Alpine Select

Transcription

Alpine Select

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Climbers Guidebooks from High Col Press
Purchase online at www.highcol.ca
This full-colour guide brings together into a single
collection 1300 of the great rockclimbs of Western
Canada, from Squamish to Lake Louise to the Ghost
River Valley, world-famous crags, popular classics,
alpine crags, and little known jewels in one of the
most beautiful regions of the world. Over 70 climbing areas are described, with over 800 topos and
photos covering sport, trad, long climbs and crags.
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Alpine Select
Climbs in Southwest British Columbia
and Northwest Washington
Free Preview Edition
Alpine Select is the classic guidebook from Kevin McLane
to a collection of 158 great climbs in the mountains of
southwest British Columbia. The guide describes alpine
routes at all levels of difficulty, from the scenic glacier
route up Mount Baker, to the classic ascent of Mount
Tantalus, and hard climbs in the Chehalis range. The
detailed prologue offers extensive climbing and approach
strategies, and a graded list of all 158 climbs.
Alpine Select was the first climbers guide in North America
to introduce the European Alpine Engagement grades to
assess the overall difficulty of the climbs.
This free 44 page PDF Preview Edition is a sampler of
what the full book contains, showing the careful page
detailing, with much of the extensive prologue included,
and galleries presenting how the climbs and topos are
detailed. If you would like to purchase the full 360 page
guidebook, please visit us at www.highcol.ca.
This Preview Edition of Alpine Select is distributed free of
charge by High Col Press.
Copyright to the book and all uncredited photos is held
by the author, Kevin McLane, and other photos are
copyrighted as identified. Alpine Select is published by
Elaho Press, an imprint of High Col Press.
§
This Preview Edition PDF file is set up as 2-page
spreads and prints neatly onto letter-size paper.
Alpine Select FREE PREVIEW EDITION www.highcol.ca
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photo: Don Serl, climber: John Howe
The Southeast Pillar of Grainger
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Alpine Select
& Northern Washington
Kevin McLane
Elaho Publishing Corporation
Squamish, B.C.
© Kevin McLane 2010
www.highcol.ca
www.highcol.ca
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Alpine Select:
PEAKS AND ROADS
& Northern Washington.
Gold Bridge
Athelstan
40
99
Vayu
ISBN 0-9682472-7-X
Sloan
Thiassi
Elaho Publishing Corporation, Squamish BC.
Overseer
Printed in Canada.
Cache
Creek
Lillooet
Samson
Wahoo
Tower
Quotations © Dick Culbert where cited.
Photographs © as credited. Uncredited photos © Kevin McLane
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JOFFRE
Matier
Joffre
Slalok
Pemberton
All uncredited photos, topos, maps, and design by Kevin McLane
Canadian Cataloguing in Publication Data
McLane, Kevin
Alpine Select
Whistler
Ashlu
99
Includes index.
1. Mountaineering—British Columbia—Guidebooks.
2. Mountaineering—Washington (State)—Guidebooks. I. Title.
GV199.44.C22B74618 2001
796.5’22’0971131
C2001-910477-4
All rights reserved
Other than brief quotations in reviews, no part of this book may be
reproduced in any form, or by electronic, mechanical, or any other
means without written permission from the publisher.
Disclaimer
Mountaineering is a hazardous activity carrying a significant risk of
personal injury or death, and should only be undertaken with a full
understanding of all inherent risks. This publication is only a guide
to the climbs, a composite of opinion from many sources, some of
which may not be accurate, and the information contained may not
reflect the circumstances of a particular climb on a given day.
Use of this guide must always be conducted with the required
experience, tuition, and careful judgement necessary for safety.
Elaho™ is a trademark of Elaho Publishing Corporation
TANTALUS
Tantalus
Dione
Serratus
Alpha
Weart
Wedge
James Turner
Blackcomb
Fissile
Fitzsimmons
Davidson
Castle Towers
Isoceles
Sphinx
Garibaldi
ANDERSON
Steinbok
Ibex
Les Cornes
Chamois
Squamish
Yak
Habrich
Sky Pilot
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CHEHALIS
Grainger
Viennese
Clarke
Bardean
Harvey’s Pup
1
Crown
Robie
Reid
7
Hope
Vancouver
Mission
1
1
Chilliwack
British Columbia
Slesse Rexford
I-5
Bellingham
Baker Shuksan
Nooksack
I-5
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Washington
Redoubt
Bear
Glacier
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Abottsford
The publisher wishes to acknowledge the support of the
BC Mountaineering Club toward publication of this
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Old Settler
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TABLE OF CONTENTS
........... 6
Acknowledgements
....... 10
Introduction
The Alpine Grading System ........ 16
Graded List of all Climbs
......... 20
Driving and Approach Times ........ 24
Approach Descriptions
26 – 137
Climb Descriptions
146 – 359
Index of Peaks
....... 360
Approaches from Highway 99
Crown Mountain
............ 26
Harvey’s Pup
............ 28
Mount Habrich and Sky Pilot ............ 30
Tantalus Range
............ 32
Mount Ashlu
............ 40
Mount Garibaldi
............ 42
Central Garibaldi Park
............ 44
Blackcomb, Fissile, Fitzsimmons .... 50
Wedge, Weart , James Turner .......... 52
The Joffre Group
............ 58
Overseer Mountain
............ 68
Mount Athelstan
............ 70
Mount Samson
............ 72
Mount Thiassi
............ 74
Mount Sloan
............ 80
Mount Vayu
............ 81
Wahoo Tower
............ 84
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photo: John Howard, climber: Kevin McLane
The final pitch to the summit ridge on the Northeast Face of Redoubt.
Approaches from Highway 1
Mount Robie Reid
Mount Slesse – East Side
Mount Slesse – West Side
Mount Rexford – West Side
Mount Rexford – East Side
Mount Redoubt
Bear Mountain
The Chehalis Range
The Old Settler
Anderson River Peaks
Yak Peak
............ 86
............ 88
............ 94
............ 96
............ 98
.......... 100
.......... 102
.......... 106
.......... 122
.......... 126
.......... 130
Approaches from the Baker Hwy
Mount Baker
Mount Shuksan
Nooksack Tower
.......... 131
.......... 132
.......... 136
Climbs from Highway 99
Crown Mountain
Harvey’s Pup
Mount Habrich
Sky Pilot
Alpha Mountain
Serratus
Mount Dione
Mount Tantalus
Ashlu Mountain
Mount Garibaldi
Castle Towers
Isosceles Peak
Mount Davidson
The Sphinx
Blackcomb Peak
Fissile Peak
Mount Fitzsimmons
Wedge Mountain
Mount Weart
Mount James Turner
Joffre Peak
Mount Matier
Rex’s Pillar
Overseer Mountain
Mount Athelstan
Mount Samson
Mount Thiassi
Mount Sloan
Mount Vayu
Wahoo Tower
Climbs from Highway 1
Mount Robie Reid
............256
Mount Slesse – East Side ............261
Mount Slesse – West Side ...........276
Mount Rexford – West Side .........278
Nesakwatch Spires
............279
Mount Rexford – East Side ..........280
Mount Redoubt
............286
Bear Mountain
............290
Mount Bardean
............297
Viennese Peak – North Side ........305
Viennese Peak – South Side........315
Mount Clarke
............320
Grainger Peak
............324
The Old Settler
............328
Chamois
............333
Les Cornes
............334
Ibex Peak
............339
Steinbok Peak
............340
Yak Peak
............342
Climbs from the Baker Hwy
Mount Baker
Mount Shuksan
Nooksack Tower
............146
............148
............150
............152
............156
............160
............162
............169
............180
............182
............186
............189
............192
............193
............195
............198
............199
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www.highcol.ca
............344
............348
............357
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INTRODUCTION
INTRODUCTION
T
he purpose of this guide is to present a collection of 158 of the
best, the most popular, and the most difficult alpine climbs in
southwest British Columbia and northern Washington. The area
covered is loosely defined as north from Vancouver to the Bridge
River Canyon (Gold Bridge), east to the Coquihalla Highway, west to
the divide of the Squamish and Elaho rivers, and south to the Baker
Highway in Washington.
flying to acquire a unique and detailed collection of aerial photography of the peaks and the faces, and some of the results are shown
in these pages. Photos in the approach section try to capture the
broader picture of the valleys and summits, whereas those in the
climbs section are more centred on the faces and the routes. The goal
has been to optimise the files to show the detail that matters most in
the best way possible relevant to climbers.
In the fifteen years since Bruce Fairley’s alpine guide was published,
several significant changes have taken place that have impacted on
the habits and attitudes of climbers. There are many more climbers
than even ten years ago, all searching for good climbs; there are far
more quality climbs to choose from, especially difficult ones; and
a shift has occurred from a historical ethic of exploration-centred
mountaineering to one more focussed on seeking out climbs of
quality. It is noteworthy that although this guide covers only one
small part of British Columbia, albeit that which has been perhaps
the most intensely developed, the Coast Range still holds enough
opportunity for exploratory mountaineering and solitude for many
generations yet to come.
In trying to verify the information through development of this
guide, I have personal experience of many of the climbs and almost
all of the approaches, in addition to speaking at first-hand with scores
of climbers, often the first ascentionists, who have direct experience
of the places I have not been. Their knowledge and insight has made
this guide possible.
The selection of climbs is based on the following criteria:
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






