september08compass_online ( PDF )

Transcription

C A R I B B E A N
On
-lin
e
C MPASS
SEPTEMBER 2008 NO. 156
The Caribbean’s Monthly Look at Sea & Shore
…BE HAPPY - IN JAMAICA
See story on page 18
SEPTEMBER 2008
CARIBBEAN COMPASS
PAGE 2
SEPTEMBER 2008
CARIBBEAN COMPASS
PAGE 3
CALENDAR
SEPTEMBER
The Caribbean’s Monthly Look at Sea & Shore
www.caribbeancompass.com
1
5 - 11
6
6-7
Labor Day. Public holiday in USVI
Dia di Bonaire sailing races, Bonaire
Bonaire Day. Public holiday in Bonaire
Back to Schools Regatta, BVI. Royal British Virgin Islands Yacht Club
(RBVIYC), tel (284) 494-3286, [email protected], www.rbviyc.net
Virgin of the Valley Festival, Margarita, Venezuela
FULL MOON
National Heroes Day, Public holiday in St. Kitts & Nevis
Independence Day. Public holiday in St. Kitts & Nevis
International Coastal Clean-Up Day
Clean-Up Dive, Bonaire
Our Lady of las Mercedes. Public holiday in Dominican Republic
Republic Day. Public holiday in Trinidad & Tobago
Soualiga Challenge Kayak Race, St. Barths to St. Maarten.
[email protected]
SEPTEMBER 2008 • NUMBER 156
DICK STOUTE
St. Thomas’
Mangrove
Getting into it ....................... 21
BERNIE KATCHOR
8
15
17
19
20
20
24
24
28
WILFRED DEDERER
Cuba, Again!
Why they can’t stay away ..... 22
SEPTEMBER 2008
Yogurt for yachties................ 42
SALLY ERDLE
CARIBBEAN COMPASS
PAGE 4
Having ‘Culture’
Aboard
Carriacou
Regatta 2008
An all-around authentic event .. 11
Tobago Blues
Cruisers just want to visit..... 46
DEPARTMENTS
Business Briefs ....................... 8
Eco-News .............................. 10
Regatta News........................ 14
Sailors’ Horoscope................ 34
Island Poets ........................... 34
Cartoons ................................ 34
Cruising Crossword............... 35
Word Search Puzzle .............. 35
Cruising Kids’ Corner ............ 36
Dolly’s Deep Secrets ............ 36
Book Reviews ........................ 37
Cooking with Cruisers .......... 42
Readers’ Forum ..................... 45
Meridian Passage ................. 46
What’s On My Mind .............. 46
Caribbean Marketplace...... 51
Classified Ads ....................... 54
Advertisers’ Index ................. 54
Caribbean Compass is published monthly by
Compass Publishing Ltd., P.O. Box 175 BQ,
Bequia, St. Vincent and the Grenadines.
Tel: (784) 457-3409, Fax: (784) 457-3410
[email protected]
Editor...........................................Sally Erdle
[email protected]
Assistant Editor...................Elaine Ollivierre
[email protected]
Advertising & Distribution........Tom Hopman
[email protected]
Art, Design & Production......Wilfred Dederer
[email protected]
Accounting.................................Debra Davis
[email protected]
Grenada/Carriacou/Petite Martinique:
Ad Sales & Distribution - Alan Hooper
Tel: (473) 409-9451 [email protected]
Guadeloupe: Ad Sales & Distribution
Stéphane Legendre
Mob: + 590 (0) 6 90 49 45 90
[email protected]
Martinique: Ad Sales & Distribution - Isabelle Prado
Tel: (0596) 596 68 69 71, Mob: + 596 (0) 696 93 26 38
[email protected]
St. Lucia: Distribution - Lisa Kessell
Tel: (758) 484-0555,
[email protected]
St. Maarten/St. Barths:
Distribution - Eric Bendahan (599) 553 3850
Tel/Fax: + 590 (0) 5 90 84 53 10 Mob: + 590 (0) 6 90 49 45 90
St. Thomas/USVI: Distribution - Bryan Lezama
Tel: (340) 774 7931, [email protected]
St. Vincent & the Grenadines: Ad Sales - Debra Davis,
Tel: (784) 457-3527, [email protected]
Tortola/BVI: Distribution - Gladys Jones
Tel: (284) 494-2830, Fax: (284) 494-1584
Trinidad: Ad Sales & Distribution - Jack Dausend
Tel: 868) 634-2622 Mob: (868) 620-0978
[email protected]
Venezuela: Ad Sales & Distribution - Patty Tomasik
Tel: (58-281) 265-3844 Tel/Fax: (58-281) 265-2448,
[email protected]
Compass Agents by Island:
Antigua: Ad Sales & Distribution - Lucy Tulloch
Tel (268) 720-6868
[email protected]
Barbados: Distribution - Doyle Sails
Tel/Fax: (246) 423-4600
Curaçao: Distribution - Cees de Jong
Tel: (5999) 767-9042, Fax: (5999) 767-9003,
[email protected]
Dominica: Distribution - Hubert J. Winston
Dominica Marine Center, 24 Victoria Street, Roseau,
Tel: (767) 448-2705, [email protected]
Caribbean Compass welcomes submissions of short articles, news items, photos and drawings.
See Writers’ Guidelines at www.caribbeancompass.com. Send submissions to [email protected].
We support free speech! But the content of advertisements, columns, articles and letters to the editor are the
sole responsibility of the advertiser, writer or correspondent, and Compass Publishing Ltd. accepts no
responsibility for any statements made therein. Letters and submissions may be edited for length and clarity.
Compass Publishing Ltd. accepts no liability for delayed distribution or printing quality as these services are
supplied by other companies.
©2008 Compass Publishing Ltd. All rights reserved. No reproduction, copy or transmission of this publication,
except short excerpts for review purposes, may be made without written permission of Compass Publishing Ltd.
ISSN 1605 - 1998
OCTOBER
1
2
4-5
4–5
5 - 11
10
11
13
14
18
18
18 - 20
20
21
21
24
25
27
28
30
31
Eid Ul Fitr (Muslim festival). Public holiday in Trinidad & Tobago
Thanksgiving Day. Public holiday in St. Lucia
Pete Sheals Match Racing, BVI. RBVIYC
Defis Guadeloupe Kayak race. [email protected]
41st Bonaire International Sailing Regatta. www.bonaireregatta.org
War of 1868 Anniversary. Public holiday in Cuba
Willy T Virgins Cup Race, BVI. RBVIYC
Columbus Day. Public holiday in Puerto Rico and USVI
FULL MOON
YSATT Marine Trades Show, Chaguaramas, Trinidad. [email protected]
St. Maarten Optimist Championship. www.smyc.com
Trafalgar Cup Race, BVI. RBVIYC
USVI Hurricane Thanksgiving Day (Public holiday in USVI
if no hurricanes occurred)
St. Ursula’s Day. Public holiday in BVI
Antillean Day. Public holiday in Netherlands Antilles
- 26 11th Annual Foxy’s Cat Fight multihull regatta, Jost Van Dyke.
West End Yacht Club (WEYC), Tortola, BVI, tel (284) 495-1002,
fax (284) 495-4184, [email protected], www.weyc.net
Thanksgiving Day. Public holiday in Grenada; boat races
Independence Day. Public holiday in St. Vincent & the Grenadines.
Local boat races in Bequia, [email protected]
Divali (Hindu festival of lights). Public holiday in Trinidad & Tobago
- Nov 2
St. Lucia Food & Rum Festival, Rodney Bay
- Nov 2
World Creole Music Festival, Dominica
All information was correct to the best of our knowledge
at the time this issue of Compass went to press — but plans change,
so please contact event organizers directly for confirmation.
If you would like a nautical or tourism event listed FREE in our calendar,
please send the name and date(s) of the event and the name
and contact information of the organizing body to
[email protected].
Cover photo: Cookie Kinkead / Errol Flynn Marina, Port Antonio, Jamaica
have been taken from the Dryden’s sailboat. Nancy Dryden has told newspaper
reporters that she could identify in a line-up the men who killed her husband.
The US Embassy, relatives and local boaters have rushed to support Nancy, and
the Vice-President of Guatemala, Rafael Espado, has taken a personal interest in
this incident.
Some months ago when security issues were raised, local businesses and boaters’
representatives met with the Guatemalan Navy and Tourist Police. As a result of discussions at that time, three anchorages were designated which the Navy volunteered to patrol. A handout was also designed, warning boaters of the possible
dangers of anchoring out and pinpointing the designated “safe” anchorages. The
flyer was sent to Livingston to be distributed to new arrivals. Unfortunately, the
patrols apparently stopped once the initial pressure was off. If you are in the Rio
Dulce, be safe: go into a marina. They are inexpensive, pretty and fun.
For updates from the Dryden family visit http://danieldrydenfamily.blogspot.com.
Info
& Updates
Soufriere Weather Info Returns
The current weather information for Soufriere, St. Lucia, can now be found at its
original address: www.smma.org.lc/weather/weather.htm. Browse the rest of the
website for information on yacht mooring areas in the Soufriere Marine
Management Area and more.
The Soufriere Marine
management Area’s
website is a good
source of information
about this part of St.
Lucia — including,
once again,
a comprehensive
weather report
COURTESY DRYDEN FAMILY
CARIBBEAN COMPASS
Cruisers Raise Funds for Carriacou Kids
John and Melodye Pompa report: Despite the rain (and rain and more rain), the
annual Carriacou Children’s Education Fund (CCEF) activities held from July 30th
through August 2nd were another resounding success. With donations still coming,
the amount raised this year has already exceeded EC$17,000! Through the generosity of all who took part, by contributing items and/or cash or by attending and participating in the activities, the CCEF will be able to continue the projects that have
benefited hundreds of children on the island for the past eight years.
—Continued on next page
SEPTEMBER 2008
Arrests Made in Rio Dulce Attack
Julia Bartlett reports: Swift action by Guatemalan police resulted in arrests days
after Guatemala saw its first cruiser fatality due to assault for about eight years.
DEREK BERRY
Lower Caribbean Yachting Report
A research team of two individuals, Koen Altena and Erwin Herbert, both fourthyear marketing students from Holland, has compiled a report in English analyzing the
Lower Caribbean Yachting Industry. The report features Curaçao as a prime example of an island whose yacht-service industry has developed rapidly over recent
years. It also includes Grenada, Trinidad and Venezuela — all of which have benefited from being below the usual hurricane belt. Koen and Erwin say that by conducting research that has widespread applications, their hope is that all of the surrounding islands can benefit from the research.
The team conducted interviews with 152 yacht owners all over the lower
Caribbean to find out what they consider valuable aspects of a yachting destination, and to allow yacht owners to give their personal evaluations of the various
yachting locations within the lower Caribbean. Interviews were also conducted with
boatyard and marina managers, governmental organization representatives, and
other persons who possessed relevant information about the yachting industry of the
lower Caribbean.
The 90-page report analyzes the characteristics of the average yacht owner who
travels in the lower Caribbean, what his wants and needs are, and how much he
spends (around US$2,200 per month according to the results of the interviews). It
also includes a competitive analysis of the four destinations studied.
This is the first report of its kind done especially on the yachting industry of the lower
Caribbean, and we congratulate Koen and Irwin on their efforts.
For more information contact [email protected].
PAGE 5
Dan Dryden (at right) was killed during an armed yacht robbery on the Rio Dulce.
His wife, Nancy, is reportedly recovering from stab wounds. Guatemalan police have
two suspects in custody. According to Roy McNett, editor of the Rio Dulce ChismeVindicator, two other men believed to have been involved in the incident were killed
recently in a shoreside shooting
On August 9th, Alaskans Dan and Nancy Dryden were aboard their 42-foot
Southern Cross, Sunday’s Child, anchored about a hundred yards off Monkey Bay
Marina in the Rio Dulce between the town of Livingston and Lago Izabal (15.5°N,
88.4°W). The boat was boarded by four men armed with machetes, who tried to rob
them. Dan Dryden resisted, and in the resulting struggle he was killed. Nancy was
wounded and admitted to hospital with a collapsed lung. After surgery, she is now
reportedly out of danger.
On August 11th, three yachts newly arrived in Guatemala, Dream Odyssey, Cdog
and Mima, entered the Rio Dulce. They anchored near the hot springs, intending to
continue the two miles into Texan Bay the next morning. During the night, Dream
Odyssey was boarded by five men armed with machetes and one gun. Items of
value were removed but the boatowner and his wife were not injured.
The following morning, the skipper of the British yacht Phalcor reported on the cruisers’ VHF net that at about 2:00AM a group of men had boarded his yacht and tried
to rip open a closed hatch. After failing to do so, despite strenuous efforts, the men
used bolt cutters to cut the chain securing his portable generator on deck. They left
with the generator and a fishing rod. The yachtsman was not injured, and the
boarding party left some evidence behind.
Two suspects in the death of Dan Dryden were arrested on August 14th. According
to the local newspaper El Periodico, Carlos Ernesto Lemus Hernandez, 19, and his
brother Elfido Concepcion Lemus Hernandez, 33, both of the village of Esmeralda, a
few miles from where the attack occurred, were taken into custody after a search
of their home resulted in the discovery of an ice pick and binoculars believed to
SEPTEMBER 2008
CARIBBEAN COMPASS
PAGE 6
—Continued from previous page
CCEF had its beginnings in 1997 when a group of cruisers in Tyrrel Bay gathered
together for a potluck barbecue prior to the start of the annual Carriacou Regatta
Festival. At that time, there were no more than 15 visiting yachts at anchor. Through
word of mouth, the total experience of Carriacou Regatta has spread though the
cruising community and the number of yachts continued to increase. There have
been as many as 90 visiting yachts anchored in Tyrrel Bay.
In 2000, a group of cruisers discussed a way to demonstrate appreciation to the
people of Carriacou for their friendliness and hospitality. That year this group, the
forerunner of CCEF, held its first benefit auction. At the time, a number of worthy
causes were discussed as the potential recipient of the proceeds of the fundraising,
and the group chose the children of Carriacou and their education.
Since that time over EC$86,000 has been raised to assist children in their schooling,
from pre-primary, through primary, secondary and post-secondary levels. Needy
children are provided with school uniforms and supplies, hot school lunches (“Meals
from Keels”), and full tuition and a book stipend at the Carriacou campus of T.A.
Marryshow Community College. In addition, through a matching funds program,
CCEF has helped two primary schools upgrade the wiring and purchase air conditioners for their computer labs, and has committed funds to do similar upgrades at
the other three primary schools as their needs are identified.
‘It’s for the kids!’ The Harbour Barber was just one of an impressive array of
fundraising volunteers and events that helped net over EC$17,000 at this year’s
regatta for the Carriacou Children’s Educational Fund
The activities in late July and early August are the culmination of the work of many
volunteers throughout the year. Cruisers spread the word about Regatta, make
items for the craft table or collect items for the auction. Many people who are not
able to attend Regatta drop off contributions at the Yacht Club as they pass
through Carriacou. Others e-mail financial pledges. Some even contribute the proceeds that they have received from the Caribbean Compass for articles published!
A number of local businesses are also involved with CCEF. Donations of goods and
services are made for the auction, and some of these same businessmen are
among the highest bidders when the gavel comes down.
In addition to the auction, other fundraising activities include a silent auction, the
Welcome Barbecue, a domino tournament, a book swap, a craft table with handmade goods contributed by the many artisans aboard the visiting yachts, a “$10
and Under” table of those treasures of the bilge that we all have on board, and the
“Harbor Barber”.
A unique donation CCEF receives is the money contributed by visiting yachts that
use the WiFi in Tyrrel Bay. In some bays that yachts frequent, wireless connections
can cost up to US$70 a month. In Tyrrel Bay, free WiFi is provided by some progressive businessmen. All they
ask is that the users consider
making a contribution to the
CCEF. From the level of contributions that we have
received, the visiting yachts
have shown that they
appreciate the service and
want to help the children.
Sincere thanks go out to
everyone who participated
this year and in the past. We
look forward to seeing all of
you in Carriacou next year to
help celebrate when CCEF
surpasses the $100,000 mark!
Caribbean Cover Girl!
The S&S34 Morning Tide, a
well-known contender on
the Caribbean racing circuit
for the past three decades,
adorns the cover of the
August 2008 issue of the
US-published SAIL magazine
(which modestly bills itself as
the “world’s leading sailing
magazine”). Launched in
1969, Morning Tide was
restored in 2005 by her current owner, Peter Morris, who
races her out of Trinidad.
Curaçao Marine
New marine center presents the latest Dutch innovation in boat handling equipment.
Hauling capacity 45 tons and Catamarans up to 33ft beam.
Safe dry storage with 24 hours security
- Long-term storage.
AWLGRIP® indoor spray painting
and many other services.
We are located in the safe harbor of Willemstad.
Email: [email protected]
Phone: +(599 9) 465 8936 Fax: 465 8941
www.curacaomarine.com
Grenada Hosts British Youth Swing Band
One reason Grenada is popular with cruisers is that there’s always something going
on, even in the summer. The Sherborne Swing Band from Sherborne School, Dorset,
UK, was “on tour” in Grenada during the first week of August. The band, whose
members are aged between 13 and 18, gave concerts at True Blue Bay Resort, Le
Phare Bleu Resort & Marina, La Source, and The Grenadian at Rex Resorts, with a
Educational Fund; John Rowland to the Bequia Community High School Library; and
Danny Donelan to the Carriacou Regatta Festival Committee.
Your generosity is appreciated!
Woburn School Says ‘Thanks!’
Woburn RC Infant and Pre-Primary School graduation ceremony took place on
June 26th, with 28 children graduating and moving on to other schools.
The school would like to
thank the Compass contributors who have donated their
payments to the school.
Much essential work had to
be undertaken this year,
including improving the surface of the yard, purchasing
a new photocopier and
renewing insurance. The
school has some development projects planned for
next year, including the purchase and installation of
playground equipment.
With just over 100 children
aged between three and
seven, the school has an
Seaside swing in Grenada — summertime entertainment for a good cause
excellent academic record and most of the staff has been with the school for many
years. The school has always welcomed land- or water-based visitors and two “cruiser kids” are registered for the 2008-2009 academic year.
Ooops!
In the article “This is the House That Jack Built” on page 40 of the August issue of
Compass, the sentence “The next edition of the Boaters’ Directory of Trinidad & Tobago
is scheduled for June 2008 delivery” should have read “…scheduled for January 2009
delivery”. We apologize to both Boaters’ Enterprise and their readers and advertisers for
any confusion this error might have caused. See the latest news about the Boaters’
Directory of Trinidad & Tobago — due out next January! — on page 8.
The map on page 15 of last month’s Compass, credited to The Abaconian newspaper, should have been credited to Derek Lee, who designed it for The Abaconian.
CARIBBEAN COMPASS
Charitable Writers
Who says cruisers are cheap? The following Compass writers have donated the
proceeds from recent articles to worthy local causes: Dave Richardson to Bequia’s
Sunshine School for Children with Special Needs; Ciarla Decker to the Marine
Education and Research (MER) Center; Christopher Price to a private fund for
unwed mothers; Jan Brogan to St. Benedict’s Infant Hospital in St. Vincent; Chuck
Cherry to the Bequia Mission for a schoolchild in need; Jeremy Shaw to the Woburn
School in Grenada; John and Melodye Pompa to the Carriacou Children’s
Over the years, many ‘cruiser kids’ have attended the friendly Woburn Pre-Primary
and other Caribbean schools
SEPTEMBER 2008
line-up that comprised three trumpets, two trombones, eight saxophones, guitar,
bass, percussion and keyboard.
The young musicians organise an overseas trip each year, and a regular visitor to
True Blue Bay Resort suggested that they visit Grenada in 2008 to raise funds for the
Queen Elizabeth Children’s Home. With Russ Fielden from True Blue Bay Resort providing Grenada-based support and assistance, the young musicians stayed at The
Grenadian at Rex Resorts and performed five free public concerts and played for
the Westmorland School Graduation Party. The Ministry of Culture also arranged for
the band to run a workshop at Grenada Boys’ Secondary School, which was
attended by members of the Royal Grenada Police Force Band and was very well
received by all attendees.
Jamie Henderson, the band’s leader, said the whole trip was a great hit with the
band members. The concerts too were very successful with over EC$5,000 raised for
the Queen Elizabeth Children’s Home.
PAGE 7
BUSINESS BRIEFS
14th Boaters’ Directory of T&T Underway
Publisher Jack Dausend reports: The 14th edition of the Boaters’ Directory of Trinidad
& Tobago is now being compiled and is targeted for release in January 2009.
This newest edition of the ever-popular and comprehensive directory will include all
the information that visiting cruisers and local boatowners alike have come to expect,
such as information about services and facilities for the repair and maintenance of
recreational yachts (both sailing and power vessels), as well as Customs & Immigration
regulations, Carnival and lots of interesting details about Trinidad & Tobago.
Since its first publication in 1995, the Boaters’ Directory of Trinidad & Tobago has
become the indispensable “bible” for boaters in T&T, not only in its handy 5.5” by 8.5”
paperback print version but also in the on-line version at www.BoatersEnterprise.com.
Yacht-related businesses in T&T take note: The foreign recreational boaters arriving in the Trinidad & Tobago shores (after being at sea for a period of time) are looking for many services. The 250-page Boaters’ Directory lists all the services and suppliers by category, brand name and alphabetically — complete with links to their
business website and e-mail addresses — using the “yellow pages” concept. If you
haven’t reserved your advertising space for this 2009 edition as yet,
contact [email protected] or phone (868) 620-0978.
For more information see ad on page 37.
SEPTEMBER 2008
CARIBBEAN COMPASS
PAGE 8
Northern Lights’ Caribbean Dealer Conference
Northern Lights Generators and their Caribbean Distributor, Parts & Power Ltd.,
hosted a Caribbean Dealer Conference on July 29th and 30th at Mariah’s By The
Sea on Tortola. The conference, entitled Challenge 2010, was attended by Northern
Lights Dealers from throughout the Caribbean.
Changes in the power-generation market and challenges anticipated over the
next two years were discussed, as were new products, including the new M944T,
which will produce 38kw at 1800 rpm in a remarkably compact package. Webbased sales and service tools were announced to speed up reaction time to customer inquiries, and a large part of the conference focused on how to increase customer satisfaction by providing better service overall.
From left to right: Frank Agren from Inboard Diesel Service in Martinique, Dave
Cooper from Dockyard Electrics in Trinidad, Flemming Neihorster from Seagull
Services in Antigua, and Nathan Price, Vice President Southeast Region
Nathan Price, Vice President Southeast Region, informed the dealers about the
recent acquisition of Technicold, which manufactures high-quality marine air-conditioning and refrigeration equipment. Nathan told the gathering: “The Technicold
product nicely complements our Northern Lights Marine Generator products
because the design and manufacturing process used mirrors our company motto of
Reliability, Durability, and Long Life.”
For more information on Northern Lights dealers in the Caribbean see ad on page 16.
Grenada
Summer Special Offer from Errol Flynn Marina
Stay at Errol Flynn Marina at Port Antonio, Jamaica any time between now and
November and they’ll give you one day’s dockage free for every three days you
stay with them, which amounts to a 25-percent discount on a four-day stay. (Water
and electricity are not included.)
The marina also says that they are the only shipyard and marina in the region
where you can get a 40-foot yacht hauled out and re-launched for just US$100 — or
US$2.50 a foot.
With sufficient space to dock a yacht in excess of 600 feet alongside and a turning basin to match, the only limiting factor for yachts is their restriction of vessels to a
draft of ten meters (32 feet) or less. Free, secure high-speed WiFi access (or complimentary internet time in their internet café if you don’t have your own laptop) is
offered to all marina customers.
Ahead on the calendar for Errol Flynn is the 45th International Marlin Tournament,
which runs October 4th through 11th with an estimated 45 to 50 boats expected to
take part in the competition — and the onshore partying! And further still down the
line, the Marina is hoping to be selected as one of the stopovers on the 2009
Trancaraibes Rally, after receiving glowing reports from cruisers from a number of
yachts who visited there during this year’s event. Marina management and
Jamaica Tourist Board members are expected to meet with rally organizers soon to
finalize plans. Traditionally the rally departs from Guadeloupe in March and includes
stopovers in St. Maarten, the Dominican Republic and Cuba.
For more information on Errol Flynn Marina see ad on page 15.
For more information on the Trancaraibes Rally see ad in the Market Place, pages
51 through 53.
Horizon St. Martin Gourmet Sailing Package 2008!
Horizon Yacht Charters (St. Martin) has launched a new Gourmet Sailing package in
partnership with the five-star La Samanna Hotel: a seven-night charter that includes an
exclusive private dining experience inside the hotel’s award-winning wine cellar with
your very own chef for the night plus an unforgettable wine tasting experience.
Designed for yachtsmen who appreciate the finer things in life, the special package offers the opportunity to enjoy impeccable wines and the ultimate dining experience. The wine cellar, La Cave, is one of the finest in the Caribbean, holding over
14,000 wines covering every category from French Margaux to Californian
Cabernets. La Cave is a romantic, candlelit sanctuary for those who wish to dine
with a few close friends in a unique atmosphere.
On the sailing side, skippers are available for those who like to have someone on
board to help guide them through the islands or for non-sailors who prefer to let
someone else take the helm.
To find out more about the package contact [email protected]. For details
on all the Horizon Yacht Charters bases in the Caribbean
visit www.horizonyachtcharters.com.
Successful Atlantic Crossing for Mayrik P214
Regular Compass readers will recall we wrote back in February 2008 about Saint
Martin-based Belgian naval architect Yves Kinard’s project to create a small, comfortable and seaworthy motorboat with low fuel consumption that would ultimately
be able to cross the Atlantic solo. Well, the 21-foot Mayrik P214 MiniTrawler with
Perkins M92B engine successfully made the crossing earlier this summer, taking just 31
days to cover the 4,000 miles from Saint Martin, Netherlands Antilles, via Bermuda
and the Azores, to Saint Martin de Ré, close to La Rochelle on the Atlantic coast
of France.
The total fuel consumption was only 3,000 litres, representing a modest .75 litres
per mile. Economy, seaworthiness and comfort have always been paramount considerations in the boat’s design and evolution, and the creators are delighted with
the success of the crossing.
The Mayrik P214 will be shown at the La Grand Pavois Boat Show in La Rochelle
this month, and marketed in several versions including Trawler, Fishing (pleasure or
professional), Aft Cabin and Bermudian, with prices starting from 60,000 euros.
SEPTEMBER 2008
Although the Mayrik P214 is ideal for use in the Caribbean region between the
islands, Mayrik Yacht Design believes its main market will be truly international and is
currently seeking US- and Europe-based partners to work with them towards full
mass production.
For more information visit www.mayrik.com and click on P214
or email [email protected].
YSATT Showcases Chaguaramas Marine Services
The range of marine services and supplies offered in Chaguaramas will be on display at the Yacht Services Association of Trinidad & Tobago (YSATT) 6th annual
Marine Trades Show on Saturday October 18th. This dynamic, business-building event
brings together marine accessory manufacturers, distributors, suppliers, contractors
and buyers through a combination of exhibits, one-on-one meetings and product
demonstrations. It is the only show of its type in the southern Caribbean and provides
a great networking opportunity for the show’s visitors and participants. Entrance to
the event is free and there will be plenty of giveaways and promotional activities.
Trinidad has become a very popular destination for yachtsmen cruising the
Caribbean. Apart from its well-known geographic advantage below the critical hurricane belt, Trinidad has a lot to offer the yachting tourist — extensive repair services and
supplies that are available in a concentrated area, festivals and cultural attractions,
eco-tourism activities, good medical services and a vast range of shopping facilities.
PAGE 9
Grenada’s Whisper Cove Open for the Season
Whisper Cove Marina and Restaurant on the south coast of Grenada reopened
on August 20th. There’s room for a very few yachts at the dock, or you can arrive by
dinghy or by land. The cozy restaurant serves authentic French cuisine with a
Grenadian twist, such as grilled fish of the day with passionfruit crème.
CARIBBEAN COMPASS
Good things come in small packages. This cutie from St. Martin-based designer
Yves Kinard is economical to run
Caribbean Environment Journal Launched
Norman Faria reports: An impressive new regional
journal designed to provide background information
on the region’s environment and sustainable development was recently launched in Barbados.
JOHN WHITCHURCH BENNETT
CARIBBEAN
ECO-NEWS
NORMN FARIA
“There is a need for a journal which is dedicated to promoting and generating discussion on
the issues related to small island and low-lying
coastal developing states and their path of sustainable development,” noted the Introduction in
the Trinidad-published first issue.
The journal has several scholarly articles on
climate change and sustainable development,
background information on BPOA and a reprint
of the UN General Assembly Resolution on the
late Guyanese President Dr. Cheddi Jagan’s proposal for a New Global Human Order. The
launching ceremony was attended by regional
technicians, engineers and
other stakeholders in environmental work.
For more information contact
[email protected].
SEPTEMBER 2008
CARIBBEAN COMPASS
PAGE 10
Non-native red lionfish, probably released when a home
aquarium was washed off a
Florida porch by Hurricane
Andrew, now range from
Bermuda to the
Cayman Islands
Editor Nevin Chanderpaul (at left) presents inaugural
edition of Caribbean Environment Journal to Barbados
Environment Minister Dr. Esther Byer-Suckoo
The Editor in Chief of the quarterly publication is
Guyanese Navin Chanderpaul, who is presently advisor in the Guyana President’s Office on environmental matters. Mr. Chanderpaul has served within the
Caribbean region in positions of Chairman of the
CARICOM Task Force on the Environment (19921997), Chairman of the Caribbean Council for Science
and Technology (1995-2000) and Chairman of the
Steering Committee of the Caribbean Water
Partnership (2004-2006).
At a ceremony held at the Pomarine Hotel and
attended by Barbados’s Minister of the Environment,
Dr. Esther Suckoo-Byer, Chanderpaul pointed to the
“harsh realities” of globalization and trade liberalization together with global climate change posing new
threats to the physical environment. These challenges
affect not only small island states but also low-lying
coastal nations such as Guyana.
One of the aims of Caribbean Environment Journal is
to educate the public on the Barbados Declaration and
the Barbados Programme of Action (BPOA), which
came out of the 1994 United Nations Special Conference
on Sustainable Development of Small Island Developing
States (SIDS).
#ARAIBE'REEMENTPAGPDF
Red Lionfish Invade
North Caribbean
The red lionfish (Pterois volitans),
a native of the Indian and western
Pacific Oceans, is now found in the
northern
Caribbean
Sea.
Researchers believe lionfish were
introduced into the Atlantic Ocean in 1992, when
Hurricane Andrew shattered a private aquarium and six
of them spilled into Miami’s Biscayne Bay. Biologists
think the fish released floating sacs of eggs that rode the
Gulf Stream north along the US coast, leading to colonization of deep reefs off North Carolina and Bermuda.
Until recently, the lionfish invasion was mostly concentrated on the Bahamas, where it infested shallow
waters, reefs and mangrove thickets where baby fish
grow. Some spots in the Bahamian archipelago between
New Providence and the Berry Islands are reporting a
tenfold increase in lionfish over last year. Red lionfish
inhabit lagoons and turbid inshore areas and harbors
as well as offshore reefs in their native range.
Now this venomous coral reef fish is being found in
the northern Caribbean, feasting on native species of
fish and crustaceans. A single animal was reported to
have eaten 20 smaller fish in just half an hour. Red
lionfish are now being found on the coasts of Cuba,
Hispaniola and the Cayman Islands. Diving and fishfarming industries are concerned and some governments are urging fishermen to destroy the fish.
“This may very well become the most devastating
marine invasion in history,” said Mark Hixon, an
Oregon State University expert interviewed by
Associated Press. “There is probably no way to stop the
invasion completely.”
Adults can grow as large as 17 inches (43 cm), while
juveniles may be as small as an inch or less. All of the
spines on a lionfish are venomous, creating a danger
primarily to divers and fishermen if stung. Although
there have been no known fatalities caused by lionfish
stings, they are reportedly extremely painful.
