Join the adventure www.touratech.co.uk
Transcription
Join the adventure www.touratech.co.uk
Issue 168 July 2012 WWW.THERIDERSDIGEST.CO.UK From the editor... OK, I’m on my scooter at a red light on the North Circular, at the spot near Arnos Grove where the trunk road swings sharply east. To my right there’s a Subaru WRX sitting on ultra low profile tyres. Next to him is the pitch-black R1 that had roared past me so imperiously on a straight section a few miles back. Its pilot sits there like the picture perfect dark knight, with lid, visor, one-piece leathers and boots all matching his steed. As the little green striding pedestrian disappears to be replaced by a stationary red one, the twenty something driver of the Scooby smiles at his girl and increases the rumble from his big bore exhaust; the man in black snicks the Yamaha into gear; and I hit the ‘Sports mode’ button on the Burgman. The traffic is stationary in every direction before the amber light joins the red and it’s like a starter dropping his flag. Technically, sitting in the left-hand lane the way I was, I should have been going straight on; but as any student of the road will tell you, if you’re negotiating a right-hander, you want to enter it from as far across on the left as you can. It was the fact that Johnny Cash hadn’t thought of that that tempted me into seeing if I could prick a hole in his ever so obvious 2 arrogance. It was apparent within the first few yards that the car wasn’t even in it, so flipped the scoot to the right and accelerated hard towards the point on the road that I’d chosen to take me around the outside of the bike. I allowed a substantial margin of error just in case its rider made the same mistake as the wanker on the big KTM a few days earlier, who completely underestimated how quickly a scoot can pull away from the lights and cut right across my line on a roundabout causing me to brake sharply and swerve to avoid T-boning him! But there was no danger of that with the R1 as I was already right out front before I reached the apex and he clearly had no idea how to stop me riding around him and accelerating away. OK, so he shot past me when it all straightened up but I’d made my point by then and to be honest he looked like he was trying to escape embarrassment rather than attempting to emphasise a misplaced sense of superiority the way he had earlier. It was all very childish and entirely pointless but that didn’t detract from the swirl of amusement and satisfaction that tickled me all the way to my mum’s place in Walthamstow. I couldn’t help thinking that the only way I could have shown him up any more thoroughly, would have been if I’d done the same thing two-up! A few hours later I was heading home with Wendy on the pillion after deciding that the bands at Jim’s birthday bash were a bit loud for a couple of oldies like us (well it was Jim’s 35th!) so we’d head home and catch a couple more episodes from our newly arrived The Wire box set. The long straight between Kings Cross and the Edgeware Road was rammed but I took full advantage of the 24/7 bus lane and soon we were accelerating onto the A40 elevated. Why has the speed limit been lowered to 40mph on the Westway? It has six lanes, Armco, and a hard shoulder, the same as any motorway, so why doesn’t the national speed limit apply? Rather than expend a whole load of brainpower pondering the arbitrary thinking behind that one, I chose to concentrate on my roadcraft while I made progress much as I always have. When I pulled up to push a loose ear bud snugly back into place, Wendy wrapped her arms round me and jiggled affectionately, which was her way of WWW.THERIDERSDIGEST.CO.UK letting me know that she was thoroughly enjoying our emphatic charge across town. She couldn’t verbalise it because with both my RHA ‘noise isolating’ buds properly located once again, I couldn’t hear anything above the Wombats singing Let’s Dance To Joy Division on the soundtrack we were sharing (courtesy of a 95p audio splitter). We rolled rapidly around the one-way system at Hammersmith with a Gladys Knight ballad whispering gently in our ears, illustrating once again that the beat of the song doesn’t necessarily effect the tempo of the ride; and from there right through until I rolled off the throttle approaching a red light in Mortlake our tempo was very much prestissimo. A black Fazer thou pulled up alongside and I turned to give the rider my best carin’ sharin’ we’re all on two wheels smile, which he returned with an everso-slightly contemptuous grimace that seemed to say, “Yeah but mine are just so much butcher, better and faster than yours!” I squeezed Wendy’s left knee affectionately, clicked the Suzi into ‘Sports mode’ and launched it the moment the lights changed. The chap on the Yammy was clearly taken by surprise because he was way back in my mirrors by the time I reached a reasonably outrageous speed and stopped accelerating. ISSUE 168 July 2012 He was even further back after we’d despatched a smallish roundabout and was still behind us when we stopped at a red light at Richmond Circus. I was first off the line again but as I approached the neat right-left at the other end of the green a crawling car baulked me. I didn’t know how quickly the other bike would negotiate the kink or whether he would anticipate a swift lane change on my part, so I decided – as I always do if there’s any uncertainty – to wait for him to ride past, which he did; eventually. I was right alongside him as we crossed the river, then slowed for the speed camera without resorting to braking before jamming the throttle on the stop as the road swung to the right and we rode around his outside. At the following roundabout he was too intent on the lights to even gaze in our direction but he ended up with a great view of the Burgman’s fat arse-end as we rode around his outside again before accelerating hard into the empty inside lane and away. There was no problem moving across to pass a car this time because I could see him in my left-hand mirror. Moments later we were at yet another roundabout and I backed off briefly to allow a flurry of cars to clear from the right. That was as close as the Fazer got before I nailed it around the greenery and left him floundering in our wake once again. We were stopped at a red light waiting to turn right when he caught up again and although I turned to offer him another smile, he sailed past on our left without so much as a wave, which I thought was a tad unfriendly but there you go, it takes all sorts I guess. We rode sedately along the residential streets from the A316 back to our place and were indoors a matter of minutes later, cuddling cosily and laughing out loud at what an exhilarating ride home it had been. Later I couldn’t help wondering if I ride a motorcycle because I have a bit of a Peter Pan streak, or if it was that two wheels and an engine arrangement that caused the problem in the first place? In the end I decided that as I’ve spent my entire ‘adult’ life riding bikes, it was a bit pointless trying to separate the two; that I should simply accept that at the age of 57 I am whatever I am and just be grateful that I have my very own Wendy Darling to share such juvenile pleasures with. Dave Gurman Catch Dave every Thursday between 6 and 8pm (GMT) on www.bikerfm.co.uk 3 Contents... 7. In the Saddle Shaft drive scuttlebutts and satisfied subscribers 25. The Boy Biker It’s an L of a life for learners 11. Rider’s Lives A popular pro 27. Nuts & Bolts Getting your electrics into a solid state 12. Image of the Month Paul Shoesmith does an Evel Knievel 14. Six & the City A desperately damp drought 17. Return To Cuba Lyn delivers reading materials to LAMA Cuba Editor Dave Gurman Assistant editor Peter Martin Design Simon Gardner Web site Stewart Pettey 4 28. Two Wheels To The End Of The World Moving through Mexico 57. The Illusion Of Control Thomas gets all metaphysical 71. Touratech Travel Weekend The musings of a marshall 71. Panther Pioneer Sid Wilkinson’s seventy plus years in the saddle 82. Special K BMW bricks and boxers 94. In The Shadow Of The Tiger Blue88 goes for the low-key option 145. Book Review Self help books across the ages 157. Bitz Adventure travel films and something for the kids 120. Fastest Blez talks to filmmaker Mark Neale Contributors Tinks, Lyn Funnell, George Smith, Rod Young, Paul Browne, Thomas Day, Oldlongdog, Blue88, Martin Haskell, Paul Blezard, Jonathan Boorstein Cartoons Simon Kewer Photographs Blue88, Duncan Longden, Lyn Funnell, Paul Browne, Thomas Day, Peter Martin, Martin Haskell, Paul Blezard, Grant Gee, Stephen Potter, Azi Farni Contacts Editorial Dave Gurman +44 (0) 20 8707 0655 +44 (0) 7948 897093 [email protected] WWW.THERIDERSDIGEST.CO.UK 139. Motorcycle Girl Racer More from Dr Stukoff Kvak’s lab 67. Ask Lampkin Legal advice The opinions and comments of contributors within this magazine do not necessarily reflect the opinions of the editor. ISSUE 168 July 2012 Advertising Peter Martin +44 (0) 7973 818579 [email protected] 5 In The S addle... Dear Dave, Glad that you’re up and running again, albeit in a different format. However, Did the court wind-up apportion any monies to those who had just renewed their subscription & only got one issue for it? Best wishes, Ian Hunter Hi Ian, I was putting together the letters pages at the eleventh hour and I came across this and realised that I hadn’t replied to you – sorry, you got lost in a loaded mail bag. As I explained in the message I sent to every ex-subscriber I had an email address for, “I want to stress that the new version of TRD has nothing whatsoever to do with the company that went bust, or any of the 6 WWW.THERIDERSDIGEST.CO.UK ISSUE 168 July 2012 individuals who owned it at that time. It is an entirely new initiative starting from scratch with nothing but the name (which was free to pick up) and the great reputation that goes with it” – Ed Dear David, Thank you very much for your support, words alone cannot express how grateful I am, what your help really means to me, and or how far it goes in enabling me to actually continue training… I am now not only doing this for myself, but also for you who has helped me. Thanks again, and may good fortune be with you now and for the rest of your day’s… Yours gratefully, Paul Efeyana, Team GB Paralympian, South London My pleasure and honour Paul; good luck – Ed Hi Dave, Glad to see you back in the hot seat. I guess with your passion you couldn’t keep away. I must say I am really pleased to see the old style back with you in the chair. It was never the same after you stepped down as editor and lost its “feel” and “direction” when Alan Dowds took over as editor. Is it my imagination or have I read the Street Triple article in issue 166 before? The only improvement now is to get it back into print. I don’t think my company takes too kindly to printing 150 pages on the colour laser! Regards Choke - Kent 7 In The S addle... Thanks for your kind words Choke, I can’t tell you how much I would love to be able to produce a printed magazine but that is way beyond my very limited financial resources at this point. As for the Street Triple, yes indeedy you did. Although we have plenty of brand spanking new editorial arriving every month, I’ve included an occasional article from the old issues of TRD I edited when I felt they helped to balance the content in a particular issue – also they’ve all been damn good articles that I believed deserved exposure to a wider international audience – Ed Hi Dave, As I’m paging my way through your June issue, it becomes obvious to me that my favorite series comes from Paul Browne’s trip through the Americas. I am looking forward to his experience in Central and South America. His writing wasn’t exceptional at the beginning of his trip, but his style is evolving and becoming even more fun to read as he travels this country. Thomas Day Minnesota Motorcycle Monthly Magazine www.mnmotorcycle.com 8 Hi Dave, Those damnable ‘bucking’ BMW’s and Moto Guzzi’s. Oh dear Tom Stewart (Somme Explorer TRD 167) has been talking to some old wives. This fallacy comes up in discussion amongst the more thoughtful Guzzisti every decade or so