popular climbs in the 4th and 5th class grades.
little-known routes which offer good climbing.
unpublished climbs that appear to be quality routes.
summer season climbs.
a selection that presents a wide spectrum of the alpinists’ experience.
straightforward approaches with minimal bushwhacking.
climbs within “weekend range” of Vancouver. (A long weekend.)
some of the best enchainments.
In order to illustrate the relative difficulty of the climbs and the
degree of engagement required for success, an Alpine Grading system
has been applied along with with the familiar YDS (pages 16-19). It
was developed in a cooperative effort by Kevin McLane, Don Serl
and David Jones, the latter being authors of The Waddington Guide and
Selkirks South respectively, where it is also applied. The rating system
is based on the original French grades developed in the birthplace
of alpinism, the Mont Blanc Range, in the 1940s.
The photographs have been pulled from my personal collection,
going back to 1976 in some cases, aided by generous plundering of
the collections of many climbers But for Alpine Select to become a
reality, considerably more was needed. So over three consecutive
Septembers from 1998 to 2000, I spent about twenty-two hours of
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Winter climbs and springtime mixed routes have not been
included in this edition, nor a number of apparently good climbs
about which too little is known. Peaks such as the Illusions, Whitecap,
Urqhart and Northgraves where the approaches have degenerated into
ED bushwhacks have also not been included. Change is constant,
so the possibility of more climbs and approaches being included in
a second edition is intriguing.
The route and approach descriptions reveal many mysteries
about climbs that are both famous and unknown, but they do not
reveal other hallmarks of the alpinists’ experience on rock, ice and
approach: loose rock, rain, pack rodents, mosquitoes, black flies, devils
club, bears, scorching heat, fly-dope stench, freezing temp-eratures,
wet feet, bitter winds, stonefall, ice fall, sore feet, and hard bivys. To
name a few.
Peaks in the north part of the guide area tend to be higher and
colder, and are where most of the iceclimbs can be found. Joffre is
perhaps the finest centre for novices, with many moderate classics
to choose from. In the south (Washington excepted), peaks tend to
be lower and steeper, and consequently offer better, and harder
rockclimbing. The Chehalis and Slesse areas reign as the finest centres
of alpinism, although tending toward rockclimbs. The climbs off the
Baker Highway in Washington are included due to their proximity
to Vancouver. Baker, Shuksan and the Nooksack Tower offer several
superb ice and mountaineering routes.
It is my hope that climbers will enjoy using this guide as much
as I have enjoyed compiling it.
Kevin McLane,
www.highcol.ca
Squamish
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INTRODUCTION
INTRODUCTION
 times for approaches and climbs assume loaded packs, short rests,
and try to reflect an average fitness level of climbers with a skill level
appropriate to the route. On the climbs, times assume a rope of two
climbers: add 25%–30% for a rope of three.

When estimating the time required for approaches and hikes,
the benchmark is Naismith’s Rule: 1 hour for each 5 kilometres of
horizontal travel in good going, plus ½hr for each 300m elevation
gained. But when bushwhacking, navigating alpine terrain, battered
roadbeds or glaciers, this rule is too optimistic: apply the John Clarke
Rule of 1 hour for each 1-2 kilometres of horizontal travel, then ½h
for every 300m elevation gained.
USING THIS GUIDE
 the flow of descriptions through the guide for both approaches
and climbs is ordered from Vancouver. First, those reached from
Highway 99, then from the Trans Canada Highway, then climbs
along the Baker Highway in Washington State.
 [1234m] elevations above sea level. Most have been taken from
1:50,000 topo maps, so are generally accurate to within 25m.
left and right are applied as a climber views the terrain, inward
on ascent, outward on descent.

approach and descent descriptions are referenced for each climb
from a given bivouac area, or the car if the day is short. In those
cases where the approach and descent for several climbs on a peak
is the same, ie. Viennese, Bardean and Wedge, the description and
times are usually placed under the introduction to the peak.


MTB is used for mountainbike, FSR for Forest Service Road.
4wd-hc refers to a high clearance 4x4 truck or sport utility vehicle.

photos of the climbs are typically on pages following the text.

<<
Approach: from Centre Creek road: [39] (page 99) (2½hrs). >>
In this typical approach reference, [39] (page 99) (2½hrs) refers
to the approach trail number, the page where it is described, and
the estimated hours to the end of the approach. That is usually a
sub-alpine bivouac area or hut, but in the case of “day climbs”, if it
is from the vehicle to the start of the climb. Approach descriptions
from the bivy or hut area to the start of the climb are included with
the climb description.
descriptions try to give the climber enough information to find
the approach and reach the climb with as little confusion as possible,
and then describe the climb with enough information to allow success,
bearing in mind the twin desires for adventure and not to get lost.
Within the limitations of a guidebook, this means treading a path
through four usually irreconcilable issues:





