VW GOLF Mk4 TDI FRONT MOUNTING INTERCOOLER INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS Tools required: 10mm/13mm socket and 3/8 drive ratchet with extension Torx T20/25/30 screwdrivers or bits Phillips head screwdriver, small slotted screwdriver 3mm allen key or screwdriver 10mm spanner (ideally a ratchet spanner) 7mm hose driver Dremel or hacksaw 1. Jack the car up, secure it on axle stands and open the bonnet. Insert a small screwdriver into the bonnet release lever where it joins the mechanism, and twist to release the lever. 2. Undo the screws on each side of the grille, then pull the grille upwards to release the tab from the bumper and remove it from the car. 3. Working in each wheel arch, undo the four T25 screws securing the wheel arch liner to the bumper. You may need to turn the wheel a little in order to gain access. 4. Remove each of the bumper side vents by pulling them forwards, then undo the 12 or 13mm bolt (depending on model) securing the bumper to the crash bar. Remove the air temperature sensor from behind the passenger side vent. 5. Remove the five T30 bolts holding the top edge of the bumper to the car. 6. With one hand supporting the bumper, pull the bumper away from the wheel arch with your other hand to free it from the plastic clips, the repeat for the other side, and remove the bumper from the car. 7. Remove the drivers side headlight by removing the electrical connection on the rear, then undo the two T25 screws on the top and two underneath to remove the light. 8. Undo the two 10mm bolts holding the intercooler to the inner wing, and disconnect the MAP sensor wiring by squeezing the rear of the connector to remove it. MAP sensor wiring 9. Undo the lower 10mm bolt holding the intercooler to the lower mounting bracket. 10. Remove theintercooler inlet and outlet hoses by placing a small screwdriver under the raised section of the locking clip and prising it up, releasing the hose. There are actually two clips on the inlet and two on the outlet, as the intercooler is mounted via short couplers. All four will need to be undone, but two can be removed with the intercooler off the car. 11. Remove the bonnet mechanism support entirely by removing the two T30 screws holding it to the crash bar, plus two T25 screws and one T20 screw at the mechanism itself, or if you don’t wish to realign the catch afterwards, cut through it with a hacksaw at the point shown below. Or cut here
12. Remove the crash bar by undoing the two 13mm bolts on each end. You may wish to support the radiator plastic surround on a jack using a plank of wood, as this will maintain the alignment of the crash bar to the chassis when you come to install the Forge bar. 13. Mount the Forge crash bar and bolt it up to the chassis, before releasing the jack. 14. Remove the bracket that held the stock intercooler into the car. This is easier said than done, the two bolts you need to remove are under the washer bottle, but access is limited so you will need to raise the washer bottle a little, and to do this you will need to remove the bonnet cable protector. Firstly remove the two plastic nuts securing the washer bottle. Washer bottle top nut Washer bottle bottom nut
Remove the two small phillips head screws securing the bonnet cable protector, and pull it out from under the wing. This will give you the clearance to move the washer bottle off its mountings. Bonnet cable cover front screw Bonnet cable cover top screw
15. Pull the windscreen washer reservoir upwards and slightly forwards to enable access to the two 10mm bolts holding the intercooler bracket to the car. Remove the bracket. 16. Place a 50mm straight silicon coupler onto the top hose outlet of the intercooler, and position two jubilee clips loosely in the orientation shown below. HINT : If any hoses are a tight fit, you will find using some silicon spray on the inside of the hose e.g back to black/cockpit shine will lubricate the hose and make it easier to fit. DON’T use oil or washing up liquid. 17. Using two M6x20 hex head bolts and two penny washers, mount the intercooler to the crash bar loosely, with the 50mm coupler in the crash bar recess. 18. Loosely fit the aluminium pipe with the oval adaptor (for the MAP sensor) into the 50mm coupler, by sliding the pipe in from the drivers side of the crash bar. 19. Assemble the short aluminium pipe with aluminium coupler on the end into the 135 degree silicon elbow, with jubilee clips to suit, but not tightened. You may need to rotate the coupler in the bend in step 21 so lubricating spray may be handy. 20. Retrieve the top coupler you removed in step 10, and using a pick or small screwdriver, lever out one of the rubber o‐rings taking care not to damage it, and put it in the Forge coupler you assembled in step 19. Make sure the o‐ring isn’t twisted as you install it, and that it’s the right way round. 21. Place the Forge coupler into the socket behind the headlight (it will only fit in one way so rotate it if necessary), then push hard until the locking ring clicks into place. Twist the 135 deg bend upwards and connect it to the pipe coming from the intercooler. When all the joins have at least 30mm of aluminium pipe inside the silicon, tighten the jubilee clips. 22. From the stock intercooler, unscrew the MAP sensor with a Phillips head screwdriver. Ensure the rubber o‐ring is in good condition, then push it into the MAP sensor adaptor supplied. Route the MAP sensor wiring over the aluminium tube and out under the headlight, then put the MAP sensor into the top pipe (note the orientation shown below), secure it with the two M5x16 screws supplied using a 3mm allen key. 23. Remove the ‘pancake’ pipe in the wheel arch area by undoing the 10mm nut holding the bracket (keep this for later use) and then prising up the locking clip on the hose (like in step 10). Remove the rubber o‐ring from the end of the hose connected to the turbo. 24. Push a 50mm silicon coupler over the metal connector until its snug up to the end of the connector, then tighten with a jubilee clip. 25. Place a jubilee clip loosely over the other end of the 50mm coupler, then insert the end of the Forge replacement pancake pipe into it. Secure the pipe on the spare threaded rod on the chassis by using the 10mm nut you removed in step 23. Spare threaded rod on chassis 26. Finally, connect the remaining 90 deg silicon bend between the end of the pancake pipe and the lower pipe on the intercooler with jubilee clips– NOTE that the lower intercooler pipe is ovalised for a reason, it hasn’t been damaged. With everything connected, go round the whole intercooler pipework and tighten all the jubilee clips. 27. Remove the centre grille from your stock bumper and insert the Forge modified centre and driver side grille (supplied). Mark a line using the Forge grilles as a template, and cut out from the rear of the stock bumper using a dremel or hacksaw, then refit the centre grille. 28. Attempt to refit the bumper loosely. If you have an aftermarket bumper, or one from another model (e.g. R32),the bumper will not push back far enough or is fouling on the lower intercooler pipe, then the lip on the radiator surround behind the lower pipe can be cut back with a padsaw (without removing the intercooler) or dremel (with the intercooler removed). The intercooler bolts can then be slackened to push the intercooler back. This area can be cut back as shown If you do have an R32 bumper, the mountings are slightly different in that the bumper is secured by means of one of the crash bar bolts each side (see step 12). In this case the fixing needs to go up and over the lower intercooler pipe which can make refitting difficult without the help of an assistant. 29. The intercooler install is now complete. Ensure all hose connections are tight. Follow steps 6‐1 backwards to refit the bumper, then lower the car to the ground and enjoy your new intercooler ! ENGINEERED FOR PERFORMANCE