and we laugh at those silly people who believe in it. If you blip the throttle in neutral at tick over a big block Guzzi will lurch to the right. This is flywheel torque reaction, which disappears as soon as you move off. If it is anything to do with the shaft drive you have a major mechanical fault on your hands as it should be stationary in neutral. For a good lesson in how much a chain drive buggers up a motorbike’s final drive watch a tank (has two massive chains on either side called tracks) or similar accelerating and braking. Then watch a 40 tonne lorry (shaft drive). Guess which one is far smoother. I must admit that a number of my friends have liked the Triumph Tiger and the lack of shaft drive has been the only thing putting them off. Well congratulations In The S addle... to Triumph for finally fitting a true engineering solution to the final drive. Perhaps they will have more success than the Japanese who have failed to break through the inherent conservatism of most motorcyclists. And only eighty years after most car/ lorry manufacturers saw the truth. For those who believe that chain drive is a must in sports bikes can I suggest you look at the newly relaunched British European American Racing Series. This is being led by a virtually road spec 1 litre 1990’s Moto Guzzi Le Mans with Rob Paget riding and fettled superbly by my good friend Andy (aged 4) Harris of Team Muzzi Racing. And this against some quite high tech more modern machinery. The rest of the article was good though and I particularly liked the fact that he felt he could admit to being over cemetery’d. You can become quite blasé about some incredible human suffering without meaning to or meaning any offence. To be honest without that ability the human race would have drowned in its own tears centuries ago. Ride Safe WWW.THERIDERSDIGEST.CO.UK An ancient Guzzisti Ian Dunmore P.S. I have just discovered an Arab philosopher Abu Ala Al-Ma’arri (937-1057) who I strongly believe you would like. Amongst his more memorable saying is “There are two types of people in this world, intelligent men without religion and religious men without intelligence.” By which he meant he disliked all dogma. So in the spirit of Abu Ala Al-Ma’arri I will say I found the Harley Davidson articles interesting. Hi Dave, We met at the A.M.O.C Spring Bash last weekend in Mitcham and you mentioned that if I wanted some copies of the pictures of my bike (the black “Recycled Panzer” BMW) to email you. I would appreciate if you could, please, send me the photos when you have the time and if it is possible. Thank you. I hope that you had a good time last Saturday. If you are looking to cover some good motorcycle events, there will be a very good Poker Run near Hastings on the Saturday 09/06/12 organised by the Norsemen MCC, this is their website: ISSUE 168 July 2012 www.norsemen-mcc.co.uk Where you will find the contact details if you are interested. Ride safe, Bill Hi Dave, Great mag, thanks. I have gone to the archive and cannot find the last issue, May 2012, # 166. I have been away and missed it. Is it possible to download it. Many thanks, Glen Hi Glen, sorry that issue wasn’t immediately available on the archive page, it was simply an oversight on our part. I know that you’ve got the PDF now but I thought I’d include your message just in case other readers are unaware that they can catch up on any of the digital issues that they’ve missed entirely free simply by visiting our archive page – Ed internet payments – can I send you a cheque? If so, to you personally or TRD? I do not want to continue to take a free ride. Regards Wyn West Wales Thanks for your kind words and for your donation (which I received by post) made out correctly to TRD – Ed Dave, Wonderful that you are back writing The Rider’s Digest again, without you TRD became mainstream and diluted. Regret that I’m stone age on donations as I don’t do 9 Rider ’s Lives benzina__ Name: Dan Walsh Benzina S I C A S C L I T A L I A N M O T O R C Y C L E S Issue 7 GIRL ON A (BLOODY FAST) MOTORCYCLE THE REAL COMEBACK KID ORIGINS BENELLI 500/4 HI-CAM GENIUS NIGHT MOVES UPSET MV&MAGNI IN THE END HALF BOOK 100% ITALIAN MOTORCYCLES 1 | B e nz ina Finally something you’ll want to read: (besides the Rider’s Digest - obviously) Benzina is a quarterly magazine showcasing classic Italian bikes in a high quality format. The 21 x 24 cm landscape layout shows motorcycles the way they’re meant to be seen. In fact Benzina is more like a book than a traditional magazine - heavyweight paperstock, 88 ad free pages and nothing that won’t be as relevant in a couple of years time as it is today, often with ground breaking stories and always with a love for the planet’s finest motorcycles. For more information and to buy visit teambenzina.co.uk benzina C L A S S I C I TA L I A N M O T O WWW.THERIDERSDIGEST.CO.UK R C Y C L E S 10 What was your first motorcycling experience? Sixteen, pillion on a K75 BMW ridden by Ian, my then-best-girl’s dad, into the Macclesfield hills. It felt impossibly, terrifyingly fast. After ten seconds I was swallowing screams and wanting to get off. After ten minutes I was whooping hollers and wanting us to go on, on, on. He encouraged my giddy teen obsession with something other than his daughter’s naked body by lending us a Honda Camino that we rode by the railway line, chasing trains, and then an oddball, Cagiva-built Harley SS125 two-stroke that we couldn’t get further than the drive without it seizing. We left anyway. What is your current bike? BMW Ex-Off-Road-Skills G650X that rides better than that reads. Lack of pillion provision and abundant appeal to Hulme joyriders means it gathers the dust ISSUE 168 July 2012 it should be kicking up, marooned in Speed Couriers’ Old Trafford warehouse. Daily ride’s an XJ600N, nicknamed ‘Shit Bike’ after passing scals tagged its flank with that sharpie slur. Fast as anything across town, comfy enough for cross-country jaunting and Spanish sauntering, & discreet enough for towerblock parking. An older R100/ XJR/Bandit looms. What bike would you most like to ride/own? Best bike I’ve ever ridden is the astonishingly-capable Dakar Rally Rep HP2. Best bike I’ve never ridden is any HRD Vincent. Following the Italian Moto Giro on a 900ss, I fell in love with a late model Black-Something or other that was being ridden not hidden, two-up across Umbria by adventurous Brits. Unfortunately, Vincents have become investments for them, not motorcycles for us. Instead, a realistic dream garage would be split across the world - an Enfield in Cochin, a Tenere in Seville, an XR600 in Buenos Aires, and an airhead Boxer in Manchester would be perfect. What was your hairiest moment on a bike? I don’t enjoy crashes nor crash stories. I’ve broken a leg, punctured a lung, cracked ribs. What was your most memorable ride? Mountains and coastlines are glorious, but motorcycling potentially creates memorable moments with every ride, and consequently crushes the need for nostalgia or ‘what ifs?’ What would be the ideal soundtrack to the above? Wind howl and airbox growl. Thump of a big single and the tickle of a happy couple. I don’t listen to music and ride, but Coltrane & Mogwai soundtrack the post-ride films that flicker round my in-bed head, and I’m bouncing along to Chin Loy’s Aquarius Dub while writing this. What do you think is the best thing about motorcycling? It’s the closest I’ve come to lucid dream flying while awake. What do you think is the worst thing about motorcycling? Every one of us has lost friends during this great escape Name an improvement you’d like to see for the next generation? Peace, bread & roses for all. How would you like to be remembered? I’d rather be doing the remembering. I intend to outlive every other fucker. 11 Photography ©Duncan Longden, all rights reserved 12 WWW.THERIDERSDIGEST.CO.UK ISSUE 168 July 2012 www.duncan-photo.com 13 Six and the City 14 WWW.THERIDERSDIGEST.CO.UK Wednesday “The rain in Spain falls mainly on the plain” Well, that’s all jolly good for the Spanish, whereas the rain in England falls mainly, well, everywhere. I was looking forward to finally getting in to my summer leathers and having a bit of a pose on the R6 whilst meandering through the traffic; big black sports bike, diminutive rider in skin tight black leather, long hair streaming out from my girlie lid with black visor. You get the picture. (Actually, I never ride with my hair loose ‘cos it gets so tangled up it can take hours to brush out) I have as yet to actually get out of my winter kit. It seems to be continuously steaming in the boiler room at work, or steaming whilst draped over the boiler at home. Today was no different. I made the 60 mile commute in to work and only encountered a small light spattering of the wet stuff. It was a rather pleasant journey with light traffic and the opportunity to make suitable progress. Boring as hell, mind. The return journey was quite the opposite. Having checked the live traffic reports (M25 – I hate filtering for 30 miles!), I decided to make a move, as it was currently clear. ISSUE 168 July 2012 As I walked out to my bike in the car park, the skies darkened and it started to rain. I made my way out onto the M4 in monsoonlike conditions and it wasn’t until I got onto the motorway that the folly of my decision to use my bike really hit me; the spray off the road had reduced the visibility to a few hundred meters, if that. I was on a black bike, wearing black (forgot my hiviz) and was nearly invisible against the dark grey sky and dark grey road. Although traffic wasn’t moving as fast as normal, it was still fast, and large trucks in particular were still moving at a rate of knots. I remained in the inside lane, constantly having to clear my visor (black – because I didn’t think to change it) and I was terrified that I was about to get wiped out at any second. The overhead screen between J11 and J10 informed me that my route around the M25 was at a standstill (deep joy) and I really had to get off the motorway as the riding conditions were appalling, so I took a gamble and came off the next junction and followed my nose down through some dual carriageways and on to the M3. By now the sun had come out and I was glad of the black visor as it was blindingly bright with the light reflecting off the wet roads. On the M3, conditions had improved and there was less traffic, however it was slowing up in front of me and I had to filter. If you’ve ever had to filter down the M3, then you know how bad the road surface is – the overbanding has crumbled away leaving pot holes and an uneven surface which does really scare me. Two hours later and I get home. Hornet Boy opens the door and takes a quizzical look at me, “Didn’t you get wet? ‘Cos you don’t look it” Yes I feckin’ well did get wet! Only it’s taken so feckin, long to get home I’ve almost dried off! So, getting back to the rain in Spain; if it falls mainly on the plain, then good – cos we’re off to tour around Andalucía. BMWmotohirespain, here we come and I for one can’t bloody wait! What’s the betting it rains? 