describing the nature of the terrain on the climb.
describing what to expect on each pitch.
working within the limits of what is known about the climb.
the need for more lengthy explanations on difficult climbs.
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 In most cases, the text and maps provided should be sufficient to
find the climb without resorting to 1:50,000 topo maps. But if you
have doubts, acquire a 1:50,000 map. BC Government TRIM maps
are an excellent resource, although rather large for the field.
THE ROUTE-LINE
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Twisting Couloir
AD+ ice, mid-5th
(9–13h)12-15p
AD+ mid-5th refers to the Alpine Grade of overall engagement and
the YDS grade. Where noted, “ice” or “mixed” indicates the climb is
principally snow and ice, or mixed in nature. For YDS levels below
5.7, only “mid-5th” and “low-5th” are used.
(10–14h) this reference on the route-line refers to the total time spent
“on the mountain” in ascent and descent, from start of the approach
at the bivouac site (or the car in some cases) and descent back to the
same place, or when all difficulties are over in the case of descents
which are “over the top”, ie Slesse, Redoubt.
 the black diamond refers to climbs which have received very
few, if any, repeat ascents, and the description may be misleading.
12p refers to the estimated number of pitches, usually rock after a
glacial approach, but which may include a few ice or mixed pitches
before or after the main difficulties. On some climbs, especially longer
ones, the range of pitches given, ie. 12–20p as for Dione West Face
routes, indicates a major variation of route that may be taken. Actual
pitches climbed may vary considerably, depending on rope length,
terrain simul-climbed, and tolerance for rope-drag.
2km ........................... indicates a climb where horizontal travel is a
significant characteristic of the climb.
400m refers to the vertical height gain of a climb, typically the easier
ones and ice routes, rather than estimating the number of pitches.
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INTRODUCTION
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INTRODUCTION
THE ROCK, THE ICE, AND THE WEATHER
EQUIPMENT FOR ROCK AND ICE
Bergschrunds vary widely in difficulty as the season progresses,
typically getting higher and harder as time goes by. Cornices
collapsing can pose problems in early season on some routes, so
travel fast and early, or avoid the climb if necessary. The condition
of snow and ice routes varies widely during the season, tending to
become harder and more icy by the fall. All are graded for favourable,
fast conditions. In some cases glacial approaches can become so
broken-up by fall as to become virtually impassable.
A “light Squamish” rack will suffice for most of the rockclimbing in
this guide: typically a set of wires from ¼” to 1” and cams from ½”
to 3½”. On harder climbs, doubles of wires, and doubling up on 1½”
and 2½” cams may prove helpful. Six or eight pins, leaning toward
the thinner sizes of blades and arrows, and a hammer, should be
considered essential. They may not be needed, but if circumstances
such as getting off-route, bad weather, poor protection, beefing up a
belay, or a retreat come about, there is no more satisfying sound than
that of a pin sinking home. The difficulty of the climb will influence
the amount of gear carried, but a price in sweat and lost time must
be paid if a heavy rack is taken on a route “just in case”: as is often
the case with less experienced climbers.
A “randkluft” is a type of bergschrund which abuts the rock,
sometimes called a “moat”, and poses a special hazard at the latitude
and elevation of southwest BC mountains. They are caused by heavy
winter snowloads abutting rock, followed by snow-melt recession and
high temperatures on the surrounding rock. Circulation of warming
air currents further speeds development of deep, dark chasms between
the ice and the rock. They are typically undercut, perhaps severely, a
fact that may not be noticed until the climber is poised at the edge.
Treat them with respect, just as with cornices.
There is not a lot to say about the weather, it is everywhere
all the time. The alpinists’ Holy Grail is settled high pressure, and
this can occur anytime, but historically is most reliable and consistent
between mid-July and mid-September. This is what they say.
Rock quality varies widely. The climbs listed tend to be a broad
mix of granite (generally better rock) and older metamorphic rock
(generally, but not always, worse): sometimes both on the same route.
DRIVING TO THE CLIMBS
An index on page 24 shows those areas that require a 4 wheel
drive high clearance vehicle. Four wheel drive cars tend to be poor
(expensive) at dealing with cross-ditches. Where 4wd is needed, the
situation almost always requires a truck or full-sized sport utility.
Mountainbikes have useful advantages for some approaches. The
trip in takes usually no longer than walking, although it can be more
strenuous, but the return can be considerably faster than any 4wd
truck. Always take tubes and tools and ensure everything works.
FACILITY CENTRES
When travelling on Highway 99, good centres for 24hr food and
gas are at Pemberton, and Whistler (Nesters Market). In downtown
Squamish, check out the Howe Sound Brew Pub and Rainforest Grill.
Up the Chilliwack River Valley, Sardis is a good centre, likewise
Mission for the Chehalis, and the Sasquatch Inn.
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If chosen thoughtfully a hammer suitable for driving pins, but
with an alpine pick, can double for use as an axe on snow and ice
(a “north wall hammer”). This is a strategy that requires experience,
but is relevant for many north face rockclimbs above small but tricky
pocket glaciers. The Northeast Buttress of Slesse is an example.
Most of the climbs in this guide involve some form of glacier
or snow and ice travel at some point in either approach, descent, or
both. Choosing the right type of axe, and whether to take crampons
is a matter of personal judgement. Softer snow and balling-up can
make crampons troublesome at any time, but hard ice can make
them essential. Other essentials to take along include a couple of
cordelettes, rappel slings, a first aid kit, a good water bottle and fly
repellant for the approaches.
Check out Mark Twight and James Martin’s Extreme Alpinism
book for many invaluable tips on what to put in your pack and to
wear, holding the promise of making your ascent more enjoyable.
SOME USEFUL PHONE NUMBERS
Search and Rescue / Emergency services
BC Forest Service, Squamish Forest District (Highway 99)
BC Forest Service, Chilliwack Forest District (Highway 1)
BC Forest Service, Lillooet Forest District (Hurley–Bridge)
BC Parks, Squamish (Tantalus, Garibaldi Park, Joffre)
BC Parks, Chilliwack (Redoubt, Bear)
Cattermole Logging (Anderson Peaks)
Canadian Forest Products (Chehalis)
Interfor (Ashlu)
Lakeside Pacific Forest Products (Old Settler)
US National Parks / US Forest Service (Baker)
Ministry of Forests
Weather Forecasts
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911
(604) 898-2000
(604) 702-5700
(250) 256-1200
(604) 898-3678
(604) 942-2200
(604) 823-6525
(604) 796-2757
(604) 892-2500
(604) 793-9340
(360) 599-2714
www.for.gov.bc.ca
www.weatheroffice.com
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THE ALPINE GRADING SYSTEM
THE ALPINE GRADING SYSTEM
This guide uses European alpine grades, originally developed for the
Mont Blanc range in the 1940s by the French, and universally applied
since then in the western Alps. Through the influence of European
climbers and globe-trotting North Americans, its use has spread on a
casual basis to many of the world’s mountain regions, and is perhaps
the closest there is to an international grading system.
climb; the two principal ones being technical difficulty and the
degree to which a climb is sustained at a consistent level. Considering
that these are addressed by the Yosemite Decimal System, the consequences are predictable to a fair degree. But unlike pure rock climbs,
alpine climbs carry a complex array of psychological and physical
characteristics, including the length of the climb, that weigh heavily
on the eternal question of “How far do I have to stick my neck out?”,
and they greatly influence the degree of engagement.
Within the boundaries of climbs in any grade, the less typical
the “standard” technical difficulties of rock and ice and length, the
more likely there are to be some objective hazards, or perhaps an
acutely difficult section, routefinding troubles, or occasional sections
of runout or problematic terrain, an easy escape or a difficult descent,
any combination of these, or perhaps something else that gives an
answer of “not very” or “a long way” to the above question.
For grading, an interesting difference between today and the
1940s when French guides developed their system is that an average
North American climber today possesses what would then have been
an exceptionally high proficiency at rockclimbing, yet feel some
intimidation when setting forth on what climbers of years ago would
have considered average terrain of mixed rock and ice.
Traditionally, there have been very few definitions drawn up to
describe what may be expected in each grade: it is very much an
experience-based system. So the definitions on page 18 attempt to
explain in both subjective and technical terms what the grades entail
on matters of terrain and skill in Alpine Select.
Altitude does not have a significant effect on the application of
grades in this guide. But the approaches, even within weekend range
of Vancouver, are often long and arduous, so the scale of committment can ramp up accordingly. The descent is also considered part of
the grade: some can be very challenging. Varying conditions change
the degree of engagement in unpredictable ways: hence all climbs