Grenadines Hold Anti-Litter Workshop
The Sustainable Grenadines (SusGren) Project conducted a two-day workshop on “Caring for Litter” for
NGOs, grassroots and governmental organisations in
the Grenadines on July 15th and 16th at the Rotary
Club center in Bequia, with the hope of educating persons in the Grenadines about litter, its effects and how
to deal with it. The workshop, conducted by Joan Ryan
of the Solid Waste Management Unit of St. Vincent &
the Grenadines, attracted participants from the St.
Vincent Grenadine islands of Bequia, Union Island,
Canouan and Mayreau, and the Grenada Grenadines
of Carriacou and Petite Martinique.
The main focus of the workshop was to formulate
strategies to alleviate the problem of littering, developing strategies to change perceptions of littering, outlining the impact of littering on the environment and
economy of the Grenadines, and increasing awareness
of the ills of littering and the benefits that can be
derived by proper litter management and techniques
such as recycling.
To combat the problem of littering in the Grenadines,
participants were encouraged by SusGren Project
Manager, Martin Barriteau, to develop and submit
mini-projects based on the action plans developed for
the respective islands during the workshop and
pledged to assist in securing funding for the implementation of these projects.
—Continued on page 40
CARRIACOU REGATTA FESTIVAL 2008
A PERFECT
SUMMER
YACHT RACE!
by Jerry Stewart
DICK STOUTE
SEPTEMBER 2008
CARIBBEAN COMPASS
Racing, summer style. Bloody Mary in the Two-Handed (kids don’t count!) Round
Carriacou Race
QUIET CLEAN POWER
Generating 135 hp at a modest 2600 rpm in a 6 liter engine ensures
a long life in a bullet proof package.
This naturally aspirated engine boasts premium engine features for reliability, minimal down time and
service costs. It’s operator and environment friendly with low noise and low emissions achieved with the
new 'QUADRAM' combustion system and fully closed breather system.
The M135 is an excellent repower choice. One of the most compact packages in its class, it has been
designed to permit a wide range of operating angles and also offers easy access to all routine servicing
points in either single or twin installations.
High capacity heat exchange equipment with cupro-nickel tube stacks ensure low component operating
temperatures for exceptionally reliable and durable performance. Leak free operation is ensured by an
integral plate oil cooler and special crankshaft seals giving protection in the toughest conditions.
Competitive engine and parts pricing, extended service intervals and exceptionally low fuel consumption
make the M135 a cost effective choice with significant owner savings over alternative engines.
Call us on (284) 494 2830 for a dealer near you.
M65 M92B M115T M135 M225Ti M265Ti M300Ti
Sabre M135
PAGE 11
There is always an element of uncertainty associated with an August regatta. Will
it rain? Will there be squalls, or excitement of a “tropical” nature? Unsettled weather
kept nervous cruisers farther north than they otherwise would have been as
Carriacou Regatta Festival 2008 drew near.
It’s above all a working boat regatta, and the communities of Windward and Petite
Martinique spend the preceding weeks in preparation. We had the opportunity to see
five of the six decked sloops in the boatyard in Tyrrel Bay at the same time as they
joined the yachts all getting ready for Carriacou’s main annual sailing event.
The Carriacou Regatta Committee once again welcomed cruisers to participate in
the yacht races, with James Benoit from the Grenada Yacht Club acting as race
officer as usual. The yacht division was fortunate to retain support from sponsors
Mount Gay Rum, Doyle Sails Barbados, Island Water World and Budget Marine,
whose continued help in this low-key event gives them all credit. Additional prizes
were supplied by Bogles Round House, Lazy Turtle Pizzeria, Fidel Productions, GG
Design and Alexis Supermarkets — local businesses contributing to make this
regatta a success.
The Doyle Sails Two-Handed Round Carriacou Race, the regatta’s main event for
yachts, attracted 25 entries. The attraction of racing with only one’s normal cruising
crew (children do not count) maintains the popularity of the event. And Carriacou is
a very small island. The fleet ranged from Frank Pierce’s schooner Samhadi, at 55
feet, to the Laser raced by Andy Pell from the yacht Tixi Lixi. Last year’s Laser champion, Michel Weber (age 14), raced BM2, an Yngling, with crew Jason Tuson (also 14)
into third place.
Conditions were benign, and a lifting current, rare in these parts, made a mockery
of the usually favored routes. Richard Szyjan, from Turbulence Sails in Grenada,
came to Carriacou with Category 5, which was once a Hobie 33, and sped around
the island in an astonishing three hours and 28 minutes in winds that might have
peaked at 12 knots.
Cruising Class, for yachts with rating certificates, was split between the Beneteaus
and the old IOR yachts. Tabasco, a Swan 40 raced by Henry Crallan, battled with
Tim Sudell’s 44-foot Saga and my Hughes 38, Bloody Mary — all three being S&S
designs from the 1970s. Last year’s champion Windborne, Roy Hopper’s First 38, and
Tulachean II, Mike and Lucy Murchie’s Beneteau 38.5, achieved first and second
place, with Tabasco’s crew losing a well-deserved third when they found a wind hole
that refused to give them up. Bloody Mary slipped by to make third, with Saga
fourth, Tabasco escaping from the wind hole to take fifth in front of Richard Watson’s
Oyster 48, Sobriyah.
In Fun Class, where yachts are given a less precise rating based on owner’s declaration, Andy Smelt’s Spencer 44 Yellowbird managed to fight off a strong challenge
from Samadhi to achieve first place, with Michel Weber bringing BM2 into third. A
late squall gave the slower yachts and the Committee Boat a little excitement, but
served only to power up Uwe Gerstmann’s Joshua, Salai, ensuring his prompt return
in time for the CCEF auction (see item on page 6).
This year we had five multihulls. Don Marmo’s Ned Kelly returned to the island
to take top spot from Eddie’s Boanerges. Paul and Sally O’Regan’s Wharram cat
placed third.
In the South Coast Race on August 2nd, competitors again sailed in light winds
and a lifting current. The beauty of sailing in perfectly clear water of amazing colours
is a feature of the south coast of Carriacou. Category 5 again finished ahead to win
Racing Class. In Cruising Class, Windborne maintained first place, Bloody Mary
second and Tabasco a creditable third in conditions that don’t suit a Swan.
Fun Class saw Yellowbird ahead of Samadhi, with Mike Candlin’s Blue Sky sailing
well to grab third place, ahead of regatta regular Dominic Weber’s Sanctus, a
Jeanneau Sun Kiss 47. Thalia, Ivan Jefferis’s 1880s-vintage gaff cutter, managed to
be awarded a rating higher than the national debt of a small country, so sailed
majestically into corrected last place with incredible style, tops’l and all.
There was no yacht race on the Sunday, giving participants the opportunity to visit
the workboat regatta in Hillsborough.
Monday’s race offered, if anything, less wind. Lovely conditions for a gentle summer’s sail, but a little frustrating for Windborne in Cruising Class, as Bloody Mary
edged into first place ahead of her, with Tabasco and Saga taking third and fourth
respectively. Category 5 once again dominated the Racing Class, and in Fun Class
Samadhi deposed Yellowbird into second place, with Sanctus third and local sailor
Nolan Jules sailing Taliban into fourth.
All in all, it was a perfect summer regatta. The fun of the yacht races coupled with
the excitement of the decked sloops and open boats (see story on page 12) make this
a hard event to improve on.
CARRIACOU REGATTA FESTIVAL 2008
EVERY
year in early August all of my friends in Grenada
get together and make this huge trip to Barbados
for Crop Over. Now, I like the jump-up in the
streets, liming on the bikini cruise, listening to the Bajan DJs spinning their
sounds as much as the other guy. But yet every year, despite the taunts of my
friends, I end up jumping on a sailboat heading over to Carriacou.
The only way to explain this is: Carriacou. Carriacou — with its long history
of boatbuilding, captains and crews who take the business of winning as seriously as any America’s Cup team, parties that go on until the late hours of
the night, the street food, the steel bands, the donkey races, the greasy pole,
the crowd cheering from the Hillsborough jetty as their village heroes take to
the sea, the many heated discussions by the experts on the beach on why
Windward will always have the winning boat. This island and its regatta are
just simply alluring and I, for one, will be there every year. Carriacou offers
something authentic, something different, something not to forget.
This year was particularly special for me, as I was sailing aboard Savvy, a
traditional-style sloop built in Petite Martinique for Peter De Savary. The
Grenada Board of Tourism asked if Port Louis Marina and Camper &
Nicholsons (where I am Sales & Marketing Coordinator) could help entertain
press from Canada for the weekend. Of course! So we set sail from Port Louis
heading over to Carriacou.
Some background on Savvy. She was the first sloop built on Petite
Martinique in over 13 years. This tradition had been lost over the last few
decades and is only now seeing a major renaissance owing to a number of
persons very passionate about boatbuilding history. Take for instance Alexis
Andrews, Jeff Stevens and Alwin Enoe. Alexis’s new books Vanishing Ways…
Something Authentic
CARIBBEAN COMPASS
PAGE 12
by Danny Donelan
SEPTEMBER 2008
…and Genesis offer the funniest introduction you will read anywhere and the most beautiful photos of an art
form that continues to reinvent itself. Jeff runs day tours on Petit St. Vincent aboard his traditionally built
boat Jambalaya and is building another sloop on Petite Martinique as we speak. (Jeff, send me an invitation
to the christening! I love the parties on Petite Martinique.) Most important are the master boatbuilders such
as Alwin Enoe, who continue to do what their forefathers have been doing for so many years.
Sailing up along the west coast of Grenada this time of year is a treat in itself as you gaze over the lush
undulating hillside sprinkled with the orange of the flamboyant and immortelle trees and the homes that
hang precariously on stilts taller than the homes themselves. The island that captivates me most is
Diamond Rock (also known as Kick ’em Jenny). Sailing toward this granite fortress of a rock on your left,
with Isle de Ronde on your right, one cannot help but just stop talking (which, by the way, with me is not
too often), lean back and just enjoy how varied and beautiful this little piece of Paradise actually is.
Newport
Aarhus
Yacht at Rest, Mind at Ease
PREMIER SERVICE FOR ANY YACHT
RELIABLE FREQUENT SCHEDULES
UNIQUE DESTINATIONS
COMPETITIVE RATES
RELIABLE FREQUENT SCHEDULES
SAFEST
SAFEST WAY
WAY TO
TO SHIP
SHIP
DYT USA
Telephone: + 1 954-525-8707
[email protected]
UNIQUE
UNIQUE DESTINATIONS
DESTINATIONS
COMPETITIVE
COMPETITIVE RATES
RATES
DYT Newport R.I.
Telephone: +1 401 439 6377
[email protected]
PREMIER
PREMIER SERVICE
SERVICE FOR
FOR ANY
ANY YACHT
YACHT
DYT Martinique
Telephone: + 596 596 74 15 07
[email protected]
COMPETITIVE RATES
SAFEST WAY TO SHIP
UNIQUE DESTINATIONS
UNIQUE DESTINATIONS
SAFEST WAY TO SHIP
Southampton
Port Everglades
Cherbourg
Freeport
La Rochelle
Martinique
Genoa
Toulon
St. Thomas
Palma de Mallorca
Marmaris
BOOK NOW!
MARTINIQUE ➔ PALMA DE MALLORCA - LATE OCTOBER
MARTINIQUE ➔ LA ROCHELLE - EARLY DECEMBER
WO R L D C L A S S YAC H T LOG I S T IC S
W W W.Y A C H T - T R A N S P O R T. C O M
At the open boat races in Hillsborough
Sloops and Boats
Overall Winners
PAGE 13
Large Decked Sloops
1) Glacier, Kenrick Patrice, Carriacou
2) Margeto, Cyril Compton, Carriacou
3) Maristella, Michael Bethel, Carriacou
Small Decked Sloops
1) Run Away, Javid McLawrence, Carriacou
2) Small Pin, Hope McLawrence, Carriacou
Long Open Boats A
1) Hurricane, Benson Patrice, Carriacou
2) Passion, Matthew Joseph, Carriacou
Long Open Boats B
1) Limbo, Allick Daniel, Bequia
2) Ace, D. Joseph, Carriacou
Stern Boats
1) Outrage, Emmanuel Bethel, Petite Martinique
2) Ghost, Cosmos Bethel, Petite Martinique
Small Open Boats A
1) Pimpy, Verol Compton, Carriacou
2) Ark Royal, Roy Delisle, Petite Martinique
3) Devine, Delacey Leslie, Bequia
Small Open Boats B
1) Now 4 Now, Clayton DeRoche, Petite Martinique
2) Solo, Adrian Bethel, Petite Martinique
3) Parasite, Gerald Bethel, Petite Martinique
Small Open Boats C
1) Bad Feelings, Samuel Forde, Mayreau
2) D-Shark, Hudson Williams, Canouan
3) I’m Alive, Adolphus Forde, Mayreau
Small Open Boats D
1) Swift, Martin Alexander, Grenada
2) Endeavor, Jahvid George, Grenada
3) Classic, C. Bernadine, Grenada
CARIBBEAN COMPASS
quite closely at the start. When we hit the downwind
leg, the spinnakers are shot out. Passing by
Hillsborough then Sandy Island we head for the
upwind leg. This is where the seas get a bit harsher
but Savvy is handling them well. The race is won by
Cyril Compton’s Margeto, with Glacier and Maristella
taking second and third place respectively.
After a long day we pass Windward and head over to
Hillsborough for the night’s activities. One of the comments I have to make about Carriacou Regatta and
the organizing committee is that there is always something happening on the island, and they are always
fun events. Tonight we are heading out to look for
some street food and take in a bit of the Ms. Aquaval
Queen Show.
The Jupa is the spot on the island where all of the
regatta events concentrate. With a number of bars all
within a few feet of each other right on the beach, this
is the spot where the DJs are blasting all of the new
soca and calypso songs for Grenada Carnival, which is
the following week. It’s the spot where you will hear
the news of the day and who beat whom. (Passion was
victorious in today’s special Long Open Boats race.)
It’s also the spot where you get the best street food on
the island. On either side of the street the steel-drum
barbecues and makeshift bars are plying their trade
while the soca reverberates through your soul. The
Queen Show is equally exciting as Ms. Grenada, Ms.
Carriacou, Ms. Petite Martinique, Ms. Union Island,
Ms. St. Lucia and Ms. Bequia strut their stuff on stage
for a very appreciative audience. Ms. Barbados,
Marsha Whittaker, was named Queen.
Sunday reaches, and it’s our last day. Breakfast at
Snagg’s Beach Bar, which is the quaintest spot on the
beach in Hillsborough overlooking the racing. Today
it’s the smaller workboats on the beach and the kids
in the Optimists. The crowds have gathered and are
talking animatedly about who the winner will be. All
races start from the beach with the racers pushing or
carrying their boats into the water then setting off on
the course. Ballast includes crew and sandbags which
you can see crew throwing over the side to lighten the
load at many points during the day. “Carriacou
Cigarettes” (very fast speedboats built in
Carriacou) can be seen with sunshades up,
zooming by, taking spectators out to shout
encouragement to their racing friends.
This is a festival for everyone — racers and landlubbers alike. Donkey races, lime-and-spoon (running down the road without letting the lime fall out
of the spoon), tug-o-war and greasy pole are some
of the activities happening on land while the racers
are out on the water. The greasy pole provides quite
a lot of laughs as the contestants walk precariously along a pole covered in grease, the object to
get to the end and pull off a flag. Fortunately for the
contestants, the pole is extended over the water.
Once again the races end with all enjoying themselves at the Jupa, discussing the day’s racing
while the soca belts out of the oversized speakers
and the street vendors light up their barbecues.
This is the sort of festival where you realize, after
four days of sailing, partying and meeting some
really interesting people, that sometimes it’s more
fulfilling to be in a place that feels real, a place that
has an authentic culture and fun people who are
out to enjoy themselves. All of this, and you have
the beauty of Grenada and the Grenadines and
their people as the backdrop to one cool place to be
in August.
SEPTEMBER 2008
Our first stop was Sandy Island off Carriacou. I
mean, after all of the hard work sailing up here, you
have to at least stop for a swim and a cold drink before
the night’s activities. Just to set the stage for those of
you who have never been to Sandy Island, it is, as its
name suggests, a sandbar in the middle of the sea with
a few trees all full of pelicans, some makeshift ponds
constructed out of discarded conch shells, and the
most beautiful white sand you will see anywhere.
Enough relaxing for now: time to head off to dinner.
Tonight the Board of Tourism and the two Dexters
(Leggard and Lendore) from the Carriacou Regatta
Committee are taking us over to Bogles Round House
for an excellent meal. Bogles Round House is a story
in itself. It was constructed by Kim and Sue Russell,
who sailed to Grenada in 1990 from South America
with their three young children. They stopped here to
clear Customs and never left. From all accounts they
were a rather interesting set and set about to build an
unusual house with no straight edges. One of the
quirkiest buildings, it resembles an egg from the outside and everything on the inside has a story as all of
the materials have been recycled. So we all sat in this
eclectic building and I must thank Roxanne (Grenada’s
Chef of the Year) for one of the best meals I have had
in a long time and definitely one of the best chocolate
desserts anywhere in the world. Ohhh, as your fork
cuts the chocolate, the hot chocolate sauce just
streams out onto your plate.
Day Two. At some point during the night, I put my
foot on the deck to stop the hammock from swinging
the opposite direction from the boat. I awake, check
out the stragglers sleeping on the beach after last
night’s party, and jump into the sea. Then I start cooking breakfast for the other sleepy-heads waking up.
Bacon, eggs, avocados, sardines, mangoes and limejuice, and we are good to go. Today is the trial race for
the island sloops, so off we go from Hillsborough heading to Windward. Unfortunately the weather and the
captain, who has a wedding to attend in Petite
Martinique, have other plans for us.
So we dodge a few small squalls (mostly rain) and
head over for the wedding. I have never in my life
crashed a wedding before, but I have also never felt so
welcomed by complete strangers. Quite unusual, the
weddings on this island. Everyone gets together and
contributes a little something to the fête. The party
starts at 9:00AM, only to stop so everyone can go to the
church for the formalities, then it’s back to the fête
and the Heinekens are flowing like water. I have never
seen so many cases of Heinekens in my life: it’s like
everyone on the island has their personal stockpile. At
about 9:00PM I’d had enough but the other guests were
still there partying like crazy on the beach.
Day Three is the Round the Island Race, so we head
over to Windward for the start. Going into the channel
at Windward you encounter the most lovely sight. I’m
always amazed at this spot on Carriacou, with its
beautiful traditional wooden homes on the beach
bunched together with the backdrop the Grenadine
islands and some of the clearest, bluest waters.
This is the only regatta where there is no countdown
to the start. The rule is: just try be as close to the committee boat as possible, once it arrives, because when
they shoot that gun the race is off. So everyone is making tight tacks around the committee boat and then,
BANG, the gun fires and six sloops are competing
REGATTA
NEWS
SEPTEMBER 2008
CARIBBEAN COMPASS
PAGE 14
Team T&T Tops Dinghy Champs
Teams from six different Caribbean islands, comprising some 40 young sailors, competed in the
Caribbean Dinghy Championship regatta, held in
Antigua on July 19th and 20th. The event was hosted
by the Antigua Yacht Club. The Caribbean Dinghy
Championship, sanctioned by the Caribbean Sailing
Association, is held in a different country every year.
Trinidad & Tobago took home the Caribbean
Dinghy Championships’ trophy for 2008, for the first
time since the start of the event in 1985. Support by
the Sports Company of Trinidad & Tobago during the
past two years enabled the Trinidad & Tobago Sailing
Association to appoint specialist race coaches for the
Optimist and Laser class.
The best class results came from ten-year-old Myles
Kaufmann who won seven out of the nine races in the
Optimist 11-years-and-under class, taking home first prize.
Trinidad & Tobago’s 18-year-old Andrew Lewis won
the Laser Standard class, holding Antigua’s Sean
Malone at bay by three points. Alistair Affoo, 17, also
of T&T, had some stiff competition in the Laser Radial
class, which was won by Nicolas Rendu from
Martinique. A battle for second place between Alistair
and Ray Potter from Antigua took place on Sunday
when both sailors were tied at 19 points with one race
remaining. In the deciding race of the Championships,
Alistair managed to beat Ray in a one-on-one fight,
finishing first in the final race of the event.
Trinidad & Tobago will defend their title next year,
Team T&T with the Caribbean Dinghy Championship Trophy. From left to right: Andrew Lewis, Alistair Affoo,
Jordan Rousseau, Myles Kaufmann, Mark Peters, Joseph Moraine and coach Philip de Gannes
when the Caribbean Dinghy Championships will be
held in Martinique.
For more information on youth sailing in Trinidad &
Tobago visit www.ttsailing.org.
Records Fall in Two July Fishing Events
Derek Quetel reeled in a tournament record-setting
54.11-pound kingfish at the 20TH ANNIVERSARY
BASTILLE DAY KINGFISH TOURNAMENT in St Thomas,
USVI, held on July 13th.
As Carol Bareuther reports, Quetel was fishing
aboard the 27-foot Rambo, 4 KIT 2. It was mid-morning
when the whopper hit on a ballyhoo-rigged line.
“It just blasted out of nowhere,” he says. “I was captaining at the time. I asked my friend to grab the wheel,
and then I turned, grabbed my rod and hooked up. I
had him in the boat in about 15 to 20 minutes.”
After that, Quetel says, “We didn’t see any more.
That was the last fish of the day for us.”
Quetel pocketed US$2,000 in cash for his Largest
Kingfish, sponsored by N.E.M. (West Indies) Insurance
Limited, managed in the USVI by Red Hook Agencies,
Inc, and also a weekend for two at Divi Carina Bay
Beach Resort & Casino, with airline tickets compliments of Seaborne Airlines.
With 12 fish (187.14-pounds) caught total, five
(124.89-pounds) of them kingfish, Quetel also won Best
Boat and Best Captain, and was awarded $1,000
cash for each title, from Offshore Marine and Yanmar.
Meanwhile, Stéphane Legendre reports from
Guadeloupe that the GUADELOUPE LAND ROVER
FISHING FESTIVAL 2008, OCEAN YACHTS EDITION, dates
were changed from November to July — and it
seemed to have been the right decision!
This year’s catches had nothing in common with
last year’s. A 122-pound tuna was landed on the first
day and a 489-pound blue marlin (validated by the
International Fishing Association) on the second day
of the four-day competition. The island’s previous
blue marlin record of 409 pound was finally broken
after six years.
It took Gustavia II’s Guadeloupean crew an hour
and ten minutes to hoist the blue marlin on board
after a great fight and for Franck Nouy, the owner of
Gustavia II, only ten minutes to become the owner of
a beautiful, four-wheel-drive Land Rover Defender G4.
Sixteen boats joined this year’s tournament, which
ran from July 15th through 19th. Boats came from
Antigua, Saint Lucia, Martinique and Guadeloupe.
The festival was hosted by Marina Bas du Fort.
NORTHSIDE SPORTFISHING CLUB
The Wednesday, Thursday and Friday were full fishing days, and the Saturday was dedicated to an
all-day party and relaxation at Gosier Islet beach.
Although the change from November to July
brought a great catch, the BVI hosts an international tournament at the same time, so next year’s
event will be held from May 5th through 9th,
hoping for equally excellent fishing and
increased participation.
For more information on the Guadeloupe Fishing
Festival 2009 contact Jean Marie Rosemont at
(590 690) 554 662 or visit www.fishing-festival.com.
Front row from left to right: Tamika Amey, Alvin Turbe,
winning angler Derek Quetel, Steve Turbe, Ernest Quetel, Jr.
Back row: The winning total catch’s 125 pounds of kingfish!
Introducing the NEW
Errol Flynn Marina & Boatyard
PROTECT YOUR INVESTMENT ON
THE WATER THIS HURRICANE SEASON
Out of the Water Storage Up to 95 Feet Full Service Marina
100 Ton Travel-lift
24 Hour Fuel
Paint Sheds
Engine and Part Specialists
Duty Free Zone in Marina
Protected Harbor
Depth Up to 25 Feet at Face Dock
Open Air Market 1 Minute by Foot
Downtown Nightlife
24 Hour Security Gated Marina
Restaurant, Beach Bar & Grille
The only 100-ton travel lift in this part of the
Caribbean, servicing yachts up to 95' in length.
Contact John Louis • 876-715-6044 • 876-873-4412
e-mail: [email protected] • VHF Channel 16
www.errolflynnmarina.com
Navigating the good life
PAGE 15
PORT ANTONIO, JAMAICA
CARIBBEAN COMPASS
Nix to Enter Golden Rock Regatta
The organizers of the Golden Rock Regatta, now
in its fourth year, announced the entry of the
60-foot racing sloop Nix.
The regatta starts from Great Bay, St. Maarten, on
November 10th with a pursuit race to Gustavia,
‘Spice Girls’ Prepare for Caribbean
July 25th saw the Class 40 Concise hold the first
trial for its all-female crew for the forthcoming Spice
Race from England to the Caribbean. The hopeful
“Spice Girls”, Carrie Biggs, Jamie Harris and Eleanor
Littlejohn, took Concise up the Solent before performing a series of spinnaker jibes back towards
their home base in the Hamble.
The Spice Race starts on November 15th from the
Royal Squadron line in Cowes, before the 4,321-mile
run to Port Louis Marina, St. George’s, Grenada.
Competitors will cross the English Channel and the
Bay of Biscay and then head south along the
Atlantic coasts of France, Spain and Portugal. After
passing the Strait of Gibraltar the yachts will head
for the Canary Islands and leave La Palma to starboard, then search for the tradewinds. Crossing the
Atlantic, they’ll leave Barbados to port.
The organisers are seeking to hold “an event within an event” with several National Ladies’ Teams
racing against each other offshore for the first time.
Currently there are teams from England and
Holland showing interest, with a chance of additional competitors from the United States, France
and Ireland.
Meanwhile, interest in the main event for Class 40
and IRC yachts continues to build, with enquiries
coming from countries including China, Norway,
South Africa, Germany, France and the UK.
SEPTEMBER 2008
Women’s Keelboat Champs Set for November
The Women’s Caribbean One-Design Keelboat
Championship 2008 is scheduled for November 1st
and 2nd in St. Maarten. The regatta, organized by
the Sint Maarten Yacht Club, will be sailed on a
one-design fleet of identical Sun Fast 20 boats from
Lagoon Sailboat Rentals. The regatta will either be
sailed in a two-pool format, which will result in a
final of a Gold Fleet and a Silver Fleet, or in a onefleet rotation of boats.
Teams are expected from Barbados, Trinidad &
Tobago, Antigua, the British Virgin Islands and possibly farther afield, as well as from St. Maarten.
The regatta will be open to up to 18 teams. Each
team may only race with not less than three and
not more than four women per team on the boat.
Teams should wear co-ordinated coloured shirts or
outfits, which have the function of identifying the
teams during sailing to the committee and spectators. For this reason, the shirts should be distinct
colours. The regatta will not provide for these shirts
or outfits.
Registration, welcoming party and the skippers’
briefing will be on Friday October 31st at 6:00PM, at
the Sint Maarten Yacht Club. Prizes will be awarded
after the racing on Sunday November 2nd at the
Sint Maarten Yacht Club.
For more information contact
[email protected].
St. Barths. This will be followed on the second day
with a race to Frigate Bay, St. Kitts. After an overnight
there, the fleet continues to Statia: “The Golden
Rock”. Here the fleet will stay two days and sail two
windward/leeward races before the grand finale
race from Statia back to Oyster Pond in St. Martin.
The regatta is a feature on many Dutch sailing
enthusiasts’ calendars and now growing in popularity with US-based sailors. Local sailors are also showing interest and are already looking at their schedules to take the time off to race.
This regatta has featured on the popular
European TV Sailing Channel and in many prominent sailing magazines and publications.
Race organizer Jules Hermsen reported that he
has received 15 entries already, with a number of
teams forming in the USA and interest from
Germany and Belgium.
For more information contact local organizer
Bea Hootsmans at [email protected].
As well as boats wanting to race, there have been enquiries from people who want to charter boats and individuals looking for crew positions, both paid and paying.
For more information on the Spice Race visit www.
spicerace.com or contact Tony Lawson at Lawson@
longdene.co.uk.
SEPTEMBER 2008
CARIBBEAN COMPASS
PAGE 16
Aruba Heineken Beach Cat Regatta
The Aruba Heineken Catamaran Regatta 2008 will
take place from the 13th to the 23rd of November.
Approximately 50 catamaran teams are expected to
compete. The Dutchmen Eduard van Zanen and
Mischa Heemskerk claimed the title in 2007 after a
tough competition. They will compete again this year
to defend their title.
The program will be one day longer this year, to
make nine days in all, so that the mainly European
contestants will have more time to acclimatize.
A total of 12 races will be spread over five competition days. These races vary from short to (semi) longdistance races along the beautiful Aruban coast and
through the challenging lagoon.
The organization is expecting participants from the
Netherlands, Belgium, France, Germany, Austria,
Switzerland and the UK. This year local teams from
Aruba will participate, and probably some from the
United States as well.
It is now possible to register on the new website
www.arubaregatta.nl. For more information contact
Edwin Lodder at [email protected].
Transatlantic Maxi Yacht Cup 2008
Originally conceived in 2007 as a biennial event, the
Transatlantic Maxi Yacht Cup will take place in 2008
based on the success of the inaugural event held last
fall, and early inquiries suggest a number of boats are
already making plans to challenge for the title.
Organized by the Yacht Club Costa Smeralda (YCCS),
the starting gun for the 2008 Transatlantic Maxi Yacht
Cup will sound on Monday, November 24, in Santa
Cruz de Tenerife (the largest of the seven Canary
Islands off the northwest coast of Africa), setting the
Maxis racing across the North Atlantic Ocean. It should
take them roughly two weeks to reach the finish line off
the island of Sint Maarten in the Netherlands Antilles.
Two Maxis which have submitted their 2008 entry
forms are Sojana, the 115-foot Farr-designed
Bermudian ketch owned by Peter Harrison (GBR), and
Bossanova, the Simonis 67 belonging to YCCS member Pietro Motta (ITA). Sojana is familiar with victory in
Caribbean waters having won the St. Barth Bucket
(2007) as well as the St. Martin Heineken Regatta
(2008, 2007). She will be looking to improve on her
second-place real time finish behind Nariida, the
Wally owned by Morten Bergesen (NOR), who took
line honors in the 2007 inaugural event.
The Transatlantic Maxi Yacht Cup is promoted by
the International Maxi Association (IMA), with YCCS
organizing the regatta in collaboration with the Real
Club Náutico de Tenerife for the start and the Sint
Maarten Yacht Club for the finish. It is open to
monohull Maxi yachts with a minimum overall length
of 18 metres (59 feet) that are in compliance with the
IMA’s five division regulations (Racing, Cruising, Wally,
Spirit of Tradition and Mini Maxi).
The Notice of Race can be found at www.yccs.it/
portal/regatta.php?eventid=142&target=noticeofrace.
Kayak Race Series Coming
The Caribbean Mini-Tour of 2008 consists of two kayak
races. The Soualiga Challenge, a well-established
25-kilometre race from St. Barths to St. Maarten across
the open water of the St Barths channel, will be held on
September 28th, followed by the Defis Guadeloupe on
October 4th and 5th, which will have a new course this
year, starting at Desirade Island and finishing in St.
François on the south coast of Guadeloupe.
Open-water kayak racing is an up-and-coming sport. The Caribbean Mini-Tour 2008 includes
a St Barths-to-St Maarten leg, plus a new course from Desirade to Guadeloupe
The races have been planned to slot in
immediately after the US Championships, to
allow paddlers to compete in San Francisco,
come down to the Caribbean, and then continue to the Mayor’s Cup in New York later
in October.
Interest for 2008 has been high, with committed paddlers from the Caribbean region, the
USA, France, South America and Sweden showing interest.
