Artist Alliance
Images from this years Essence Festival:
Sincerely,
Zave Smith
www.zavesmith.com
Posted by Zave Smith Photography at Tuesday, July 07, 2009
Labels: Beyonce, city life photography love happy commercial art,
Essence Festival, Music, Travel
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