are graded for good conditions only.
The Alpine Grades as applied to Alpine Select were developed by
Kevin McLane, Don Serl and David Jones, the latter being authors of
The Waddington Guide and Selkirks South respectively, where they are
also applied. Andy Selters and Sean Dougherty played an invaluable
role in helping develop the list on page 19. As a result, the great
majority of grades are quite consistent and can be accepted with a
fair degree of confidence. Over time, some will undoubtedly change
as more insight is gained, and that will be reflected in future editions
of the guides. Your feedback is very welcome.
Portraying the challenge of alpine climbs by means of a grade
is a difficult task. Reaching beyond the predictability of Yosemite
Decimal System grades, alpine climbs provoke demand for a more
subjective assessment, the one thing that matters most when trying to
find a personal comfort level at the demands of technical difficulty,
psychological challenge, magnitude, distance and effort, expressed in
one meaningful acronym. Alpine Grades try to help the climber find
clarity in matching their comfort level with climbs they can do.
Since the 1950s, long climbs in the United States and to a
lesser extent in Canada have been rated by the National Climbing
Classification System, better known as “the roman numeral grade”.
In its original design by statistician Leigh Ortenburger, an attempt was
made to encompass the entire scale of the endeavour, but that was
usurped by its application to Yosemite climbs where it became strictly
a measure of the time required. In terms of its effectiveness in the
heavily glaciated terrain of Canadian alpine climbs, NCCS falls well
short. Alpine Grades, being based on terrain and skill descriptions,
and having a dozen or so categories of grade, are unequivocably
different from NCCS, in both verbal articulation and the avoidance
of any confusion with “time-required” grades.
Alpine Grades come as much from the gut as they do the head,
an intuitive as well as technical measurement that helps a climber
sense where a particular climb fits with their comfort level when it
comes to addressing alpine uncertainties of length, altitude, weather
volatility, approach, severity of terrain, belay security, isolation,
protection, stonefall, technical difficulty, icefall, fatigue, cold north
faces, sunny south sides, and more...
Perhaps the best single word that describes the essence of Alpine
Grades is “engagement”: it is the shibboleth which distinguishes the
degree of challenge, difficulty, and committment that each climb
presents. Most climbers are unwilling to attempt climbs above a
certain Alpine Grade, whatever its technical difficulty, because the
degree of engagement – the influencing forces of intimidation, effort
and risk– is beyond their comfort level to accept.
There are many factors that influence the grade of an alpine
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ALPINE GRADE DEFINITIONS
ALPINE GRADE COMPARISIONS
The technical, physical and psychological factors that influence the
degree of engagement become more demanding as grades increase.
Routefinding skill becomes increasingly important through all grades.
Some tolerance for “running it out” is required, progressively more
so at higher grades. Exceptionally long climbs can occur in any
grade, but are more likely to have lower technical difficulties. Climbs
from D upward almost always have a descent that is “over the top”,
down a route that may be AD or D in ascent. Any combination of
the characteristics within each grade is possible, influencing a possible
“+” or “–” grade.
The list below is presented here to show how Alpine Grades in
this guide compare with some well-known European climbs, and
tentative grades that have been informally applied to well-known
North American mountaineering routes. The definitions opposite
should be applicable in principle to the climbs.
F
easy
(facile)
Walking or easy glacier travel, and climbs with technical difficulty limited
to some scrambling or a little 4th class (Sky Pilot West Buttress, Baker
Coleman-Deming).
PD
not very difficult
(peu difficile)
Can be considered an introductory level for novices, with few technical
difficulties, perhaps cruxing at low-5th, or long snow and ice climbs with
limited crevasse problems. Many via normales are PD climbs.
AD
fairly difficult
(assez difficile)
This grade demands solid competence on all aspects of alpine terrain,
typically ranging from rockclimbs cruxing at mid-5th to technically lesser,
but physically demanding routes (Redoubt Northeast Face). Main difficulties
are often considerable amounts of 4th class. The AD grade covers most
of the ice climbs in this guide, the more difficult via normales, and is
often the grade of a descent.
D
difficult
(difficile)
Climbs at this grade are significant undertakings for experienced climbers,
demanding at least the same terrain competence as AD routes, as well as
higher technical skills on rock and ice. Terrain can range very widely, from
mostly mid-5th climbs (Slesse Southeast Buttress), to short, harder climbs,
or long or intimidating climbs of mostly-4th/low 5th (Nooksack Tower, Sir
Donald Northwest Ridge). D tends to be the grade of the more difficult ice
climbs (Shuksan Price Glacier, Joffre Central Couloir).
TD
very difficult
(trés difficile)
TD is the hallmark of classic “hard” routes such as Slesse Northeast Buttress,
Beckey-Chouinard, Greenwood-Locke, Edith Cavell North Face. They are
always substantial undertakings that may hold demanding ice, or rock
difficulties that commonly reach into 5.10; or considerable amounts
of sustained 5.7/9 climbing; or present lesser difficulty in unusually
intimidating situations (Robson North Face, Bear North Face 1967).
ED1/2/3/4 extremely difficult
(extremement difficile)
From “harder than TD” up to the most demanding climbs in the world,
ED routes require an exceptionally high level of skill on rock, ice, or
both, as well as tolerance for sustained objective danger; all in situations
where retreat may be very hazardous. Always physically demanding.
www.highcol.ca
Europe
United States
Eiger, 1938 Route
Mont Blanc, Central Pillar Freney
Grands Jorasses, Walker Spur
Les Droites, Northeast Spur
Mont Blanc, Red Sentinel
Aiguille du Midi, Frendo Spur
Tour Ronde, North Face
Matterhorn, Hornli Ridge
Les Courtes, Cordier Route
Mont Blanc, Standard route
ED1/2
ED1
ED1
TD+
D+
D+
D
AD+
AD
British Columbia
Mt. Combatant, Belligerence
ED3
Mt. Tiedemann, British Pillar
ED2
Howser Towers, Watchtower
ED2
Moby Dick, Ohno Wall
ED1
Mt. Waddington, South Face
ED1
Mt. Combatant, Skywalk Complete ED1
Howser Towers, Beckey–Chouinard TD+
Moby Dick, Boomerang
TD+
Les Cornes, Springbok Arete
TD+
Slesse, Northeast Buttress
TD
Mt. Clarke, North Ridge
TDMt. Waddington, Standard Route D+
Snowpatch Spire, Southeast Route D
Joffre, Central Couloir
DSir Donald, Northwest Ridge
DBugaboo Spire, Northeast Ridge AD+
Tantalus, Southeast Spur
AD+
Mt. Assiniboine, North Ridge
AD+
Claw Peak, West Ridge
AD
Alpha, East Ridge
AD
Mt. Slesse, Southwest Buttress
ADBugaboo Spire, Kain Ridge
ADSir Sandford, Northwest Ridge
ADPigeon Spire, West Ridge
PD
Uto Peak, Southwest Ridge
PD
Keeler Needle, Harding Route
TD
Bear Mt, North Face 1967
TD
Grand Teton, North Face
D+
Pingora, Northeast Face
D+
Mt Stuart, North Ridge Complete
D+
Grand Teton, Complete Exum Ridge D
Grand Teton, Black Ice Couloir
D
Mt. Rainier, Liberty Ridge
D
Shuksan, Price Glacier
D
Mt Whitney, East Buttress
DMt. Redoubt, Northeast Face
AD+
Mt. Baker, North Ridge
AD
Mt Whitney, East Face
AD
Forbidden Peak, West Ridge
AD
Pingora, South Buttress
AD
Mt. Rainier, Standard Route
PD+
Mt. Shuksan, Fisher Chimneys
PD+
Canadian Rockies
Mt.
Mt.
Mt.
Mt.
Mt.
Mt.
Mt.
TD
Mt.
Mt.
Mt.
Mt.
Mt.
Mt.
Mt.
Mt.
Mt.
Mt.
Alberta, North Face
ED3
Robson, Emperor Ridge
ED2
Andromeda, Andromeda Strain ED1
Kitchener, Grand Central Couloir ED1
Temple, Greenwood-Locke
TD+
Deltaform, Supercouloir
TD
Edith Cavell Nor. Face Chouinard
Robson, North Face
Columbia, North Ridge
Andromeda, Shooting Gallery
Athabaska, North Face
Temple, East Ridge
Edith Cavell, East Ridge
Louis, Kain Route
Andromeda, Skyladder
Athabasca, North Ridge
Victoria, Southeast Ridge
Do nothing in haste, look well to each step, and from the beginning
think what may be the end.
Edward Whymper.
www.highcol.ca
TDTDD+
D+
D
D
DAD+
AD
PD+
20
GRADED LIST OF CLIMBS
21
Bivys: assumes helicopter use if noted with an asterisk *
Peak
Popularity:  a rarely-climbed route: p: popular vp: very popular.
Thiassi
Southwest Buttress
Joffre
Flavelle-Lane
Clarke
North Face
Bear
West Buttress 1977
Baker
McDonald–Mather
Nooksack To. Nelson–Gerson
Grainger
Beat The System
Habrich
Life On Earth
Grainger
Flavelle–Rohn
Ashlu
South Face
Bardean
Flavelle-Beckham
Harvey’s Pup Pup Buttress
Grainger
J Crack–Route 3
Grainger
Southeast Pillar
Tantalus
1968 Route
Redoubt
Redoubt Traverse
Tantalus
Enchainment (short)
Clarke
North Ridge–Couloir
Nooksack To. Beckey–Schmidtke
Slesse
Southeast Buttress
Tantalus
West Face Direct
Slesse
North Face Couloir
Isosceles
Vertex
Yak
Yak Check
Habrich
Solar System
Old Settler
Duck a l’Orange
Isosceles
Crosscut Ridge
Matier
West Buttress
Nesakwatch Sp.No. - SW. Ridge
Viennese
South Face
Athelstan
Selective Cut
The Sphinx
North Ridge
Joffre
Enchainment
Viennese-Clarke Enchainment
Athelstan
Lillarete
TDTDTDTDTDTDD+
D+
D+
D+
D+
D+
D+
D+
D+
D+
D+
D+
D+
D+
D+
D+
D
D
D
D
D
D
D
D
D
D
D
D
D
5.10a
5.9
5.9
5.8
ice
ice 5.7
5.11a
5.10c
5.10b
5.10a
5.10a
5.10a
5.10
5.10
5.9
5.9
5.8
5.8
5.7
5.7
5.7 (5.9)
ice, 5.8
5.10b
5.10a
5.10a
5.10a
5.10
5.9
5.9
5.9
5.9
5.9
5.8/9
5.8
5.8
2
1
2
2
1
1
1
0
1
0
1
0
1
1
2
2
1*
2
1
1
2
1
3/4
0
0
1
3/4
1
1
1
1
2
2
2
1
Slesse
Davidson
Shuksan
Dione
Shuksan
D
D
D
D
D
5.8
5.7
ice
ice 5.8
ice, mid-5th
1
3/4
1
3,1*
1
Peak
Slesse
Steinbok
Climb
AG
East Face
Edwards–Spagnut
YDS
Bivys Pop. Length
ED2
ED2
5.9, A3+
5.10d, A0
3/4
2