For more information contact Stuart Knaggs
at [email protected] or Olivier
Tanton at [email protected].
and sail towards the finish line in Great Bay.
Organizers received the authorization from the
Sint Maarten Port Authorities to dock the Tall
Ships at the Pointe Blanche cruise ship pier so
that passengers can disembark and an
onboard VIP reception can be held that
Saturday evening after the race. The general
public will have the opportunity to visit the
ships on Sunday morning while they are in
Great Bay.
The regular schooners, vintage, spirit of tradition and classic yachts in the regatta will set sail
again that Sunday morning for the last regatta
day, towards Anguilla and return to the finish in
Great Bay in the afternoon.
A promotional version of the 2008 regatta
documentary has been published at
www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ad-iD92BtCw.
For more information visit
www.ClassicRegatta.com.
Third Superyacht Cup Antigua
The third Superyacht Cup Antigua will be held
from December 9th through 12th, in Nelson’s
Dockyard, English Harbour, Antigua. The event
is timed to follow on from the Antigua Yacht
Charter Show, December 4th through 9th.
This year, ten to 12 yachts are expected to
take part, and already confirmed is the recently launched P2, the 38-metre (125-foot) sloop
designed by Philippe Briand and built by Perini
Navi. Last year’s winner, Sojana, the 35-metre
ketch owned by Peter Harrison, will be back to
defend her title.
For more information visit
www.thesuperyachtcup.com.
A warm welcome awaits you and your yacht at Port Louis
CARIBBEAN COMPASS
Tall ships like Caledonia will be a special attraction at the
St. Maarten-St. Marin Classic Yacht regatta in January
SEPTEMBER 2008
Calling All Tall Ships!
West Indies Events and the St. Maarten-St.
Martin Classic Yacht Regatta Foundation are
inviting all Tall Ships to come to St. Maarten in
January 2009. A special course for those vessels
has been added in the fourth classic regatta,
which will be held during the third week of
January. The Tall Ships will not have to pay a
fee to participate in the St. Maarten-St. Martin
Classic Yacht Regatta.
The fourth Invitational St. Maarten-St. Martin
Classic Yacht Regatta 2009 kicks off on
Thursday January 22nd with a skippers’ briefing
and official opening ceremony. Sailing starts
the next day, racing from Great Bay to Marigot
where the yachts will be the guests of
Fort Louis Marina.
Saturday will be the special Tall Ships Day when
all classics and the Tall Ships will start at Marigot
International Rolex Regatta 2009
The 36th running of the International Rolex
Regatta is sure to build on its past successes,
which this year included the addition of IRC
racing and joining with the BVI Spring Regatta
to offer the inaugural Virgin Islands Race Week.
With next year’s racing scheduled for Friday,
March 27 through Sunday, March 29, the
International Rolex Regatta is one of the most
popular of several Caribbean sailing events
that, when strung together, can keep a hardcore, fun-loving racer occupied in the islands
for the better part of two months. While it is part
of the US-IRC Gulf Stream Series, the event also
hosts classes for CSA (or “Caribbean Rule”) racing as well as one-designs, beach cats and
large multihulls.
“We’ve proudly hosted this regatta since
1974,” says William Newbold, Commodore of
St. Thomas Yacht Club. “Over three days, the
finest yachtsmen and yachtswomen from
around the Caribbean, United States, and
Europe join in world-class racing in a spectacular environment, which includes the warm,
clear waters surrounding our club. It’s an
adventurous way to get a jump on their summer sailing season.”
For more information
visit www.rolexcupregatta.com.
PAGE 17
Port Louis, Grenada
Limited availability
Nowhere extends a warmer welcome than Port Louis, Grenada. Visitors can expect
powder-white beaches, rainforests, spice plantations and a calendar packed with
regattas and festivals. Grenada is also the gateway to the Grenadines, one of the
world’s most beautiful and unspoilt cruising areas.
Slips are available for sale or rental. For a private consultation to discuss
the advantages of slip ownership, please contact our International Sales Manager,
Anna Tabone, on +356 2248 0000 or email [email protected]
Now there’s another good reason to visit. There are 50 new fully serviced slips for yachts
of all sizes up to 90m available right now for sale or rental.
Sitting alongside the marina, the forthcoming Port Louis Maritime Village will include luxury
hotels, villas, restaurants and bars, plus some of the ﬁnest boutiques and shops in the region.
ITALY
|
MALTA
|
TURKEY
|
WEST INDIES
To fully appreciate this rare opportunity, we highly recommend a visit. To arrange an
on-site meeting please contact our Sales and Marketing Co-ordinator, Danny Donelan
on +1(473) 435 7432 or email [email protected]
and the missus, Yvonne, aboard
Chaser II, and our friends Chris and
Tony on Waylander cruised the
Greater Antilles this past winter. We made our way
via the south coast of the Dominican Republic to Ileà-Vache, Haiti and then to Jamaica before arriving at
this year’s westernmost destination, Cuba.
We had sailed to the Greater Antilles direct from
Venezuela on our 44-foot Hunter Legend Deck Saloon.
During the three-day crossing from Isla Blanquilla to
Casa de Campo Marina in the Dominican Republic we
encountered some bad weather, and our thoughts at
that time had already turned to our return trip to
Venezuela. Would it be easiest to hop down the island
chain, or sail east to Puerto Rico then across to
Blanquilla, or maybe even go east to the Dominican
Republic and then across to Curaçao or Bonaire?
Any of these routes involved working against the
wind and current. No way did we want to encounter
the weather we’d had coming north, so we again made
every effort to get a correct forecast, erring on the side
of caution. Yes, we’re sailors and some would say we
shouldn’t concern ourselves about a storm or two.
Ordeal or adventure: it’s a state of mind. Maybe, but
Yvonne and I are here to enjoy our sailing experiences
not to punish ourselves and our home. We have all the
adventure we need.
On our way to Cuba we had stopped in the Errol
Flynn Marina in Port Antonio on the eastern end of
Jamaica. In the greenest part of Jamaica, it is beautiful. (Ironically, like Trinidad, Venezuela and Haiti,
Jamaica had been on a list we were once given of
places to avoid.) At that time we could only stay a
couple of days, so our route south had to include a
return visit.
Many years ago, the film star and yachtsman Errol
Flynn was captivated by the Port Antonio area and
reportedly commented that it was more beautiful than
Don’t Worry Be Happy
in Jamaica —
and then Back
to Venezuela
by Phil Chapman
Above: Only 300 metres from the marina, Tony dinghies over a pretty reef in Port Antonio
Below: The main channel entrance
any woman he had seen (and legend has it he made
efforts to see a few). The actor once owned a hotel in
Port Antonio and his widow still resides here on a
2000-acre ranch that she manages herself. As a tribute to the swashbuckling icon who starred in movies
such as “Captain Blood”, “In the Wake of the Bounty”
and “The Sea Hawk”, the owners of the marina at Port
Antonio changed its name during a refurbishment to
Errol Flynn Marina.
The entrance to the bay is absolutely stunning; the
colours of the reef, the water, the vegetation and the
mountains are breathtaking. As you turn the corner,
the marina appears with Navy Island on one side and
a small deserted beach on the other. It is totally protected from the wind and waves.
Errol Flynn Marina is a 32-slip yacht complex that
accommodates vessels up to 350 feet LOA with a
maximum depth of 17 feet. It also boasts single and
three-phase power and shore storage and is an official
port of entry with 24-hour Customs and Immigration.
Boat repairs and maintenance are available at the fullservice boatyard, which features a 100-ton boatlift,
the only one of its kind in this part of the Caribbean.
The marina also has free WiFi — something that’s
often not mentioned.
We were surprised that the marina is not continually full, but slips were available on both our visits.
SEPTEMBER 2008
CARIBBEAN COMPASS
PAGE 18
ME
marina internacional
■
El Morro Tourist Complex ■ Puerto La Cruz ■ Venezuela
Lat. 10° 12' 24"N
Long. 64° 40' 5"W
No hurricanes 270sq. miles of calm seas Full amenities
Phone: (58-281) 267-7412 Fax: (58-281) 2677-810 VHF Channel 71 Web page:
http://bahiaredonda.com.ve
E-Mail: [email protected]
THE CRUISING SAILOR`S CHANDLERY SINCE 1990
AMERON ABC 3 TIN FREE SELF POLISHING ANTIFOULING PAINT
CORNER: MIRANDA & GUARAGUAO, PUERTO LA CRUZ, VENEZUELA
TEL: 58 (281) 265-3844 - E-MAIL : [email protected]
For those who prefer, the anchorage is superb, and
for a small fee the amenities of the marina (swimming
pool, laundry, etcetera) are available. George, the dockmaster, and Dale, the marina manager, personally welcome all new arrivals and are on hand whenever you
need assistance.
Within the marina area you can walk along to the
small, underutilized cruise ship dock. The little beach
by the dock is beautiful and there is a lovely bar and
restaurant alongside. The landscaping is gorgeous.
About a hundred yards across the water is Navy
Island, Errol Flynn’s former Paradise. Here once was a
beautiful hotel, pool, bar and restaurant with white
sandy beaches overlooking the Caribbean. Now all the
buildings are derelict, the gardens overgrown, and
beaches difficult to access.
Although there have been rumours of plans to make
the whole area, not just Navy Island, more commercialized, like many other resort areas in Jamaica,
many people would like to see it remain as it is. For the
moment, this really is a jewel in the Caribbean.
Outside the marina gates is a lovely, picture-postcard
Caribbean town, with maybe a touch of Olde England.
There are bright colours, mostly well-tended houses and
shops, street vendors and markets, good bars and
quaint eateries. It’s safe to walk the streets, day or night,
and the local people always have time for a chat.
Time went very quickly here, and it is somewhere we
could have stayed longer. We did a lot of walking
Above: Outside the marina gates is a picture-postcard Caribbean town
Left: A well-sheltered, nicely landscaped marina with
free WiFi, no less — we were pleased to get a slip here
both times we visited
SEPTEMBER 2008
CARIBBEAN COMPASS
PAGE 19
around the town, the beaches and the fort. We traveled
by car to some of the local sights of the Port Antonio
area, seeing some attractive bays that may not quite
be suitable for an overnight anchorage. On the beach
we sampled some local barbecued jerk chicken that
was amazing — or should I say a-blazing? Boy, it’s hot
stuff! We got the guy to put some of his homemade jerk
sauce in a pot to take away. We have it on board in a
glass jar and it doesn’t seem to have eaten through the
glass yet.
Tony and Sharon, whose yacht Hoofbeats was also in
the marina, suggested we all go on a river-rafting trip.
Yvonne and I had been rafting in Venezuela, but that
was in white water — fast, brilliant, but over very
quickly. Here the river trip is more relaxed. In fact,
there are times when the river is too high and the water
running too fast and the rafting has to be cancelled.
What a great, relaxing day we all had! Our trip was
a very leisurely drift down the river with two passengers per raft together with the “driver”. It’s pretty much
a full day out, with maybe an hour’s drive by taxi there
and the same home again. The river trip itself is about
three hours, with a lunch stop on the riverbank.
The lunch was superb: nothing fancy or touristy. A
girl on the shore prepared and barbecued chicken and
fish, and served it with rice and beans, for anyone
passing. She had a couple of tables and benches and
a cold-box for beers. The prices were good, too, even
though I believe we passengers paid for our “chauffeurs”’ meals and drinks.
and set off.
Our decision was to steer slightly south of east. That
way, if the weather forecast was wrong and the conditions not suitable after a day or so, we could turn
north to the Dominican Republic and wait there until
things improved.
SEPTEMBER 2008
CARIBBEAN COMPASS
PAGE 20
After lunch we plunged into the river for a cool-down
and a swim — no swimsuits necessary here. No, you
don’t go naked: just go in the clothes you’re wearing.
They dry in minutes and meanwhile help keep you cool
back on the raft.
A superb lunch was prepared on the riverbank: nothing fancy or touristy
Bring a hat or some shade: there is none on the raft
and very little breeze. You might also need some bug
spray if you’re prone to attack.
This eastern part of Jamaica really is precious: probably one of most attractive areas — if not the most
attractive — we’ve been to in the Caribbean so far. We
really didn’t want to leave, but with the thought of our
easterly trip ahead, leave we must.
We were constantly watching the weather on the
internet and also talking to weather guru Chris Parker
on the radio. A weather window opened which looked
good for the next few days. It predicted ten knots of
wind and calmish seas — when it’s on the nose we
don’t want any more. So, we said our good-byes to the
marina staff and newly acquired friends in the marina
As it turned out, 36 hours out of Jamaica, the sea
was still kind, there were only ten knots of wind and
there was little current against us. Our GRIB files were
showing that these conditions would stay for the next
few days, so we hung a right and headed direct to
Curaçao.
After four days and nearly 600 miles we arrived in
Curaçao, having had an unbelievably comfortable
motorsail all the way, averaging just over 150 miles
per day. Yes, we had to motor to help us point, but we
enjoyed the trip.
We stayed in Curaçao for a week or so to see some
sights, do a bit of retail therapy and visit the chandlers. I managed to get the new blades for my wind
genny after a bird attack, and gathered a few other bits
and pieces that we might find hard to get elsewhere.
The meat market was good, too — they had some great
ribs and sausage. But our fridge and freezer were still
full of wine and lobster, so we had to frantically eat
shellfish and drink wine for the next few days to
accommodate some of these beautiful porkies. The
cruising life is tough, aye!
Just across the road from our anchorage in Spanish
Waters was a small beach with beautifully clear water.
There is also a sunken tugboat, which makes for interesting snorkeling and diving. The crews of Waylander
and Hoofbeats, who accompanied us, are certified
PADI open water divers. Yvonne and I weren’t yet, so
we decided to take a try-out dive with the others. It
would count towards our course if we decided to continue. Our weather window to move on would open in
three or four days time, so we just had time to do the
course. It was a hard three days, diving in the mornings and taking classes in the afternoon plus getting
the boat ready for sailing off, but we did it. Downtown
Diving was the dive school, right on the beach: our
instructor was excellent and the price was good.
We wanted to arrive back in Venezuela by the beginning of June. Yvonne had to fly back to Spain by the
10th to take part in the Moors and Christians Fiesta
(it’s like a smaller version of Trinidad Carnival), to see
our son and then go on to the UK to see her father and
our daughter.
I don’t know why we bother planning anything. We
should have learnt by now, because we always end up
doing something else. Our “plan” had been to visit the
islands of Bonaire, Las Aves, Los Roques and Tortuga
on our way back to Puerto La Cruz. But then some
people we met in the anchorage who are regular travelers back and forth suggested that it is far better when
going east to coast-hop along the Venezuelan mainland, avoiding strong currents and headwinds.
So we headed southeast from Curaçao to Ensa Cata.
After spending the night there, we were up early the
next morning to sail to Marina Carabelleda. Our next
overnight stop was Carenero, then Islas Piritu only 20
miles west of Puerto La Cruz. Coast-hopping worked
for us. We had some of the best sailing we had in a
long time pretty much all the way from Curaçao along
the Venezuelan coast to Puerto La Cruz. With calm
seas and sunshine we made seven to eight knots over
the ground under sail. Plus we stayed upright — in a
monohull. All the overnight stops were good anchorages, some in beautifully clear waters with some gorgeous coral and beautiful fish. The snorkelling was
excellent in Ensa Cata — we’ll go there again if passing
that way.
We still plan to cruise the outer Venezuelan islands;
maybe we’ll visit them heading westwards and then
return to Puerto La Cruz, coast hopping again.
Now, back in Puerto La Cruz, we have traveled more
than 3,500 miles since our departure from here last
November. We had some great times in amazing places. Did I mention the fishing? We had some good
dorado, lots of barracuda, wahoo and a great marlin!
And we had good company on this trip, making it even
more enjoyable.
That’s what we’re here for.
You can read more about Phil and Yvonne’s travels on
Chaser II at blog.mailasail.com/chaser2.
DOCK, BAR
&
RESTAURANT
Open 7/7 VHF: 16/68
•
•
•
•
deep water stern-to berth
water/ice/laundry
tel+fax+internet
gas station
CUSTOMS CLEARANCE
Le Marin
THE
SPECIALIST
FOR
BOAT
MAINTENANCE
IN MARTINIQUE
Zinc Anodes
Plumbing
Marine Paints
Batteries
Epoxy
Antifouling
Tel: (+) 596 596 66 05 45
gas station: (+) 596 596 66 17 30
e-mail: [email protected]
14˚33N - 61˚03W
POINTE DU BOUT, MARTINIQUE
Centre de Carenage 97290 Le Marin
Tel: +596 (0) 596 74 74 80 Fax: +596 (0) 596 74 79 16 [email protected]
T
he island of St. Thomas in the US Virgin Islands has a large mangrove lagoon
at its southeast end. No motorized boats are allowed in the lagoon except
during a hurricane, because it is a wildlife and marine sanctuary. We found
this out while exploring in our dinghy
one day and being turned back at the
entrance to the lagoon.
Most of the area is very shallow and
we wanted to look it over to see if we
could get our boat in there in case of a
storm. So how could we check it out?
Maybe by kayak. We have an inflatable
kayak, but it looked like it might be difficult to find a place where we could go
ashore to inflate and launch it. Then we
learned of a venture called Virgin Islands
Ecotours (www.viecotours.com). They
run kayak, snorkeling and hiking tours
in the mangroves from a small establishment near the entrance to the lagoon
by Jacquie
— a perfect solution.
We made a reservation for a tour,
docked our dinghy at the Yacht Haven
Grande dinghy dock, and caught a safari
bus to the Mangrove Lagoon Eco Center.
Our friendly tour guide, Frank Galdo,
was extremely knowledgeable about the
mangroves and life forms therein. As he
explained, the lagoon contains the red
mangrove (Rhizophora mangle), so called because the roots are red, especially when
wet. The trees grow pods that are self-propagating — when one drops off the tree,
the top has tiny leaves ready to unfold and the bottom has a root ready to grab a
toehold as soon as it touches bottom. The pod can float until this happens and, in
this manner, the red mangrove has spread from Africa to many tropical waters of
the Earth.
We beached the kayaks on a little spit of sand on one of the mangrove islands,
Cas Cay, donned masks and fins and took a snorkel tour. The bottom was sandy
rather than muddy as is so often the case in mangroves, so visibility was good. We
saw lots of fish, especially around the
remains of an old wreck. The most
numerous were snappers and parrotfish, as well as angelfish and damselfish. Most were small, but we saw one
angelfish as big as a platter. Frank
pointed out a spiny lobster and also an
octopus. The octopus was so well camouflaged that I couldn’t see him even
when Frank pointed to him. I spotted
some movement on one rock as I swam
past, like something retracting into the
rock to avoid detection. Exactly the
color of the rock, but with an eye giving
himself away, he opened his jaw to
reveal a double line of jagged teeth — it
Milman
was an eel.
Overhead we saw a frigate bird soaring, watching for a seagull to catch a
fish that he could steal. Frigate birds
have no oil on their skin or feathers to
protect them in the water; they will
drown. So they dive at another bird
with a catch, hoping he will drop it.
Then the frigate bird will try to snatch it
before it falls into the water; if it does make it to the water, he tries to quickly scoop
it up without getting wet.
Back at the beach, Frank passed around mini-Snickers bars and water. He walked
us a short distance along a path in the mangroves and pointed out a tree the locals
call The Poor Man’s Lover because the leaves are shaped like hearts. The tree bears
a beautiful yellow blossom with a deep red center which lasts only a short time, then
is replaced by a small, black pod filled with seeds that falls to the ground to
germinate and sprout another tree. At the shoreline was another plant called
lady’s slipper, one small leaf of which provides enough Vitamin C for about
90 percent of a person’s required daily amount. Sailors once used it to prevent scurvy.
Then we retraced our steps to the kayaks, pulled them back into the water,
boarded and started back to base. Frank gave us leave to head back without
any stops or lectures and encouraged bumper kayaks, splashing, and general good fun. It was an interesting and enjoyable excursion. We had a good
time and learned a lot to boot.
And, yes, we can get our boat into the mangroves in the event of a hurricane.
KAYAKING IN THE
MANGROVES
CARIBBEAN COMPASS
CRUISING GUIDE PUBLICATIONS
PAGE 21
As the mangrove puts down roots, sediment and debris are captured until eventually land is formed. Tiny fish hatchlings and other aquatic creatures find protection
among the roots. We saw silversides and a tiny inch-and-half-long barracuda. Birds
take refuge in the higher branches, safe from land predators. The filtering system of
the roots also prevents the soil run-off and wastes from reaching the coral reef.
We saw seagrass and various other plants, and some starfish. One plant that grows
on the bottom forms round, green balls on the end of a short stalk. These are called
(non-scientifically) sailor’s eye. A most interesting creature that inhabits the lagoon
is the upside-down jellyfish (Cassiopea xamachana). It has very short tentacles that
attach to the bottom to anchor it. Then it grows algae that other creatures feed on.
SEPTEMBER 2008
MILMAN
Main photo: A kayak tour is a wonder-filled way to explore the mangroves
According to Nancy & Simon Scott’s Cruising Guide to the Virgin
Islands, yachts drawing up to six feet have access to the Lagoon,
the best hurricane shelter on St. Thomas
DESTINATIONS
SEPTEMBER 2008
CARIBBEAN COMPASS
PAGE 22
CUBA, THE SECOND TIME AROUND
Above: A rural billboard heralds the 50th anniversary of the Cuban Revolution: unity, firmness, victory
by Bernie Katchor
Below: Our floating home, anchored near the lighthouse at Cayo Jutias
OUR
first cruise in Cuba was along the
south coast in May and June
-2007 (see “Cuba: Fair Winds and
Friendly Faces”, Compass, September 2007). While
there, we Australians were issued with USA visas at
the "enormous" USA embassy in Havana. Then we
sailed our 1978-vintage Endeavour 43 ketch, Australia
31, up to Maine for the summer.
After hurricane season, Cuba and her wonderful
people enticed my wife Yvonne and me to return. We
had an enjoyable sail back to Cuba’s north coast,
where we stopped in one of the many well-sheltered
anchorages about 60 miles from Havana. There, out of
sight of the Guardia Frontera, we enjoyed ourselves for
a week before entering Cuba officially. Cuba only
allows visiting yachts two months before they have to
exit, but we had friends from Australia arriving to join
us in over two months time — hence our hiding. We
have since learned that a boat only has to exit for 24
hours to obtain another two months’ stay.
FRED MARINE
Guadeloupe F.W.I.
MARINE MECHANICS (ALL MAKES) - HAUL OUT
24h BREAKDOWN SERVICE • SALES • REPAIRS • MAINTENANCE
Marina Pointe-à-Pitre 97110
Phone: +590 590 907 137
Fax: +590 590 908 651
E-mail: [email protected]
SERVICES
Mechanics and Electricity
Boat Maintenance
Engine diagnosis
Breakdown service 24/7
Haulout and hull sand blasting
Equipment for rent
Technical shop
GOODS
Genuine parts Yanmar & Tohatsu
Basic spare parts (filters, impellers, belts)
Filtration FLEETGUARD
Anodes,Shaft bearings
Electric parts, batteries
Primers and Antifouling International
Various lubricants
TOHATSU
FOR RENT
High pressure cleaners 150/250bars
Electrical tools
Diverse hand tools
Vacuum cleaner for water
Scaffolding
LEAVE YOUR BOAT IN SKILLED HANDS
The first day at anchor, the crew of one of the local
lobster boats threw six grand lobsters on our deck and
then anchored nearby. Every lobster in Cuba belongs
to the government, as do the lobster boats. These carry
approximately ten marineros, many of whom dive for
the lobster, which is exported or used in the island’s
vast tourist-resort business.
Cubans are not supposed to board foreign vessels,
but we encouraged some of the fishermen to come over
in their dinghy. They spend a month on these dilapidated 30- to 50-foot ferrocement boats. The reinforcing, which expands as it rusts, causes the concrete to
pop off the hulls.
Above: We met this horse-cart driver in La Esperanza
PAGE 23
in 1959 are allowed to fish, providing the owner pays
certain taxes. So a 17-footer with a single-cylinder
Chinese diesel would often come pop-popping by and
offer us fish — and the captain almost became belligerent when Yvonne offered him a gift in return.
Thus, although we did not fish during the week before
we cleared in, our freezer steadily filled. We sailed the 60
miles to Marina Hemingway, which is about 15 miles to
the west of Havana. Small foreign craft are not allowed
into Havana harbour itself unless a strong northerly
makes the entrance to Hemingway untenable.
Calling the marina on VHF channel 72, we were
directed to the “checking in wharf”. Many yachties
become frustrated with Cuba’s check-in processes, but
we find it enjoyable to meet all the delightful people
CARIBBEAN COMPASS
From the thrift stores in the US and from friends, we
had collected a forward cabin full of clothing, as well
as 1946 Chevy parts and other goods sent by Miami
Cubans for their families. We handed out little dresses
and shorts for the fishermen’s children, gifts totally
beyond their ability to buy on the equivalent of US$15
a month they earn.
A second group of fishermen came over with a slab
of spotted eagle ray and some turtle meat. We were
aghast that such beautiful sea creatures were killed,
but the Cubans pointed out they could not eat lobster
every day for a month. We soon discovered that the ray
has a heavy-textured, non-fishy flavour, while turtle
tastes of wild chicken.
Privately owned boats owned before the Revolution
who step aboard after removing their boots (tell that to
the USA coastguard). First came an elderly doctor who
sat with us drinking tea after asking questions about
our health and completing the paperwork in triplicate
after we loaned (then gave) him a pen. The rest of the
officials waited patiently on the wharf. The vet was
next. He asked about rats and any vermin, then invited
us to his house. The three Customs officers followed
and, after they asked permission for it to do so, a sniffing dog then spent 20 minutes gallivanting about our
boat. One of the officers, who made me follow him
every minute as he “searched” our boat, even pulled
out some drawers and looked inside. The port master
followed. Then port officials, after giving us a receipt,
held our flares, which were returned as we checked out
of the Marina. The total cost of entry, including the
second month’s Immigration extension, was US$125.
We had all sorts of goods for Cubans living in
Havana and, in one case, enjoyed the sight of a whole
family admiring new parts for their immobilised 1946
Chevrolet. We stayed a week to accept everyone’s hospitality and see the wonders of the old city. It saddened
me that our new Cuban friends were not allowed
closer than 100 yards to our boat so we could not
return their generous hospitality.
However, they love their country and their families
are very close. Although they all complained about
their predicament of low salaries and rigid government
controls (the same as you and I complain about our
governments), I asked many people whether, if they
could escape as a family tomorrow, they would leave.
SEPTEMBER 2008
Left: A habanera watches from her balcony as Cuba
slowly changes
same journey. My friend got out with me and told me
never to talk again in a Cuban taxi. The next taxi took
us the seven miles at five pesos a person.
The prices at resorts, hotels and tourist-oriented
restaurants are generally the same as in the USA.
Most tourists, including hundreds from the USA, are
When it came time to leave Havana and Hemingway
Marina, we took Australia 31 back to the check-in
wharf. We checked out for the most western port of
entry and intermediate ports. Boats have to check in
and out of every port, so although we knew we would
not get as far as Maria La Gorda we put this as our
destination and on our list named every bay in
between so we could visit them if we so desired. Again,
Customs searched our boat and the officers were most
upset when I asked if they were looking for Cubans
when a drawer was pulled out. A long explanation in
rapid Spanish that I did not understand made me realize irreverent Australian humour was uncalled for.
We headed for Cayo Paraiso and wound our way in
to anchor when Guardia Frontera aboard a fast cigarette boat came along and told us it was a forbidden
anchorage. They said we must move about ten miles.
Apparently two dinghies had been stolen from visiting
yachts anchored there and ended up in Florida.
SEPTEMBER 2008
CARIBBEAN COMPASS
PAGE 24
Only one family of the dozen I asked this question
said yes. The others hope things will change. We were
told of one recent change: Raul Castro, Fidel’s brother,
now allows Cubans to stay at the resort hotels. “At a
hundred and twenty dollars a night, this means if I
work for seven months I will earn enough to stay one
night,” one Cuban said, laughing.
Cuba has one currency for the Cubans (pesos), and
another currency for tourists and all luxury items: the
CUC or Cuban convertible. Twenty-four Cuban pesos
equal one CUC. Sadly, “luxury items” include toothpaste, soap and many items of clothing. A Cuban
earning 300 Cuban pesos a month has to eat before
converting any of his pesos to CUC to buy clothes or
toiletries. Thus, these items are virtually unobtainable
to the locals unless they go outside the system illegally to make money, as most do.
To our delight, as we bought local pesos, an eightinch pizza cooked in a converted 55-gallon drum on a
street corner cost the equivalent of 20 cents. An ice
cream, also made on a street corner with a little gas
engine driving the compressor, cost one cent.
There are even Cuban-only taxis, in which a ride
costs five local pesos. When one of our friends hailed
a Cuban-only shared taxi, the driver heard I was foreign and put me out, telling me he could be jailed for
carrying me. He informed me that I should take a tourist taxi, which costs 10 CUC (48 times the cost) for the
Above: Who needs DJs? As in most of Cuba,
wreal live musicians play everywhere in Camaguey
Right: Yvonne posts a letter in Old Havana
sequestered in all-inclusive resorts, never meeting any
Cubans except the staff. Again this was good for us, as
when we stopped by a resort’s bar for a beer, no barman would accept our money, saying it was included.
In the USA, a dentist quoted me US$4,500 for a new
bridge. In the excellent Cuban government dental
clinic, the first dentist who saw me said repair was
impossible. But then a delightful elderly professor
(watched by five students) fixed my broken teeth with
posts and cemented the bridge back in. It took two
hours and cost US$25.
We explored the village of La Esperanza where we met
Sandra, a delightful, buxom female. (Cubans often complain about the lack of food, but we did not see skinny
ones.) She cooked us an evening meal on three occasions
and we gave her clothing and eyeglasses in return.
Cuba has unlimited sheltered anchorages. Walking
the beaches and enjoying our favourite pastime, bird
watching, were rewarding as was exploring far up
mangrove creeks in the dinghy.
Soon it was time to sail to Varadero to collect our first
guests. Sailing overnight to Varadero we found that the
coastline east of Havana was wall-to-wall towns.
Le Phare Bleu Marina
Marina & Yachtclub
Restaurants
- 60 slips for boats up to 120 feet
and 15 draft
- Customs & Immigration
- 230/110V (50/60Hz), Water,
Webcam, Wi-Fi
- Showers, Lounge, Pool, Restaurants, Bar
- Fuel & Gasoline
- Minimarket, Car Rental, Laundry
- Hurricane Moorings
- ﬁne dining on a unique, historical
lighthouse ship
- breakfast, lunch and dinner served all
day at the Pool-Bar Restaurant
VHF CH 16
phone 473 444 2400
[email protected]
www.lepharebleu.com
Petite Calivigny Bay, St. George‘s, Grenada W.I., POS 12°00‘11N / 61°43‘29W
the legal allowing of private farms.
Every shop is owned by the government — full stop.
In one shop, we saw a woman with a sewing machine,
along with a bookkeeper to take the money for her
work. Such are the inefficiencies of communism. Both
get a salary of about US$15 a month. Medical care is
free and of a good standard, however. Each month
Above: The Cuban fishermen we encountered were friendly and generous
Below: At La Esperanza, privately owned fishing boats are kept closed inside this ‘cage’ at night
See more of the adventures of Bernie and Yvonne on
Australia 31 at www.berniekatchor.com.
Johnson Hardware Ltd.
FOR YOUR MARINE HARDWARE, AND MORE
Chain & Rope
Anchors & Fenders
Electric Wire
Marine Hoses
Bilge Pumps
Lubricants & Oils
Stainless Fasteners
Stainless Fittings
VHF Radios
Flares & Life Jackets
Snorkeling Equipment
Fishing Gear
Antifouling Paint
Paint Brushes
Epoxy Resins
Sanding Paper & Discs
Hand & Power Tools
Houseware & Cookware
Rodney Bay, St. Lucia Tel: (758) 452 0299 Fax: (758) 452 0311 e-mail: [email protected]
PAGE 25
side, we saw and bought from many private vegetable
farms. In the towns, one has to buy what is available.