15 RETURN TO CUBA Visit The Somme Battlefields and stay in the Best Biker’s Bed & Breakfast in Picardy L Martin and Kate Pegler Orchard Farm 80360 COMBLES, NORTHERN FRANCE TEL: 00333 22 86 56 72 EMAIL: [email protected] or visit www.martinpegler.com 16 ast month I was privileged to be invited back to Cuba for their annual FitCuba Fair. midnight, which was frustrating as the bikers meet on the seafront beside the Hotel Nacional every Saturday evening. It was hosted in Havana last year and that was where and when I’d first met the Latin American Motorcycle Association on their immaculate antique machines (see issue 165). But they knew that I was coming and on Sunday morning there they all were to meet me! It was funny to see them in their biker gear, parked outside the 5-star Hotel Quinta Avenida Havana, and they got many a bemused stare from the arriving and departing guests, especially when they held up the Union Jack I’d brought them! This year it was held on one of Cuba’s beautiful Atlantic islands, or Cayos as they’re called. And sadly, Cayo Santa Maria was too far for the bikes to travel. They’re getting quite old and fragile now and they are, of course, irreplaceable. On Saturday, 12th May, we all travelled back to Havana in our coach. We arrived at our hotel at WWW.THERIDERSDIGEST.CO.UK ISSUE 168 July 2012 Sunday 13th May was Mother’s Day and a far more important day than it is here, so it really was an honour that they’d turned up for my sake but they were determined to show their 17 18 WWW.THERIDERSDIGEST.CO.UK ISSUE 168 July 2012 19 20 WWW.THERIDERSDIGEST.CO.UK ISSUE 168 July 2012 21 gratitude for my article in April’s edition of TRD. Aside from the flag, I also presented them with back issues of the old printed version of The Rider’s Digest and a copy of the editor’s book, all of which were gratefully received. One of their Members, Max Cucchi, is an Italian photographer who lives and works in Cuba and owns a 1958 Harley-Davidson Duo-Glide. As well as the Cuban LAMA group, there’s a Harley group; the Harlistas Cubanos. They don’t have many members because, surprisingly, most of the old bikes are British-made Everyone knows about the old American cars in Cuba but the bikes are virtually unknown, which is a shame as they’re well worth seeing, 22 not to mention helping to preserve and keep roadworthy. Varadero is Cuba’s most famous beach and only 140km away from Havana. The LAMA bikers are always in need of, among other things, spark plugs, wing mirrors, and, most desperate of all now, tyres. Their tyres have been repaired so many times that they’re coming to the ‘end of the road’ – literally! The Presidente of the Cuba LAMA group, Adolfo Prieto Rosell www.lamacuba.com [email protected] +53 7 8733193 +53 5 2635467 Adolfo speaks perfect English. Cuba Tourist Board 154 Shaftsesbury Avenue London WC2H 8HL. 020-7240-6655 & speak to Isabel www.travel2cuba.co.uk [email protected] You’ll meet the bikers there! www.fitcuba.com Lyn Funnell Finally it was time for the bikers to go and spend the day with their mothers and families. One by one they said goodbye to me and roared away – slowly! Max’s photos can be seen on www.cubaphotogallery.net [email protected] Next year, the 33rd FitCuba is being held in Varadero, from the 7th-10th May. Make a note in your diary! WWW.THERIDERSDIGEST.CO.UK ISSUE 168 July 2012 23 s ee No l F rra fe Re Rider Accident Suppor t Freephone 08081 296051 Not all claims services are the same. Thankfully, you have a choice to contact us first. • Specialist motorcycle accident solicitors • Nationwide network of partner motorcycle dealers • Complete service from start to finish aimed at handling all aspects of your claim • Transfer your case from insurance appointed solicitors - it’s free and easy to do • £250 bike accessory vouchers to help get you back on the road • £100 bike accessory vouchers when you recommend a friend • True no win, no fee - you’ll never see a bill from us • Customer charter - we look after you and your bike • No deductions from any settlement, you keep 100% of whatever amount we recover Make the right choice Accident Claim Service Bike Recovery & Storage Repairs Vehicle Hire Replacement Helmet & Clothing british federation british motorcyclists motorcyclists federation rideraccidentsupport.co.uk freephone 08081 296051 Lampkin & Co - Motorcycle Accident Solicitors are proud to be a corporate member of the bmf. 24 WWW.THERIDERSDIGEST.CO.UK The Boy Biker L-eave it out. T here are a lot of noises to keep an ear out for when riding a bike. The tell tale schwosh schwosh, letting you know you’ve over adjusted your brakes, or worse, that your drums are oval. A slightly revvier and yet more hollow sounding engine, time to go on reserve, or if (like me) you’ve been on reserve a few days already, time to start looking for a watering hole, and quick! An irritating click or slap on the outside of your lid, better stop and do up whatever undergarment is now wildly flapping around over your collar and obstructing your view in the mirror. A heart stopping grumble that you can feel through the seat of your pants, better get ready for that skip lorry that’s bumbling up your outside. But as a learner, there is a noise that causes deep aggravation and can very easily end up putting you in more trouble than anything engine or rider related. This sound lets you know it’s time to shell out another 4 quid; this sound lets you know that the next ‘random stop’ is probably very soon and lets you know that once again, those bastards at ScreenFlow have let you down. The sound I am banging on about is, of course, the plastic snap and slide. Your L plate spins wildly along the road behind you, to ISSUE 168 July 2012 throw some poor motorcyclist or cyclist into confusion as they momentarily lose all traction. Made even worse if, like me, you’ve taken to mounting L plates on sheet metal to at least TRY and get a week out of them. The law states, learner riders (on a C.B.T) must display plates on the front AND back of the bike, not on the mudguard facing the sky, nor on the back of your helmet. They must be B.S (British standard, not Bull Shit), not modified in anyway, and I am, according to one of the Met’s finest, mad for thinking I could get away with one printed on photo paper and mounted on steel plate. Heavy fines, depending on if the officer got his doughnuts that morning or not, and two points PER MISSING PLATE, await anyone who dares ride without, or who doesn’t immediately stop and replace the broken article. Now I’m not the type to try and flout laws for the sake of it, or to gain kudos, in fact, I usually stick to the letter of the law, especially when it comes to riding. But after 6 sets of plastic plates, two pulls and lots of brown-nosing, I’m getting a little sick of it! I know this isn’t a new complaint (so shoot me), having had many talks with older riders or mechanics, but it seems like a decent solution is as far away as it was when Fred Flintstone first started lessons. Loose fabric type L’s simply rip to shreds with the first stone, harder plastic ones are too brittle to withstand the air resistance at 60 mph, stiffened up types generally last a week or so, until the added weight causes the licence plate to snap, after that, the holes you drill in the mud guard snap, and any of the above, if your’e as stupid as me, will rattle themselves loose if fixed with the poxy yellow bolts supplied. The current ‘solution’, and I use the word tentatively, is a standard plastic plate, mounted on chequer-plate with super-glue AND rivets, held onto the bike in three, count ‘em, THREE points by two bolts, two in the standard place, just under the letters of the number plate, two on support rods attached to the number plate mounting bracket itself and then two at the bottom of the L-plate on rods attached to the top mounting. Sounds complex? it is! I can almost hear the cries from here, and I’ve heard them many times in real life, “Pass your bloody test then”, and I’m beginning to think, with the amount I’m shelling out on L-plates, that the circa £500 figure for the direct access bike test would be a worthwhile investment. 25 I CLICK TO WEBSITE just search for your model of bike you will be surprised how many parts we have www.wemoto.com 26 WWW.THERIDERSDIGEST.CO.UK Nuts & Bolts f you’ve been riding bikes for any time at all, you’ll have experienced some kind of electrical malfunction. This isn’t really all that shocking since bike electrics are generally more exposed to the elements (like the British Summer) and a lot more vibration than you’d get on a car. Combine rainwater and electrical current and you’ve got the makings of a dodgy connection from day one, which can manifest itself in an exasperating variety of different ways, from a nonfunctioning indicator to a completely dead bike. I use two methods to overcome these kinds of problems, so whenever I remake an electrical connection on a bike, it’s either one or the other, depending upon the situation. If I own the bike, I tend to make the connections permanent. To do this I use a combination of a soldered joint and heat shrink to protect it. This is as close to a 100% guaranteed solution for the life of the bike as you will ever get. The only disadvantage is that if for whatever reason you need to break the connection, you’ll need to cut the wire and remake the joint afterwards. If I don’t own the bike, I use Japanese bullet connectors (these are the very small type made from aluminium alloy). Again, I solder the wire into ISSUE 168 July 2012 both the male and female halves, then use the clear plastic shrouds which are made specifically to cover them. These bullet type connectors are designed for the wire to be crimped into place only, but the solder prevents the crimp from coming loose and provides a better electrical connection. I also apply a small amount of dielectric grease (ACF50 is also good) onto the bullets after soldering, which helps to keep corrosion at bay. Both of these methods may seem like overkill, but the amount of electrical problems on bikes that I’ve seen, which are down to poor connections, justify the few extra minutes required to take these extra measures. So, how does one go about soldering? It’s not difficult and anyone can do it. You’ll need a soldering iron, either electric or gas powered models are available, electric ones are cheap, gas powered ones more flexible but dearer. You’ll need a roll of electrical solder too of course. Take the two or more wires to be connected (if the wires that you need to connect are corroded, cut them back until you find clean copper) strip back about 5mm of the insulation on each using a wire stripping tool (the cutting edge of pliers or a knife can be used but it is slower). Cut a length of heat shrink, long enough to cover the whole joint and about 5mm either side of it, slip this over one of the wires and slide it away from where you will be soldering, as the heat generated will cause it to shrink. Twist the two halves of the wire together firmly, then you are ready to solder the joint. ‘Tin’ your hot soldering iron by applying a small amount of solder to the end until it melts and flows onto the tip. Hold the tinned tip of the iron onto the wire joint until it becomes warm enough, this should only take seconds. Then introduce the solder to the joint, it should flow all over the wire joint rapidly. Remove the iron and the check the joint. If all looks well, slide the heat shrink over the joint and using the heat from the soldering iron (but not the tip) warm the heat shrink up until it shrinks down and covers the joint. For soldering the bullet connections, crimp as usual, then solder using the above method where the wire is crimped onto the bullet. If you keep the tip of your soldering iron clean and always use fresh solder, you’ll find this a simple and effective way of ensuring that all your electrical joints are far better from now on. Happy Spannering! 