Robie Reid
Pacemaker
Bardean
Hidden Pillar
Viennese
Bohemian Rhapsody
Slesse
Navigator Wall
Slesse
East Pillar
Joffre
Central Pillar of Joffre
Les Cornes
Springbok Arete
Dione
West Face (entire)
Dione
Zwecker–Spagnut (entire)
Bear
Direct North Buttress
Slesse
Northeast Buttress Dir.
Viennese
North Face Direct
Wahoo Tower Blues Buttress Direct
Nooksack To. North Face
Steinbok
Northeast Buttress
Dione
West Face (upper)
Dione
Zwecker–Spagnut (upper)
Bardean
Flying Dutchman
Viennese
Flavelle–Howe
Viennese
Derektissima
Bear
West Buttress 1998
Viennese
Variazioni
Wahoo Tower Articling Blues
Viennese
Viennese Waltz
Rexford
Pillar of Pi
Slesse
Northeast Buttress
Bardean
Tuning Fork
Bardean
Reward
Slesse
Fraser Ribber
ED1/2
ED1
ED1
ED1
ED1
TD+
TD+
TD+
TD+
TD+
TD+
TD+
TD+
TD+
TD+
TD
TD
TD
TD
TD
TD
TD
TD
TD
TD
TD
TD
TD
TD
5.10a, A1+
5.10d
5.10d
5.10d
5.10c
5.10c
5.10c
5.10b, A2
5.10b, A1
5.10a
5.10a
5.10a, A1
5.10a
5.9
5.9, A2
5.10b, A2
5.10b, A1
5.10b
5.10b
5.10a
5.10a
5.10a
5.10a
5.10
5.9, A2
5.9
5.9
5.9
5.9
4/5
2
2
2
2
1
1/2
2, 1*
3, 1*
2
2
2
5
1/2
2/3
3, 1*
3, 1*
1
2
2
2
2
5
2
2
1
1
1
1