On one day the market will have potatoes and beans,
the next a great variety of fruits and veggies. It depends
who comes to sell. Food is more readily available since
some food is subsidized, but not enough to last a person the whole month. For example, five eggs are
allowed per person each month, but any extra are
purchased at about five times the subsidized price.
Because we had to base at Varadero to meet our
arriving groups of friends, we did not get far along
the north coast. Our highlight was a week traveling
by car, intensely bird watching with two friends who
are professional ornithologists and a Cuban ornithologist who is the author of a book on the birds of
Cuba. We saw 101 of Cuba’s 300 birds, including
many of the endemics.
Cuba is a true delight with friendly people. It is the
safest country we have ever been in. As we sailed north
again to avoid the 2008 hurricane season, we both
agreed to return for a third visit in November. We plan
to sail farther east along the northern coast — slowly,
very slowly, enjoying the hundreds of islands.
CARIBBEAN COMPASS
dling a vessel very common in Cuba. Two large inner
tubes were cut and had the ends sewn to keep the air
in. A wooden frame with two sets of rowlocks was tied
to the long inflated tubes. We often saw these craft
miles out at sea. These lads brought us an enormous
variety of vegetables from their garden.
Recently Cuban people have been allowed to grow
vegetables to sell at the new markets, independent of
the usual government-controlled system. Up until
now, Cubans had little incentive to grow food at the
pittance paid by the government, thus most of the
fertile land was left lying unproductive. In the country-
SEPTEMBER 2008
As we sailed only four miles offshore, the path was easy
to follow. We decided to check in at Gaviota Marina as
it is 12 miles northeast and to windward of the marina
at Varadero. Formalities here were repeated: Customs,
port authorities and Immigration.
Our American guests all flew in (via Mexico, as Mr.
Bush needs the Miami Cuban votes) and more formalities occurred as they were searched by Customs
and added to the crew list by Immigration. It is easy to
have US guests aboard in Cuba: passports are never
stamped — you are just issued a visa on a separate
document. Passengers’ names are removed from the
crew list and their luggage searched as they leave. As
we had six such comings and goings, we made good
friends of the delightful authorities. Paperwork is
Cuba. It takes three receipts to buy diesel, but at far
less than USA prices it is worth the effort.
Each time we sailed with our guests eastward from
Gaviota Marina in sheltered waters. Yvonne and I
really enjoyed showing them how we have spent and
enjoyed the last 15 years cruising. Highlights were
actually having Cuban fishermen aboard to a rum
party. We had stocked up with ten litres of local rum.
The bar we bought from had a great barrel of it and
every night after work Cubans of all shapes, sexes and
ages cycled or walked up with a container and rum
was measured into it in 100ml lots for about ten cents.
As we bought sixty 100ml lots — six litres for US$8
— there was a long laughing line of locals waiting.
Cubans have to wait days for buses, hours for bread
or rice, and never seem to complain.
Lobster and fish were showered upon us although
they were easy to catch. One guest hauled in a fish
over ten pounds every ten minutes as we sailed. Any
large fish along Cuba’s north coast can have ciguatera,
whereas the south coast does not have this problem,
Any fish we caught weighing over four pounds were
returned to the ocean.
The Guardia Frontera officials were rowed out to us
on commandeered fishing boats and checked our
papers as we progressed eastward. The north coast, as
compared to the south of Cuba, where we cruised last
year, seemed to have more officials and we were not
allowed to visit many towns on the mainland. To
explore some towns, we used the excuse that we
needed food, but at one town this excuse was rejected.
Disappointed, we went the five miles back to Australia
31. Four hours later, three young men arrived, pad-
SEPTEMBER 2008
CARIBBEAN COMPASS
PAGE 26
DESTINATIONS
My wife Yvonne and I aboard Chaser II and our
friends Chris and Tony on Waylander toured Cuba for
a few weeks recently. Arriving from Jamaica, we
cleared in at the south coast port of Cienfuegos (see
our story in last month’s Compass).
A lot has been written about Cuba during the past
months, but we all have different experiences and
interpret foreign cultures differently. So this is my
summary of our visit, which I hope will be of interest
to those planning to visit Cuba.
Cienfuegos
Cienfuegos is the town where we based ourselves. It
is central to the areas we wanted to visit by car and a
safe place to leave the boat. The marina staff was helpful, and there is a small shop for basic supplies, as
well as a bar. Taxis can be called from the main road
nearby. Within a short walk there are several bars and
restaurants, ranging from the elegant to the roadside
fast-food-type diner. The old Club Náutico (yacht club)
and the amazingly ornate Palacio de Valle are within
walking distance from the marina. Both of these
remarkable buildings are open to the public to either
walk round or dine. The prices for such decadence are
quite average — as is the food.
Ask around and you find out the best paladares
(private homes where meals can be bought). In town
there is a fruit and vegetable market, which also sells
fresh meat. It has a small bar inside that sells juice
and gorgeous chorizo (sausage) rolls for a few cents.
You pay in National Pesos here, so prices are good.
Nearby there are bakeries and supermarkets. Note
that some bakers aren’t allowed to sell to non-Cubans,
i.e. those without a ration book.
We found you can buy most supplies here if you look
around. Our outdated guidebooks suggested that toilet
rolls, soap, cooking oil and some other items would be
impossible to find, so we stocked up, but all the shops
were overflowing with the stuff. Che Guevara hats,
T-shirts mugs, books, paintings, photos, you name it,
are everywhere.
The Countryside
Cuba is a large country. The size of England, it has
mountains, plains and some lovely villages. There are
many rivers, caves and green fields growing tobacco,
sugar and potatoes. It’s all enhanced by the turn-of-the20th-century style of transport ranging from oxcarts to
tipper lorries used as buses. It was great to be able to
travel by car or on foot safely: the roads were often
empty, there was no rush, no hassle and no traffic jams.
The few people we saw on the roadside all waved.
Havana
A special mention has to be made of Havana. We
stayed in Old Havana, the historical area, again in a
casa particular (private homes where rooms can be
rented). Our apartment was in what looked like an old
tenement building with a side door to the dirty staircase. Kids were playing baseball in the street, using a
piece of wood for a bat and a bottle top as a ball: what
skill they had with it, too! Despite the scruffy surroundings, we could walk the busy streets at night
safely. It was great to be able to walk down the street
listening for which bar had the best live music, and
then pop in to enjoy a daiquiri and some first-rate
salsa, meringue or son music.
We found a great Chinese restaurant in a grubby
back street in Havana. A waiter standing outside beckoned us in and up a gloomy staircase. It looked decidedly dodgy, but we decided to take a look. Upstairs it
was beautiful and the place was buzzing with local
people. We had one of the best meals in Cuba there,
not authentically Chinese (in fact, a bit more Cuban)
but excellent quality, price and atmosphere.
Old Havana’s buildings, cars, markets, harbour and
fort are all worth special visits. Hotels such as the
Inglaterra, with a piano player in the corner, are great
places to pop in for a cocktail. El Bodeguita del Medio,
one of Ernest Hemingway’s favorite bars is worth a
visit, if only for a beer. Tony loved the menu here!
The people were lovely; we never had any problems
whatsoever. There is little crime. Wherever we were,
habaneros wanted to chat, unlike on many other
Caribbean islands where people are more reserved.
One or two would ask for a dollar after having greeted
and welcomed us, but that happened in all the larger
towns. All our hosts at the casas particulares were
exceptionally friendly and willing to talk about their life
and problems living within Cuba, and what their hopes
are for the future. Most if not all we spoke to thought
change was on the way, I think believing that with a
change of US government and a new leader within
Cuba, negotiations for lifting the blockade could take
place, still leaving the country independent.
Cuba, as We Found It
Part Two:
City Visits
by Phil Chapman
We love Havana… Club! Here we are with a new acquaintance at the Rum Museum. The people of Havana
are lovely, too — we never had any problems whatsoever
Poverty, Health and Education
Cubans have little cash: 10 to 20 CUCs per month
doesn’t go far, even with the government subsidies of
electricity, water, rent and basic foodstuffs. However,
even if you have money there is little to buy, so lack of
to Raul Castro, even the prostitutes have degrees,
though he didn’t say what in.
US Visas
One surprise that is interesting to many European
cruisers is the possibility of obtaining a United States
visa in Havana. Europeans can fly into US territory on
booth where the young American girl behind the counter made polite conversation with us while typing on
the computer. She asked where we were going next
and why we wanted a visa, we told her we live on a boat
and will be cruising the Caribbean during the next few
years and would like to visit some US islands. That
was our interview; she said that’s fine, your ten-year
visa will be ready for you to collect tomorrow, have a
nice day. Which we did, a proper US visa, amusingly
(we thought) stamped ‘Issued in Havana’. It does expire
on April 1st, but I think that’s just a coincidence! So
another good reason to go to Havana.
Trinidad
This is a very charming and ancient but very touristy
town. There are many casas particulares, so many in fact
that they have now closed the list for new applicants for
this work. Our hosts here told us that they cannot close
their house now for a rest or for restoration because their
licence to operate would be given to somebody else.
Our house in Trinidad was particularly beautiful,
though in desperate need of some TLC. It dated back,
we were told, about 300 years and had been in the
same family for the past 150 years. The elderly owner
showed us some photos of her grandparents who were
certainly well-to-do people of the day, being a lawyer
and official photographer. This lovely old lady has seen
many changes in her lifetime, having been reasonably
well off at one time. The consequences of the US blockade moved them down into a struggling family.
Barefoot Yacht Charters & Marine Centre
BAREBOAT CHARTERS - FULLY CREWED CHARTERS - ASA SAILING SCHOOL
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
Doyle Sail Loft & Canvas Shop
Mechanical & Electrical Repairs
Vehicle Rentals
Ice & Water
Island Tours
Quiksilver Surf wear
On-site Accommodation
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
Raymarine Electronics
Fibreglass Repairs
Showers
Diesel & Propane
Surftech Surf Shop
Restaurant & Bar
Wi-Fi / Internet Café
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
Refrigeration Work
Laundry
Air Travel
Moorings
Hotel Reservations
Boutique
Book Exchange
PO Box 39, Blue Lagoon, St Vincent, West Indies
Tel. 1-784-456-9526 / 9334 / 9144 Fax. 1-784-456-9238
[email protected]
www.barefootyachts.com
PAGE 27
1984
Since
our “visa waiver” type passports, but we can’t go in by
boat using the same passport without a visa. If we do,
(I was told by the US Immigration), even in a medical
or weather emergency, we would be fined a minimum
of US$500 per person if we announced our arrival and
a minimum of US$5,000 if we didn’t.
We heard through an internet source that we could
obtain a US visa in Havana at the US embassy that
doesn’t officially exist, but hides inside a Swiss embassy that doesn’t seem to exist either. We found the
building behind about a hundred Cuban flags in the
centre of Havana. There was a security guard every 20
metres around the perimeter.
We asked one guard where we could obtain a US
visa, he made a phone call to his office, and they gave
us a fax number where we should send all our information. We did this that same morning, then telephoned to see if they received it. They had, and gave
us an appointment for the following day at 9:00AM.
The security staff were aware of our appointment and
directed us to the entrance. We had the usual searches
and shown through the waiting room for our interview.
We were called to a booth to pay US$130 (non-refundable) then told to wait. We were then called to another
CARIBBEAN COMPASS
money isn’t the controlling aspect of poverty.
In many ways I found these people quite rich. In some
parts, they lived in beautiful countryside in pretty
coloured houses with well-tended gardens. Our host in
one of the guesthouses had chickens and pigs in the
garden; he grew his own pineapples, mangoes, grapefruits, coconuts and vegetables. He even grew, dried and
roasted his own coffee beans — absolutely beautiful.
Most people were smartly dressed, although some
would argue that they go without food to have nice
clothes. Also, as in many Communist countries where
everyone is “equal”, some are “more equal” than others. Many frequently ate in the same restaurants that
we did, which was great, but people who can pay 10
CUCs for a single meal are obviously not earning the
standard 15 CUCs a month.
There were hospitals and clinics everywhere, and all
free. They looked like my recollection of an English
doctor’s surgery or worse, ie. scruffy, but they are
available. The stock of drugs and medicine is limited
because of the blockade.
All the children go to school in their uniforms, very
proud, smart and clean. Many young Cubans speak at
least one other language, usually English. According
SEPTEMBER 2008
Inside the Museum of the
Revolution in Old Havana. This
was the Presidential Palace
from 1920 until 1959, and
Tiffany & Company of New
York was responsible for much
of the Palace’s décor. In contrast, exhibits in some other
rooms now feature bloodstained and bullet-ridden
uniforms from
revolutionary battles
SEPTEMBER 2008
CARIBBEAN COMPASS
PAGE 28
This, they told us, changed enormously when the
Russians moved in and they were again able to buy
the things they needed to have a little comfort.
However, she said, this didn’t last and when the Soviet
Union broke up they were back to an even more desperate way of life. The owner’s daughters and granddaughters now help in running the establishment.
I suppose as so-called capitalists we grow up with a
different viewpoint. We see an opportunity and we
invest or work hard in order to make a buck. But even
Above: The lush Cuban countryside around Piñar del Rio
Left: At last — it’s lobster time!
Below: A typical scene. In Cuba, transportation includes the iconic old American cars —
and just about anything else on wheels
if they had the money to do so, Cuban people are not
permitted to invest in any moneymaking scheme,
which breeds lethargy and lack of interest in work.
This though is only my naïve opinion and observations
obtained during the past weeks visiting and talking to
the Cuban people we met.
Heading Back East
We cleared out of Cienfuegos and made our way
back east. One of our anchorages, Cayo Breton (the
“lobster capital”, our guide book said) has a large fishermen’s storage facility, but it is now closed.
We only met one fishing boat. We dinghied over to
have a chat with the crew and ask if they had a lobster
or two to trade. They did, but said we mustn’t tell anyone because the lobsters all belong to Fidel, so we
won’t mention it. We had a long chat with these guys
— such a good crowd. They were in need of a few
T-shirts and asked if we had any caps. We told them
we had some soap and cooking oil, but they said no
thanks, they had plenty of that. (So had we.) They
loved our rum, though, judging by the partying going
on aboard their boat all evening. One of them fell off
their boat, twice!
Our freezers and tummies full, we settled down for
the night to be rested for an early departure.
Cuba is a lovely country. We saw some beautiful
sights and had some memorable times. But would we
go back again? Personally, the answer would probably
be no. I don’t know why, but it just doesn’t grab me
like Venezuela, Trinidad or Jamaica for example.
CROSSWORD SOLUTION
ACROSS
2) SLOW
4) MANS
5) DEAD
7) DOWN
8) LIFT
11) FLAT
12) HEADED
14) EYE
15) DOORS
18) SHEAVE
19) CHEST
21) WOOD KNEES
23) WATER
25) RISING
26) CALM
27) PAY
29) DEADEN
30) SET
32) WEIGHT
DOWN
1) END
3) WOOD
4) MONTHS
6) EFFECTS
9) FREIGHT
10) MENS
13) ANGLE
16) RECKONING
17) DEADLY
20) HEAD
21) WORKS
22) SHARES
24) ROPES
28) MEN
31) TO
by Arlene Walrond
Adventures in
Venezuelan
Transport
CARIBBEAN COMPASS
IT’S MUCH MORE
THAN A MARINA: IT’S HOME!
There ferry from Venezuela uses this tour-boat
facility in Chaguaramas…
SEPTEMBER 2008
To me, travelling in Venezuela is an adventure. Be it
a por puesto ride to the market or a bus trip to a scenic
site, there are tales to tell.
The things I have observed over the years just waiting
for the lancha to take me across the canal next to the
Aqua Vi marina’s hotel in Puerto La Cruz would amaze
or maybe amuse you. The actual trip takes a minute or
less, depending on the cargo. Apart from humans, that
can include bicycles, sno-cone or hot-dog carts, and
sometimes even animals. Rush hours or Sunday afternoons when people are returning from the beach provide the most interesting and entertaining moments.
One thing I can say about the women in Venezuela is
that they are not embarrassed about showing off their
bodies, no matter what shape they’re in. Some of them
walk from the beach (which is about a mile from the
canal) in their bathing suits, leaving little to the imagination. Whether the exposed flesh is enhanced by silicone or marred by cellulitis, it attracts the eye.
Long-distance travel beats all, though. Six years ago,
my first bus ride from Puerto La Cruz eastward to the
port town of Guiria to catch the ferry to Trinidad was
an experience in itself. It was my first time on a longdistance bus and I had no idea what it would be like.
The first clue that it would be different was that passengers were boarding with pillows and blankets. I
didn’t know then that we were looking at a seven- to
eight-hour trip in an ice box on wheels. Most of the
Venezuelan buses that I’ve travelled on were made in
Brazil, so I’m not sure who should be given credit for
the great air-conditioning systems in them. Needless
to say I was unprepared for the coldness. Not long
after take-off my hands and feet became numb and
lifeless — but there is a God.
The bus left the terminal at 12:30AM and about three
hours later it broke down. What a relief! It’s the only
time I have ever been happy for something like that to
happen. It didn’t matter that we were stranded in the
middle of nowhere, not a building in sight. All passengers were asked to disembark as the driver and his
companion tried to ascertain what the problem was.
After their inspection the driver made a call, after which
the passengers were told to retrieve their luggage.
Standing on the side of a narrow shoulderless highway in the dark can be scary, but at least I was no
longer frozen. The bus driver announced that another
bus would be along shortly.
PAGE 29
Over and over again our guests refer to our marina as their “Home”!
Join us this summer and continue to enjoy the hospitality.
WE OFFER:
• 24 hour security
• 120 concrete slip berths
• Electricity: 220V/ 50amp; 110V/300amps
(single phase and three phase)
• 16ft channel
• Fuel dock and bunkering
• Free satellite TV at each slip
• Telephone hook-up
• Shower facilities
• Wireless internet, banks and laundry within the complex
• Pick-up and drop-off from major supermarkets
We monitor VHF channels 16 & 79A (alpha – American system)
P.O. Box 4540, Airport Road, Sint Maarten, N.A., Caribbean
Tel: 599-5442309 Fax: 599-5443378
Visit our website: www.sbmarina.biz E-mail: [email protected]
Half an hour passed, and nothing. By then some
passengers began flagging down passing vehicles. An
hour later only a few of us remained, including a guy
in a military uniform whose presence dispelled any
fears I might have felt being in a strange place at
SEPTEMBER 2008
CARIBBEAN COMPASS
PAGE 30
…where one passenger just couldn’t resist a dip in the
pool and a shower!
that ungodly hour. (Over the years, I’ve discovered
that my confidence in that uniform was greatly misplaced. I can recount incidents here to substantiate
that statement but it might not be in my best interest to do so.)
Anyway, another bus finally came along and we continued on our way, arriving at Guiria in mid-morning.
The first thing I did was to freshen up in the bathroom
at the bus station, which wasn’t very clean with water
barely trickling from the tap. The next time I made the
trip I used a different bus company whose facilities are
a lot better. The only problem there was that I had to
walk past a raging doberman on a long leash to get to
the bathroom!
My first visit to Guiria was like going back in time. It
reminded me of a typical rural town in Trinidad back in
the Sixties when I was growing up. The population was
small and the people were friendly and helpful. The pace
was slow and laid back and I got the
impression that crime wasn’t an issue. I
remember chatting with an old Syrian
man who told me he had relatives in
Trinidad. He was sitting half asleep outside his store, the door wide open when we
approached. There wasn’t much to steal
back then anyway: the few stores that
existed were sparsely stocked. I walked
through the only appliance store which
boasted a single item of each type, e.g. one
stove, one fridge, etcetera. There was no
washing machine. Six years later, this
same store is so overflowing with goods
there’s hardly room to walk about, and
there are other appliance stores as well.
Guiria today is a bustling town. A lot of
development has taken place over the
last two years. There’s also been a massive influx of people, but progress isn’t
always a good thing. I liked the old Guiria
better. Native Guirians that I’ve come in
contact with over the years now tell me,
“Be careful, hold on to your purse.”
On two occasions subsequent to my
first trip, the journey was interrupted a
couple of hours’ distance from Guiria by
protesting villagers who blocked the road to call attention to some plight or the other, forcing passengers to
walk long distances with heavy bags to find alternative
transport. So, to avoid a harrowing bus trip, I travelled
by plane a few times. It cost a lot more, but the time
factor in getting from one destination to the next was
an incentive — until I came to the realization that
planes have a habit of falling out of the sky in
Venezuela. It’s not my intention to trivialize the matter, but since 2004 I’ve been taking notice and hardly
a month goes by without an accident involving a plane
or helicopter resulting in the loss of lives. So far for
this year (May 2008) nearly a hundred people have
died in plane crashes here, so I’m a bit wary.
The last time I made the trip to Guiria I found another way to beat the stress and inconvenience of that
overnight bus ride. It put a dent in my purse, but
sometimes we have to make sacrifices for peace of
mind. I left Puerto La Cruz early one day by por puesto
route taxi (there’s no bus until after noon) and rode to
the town of Carúpano, which is roughly halfway to
Guiria. I had lunch and a bathroom break there, then
got in another por puesto. There were no incidents
along the way and I arrived in Guiria by late afternoon.
I checked into a hotel and had a very restful night. The
next morning I got my name on the list at the office
that handles the ferry bookings and paid my departure
tax, after which I explored a bit taking in the most
recent changes. I returned to my hotel room and
watched TV until it was time to get ready to leave.
One of the things that have changed for the worse in
Guiria are the facilities, or rather lack thereof, for passengers awaiting the ferry. Six years ago there was a
roofed area (albeit no seats) that provided shelter from
the elements. Some years later, a new berthing area
was assigned to the ferry and for a while chairs were
provided for patrons at the Guardia Nacional compound close by. I don’t know what happened to change
that, but now the only shelter is a large tree, with gas
and oil pipelines for seats. A small tent is provided for
the check-in procedure, but that would be inadequate
if rain should fall.
Now compare that with the posh facilities at Pier 1 in
Chaguaramas on the Trinidad end: clean bathrooms
and proper seats in a beautiful setting. I know that
these facilities were not created especially for the ferry
passengers, but they’re there and are well appreciated.
So much so that last November (2007) while I was taking some photos with this article in mind, I observed
one passenger circling the swimming pool. Then he
took a seat close by and sat staring at the water.
Finally, the water proved irresistible, for next thing I
know he’s swimming in the pool. I couldn’t resist taking a shot of him.
The most unusual travelling experience I’ve had so
far is that one morning in Trinidad I got to Chaguaramas
just as the ferry was about to pull out. Everything was
finalized and I was told there was no way I could get
on board. Since the ferry operates only on Wednesdays
I was in a fix. Noticing my distress, a man gave me a
contact number for someone who liaises with boats
going to Venezuela. When I made the call and heard
that my prospective ride was a fishing boat I had
doubts, but he assured me that another woman would
be on board as well as a male passenger who had
missed the ferry, too. It turned out to be a pleasant
trip with very kind and courteous people.
VIRGIN GORDA YACHT HARBOUR
Full Service Marina Facility
LEAVE YOUR BOAT
IN OUR CARE THIS SUMMER
Our facility located in the heart of beautiful Virgin Gorda comprises
a 111-slip marina and a boatyard with 12 acres of dry storage space
offering insurance approved hurricane pits to secure your vessel
during hurricane season.
Onsite amenities and services include a bank/ATM, a supermarket,
chandlery, restaurant, bakery, clothing store, dive shop, phone and
fax facilities, free wireless internet access, fuel, water and ice,
laundry facilities, and an office of the BVI Tourist Board all in
a pristine and relaxing environment. BVI Customs and immigration
located within convenient walking distance.
Tel: 284 495-5500
Fax: 284 495-5706
284 495-5318
284 495-5685
Web: www.vgmarina.biz
VHF Ch: 16
CARIBBEAN MARITIME HISTORY
Guyanese Solidarity
with Canadian Seamen
by Norman Faria
WALLILABOU
ANCHORAGE
WALLILABOU BAY HOTEL
VHF Ch 16 & 68
(range limited by the hills)...
PORT OF ENTRY
MOORING FACILITIES
Your Expert Guide to Carriacou’s Best Diving
Find us right in the town of Hillsborough!
Phone/Fax (473) 443-7882 and VHF CH 16
[email protected]
www.scubamax.com
WATER, ICE, SHOWERS
CARIBEE BATIK - BOUTIQUE
BAR AND RESTAURANT
TOURS ARRANGED
P.O. Box 851, St. Vincent & the Grenadines,
West Indies.
Tel: (784) 458-7270 Fax: (784) 457-9917
Norman Faria is Guyana’s Honorary Consul in Barbados.
CREDIT CARDS ACCEPTED
HAPPY HOUR 5-6
INS
T
TRARUCT
ININ OR
G
• Daily dives at 9.30 am and 1.30 pm or individually
• Air-Fills at PADI 5 * Standard
• Scuba and Snorkel Gear Rental
• PADI Courses from Beginner to Instructor
& 15 Specialties in English & Deutsch
• Rendezvous Service for Sailors at Hillsborough,
Sandy Island & Tyrrel-Bay
• Special Group Prices for Sailors
PAGE 31
rank-and-file democracy than the “red-led” unions. The CSU, for example, had the
support of the majority of Canadian seamen. These were among the poorest sections
of the Canadian working class (many men went to sea in their early teens during this
period). The Canadian Encyclopedia described the CSU as “effective, well supported”. It had won significant benefits for the workers within an archaic, exploitative
sector with its low wages, long hours and poor working conditions.
Another important reason for the solidarity was that the CSU stood for democratic
traits which the Jagans and others in then-colonial British Guiana were themselves
striving to establish for the Guyanese people: multiracial democracy and unity.
According to the book, Against the Tide: The Story of the Canadian Seamen’s Union
by Jim Green (Progress Publishers, 1986), the CSU was formed in 1936. Waterfront
unions had merged with it. Among its members were Japanese immigrant fishermen
who were based at ports in the Canadian western seaboard province of British
Columbia. It was a time when Asiatic people in Canada were still being discriminated against, though as Canadian democracy deepened, this would change. In
1949, at the time of the CSU strike, the apartheid system in South Africa had been
institutionalized. But the CSU insisted that any ships being manned by its members
would have integrated crews while visiting South Africa.
Looking at photos of crews in Green’s well-researched book, there are clearly CSU
crewmembers with African and Hispanic features. These were probably from the
CARIBBEAN COMPASS
(2) HTTP://IANCOOMBE.TRIPOD.COM/ID19.HTML
The Sunavis. Guyanese people smuggled food to her striking crew by rowboat when
security guards blockaded the waterfront
Caribbean countries, including Cuba, where Canadian shipping lines such as
Saguenay called. It must be remembered that during this period, especially from the
1920s through the 1950s, Canadian-flagged cargo vessels and even cruise liners
(e.g. the “Lady boats”) were plentiful in Caribbean ports. At the time, the Canadian
merchant marine fleet was the fourth largest in the world.
In fairness, the contracts signed by the shipping firms for hauling cargoes and carrying passengers in the circum-Caribbean region and Guyana included the stipulation
that a certain percentage of local crew be hired. This tradition was in existence up
until the mid-1960s, when this writer signed on as a deckhand with other Caribbean
seamen on the German-owned freighter Brunsland, one of the Geest Line ships carrying bananas from Eastern Caribbean islands to England. Many English-speaking
islanders, particularly those from Bequia, worked on these “banana boats”.
In his book The West on Trial, Cheddi Jagan explained that the April 1949 support
action with the Canadian seamen had been organized “as a matter of principle”. He
gave more details: “Our job was to take care of the men — not an easy task; of the
70 men involved, nearly half were ashore and had to be fed and lodged… The major
problem was to feed the men on the ship. This was quite a problem as the shipping
company’s security guards had blockaded the harbour front.”
My view is that the Guyanese support for the CSU went further than this in its
anti-colonial impact and the promotion of the need for multi-racial unity and understanding. The Jagans were leaders of a group called the Political Action Committee
(PAC), made up of and supported by Guyanese of all races. One year later, it evolved
into the People’s Progressive Party, one of the Commonwealth Caribbean’s oldest,
most respected and representative political parties. It would lead the Guyanese into
independence from Britain in 1966.
Though the impetus and desire, the hard-fought campaigns and struggles for independence by Caribbean peoples were rooted in their own everyday experiences and
hardships, there was interaction with and support from sympathetic organizations
and individuals in “white” North America and Europe.
In a 2001 article found on her website, Mrs. Jagan wrote: “I remember the period
well… It was a heady period and the seamen were strong and courageous men, loyal
to their union. We (in the PAC) learned a lot from them.”
According to Green’s book, the colonial authorities issued warrants for the arrest
of the Sunavis crew. But the strikers also got the backing of the British Guiana and
West Indies Federated Seamen’s Union as well as the British Guiana Trades Union
Council (TUC). Green argues that a just-concluded strike by unionized sugar workers at Plantation Enmore also helped the seamen. When the police went out to the
ship and met resistance, the colonial Governor, anxious to avoid more bloodshed,
told the police to let the Canadians be.
When the TUC withdrew its support in May, the seamen became more isolated.
They were put in jail for 16 days after giving themselves up. Legal representation had
been organized by the PAC. After attending a party thrown in their honour by Cheddi
Jagan, they were flown back to Canada.
Due partly to rising Cold War hysteria in the early 1950s, the CSU went under
soon after the strike. The union’s 12,000-member base was undermined by a quasicompany union named the Seafarers International Union, which was affiliated with
the AFL. In a few years the Canadian merchant marine fleet was sold off, leading to
much unemployment. The legacy of the CSU’s seminal work continued, however,
with members and leaders joining other labour bodies and peoples’ organisations.
The seldom-heard-about solidarity action by the fledgling democracy and anticolonial PAC needs to be remembered. The historic show of support by Guyanese
people of all races for Canadian seamen nearly 60 years ago is part of our wider collective memory, not only for Guyana but the entire Caribbean region with its rich
maritime traditions, human endeavors and hopes.
SEPTEMBER 2008
It is April 1949. In colonial British Guiana, on South America’s northeast coast,
the night is thick with darkness as a group of Guyanese climb into a small rowboat
on the east bank of the Demerara River.
They row towards one of the several freighters anchored in midstream off the docks
of the capital, Georgetown. It is the Canadian cargo vessel Sunavis, which had come
to Guyana to load ore for Canadian aluminum-making plants.
In the bottom of the rowboat, carefully wrapped in crocus bags and canvas, is a
quantity of food including freshly baked bread, some ground provisions, salt fish,
chicken, rice and perhaps a bottle or two of good Guyanese rum. It is all destined for
the striking Canadian seamen on board the 10,000-tonne ship.
Among those in the rowboat is a couple, each of whom would later become President
of an independent Guyana. They are Cheddi Jagan and his American-born wife Janet
(née Rosenberg). Every now and again, as Mrs. Jagan related to this writer in an
interview in the 1980s, those on board the small boat would duck down as the shipowner’s security personnel swept searchlight beams across the anchorage.
In a remarkable show of support and political consciousness, the Guyanese people
and their leaders were offering solidarity to the seamen, then part of an international
strike organized by the Canadian Seamen’s Union (CSU). The labour action affected
the whole Canadian-flagged merchant marine fleet, wherever they were moored.
The solidarity action undoubtedly stemmed from two main, but connected, understandings. One was the need to defend democratic peoples’ organizations, regardless
of where they were in the world. Not only were the CSU and like-minded unions
worldwide fighting to deepen the already beneficial achievements for their members.
There was also an ideological struggle. It was the Cold War period at the end of World
War II. Company unions and others were started to undermine “red-led” unions, as
the established media described left-wing trade unions.
