shame``
Transcription
shame``
76 Spring 2015 THE MIGHTY FINN Artist rugs are nothing new – but Henzel Studio’s collection based on Tom of Finland’s homoerotic drawings pushes the boundaries. Natasha Randall reports 77 Issue 38 02 03 01 Tom of Finland, Untitled, 1978. Henzel Studio Heritage. Hand knotted rug, Himalayan wool & silk. Free-form, 2.15 x 2.4m. © Tom of Finland Foundation 02 Tom of Finland, Untitled, 1977. Henzel Studio Heritage. Hand tufted rug, New Zealand wool. 1.7 x 2.45m. © Tom of Finland Foundation 03 The original Tom of Finland drawing, 1977 © Tom of Finland Foundation T his season the Swedish rug maker Henzel Studio is launching Henzel Studio Heritage, a new collection of carpets designed in collaboration with the foundations of some of the most influential artists of the 20th century. Starting with Tom of Finland, the rugs feature homoerotic scenes as illustrated by the artist. With last year’s release of Tom of Finland stamps by the Finnish Post Office, a number of museum exhibitions as well as a biopic in the works, the timing is spot on. Bound to cause a frisson in the world of rugs, the collection will have its debut at Colette Gallery on Rue Faubourg Saint-Honoré in Paris this spring, opening on 23 March. In the words of Henzel Studio’s curator, Joakim Andreasson, ‘these images have gone from under the covers to the chic-est street in the world.’ Henzel has tended towards the rug-as-art form since the company’s inception in 1999, following the vision of Calle Henzel and producing several artist-designed rugs curated by Andreasson. Henzel Studio Collaborations oversees these projects, allowing its guest designers maximum creative licence. It has thus brought into floor textiles designs by creators such as Helmut Lang, Anselm Reyle, Marilyn Minter, Jürgen Teller and Jack Pierson. The resulting rugs are bold expressions of the artist’s oeuvre. Nudes on rugs are not new to the team. Teller’s bare portrait of UK fashion designer Vivienne Westwood caused quite a stir. Whereas the Westwood carpet originated from a photograph, the majority of Tom of Finland’s rugs are based on his beautiful ‘‘ His goal was to portray gay men as happy and confident, and to remove any shame ’’ 78 79 Issue 38 04 05 08 preparatory sketches, many of which have never been publicly displayed. Tom of Finland, born Touko Laaksonen in 1920, is widely regarded as one of the most influential artists of recent times due to his revolutionary representation of the male figure. He became legendary for his erotic gay scenes, portraying nude and leather-clad men with exaggerated sex organs. He is understood to have influenced Freddie Mercury, Robert Mapplethorpe and other gay public figures in the late 20th century. His goal was to show gay men as happy and confident, and to remove any shame associated with homosexuality, creating an empowering queer iconography. 07 04 Original Tom of Finland artwork, 1980. © Tom of Finland Foundation 05 Tom of Finland, Untitled, 1980. Henzel Studio Heritage. Hand tufted rug, New Zealand wool, 1.65 x 2m. © Tom of Finland Foundation 06 Tom of Finland, Untitled, 1979. Henzel Studio Heritage. Hand tufted rug, New 06 Zealand wool, 1.7 x 2.45m. © Tom of Finland Foundation 07 Original Tom of Finland artwork, 1979. © Tom of Finland Foundation 08 Collages of original Tom of Finland artworks, used for ‘art pillow’ designs, Henzel Studio Heritage. © Tom of Finland Foundation UNDERGROUND NOTORIETY In his early career, many of Tom’s images were deemed illicit and, as such, gained an underground notoriety. Increasingly, though, his work was published in the mainstream, in magazines such as Physique Pictorial – particularly those images that did not contain explicit sexual acts but depicted strong, athletic, square-jawed, broad-shouldered men. His subjects were cops, sailors, soldiers, cowboys, bikers and lifeguards. Often he drew from a variety of different life models to create his quasi-fantastical males. Laaksonen explained in a documentary film about his work (called Daddy and the Muscle Academy) that much of his inspiration came from his youth in Finland. At that time the country was highly militarised, after a civil war and in reaction to its aggressive Soviet neighbour, and national service was compulsory for young men. So, as an adolescent he was surrounded by soldiers in uniform, marching with a sort of patriotism that Laaksonen found appealing. Tom of Finland died of complications from emphysema in 1991, but his residence and archive have been maintained as a centre for the homoerotic arts. With regard to the Henzel rug series, Andreasson says, ‘This was bringing to light rarely seen drawings that particularly suit the textile medium. We are always adamant to not just slap artwork on a product. It is an art-rug collection and not a rug collection reproducing art.’ There are twelve hand tufted rugs in the collection and one hand knotted carpet, all made from silk and wool. Many of them depict explicit scenes of a sexual nature – including one that has informally been coined the ‘f**k rug’ (for obvious reasons). ‘It was important to stay true to the artist’s body of work, regardless of content’, says Andreasson. Reimagining these images as rugs was directly inspired by the interiors of the Tom of Finland Foundation, or ‘TOM House’, as it’s known – pictures and collages are plastered randomly on the walls and integrated into the furnishings in a way that is both homely and titillating. ‘It’s a kind of gay utopia, a place that has been shaped by the many artists who have walked through its doors,’ Andreasson says. One of the first of the Henzel rugs is now in the house: a tactile reminder of Tom of Finland. byhenzel.com tomoffinland.com ‘Henzel Studio: Collaborations/Heritage. Limited edition art rugs and pillows’, Colette Gallery, 213 Rue Saint-Honoré 75001 Paris, 23 March-18 April 2015