Slesse
Viennese
Viennese
Bear
Tantalus
James Turner
Tantalus
Isosceles
Clarke
TD
TD
TD
TD
TD
TD
TD
TDTD-
5.9
5.9
5.9
5.8
5.8
ice, 5.7
mixed, 5.9
5.11a
5.10b
1
2
2
2
2*
2/3
3, 2*
3/4
2
North Rib
Ourom–Thomson
Late For Work
North Face 1967
Enchainment (full)
North Face
Kay–Mannix
Good, Bad, And Ugly
North Ridge
www.highcol.ca




















p
p







p
23p
18p
37p
16p
18p
20-22p
28p
12-15p
16p
20p
20p
19p
28p
18p
15p
16p
19p
12p
12p
12p
21p
18p
16p
18p
15p
15p
18p
25p
15p
15p
20p
27p
16p
16p
16p
11km
550m
20-24p
5p
16p
Climb
AG
North Buttress
Northeast Ridge
Price Glacier
Dione Couloir
Nooksack Ridge
YDS
www.highcol.ca
Bivys Pop. Length






vp
p

p






vp
vp



p



p


10-12p
12p
14p
16p
650m
16p
5p
6p
5p
11p
15p
10-11p
7p
7p
20-24p
2km
6km
16p
15p
20-22p
20-24p
20p
5p
15p
6p
9p
½km
7p
8p
8-9p
18p
6p
8km
4km
18p
6p
1km
1100m
20p
1100m
22
Peak
Climb
AG
Crown Mt.
Widowmaker Arete
DOld Settler
Contact Zone
DOld Settler
Mars Western
DEnsawkwatch Enchainment
D
Rexford
East Ridge
DShuksan
Northwest Arete
DJoffre
Central Couloir
DViennese
Crescendo
AD+
Ibex
Southeast Ridge
AD+
Isosceles
Ski Boots From Hell
AD+
Old Settler
Wedge
Alpha
Matier
Viennese
Alpha
Chamois
Bardean
Dione
Vayu
Tantalus
Joffre
Joffre
Joffre
Redoubt
Baker
Fitzsimmons
Samson
Samson
Weart
Wedge
Joffre
Castle Towers
Baker
Shuksan
Wedge
Wedge
Wedge
Serratus
Slesse
Joffre
Thiassi
Joffre
Duck–Down
Northwest Rib
Guides Buttress
Southwest Buttress
The Nursery Face
North Buttress
North Buttress
Northeast Ridge
Southwest Spur
Northwest Ridge
Southeast Spur
The Ramp
Twisting Couloir
Joffre Couloir
Northeast Face
Coleman Headwall
North Face
North Face
North Face Variant
North Face
Northeast Face
Northeast Glacier
Northwest Face
North Ridge
North Face
Northwest Couloir
Driscoll–Legg Couloir
North Face
North Face
West Pillar
Northwest Ridge
Southwest Couloir
South Buttress
AD+
AD+
AD+
AD+
AD+
AD+
AD+
AD+
AD+
AD+
AD+
AD+
AD+
AD+
AD+
AD+
AD+
AD+
AD+
AD+
AD+
AD
AD
AD
AD
AD
AD
AD
AD
AD
AD
AD
AD
YDS
Bivys
5.9
5.9
5.8
5.7
5.7
ice, mid-5th
ice, 4th
5.9
5.9
5.9
5.8
5.7
5.7
5.7
5.7 to 5.10a
5.6
5.6
mid-5th
mid-5th
mid-5th
4th
ice, mid-5th
ice, mid-5th
ice, 4th
ice, mid-5th
ice
ice
ice
ice
ice
ice
ice, 5.8
ice, 4th
ice
ice
ice
ice
ice
ice
5.8
5.8
5.8
5.8
www.highcol.ca
23
Pop. Length
0
10-12p
1
p
8p
1

9p
1

¾km
1
500m
1
950m
1
12-15p
2
10p
1
6p
3/4

5p
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
2
1
2
1
1
1
2
1
1
0
0
1
1
0
2
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
0
2
1

p



p
p


vp
vp
p
p
p

12p
300m
450m
8p
6-9p
450m
12p
12p
8-10p
10-12p
550m
12-15p
12-15p
8-10p
1000m
650m
500m
700m
700m
400m
350m
700m
500m
650m
900m
200m
250m
200m
300m
3-4p
1½km
10-12p
350m
Peak
Climb
Overseer
Alpha
Slesse
Athelstan
Thiassi
Southwest Face
Northeast Spur
Northwest Face
Moonraker
Northwest Face
AG
Rexford
Northeast Ridge
Old Settler
West Buttress
Joffre
East Ridge
Matier
East Ridge
Alpha
Northwest Buttress
Dione
Southeast Face
Old Settler
Old Settler Traverse
Serratus
East Ridge
Viennese
East Ridge
Phyllis’ Engine West, East Faces
Alpha
East Ridge
Nesakwatch Sp.So. North Ridge
Slesse
Southwest Buttress
Rexford
West Ridge
Sloan
Northeast Ridge
Shuksan
Fisher Chimneys
Wedge
Wedge Couloir
Wedge
Northeast Arete
Fissile
Northwest Couloir
Fissile
Northwest Face
Garibaldi
Northeast Face
Matier
Northwest Face
Garibaldi
East Face
Matier
Northeast Spur
Blackcomb
Dead On Arrival
Grainger
South Ridge
Nesakwatch Sp. No. North Ridge
Grainger
East Ridge
Joffre
Southeast Face
Blackcomb
Blackcomb Buttress
Serratus
West Face Couloir
Sky Pilot
East Face
Sky Pilot
West Buttress
Rex’s Pillar
Stonecrop Face
Baker
Coleman–Deming
YDS
Bivys Pop. Length
AD
AD
AD
AD
AD
5.8
5.7
5.7
5.7
mid-5th
1
1
1
1
2
AD
AD
AD
AD
AD
AD
AD
AD
ADADADADADADADADADADADADADADPD+
PD+
PD+
PD+
PD+
PD+
PD+
PD
PD
PD
PD
PD
F
low-5th
low-5th
low-5th
low-5th
4th
4th
4th
4th
5.8
5.8
5.7
5.7
5.6
low-5th
low-5th
ice, 4th
ice
ice
ice
ice
ice
ice
ice
ice, 4th
5.7
5.7
low-5th
low-5th
4th
low-5th
4th
4th
4th
ice
ice
1
1
0
1
1
2
1
1
1
2
1
1
0
1
0
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
0
1
1
1
0
0
1
0
0
0
1
—— § ——
www.highcol.ca