It was not that these company unions and other bodies such as groupings within
the American Federation of Labor (AFL) could provide better representation and
SEPTEMBER 2008
CARIBBEAN COMPASS
PAGE 32
All
who go to sea should contemplate safety as a
primary issue.
If you overhear someone saying they “got wrecked”,
you first probably think they overdid it on rum, especially if they are sitting in a bar. Many years ago at
Chief’s Bar in Crown Bay, St. Thomas, I heard a seasoned yachtie spin a story about surviving a shipwreck. The older man caught most of the patrons’
watery-eyed attention, and attracted a bellyful of free
drinks. He told of a freighter plowing into his sloop in
the South Atlantic while crossing from Cape Town to
Rio. His chorus line was: “Got to my grab bag just as
Davy Jones grabbed my ankles”. He hailed the crowd
and waddled off to what looked like a pristine Catalina.
In the following days his yarn transcended to all rot
— free-drink bait — but I never forgot the necessity of
an always-handy grab bag.
In the northern islands, after hurricanes such as
Hugo, Marilyn, Georges and Lenny, I met many deboated storm refugees. In the Grenadines, I’ve met a
few sailors who had more than one boat sink beneath
them. The story “It Ain’t Over…” by Ruth Chesman in
the April and May 1999 issues of Compass told of a
true woman-overboard calamity in the Windwards. I’m
glad I can’t tell a personal sinking or overboard story.
Fear, more than common sense, has kept me and the
Sea Cow afloat. I always have my deck harness
securely hooked on, and my grab bag ready.
No sailor has the intention of becoming a first-hand
authority on surviving a shipwreck, but you must
always be prepared just in case, even when islandhopping or day-sailing in the Caribbean. Disasters
don’t make appointments so, as they said in the
Seventies, “have your shit together”.
Every situation is different with winds, currents, and
location: think about everything before deciding to
leave the site of your shipwreck. And have your survival kit ready.
Organize a grab bag containing survival essentials.
First, make sure you can alert others. Check your
EPIRB. Radios and cell phones (fully charged and/or
with spare batteries) are useful if you believe someone
will be listening, and flares if you think someone’s
watching. The smallest and easiest signaling devices
to carry are a signaling mirror and a whistle. You’ll
want to be able to tell rescuers exactly where you are,
so include a handheld GPS and a compass.
Pack some food, MREs (meals ready to eat) if possible, plus lightweight clothes, hats, spare sunglasses, a
slicker, a small first-aid kit and some sunblock. Some
AFTER THE
BOAT SINKS…
by Ralph Trout
Do a lifeboat drill. Then sit there for a while and imagine
how this would be for several hours or days
STREET’S GUIDES
ARE MORE ECONOMICAL!
Written by an author with 50 years of sailing
experience in the Caribbean, the series’ four volumes
cover the Eastern Caribbean from Puerto Rico
down through the islands and
the coast of Venezuela to the ABCs.
REAL SAILORS
BUY STREET’S GUIDES
Real sailors use Street’s Guides for inter-island and harbor
piloting directions, plus interesting anecdotes of people,
places and history. Street’s Guides are the only ones that
describe ALL the anchorages in the Eastern Caribbean.
NEW! Street’s videos, first made in 1985,
are now back as DVDs.
• “Transatlantic with Street” documents a sailing passage
from Ireland to Antigua via the Cape Verdes. 2 hours
• “Antigua Week ’85” is the story of the engineless yawl Iolaire
racing round the buoys to celebrate her 80th birthday. 1 hour
• “Street on Knots” demonstrates the essential knots and
line-handling skills every sailor should know. 1 hour
All are available via Armchair Sailor and Bluewater Books.
HURRICANE TIPS! Visit www.street-iolaire.com for a wealth of
information on tracking and securing for a storm.
Street’s Guides are available
at bookshops and chandleries, or from
www.iUniverse.com and www.seabooks.com
lifeboat survivors swear that having hand-line fishing
gear was the key to their survival. If you use a dinghy
as a liferaft, a piece of suitable cloth can be used as a
shade, rain catcher and makeshift sail.
Close to your dink, liferaft or hatch, store extra jugs
of water to take with you if you have to abandon ship.
The minimum water necessary to stay healthy is one
liter a day, but you can survive on less than five
ounces a day.
Better to have all of the above organized and not
need it, than to be floating for days, castigating yourself for procrastination.
Put passports and ships’ papers in a waterproof
pouch that can be grabbed at the last minute. If you
have time before abandoning ship, throw in the paper
chart and ship’s log, too.
Also if you have the time and space to include them,
a wetsuit would be a great way to fight hypothermia,
and fins, masks and snorkels might be useful.
Take some time and think of everything you might
need in a liferaft or dinghy that takes up little space.
Those wind-up flashlights and radios might be handy.
A couple of books might help pass the time. But be
realistic when packing your grab bag: if it includes
everything including the kitchen sink, you won’t be
able to lift it. It might even sink the liferaft.
Then do a lifeboat drill. You might not want to actually deploy an inflatable liferaft, but pretend the boat
is sinking fast and see how quickly you can collect
your grab bag, water and other stuff and get into the
dinghy. While you’re in the dinghy, sit there for a while
and imagine how this would be for several hours or
days, and maybe rethink what you want (or don’t
want) to have with you.
Take some more time and contemplate all the other
possible bad-luck scenarios that could possibly end
better with a bit of planning: dismasting, engine failure, dead battery, man overboard.
I am definitely a worst-case scenario guy. When the
Cow’s engine failed on the leeward side of the Eastern
Caribbean island chain, way west of Dominica, my
friend Florida Nick asked who would come to help us.
“Hondurans,” I replied. (Was he expecting Sea Tow?)
Fortunately, before we met any new friends from
Roatan, we got the engine going again.
The Cow’s Perkins only stopped once again, just
outside Trinidad’s Boca, and proved that having signaling equipment isn’t everything. Many boats passed
by us and never indicated that they saw my flares; the
coast guard didn’t respond to my radio call. Several
days later at a bar, a tugboat captain said he had
heard my distress call but didn’t respond since he
thought I’d probably get her running. (I did.)
That same tug captain told his own tale of a rescue
at sea, west of Jamaica. He was going to Kingston from
Honduras when he was radio-hailed by a small sailboat. The woman screamed that her husband had been
knocked overboard by the swinging boom a few hours
before. The tug went to the sailboat and put two crewmen aboard. Both boats searched the area and finally
found the man. The husband was so grateful, and fearful of another similar event, that he gave the tug captain his sailboat and he and his wife flew home.
So you’ve got to ask yourself: were you able to transmit a distress signal? Did anyone hear it? Did they
reply? Can you signal visually for help if you see a boat
or plane? Do you know your exact location? It is very
hard to find a raft in the open sea without knowing
reasonable coordinates or seeing a signal.
Bad weather delays searches. In the open ocean,
having the patience and ability (rain catcher, fishing
gear…) to wait for rescue might be the only solution.
If nobody knows your situation, you can see land
nearby, and the prevailing current is in your favor, you
might want to try to swim or paddle ashore (got a
paddle?). If you can sail and steer your liferaft, go for
it. But don’t swim if rescuers know your whereabouts
or you have any doubts about getting to shore: save
your energy.
Drowning after a shipwreck or sinking is the numberone worry. Everyone’s natural endurance is reduced by
the stress of an actual sinking. After the wreck, real
peril comes from exposure to the sun and salt, and
hypothermia from cold water and the wind. Body heat
loss is 25 times greater in water than in air.
In the liferaft, force yourself to relax and use less
energy. You will need less food and water. Water is an
absolute necessity, so don’t let the first rainfall pass
unprepared to catch the cure for dehydration. Digestion
requires water. If your water supply is low, try not to
eat. Your body needs water more than food. Most castaway sailors would trade anything for a desalinating
reverse osmosis hand pump (money extremely well
spent) that can filter up to three liters an hour.
PRODUCT
POSTINGS
boatowners can protect their investment from moisture and mold with the new, award-winning DryBoat
from Delta “T” Systems. The innovative marine dehumidifier system is one-third the size of traditional compressor/condenser type units and uses a fraction of
the power. Its small, solid-state heat pump provides an
unmatched level of reliability and efficiency.
Winner of the 2008 Innovation Award for Interior Parts
Eco-Friendly Oil Clean-Up Kit
The environmentally friendly Oil Clean-Up Kit from
Clean Water Solutions Inc. makes keeping your boat
end of normal pumping out, at the bottom of the
pump stroke, the user simply turns the handle through
90 degrees, which locks the piston down onto the
base outlet valve keeping it securely shut. Turning the
handle to the normal operating position opens the
lock again. It is a simple and intuitive solution, meaning skippers can sleep easy in the knowledge that
even in a big seaway, with a less than perfectly
installed unit, no water, or worse, waste, will find its
way into the cabin.
The “Twist ’n’ Lock” system is being installed on all
Jabsco Manual Toilets, both Compact and Regular
Bowl sizes and at no addition to the retail price.
For more information visit www.jabsconews.com.
ers for collecting rain, a knife, and a handful of safety
pins, which enabled them to catch small fish.
For 117 days, the nine-foot raft was their home.
Their supplies lasted only ten days. The raft cover was
their only way of collecting rain. Big turtles were
grabbed by a flipper and, with some difficulty, wrestled
aboard the raft and consumed. Seven ships crossed
within miles without sighting their raft. For a long
time, no one knew they were missing: they were only
expected in Tahiti after a month-long voyage. As they
drifted they planned a new sailboat and another voyage. Each lost about 40 pounds before being rescued
by a Korean fishing boat 1,500 miles from the site of
their shipwreck.
Best True Shipwreck Novel
Adrift was written by Steven Callahan, an American,
who drifted in the North Atlantic for 76 days and 1,800
miles in a covered liferaft. Callahan wrote his novel
after staying alive by eating barnacles and fish, and
distilling seawater with a solar still. Callahan was better equipped than most shipwreck survivors.
Six days after departing the Canary Islands, bound
for the Caribbean, Callahan felt a serious thud followed by a torrent of water into his boat’s hull. The
boat had been hit, probably by a whale or a barely
afloat container. In minutes he launched the wellprepared raft he later named Rubber Ducky. He
speared dorado and credited that with keeping him
alive. Sea Survival was the one book he saved from
the shipwreck.
Callahan saw a few ships pass, but no one saw his
raft. On his 43rd day, as he was fishing, a dorado
rammed the spear into an inflated tube of his raft. The
fish that fed him almost killed him. But in the end the
dorado caused his rescue. Callahan’s raft had formed
its own floating eco-system. Its barnacles provided
food for the dorado. Fishermen off the tiny island of
Marie Galante, east of Guadeloupe, saw frigate birds
in the distance. These birds meant fish were nearby so
they motored in that direction. They did not see the
Rubber Ducky until they got close.
Callahan is quoted: “It’s not about the destination,
it’s about the journey; adventure is available to anyone.” It took him another six weeks of hospital rehabilitation to regain his full strength.
Thanks, but no thanks to the opportunity to write a
first-person story about survival at sea after a sinking. I’d rather read another’s account. But then again,
I’d rather be around to write about the adventure if I
had it.
PAGE 33
Most Resilient
For decades, a Chinese seaman named Poon Lim
held the world’s shipwreck survivor record. (According
to the Guinness Book of Records, the record for drifting
at sea is held by two Kiribati fishermen, from the atoll
of Nikunau, who drifted for 177 days in 1992 before
coming ashore on the eastern end of Samoa.) Poon Lim
floated alone in a liferaft on the South Atlantic for 133
days when he was 25 years old. His ship, a British
merchant, quickly sank after it was torpedoed off Cape
Town, South Africa, in November of 1942. He luckily
found a wooden eight-foot square raft with some cans
of biscuits, a jug of water, flares, and a flashlight
lashed to it. He rationed himself to a few swallows of
water and two biscuits twice a day. He missed rescue
three times. Once a freighter passed nearby, a US
Navy patrol plane actually buzzed his raft, but he was
ignored. His third time wasn’t a charm as a German
sub (maybe the one that sank his ship) saw him, but
submerged and left him to drift.
Poon Lim forgot about rescue and fought to keep
himself alive until he found land. To keep his strength
up, he swam twice a day when the sea was calm. He
converted the cloth of his life jacket to a rain catchment. To catch fish, he used the line that held his
supplies, made a fishhook from a flashlight part, and
first baited it with a piece of biscuit. The fish he caught
were eaten raw and the remains used as bait to catch
the next fish. He trapped seagulls, using fish as bait,
and ate them. He also caught small sharks for survival food. He scratched a calendar of days adrift on
his raft. After 132 days he was rescued at the mouth
of the Amazon River in Brazil!
His feat made him an international celebrity. He had
only lost 20 pounds and after a month recuperating in
a Brazilian hospital he went to New York City and was
given permanent US residency. Poon Lim was awarded
the British Empire Medal and the Royal Navy included
his survival techniques in their training manuals.
His tale is told by Ruthanne Lum McCunn in the
1985 book Sole Survivor: A Story of Record Endurance
at Sea.
Another Whale
Maurice and Maralyn Bailey were sailing in the
Pacific on their 40-foot yacht, Auralyn. Mr. Bailey was
a 42-year-old printer and his wife was a 33-year-old
tax clerk. As they describe in their book 117 Days
Adrift, all went well until a sperm whale’s tail smashed
their boat. They collected what they could take with
them into the liferaft: totaling 33 cans of food, contain-
given at the Marine Aftermarket Accessories Trade
Show, the powerful DryBoat reduces humidity in spaces
up to 39.6 cubic metres. Innovation Award judge
Charles Doane, who is SAIL magazine’s editor-at-large,
said, “This device employs technology that promises to
revolutionize interior climate control in boats.”
For more information visit www.deltatsystems.com.
CARIBBEAN COMPASS
—Continued from previous page ..after the boat sinks
Drinking seawater is a good conversation topic while
sipping a sundowner in the bar, but it is dangerous
and can lead to serious health problems like kidney
failure (as does drifting for months without water).
Dr. Bombard, the eminent saltwater-consumption researcher, survived 63 days drifting without any supplies of food or water. His research found he could
survive (not really hale and hearty) on tiny amounts of
saltwater a day.
Salt water removes your skin’s natural oils and sunburns increase dehydration. Avoid sunstroke by keeping your head covered and stay as motionless as possible. Always wear light clothing, and try to dry it
before sunset.
Tom Hanks’ “Forest Gump” character supposedly
coined the expression “shit happens”, and his
“Castaway” character had to live through it. Lifejackets
are mandatory equipment on all boats and live up to
their name as the best personal flotation device. No
matter the boat or the situation — even going for an
afternoon’s fishing or a quick sightsee — always look
for the PFDs. If “shit happens” too fast, grab anything
that will keep you afloat.
You certainly don’t want to lose at the shipwrecked
sailor game. Here are some of the winners. The losers for
the most part remain largely unknown. Be prepared!
Father and Son, Two-Time Survivors
The book Survive the Savage Sea tells the firsthand
story of the Robertson family. In 1971 they bought
Lucette, a 43-foot wooden schooner, to sail around the
world. The family sailed across the Atlantic to the
Caribbean, and through the Panama Canal to the
Galapagos Islands. But several days after leaving the
Galapagos, attacked by a pod of orca whales, Lucette
sank. The Robertson family was alone on the Pacific
Ocean, outside the shipping lanes. It was more than a
month before they were missed. They drifted 16 days
in their liferaft with their dinghy in tow, with not
nearly enough food or water. On the 17th day, the raft
sank, and they piled into their nine-foot dinghy for 22
more days until rescued by a Japanese fishing trawler.
The six of them miraculously survived in the dinghy
with less than ten inches of freeboard by catching fish
and turtles for nourishment.
This English Family Robertson adventure is even
more notable since the father had previously survived
the Japanese sinking his Royal Navy ship during
WWII; and the son, as a Royal Naval Cadet on his first
ship, later survived another sinking in the Pacific.
pristine easy, and protecting the environment a simple, achievable reality. Just a small amount of Clean
Water Microbial Powder and Blue Surfactant mixed
with water will lift oil residue and pollutants from any
surface and kills odors, while the Kit’s Razor Sponge
easily wipes away oil and grime. Fast, efficient, and
low-cost, the Kit is perfect for cleaning and deodorizing heads, bilges, catch basins, septic tanks, porous
surfaces and even laundry!
The key to Clean Water Solutions’ eco-friendly products are naturally-occurring Archaea microbes in the
Oil Clean-Up Kit that “eat” hydrocarbons from diesel
fuel and gasoline, grease, lubricants, vegetable oils
and sewage. Best of all, these microbes convert the
dangerous hydrocarbons into beneficial, non-hazardous fatty acids that provide food for fish and plant life.
For more information visit www.cwsius.com.
SEPTEMBER 2008
No Sweat!
Gone are the days of noisy, maintenance-intensive
dehumidifiers that eat up space and power. Now
New Twist for Cleaner, Safer Boating
As one of the world’s leading designers and manufacturers of marine toilets, Jabsco continues to search
for new ways to improve its products and functionality. The new “Twist ’n’ Lock” manual toilet range does
just that by addressing the issues of syphonic flooding
and waste backflow. In their installation instructions,
Jabsco have always promoted the use of sea cocks,
vented loops and the correct positioning of holding
tanks. However, modern boat design tends to work
against these basic principles, with sea cocks hidden
from view and even holding tanks installed above,
rather than below the toilet.
The new Jabsco “Twist ’n’ Lock” design uses a
remodelled piston in the pump-out assembly. At the
More Energy-Saving LED Lights
Two new LED lights from Hella marine get a mention
this month: Their stylish LED Oblong Courtesy and Step
Lamps are important contributors to safety on board,
and consuming a miniscule 0.5 watts, Hella Marine’s
unique Multivolt LED technology versions provide consistent illumination across a range of input voltages
from ten to 33 DC. Designed and manufactured in
New Zealand, these lamps are extremely shock- and
vibration-resistant with no bulbs or filaments to break.
Ideal for illuminating storage areas, companionways,
deck fittings, signs and switches, classy Oblong
Courtesy Lamps are available in amber, red, blue,
green and white.
Hella has also recently announced its new compact, reliable power-saving LED Navigation Lamps.
Easily seen from two nautical miles away, the lamps
offer all the energy-saving and dependability benefits
of Hella Marine LED technology. Their NaviLED lamps
draw less than two watts each, ten percent of the
power of a comparable incandescent bulb. They are
a complete “fit and forget” electronic device, fully
sealed to protect against the harmful effects of saltwater corrosion. Hella Marine multivolt circuitry ensures
consistent illumination from eight to 28 volts DC, even
under low battery voltages and high charging loads.
Quality marine cable is pre-wired with each lamp,
providing time-saving, waterproof installations.
NaviLED lamps are certified for recreational and commercial vessels under IMO COLREG, USCG, RINA (I)
and ABYC A-16 standards. Advanced lens and optic
designs ensure highly accurate cut-offs and clear visibility. Intended for sail and powerboats, the innovative
lamps even take into account vertical visibility when a
sailboat is heeling.
For more information on Hella marine products visit
www.hellamarine.com.
Adrift
SEPTEMBER 2008
ARIES (21 Mar - 20 Apr)
Your love life could be sailing into rough weather with a
possible “on the rocks” situation in the last half of the
month. Reef the sails early and try to see the humor
in things.
SEPTEMBER 2008
CARIBBEAN COMPASS
PAGE 34
TAURUS (21 Apr - 21 May)
This will be a very prolific time: you’ll be finding creative
courses to make your business or financial situation a
success. Aspects are good for inspiration and insight.
GEMINI (22 May - 21 Jun)
September will be a slog to windward with petty business problems and difficulties in creative decision-making. You may feel overwhelmed, but your crew and boatbuddies will be there for you.
CANCER (22 Jun - 23 Jul)
There will be a general ebb tide in your love life, accompanied by squalls of arguments. Power through it: avoidance, one of Cancer’s most renowned traits, will only serve
to prolong the discomfort.
LEO (24 Jul - 23 Aug)
You’ll have the time and energy, so this would be a good
month to concentrate on making progress in the projects
demanding attention on board.
Isla
Po nd
ets
Nestled in the genny bag
Watching the new day begin
The sun rises between my knees.
The dark band of scruffy clouds
Scatters left and right
From the explosive light
Which brightens a towering cumulus out west
So white its shadow cast upon the sea
Suggests a sandy beach where none can be.
The French-blue sky is streaked
With pink and yellow
The band of clouds splits apart
Where the orange ball will start.
Ahead, and south, a squall line threatens
Then begins to dissipate as if intimidated
By the sight.
No wind.
The sea is calm,
Its form a series of long one-foot swells.
The sun has become a white burning disk.
I turn my back
To face the cool blues of the western sky,
And there, to the north, is the glint of metal
Of an approaching ship.
VIRGO (24 Aug - 23 Sep)
This will be a good month for progress with any marinerelated business. Your creativity will increase the flow of
business ideas. Make use of this.
LIBRA (24 Sep - 23 Oct)
You will be kept very busy with the ups and downs in
the sea of love until the 21st, when it either clears up or
goes on the rocks.
— Cornelia Haden Brewer
SCORPIO (24 Oct - 22 Nov)
Spend this time clearing the decks, as love should take
all your time after the 24th.
SAGITTARIUS (23 Nov - 21 Dec)
Winds will be a bit weak and fluky this month, especially in any business or creative ventures.
parlumps marooned
CAPRICORN (22 Dec - 20 Jan)
Your love life will take all your energies, especially
from the 7th to the 24th with a constant to and fro
of emotions.
AQUARIUS (21 Jan - 19 Feb)
The very aspects that humbug Capricorn will bring fair
weather in your love life. Enjoy it.
PISCES (20 Feb - 20 Mar)
Any business or creative projects you take on will just
bring you frustration and aggravation. You’ll be stuck in
business irons for several weeks but the creativity will
clear up after the 23rd.
Our Advertisers Support
the Compass…
Please Support Them.
[email protected]
We are on-line:
Compass Cruising Crossword
‘DEAD’ IN THE WATER
ACROSS
2) 5 Across ____: making as little progress as possible
4) “Fifteen 28 Down on a 5 Across ____ 19 Across”:
pirate chantey
5) Not alive
7) 5 Across ____wind: sailing with the breeze astern
8) 5 Across _____: hoisting of inert body
11) 5 Across ______: completely level
12) 5 Across ______: sailed back to homeport with no cargo
or passengers
14) 5 Across ___: block with hole to allow lines
to pass through
15) 5 Across _____: these are fitted to outside of quarterdeck
to keep sea out
18) 5 Across ______: aperture in heel of topmast for
tackle pendant
19) Pirate’s booty holder?
21) 5 Across ____ _____: timbers that connect keel with stem
and stern posts (2 words)
23) 5 Across _____: sea under stern counter when ship
is underway
25) 5 Across ______: part of ship between keel and
floor timbers towards stern posts
26) 5 Across ____: Total cessation of wind
27) 5 Across ___: slang for death benefit
29) To muffle noise
30) 5 Across ___ against: adamantly opposed to
32) 5 Across ______: heavy cargo
Down
CARIBBEAN COMPASS
Crossword Solution on page 28
SEPTEMBER 2008
1) 5 Across ___: point where no further progress can be made
3) 5 Across ____: timber on upper side of keel
4) 5 Across ______: slang for winter
6) Katabatic, coriolis and lee-bow are types of these
9) 5 Across _______: payment due for goods not shipped
10) 5 Across _____ 6 Down: deceased sailors’ possessions
auctioned before the mast
13) 5 Across _____: area open to attack
16) 5 Across _________: navigation without use of stars
17) Fatal
20) 5 Across ____: rough block of wood used as anchor buoy
21) 5 Across _____: all of ship above waterline when
fully laden
22) 5 Across ______: allowance given to officers of ship
24) 5 Across _____: those that do not run through any block
28) 5 Across ___: sail-tie or gasket ends left dangling under
the yard when sails are furled
31) 5 Across __ weather: straight into the wind
PAGE 35
Word Search Puzzle by Pauline Dolinski
They say that the pen is mightier than the sword, but all you puzzle pirates
might want to use pencil — unless you’re very brave and bold!
Word Search Puzzle solution on page 26
CRUISING KIDS’ CORNER
A
unt Josephina had grown so tired of hearing
her son Ernie complain about having nothing
to do when the school holidays came around
that she agreed to let his cousin Trevor from St. Lucia
stay with them whenever he could make it. Well, you
couldn’t really blame Ernie for being bored, because
they did live way over on the wild Atlantic coast of
Barbados, far from the busy beaches and energetic life
of Bridgetown. His father, Uncle Solly, was retired and
he liked the quiet life of keeping his two superior goats,
a mild cow and his dear old pony, Matilda, on their
little property high above Sweet Bottom. But
Uncle Solly was also tired of having to drive the
two restless boys about the island so he
bought Ernie a pushbike, second-hand of
course, and that meant that he had to buy
Trevor a second-hand bike as well. Now, most
young people wouldn’t be seen dead on an oldfashioned bike so Uncle Solly got the bikes
very cheap. Nyna, Ernie’s little sister, immediately begged for a bike too, but Aunt Josephina
put her foot down.
“No way!” she said with her don’t-argue-withme voice. “Bad enough to have Ernie getting
into mischief, but not my daughter.” It was no
use appealing to her dad either, because what
Aunt Josephina said was always final.
“Oh, brother!” laughed Trevor when he saw the two
old-fashioned bikes. “I wouldn’t be seen dead on one of
these at home!” But Ernie told him to shut up and be
thankful for small mercies (or words to that effect).
And that is how Trevor and Ernie almost lost their biking privileges for all time.
It happened like this. Every morning after breakfast,
Trevor and Ernie would take a couple of sandwiches and
a plastic bottle of water and some juice (they weren’t
allowed money) in a small backpack and ride off to
explore the nearby beaches. They didn’t go very far at
first, usually stopping at a cove somewhere nearby and
swimming in the cool, salt water, then running and
playing on the sand. But this became too tame for
Trevor and he convinced Ernie to venture inland. This is
how they found themselves outside the racecar circuit.
“Gosh,” smiled Ernie, “Dad always promised to take
me to see the racecars but he never got around to it.”
And he sat on his bike and sighed. “Come on then,”
urged Trevor, “let’s find a way inside!”
Ernie didn’t need persuading and the two boys
cycled off around the chainlink fence until they came
to the big entry gates that, surprise, surprise, stood
wide open. Trevor and Ernie pedaled through, seeing
no one — they didn’t know that the race committee
was having a meeting in the hall by the stands. What
they did see was a sleek, green sports car. They had no
eyes to see the other cars parked behind the stands so
Trevor and Ernie dropped their bikes and ran down
the path to inspect this wondrous machine.
“When I grow up, the first thing I’m going to get is a
sports car just like this!” gushed Trevor, running his
hands along the side of the car from its aerodynamic
windfoil to its low-slung nose.
“Look Trevor, someone’s left the keys in the ignition!” whispered Ernie in awe.
Trevor, being a boy with more bravado than sense,
immediately whipped open the door, climbed in behind
the steering wheel, pulled the seatbelt tight about him
and pretended to drive, his throat uttering the low
“thrum-thrums” of a sports car engine.
wanted to do now was to slow down. He threw the car
into the gears; one after the other, hoping the machine
would slow down by itself. He was too frightened to
touch the brakes, thinking that would catapult them
through the windscreen, and too panic-stricken to
turn off the ignition. At last, after two full laps, Ernie
managed to croak, “Trevor, try turning off the ignition
and then use the brakes!”
Needless to say, Trevor eventually managed to get the
car to slow down and he even steered it back to where
he had found it. When the doors were yanked open and
angry faces looked inside, Trevor was just sitting there, paralyzed with shock. Although
Ernie managed to get out of the car by himself,
his legs buckled as soon as his feet hit the
ground. Trevor had to be released from his
seatbelt and pulled roughly from the car and
then the two boys were frog-marched to the
office. The owner of the car stayed behind with
some friends to inspect the car for damage.
And what a to-do followed! Uncle Solly had
been phoned to come at once, but he wisely
told his wife that the two boys had got into a
harmless prank and needed to be taken home,
that’s all. The boys waited, shaking with fright,
until Uncle Solly arrived. He was told all the
details and warned that if the boys did it again the
police would be involved. Fortunately the racecar suffered no damage or else the consequences would have
been far worse.
by Lee Kessell
“Trevor, Trevor, get out before you’re caught!”
begged Ernie. But Trevor, his eyes unfocused, bleated
back, “Jump in, Ernie!”
And with that Trevor turned the key in the ignition
and a great roar issued from the chrome exhaust pipe.
Trevor slung the lever into first gear and Ernie had no
choice but to throw himself into the passenger seat
and slam the door before the door slammed him into
pie meat.
Trevor’s dad had given his son some driving lessons
at home so Trevor did know something about cars, but
the power of this car almost bucked him off the track.
He changed gear with a horrible grinding noise and
zigzagged madly all over the racing surface. Nor did he
really know where he was going because once on the
circuit he had a choice of all sorts of side roads into
pits, smaller circuits and inspection areas. Trevor was
jolted by the rough surface of the track as well, not
realizing that a smooth surface would send the cars all
skidding into each other when they accelerated or took
the turns, especially if it rained. So Trevor had his
hands full just keeping the car on the wide track in
front of him. As for Ernie, the first thing he had done
was to look down and grab for his seatbelt fastening it
tight, but when he looked up the breath caught in his
throat and his eyes bulged with fright because everything was coming up in front of him so fast.
By now, the race committee members had come
pouring out of the hall and were running in all directions around the circuit, waving their arms and shouting. But Trevor saw and heard none of this. All he
Swimming in the cool,
salt water, then running
and playing on the sand
became too tame…
At last
tie th
the bik
bikes onto
l t Uncle
U l Solly
S ll was allowed
ll
d tto ti
t
the roof rack of his car and take the boys home. He
drove in silence all the way to the top of the steep coral
road high above the angry Atlantic, which was worse
punishment for the boys than the biggest lecture. Here
Uncle Solly stopped the car and turning to the boys
said, “Best not to upset Aunt Josephina, boys. I won’t
tell her the seriousness of your narrow escape this
time, but let this be a warning — any more trouble
and you’re grounded for good.”
Trevor and Ernie breathed a deep sigh of relief and
as Uncle Solly drove through the gate to the farmyard
they had to agree that the sneers of those two superior
goats were well deserved.
THE END
PROUDLY SPONSORED BY PETIT ST. VINCENT RESORT
e is Dolly and my home is in
y nam
t
he
Hel
.
sea
M
lo!
DOLLY’S DEEP SECRETS
by Elaine Ollivierre
ELAINE OLLIVIERRE 2008 ©
SEPTEMBER 2008
CARIBBEAN COMPASS
PAGE 36
Trevor, Ernie and
the Racecar
Do you remember why scientific names are important? They help to identify
individual organisms even when there may be more than one local name. For
example, the fish called ‘rock hind’ in Bequia is often called ‘oualioua’ (walawa) in
Carriacou but its scientific name of Epinephelus adscensionus lets us know that
we’re all talking about the same fish!
What language is used for scientific names? They are written in Latin (and
sometimes Greek). Latin was the language used by all scientists for scientific writing at the time when Linnaeus was compiling his lists of species. So we continue
to use it today.
When Linnaeus first formulated his classification system, he divided the world
into three kingdoms: animals, plants and minerals. However, the mineral kingdom
was soon abandoned so that the Linnaean system dealt only with living things. As
science and technology progressed over the centuries, other different kinds of
organisms were discovered so now, we usually use five kingdoms called animalia,
plantae, fungi, monera and protista. What are these?
We can usually recognize animals and plants but, scientifically, they are
described as follows. Animals in the animalia kingdom are organisms made of
many cells. They can move around and they eat and then digest their food. Plants
in the plantae kingdom are also multi-cellular but they cannot move around and
they make their own food by photosynthesis. Organisms like mushrooms are multicellular and grow like a plant but they have no chlorophyll (which is the substance
which makes a plant green) so they cannot photosynthesize. So mushrooms, toadstools, moulds, yeasts, etcetera, cannot fit in to the plantae kingdom and have their
own: fungi.