27 Two Wheels To The End Of The World 28 WWW.THERIDERSDIGEST.CO.UK ISSUE 168 July 2012 29 Down Mexico Way T ecate is a small enough place as border towns go. Formalities are concluded quickly on the Mexican side where the guards seem content to let us through with little more than a cursory search of one of the bikes. Mike had told us that if security wanted to search our bikes we should give them the keys and leave them to it. His theory was that while they would be happy to stand over us and watch us empty our panniers and repack them all day long, they wouldn’t be bothered enough to do it themselves. I hand the officer my keys. He opens one pannier and looks inside without making any effort to search it. I’m slightly amazed at how right Mike is. We collect our tourist card documentation, rather like an American visa waiver, and travel into town to find the information centre. Instead of a building or office this turns out to be a map of the town with some symbols pasted to a sign in the main square. The place is beautiful. The architecture is classic cowboy movie Mexican; the smell of food being cooked on stands on the far side of the square is intoxicating and after a traditional meal of tacos and tamales, we jump on the bikes and head out of town. There is, unfortunately, a certain amount of confusion as the signage is, perhaps, not as clear as it could be and our GPS is now showing only main roads and the larger towns. We found our way, however, and eventually turned off the old highway onto a dirt road and start heading for the interior of the Baja peninsula. The road is initially quite good with a thin layer of sand to keep us on our manners. But it soon deteriorates. Our speed drops and with a pair of fully laden bikes including a tent, sleeping bags, air mattresses, cooking stove, extra petrol, a winter riding suit, medical pack, first aid kit, tool box, guide books, spare parts for our helmets, hiking boots, flip flops, assorted clothing, wash bag and towels weighing us down, it starts to turn into a long day. As the sand gets deeper, I find it tough to maintain 30 WWW.THERIDERSDIGEST.CO.UK ISSUE 168 July 2012 40kph. The front keeps going light and the back is stepping out with alarming frequency, which is particularly hard to predict because of the extra weight. Today, I think, is going to be a learning day. And to make matters worse we haven’t brought enough water with us. The sand is now in deep washes on either side of the road with two occasional tracks running down the centre. Forests of cacti rise up on either side of the road and stretch out to the horizon. We’ve been on the road for about two hours and haven’t seen anyone for ages, when two quads come towards us. We’re told that there may be water in a small stream fifty kilometres further, but 31 32 WWW.THERIDERSDIGEST.CO.UK ISSUE 168 July 2012 33 the shallowest part being in the dead centre of the track, which is where we choose to ride. While we are negotiating this with Maeve in front, a small jeep comes up behind me and seeing that I cannot pull in simply drives up the embankment of sand without even slowing down. I’m just thinking how impressive a piece of driving this is when I become enveloped in his cloud of dust. Foolishly, I let off the throttle, the front digs in and the bike slews lazily across the track before hitting the deeper sand, coming to a dead stop and sending me over the bars. Luckily, I’m not hurt, it’s like falling onto a mattress and it gives both me and the bike a soft landing. The big GS lazily settles into the sand on its left hand side rather than falling over. It’s completely undamaged. As I lift it back up I can see the guy in the jeep is reversing back to me. He stops and jumps out as I get the bike upright. the next town is not much more than eighty kilometres away. Our progress is so slow, it may as well be on the moon. Continuing, the road turns and drops and climbs, across dried riverbeds and through more cactusfilled valleys. We see grand gateways to ranches but no farmland or houses. The stream we were told about has run dry and is now little more than a mud stain along the road. We ride down a water run-off. There is no sand here, but the deep cracks in the earth are two feet wide in places and need to be negotiated with caution. All the time the landscape remains amazing. Mountains climb in the distance and there isn’t a cloud in the sky. Riding out of another riverbed we see a house in the distance. We ride up to it and ask the man of the house for some water. He seems 34 So there we are, miles from nowhere, my first ‘off’ in a long time, unable to speak the language, and not quite lost but not quite sure where I am, when this guy comes back up the road to me. He’s a little taller than me and he’s wearing a pair of old jeans and a Stetson hat. He’s wears no shoes and no shirt. His skin is the colour of mahogany. Across his chest, he has a tattoo of Christ on the cross and on his face he has a very, very worried look. I introduce myself in my terrible Spanish and after apologising profusely he asks me if I need any water or petrol. I assure him that I don’t and he points to the bike and the sand. He says something else that I don’t understand. I assure him that I’m OK, but he doesn’t head on until after I fire up the bike. We continue on, fighting with the sand and our bikes until we reach the town of Ojos Negros. I don’t know what you think, but in my opinion, calling your town ‘Black Eyes’ is pretty cool. not to mind me butchering his language and obliges. While the building is a simple affair, built from local stone and mud, he has a very expensive looking white supercharged Range Rover parked outside. I make sure to express my gratitude as clearly as I can and make a point of not asking him what he does for a living. We ride onwards on a raised, sand free area of road and in the distance I’m heartened to see a junction with another dirt road with phone lines running alongside. We must be near a relatively big town. As the road drops down to the junction it becomes clear that it’s completely covered in deep sand with a light powdery consistency, rather like talc. When we join it our big bikes become extremely difficult to ride. The front ends alternately start to dig in or get light making the bike unsteerable. The sand sweeps up on either side forming a huge berm with WWW.THERIDERSDIGEST.CO.UK ISSUE 168 July 2012 35 36 WWW.THERIDERSDIGEST.CO.UK ISSUE 168 July 2012 37 There doesn’t seem to be much to do here. A taco stand, a grocery store, a gasoline station, and a motel are about it. We refill the bikes and check into the hotel where we shower before heading out into the night for a taco. Even at night the heat is impressive. At the taco stand they have no menu so I mime badly that we would like some food badly. The waitress says something in Spanish that I don’t understand. We try again. We fail again. Eventually the poor woman gives up and walks off. I’m pleasantly surprised when she returns a few minutes later with the most delicious food I have ever tasted. We eat everything she puts in front of us and order more. The motel has cost us twenty-five US dollars for the night and the food cost us about four. So, feeling flush, we stop off at the grocery store to get some water. The store has a TV at the till and the whole family is watching the ‘Matrix 3’ movie in Spanish. I 38 WWW.THERIDERSDIGEST.CO.UK ISSUE 168 July 2012 stand with them watching the freeway chase scene, the one with the Ducati. Keanu seems better in Spanish somehow. I decide to test drive my entire Spanish vocabulary. Turning to the man of the family I quietly suggest, “Keanau, es un poco pajero, si?” I deem this to be a success when he throws his head back and bellows with laughter. “What was that about?” asks Maeve after we had left. “Nothing” I reply, “just building on some cultural similarities, that’s all.” We head back to the hotel for some welldeserved sleep; it’s not every day that you meet Jesus on the sandy road to Black Eyes and we’ve both had it. The following morning we got up, ate a basic breakfast from the store and upon reaching the end of the dusty main street we were delighted to discover the main road, Mex 1. 39 40 WWW.THERIDERSDIGEST.CO.UK ISSUE 168 July 2012 39 and colourful Mexican buildings,. The most striking of these is the Mission, a sun blistered 18th century church standing tall over the surrounding square. A bunch of Mexican banditos from a Hollywood western wearing sombreros and gun belts wouldn’t look out of place here. Our accommodation is a yurt, which, for the uninitiated, is a Mongolian tent. This tent, however, is tall enough to stand in, twenty foot across and furnished with antique furniture and a hardwood floor. Beside the door an air conditioner the size of a fridge silently competes with the midday heat. Our bikes sit outside, dust covered and tyre-worn in the shade of a grove of palm trees. The open panniers half unpacked look as lazy as I feel. It takes us three days to get going again. From San Ignacio, we travelled to Mulege where we stayed in a hotel run by a Mr. Don Johnson. While I made repeated requests to meet the great man, the staff were having none of it. “That’s the guy who was stalking Clint Eastwood” they would say to each other. “Sorry It was perfectly paved, lightly trafficked and wonderfully devoid of any significant straight bits. As we rode on the heat got hotter and the landscape more barren. We were running low on fuel when we came upon a derelict gas station in the middle of nowhere. Parked under the remains of the canopy were three BMW bikes and their riders. Beside them an old pickup with two twenty five gallon oil drums. We pulled in. The riders greeted us in English. They had been to the MotoGP and were on their way home to Puerto Vallarta on the Pacific coast of mainland Mexico. The guys with the pickup were selling petrol from the barrels. Pumping it out by hand into a measured jug they filled both bikes. We paid slightly less than US prices for the privilege. 42 Amigo, Senor Johnson is unavailable today.” Nevertheless we met an older gentleman at the bar who was confirmed to indeed be Elvis. It is widely acknowledged that he faked his own death and now spends most of his time in Baja, from where he runs a fleet of UFOs. This, thankfully, kept us going on the celebrity front. The staff roasted an entire pig for dinner and all the guests in the hotel ate together – delicious! The following day we rode on the eastern coast of Baja, the Sea of Cortez side. The road twists through the hills and climbs and falls through forests of cacti. We pass countless old pickup trucks, with most of them carrying people in the back! We pass Loreto and on to Tripui where we have read about a campsite. When we get there however, the campsite is long gone and has been replaced with an expensive resort. While we are trying to work out where to go next the manager, Christian, appears. We explain that we are looking for a campsite and we ask him if he can recommend anywhere. “Don´t worry” he says, ‘’you can camp on the lawn”. So we do. For three nights. For only seven We introduced ourselves to the riders, Pepe, Juan Carlos and Fernando, who were involved in the hotel industry and suggested that we come stay with them when we got as far as their town, which was two days’ ride and one day’s ferry trip away. We rode with the guys, their riding style was tight and predictable and they were easy to share the road with. By the time we got to San Ignacio in the middle of the desert the sun had got the better of us and the three lads, having a schedule to keep, kept going. We exchanged details and arranged to meet up in a few days time. San Ignacio, a small town in the heart of Baja, is where we find Ignacio Springs, a bed and breakfast owned and operated by a Canadian couple. The setting is an oasis in the middle of the desert surrounded by palm trees WWW.THERIDERSDIGEST.CO.UK ISSUE 168 July 2012 43 44 WWW.THERIDERSDIGEST.CO.UK ISSUE 168 July 2012 45 US dollars a night and, with the full use of all the hotels facilities. Meanwhile, the guests in the hotel have to look at our scabby tent on the front lawn of their $300 a night hotel. On day three Christian asks me to give him a lift into the nearest big town so that he can lodge the hotel’s takings in the bank. When we get back we meet one of the gardeners who has seen a fully grown rattlesnake in the flowerbeds and suggests we check our tent. I have of course left everything open inluding the tent itself. Our boots, roll bags, sleeping bags and loose clothing all make for a choice of location for a deadly snake to have a siesta. We get a broom from the hotel staff and pull everything out of the tent, giving each item a good shake before dumping it on the lawn. Fifteen minutes later we confirn that there is no snake, but the hotel lawn is looking a little bit like Dale Farm on a sunny day. 46 WWW.THERIDERSDIGEST.CO.UK ISSUE 168 July 2012 A few days later we ride on to La Paz. Where after a three days waiting for the ferry, we sail to Mazatlan on the other side of the Sea of Cortez. The crossing, while calm, was a long journey with limited facilities and a nasty smell of diesel, so we were glad to get off the boat the following day. As we leave the port city the countryside opens into lush green farmland. The further south we go, the more our surroundings change into tropical forests full of lush palms and fronds. For the first time we cross a river with water in it, not just a dried up riverbed. Although we are now much more comfortable with other road users, the need for new tyres keeps us to a relatively slow pace. Tepic, from the Nayarit Indian word meaning ‘hard stone’, is about halfway between Mazatlan and either inland Guadalajara or coastal Puerto Vallarta. 