p
p
p
p
p
p
p
p
vp
p
vp
p
vp
p
p
p
p
vp
vp
p
vp
vp
vp
p
p
vp
p
vp
5p
450m
5-6p
12p
8p
500m
10p
500m
2km
600m
540m
2km
1½km
6p
2–3p
450m
6p
300m
300m
1½km
1000m
550m
350m
400m
400m
400m
6-8p
500m
6-8p
6-8p
6-7p
8p
1½km
500m
6-8p
200m
400m
400m
600m
1450m
24
25
THE TANTALUS RANGE
The Tantalus Range is a longstanding area of enduring alpine
popularity an hours drive from Vancouver. Located near Squamish,
it offers four challenging alpine peaks: Alpha, Serratus, Dione and
Tantalus, giving a wide range of climbs on rock and snow, as well as
several lesser summits for scrambling.
It gains its distinctiveness and aura of remoteness from the
wide Squamish River which guards the eastern border against all
but the determined, and the sprawling glaciers with the twin peaks
of Dione–Tantalus as a centrepoint make a spectacular panorama,
especially from Highway 99. Climbing in the Tantalus demands hard
work if an approach is made from the river, as the elevation gain
to the summits, more than 2500 metres, is higher than any other in
the guide. An ascent of Tantalus or Dione requires three full days for
most climbers: little wonder helicopter approaches are popular.
Grand though the view is from the east, the hidden west faces
of Tantalus and Dione are dramatic rock precipices 800 metres high.
The rock is granitic; good on the north face of Alpha and some parts
of Tantalus and Dione, but not so on Serratus.
www.highcol.ca
www.highcol.ca
26
TANTALUS RANGE
TANTALUS RANGE
Alpha Mountain
2305m
This is the prominent peak which lies at the southeastern corner of
the range. The east ridge and glaciated north side of the mountain
can be seen from many locations along Highway 99. It was climbed
in 1916 by bushwhacking up from the head of Howe Sound.
Approach: from the outlet of Lake Lovely Water [6,7] (page 35)
to the glacier below the climbs. For the north face climbs, traverse
the upper section of the glaciated northeast slopes to the start of the
chosen climb (2–3h).
Descent for all routes: The initial objective is to gain the top of the
snowslope on the west side of the peak. The rock rib that leads down
westward from the summit is steepish for downclimbing, so scramble
along on its southern flank, until a small gully gains access to the
snow. Continue west on the crest of the arete that leads toward the
Alpha–Serratus col. At the first reasonable opportunity, after no more
than 200m of scrambling, go left (a short rappel may be preferred)
onto a rampy break that gains a snow and scree basin. Although a
fairly direct line can be taken from here down to Lambda Lake, it
is uncomfortably steep. Better to drop westward down a series of
snow/scree basins, avoiding steeper scrubby terrain below, until it is
possible to scramble down more forgiving bush and rock directly to
a lower snow/scree basin. Traverse eastward along it to a snowslope
at its east end which drops directly down to Lambda Lake. Follow
the trail down to Lake Lovely Water (2½–3h).
7
East Ridge
AD- 5.7
(8–11h)
450m
Tom Fyles, J.Fyles, 1916
This is a classic of mountaineering in the Tantalus, a popular climb with
short-lived difficulties.
A fit and fast party can do it in a day from
Squamish.
 Stay on the easy initial rocks of ridge itself, or climb the snowslopes on
the north side to where the ridge steepens at about 2100m. From a notch
on the ridge, a short pitch up a groove/crack line past a small overhang
gives a few moves of 5.7–5.8 to gain the lower-angle ridgecrest above.
It is possible to find a way around to the left to bypass these difficulties
Beyond the overhang, it is 3rd and 4th to the summit (3–4h).
“As an instructive generalisation, novices in the mountains are afraid of
falling, while experienced mountaineers are afraid of things falling on them.”
8
Northeast Spur
450m
AD 5.7
www.highcol.ca
(6–10h)
Bob Cuthbert, Alice Purdey, 1968
This is the lefthand spur on the face. A lower section forms a rib, dropping a
considerable distance down through the glacier below. This can be avoided
by a convenient break at mid-height, passed through by the traverse route
to other climbs on this face.
 From the mid-height point, either stay on the rock of the ridge, or climb
steep snow and ice to the right, finishing either by a fine snow crest to the
summit (2–3h). Alternatively, another 300m of climbing to mid-5th leads
up the lower spur to a junction with the mid-height. About 2–3 hours will
be added if the lower rib is climbed.
9
AD+ 5.6
North Buttress
(7–10h)
450m
Bruce Fairley, Don Serl, August 1981
This is the central of the three climbs on the north face.
 Start at the toe of the buttress and climb about 5 pitches on good rock
to mid-5th, followed by easier terrain to the summit (3–4h).
10
Guides Buttress
AD+ 5.7
(7–10h)
450m
Herb Bleuer, Cam Cairns, Mike Down, John Simpson, June 1978
This is the righthand of the three spurs on the north face. As with the
others, it is about 300m high. It sports a prominent gendarme. It is a
popular route for guides-in-training, not the least because of loose rock.
 About 6 pitches of steep rock up to 5.7 lead to a large gendarme on the
Northwest Ridge. Continue to the summit (3–4h).
11
Northwest Buttress
AD 4th
(9–12h)
600m
Fred Douglas, Paul Starr, 1969
This is the broad northwest-facing buttress, below the Alpha–Serratus col,
about 600m high. Unlike other climbs on this peak, it cannot be easily
seen from Highway 99.
Approach: from the Ionia–Serratus basin [6, 8] (page 35). Take the
rampy break out of the north side of the basin, (as for gaining the
Ionia–Serratus Col [9], then once on the easier slopes, turn right over
snow and scree to the Alpha–Serratus col. Drop down on snowslopes
to the north, aiming for the base of Alpha’s broad Northwest Buttress
to the right. Traverse along its base to the northern end, about 300m
below the col (2½–3h).
Alternatively, the Alpha–Serratus col can be gained from Lambda Lake,
by scrambling up the descent route off Alpha (2–2½h).
 Start at the left side of the buttress and pick a way up up 3rd and 4th
class terrain. A prominent gendarme provides some fine 5th class (can be
avoided) to reach the upper ridge leading to the summit (4–6h).
20% of the climbs in this guide received their first ascent after 1990.
Dick Culbert, Alpine Guide to Southwestern British Columbia (1975).
27
www.highcol.ca
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TANTALUS RANGE
TANTALUS RANGE
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30
TANTALUS RANGE
TANTALUS RANGE
Serratus
2326m
This distinctive peak between Alpha and the Tantalus–Dione masssif
to the northwest is clearly seen as a high serrated ridge running
east–west. Impressive from a distance, but lacking good rock, it has
a heavily glaciated north face, a wide south face seamed with couloirs
and a west face that offers a few modest rock routes. Times given
assume start and return points as noted.
12
East Ridge
AD 4th
(4–7h) 1½km/400m
This is the attractive, high level ridge running east–west from the Alpha–
Serratus col, clearly visible from many points along Highway 99. Seamed
with innumerable gendarmes, it offers classic mountaineering on terrain
that is mostly 3rd class. Spectacular though it appears, the rock is poor.
Approach: from the Ionia–Serratus basin [6, 8] (page 35) (2–3h).
 From the col, climb direct up the crest of the initial buttress, or bypass
it on the north side. Weave along the ridge, mostly 3rd class with
occasional sections of 4th and perhaps a rappel or two, depending on
skill at routefinding. Speed will depend heavily on efficiency at moving
together (3–5h).
Descent: descend the southwest spur for about 100m elevation loss
and trend left into a couloir that leads down to the Ionia–Serratus col.
Head down to the Ionia–Serratus basin (1½–2h).
13
North Face
AD ice
(4–6h)
300m
Rob Driscoll, Bruce Fairley, Bob Stair June 1982
This steep snow and ice face is perhaps best in early summer conditions,
as it can break up into a steep icefall later in the year. Difficulty is generally
limited by the size of the crevasses and bergschrunds that can be
encountered, however, there are numerous variants that can be considered.
Approach: down easy slopes from Red Tit col [6, 8, 9] (pages 35-36) (¼h).
 The original ascent and most popular variant today weaves up on the
right side of the face, finishing up the rock directly to the summit (2–3h).
Head down to the Ionia–Serratus basin, or back to Red Tit col (1½–2h).
14
West Face Couloir
PD 4th
(3–5h)
200m
unknown
The attractiveness of this triangular, broken face has much to do with the
convenience of the nearby Red Tit hut.
Approach: traverse easy slopes from Red Tit col [6, 8, 9] (pages 35-36)
(¼h).
 The most frequented line takes the couloir left of centre on the face,
rising to a distinctive notch on the northwest spur of the peak. From the
notch, continue to the summit (2–3h).
Head down to the Ionia–Serratus basin, or back to Red Tit col (1½–2h).
www.highcol.ca
www.highcol.ca
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32
TANTALUS RANGE
TANTALUS RANGE
Mount Dione
2590m
This peak is the high southern bastion of the twin-summited massif of
the Tantalus range, often confused with Tantalus Mountain itself. An
ascent of Dione by the standard route up the Southeast Face is a fine
moderate classic of mountaineering, albeit loose, and as it involves
less time and complexity that Tantalus, it consequently sees far more
ascents. The impressively steep west face of Dione, 300m of steep
rock above 300m of couloir, enjoys some of the best rock in the range,
a hidden gem tucked out of the sight of travellers on Highway 99.
The time involved in ascent and descent may vary widely
depending on skill at moving on moderate terrain. For most climbers,
Dione is a full day’s return from the Red Tit Col, but a fit and fast
party could do it from the Ionia–Serratus Basin.
Times given assume a start and return to Red Tit Col. The shorter
times given for climbs on the west sides of Tantalus and Dione assume
a helicopter approach.
15
Southeast Face
AD 4th
16
AD+ mid-5th
Southwest Spur
(9–14h) 3km/8-10p
Bob Cuthbert, Gary Kozel, Alice Purdey, 1968
This is the broad spur rising directly above the north end of the Dione
Glacier. It should be noted that this climb, and the 1968 Route on Tantalus
were not, as lore would have it, the work of the legendary Dick Culbert.
They came from the canny Scotsman Bob Cuthbert, a man who learned
his craft on the cold, harsh cliffs of Ben Nevis in the 1950s.
Approach: From the Red Tit Col [6, 8, 9] (pages 35-36), as for the
Southeast Face route on Dione, traverse the Dione Glacier to the start
of the couloir leading up below the south face: 3 kilometres (1½–2h).
The time given is return to the Red Tit Col.
 Climb about 30m up the couloir then make a rising traverse to the left
to gain the prominent central couloir on the south face. Climb rock on its
left side until beyond a pinnacle. Continue on the face above, trending
right to the summit (4–7h).
Descent: the standard Southeast Face route to the Red Tit Col (3–4h).
(8–12h) 3km/540m
This is the normal route on the peak, the upper part of which is easily
seen from Highway 99, somewhat lost next to the much larger eastern
rock flank of Tantalus. It provides a fine day of classic mountaineering
on a wide variety of terrain. The time given is a return to the Red Tit Col.
Approach: From the Red Tit Col [6, 8, 9] (pages 35-36), traverse easily
along the wide Dione glacier on the west side of the peak’s long
southern ridge-crest to reach the slopes beneath the broad couloir
leading up to Dione’s high south col (1½–2h).
 Avoid this couloir by trending back up right on snow to reach the ridgecrest, then follow it north (4th) to the high col below Dione’s summit
pyramid. It is also possible to take one of several small couloirs (choose
carefully–see topo) more directly to the crest. The ridge-crest can be
climbed in its entirety from the Red Tit Col at 3rd and 4th, but will add a
few more hours to the day.
Alternatively, the couloir offers a more direct line to reach Dione’s high
south col than by traversing back right to the ridge-crest. But typically by
late summer, a severely undercut crevasse can form at the head of this
couloir, creating a major hazard (2–3h).
Once at the high col, several lines at no more than low-5th lead in
2–3 pitches to the summit. The easiest (3rd and 4th), curves around to
the left, starting a short distance back down the couloir. A factor that may
influence the best line of ascent is where to cross the bergschrund to get
onto the rock: it can be very large (1–2h).
Descent: reverse the climb to the Red Tit Col (3–4h).
www.highcol.ca
33
The first ascent of Mount Dione was in 1916, led by Tom Fyles, via the
Southeast Face.
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TANTALUS RANGE
TANTALUS RANGE
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35
36
17
TANTALUS RANGE
TANTALUS RANGE
West Face
TD/TD+ 5.10b, A2
(11–15h) 
 12-20p
18
Zwecker–Spagnut
TD/TD+
37
5.10b, A1 (11–15h)  12-20p
Don Serl, Greg Foweraker, Peder Ourom, September 1996
Howie Zwecker, Mike Spagnut; September 2000
The west face of Dione is is the largest unbroken wall in the range, an
impressive monolithic cliff some 400m high, sitting above a steep, 300m
couloir approach. It offers the two hardest technical rockclimbs in the range.
A route similar in character and quality to the West Face. It is, in effect a
slightly more direct line, albeit with the same start and finish places, and
many common sections. Hence, the description for both climbs (which were
supplied by the first ascentionists) should be considered. The only ascent
to date was via a helicopter approach.
Approach: as for the West Face (facing page) (1½–2hr).
Approach: From the north end of the Dione Glacier [6, 8, 9, 10] (pages
35-36), or by helicopter [11] (page 36) . Descend until it is possible to
cross the long spur dropping west from the peak. Climb down into the
glacial basin below the west faces of Tantalus and Dione and then up to
the bergschrund below the Dione Couloir (1½–2hr).
It is also practical–and faster–to approach from the north end of the
Dione glacier by making 3 rappels from the shoulder at the foot of the
Southwest Spur, down the couloir below the face, and then to climb the
upper rock wall only. This will reduce the Alpine Grade from TD+ to TD.
For an approach by helicopter (as on the first ascent), it will probably be
necessary to land at a lower point on the spur, around 1910m elevation.
From there, cross onto moraines below the glacial basin and up to the
bergschrund (1h).
The time given reflects the time on the mountain only.
 Start up the couloir, then take the steepening right branching fork. A
waterfall through a short constriction may need to be turned on the right
via a pitch and a half (5.7), or climbed directly if iced, to a small snowpatch
at the base of the steep, imposing wall below the summit of Dione (1½h).
Gain the top of a prow of rock jutting into the snowfield via a snow
slope on the right. 1: Climb zigzagging ramps up a short wall to a terrace
(5.7, 20m). 2: Several metres to the left, a left-facing corner gained a
second terrace about 20m higher, which is followed back right to a prow
(5.8, 35m). 3: Step right into a pair of grooves and climb intricate, athletic
rock to another terrace (5.9, 50m). 4: Climb left-facing flakes above, then
make a tricky exit onto a narrow ledge below two sets of angled, yellow
roofs. Difficult climbing (peg) leads further right around a vertical rib then
down and across a steep, nubbly face (5.10b, 35m). 5: More corners and
slabs gain a superb, sunny ledge beneath a compact wall (5.9, 50m). At
this point the view begins to open out. 6: Move out left around a huge
block, then chimney and stem to a long, left-angling ramp overshadowed
by an impregnable wall, above which is a big square-cut alcove rising 20m
above its upper end (5.7, 55m). 7: Climb free and aid (about 8 points) to its
lower right corner, then move left to belay (5.9 A2, 40m). 8: Stem up the
corner forming the left side of the alcove, then step left and angle further
left across a slab (5.10, 30m). 9: Go up and left around a corner on moderate
ledges (5.7, 30m). 10: Climb a loose rib rightward to a crest, then break out
onto easy ground. Good bivy ledges (5.7, 60m). 11: Long slabs lead into a
big left-facing corner with an awkward section near its top (5.9, 60m). 12:
Continue up the corner through a little notch (low 5th, 20m). Climb directly
up ribs and corners to the summit (4th-5th, 3-4 pitches). (9–12h)
Gear: a full rack of wires, cams to 3½”: 10 pins, blades to ½”.
Descent: the standard Southeast Face route to the Dione Glacier (2–3h).
www.highcol.ca
 1-3: Climb the West Face for the first three pitches. 4: Face climb out
left off the belay to the edge of the yellow roof with minimal protection at
5.7. Stem up the corner below the second tier of roofs. Traverse left again
to easier ground that leads a large belay ledge (5.9, 55m). 5: Climb the
obvious corner system above. Initial jams here gave way to a couple of
aid moves that surmounted an overhanging wet crack on the first ascent.
Difficult jams in a thin corner above lead to another short section of aid.
Continue on easier ground to a good belay ledge (5.9, A1, 55m). 6: Climb
low 5th class ground to a slab below a steep headwall. Ascend friendly jam
cracks to an overlap exiting to the left. Belay in an alcove below another
steep corner system (5.9, 55m). 7: Lieback and stem up the corner to a
large flake. Break left into a short corner below a roof, thereby avoiding a
strenuous lieback around an overhanging flake. Hand traverse right on good
holds after breaching an overlap on marginal gear. A more direct line may
offer better protection. Above the roof, moderate crack climbing continues
to a steep blank corner capped with a second roof. Bypass right around it
onto the face on good holds with adequate gear until a nearly level with
the roof. Regain the crack line above the roof and continue to a good belay
stance (5.10b, 60m). 8: Climb broken ground to a good belay ledge, rejoining the Original Route somewhere on this pitch, likely pitch 10 of that
route (low 5th, 40m). (9–12h).
Continue as for Original Route to the summit.
19
Dione Couloir
D ice, 5.8
(8–11h)