The development of the microscope enabled scientists to see the very, very tiny
creatures which make up the protista and the monera kingdoms. Both are made
up of single-celled organisms but the algae and protozoans in the protista kingdom
are larger and have a different kind of cell nucleus than the bacteria of the monera
kingdom. It is sometimes very difficult to distinguish between organisms in the
fungi, protista and monera kingdoms. Some scientists have even split the monera
kingdom into two to help with the classification of these microscopic organisms.
They put true bacteria (eubacteria) in one kingdom and bacteria-like organisms
which live in extreme conditions in deep ocean hydrothermal vents (archaebacteria) in another.
As more and more species are discovered, their classification becomes more complicated. Linnaeus’s classification with its seven taxonomic levels (kingdom, phylum, class, order, family, genus, species) has had to be extended to include ‘sub’
levels and ‘super’ levels. But, the end of the taxonomic chain for each living organism on earth is still its scientific name.
WORD PUZZLE
Unscramble these words from the text and insert in the box. Find the special
word written vertically.
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
DROWL
ARTISTOP
TALENAP
MODGINK
ANAILAIM
EMANOR
UFING
MESSTY
9
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
Answer on page 42
NEW GUIDE TO CETACEANS
OF THE ANTILLES
A la découverte des Cétacés des Antilles, PLB Editions ©2008. Hard cover,
64 pages, color photos and illustrations. ISBN 978-2-35365-004-0.
A new reference guide to the cetaceans of the Caribbean has recently been published in French. It is one of the “A la découverte...” series from PLB Editions. PLB
Editions is a Guadeloupe-based publishing company that produces field guides to
the trees, flowers, birds and fish of the Antilles, as well as children’s books and books
in Creole.
Portrait of Port
of Spain
Historic Landmarks of Port of Spain, by Michael Anthony. Macmillan Caribbean
© 2008. Hard cover or paperback, 102 pages, color photos throughout.
ISBN 978-0-333-97555-8.
Trinidadian novelist and historian Michael Anthony introduces us to the colorful,
crowded and sometimes crazy history of the capital city of Trinidad & Tobago by
writing about its most notable buildings, parks, cemeteries and public squares. His
text is well illustrated with photos and maps.
This seaside city boasts some lovely examples of traditional Caribbean architecture, such as the former private residence that is now Jenny’s restaurant and the
SEPTEMBER 2008
PAGE 37
exquisite Simpson House, as well as a few modern buildings that reflect both taste
and a sense of place and culture. Unfortunately, it also has some discordantly severe
specimens, such as the Colonial Life Building and the Treasury Building, that seem
more reminiscent of Soviet Russia than emblematic of the country that made
Carnival the premier Caribbean art form. Most visitors will have seen the ornate,
European-influenced, early 20th century “Magnificent Seven” buildings laid out
along the Queen’s Park Savannah, and these are given due attention. The full selection of examples shows Port of Spain and its history as they are — the good, the bad
and the ugly.
Each building or site acts as a focal point for the author’s description of a different
aspect of Port of Spain’s history, and the sum of the parts is a well-rounded picture
of a unique Caribbean town.
We only wish that the book’s cover, which shows a statue of a rather bored-looking
Sir Ralph Woodford (British governor from 1813 to 1828), had instead depicted
something as lively as Port of Spain itself.
Available at bookstores in Trinidad or at www.Macmillan-caribbean.com.
CARIBBEAN COMPASS
Good guides already exist to the whales and dolphins of the world, but this is the
first that we are aware of specifically devoted to the cetaceans found in the Antilles.
For the purpose of this book, the Antilles include the island chain running from
Cuba to Grenada, plus the Bahamas and the islands of Providencia and San Andres
off Nicaragua.
Whalewatching is a growing business in the region, with trips offered out of
Antigua, Dominica, the Dominican Republic, Grenada, Guadeloupe, St. Kitts &
Nevis, St. Lucia, St. Vincent and Turks & Caicos. It’s also a thrill to see whales or
dolphins from the deck of a private or charter yacht.
But do you know what they are?
The great whales commonly seen in this area are the humpback (Megaptera novaeangliae, or baleine à bosse in French) and the sperm whale (Physeter macrocephalus,
or cachalot in French). A thoroughly illustrated chapter is devoted to each. There are
also chapters on each of the numerous dolphin species found in these waters.
This handy guide will be primarily of interest to French-speakers, but even if your French
is rusty, the abundant, clear photos and illustrations will be useful in identification.
The publishers hope to release editions of the book in English and Spanish in the
near future.
Available in Guadeloupe at the Musée Balen ka Souflé à Bouillante, and at other
outlets in Guadeloupe and Martinique.
BOOK REVIEW BY RICHARD DEY
Island Story
SEPTEMBER 2008
CARIBBEAN COMPASS
PAGE 38
The Condition, by Jennifer Haigh. HarperCollins, © 2008. Hardcover,
ISBN 978-0-06-075578-2.
Imaginary islands in fiction tend to be one of two types: a truly fantastic place,
without specific geology or position, where something extraordinary, good or bad,
can happen or a place grounded in reality, often a mix of existent known islands,
where things more common to our general experience happen. As examples, consider William Golding’s Lord of the Flies or Herman Melville’s Omoo. In Golding’s
allegorical novel, extraordinary adventures beset a group of boys stranded on an
imaginary island after a plane crash; in Melville’s story, on the other hand, the hero
escapes from Typee, an island based on the Marquesas, and moves on to Tahiti and
elsewhere. However conceived, there is about islands in literature a certain magical
quality and we have only to recall Shakespeare’s The Tempest to see that change and
transformation can occur on an imaginary island, far from civilization, so-called, and
organized society.
St. Raphael, the Caribbean island in Jennifer Haigh’s new novel The Condition, fits
more or less in the second group. Haigh’s two previous novels are Baker Towers
(2005) and the PEN/Hemingway Award-winning Mrs. Kimble (2003). St. Raphael is
described as being in the Leewards and yet a hurricane strikes nearby St. Lucia. In
fact, St. Raphael resembles St. Lucia in most respects, with a French patois, inclusive resorts on a north coast, nude beaches, reef and wall diving, a cruise ship terminal, drug running, and so on.
Not that it really matters.
What does matter is that it is an island that facilitates change — change in the
novel’s major character. Gwen McKotche suffers from a rare genetic disorder,
Turner’s Syndrome, which is caused by a missing or defective X chromosome in
females. It occurs in about one of 2,500 live female births. Its main symptoms are
short stature and infertility—ovaries do not develop. There is no cure for the problem
although growth-hormone injections and estrogen can modify some of the symptoms. The girl ages intellectually and emotionally but remains physically arrested at
age 12, before puberty. As a result, Gwen has suffered all her adult life for being
something of a freak, and her immediate family has suffered to various degrees with
and because of her disorder. However, it is on St. Raphael, at age 34, that Gwen
comes into her own and finds acceptance for who she is, as she is. And to some
extent, at that point, the story line leaves medical boundaries and ascends into
unbounded transformation.
One of the few activities Gwen does is scuba diving and it is to dive that she travels to St. Raphael. Once installed in “Pleasures,” a resort catering to singles, she
suffers the usual humiliations that come with her condition. But in the water, “She
was gliding like a spirit who’d escaped its container. She had no body. It was the
freest feeling she had ever known.” On the boat she meets Rico, the dive master, and
new possibilities unfold. In meeting him, she meets herself and for the first time
experiences a “wild random joy.” While Rico, a native islander, is in many ways a
stock character (the handsome, glib boat operator to whom the vacation girls give
their room keys), he is also a sort of Prospero.
The novel is not about Gwen alone, however, even though it is written around her.
Gwen’s family members — father, mother, older brother, and younger brother —
each get equal attention. It is really a multilayered story about a dysfunctional New
England family, a domestic psychodrama that takes place over some 25 years. Both
parents and both siblings also have conditions that could be considered as aberrant
as Turner’s, outside what the mother considers “the natural order of things.” The
family members are all sympathetically and deeply imagined, and have their own
points-of-view. The narrative is languorously and skillfully told, meticulously
researched, and profoundly moving.
It is the youngest son, Scott, who is sent by the mother to St. Raphael to find out
what has happened to Gwen and bring her “back to civilization” — back to the USA,
back to her job as a curator in a Pittsburgh anthropological museum, back to her
suffocating family, back to a pretty miserable, bleak, and solitary life. In Scott’s
search for Gwen, we see a different view of St. Raphael and its locals, and we see
how the island affects him.
The Condition is a novel of reversals — characters go one way only to go another
and then still another. While Gwen does escape the continent and find a new life on
St. Raphael with Rico, the other family members are changed only to remain, in the
end, no different. The novel is arguably less about Gwen than about her mother,
Paulette — selfish, neurotic, partly educated and partly vacant, all controlling.
Be that as it may, we are not at all unhappy with Gwen’s island fate and the healing hope of love, the power of transformation. Nor are we unhappy to see the cultural assumptions each character embodies challenged. Not just beauty or ugliness,
the “normal” or the “deviant,” but all things human, we come to see in this compelling, insightful novel, are in the eye of the beholder.
Available at bookstores and from www.amazon.com.
BOOK REVIEW BY BOB BERLINGHOF
Whodunnit —
and Who are the Redlegs?
Trouble Tree, by John Hill Porter. Macmillan Caribbean, ©2008. 320 pages.
ISBN 978-4050-7105-5.
SEPTEMBER 2008
er’s
Trouble Tree is a murder mystery that cleverly links an NYPD arson detective with his father’s
roots in Barbados. In the opening scene a mysterious lanky stranger shoots the detective, Ben
Cumberbatch, in the head. Although Ben goes temporarily into a coma, the wound is not fatal.
tal.
However, it requires extensive therapy for Ben to recall any events in the near past. As part of his
therapy he starts writing his family history, and the reader begins to discover Ben’s troubled famme.
ily tree. “Trouble tree doan bear no blossom” is the Bajan proverb that lends the book its name.
tBen and his father, Nate, are descendants of Bajan “redlegs”, a combination of English debtors, Scottish poor and Irish political prisoners who were sent to the colonies as “indentured
d
servants”, virtual slaves to the plantation owners of the 17th and 18th Centuries. They
y
worked on the plantations for at least seven years. They were desperately poor and became
e
inbred, since they looked down upon marrying blacks as much as their masters looked down
n
on them. Ben’s grandmother Dora fathered Nate with a black man so that Nate wouldn’tt
suffer the genetic fate of his two half-siblings. Unfortunately the reader never gets to know
Nate, since he dies while Ben is in the coma. Nate is portrayed as a responsible father and
fun-loving gigolo before his life was cut short, the victim of a vicious attack in Brooklyn.
All is not well in Barbados, either, as Ben’s uncle is murdered and the murder is covered up
by the local Police Chief, Ollie Shorter. In an amazing coincidence, Ben and Ollie were childhood friends — Ben had visited his Grandmother Dora for three consecutive summers as a
youth — and Ollie’s sister Annie had been Ben’s first love. Annie comes back into Ben’s life in
an unexpected way, giving the novel a tasteful and sexy twist to the menacing conspiracy that
Ben is trying to uncover.
Murder and (in another coincidence) arson are eventually linked back to a mysterious
group of wealthy power brokers who rule the island. Ben pays a heavy price to try and
uncover the murderers through expert sleuthing and a forensic lab in New York City. My
only problem with the original mystery was that it was a little too obvious. A clumsy clue
was dropped early on that killed the suspense for me. However, as the novel progresses, and
as Ben tries to regain memories of the night he was shot, his personal ties to Ollie and Annie
compromise his objectivity. The ending is satisfying, though bittersweet, and Ben joins the
ranks of Sam Spade (as played by Humphrey Bogart) as a hero.
My second problem with the book had to do with one of its villains, a man whose homosexual past was the cause of such psychological problems that he became a homicidal nut.
I’m personally tired of that stereotype, even though the author took some pains to describe
the misery that anti-gay prejudice in the Caribbean can cause. Recognizing prejudice is
one thing, but enforcing negative stereotypes only clutters the mind that the prejudice is
somehow warranted.
Given these faults, the novel is lucidly written, particularly the early chapters about
young Ben in Barbados. As he works in his Grandma Dora’s garden every day to earn
his keep, he learns the value of hard labor, family ties, and money and class differences
in the West Indies. The “redlegs” today have offspring in St. Vincent (Dorsetshire Hill),
Bequia (Mount Pleasant), Grenada (Mount Moritz), and in Carriacou, the irony being
that in those islands many are among the most well-to-do of local families through dint
of their work ethic and maritime skills. But Trouble Tree has a universal West Indian
core, which redeems its minor flaws. I couldn’t put it down — a fascinating and edifying read.
CARIBBEAN COMPASS
PAGE 39
Available at bookstores or from www.macmillan-caribbean.com.
B & C FUELS
ENTERPRISE
Welcomes you to
Petite Martinique
A stepping stone as you
cruise through St. Vincent, Grenada and the Grenadines.
Come alongside our splendid jetty and replenish your
supplies of FUEL, OIL, WATER and ICE
at the cheapest prices in the Grenadines.
Call sign: “Golf Sierra” VHF channel 16
For further information call Glenn Clement or
Reynold Belmar. Tel/Fax: (473) 443-9110
GRENADINES
SAILS & CANVAS
BEQUIA
Come in and see us for all your SAILS & CANVAS needs
including CUSTOM-MADE stainless steel
BIMINI & DODGER frames at competitive prices
Located opposite G.Y.E.
(northern side of Admiralty Bay)
REPRESENTATIVE
Tel (784) 457-3507 / 457-3527 (evenings)
e-mail: [email protected] VHF Ch16/68
—Continued from page 10
…Eco News
He also stated that the workshop will assist in building a network throughout the
Grenadines as plans are underway for the annual International Coastal Cleanup
scheduled for September 20th.
SEPTEMBER 2008
CARIBBEAN COMPASS
PAGE 40
Litter is everybody’s concern. While the Grenadines tackled the problem with a workshop for community
awareness and education (above), in Venezuela (below) a massive beach clean-up
was organized on Isla La Tortuga
Venezuelan Eco-Group on the Move
The Venezuelan environmental group Fundación La
Tortuga (FLT) has stepped up its activities to keep their
country’s Caribbean coastline clean and green.
On July 18th, nine youngsters from the Don Bosco
Children’s Home in Puerto La Cruz celebrated Children’s
Day by joining FLT members in an educational environmental survey of their coastal surroundings and collecting litter
from Lechería Beach in the process.
From the 24th through the 27th of July, the group held a
coastal clean-up netting nearly a ton of debris. More than 50
volunteers, who camped out in tents for three nights,
removed trash and other contaminants from beaches on the
north side of Isla La Tortuga, the second-largest island in
the country.
Throughout 2008, FLT has undertaken various scientific
expeditions aimed at monitoring, listing and collecting data
on the natural resources of Isla La Tortuga. Assisted by
researchers from the Oceanographic Institute of Venezuela,
the University of Sucre State and the Sea Turtle Working
Group of Nueva Esparta, the subjects studied so far have
included birds, sea turtles, vegetation, corals, phytoplankton, cetaceans, algae and sponges.
A recent FLT-assisted avian study by professor Gedio Marin
of the University of Oriente listed the 37 species of seabirds,
endemics and migratory visitors found on Isla Tortuga, 11 of
which are protected. FLT notes that while birdwatching is a
valuable component of tourism, overdevelopment, deforestation and littering are threats to these birds.
For more information visit www.fundacionlatortuga.org.
Jost van Dyke Wildlife Surveyed
During a recent environmental survey, researchers Jean
Pierre Bacle and Kevel Lindsay of the Island Resources
Foundation recorded three species of bats and five species
of frogs on the British Virgin Island of Jost van Dyke.
The species of bats recorded were the Cave Bat
(Brachyphylla cavernum), the Jamaican Fruit Bat (Artibeus
jamaicensis) and Pallas’ Mastiff Bat (Molossus molossus).
The five species of frogs identified were the Antillean Frog
(Eleutherodactylus antillensis), the Mute Frog (E. lentus),
Schwartz’s Eleuterodactylus (E. Schwartzi), Cochranes’s
Eleutherodactylus (E. Cochrane) and the White-lipped Frog
(Leptodactylus albilaris).
Other interesting findings were the presence of two species of harmless endemic snake — the Virgin Islands Tree
Boa (Epicrates monensis granti) and the Virgin Islands
Worm Snake (Typhlops richardi). Three species of rare
plants — Jost van Dyke’s Indian Mallow Bastardiopsis eggersii, the Ramgoat Cherry (Malpighia woodburyana) and
Cockspur (Erythrina eggersii) — were also identified. The
latter two plants were observed on Jost van Dyke for the
first time.
These findings are an initial output of an environmental
project on Jost van Dyke that focuses on advancing environmental protection and sustainable development on that
island. The project started in April and is expected to be
completed in December 2009. The project is being coordinated by the Jost van Dykes (BVI) Preservation Society
(JVDPS), a local, non-profit corporation dedicated to the
preservation of the island of Jost van Dyke i.e. its land, the
surrounding sea, its living creatures and its culture.
Funding for the project comes from the Overseas Territories
Environmental Programme (OTEP) and is disbursed through
the Governor’s Office.
TYRREL BAY YACHT HAULOUT
CARRIACOU
● New environmentally friendly haulout
● 50-ton hoist, 18ft beam, 8ft draft
● Water
● Do it yourself or labour available
VHF: 16
● Mini - Marina
● Chandlery
Tel/Fax:
[email protected]
473.443.8175
Research on the natural and historical environment
of Jost van Dyke will continue over the next six
months, after which an environmental profile of Jost
van Dyke will be prepared.
Community input will be sought throughout the
project and the community will be kept up to date on
the progress of the project. Several of the Jost van
Dyke residents who were present at a community
meeting held on May 6th to introduce the project,
voiced their support for the project and for any efforts
to conserve the natural environment of Jost van Dyke.
District Officer Carmen Blyden fully supports the initiative, noting that at present the children of Jost van
Dyke study the natural environment of the neighboring islands of Tortola and Anegada. In her words, “a
project such as this gives us our own identity”.
For more information on the project visit www.
jvdgreen.org. For more information on the Jost van
Dykes Preservation Society visit www.jvdps.org.
Bonaire Tracks Sea Turtles
Among its other efforts, Sea Turtle Conservation
Bonaire (STCB) provides a unique service — e-mail
updates of the current whereabouts of sea turtles that
In the last several years STCB has tracked a total of
six turtles to the waters off Nicaragua and Honduras.
Another female loggerhead, named “Greggy Girl”,
was fitted with a satellite transmitter on the 1st of
August, after she had laid her eggs on a beach at Klein
Bonaire. With Greggy Girl‚ STCB achieved the goal of
deploying two transmitters on turtles in 2008.
Sea Turtle Conservation Bonaire exists to ensure the
protection and recovery of Bonaire’s sea turtle populations throughout their range. Founded in 1992, the
STCB is a Bonaire-based, non-governmental and nonprofit organization, part of the Wider Caribbean Sea
Turtle Conservation Network.
For more information visit www.bonaireturtles.org.
St. Lucia Marina Resort Joins Green Link
Discovery at Marigot Bay on the west coast of St.
Lucia has joined the Leading Green Link programme.
Through Leading Green Link, Discovery at Marigot
Bay now enables travellers to make their reservations
carbon-neutral when booking online at www.discoverystlucia.com. Each time they do so, The Leading
Hotels of the World, Ltd. makes a contribution to
Sustainable Travel International (STI), a non-profit
organisation dedicated to promoting responsible travel
through programmes that allow consumers to contrib-
LULLEY‘S
TACKLE SHOP
FISHING & DIVING GEAR
FRONT STREET
BEQUIA
WEST INDIES
SERVING FISHERMEN AND
YACHTSPEOPLE
SINCE 1950
YOUR #1 CHOICE IN FISHING GEAR
Penn & Diawa
Rigged & Unrigged
Snorkeling
Rods & Reels
Leaders
& Diving Gear
Mustad Hooks
Fresh Bait
Courtesy Flags
Anglers Lures
Foul Weather Gear
Collectable Knives
Wire, Floats, Nets, Twines, Ropes
DUTY FREE
TEL: (784) 458-3420 FAX: (784) 458-3797
EMAIL: [email protected]
Our stock, quality, price, know-how and fishing experience is unsurpassed
Visit us for all your needs
Bequia Marina
Open Monday to Saturday 8:00 a.m. to 4:00 p.m.
Look for the Big Blue Building and ask for Stan or Miguel!
Water, Diesel, Ice, Bottled Water and Dockage available.
The Yacht Club, Bequia Marina, Port Elizabeth, Bequia,
St. Vincent & The Grenadines
VHF 68, Telephone 784-457-3361
PAGE 41
ute to the well-being of the places they visit.
“By participating in this programme, we enable our
guests to help increase climate-friendly travel through
the donation of funds to offset the carbon emissions
generated during their entire stay at Discovery, via
CARIBBEAN COMPASS
are being tracked by satellite. In July, using this free
service, we had the opportunity to follow “Wiske”, a
female loggerhead turtle, as she swam from Bonaire
toward Nicaragua at a rate of between 80 and 100
kilometres a day.
Research Cruise Postponed
A cruise of the Grenadines aimed at completing a
marine habitat map of that area has been postponed
owing to the injury of three participants in a speedboat accident.
As reported in last month’s Compass, the
Grenadines “MarSIS” (Marine Resource and Spaceuse Information System) is an on-going research
project led by Kim Baldwin, a PhD student of the
Centre for Resource Management and Environmental
Studies of the University of West Indies together with
the Sustainable Grenadines Project based in Union
Island. Kim has been working with local marineresource users of the Grenadines to map the various
marine resources as well as identify areas of importance for conservation as well as for the livelihoods of
the Grenadine communities.
The researchers had intended to spend the month of
August aboard a catamaran from The Moorings,
exploring and mapping the little-known deeper areas
of the Grenada Bank by either scuba diving or using a
drop-camera to collect data.
Unfortunately, on the fourth day of the cruise, after
refilling gas and scuba tanks in Admiralty Bay, Bequia,
in preparation for data collection in Balliceau and
Battowia the next day, the SVG Fisheries Division
pirogue in which Kim and her colleagues Sophia
Punnett and Eustaces “Santa” Vincent were travelling
crashed into the rocks off Moonhole on their way back
to the catamaran anchored in Friendship Bay. All
three suffered injuries, which resulted in cancellation
of the August cruise.
All are recovering. Kim, whose shoulder was broken,
says, “The doctors say I need six to nine months before
they will allow me to get back on a boat and diving and
be able to use my arm in a physically demanding
capacity. I do want to reassure everyone that the
research will definitely continue and we are tentatively
planning for a June 2009 survey, since the lobster
surveys need to occur during closed season.”
For more information on the Sustainable Grenadines
Project visit http://cermes.cavehill.uwi.edu/susgrenadinesIndex.html.
SEPTEMBER 2008
Turtle tracks from 2003 and 2004. A Bonaire-based conservation group uses satellite technology to learn more
about our fellow voyagers
the Leading Green Initiative,” said Discovery’s
Manager, Carl Beviere. “And we are pleased to note
that our room rates have not been inflated to support
this programme, so there is no cost whatsoever to
our guests.”
Successfully launched last year, the Leading Green
initiative is an innovative carbon-offset effort designed
to enable and encourage guests to make conscious
decisions and contributions towards environmentally
friendly travel.
This is not the first time Discovery has undertaken
environmentally conscious initiatives. In July 2007,
the hotel launched the Caribbean’s first solar-powered
ferry, the Sunshine Express, which won an Islands
magazine Blue Award. In addition, all grey water is
cleaned and filtered and used for irrigation, nothing
goes into the waters of Marigot Bay. Discovery is working together with the rest of the local community to
renourish the sand on nearby Labas Beach, and to
stop future erosion by building protective reefs and
regulating boat activity.
For more information on the Leading Green Initiative
visit www.lhwgreen.com.
Your #1 Choice for Provisioning
in the Grenadines.
Fine Wine, Cheeses, Fresh Fruits, Vegetables
and Choice Meats
Monday-Saturday: 8am to 12pm & 3pm to 6pm
Sunday: 9am to 12pm
THE SCIENCE OF
MAKING YOGURT
by Devi Sharp
Making yogurt is not an art — it is a science. I make this yogurt every week aboard
Arctic Tern, and the cost is about 50 cents (US) per pint. Best of all, I always have
yogurt for breakfast and recipes.
I feel obliged to extol the virtues of yogurt, so here is my list: yogurt is high in
protein and calcium, low in calories, and has those wonderful bacteria that help our
gut stay healthy.
Select containers with tight fitting lids. I like the Ziploc brand plastic containers
with screw-on lids. Wash the containers and let them air dry or dry them with a
clean towel.
THE FOOD STORE
Corea’ s Mustique
Fax: (784) 456-5230
CARIBBEAN COMPASS
PAGE 42
Tel: (784) 488-8479
Above: A warm yacht engine makes a nifty yogurt incubator
SEPTEMBER 2008
Below: Or you can use an insulated bag to keep your culture happy
Dolly’s Answer
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
P
A
W
R
P
N
M
O
O
L
K
I
O
S
R
T
A
I
M
N
F
Y
9
L
I
N
N
A
E
U
S
Special word: LINNAEUS
D
S
T
G
L
R
N
T
T
A
D
I
A
G
E
A
E
O
A
I
M
M
In a saucepan, combine the appropriate quantities of water and powdered milk to
fit your container(s) and mix thoroughly. I usually use powdered skimmed milk, but
the few times I have made it with whole milk it did not taste much different. Instead
of powdered, you can use fresh or long-life milk, but you still must follow through
on heating it.
Heat the milk (with frequent stirring) in the saucepan to just near boiling (180°F).
Heating the milk kills any undesirable bacteria that might be present and also
changes the properties of the milk protein so that it gives the yogurt a firmer body
and texture. Use a plastic or Teflon spoon or stainless whisk to stir. (Avoid wooden
spoons because they tend to hold bacteria that might interfere with the bacteria in
the yogurt.)
Allow the milk to cool slightly. When it reaches 110°F to 115°F, add starter. Starter
can be yogurt that you have saved from your last homemade batch or a good quality, unflavored and unsweetened commercial yogurt. Add about a quarter of a Cup
of starter for every three Cups of milk. Mix well but gently. Do not incorporate too
much air. If too much air is mixed in, the starter culture will grow slowly.
Pour milk into clean container(s) and cover with lid(s). Incubate the filled containers at about 110°F. Do not stir the yogurt during this period. I put the containers in
a small, insulated “thermo” bag in the sun, or place the containers directly on Arctic
Tern’s main engine if it is hot.
Maintain the 110°F temperature until the milk coagulates with a firm custard-like
consistency (three to eight hours). Check by gently tilting the container, then refrigerate. It will keep for two to three weeks in the refrigerator.
I know that my incubation temperature is not exactly at 110°F, and while the
yogurt may not be perfect it is always good. Remember to use a thermometer and
clean utensils — that is the science part.
Devi is currently making yogurt aboard the sailing vessel Arctic Tern in Venezuela.
SERVING AT SEA BY SHIRLEY HALL
Star
Fruit
Star Chicken
1 chicken, cut into serving pieces
1/4 Cup olive oil
2 Tablespoons honey
1/4 Cup fresh limejuice
2 Tablespoons lime zest (grated lime peel)
1 large sweet onion, sliced paper thin
1 Tablespoon fresh ginger, minced
1/2 hot pepper, seeded and minced
salt to taste
4 star fruit, sliced in quarter-inch stars
1/2 Cup raw almonds (cashews or peanuts may
be substituted)
1 bunch chadon benne, chopped fine
Combine chicken, oil, honey, limejuice and zest,
onions, ginger, pepper and salt in a large bowl, preferably one with a tight cover. Cover and refrigerate
for a day or two, stirring occasionally. Put chicken
mixture in a baking dish and cover with the nuts.
Arrange star fruit slices over the top. Cover with foil
BEQUIA
Tel: (784) 458 3041
New Location at Gingerbread Café
3KLO5R[DQQHWZLFH*UHQDGDFKHIRI
WKH\HDUZHOFRPHDOOWR
H[SHULHQFHKRVSLWDOLW\DQG
DFFRPPRGDWLRQLQDWUXO\
VSHFWDFXODUDWPRVSKHUH
&RQWDFWXVIRURXUIUHHWD[LVHUYLFHIRUJURXSVRI
RUPRUH7\UHOO%D\%RJOHV+LOOVERURXJK%RJOHV
CARIBBEAN COMPASS
&RQWDFWXVRQ
&RQWDFWXVRQ
RU
RU
RU )RUPRUHLQIRUPDWLRQYLVLW
ZZZERJOHVURXQGKRXVHFRP
25(0$,/LQIR#ERJOHVURXQGKRXVHFRP
25(0$,/
SEPTEMBER 2008
Have you seen the yellow, waxy, multi-sided, Star
Trek-looking fruit in the market? West Indians call it
star fruit, five fingers, or carambola. There are two
varieties of star fruit, sour and sweet. The fruits with
narrow “fingers” or ribs are less sweet than the fruits
with thick fingers.
The fruit starts out green, and goes to yellow as it
ripens; it can be eaten in both stages. In Trinidad I
learned to make Five-Fingers Chow with the slightly
ripe fruit. The ripe fruit makes a delicious and refreshing juice, and in Grenada at Pappy’s in Concord I tried
tasty five-fingers wine. Ripe sweet five fingers are great
eaten just picked and washed and the green or slightly ripe ones make excellent chow. They can also be
stewed with cloves and raisins. Star fruit, cooked or
raw, are a great accompaniment for seafood. Sliced
crosswise into the five-pointed star shapes that give
the fruit one of its names, this is a pretty and tasty
addition to any fruit salad.
The star fruit is believed to have originated in Sri
Lanka or Ceylon and was cultivated for centuries in
Southeast Asia before Spanish explorers brought trees
to the Caribbean and the Americas.
1 teaspoon baking powder
1 teaspoon baking soda
1 teaspoon powdered ginger
1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1/4 Cup currants or raisins
Wash, de-seed and mince star fruit. Combine the
fruit, sugar, milk, and egg in a large bowl. In another
bowl mix the remaining ingredients. Slowly add the
dry ingredients to the fruit combination and mix until
all the flour is moist. Add a little extra flour if fruit is
very juicy. Don’t over-blend. Pour into greased bread
pans and bake at 350°F for 45 minutes.
* Increase amount of sugar if you have a sweet
tooth or if star fruit is not sweet.
** Use up to a half Cup more flour if fruit is
very juicy.
PAGE 43
Star fruit juice will clean brass and silver! It will also
remove rust stains from white clothes. West Indians
use the five-finger fruit widely for many medicinal purposes. The juice will help reduce a fever and quench
the associated thirst. Boiled fruit will relieve diarrhoea
or a hangover. A salve made by continuously boiling
the fruit to almost nothing is reportedly good for eye
infections. Eating the ripe fruit is said to reduce haemorrhoids. A poultice of crushed leaves will fight ringworm. The powdered seeds are said to have a sedative
effect and are useful in fighting children’s colic.
One average star fruit has about ten calories. The
fruit is high in carbohydrates, calcium, phosphorus,
Vitamin C, and amino acids.
Star Fruit Bread
4 medium star fruit
1/2 Cup sugar*
3/4 Cup milk
1 egg
1 Cup whole-wheat flour
1 Cup white bakers flour**
3/4 teaspoon salt
and bake at 375°F for about half an hour. Then
uncover and bake for another 20 minutes. Add chadon bene just before serving.
FOR THE FARMERS:
Growing a tree from seed is difficult since the seeds
become infertile within a few days after removing
them from the fruit, so have your potting soil ready!