47 48 WWW.THERIDERSDIGEST.CO.UK ISSUE 168 July 2012 49 Thanks to a combination of heat and lack of rest from the previous night’s ferry crossing, we agree to stay the night in Tepic. We book in to a hotel overlooking the main square and that night, over dinner, we’re entertained by a religious procession with accompanying drums. After breakfast the following morning, we wander out into the Plaza to look at the stalls that make up the central market. Of all Mexico’s indigenous peoples, the Huichol and Cora Indians from this area are amongst the least affected by the intrusion of modern life. These local people dress in traditional clothes, sell brightly coloured wall hangings, beaded items and other handicrafts. After some shopping and a quick meander through the streets, it is onwards to Puerto Vallarta. Trees line the narrow twisty roads, which wind back and forth through the hills, in and out of the shade. One very pleasant and easy spin later and we are back on the Pacific coast just outside Puerto Vallarta. We ride into the centre of the old town, where ancient cobbled streets bring us to Juan Carlos and Fernando’s brother Victor’s hotel. Our days in Puerto Vallarta were some of the most relaxing of any on our adventure so far. It was almost unbearably hot here during the day while still managing to be warm at night, definitely nothing like home. Each time we called family and friends, they complained about the wet summer they were having. Every night we have been here the sky has come alive after nine or ten in the evening, bright flashes of lightning illuminate the sea and the mountains behind the city and everything is bathed in white light for just a second. Sometimes it rains with the storm, torrential rain that makes everyone dash for cover, and other times it just stays dry, warm, and muggy. While here we get a chance to reacquaint 50 ourselves with Juan Carlos, to meet his beautiful wife, Isa and their family. We happily spend many evenings in their company enjoying local food and hospitality. These wonderful people welcome Maeve and I, complete strangers to them, into their homes and their lives. Downtown Vallarta is a beautiful warren of old cobbled streets. In the heart of the old town at the end of the Malacon is our lodging, the Hotel Rio, a beautiful building that is one of the oldest hotels in the town. The Marina and the high-rise hotels, while within walking distance, are just far enough away not to be noticeable. Small taco bars, brilliant restaurants, markets and locally owned and run art galleries fill the neighbourhood. Several days later, accompanied by our friend Fernando, we leave the town and make for Guadalajara, the capital of the state of Jalisco in the heartland of Mexico. This is the region where Spanish explorers capitalised on the abundant mineral resources and where they built their first colonial cities. Our host very kindly helped to arrange new tyres for both the bikes. The journey with Fernando from Puerto Vallarta was hairy enough on fairly bald knobblies.The downtown bike shop is called Surti Moto and run by the charming and efficient Gabriel. In little over an hour the bikes are re-shod, the luggage bolts tightened and the bikes washed. Our pace has slowed dramatically since we crossed the border into Baja and we both find ourselves taking a lot more time to speak with the people we meet and learn a new language. At Fernando’s insistance he and his girlfriend Kathia take us to the town of Tapalpa, two hundred kilometres outside the city. When we get there on Saturday evening, we are treated to wonderful Maharachi music in the WWW.THERIDERSDIGEST.CO.UK town square. The following day we hike for two hours into a deep jungle gorge where we find a 105 mwaterfall, before hiking back out again. I knew this trip would be life changing, but hiking - me? On Monday morning we’re back in Guadalajara and saying our goodbyes to Fernando. We ride out of the city and back to our adventures. We had ridden from the small town of Patzcuaro, through Morelia and had just left Zitacuaro when the rain started coming down in a slow lazy drizzle. Drizzle has always been the type of rain that I dislike most; it’s not dramatic enough to warrant looking at but wet enough to ruin all your fun. The road started to climb and we rode across the top of the mountains on Mex 55, at times good and at times little more than an old country road. As it climbed into the mountains we rode into fog, the surface deteriorated and we found ourselves riding on loose gravel in the rain, with very little visibility. This was just starting to be fun when we rounded a corner to find a border crossing of sorts. Mexico is divided into states and on the state line you sometimes find security personnel. The state we were entering is called Guerra and is on the CIA’s ‘don’t go there or you’ll die’ list. As we exited the corner, a strange scene opened in front of us. The rain was coming down a little harder at this stage and all the cops were dressed in black rain ponchos and carrying M16 rifles. As we were waved on, I couldn’t help but think that thanks to their dark ponchos and small stature they look like little old ladies – that is if little old ladies went out in the rain with machine guns. The rain, which has delayed us, is the tail end of Hurricane Felix and we find ourselves 60km short of our target as night closes in. After a quick consult of the map, we decide to press on anyway. Riding at night is not a good idea. After a long day on the road, navigating, bad weather and ISSUE 168 July 2012 usually not enough food, the last thing we need to be doing is riding around in the dark trying to find a town we have never been to before and cannot even pronounce properly. I think I can speak for both of us when I say we were relieved to see the street lights on the mountainside ahead. Taxco is an old mining town built on the side of a hill in the heart of the Sierra Madre. When the Spanish got here, they discovered large deposits of gold and silver and it still has a working silver mine today. The streets are all steep, cobbled, and narrow. The local government prohibits the construction of modern buildings and there are no neon lights in the town as they would destroy its character. On the main plaza and I walk across to Bordas café. Van Morrison is playing on the stereo as the local kids wheelie their mopeds past in a vain attempt to impress the young girls who are hanging out in the square. A Coca Cola truck with an armed guard passes by. The driver drinks from a Red Bull can as the guard clad in black fatigues on the back of the rig adjusts his rifle. The Volkswagen beetle and VW van were manufactured in Mexico until about ten years ago, and you can still see a few about the place. Taxco, however, is different. VW Beetles and vans are everywhere. The town’s immaculate taxis are all white bugs, some even have the original hubcaps. They all have the front passenger seats removed but that doesn’t stop them packing four and sometimes five people into the back seat. They run about the square and up and down the side streets at a speed that seems way too fast and gives the place the feeling of a mechanical anthill. The vans are all used as ‘collectivos’ or local minibuses. These all have the doors removed to better allow customers with luggage or shopping easier access. Most of the private cars are also VW 51 52 WWW.THERIDERSDIGEST.CO.UK ISSUE 168 July 2012 53 arrive. A cleaning lady emerges and after some negotiation we agree a price for the night. bugs and range from the immaculate originals to trick, chromed specials and the occasional over-loved old clunker. If you can imagine the sound of these old cars multiplied by twenty as they mill about the place, narrowly missing each other as they charge up and down the narrow streets of this beautiful town, you’ll have some ides of the madness we find ourselves in. When in Guadalajara, our friend Fernando had told us about ‘hotel de paso’ or ‘love hotels’. These are less family-oriented businesses but a common sight on the outskirts of any Mexican town large enough to have a church. They cater mostly to married men who require the use of a room for a few hours instead rates are typically for two hour periods. Two days outside Taxco we’re tired and hungry and can’t find anywhere to stay. Another thirty or so kilometres go by and we come to small town where the only accomodation is a ‘hotel de paso’. It has high metal gates at the entrance and all that is visible from the road is the plain, windowless back wall of the complex. The fancy sign on the road reads: “Auto Hotel, La Tentacion”. The Temptation! A large red neon apple sits atop the writing. We ride in through the gate and find that all the rooms are on the first floor. Heavy curtains, the type you’d see on the side of a HGV cover the carports of the rooms all ready in use, the others lie open, waiting for the next Adam and Eve to 54 WWW.THERIDERSDIGEST.CO.UK ISSUE 168 July 2012 Parking the bikes in the car port, the tarp is pulled across behind us quickly and we access the room through a door at the back of the garage. Discretion appears to be of the utmost importance for people who come to these places. A closed garage prevents anyone else recognising your car, reading the registration plate and telling your wife/husband or informing your political enemies. Locked into our room we take time to have a look around. Mirrors abound, on the ceiling, on the walls. I reach for the remote for the TV, but instead of cable channels, all we have is a selection of porn. Everything is clean and tidy and we even have an air conditioning unit, which is just as well. There are plenty of clean towels and lots of hot water. The most interesting item in the room is the room service list. Coffee, beer and juice, plus a dizzying array of mechanical devices that people generally don’t talk about in public. Love potions, aphrodisiacs and a vast array of other sex accessories too numerous to mention are just a quick call to reception away. The staff will deliver the required items to a hatch in the garage, which for the sake of complete anonymity, revolves to prevent the deliverer from seeing who is in the room. We both slept soundly that night. Paul Browne 55 The Illusion Of Control up the creek... Devon sun, pubs by the river, seafood and skinny dips... Holiday Flat - Kingswear, Dartmouth Sleeps four, carparking, garden, dogs welcome - 10% off for Digest readers www.upthecreek-in-kingswear.co.uk 01666 505295 Simon Gardner Graphic Design I M A G I N A T I O N enquiries: [email protected] 56 WWW.THERIDERSDIGEST.CO.UK A n old and valued friend described her brief but brilliant motorcycle ‘career’ in terms of control; meaning she loved the feeling of being out of control. She wrote, “I’ve ridden horses, bulls, bicycles, dirt bikes, drag bikes, road hogs, boats, jet boats, jet skis, blades, cars, monster trucks, a few semi’s, and always dove [scuba] too deep for way too long, exhaling the last 50 feet up on empty tanks… everything as hard, fast and as long as I possibly could (or should have) as, in the moment I hit the ‘zone’ of maximum mental and physical capabilities, the illusion of control evaporated with freedom visible.” She rode past the edge of comfort and common sense and clung to the bars as if she had tossed herself into space and was a spinning quarter waiting to see if she’d land heads or tails. After a few semi-serious ‘events,’ she decided motorcycling was not a healthy activity and gave it up. In a long and fruitful email conversation, she argued that none of us are ever in control of our lives, fates, or even the next moment. We decided, as we usually do, to agree to disagree ISSUE 168 July 2012 with more agreement on the reality side and less on the philosophical. I can’t disagree that control is an illusion. At any moment, any one of us can be the subject of all sorts of catastrophe without a hope in hell of limiting the damage done. There is no such thing as ‘control.’ The universe hates us, which is why the Second Law of Thermodynamics is, in fact, a Law and is obvious to anyone who ventures into space to confront the overwhelming presence of vacuum and disordered energy. Nature not only does not ‘abhor a vacuum,’ nature busts its vicious little hump to turn everything into nothing. Soon enough, the organization that presents itself as ourselves will devolve into random motion and we will have absolutely no control over that non-event. That is where she and I agree, with no doubt or question. Where we disagree is in the point of where the fun ends and fear begins. I thought about this conversation for two months before I decided to write about it. My breakthrough came 57 19TH ANNUAL ACE CAFE REUNION RIDE WITH THE ROCKERS BRIGHTON BURN-UP ART DEP 30 10: SUNDAY 9 TH SEPTEMBER 2012 ROUTE: A406•A40•M25•M23•A23• MADEIRA DRIVE•BRIGHTON SEAFRONT ACE CAFE LONDON, Ace Corner, North Circular Road, Stonebridge, London NW10 7UD A406, NORTH CIRCULAR ROAD, PARK ROYAL EXIT. UNDERGROUND - BAKERLOO LINE, STONEBRIDGE PARK - 200 YARDS FROM EXIT Te l +4 4( 0 )2 0 8 9 61 10 0 0 Fa x + 44 ( 0) 20 89 6 5 0 16 1 w w w.a ce -c a f e- lo n d on .c o m 58 WWW.THERIDERSDIGEST.CO.UK when my wife and I were remembering our experiences canoeing the Niobrara River. We used to take a bunch of friends on an annual Memorial Day trip to the Niobrara and one of the highlights was emptying the canoe and hitting Rocky Ford and a few of the other rapids as hard and fast as we could to see if we could safely paddle through those sections. To pull off this feat, you need to be committed. The Rocky Ford section required aiming barely to the right of a large bolder that was usually submerged this time of the year and hitting the point as hard and fast as possible to get the front of the boat in the air as long as possible. To make that commitment, I had to believe I would come out of the whirlpool at the bottom in the boat. My wife tried the trip as a passenger, once. We didn’t manage to stay rubber-side-down and she and I and the other paddler ended up in the whirlpool. No big deal with a lifejacket, but that was all she wanted ISSUE 168 July 2012 of the experience. I spent the rest of the day trying to ‘master’ the waterfall and rapids. If you have canoed a fast river, you know there is no ‘mastering’ being done by the paddlers. The river owns your ass until you’re on the shore, but you can imagine you’re in control if you stay beam-down and that was good enough for me. I was always confident enough to do the river’s worst rapids with an empty boat, even by myself in years when no one else wanted to shoot the rapids. I was never confident enough to run those rocks with a loaded canoe. I’m good with chasing the boat down the river. I’m not interested in donating my tent, sleeping bag, food supply and clothes to whoever recovers my dry-bags downstream. All of this is equally true for my motorcycle adventures. If I’m planning a trip into a remote place, I do it alone and packed as 59 light as practical. I carry tools, repair parts, enough food and water for at least three days of isolation, and as little else as I can get by without and I maintain the motorcycle as thoroughly as my skills allow before I leave. If it’s a long trip, I might ship replacement tires and other supplies to a convenient cache. If I’m going to take on some extreme challenge, just for the challenge, I set aside my gear, walk 60 WWW.THERIDERSDIGEST.CO.UK ISSUE 168 July 2012 the territory, ride it, come back to the gear, load up, and travel on. I travel alone because that only leaves me with one foolish mind to mismanage. I do not ride a motorcycle for companionship. That’s what cars are for. I do not want to be rescued or be a rescuer. Anyone with a lick of sense knows there are all kinds of flaws in my logic and tactics. However, 61 62 WWW.THERIDERSDIGEST.CO.UK ISSUE 168 July 2012 63 64 WWW.THERIDERSDIGEST.CO.UK those habits give me the pleasant illusion of control and that is a big part of why I ride a motorcycle. The downside of my approach is that it does not provide a competitive edge. Almost all champions possess the trait of being able to toss their fate somewhat-tooentirely into the winds. Part of that is due to the ignorance and innocence of youth. I was far more able to assume the best outcome when I was 19 (or when I was 30, 40, or 50) than I can today. With every decade, I have become more conservative; more timid, more fragile, less able to believe I will recover from large mistakes. The illusion of control is slipping away. go; if I had any. Worse, I discovered too late the activities that I would play at for most of my life. So, my lifelong tactic has been to do what it takes to get to play without a lot of concern toward winning. Playing beach basketball in California meant doing the crap jobs so that my team would stay on the court (if you lose, you sit). On a motorcycle, that directive meant keeping myself and my machine capable enough to finish the race without major embarrassment. As usual, that strategy allows me to support the illusion of control and since this is my world I’m writing about, I’m sticking with my illusions until reality overtakes me. To my disadvantage I had and have none of the qualities of a great athlete; physically or mentally. If I were inclined to trust fate and physics, I would still have a big empty place on my fireplace mantel where trophies would Thomas Day ISSUE 168 July 2012 www.mnmotorcycle.com http://geezerwithagrudge.blogspot.co.uk All Rights Reserved © 2012 Thomas W. Day 65 ASK LAMPKIN www.lampkins.co.uk We are very pleased to welcome Mark Lampkin back to The Rider’s Digest. Mark is a personal injury lawyer specialising in motorcycle accident claims and is not only a biker himself but also a Deputy District Judge. He has written a number of very illuminating legal articles for TRD in the past and now his company has agreed to sponsor a regular advice section dealing with all matters bike legal from small number plates to major accident scams, loud exhausts to euro-regulations, so we can include them in future editions. You can contact him by clicking on the Ask Lampkin link at the bottom of this article. Claims Gravy-trains and Automobiles! So what’s been happening in the legal world over the last year or so. Well The Daily Fail has been awash with the clamour to stop fat cat lawyers and their fraudulent whiplash clients driving up the cost of insurance premiums for all concerned branding us as worse than those pesky asylum seekers whose constant theft of stale bread from supermarket bins has obviously lead to the present financial crisis. Not those lovely bankers (who are only one letter different than what they actually are). I digress but hang on a minute, do you really know what lies behind those headlines and do you realise how as a ‘vulnerable’ road user 66 WWW.THERIDERSDIGEST.CO.UK ISSUE 168 July 2012 (particularly if you are not a greedy banker) you will lose out if the system changes, or for that matter if you don’t know enough about the present legal system should you ever need it when a blind banker knocks you off. Forewarned is forearmed so read on then spread the word. Insurance is a necessary evil. It is compulsory and when the Government introduced it in 1930 it created the monster that now sings opera to you every single ad break. Not only that but the insurers, by contributing to the Motor Insurers Bureau, also pick up the tab for uninsured and untraced motorists. Fine, I’ll accept they have to pay out a lot but as there are some 33 million drivers that’s a lot of premiums to collect. So they have a captive market to get a lot of money in but they complain constantly that they pay out £123 for every £100 collected, and haven’t made a profit for 16 or more, yet all we see is an ever increasing rise in premiums of up to 40% - or more if you are young. So what’s going on with Brewster’s millions? Well let’s look at The Daily Wail explanations one by one. Personal injury lawyers and their fees. Yes people need looking after by lawyers who earn their bacon by winning cases (they get nowt if they lose) and getting rightful victims what we as a civilised society have decided they should get if they are Volvo’d. But do you know the lawyer’s costs are strictly controlled by Judges scrutinising their bills and only allowing reasonable reimbursement for the time they have spent on the case. Sitting as a Deputy District Judge but also being an insurance payer, I get exasperated when the legal costs I have to award to lawyers are huge purely because the insurers have had some overworked numpty not deal with the victims lawyers, forcing them to incur lottery winning cost amounts. It ain’t rocket science Mr Aviva, if you don’t want to pay them then settle the right cases early or fight the ones where you can avoid paying at all. Spurious whiplash claims is another area where the insurers say their shareholders have to lose out on champagne at the annual meeting. Really? Have you ever had whiplash? Well I have and it hurts like hell, restricts even the simplest tasks and is just a downright pain in the… neck! If their dozy banker driver can’t see that biker with his brake lights directly in front then they should pay for his pain. The insurers claim that people are now being encouraged to claim by the adverts on telly but one man’s encouragement is another man being informed of his legal rights. Don’t be fooled; the more the insurers can take out full page spreads in The Daily Entrail in return for shock-journo diatribe making genuinely injured bikers feel dirty if they 67 ASK LAMPKIN ASK LAMPKIN www.lampkins.co.uk even consider claiming, the more Dom Perignon there will be. The government, spurred on by supposed working man’s champion Jack Straw (now there’s an unlikely alliance) have suggested that they need to raise the threshold for whiplash before it reaches a point where compensation should be paid. The present proposals, which follow on from very boring cases where mathematicians have duelled on vectors and momentum in court, suggest that no compensation for whiplash can be awarded where the relative collision speed is less than 15 miles per hour. So you are allowed to injure somebody for free but just a bit. Well why don’t we go the whole hog and have kids sweeping chimneys but just a bit. Here’s where you should wake up, there is no proposed exception for motorcyclists. So if you are on your trusty steed wearing a heavy helmet on your heavy head and get rear ended by an artic driven by a vodka fuelled east European in his eighteenth hour of driving and doing 14.5 mph, it will be presumed you can’t get whiplash. Now I’m no Vorderman (ooh, lovely) but even I can work out that mathematically that is loopy. Fraud always get wheeled out as another reason cost are supposedly spiralling. I applaud insurers rooting out any fraudsters and again in my work as a Judge of these cases I have ‘facebook defences’ come across my bench daily. Seventy pages of how the passenger in one vehicle hired by somebody who has been unemployed for years is ‘in a relationship’ with the driver of another car bought that day and insured two hours before the collision at sixty miles an hour in a cul-de-sac fifty yards long. Believe me all the above is real, I’ve seen it and the insurers are thankfully and belatedly getting to grips with it. What may surprise you though is how often insurers just pay up rather than carry out the most casual investigation. They even go round to houses with chequebooks to pay out everyone involved rather than incur the costs of fighting. Surely it would be better to at least try to protect the coffers rather than play Father Christmas 24/7/365. Fraud does happen but all involved, insurers, lawyers and Judges must pull together on this one and share information. The insurers have vast commercial databases yet refuse to allow claimant lawyers access to it so they could suss out claims on day one. Togetherness will bring happiness on this one. Another area