20p
Ward Robinson, Mike Weitzel; August 1977
This is the steep, classic couloir that cleaves the west face between
Tantalus and Dione: best mid-July to late August. Little is known about it,
other than that it is probably better and harder than generally thought, and
raked with stonefall.
Approach: as for West Face (see facing page) (1½–2hr).
 From the bergschrund, climb the couloir for 3-4 pitches to a major steepening. Later in the season this is likely to be exposed rock. A couple pitches
lead into the upper couloir, and then 6-9 pitches of steep snow/ice. About
60m from the top exit right onto broken ground and up to the Tantalus–Dione
col. Climb the exposed northwest buttress to the summit (3-4p, 5.7) (6–8h).
The first ascents of the climbs in this guide span 134 years: 1868 to 2000.
www.highcol.ca
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TANTALUS RANGE
TANTALUS RANGE
Mount Tantalus
39
2603m
This is the highest peak of the range, and it offers a day of fine
mountaineering and a worthy objective for any climber. Tantalus,
together with its neighbour Dione, sits at the top of the long Tantalus
crest, buttressed by a 300m eastern wall above the Rumbling Glacier,
a long northern ridge, and a hidden 800m west face. This highly
visible alpine crest is one of the most admired views from Highway
99 between Squamish and Whistler.
As you gain the final ridge leading to the top, or worry about
routefinding on the steep descent, consider that the first ascent of this
peak was made via the Rumbling Glacier almost 100 years ago by
Basil Darling, J.Davies and A.Morkill, in 1911, who had bushwhacked
their way to the alpine from the dock at Squamish.
Times given assume a start and return to Red Tit Col [6, 8, 9,
10] (pages 35-36) . The range of times given for climbs on the west
sides of Tantalus and Dione include a helicopter approach.
www.highcol.ca
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20
TANTALUS RANGE
TANTALUS RANGE
Southeast Spur
AD+
4th
(9–12h)
41
3½km/550m
Basil Darling, J.Davies and A.Morkill; 1911, via the Rumbling Glacier and the Darling Couloir.
A. Parke, K.Winter; 1962, via the Red Tit col.
The standard route, a longtime classic of mountaineering in southwest BC
which is popularly done from the Red Tit col. The 1911 first ascent party
came up the Rumbling Glacier, an approach not really practical today.
Approach: From the Red Tit Col [6, 8, 9] (pages 35-36), as for the
Southeast Face on Dione (page 162), to the high snow shoulder below
the summit tower of Dione (4–5h). The standard route to Tantalus begins
at that point.
 Two routes to the summit are described. It is first necessary get around
Dione by dropping down on the north side of the high snow shoulder and
then choosing between the High Route, a more complex traverse line
around the Witch's Tooth, or the Low Route, which is more straightforward
but involves more terrain. Of the two, the High Route is perhaps the
better ascent route for quality of line and exposure, gaining the full blast
of exposure down the 800m west face, and the Low Route is best for
descent. Getting off the snow of Dione’s high south shoulder onto the
rock, and then back again on the return, can be problematic, especially by
the lower route. A steep, broken slot between the ice and rock can often
develop as the season advances.
High Route: drop down a short distance north of the high snow col,
then cross onto the rock where the bergschrund allows, to reach a flat step
on Dione’s eastern spur. Descend its north side by tricky downclimbing to
the base of the Witch’s Tooth. Make a rising traverse on the upper of two
ledges across the east face of the Witch’s Tooth, and then rappel 15-20m
down into the Darling Couloir, the key passage from the Rumbling Glacier
to the summit for the first ascent party in 1911. There are now two options:
climbing the ridge-crest to the summit; or a slightly lower traverse line on
the east side. For the ridge-crest, climb the couloir to its top, immediately
north of the Witch’s Tooth, then work up rightward through interesting terrain
along the ridge to the summit, crawling behind a block at one point. Or;
drop another 10m or so down the Darling Couloir, then exit out right to a
steep finish onto the east face, which is most easily climbed by traversing
right some distance before turning upwards toward to summit (4th).
Low Route: Drop down about 100m or so from the high col until
close to a big bergschrund, cross onto the rock (perhaps with considerable
difficulty later in the season) to gain a system of ledges and ramps that
leads down further yet to the base of the Darling Couloir. It is possible to
climb this feature to link with the High Route above; or continue right to the
base of a deep chimney-gully. Climb 2-3 pitches up here until easy terrain
allows an escape off to the summit tower (4th) (2–3h).
Descent: the Low Route is the most straightforward in descent. One
or two steep rappels and some downclimbing in the deep chimney-gully
will reach the ramps and ledges that lead back up to Dione’s east spur.
Getting onto the ice can be difficult later in the season. Once achieved,
climb easy slopes to Dione’s high snow col, and then descend to the
Dione Glacier as per the approach to the Southeast Face of Dione (3–4h).
www.highcol.ca
After the bivouac at the start of the Tantalus Traverse.
Climber: John Willcox
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TANTALUS RANGE
TANTALUS RANGE
www.highcol.ca
www.highcol.ca
43
44
21
TANTALUS RANGE
TANTALUS RANGE
D+ 5.9
1968 Route
(12–18h) 
20-24p
Bob Cuthbert, Gary Kozel, Alice Purdey; 1968
This climb takes a bold, weaving path up the pillars and couloirs of the
impressive 800m west face. Although it has never been popular, largely due
to poor rock, it has the potential to be an excellent winter route. Mostly
at a moderate grade, but with the crux high on the route: committing.
Approach: From the north end of the Dione Glacier [6, 8, 9, 10] (pages
35-36), or helicopter [11] (page 36) (1½–2hr).
 Start up the broken buttress immediately left of the Dione Couloir, and
climb for about 6–8 pitches to the top of a tower. Climb down it, then
pass a pinnacle to gain a crest beyond. Cross the big couloir on the left to
a major ledge system, and then via easier climbing for 4–6 pitches to low
angle terrain. Ledges lead up to the base of a wall which forms a large
tower. Climb the wall to the top of the tower. Rappel 45m free to the deep
col beyond, and then go about 20m up and right to climb a difficult crack
(5.9), and from its top, continue up and right to the summit. This pitch took
3½ hours to lead on the first ascent. (8–12h).
22 Kay–Mannix
 20-24p
TD mixed, 5.9
(12–18h)
Bruce Kay, Dan Mannix; April 1994
This is a superb mixed route, first climbed in early spring when this face
is perhaps at its best for quality climbing. Start early.
Approach: As for the 1968 Route above (1½–2hr). A helicopter approach
was made on the first ascent.
 1-3: Start up the first couloir left of the great Dione Couloir, and climb
ice hoses up until possible to exit left onto the buttress of the West Face
Direct (3p, W3+). 4-9: Climb a long, sustained rib left of a deep couloir to
low angle terrain and a junction with the 1968 Route (5.8, mixed). 10-11:
Climb a ledgy section to the base of a large, prominent tower: bivy sites
(mixed, 5.7). 12: At the base of the tower, rappel into the couloir behind.
13: Climb the couloir (mixed). 14-15: Steep rock leads out of the col
behind the tower to the base of the final, easier headwall (5.9/A1). 16-17:
Snowslopes to the top (9–12h).
Or, as on the first ascent (in April), take steep slopes down the northeast
side of the peak, and flog over the glacier to the Alpha–Serratus col,
then down to Lake Lovely Water (4–5h).
23
West Face Direct
D+ 5.7 (5.9)
(12–18h) 
20-24p
John Howe, Chris Blann, B.Blann, R.Barr; August 1978
A climb which provides a major direct line to join the West Face, but
abandonned at the summit of the tower due to bad weather.
Approach: As for the 1968 Route above (1½–2hr).
 Starting at the lowest rocks of the west face, this direct line follows a
series of buttresses to join the 1968 Route at the series of ledges and
terraces below the final tower. The route was completed to the top of the
tower only (5.7). From there, continue on the 1968 Route (8–12h).
www.highcol.ca
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45

Alpine Select

Transcription

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