Choose nice fat seeds to plant, water carefully, and
they should sprout in a week to ten days. Grafted
trees can also be purchased at garden shops or nurseries. A star fruit tree is perfect for a home garden as
they seldom grow more than 15 to 20 feet tall. If
planting more than one, keep them at least 20 feet
apart. Make certain the area you plant is well
drained, as standing water is this tree’s biggest
enemy. However, star fruit must be watered regularly during the dry season to produce a juicy crop.
Run a hose for a half an hour every week during a
dry spell. If necessary, spray the tree with a pesticide-miticide and foliar fertilizer once a month, and
sprinkle about a half-cup of blue 12-12-17-2 every
month around the base.
Stock Up
on the widest selection and the
best prices in Grenada at our two
conveniently located supermarkets.
Whether it’s canned goods, dairy
products, meat, fresh vegetables
or fruits, toiletries, household goods,
or a fine selection of liquor and wine,
The Food Fair has it all and a lot more.
Hubbard’s
JONAS BROWNE & HUBBARD (G’da.) Ltd.
The Carenage:
Monday - Thursday
8 am to 5:30 pm
Friday until 8:45 pm
Saturday until
1:00 pm
Tel: (473) 440-2588
Grand Anse:
Monday - Thursday
9 am to 5:30 pm
Friday & Saturday
until 7:00 pm
Tel: (473) 444-4573
CANDY IS DANDY…
by Ross Mavis
exotic arts + crafts
interior design
tel: 440-2310
SEPTEMBER 2008
rare +
CARIBBEAN COMPASS
PAGE 44
“You’ll catch more flies with sugar than you can with vinegar,”
was the advice Nana always would give when talking about dealing with people. And, you know, she was right. Most of us
respond to sweet talk better than to harsh or bitter comments.
Many of us like sweetness in our lives — and in our diets.
Very few people are born without a sweet tooth. The sweetness
of sugar is quite seducing. Many centuries ago, sugar was called
“white gold” due to its scarcity and expense at a time when only
the rich could afford the substance. The ancient Persians and
Arabians cultivated sugar in the 4th century B.C. and it was
some 500 years later that it became known to the Western World.
Rock-hard cakes or loaves of crystallized coarse sugar then
ranged in colour from off-white to light brown. If you were to use
any in your tea or coffee, it was necessary to chisel off a chunk
or grind it into a powder.
Today refined sugar is white and very pure. It is primarily made
from sugar cane and sugar beets. Many types of sugar can be
found in most of the foods we eat daily. Check the content labels
on the foods you buy at the supermarket. You’ll see regular sugar
(sucrose); fruit sugars (dextrose, fructose and levulose); milk sugar (lactose) and maltose (malt sugar).
I have both fond and painful memories of sugar in my childhood. A fond one involves penny candies. A favorite
was the small chocolate-covered bears called “teddies”. Under the chocolate exterior lurked hard, red, cinnamon
candy. Teddies would last almost forever in your mouth if you could discipline yourself to follow mother’s instructions and not crunch them. Two of these candies could be had for one penny, giving almost a morning’s worth of
sucking. Horehound nuggets, jaw-breakers and all-day suckers kept many kids out of their parents’ hair and out
of trouble for hours on end.
The pursuit of sugary treats also has less enjoyable flashbacks, like the time I ignored Mum’s advice to keep clear
of the pan of hot toffee she had left to cool on the counter. It was near-paralytic shock I experienced when my
inquisitive finger, sneaking over the counter edge, found its way into the pan of molten sugary lava. Less painful
but as vivid in my memory was when two childhood friends and I were caught stealing jelly powders from our
basement storeroom. It was easy to spot the guilty culprits, for our mouths and hands were bright yellow and
orange from fingers dipped into boxes of this sweet dessert mix. This must have been the inspiration for shoplifting dye markers!
young street st. georges
grenada
Jewelry, Wooden-Ware & Hammocks
Marine
Insurance
The insurance business has changed.
No longer can brokers talk of low rates.
Rather, the honest broker can only say,
“I’ll do my best to minimize your increase!”
There is good insurance, there is cheap
insurance, but there is no good cheap
insurance. You never know how good
your insurance is until you have a claim.
Then, if the claim is denied
or unsatisfactorily settled,
it is too late.
I have been in the insurance business
40 years, 36 with Lloyds, and my claims
settlement record cannot be beat.
Fax DM Street
Iolaire Enterprises (353) 28 - 33927
or e-mail: [email protected]
www.street-iolaire.com
Sugar does more than just sweeten our food. It helps preserve some items such as candied fruit and citrus peel.
It also stabilizes egg whites in meringue, gives a golden-brown colour to baked goods and helps make dough light
and tender.
What is sold in North America as “brown sugar” is not raw or unrefined sugar, as some people think. Molasses
is added to white sugar to produce either a light or dark brown product. In the Caribbean, raw or unrefined cane
sugar is widely available.
I believe everyone needs some sweetness in his or her life. If the only way you can get it is from sugar, then God
love you and we’ll pass the sugar. Sugar is not the white villain that it has been portrayed to be. (And don’t be
fooled into thinking that honey or maple sugar is lower in calories because of being a so-called natural product.)
Like other things, if used in moderation, sugar can be a simple but wonderful pleasure.
If you are looking for a fun way to spend a rainy afternoon with the kids below deck, why not make some candy?
Let kids help with the initial measuring out of ingredients and, of course, sampling the end results. Keep some
tasks for yourself. Hot and dangerous stovetop cooking, and melted sugar mixes that are akin to molten lava, must
be handled carefully by an adult.
Most candy making requires the use of a good candy thermometer. However, here’s an easy recipe that does not
need one.
Dark Chocolate Fudge
2 cups miniature marshmallows (or large marshmallows cut into small pieces)
1 pound (450 g) semi-sweet chocolate chips
11 oz (300 ml) tin sweetened condensed milk
1 1/2 teaspoons (7 ml) vanilla extract
Combine marshmallows, chocolate chips and condensed milk in a large saucepan and cook over low heat for
about 8 minutes, stirring often. When contents are melted and smooth, stir in vanilla and pour into a greased
8-inch (19 cm) square cake pan. Score lightly with a knife and cool until nicely firm. Cut into squares.
Remember, boiling syrup is extremely hot and very dangerous. Keep young children clear when boiling liquids
on the stove or working with boiling liquids in the galley.
m
u
r
o
F
’
rs
e
d
a
e
R
LTD
YA M A H A M A R I N E D I S T R I B U T O R
ENGINES
(DUTY FREE PRICES)
SPARES
SERVICE
MARINE
EQUIPMENT
Located CALLIAQUA, St. Vincent
opposite Howard’s Marine
TEL: (784) 457 1806 FAX: (784) 456 1364
P.O. Box 17, Kingstown
McIntyre Bros. Ltd.
TRUE BLUE, ST. GEORGE’S,
GRENADA W.I.
YAMAHA
Parts - Repairs - Service
Outboard Engines 2HP-250HP
Duty-Free Engines for Yachts
TOURS & CRUISES - CAR & JEEP RENTAL
PAGE 45
PHONE: (473) 444 3944/1555
FAX: (473) 444 2899
email: [email protected]
CARIBBEAN COMPASS
We asked Caribbean Marine Association President,
Keats Compton, who along with the Caribbean Customs
Law Enforcement Council announced eSeaClear in last
month’s Compass, for clarification, which follows.
CC
Dear Caribbean Compass,
I was visiting the Tobago Cays Marine Park in the St.
Vincent Grenadines on Saturday, July 5th. As I was
cruising around in the park, I saw a tour operator’s
large catamaran from St. Vincent with more than 50
guests onboard touring all over within the central part
of the TCMP boundaries before they came into shore at
Salt Whistle Bay, Mayreau.
What really got my attention when I arrived in Salt
Whistle Bay was the fact that this charter boat was
refusing to pay the park rangers the day-use fees for
coming in and using the park.
Upon further investigation, I realised that it was the
captain (who is also one of the tour company’s owners)
who was refusing to pay, as well as allowing several of
his crewmembers to laugh and carry on acting rude to
the two park rangers who were politely trying to do
their job.
Eventually after much ado, which involved yelling
and other rude behaviour from the crew of the tour
catamaran, as well as a long cell phone call to the
TCMP head office, the captain/owner refused to pay
their park fees on the grounds that they were not
snorkelling in the park and that there were
Vincentians onboard.
From my discussion with a guest that was on their
charter, there was a mix of both local Vincentians who
now live abroad and tourists aboard this Carnival
weekend party cruise. Also when I talked with the
rangers they stated that this was not the first time this
tour operator has refused to pay!
I think it is completely outrageous that one of the
largest tour operators in St. Vincent & the Grenadines
can profit off of the utilisation of the Tobago Cays
Marine Park and dare give grief to the park rangers by
refusing to pay the stated day use fees — as well as set
such a bad example to their guests, other tourists and
local tour operators alike.
I am not sure what the owner’s rationale is. Maybe it is
because he and some of his guests are Vincentian that he
doesn’t think they should have to pay, or maybe it was
the excuse that they didn’t snorkel on Horseshoe Reef?
—Continued on page 55
K P M A R IN E
SEPTEMBER 2008
Dear Compass,
WHEW: eSeaClear! (Caribbean Compass, August
2008.) Sounds like the Grenada online one-page clearance form meets APIS, although fortunately without
requirements and the timing restrictions of APIS. The
downside is that all the technological and process
issues are the same.
There are many cruising yachts and probably even
more bareboat charter yachts that do not have computers on board, and some of those who do have
computers do not have wireless capability. So, even if
an anchorage does have wireless internet (free wireless is scarce and many fee-based services are quite
costly, if used only to access eSeaClear), many yachts
will have to find an internet café at a cost of EC$5 to
EC$10 per visit. That doesn’t sound like much but it
adds up when you consider a visit for clearing in and
clearing out of each country. And what if the internet
goes down? Not an uncommon occurrence in many of
these islands.
Am I reading this correctly to understand that there
will be computers in the Customs offices for use by
yachtsmen to update their eSeaClear notification? In
the dusty commercial Customs offices of Hillsborough,
Carriacou, and Glanvilia (Prince Rupert Bay),
Dominica? And in the already crowded office at Rodney
Bay? It seems to me that allowing people to update
their notification at the Customs office will take even
longer than completing the paperwork by hand.
In the many years we have been clearing in and out
of these countries, it rarely takes more than five minutes to fill in the forms. This is a two-time occurrence
per visit (once upon entry, once when leaving) and is
not a big deal if the Customs and Immigration personnel are at their stations. The Grenada one-page form
does nothing to alleviate this problem. We usually
spend more time than that waiting in line for an available officer, either because there are others ahead of
us or because the officer is at lunch or watching
cricket on TV, or the office isn’t even open!
And what about the varying processes these countries use — different forms for all countries and even
different steps for clearing in and out within the
same country?
And when I clear out, how do I get from eSeaClear a
paper copy to take to my next port, especially if that
country is not yet online with eSeaClear and how do I
keep track of which ports are accepting eSeaClear
notification and which are not?
And what about a piece of paper to show
Customs or the Coast Guard, if they come around
checking papers?
I hope none of the OECS members spent any money
contributing to this system and installing equipment
because I doubt that many yachts will make use of it.
I don’t know anyone who uses the Grenada online onepage form — it’s just not worth the extra effort, particularly because it is designed for 8 x 14” paper,
which very few yachts carry on board. eSeaClear is no
different — of no “intrinsic” value to the yachtsman.
“Clear Customs faster and more efficiently so you can
start enjoying your visit sooner”? This is not apparent
to me in the description given. Most probably the
megayachts will use eSeaClear, and we all know that
the island chain is gearing up for what they believe will
be a huge influx of megayachts.
It seems to me that resources could have been better
spent in streamlining and standardizing the processes
already in place, rather than adding a technologically
elegant but useless-in-practice solution.
Sign me,
Concerned Long-Time Cruiser
Dear Compass,
It appears that our “Concerned Long-Time Cruiser”
may have misread the intent of the eSeaClear facility
(www.eSeaClear.com) that the CMA/CCLEC partnership is attempting to deliver to our valued yachting
customers, so we need to clarify the situation.
First and foremost, use of the system is voluntary
(i.e. completely optional), and doesn’t replace the
paper form, should cruisers prefer to use it.
St. Lucia is one of two pilot locations (BVI is the
other) designed to solicit feedback from users, which
will be incorporated into enhancements or improvements by the developers for product roll-out. This is
totally unlike APIS, which was imposed — or attempted to be — on the industry. We do not compare
eSeaClear to APIS, as the former is driven and owned
by Customs, the latter by the border control brigades!
Secondly, the use of the internet is designed to
facilitate voyage-data entry from whatever source chosen by cruisers, prior to departure — it has been
assumed that a significant number of yachtsmen are
able to access the internet from a land-based computer. Alternatively, computers will be available at
ports of arrival, and the document will be printed there
and then, with the copy retained by the captain, for
presentation at the next port, wherever that may be,
as happens now. Unlike the paper clearance, both
entry and departure details are entered at the same
time, on the same screen — a one-time occurrence,
not two, as alleged by our writer — surely this is time
saved! In filling the entry on-line, the problem of
Customs being out to lunch, or cricket or other diversion will not prevent the Customs from accessing the
data, should a cruiser use a cell-phone to alert the
Officer on his or her return.
Our writer also needs to think “data” as opposed to
“forms”. The individual countries can decide on what
shape a printed form should take, never mind what
appears on the screen, which will be the same at all
locations. Additionally, our cruisers only need to create a new voyage notification where crew data hasn’t
changed — you can’t use your carbon-paper clearance
once your return journey has been processed.
As more countries adopt eSeaClear, we will notify the
trade through the usual channels, including Compass.
Computer-based clearance is obligatory at the
port of Marin (Martinique), inside of the Customs
office, using an unfamiliar French keyboard. We
hope to persuade them to adopt eSeaClear, but
Martinicans coming to St. Lucia are able to use the
facility from the comfort of their homes, and are
thrilled at the prospect.
The OECS hasn’t spent any money on this, and the
reach of eSeaClear will ultimately spread beyond the
OECS countries. We sincerely hope that the concerns
expressed are not an argument for the exclusion of
computers from the yachting domain, which would
surely be a retrograde step.
More feedback is welcome.
Keats Compton, President
CMA
Read in Next Month’s Compass:
A Taste of Tasteful St. Kitts
Compass Fiction: Excerpts from a Caribbean Sailing Adventure
WHAT’S ON MY MIND
A Fool’s Paradise?
by Jim McConn
Cruisers Hike Peru
… and more!
PICK UP!
SEPTEMBER 2008
CARIBBEAN COMPASS
PAGE 46
Ahoy, Compass Readers! When in Dominica, pick up your free monthly copy
of the Caribbean Compass at any of these locations (advertisers in this issue
appear in bold):
Having logged over 30,000 miles in our 31-foot Southern Cross, the Spanish Stroll,
we have finally arrived in Paradise. Or have we?
Five years into a boat ride that appears to have evolved into a circumnavigation,
Barb and I are in the Caribbean. The word itself has always conjured up visions of
beautiful white beaches shaded by coconut trees on pristine little islands. With water
the color of a Bombay gin bottle, the soft sounds of steel drums and us lounging in
hammocks, it also seemed as far away as the moon.
A very peaceful but long 65-day passage from South Africa brought us to Tobago.
We’d had plenty of time to study the Doyle guide and were ready for the great food,
pan music and rum shacks.
ROSEAU AREA:
Anchorage Hotel
Dive Dominica
Evergreen Hotel
Fort Young Hotel
Garraway Hotel
Outdoor World
Connie Beach Bar on Mero Beach
Yacht Inn
Dominica Marine Center
Castaway Hotel
PORTSMOUTH AREA:
Big Papa’s Restaurant
Cobra Tours
Purple Turtle Beach Club/Restaurant
Sailorman’s Club Restaurant
Cabrits Dive Center
Although the McConns have only visited Tobago, Trinidad and Margarita so far —
a small portion (at the lower right-hand corner of this map) of the Eastern Caribbean
— their complaints are typical of those heard in other parts of the region
MERIDIAN PASSAGE
OF THE MOON
Making landfall at Scarborough, we checked in and spent a week cleaning up and
replenishing the Spanish Stroll. Scarborough was, as expected, a big town and a bit rough
around the edges, but nothing could have dampened our spirits at that time. When ready
to see more of the island and checking in with Customs, as instructed, we were surprised
to be told we would need to return and get permission before moving again.
SEPTEMBER & OCTOBER 2008
Crossing the channels between Caribbean islands with a favorable tide will make
your passage faster and more comfortable. The table below, courtesy Don Street,
author of Street’s Guides and compiler of Imray-Iolaire charts, which shows the time
of the meridian passage (or zenith) of the moon for this and next month, will help you
calculate the tides.
Water, Don explains, generally tries to run toward the moon. The tide starts running
to the east soon after moonrise, continues to run east until about an hour after the
moon reaches its zenith (see TIME below) and then runs westward. From just after the
moon’s setting to just after its nadir, the tide runs eastward; and from just after its
nadir to soon after its rising, the tide runs westward. Times given are local.
Note: the maximum tide is 3 or 4 days after the new and full moons.
For more information, see “Tides and Currents” on the back of all Imray Iolaire
charts. Fair tides!
September 2008
DATE TIME
1
1313 (new)
2
1357
3
1441
4
1527
5
1614
6
1703
7
1724
8
1845
9
1936
10
2026
11
2114
12
2201
13
2247
14
2333
15
0000 (full)
16
0019
17
0107
18
0157
19
0252
20
0350
21
22
23
24
25
26
27
28
29
30
0452
0554
0655
0753
0846
0936
1022
1107
1151
1234
October 2008
DATE TIME
1
1320
2
1407
3
1455
4
1545
5
1636
6
1727
7
1817
8
1905
9
1952
10
11
12
13
14
15
16
17
18
19
20
21
22
23
24
25
26
27
28
29
30
31
2038
2123
2209
2256
2347
0000 (full)
0041
0140
0243
0347
0449
0549
0643
0733
0820
0904
0947
1030
1115
1201 (new)
1249
1338
‘We pulled into Castara Bay… Continuing on through the night would be insane’
Okay, not having to bring the boat to Customs the second time, we could take the
bus or a cab. It would give us a chance to see the interior of the island! We pulled
the anchor and sailed the ten miles to Store Bay at the east end. The blaring rap
music from shore in place of the steel drums we’d so looked forward to was another
sign that things were not going to be as expected. No problem, we can’t expect people
to play the same music forever just in case we might drop by and want to hear it.
The local people, who on first impression didn’t seem very friendly, turned out to
be just a bit reserved. If we took the initiative by starting a conversation they were
not only friendly, but also quite helpful. Just the normal process of getting familiar.
We also became friends with several couples on boats.
Things were looking up until we returned to Scarborough by bus and requested
permission to sail to Charlottesville. We were asked how long it would take us.
Although located at the northeast corner of the island, only 22 miles away, we were
expecting a tough beat straight into the Trades. Having read in the Doyle guide about
the many beautiful bays along the way, with good anchorages and great food waiting
on shore, we planned to break it into short hops. Considering the time it takes to get
to know the people in a new place and that we had been issued a three-month cruising permit, I thought one month was reasonable but only asked for one week.
Our request was out of the question. The senior official said with disgust, “You just
want to stop and find bars to drink beer!” Stunned, we asked what a reasonable timeframe might be. He responded “one day”, adding that one stop of one to two hours
would be reasonable but that we would have to explain any delay on our arrival in
Charlottesville. We wouldn’t be able to visit any of the places we’d read about.
Back at the boat we learned that some of our new friends had checked out the same
day but with a different official and in the absence of the “big shot” were given five days
to make the same trip. Others intended to “just do it anyway”. We were determined to
reach Charlottesville, but as guests in their country we would follow the “rules”.
Leaving at the same time as one of the other boats, we found making headway as
difficult as expected. We continued on as they turned into Courland Bay where the
anchorage and restaurants of Plymouth awaited them. Hours later and only a few
miles up the coast we pulled into Castara Bay. We’d had it. Continuing on through
the night would be insane. After sleeping, but without getting off the boat, we continued on in the morning.
CREW VACANCIES!
email: [email protected]
TradeWinds Cruise Club operate a fleet of catamarans across
six destinations in the Caribbean.
We are the fastest growing charter company,
operating TERM CHARTERS, all inclusive, 7 days.
We are looking for crew, mainly teams in the form of a Captain and a Chef/Hostess.
We prefer couples that are married OR have been living together for at least a year.
The nature of the job is such that the better the understanding and teamwork
between Captain and Chef the more successful your charters will be.
Requirements: Captain with a Skipper’s licence.
Chef/Hostess with a basic understanding of cooking.
Dive master/ instructor for either the Captain and/or Chef is a plus.
We offer full training onsite in the Caribbean.
This is a FUN job with great earning potential. If you are willing to work hard and
have a positive disposition to life this could be your DREAM job.
Anyone with an interest is welcome to apply.
If you would like more information about this job or send your CV to us, please
use this email address:
[email protected]
or by mail to: Bequia Marina, P.O.Box 194BQ, Port Elizabeth,
Bequia, St Vincent & the Grenadines
Tel. St Vincent +784 457 3407
Tel. St Maarten +599 5510550
At Porlamar, yachts flew their flags at half-mast after a cruiser succumbed to injuries
inflicted by a speeding local boat
Really look forward to
reading Compass. Thanks
for producing such an
informative and
interesting read!
Steve Hunt
Antigua
Join our growing list of on-line subscribers!
12 issues US$29.95, 24 issues US$53.95
Same price, same content
— immediate delivery!
☛ REMEMBER
to tell our advertisers you
saw their ad in Compass!
PAGE 47
Arriving in Charlottesville we pumped up the dinghy and headed for shore to check
in. With chips on all four shoulders we were prepared for the worst. The friendly welcome we received from the officials was nearly as unexpected as the negative one at
Scarborough. The local people were charming, although at times I felt as though I must
have FREE BEER written on my forehead! We made many friends during our two-week
stay. Our mask carved from a calabash by Maurice and our CD of songs played and
sung by Squeezy are two new treasured souvenirs added to our collection.
Continuing on to Trinidad we once again followed instructions, sailing past all the
beautiful bays along the north shore of Tobago.
Arriving in Chaguaramas and dropping the hook among at least a hundred boats
already at anchor, we could not believe the recklessness of the local skiffs. Launched
one after another from a huge dry-storage facility, they would roar through the
anchorage at full speed. These were not only the local fishermen but also expensive
boats with big outboard motors and whole families on board. As the boats in the
anchorage were continuously rocked we wondered where the authorities could be.
Were there no laws? When the Coast Guard finally arrived it was in grand style. Half
a dozen of them in an open boat with THREE 200-horsepower outboard motors!
Roaring full speed through the anchorage they passed our boat, knocking us on our
beam ends and completely swamping our dinghy. They would do this every couple
of days when coming in for fuel. I must admit this insane behavior was infectious
and I was soon speeding around in our dinghy as fast as the little eight-horsepower
outboard would push us, and wishing we had a nine-point-eight.
We quickly learned that Chaguaramas is a massive boatyard/storage facility. Just
south of the hurricane zone, hundreds of yachts are hauled there annually to sit out
the dangerous season. When the owners return five or six months later, their boats
are all polished or painted and ready to go. Although not a good cruising destination,
every service was available so we decided to take advantage and have some upholstery and canvas work done. No bargain, but the work was done well and very
quickly. Hauling the boat out of the water, we escaped the speeding skiffs and were
able to polish the oil sludge from the hull sides. Our new cruiser friends from Tobago
were there and we did manage to have a good time.
As soon as the boat went back in the water we were on our way. After two months
in Tobago and Trinidad our nerves were shot. We couldn’t wait to get to Isla
Margarita, Venezuela. Once again reading the Doyle guide, it sounded wonderful and
with a name like “Margarita” we thought it had to be good.
In Trinidad we’d been continuously warned of crime. We were advised to stay at least
30 miles offshore when traveling to avoid pirates. It seemed a bit paranoid but this longer route would take us by Los Testigos islands. Like most other boats, we sailed overnight with our lights off and radar on. In Los Testigos, we relaxed for the allowed two
days. The officials were very friendly and we had fun with our horrible Spanish.
Arriving in Isla Margarita, we joined another hundred boats already at anchor off
the large city of Porlamar. Our daughter and son-in-law planned to fly in and spend
a week with us, and it looked like the perfect place. We were so glad they hadn’t come
to Trinidad as originally planned.
Compass On-Line • Advertisers’ Directory • Check It Out… Tell Your Friends!
CARIBBEAN COMPASS
SEPTEMBER 2008
We’re on the Web!
Caribbean Compass
PAGE 48
CARIBBEAN COMPASS
SEPTEMBER 2008
Once again, though, we were shocked as the local boats started roaring at full
speed through the anchorage. The skiffs were more traditional and made of wood,
but they were going just as fast and coming even closer than those in Trinidad.
The morning of our third day at Isla Margarita we found our outboard motor had
been stolen from our dinghy. Having been warned, we’d locked both the dinghy and
motor to the yacht’s stern rail. The lock had been cut. Not satisfied with our motor,
they had also taken our oars, leaving us with no way to reach shore.
Calling a more locally experienced acquaintance on the VHF radio for advice on
how to contact the police triggered an exchange between the long-timers in the
anchorage. The gist? One, it was our fault our lock had been cut and our motor
stolen because we hadn’t lifted the dinghy out of the water, and two, we could report
it to the police but there was “zero chance” of
our getting it back.
The topic suddenly changed: a cruising couple in their dinghy had just been run down by
one of the speeding local boats. He (the cruiser)
was killed. The following day as all the yachts
lowered their flags to half mast, dozens of local
skiffs, rather than slowing down a bit, terrorized the anchorage. Charging, often two or
three at once, full speed at a yacht they would
turn only at the last second missing by inches.
They were delighted if they could throw water
into our dinghies and some made a sport of
trying to reach out and touch them as they
sped by. This went on from morning till night
as the operators grew more daring (intoxicated?) and the police boat sat tied to the dock,
never moving.
Still dealing with our relatively petty problems, a fellow cruiser generously offered to loan
us a pair of oars and we cautiously headed for
shore. Halfway in, we realized the thieves had
also taken our shoes. With bare feet we found the police and reported our theft. Next
we contacted our daughter and, in spite of months of planning, told her not to come
to Isla Margarita.
We were told that the day of terror had been a holiday and the local people always go
crazy on holidays. What special day had stirred up so much insanity? Children’s Day!
To our dismay we have found that virtually everyone here has been a victim. One
couple we met had gone to shore for a pot-luck. Returning to their boat, they found
their liferaft and fenders were missing. The nice guy who brought us the oars had
recently been pistol-whipped, tied up and then had the gun held to his head as his
boat was ransacked. Outboard motor season is open year round.
The attitudes held and comments made by many of the cruisers here are also disturbing. We are shocked by the tendency of some cruisers to blame the victims:
thieves cut our lock and stole our property and it’s our fault because we failed to
suspend it from the mast top. Come on, this thinking is as archaic as blaming the
woman for her rape because of the clothes she was wearing.
Most yachts travel in tandem with lights off while staying far from shore. Making
landfall they anchor in large groups, everyone trying to get in the center, then stow
all loose gear below and lift their dinghies out of the water before locking themselves
in for the night. Their slogan? “Lift It and Lock It or Lose It”. Then they tell us “it’s
this way everywhere”.
In the past five years we have visited 20 countries. To our knowledge, it’s not this
way anywhere else. Every place else we’ve visited, cruisers — even singlehanders,
including females — roam freely. When cruisers lift their dinghies it’s usually to keep
the bottom clean. Many sleep in their cockpits under the stars.
Our best defense is our windlass. Fortunately, we cruisers have the option of taking our homes and money and leaving. The world is full of really great places.
Editor’s note: Although Jim and Barb have admittedly only visited three out of the
hundreds of islands in the Caribbean, the unwelcoming attitude of a few Customs
officials, boats speeding in crowded anchorages, and dinghy theft are three perennial
complaints about Caribbean cruising. We’ve asked the Caribbean Safety & Security
Net and the Yacht Services Association of Trinidad & Tobago (YSATT) to comment.
Their responses follow:
Dear Compass,
There have been eight crime reports from yachts in Porlamar since the beginning
of this year and, while that looks like a crime spree, the increase is due more to
cruisers willing to report incidents to the Security Net than a crime spree itself.
For whatever reason, there has been extreme reluctance among those who spend
time in Porlamar to get the word out — they believe it tarnishes the reputation of
Margarita. However, I have been told many times by many people who have been to
Porlamar that what is reported to the Security Net is “just the tip of the iceberg”.
They do, however, cover the “lock it and lift it or lose it” on the VHF net on a regular
basis. (Spanish Water, Curaçao, is another anchorage where one must lift the dinghy
out of the water in addition to locking up.)
Since the Security Net began, Porlamar has had more reports than any other
single anchorage, in spite of the reluctance of some cruisers to report. While one
may attribute these large numbers to a greater number of visiting yachts (i.e. more
“yacht days” than any other anchorage), if that logic were valid, we would see an
increase in reports for the south coast of Grenada, especially during hurricane
season, as well as an increase from Rodney Bay, St. Lucia, particularly during the
ARC arrival. While those two locations do see some increase, it is in no way proportionate to what has been the ongoing and consistent case in Porlamar for the
past 11 years.
With regard to the speeding local boats both in Porlamar and in Chaguaramas, one
should also add Rodney Bay to that list, as well as include the tourists on jet skis.
The tragic death of the man in Porlamar (he wasn’t killed on impact, but died of
injuries while on the operating table) was an accident waiting to happen. Every weekend the Porlamar anchorage becomes a racetrack for local teenagers, apparently in
their fathers’ boats. There have been injuries in Chaguaramas due to speeding local
boats but thankfully no deaths — yet.
The authorities in St. Lucia have been ignoring the high-speed watercraft problem
for years. Our yacht was hit last year in Rodney Bay by an out-of-control jet-ski.
Unfortunately, we were only one of several who were hit this past season. A friend of
ours narrowly escaped being run over by a jet-ski while cleaning his anchor rode.
There have already been injuries and hospital visits and stitches to close wounds.
Do we need to wait for a death to make an issue of it?
There has been little done by local authorities to deal with these problems. The
Porlamar police put a night patrol boat in the water after the liferaft was stolen, but
reports coming back to me indicate it was very conspicuous for three or four days
and then no longer seen. As far as the death of the cruiser is concerned, there is
apparently a continuing investigation but that is targeted to the specific incident, not
speeding boats in general.
Until local authorities take responsibility for criminal activity and dangerous
behavior affecting the tourists who visit their anchorages, these sorts of incidents are
going to continue, and may well escalate, as evidenced by the increase in speeding
in Porlamar during the several days following the incident.
Melodye Pompa
S/Y Second Millennium
for the Caribbean Safety and Security Net
SSB 8104.0 at 1215 UTC
www.safetyandsecuritynet.com
Dear Compass,
YSATT knows only too well the situation with the boats speeding in Chaguaramas
Bay and we continue to alert the relevant authorities whenever it is brought to our
attention. Unfortunately, there are no laws pertaining directly to the leisure marine
industry and specifically to “no wake” zones. The leisure marine industry, which
includes yachting, currently gets lumped under “Shipping.” With regard to the problems that this specific cruiser had with Customs in Tobago, we did contact the
Communications Unit of Customs & Excise and they have forwarded this response:
“The Customs and Excise Division is currently investigating allegations concerning
the negative attitudes of certain Customs Officers highlighted in the letters of complaint. The Division has also embarked on a Customer Service training programme
as we seek to improve the overall service of the Division. The Customs and Excise
Division remains committed to facilitating legitimate trade to support the economic
growth and development of Trinidad and Tobago.”