where insurers can avoid being authors of their own misfortune is in the area of uninsured motorists. Since 1945 insurers have had various agreements with the government to pay out victims of uninsured and untraced motorists. They all contribute according to their market share. Basically this is a quid pro quo or payback for them having a market created by the government maintaining a compulsory insurance law. But the evil with this is that you and I have to pay £30 more on our premiums to pay for this. I actually believe the figure is vastly more than this because this only relates to the payouts for claims but does not include the premiums that would be collected from these previously 1.5 but now 1.2 million uninsured drivers annually. So the figures are falling but surely in this day and age with automatic number plate recognition systems and the coppers looking for any private finance since they stopped doing the Policeman’s Ball thing, the insurers could benefit enormously by financing detection initiatives. The Mersey Tunnel in my neck of the woods regularly has such operations in that bottleneck. Whilst I am anti big brother I do think we need to consider finding uninsured motorists and making them pay and the insurers can do a lot more to help. People in glass houses and all that, goes further when you consider the regular whinge of the insurers that referral fees for personal injury claims have lead to increased cost and premiums. Actually I agree on this one as I have long been a campaigner against anyone, be it a claims company, back street garage, union or recovery driver selling accident victim’s details to solicitors for filthy www.lampkins.co.uk lucre. There is even one claims company fronted by a well known consumer’s champion which charges the solicitors a referral fee and then takes the same amount from the client’s hard earned damages as well! Google it or ask me for details if you don’t believe me, and believe me you won’t believe who it is when you find out by reading on. But yet again despite the plea that referral fees are fuelling the fire and who do you think are the biggest chargers of such fees? See it’s not rocket science Mr Insurer, if you don’t agree with referral fees don’t charge them. Most, if not all, insurers sell details of injured clients to their own lapdog solicitors for fees of around £8-900. Worse still they actually get away with charging their poor sap premium payers fifteen, twenty or up to forty pounds for the dubious privilege of this sell-on system dressed up as ‘legal expenses’ insurance. Thankfully the government have found some time (in amongst propping up the banks) to bring in a law with effect from next April banning this scurrilous practice. Hopefully that will see an end to the constant stream of adverts showing people slipping on banana skins during daytime telly as the business model of those claims companies who advertise this way will evaporate. Ah well Esther, That’s Life! (I said you wouldn’t believe me). As a bike lawyer I have a great perspective on the whole claim game and will be the first to accept that we have allowed a great profession to be invaded by metaphorical pimps who have become huge and unnecessary industries. I entered the profession in the eighties and one of the first cases I worked on was a claim for some visitors on the opening day of a water treatment plant being literally blown up. Seeing how their lives were secured by our action in fighting a complicated legal battle was soul fulfilling. Now, to continue the metaphor, I see dealers, users, pimps and prostitutes trading cases in back alleys with cash in brown envelopes and see the money from your premiums being spent on referral fees to irrelevant claims companies and given to credit hire firms. And there’s another thing - credit hire, where you get a replacement car or bike on hire terms that is included in the claim. Whilst I accept that you need replacement transport, which can be an essential element of a claim, I could make your eyes water if you saw some of the hire accounts I have seen. A recent case involving Darren Bent, who was supplied a DB9 on credit hire terms following a non fault accident, lead to an award in excess of £70,000 in hire charges despite the fact that he had a garage full of bling. Some say he only took it as he fancied a car with his initials and shirt number. He did nothing wrong but partly the system and partly the insurers were to blame for dealing with it the wrong way. Still it all goes on our premiums. So the system has faults and needs tidying up for sure. But let’s not allow the hyperbole to stop vulnerable bikers claiming when they are honestly hurt and damaged, leaving the insurers and claims companies to cream off referral fees and credit hire firm owners to entertain hordes of Russian beauties on their yachts in Puerto Banus, funded by our ever increasing premiums. Back to basics? Oh no, even I’m turning into The Daily Tale. But why not just honest, strictly regulated, fully qualified lawyers and honest, faultless, injured victims and nobody else? Surely this would strip millions from the loss side of the insurer’s accounts. Trouble is, what do you reckon, reduced premiums or more Moet? If you have any legal issue you would like Mark to address in a future edition of The Rider’s Digest click here: Ask Lampkin Ask Lampkin is sponsored by Lampkin & Co Solicitors Motorcycle Accident Specialists Aled House, Lakeside Village, St Davids Park Ewloe, Deeside, CH5 3XA. Telephone: 01244 525725 www.lampkins.co.uk 68 WWW.THERIDERSDIGEST.CO.UK ISSUE 168 July 2012 69 Touratech’s Compañero is one of the newest textile suits on the market. Compañero fans include the British actor Charley Boorman (“Long Way Round”, “Race to Dakar”), and seasoned motorbike adventurers Simon/Lisa Thomas and Nick Sanders. COME TO US FOR BIG BRAND NAMES LIKE: Tank Bags DESIERTO 3 - Top fairing for your BMW The Touratech Adventure Shock by Tractive is now available for the top-selling BMW R 1200 GS / Adventure and F 800 GS, in three different versions: Level 1, High End and Extreme. Xenon and fog lights Zega Pro Panniers US TOO... COME AND VISIT Visit our new branch now open in Chester... Touratech Chester, Stanney Mill Lane, Little Stanney, Chester, Cheshire, CH2 4HY Visit our webshop www.touratech.co.uk Touratech UK, Unit 14 Woodlands Business Park, Ystradgynlais, Swansea, SA9 SA9 1JW 1JW Tel: (01639) 841765 | Email: [email protected] 70 WWW.THERIDERSDIGEST.CO.UK W PANTHER PIONEER e often take our fathers for granted but seldom our fathers-in-law. I have mentioned mine in these pages before, referring to him as ‘the legendary Panther owner’ Sid Wilkinson and, following that brief moment in the limelight, it occurred to me that in the thirty years I’ve known him, I have done exactly that – taken him for granted. I don’t mean that as a bad thing, only as a way of saying that our relationship has always been uncommonly easy-going and lots of fun. Sid is kind, quiet and very interesting. As sonin-laws go I’m one of the very lucky ones but it also struck me just how important men like Sid are to the world of biking we all know and love. ISSUE 168 July 2012 Last weekend I asked Sid if I could interview him for the Digest and, somewhat surprised he agreed, asking only that I don’t write anything embarrassing! In the end we chatted for hours and there isn’t room here for everything he told me, so I’ve decided to make this part article and part interview. I’ll leave it to you to decide whether it’s an ‘inticle’ or an ‘artiview’… rural Buckinghamshire, which imbues him straight away with the charm of a character from an H. E. Bates novel. His early life seems to have been one of happy bucolic pastimes involving cricket, football, ferrets and potting rabbits with a .410 shotgun. Sid was born in 1925 at Flowers Bottom near Speen in Sid - He did, yes; before the war but he didn’t come into motorbikes until he was quite old, about forty-five or thereabouts. But he never really mastered it, you know. He could drive it and tie it up with wire if anything ever fell off, but that was about his Me - What was your earliest memory of motorbikes? Did your Dad have one? 71 limit. It was good enough for the journeys he did, they were all local. Me - Did he take your mum on the back? Sid - No, it was a sidecar outfit, an 1929 Ariel I think. My older brother Jack started it off, he had one bike after another, changed them all the time for better ones. I remember one time he came home with an ABC. It didn’t go but it only cost him fifty shillings. He was a bit miffed when dad sold it for a pound. Not long after that Sid got a job at a country garage in Naphill, selling petrol and doing small maintenance and repair jobs. In those days there was no distinction between cars and bikes, they were all just forms of transport that needed to be kept going. Petrol was ‘one and fourpence ha’penny’ a gallon. Sid - One day my boss gave me a 250 BSA to ride about on. I was only fourteen 72 at the time but I think he thought it would improve my time keeping getting to work. Me - Were you allowed to ride it legally? Was it common for fourteen year olds to be riding bikes on the road? Sid - No, we weren’t allowed to until we were sixteen but I never got stopped by anyone. Funnily enough, the day I was sixteen - I’d got an Ariel 350 by then - I was on my way down to see a chap who used to muck about with bikes and do them up. One of his customers was a policeman who happened to be there at the time and wanted to see my licence. Me - Didn’t he suspect anything? I mean, you must have looked pretty handy on a bike by then? Sid - Well he didn’t say anything. It was all pretty rural back then. I didn’t know who he was but I knew our local policeman. in High Wycombe making compressors, which were used throughout the war effort, particularly for servicing aircraft. Personal petrol allowances were stopped completely for most of this time and Sid had to get to work by bicycle like everyone else. Only those living in very remote places were allowed motor transport. The few private cars that were around got laid up on bricks for the duration but occasionally a little petrol ‘leaked out’ of the tightly controlled rationing system. Sid - The tanker used to come and they had this dip-stick which showed 200 gallons, and of course there was always a bit over the mark, so the boss used to give the driver a good tip and we had a bit extra. Mostly it went to the baker, though. reunited with his 1933 350 Douglas in-line twin, which he kept for five years. Me - So this was your only form of transport? Sid - Yes, mostly it was for getting to work as petrol was more available by then but I used it for everything courting, cricket and ferreting! Me - And I suppose everybody else had motorbikes at that time? Sid - No, not really. I had one because I was mechanically involved with things at work and had worked at a garage. I could cope with it if it went wrong but there weren’t many people who had them, mostly they went to work on the bus. All the motorbikes that were around then were pre-war, the new post-war machines didn’t appear until about 1948-49. There were heaps of bicycles about, it was quite a It was around this time that Sid started to do something which was very unusual at the time but which we bikers now take as a normal part of our lives. Perhaps inspired by his travels in the army he set off on some adventurous trips abroad. Sid - I had a Triumph by that time and went to the south of France with Arthur Slater, he had a Triumph as well. They had unlimited petrol over there and all sorts of ‘Super Carburant’ and such like, it was great being able to fill up whenever you liked and choose what petrol you wanted. Back home there was just ‘pool petrol’. The following year Arthur got married so Sid went off to Spain on his own on another 350 Douglas but this time it was a transverse twin. Soon after that Sid had acquired for himself not only a wife but also a string of other vehicles including three Morgan threewheelers, a Wolseley Hornet, a Ford Eight and later on a Lagonda, which Sid made a supercharger for in his lunch breaks at work. He