Regards,
Gina Hatt-Carvalho, Manager
Yacht Services Association of Trinidad & Tobago
ALL ASHORE…
An Encounter in
an E-Mail Café
in Venezuela
by Bernie Katchor
44’ 1982 Ta Chiao CT
$89,900
33’ 1973 Pearson 10M Sloop,
$33,500
Sail
37’
40’
40’
43’
2001
1986
1987
1995
Bavaria Sloop, 3 strms, Yanmar diesel
Hunter Legend roomy, aft cockpit
O’Day Sloop, Westerbeke, 2 strms
Hunter 430, stepped transom, 2 strms
$ 79,500
$ 69,000
$ 60,000
$119,000
14’
31’
32’
38’
2006
1999
1996
1999
Aquascan Jetboat, 160HP Yamaha
Sea Ray Sundancer, new engines, 2005
Carver 325, twin crusaders great condition
Sea Ray Sundancer, mercruisers, 18 kts,
Power
$ 34,900
$ 79,900
$ 99,000
$167,000
Call, fax or visit our website for a complete list of boats for sale
www.stthomasyachts.com
Halberg Rassy 53 2004
Full Option - Superb
Guadeloupe 700 000 €
Amel 54 2007 Like New
Amel Super Maramu 53 1998
Alubat Ovni 435 2006
Sun Magic 44 1989
Lagoon 410 2004
Lagoon 410 1999
Graal 42 1990
Tobago 35 1996
PRIVILEGE 42 - 1995
4 Cabins - Good Condition
Martinique 165 000 €
MONOHULL
St Maarten
Florida
Martinique
Martinique
CATAMARANS
Martinique
Martinique
Martinique
Martinique
849 000 €
339 000 US $
299 000 €
98 000 €
260
165
135
127
000
000
000
000
€
€
€
€
PAGE 49
Wow! What an e-mail! And one on a similar vein is waiting for us every time we find
a café to view e-mails, at whatever port we sail into.
Our sailing travels are rewarding, peaceful, exhilarating and enjoyable, as well as exasperating. Is that not what sailing is about? Surely, if you want things to be like they are
at home you must stay there and patiently wait to die, fiddling your time away.
Sailing gives us sights and experiences to wonder at, be it deserted islands or magnificent snow-capped mountains that can be seen from our sailboat. There are wonderful sailing canoes hewn from a tree, or dilapidated concrete fishing boats with a
tribe of marineros grinning as they hand over lobster. Then there are leaping dolphin
at play and the green flash at sunset. Off the sailboat for a day, we travel on old
buses and hang onto trucks; we even travel on donkeys and most often on foot to
see the sights unavailable from the boat. Racing up a dirt track with 350 switchbacks to see spectacular mountain views and colourfully dressed indigenous peoples
working or playing in the fields was one unforgettable land experience.
All these are experiences we never believed we would actually have, and we pinch
ourselves every time we sail into a new experience to ensure it is really happening
and we have not ascended to wherever it is old Australians go. And perhaps best of
all, the people we meet are curious about us and many look upon us with the reverence people in these “dangerous” lands give elders.
“Look what my mum wrote. Oh, Christ!” The desperate cry comes from a teenager
reading her e-mails at a computer nearby. It startles us out of our concentration on
composing a delicate but firm reply to our worrying babies of 35 and 40 years old.
She begins to read aloud and other kids gather to see if this mum is as paranoid
as theirs. “My child, you are too much worry and your father says come home immediately as your money must have run out and it is so dangerous over there, you do
not realize how dangerous...” Here the reader stopped as everyone was laughing.
“Come over here,” I cried as I joined the merriment. “Read what my children say.”
One came and read aloud our latest e-mail. After the laughter died and the amazement — no, the respect — expressed about the fact that we had been traveling for
15 years, others read out their similar e-mails.
After laughing at the many e-mails from loved ones, we all abandoned the café and
headed off together for a drink. Seated in a little Venezuelan beer house with our
six-cent home-brewed beers, we continued laughing about the reaction of people left
behind to our collective adventure. I summed it up after about the third beer: “These
people at home feel safe at home, saying that the evil you know is better than the
one you do not.”
As our grand, one-dollar feast arrived, many questions came from the dozen kids,
aged from 17 to 27, gathered at our long table. One asked our opinion: “What can I
tell my parents? I am taking a job here for a year at ten US dollars per week. They
cannot understand why, and tell me if I really loved them I would come home and
get a ‘real’ job.”
Others had similar problems with doting parents. After many such conversations,
all of which were followed by laughter and comments, one child turned to me: “You’re
old — tell us what to say to old parents like you that worry so much they actually
spoil our travel enjoyment.”
Tel: (340) 779-1660
Fax: (340) 779-2779
[email protected]
CARIBBEAN COMPASS
You have been gone
for 15 years now.
Come home
Compass Point Marina, 6300 Est. Frydenhoj, Suite 28,
St. Thomas, U.S.V.I. 00802
SEPTEMBER 2008
Here Yvonne and I are, two ancient gringos. We have driven our dinghy ashore and
locked it to the dock with a chain that goes through the outboard and gas tank, and
then into a large padlock. “Everyone is a thief in Venezuela,” everyone tells us. (We
wonder if the people who tell us this are thieves themselves.) We march to an internet café whose location is explained to Yvonne, who actually understands Spanish.
(After seven years in Spanish-speaking countries I speak seven Spanish words, but
I know the essential hand motions.)
Spanish keyboards are arranged differently, but in our notebook we have written
how to get an @ sign and other essentials that are necessary to do e-mail in
Venezuela. At the “all computers full but only one dollar an hour” internet café, many
of the youngsters around us seemed to be chatting in English. We acknowledged
them, then concentrated on our e-mails pouring in.
Our children tell us in the e-mails we just opened, “You are in a dangerous country. You are far too old for this stupidity. You will get diarrhoea, cysts in your liver,
robbed, raped or even killed. Get out now! All your sensible friends are rocking in
chairs, walking dogs, reading newspapers, and doing that which is the maximum
any person of your age should do. Especially note: all your friends delight in babysitting and are there to wipe noses and change diapers of grandchildren. What is
wrong with you?”
“Did you know the Australian government, who are much wiser than you two are,
actually forbids Australians travel to where you are right now? Why, they may even
arrest you there and then you can never come home. After all, you have been gone
for 15 years now. Come home. I speak for the whole family; we have discussed the
matter at length. Your loving daughter.”
ST. THOMAS YACHT SALES
PAGE 50
CARIBBEAN COMPASS
SEPTEMBER 2008
“Cheeky bastard,” I reply, “I am only 67 years young!”
“Wow, my father is 41,” one said. Another’s father was 53 and a third’s 50 or
thereabouts, as far as he could remember. “How come you are so old and travel?”
“Why shouldn’t I travel?” was my reply. “Now, what to tell your parents? Tell them
about all the wonderful friends from all nations you travel with, to assure them you
are safe with this crowd. Tell them a friend has a special pump to remove all matter
from drinking water so you can never get cysts or diarrhoea. Tell them all sorts of
lies to make them feel better, because they really believe you are in danger.
Newspapers only tell of the violence in Venezuela, not about the wonderful town and
beaches where we now are — 500 miles from Caracas. Always rebut their examples
of how endangered you are. Then, and this is important, invite them to come and
travel with you, but as you travel.”
“No! No!” they cried in unison, “Our parents would spoil our travels.” “Mine would
make me shower every day,” one young boy ventured.
“Don’t worry, people who write the sort of amazing e-mails that we have just read
will never travel as we do,” I told them, “so you are safe when you invite them to
‘rough it’. They will always have something that, for the moment (and forever I might
add), will prevent them from joining you. So be brave, and insist they come on over
to see how wonderful and safe it is. Most of them will never come.
“Even if they do, they may do a day tour at Angel Falls and then cross Venezuela
off their list, becoming an authority on Venezuela after returning home. We all know
there are better, more peaceful waterfalls where you can be alone to wonder and not
crowded in with complaining tourists. We, too, all know of trails and islands where
there is nothing — and that is the beauty of it all.
“Never fear. Really insist your parents come. I guarantee they will not come to
travel as you do,” I concluded, lifting my home-brew beer high and calling, “Salud.”
Yvonne added, “But if on the off chance they do arrive — having agreed to travel
as you do, on your terms, with no complaints — you will all really learn to respect
and not ridicule each other, as you and your parents do at this moment.”
A long time ago, Yvonne and I went to Africa. Her parents, who were as old as we
are now, showed an interest. We wrote a list of conditions and they agreed. Yvonne’s
mother, at 93 years, still talks about that trip. Twenty-three hours on a bus with a
box of chickens on her lap, having to get off the bus and pee alongside everybody
else, climbing Kilimanjaro — new experiences she would never had moving from one
five-star hotel to another. Now Yvonne’s mother understands more than our children
do why we travel as we do. How is that for good advice?
There was a silence as all this sunk in.
“Fifteen years… amazing,” one young traveler murmured, “I have been gone for two
months and I thought that a long time to travel. I was starting to feel obligated to go
home to do ‘real’ stuff, even though with the little I have spent so far I could continue for another six months.”
“The only advantage of being old,” I continued, enjoying myself, “is that you have
time. But this is your time and it is yours to spend how you want to spend it, not
how others feel you must.”
“But they get so upset and are so worried; it makes me so sad. How would you feel
if your parents said that you obviously must really hate them to want to remain in
South America? I do not hate my parents.” The young girl was emotional and wiped
tears from her eyes. “But I do not want to go home yet,” she added as she looked to
us for an answer.
“Write your parents,” I suggested, “challenging them for saying you must hate
them — that’s an absurd statement. Tell them you have not finished your travels
and if you came home you could not afford to return to complete your South
American journey. Then say you do miss them very much and if they would buy you
a 14-day return fare you would love to come to visit. (Do not get a longer timed fare
if you really want to continue travelling.) And give them an alternative, for example,
that if your mother came here you would gladly spend a week or so at a dreadful
beach resort just to be with her. Otherwise it is travel on your terms. How does that
sound?” I concluded.
“When my head clears, I’ll e-mail my mother,” she said.
“So will I,” a couple of others agreed.
The six-cent beers were going down fast, lubricating my thoughts. “We would love
all your e-mail addresses and will give you ours. We send a newsletter out every once
in a while. And let us know when you change your e-mail address — you youngsters
change e-mails more often than you change your underpants. We really want to hear
from you in 20 years time to see how you are handling your kids. We’ll be 87 by then,
but we’ll still want to know.
“It’s time for us oldies to find our dinghy and return to our beloved home and hit
the sack. We have a young guy calling in his canoe at six tomorrow morning to take
us bird watching. We will bid you all goodnight and we hope we have helped you.
Above all, love your parents for what they are. It is harder to change the older you
get. Look at us. We will still be travelling at 80, I bet, but will you all? Goodnight and
good luck.”
Even though our bones creak too much, the young people we meet on our travels
keep us young in thought and are an inspiration. Travel really is the people you
meet, although the scenery isn’t too bad either.
DON’T
LEAVE PORT
WITHOUT IT
Caribbean Compass Market Place
CARRIACOU REAL ESTATE
TechNick Ltd.
Land and houses for sale
For full details see our website:
www.islandvillas.com
or contact Carolyn Alexander at
Engineering, fabrication and
welding. Fabrication and repair of
stainless steel and aluminium items.
Down Island Ltd
Tel: (473) 443 8182 Fax: (473) 443 8290
Nick Williams, Manager
Tel: (473) 536-1560/435-7887
S.I.M.S. Boatyard, True Blue, Grenada
[email protected]
We also handle Villa Rentals &
Property Management on Carriacou
MID ATLANTIC
YACHT SERVICES
PT-9900-144 HORTA / FAIAL, AZORES
TEL +351 292 391616
FAX +351 292 391656
[email protected]
www.midatlanticyachtservices.com
Tel: 767-448-2705 Fax: 767-448-7701
Dockmaster Tel: 767-275-2851 VHF: 16
[email protected]
www.dominicamarinecenter.com
The Dominica Marine Center is the
home of the Dominica Yacht Club
and your center for:
• Yacht Mooring Anchorage • Grocery Store & Provisioning
• Bakery (Sukie’s Bread Company) • Water at dock • Fuel
(Unleaded / Diesel) • Ice • Yacht Chandlery agents - Budget
Marine /Sea Choice Products Mercury Marine / Yanmar Marine
• LP Gas (propane) refills • Showers & Toilets (WC) • Garbage
Disposal • Security • Telephone & Fax • Mobile Phone Rental /
SIM Top Up • Laundry WiFi Internet • Beach Bar • Nearby
Restaurants • Taxi & Tour Operators • Whale Watching & Sport
Fishing • Light Engine and Boat Repair • Customs / Immigration
Clearance Information • Visa / Master Card accepted
Caribbean
Caribb
bbbe
b e Woods
bean
Woo ods
W
SAILMAKING, RIGGING, ELECTRONICS
VHF CH68
Phone (784) 458-3458
TRANSCARAIBES 2009
Guadeloupe
to Cuba
PORTHOLE RESTAURANT & BAR
& Shoreline Mini-Market
We serve breakfast,
lunch and dinner
Cruising Rally
Grenada Marine • Spice Island Marine
Tel/Fax (473) 439-4495
[email protected]
www.transcaraibes.com
Tel: + 590 (0) 690 494 590
A friendly atmosphere where you can sit and meet people.
Admiralty Bay, Bequia
Noelina & Lennox Taylor welcome you!
Shipchandler, Artimer
Le Marin, Martinique
[email protected]
Tel: (0) 596 71 41 61 Fax: (0) 596 71 77
continued on next page
PAGE 51
Bequia, St. Vincent
Phone: 1 (784) 457-3000
[email protected]
CARIBBEAN COMPASS
TEA K & HARDWOOD
MARINE PLY
FINISHING PRODUCTS
UNIQUE IN DOMINICA
Roseau & Portsmouth
SEPTEMBER 2008
Providing all vital services to
Trans-Atlantic Yachts!
Incl. Chandlery, Charts, Pilots, Rigging
EU-VAT (14%) importation
Duty free fuel (+10.000lt)
FLAGSWINDCARTEPDF
#ONSUMABLESWINDCARTEPDF
S
H
I
P
C
H
A
N
D
L
E
R
LE MARIN, MARTINIQUE • GRENADA
www.caraibe-greement.fr [email protected]
SEPTEMBER 2008
CARIBBEAN COMPASS
PAGE 52
R
I
G
G
I
N
G
Phone: +(596) 596 74 8033 Cell: (596) 696 27 66 05
Voiles Assistance
Didier and Maria
LE MARIN/MARTINIQUE
Sails & Canvas (repairs & fabrication)
located at Carenantilles dockyard
Open Monday to Friday 8-12am 2-6pm
Saturday by appointment
tel/fax: (596) 596 74 88 32
CIRExpress
COURIER SERVICES
St. Maarten/ St. Martin, collect
and deliver door to door
Packages Pick – up call:
+ (599) 553-3850 / + (590) 690-222473
Int. 001-3057042314
Independent Boatyard, St. Thomas, VI
340-774-3175 Office • 340-513-3147 Cell
[email protected] [email protected]
www.maritimeyachtsales.com
International Yacht Broker
Bateaux Neufs et Occasion
Représentant JEANNEAU, LAGOON, Fountaine PAJOT
Port de plaisance, 97 290 Le MARIN, Martinique, FWI
Tél: + 596 (0)596 74 74 37 Cell: + 596 (0)696 29 71 14
www.petit-breton-antilles.fr
[email protected]
continued on next page
Marine Distributors
www.IslandWaterWorld.com
[email protected]
St Thomas, St Maarten,
St Lucia, Grenada
P: 599-544-5310 F: 599-544-3299
SEPTEMBER 2008
THIS COULD BE
CARIBBEAN COMPASS
YOUR
MARKET PLACE AD
Book it now:
[email protected]
or contact your local island agent
PAGE 53
WILFRED DEDERER
Bequia, Admiralty Bay
CLASSIFIEDS
www.caribtrace.com
BOATS FOR SALE
URGENT SALE - VENUS 46, 1984
KETCH fiberglass, gc, new
engine, very well equipped,
excellent live aboard and
cruiser. Price reduced from
US$199,000 to US$169,000 ONO
for a fast sale. Lying St Lucia. For
more info and pictures please
e-mail [email protected] or
phone +596696907429.
1975 GERMAN FRERS 39 FT,
2 sets racing sails, US 61.000
St.Lucia duty paid. Other
boats for sale:
1981
Cape
Dory
30,
US 39.000, St.Lucia duty paid,
2002 Oceanis 36, 2 cabin,
US 94.000,
1975 German Frers 39ft, 2
sets racing sails, US 61.000
St.Lucia duty paid,
2000 Dehler 41CR, 3 cabin,
US 255.000,
2001 Beneteau 50, 3 cabin,
US 199.000,
2000 Catana 471, 4 cabin,
460.000 Euros,
1994 Lagoon 47, 4 cabin,
US 259.000,
Tel (758) 452-8531
E-mail [email protected]
SEPTEMBER 2008
CARIBBEAN COMPASS
PAGE 54
1986 Beneteau 51 Nice condition, plenty of new
upgrades, ready to sail,
located Palm Island, SVG.
Info on www.artandsea.com.
Tel: (784) 458-8829 E-mail:
[email protected]
56ft MIKADO KETCH 1975
Perkins 106hp Interior/exterior refit Nov. ‘07, 4 dbl cabins,
good sails, lying in Martinique
145,000
Euros
E-mail
[email protected]
LAGOON 380 - 2003 Owner
sells upgraded excellent condition, 4 double cabin /2bath.
Low time Yanmar. Solar +
Wind generator + large battery bank. Must see in
Guadeloupe. Call and we’ll
send you a private aircraft to
come see the boat E-mail:
[email protected]
170.000 £. Tel (767) 4404403.
FAMOUS POTATOES 2005
Admiral 38 Catamaran. For
Sale. You can follow
her adventure now at
web.mac.com/famouspotatoes2
DONZI 32ZF, DEC. 2007
Donzi 32ZF, Dec. 2007, like
new, used only 6 months,
stored on boat lift, located
in St. Maarten. Open center
console with open bow,
custom made benches,
seats for 12, incl. snorkeling-,
floating- and fishing gear, 2x
Verado 250 hp, max speed
55 mph, cruising speed
30-35 mph, 147 hours. For
immediate sale US 125.000
ERICSON 38 Sailboat, good
hull, good rig and sails,
good engine. Needs interior
work. Lying Tortola, BVI
US$15,000 OBO
Tel (284) 540-1325
42' POST SPORTSFISH
(2) 671 Detroit Diesel Engines
Gen. Set, MANY extras.
$100,000 US or Best Offer
Barbados (246) 258-1052 /
(246) 230-3515
BOATS FOR SALE IN TRINIDAD
Tel
(868)
739-6449
www.crackajacksailing.net
MISC. FOR SALE
32' TAHITIANA STEEL HULL,
junk rigged schooner in
Colon, Panama. GPS, EPIRB,
liferaft, 40hp BMC diesel,
wind-vane
self-steering,
propane cooker and much
more... US$5,000 OBO.
[email protected]
26’
WOODEN
GAFF
CUTTER,2006 An award winning classic design by Mark
Smaalders.Traditional carvel
hull - mahogany on pine.
New monitor windvane, SS
6mm anchor chain, 3
anchors. All gear less than 2
years old!Cozy cream painted/varnished mahogany
interior.Unique little yacht
with a humble price tag!
Lying St.Maarten. US$70K.
For more info E-mail
[email protected]
Tel 00599 5815603.
1984 Andrew Burke designed
33 ft ex racer. Located
Barbados Bds $15,000. E-mail
[email protected] Tel
(246) 231 0464.
Two Power Catamarans,
One Sail Boat, Kayaking
Business for sale
Tel 473 - 440-3678 / 407-1147
[email protected]
VITECH 49 TS SPORT CRUISER
Must Sell.Offers Accepted.
Engines need work.
On dry dock at Ottley Hall
Phone 784 488 8414 E-mail:
[email protected]
Heritage WI 46´ -77GPR
Classic CC. Cutter.
Great liveaboard. Lying in
Grenada.US$ 75000:- or try an offer.
SELDEN RIG for VINDÖ 35,
deck stepped, boom,
spreaders, lights, winches
(has been changed for
upgrade) ask for details
Tel (758) 452-8531
2003 Mercury 250hp E.F.I.
complete with stainless steel
propeller and controls.
Excellent condition / low
hours. EC. $25,000. negotiable. Contact: (473) 444 2220
(473) 409 1430
MASTS
TURBULENCE
GRENADA One new Selden
17m inmast
furler/ 2
spreader
sets/
steps
suitable
for
monohull.
Tel (473) 439-4495/415-8271
CHARTER COMPANY CLEARANCE SALE: Selden mast
with rigging for 40 footer,
winches, engine parts,
windlass, diesel stove, sails,
and lots more - ask for
complete list
Tel (758) 452-8531
BUSINESS
FOR
SALE
You own a boat, you live in
the Caribbean, you like to
have income? Buy our business and director license for
day charter in St. Maarten
and you are ready for the
next season. US 15,000
BRAND NEW, UNUSED 24’
AB VST RIB for sale, no
engine $21,500, very open
to offers. Located BVI.
[email protected]
DAY CHARTER BUSINESS
on St. Maarten for sale. This
is a great opportunity!
PROPERTY FOR SALE
SANTA CRUZ 28, 1980 Twin
Volvo TA-MD40’s, New parts, just
overhauled, fuel efficient and
ready for work. US$ 39,700
Tel: (767) 275-2851 E-mail
[email protected]
FRIENDSHIP BAY, BEQUIA
Lovely 1250 sq ft. cottage,
100 yards from beach. 2
master bedrooms, 1 guest
bedroom, full kitchen, laundry, level with road - no
stairs! 12,558 sq ft of land,
fenced
with
mature
fruit trees. US$320,000, Term
rental available. E-mail
[email protected]
CARRIACOU, ONE ACRE LOTS
and multi acre tracts. Great
views overlooking Southern
Grenadines and Tyrrel Bay
BEQUIA PROPERTIES A classic Belmont villa in 1 acre
2,000,000US, The Village
Apartments Business
1,890,000US, Admiralty Bay
900,000US, Spring Villa
1,750,000US LowerBay
1.600,000US, Friendship
320,000US, Moonhole
750,000US, relax & enjoy
Bequia life.
Tel (784) 455 0969 E-mail
[email protected]
www.grenadinevillas.com
BEQUIA, Lower Bay, Bells
Point, House and Land.
Serious buyers only. Sale by
owner. Call (784) 456 4963
after
6pm.
E-mail
[email protected]
BEQUIA HOUSE FOR RENT
2 bedroom/2 bath, furnished, hot water, on road
to Mt. Pleasant, private, fruit
trees, beautiful view, long/
short term. Wanda Leslie Tel
(784) 455-7580 or Willis
Gooding (604) 466-9953
BEQUIA PROPERTY FOR
LEASE Waterfront house with
dock Admiralty Bay. 1/2
acre of land at Level. 6,000
square feet in Hamilton.
Tel (784) 458-3942
E-mail: Daffodil_harris @ yahoo.com
SERVICES
FED UP WITH RISING MORTGAGES
– increased fuel costs –
recession & inflation? Chill
out,
“retire”
to
the
Caribbean, live on a boat
and still earn a living! (not
chartering) Boat based supply Co. for sale suit
couple or family E-mail
[email protected]
PUERTO LA CRUZ, VENZ.
INSURANCE SURVEYS, electrical problems and yacht
deliveries. Tel Cris Robinson
(58) 416-3824187 E-mail
[email protected]
BEQUIA
HOMEMADE
BREADS & Cakes made fresh
every day! Wholewheat, multigrain, banana bread, herbs
& flax, butter crescents. To
place order Tel (784) 4573527/433-3008
E-mail
[email protected]
Orders are delivered FREE
WATERMAKERS Complete systems, membranes, spares and
service available at Curacao
and Puerto La Cruz, Venezuela.
Check our prices at
www.watercraftwatermaker.com
In PLC Tel (58) 416-3824187
AFRICAN SAFARI EXPERINCE
for your next holiday.
www.hazeyview.com
space etc. in trade for start-up
help. Beautiful rainforest, 1 mile to
beach. USVI, needs US Visa,
greencard or citizenship E-mail
[email protected]
BVI SAILING CHARTER COMPANY
looking for computer literate
office/administrator with marketing and graphic design
skills. Please email resume to
[email protected]
RIGGING TECHNICIAN with
experience
needed
for
Turbulence Sails Prickly Bay location Tel (473) 439-4495 E-mail
[email protected]
TORTOLA - ARAGORNS
STUDIO looking for 2 employees.Welder/Workshop manager and shop assistant
required at our busy Art
Studio in Trellis Bay, BVI.Ideal
candidates are a couple
with artistic inclination living
on their own boat and looking for shore side employment in a US$ economy. Still
interested to hear from a
lone welder! Info contact
Aragorn Tel (284) 495-1849
MARINA MANAGER We are
looking for an entrepreneur
to take over (Management
Contract) a profitable bar
and restaurant in our 3 year
old marina. We have a
great location and enjoy tax
advantages as well as a
captive customer base.
The operation is profitable
but not as profitable as it
should be, there are numerous opportunities to generate more business and
reduce costs. The marina is
also growing which will provide a larger customer base.
Candidates should have
food service experience
and management skills.
Extra Income seekers!!!
Sailors,
Beachbums
&
Surfers! Stop looking.....
.......YOU found it!
No selling, No meetings,
No Prospecting.
www.wealthsooncome.com
CLASSIFIED ADS
EC$1/US 40¢ per word –
include name, address and
numbers in count. Line drawings/photos accompanying
classifieds are EC$20/US$8.
KEEP THE
ISLANDS
BEAUTIFUL…
WANTED
OPPORTUNITY TO HELP DEVELOP
SMALL ARTISTS' COLONY with
gallery, workshops, pottery, cottages in progress. Suit energetic
(early retired?) craftsman/
woman or artist with wood/stone
building skills a plus. Partnership in
gallery or workshop and sales
Dispose
of your
garbage properly!
ADVERTISERS INDEX
ADVERTISER
LOCATION
PG#
ADVERTISER
LOCATION
Admiral Yacht Insurance
B & C Fuel Dock
Bahia Redonda Marina
Barefoot Yacht Charters
Bequia Marina
Boat Shed Brokers
Boater's Enterprise
Bogles Round House
Budget Marine
BVI Yacht Sales
Camper & Nicholsons
Caraibe Greement
Caraibe Yachts
Carene Shop
Cooper Marine
Corea's Food Store Mustique
Curaçao Marine
UK
Petite Martinique
Venezuela
St. Vincent
Bequia
Tortola
Trinidad
Carriacou
Sint Maarten
Tortola
Grenada
Martinique
Guadeloupe
Martinique
USA
Mustique
Curaçao
44
39
18
27
41
50
37
43
2
49
17
10
49
20
50
42
6
Dockwise Yacht Transport Sarl Martinique
Dopco Travel
Grenada
Doyle Offshore Sails
Tortola
Doyle's Guides
Caribbean
Echo Marine - Jotun Special Trinidad
Errol Flynn Marina
Jamaica
Food Fair
Grenada
Fortress Marine
St. Kitts
Fred Marine
Guadeloupe
Gourmet Foods
St. Vincent
Grenada Marine
Grenada
Grenada Sailing Festival
Grenada
Grenadines Sails
Bequia
Iolaire Enterprises
UK
Island Water World
Sint Maarten
Johnson Hardware
St. Lucia
Jones Maritime
St. Croix
PG#
ADVERTISER
LOCATION
PG#
ADVERTISER
LOCATION
PG#
12
8
3
38
29
15
43
23
22
42
8
13
39
44
56
25
45
KP Marine
Lagoon Marina Hotel
Lagoonieville Books
Le Phare Bleu
LIAT
Lulley's Tackle
Maranne's Ice Cream
McIntyre Bros. Ltd
Navimca
Northern Lights Generators
Peake Yacht Brokerage
Perkins Engines
Petit St. Vincent
Ponton du Bakoua
Prickly Bay Marina
Renaissance Marina
Santa Barbara Resorts
St. Vincent
St. Vincent
Tortola
Grenada
Caribbean
Bequia
Bequia
Grenada
Venezuela
Tortola
Trinidad
Tortola
PSV
Martinique
Grenada
Aruba
Curaçao
45
30
38
24
55
41
43
45
28
16
48
11
36
20
40
14
7
Sea Services
Silver Diving
Simpson Bay Marina
Soper's Hole Marina
Spice Island Marine
St. Maarten Sails
St. Thomas Yacht Sales
Superwind
SVG Air
Tikal Arts & Crafts
Trade Winds Cruising
Turbulence Sails
Tyrrel Bay Yacht Haulout
Vemasca
Virgin Gorda Yacht Harbour
Wallilabou Anchorage
Xanadu Marine
Martinique
Carriacou
St. Maarten
Tortola
Grenada
St. Maarten
St. Thomas
Germany
St. Vincent
Grenada
Bequia
Grenada
Carriacou
Venezuela
Virgin Gorda
St. Vincent
Venezuela
21
31
29
13
9
5
49
19
26
44
47
9
40
19
30
31
18
…Readers' Forum
—Continued from page 45
But last I checked, Salt Whistle Bay was within the
park boundaries and I did see all of their guests were
swimming in the water and enjoying the beauty that
the TCMP is renowned for. Maybe they don’t agree with
the fee system or the laws and regulations which have
now finally been put in place to manage the park.
What I want to know is why does this company
refuse to pay, when all of the other Grenadines watertaxis, dive operators and day tour companies which
are locally owned and operated pay their fees and
respect the park rangers?
Despite the fact that the TCMP still has a long way
to go in terms of a perfectly managed and run marine
park, I can say from my experiences there that it is
finally getting off the ground in terms of management,
education, enforcement and stopping illegal activities,
increased fish abundances and decreases in litter. We
have all been asking for years for proper marine management and enforcement within the TCMP and rangers are just doing their job! Please support them, follow the laws and report violators!
A Supporter of the Tobago Cays Marine Park
CARIBBEAN COMPASS
PAGE 55
Dear Compass Readers,
We want to hear from YOU!
Please include your name, boat name or address, and
a way we can contact you (preferably by e-mail) if
clarification is required.
We do not publish individual consumer complaints or
individual regatta results complaints. (Kudos are okay!)
We do not publish anonymous letters; however, your
name may be withheld from print at your request.
Letters may be edited for length, clarity and fair
play.
Send your letters to:
[email protected]
or fax (784) 457-3410
or
Compass Publishing Ltd.
Readers’ Forum
Box 175BQ
Bequia
St. Vincent & the Grenadines
SEPTEMBER 2008
Dear Supporter of TCMP,
We can see why there might be some confusion. The
official TCMP website (www.tobagocays.com) says,
“The entry fee only applies for access to the protection
zone (i.e. the Tobago Cays themselves). Visitors to
Mayreau and local residents of that island are not
required to pay the entry fee.” The island of Mayreau is
technically within the greater park boundaries, but not
in the protection zone.
For clarification, we spoke to the TCMP’s Education
Coordinator, Lesroy Noel, who explained to us that
“access to the protection zone” means just that: access.
It is not limited to anchoring or overnighting, but also
includes cruising through on sightseeing tours.
The TCMP website lists the park’s various fees, and
there is provision for a very reasonable reduced fee for
local excursions, presumably to encourage Vincentians
(a surprising number of whom have never been there) to
visit their only National Park.
Compass attempted to contact the owner/skipper of
the tour company in question, but he was out of the
country up until press time.
It has been a long and hard fight to get the Tobago
Cays Marine Park where it is today: an increasingly
healthy marine resource protected by competent and
concerned Vincentians. We urge everyone to support it
and respect those who are protecting it.
CC
Published by Compass Publishing Limited, St. Vincent & the Grenadines, and printed by Trinidad Publishing Company Limited

september08compass_online ( PDF )

Transcription

Similar documents

caribbean invitation-4

founders awards eng

- The City Insight

Homeport Regatta - Pacific Mariner`s Yacht Club

5 Marina Terra - Seaside Realty

digital distribution of caribbean music

to the Dover Titans winners of the Co

PAGE 6.indd - Sj Image Creations

Influential People