cast the housings himself under the supervision of the foreman, who regarded this kind of enterprise as excellent training for work. After a brief posting to Palestine with the REME (Royal Electrical and Mechanical Engineers) Sid returned home to his old job making compressors at BroomWade, life slowly improving despite the post-war austerity. He was By 1943 Sid was working 84 hours a week for BroomWade WWW.THERIDERSDIGEST.CO.UK job to get to work because you had to dodge round them all. You could pass hundreds of them on your way in. ISSUE 168 July 2012 73 74 WWW.THERIDERSDIGEST.CO.UK ISSUE 168 July 2012 75 Me - So were you drifting away from bikes? Sid - No, I used the bikes for getting to work and the cars mainly at the weekend. Me - And did Hazel (my mother-in-law) like coming out on the bikes? Sid - Yes, she loved it. She’d always wanted to go to France with me but her Dad and Mum wouldn’t let her until she was married! When they finally got to go to the continent together, Sid and Hazel did it in style on a Vincent Black Shadow. They set off to France on the Silver City transporter plane, rode round Normandy, down to Paris and back home again. And from there followed a wonderful period in their lives where, without ever being conscious of it, they were opening up the world of biking into which we all followed. They weren’t the only ones and certainly not the first, but it was perhaps the dawn of ordinary working people owning cars and bikes, and starting to go abroad for holidays and to explore. Prior to this you had to be part of a rich elite to do that sort of thing. But you had to be mechanically skilled to keep things on the road. Sid - We had endless breakdowns but nothing we couldn’t sort out straight away. In 1963 came their little girl Tina and the fun simply continued, with father and daughter taking trips to France (when she was big enough) in Sid’s Phelon & Moore Model 120 Panther with Steib sidecar, an outfit he has to this day and regularly turns up at our house on! Me - So, fast-forwarding to when I first met you in 1982-83, you had a garage 76 WWW.THERIDERSDIGEST.CO.UK ISSUE 168 July 2012 literally stuffed with classic P&Ms. How did that happen? Sid - Well, back in the 50s and 60s bikes were just transport. They were cheap enough and we rode them and fixed them up to keep them going. After a while motorcycling went in to decline, the bike shops were closing and our industry was going downhill. Back then Motorcycle News was more informal and old bikes started to appear in it. People started to see bikes as a fun thing rather than just a means of getting to work. Another innovation was that single-marque motorcycle clubs began to be formed and as he already had a P&M Sid went along to the first ever meeting of the Panther Owner’s Club. Sid - It was really useful, as when you got together with lots of other owners 77 “Funny But Thoughtful” “Dave Gurman is the thinking motorcyclist’s Jezza. He’s deeper, balder, funnier and infinitely less irritating - and he’s had a lifelong passion for bikes!” “Dave Gurman makes you glad that you’re riding and glad that you’re reading” – Austin Vince “Dave’s ability to capture segments of life and express them in a personal and uplifting manner creates many a snigger through to full on laugh out loud moments.” – Neil ‘Nelly’ Hudd “I have three words for Dave Gurman’s Book I LOVE IT!” – Harriet Ridley Only £5.99 everybody knew what part fitted what, or what you could use instead to fix up your own bike. It started me off collecting all sorts of old Panthers, mostly from the 30’s at first, but later on I started to get interested in the really old stuff. I had a 1917 P&M RFC combination for a while and later on a 1913 P&M. Eventually I was the machine registrar for the club. Can be ordered from any good bookshop available ex-stock from: The Ace Cafe, London The Shop in the Clouds (Ponderosa) Horseshoe Pass, Llangollen www.amazon.co.uk www.mapsman.com www.traveldriplus.com www.wemoto.com brother Bernard (another avid collector of old bikes). They seemed to know everybody and everybody seemed to know them. And the motorbikes continue to come and go. They are a little less heavy now as Sid has pursued his interest in bikes with Granville Bradshaw’s little oil/air cooled 350 single At this point I could fill the whole magazine with a list of bikes Sid has had but I want to paint a portrait of the man rather than a dry list of machines. As he said to me “They all came and went eventually but they’re all still out there somewhere.” From then on his history and mine are intertwined; my memories Or by post from: Dave Gurman, 48 Argyle Avenue, Hounslow, TW3 2LF – cheque for £7.99 (£2 p&p) 78 are of going to summer shows and steam rallies, all as a family with a feral tribe of whippets curled up on the seats of various campervans, warming their soft, hairless bellies in the sun. When he retired Sid got busier and busier, he and Hazel attended shows almost every week in the summer and nearly always with his younger WWW.THERIDERSDIGEST.CO.UK ISSUE 168 July 2012 79 seem to be able to do it, they get it all wrong and cause terrible backfires… in them. These are OKs, DOTs and Matadors rather than Panthers. Bradshaw also designed the original P&M Model 100 engine and the mercurial 250 V-twin in the Panthette, which was too clever for the materials of the day and never sold well. Until recently Sid had the only road-going one in the world but that’s the kind of man he is. It was the same with his 1923 P&M sloper. He’s also the kind of man who can peer into a tatty box of bits at an auto-jumble and know exactly what he’s looking at. He doesn’t wait for the AA if he breaks down, because if he can fix it by stripping out the clutch plates at the side of the road then he will. I know, I’ve seen him do it and not that long ago, either. He still goes to all the rallies he can and is disappointed if they are cancelled because of a little thing like rain. Every year we 80 WWW.THERIDERSDIGEST.CO.UK ISSUE 168 July 2012 attend the Boxing day run to the Tipputts Inn on the A46 near Nailsworth, whether it’s sunny or snowing. This last scenario bothers me a lot but is ‘water off a duck’s back’ to him. “Back in the old days we had to get to work whatever the weather - we just got used to it. We slipped about a bit but nothing bad ever happened.” Near the end of our chat I ask him, “What do you think of modern bikes? Have you ever fancied one?” Sid - No, not at all. I couldn’t get on with all that electronic stuff and fuel injection. I like a carburettor that I can flood… The one thing I would want from a modern bike is an electric starter, though. Me - But you can still kickstart your 650 single-cylinder M120 Panther! Sid [smiling] - Yes, well there’s a knack to it. Even some of the younger chaps don’t Sid Wilkinson has lived a biking life most of us can only dream of but please don’t imagine that being eightyseven will put a stop to it. He is an enduring pioneer of the British biking scene, the very life-blood of what we all do and hope to do in the future. There is nothing embarrassing about him to tell and my only regret is that I haven’t been able to share more of it with you. If you’re thinking of giving up motorbikes because of your age then Sid’s message is a simple one - you don’t have to. So when you set out on your next trip to France or Spain or wherever you’re going on your bike, you should remember that Sid Wilkinson has been there before you, and knowing him he may well be right behind you too! Oldlongdog 81 Special K 82 WWW.THERIDERSDIGEST.CO.UK ISSUE 168 July 2012 83 the aerodynamic fairing, panniers and heated grips it sat nicely within my meagre budget. It seemed too good to be true. It even had an unusual sideways mounted kickstart and a four-speed gearbox. Being new to the marque I didn’t think anything of it, until a few weeks later, when it was getting hard to disengage the heavy clutch enough to engage or change gear. Sure enough I’d bought a pup. The seller wasn’t interested and it seemed that the bloody thing would be sitting outside my flat until I’d saved up enough cash to get it sorted. A friend who worked somewhere where they had lots of white R100RTs, managed to get hold of a second-hand five-speed gearbox that needed a new layshaft, or even better, a brand new one. He brought me the oily components covered with a sack ‘for a drink’ and after borrowing the work’s M ost old farts like me (i.e. early 50s) will have cut their teeth on Japanese motorcycles in the mid to late 70s. Bikes that looked good and went well, but were a little lacking when it came to handling, brakes, tyres, lights, screw heads and even paintwork. After the frustration of owning a number of these machines I decided enough was enough and started to consider European manufacturers. Having developed a loathing for cleaning chain goo off everything south of the gearbox sprocket I reasoned that shaft drive was the way forward, which ruled out some of 84 van I transported the bike and all the bits to a BMW specialist in Erith; who over several weeks rebuilt it for exactly the price difference between the tasty black boxer at Mottingham and the streamlined blue nail that I’d bought instead. Bugger. Once I’d got ‘Boris’ back I did enjoy many miles of trouble free riding. Trouble free that is once I’d got the hang of sliding back a little on the seat to free my knobbly knees from inside the fairing when I felt the need to put my feet down. I never actually dropped it, but I came close once or twice. It certainly delivered the miles in supreme comfort. My flat mate Jill’s parents lived near Barnstaple and on the odd summer weekend we’d leave Gravesend after I finished work on a Friday and ride 250 miles into the sunset to spend a couple of days in North Devon. But all good things come to an end, and by the the more exotic Italian thoroughbreds and despite my affinity with Massey Fergusons and John Deeres I was never really sold on the Moto Guzzi, so I looked to Bavaria for my inspiration. I decided that what I wanted was a BMW R100. I’d spotted a beautiful black R100 at Mottingham Motorcycles, low mileage, excellent condition, but about £600 over my budget. I tried haggling, which might work in 2012 but in 1984 the salesman looked at me as though I’d lost my marbles. And maybe I had, because I ended up with a well used R100RS that I’d seen in MCN’s classifieds; even with the added bonuses of WWW.THERIDERSDIGEST.CO.UK ISSUE 168 July 2012 85 86 WWW.THERIDERSDIGEST.CO.UK ISSUE 168 July 2012 87 the biking one for a few more years until one day in 1998 when my wife returned from a residential art course and announced that it was time I got another bike. Maybe the fumes from the watercolours had got to her or something. And so it was that I went out searching for another Teutonic beast. Despite the hiccups with Boris I had been impressed with the general build quality of BMWs, so I started looking for a K100RS. However, after viewing several around London it appeared the couriers (sorry Mr Editor!) had got there first, and without exception they were in terrible condition. time Jill and I met our respective spouses, the boxer’s timing had slipped, causing one of the header pipes to overheat and blister the paint on the fairing. Then the horn stopped working; followed by the electric clock; and then the fork seals started weeping. It was time to say goodbye. a detailed breakdown of all the problems I knew about, as well as a couple I didn’t. In spite of this he obviously saw something he liked in Boris, or maybe he had more money than sense because he agreed to pay me the asking price providing I delivered the bike to an address in Wimbledon. At the time I was renting a house on a busy ‘A’ road, so I put Boris outside with one of those undignified ‘for sale’ boards leaning against him. Various time wasters came and went, until eventually a middle-aged couple on holiday from New Zealand called. After giving the fork legs a quick wipe I fed him all the usual spiel, excusing the various problems as ‘character’ – “They all do that mate.” I was left standing in the front garden with cash in my hand while the guy took it for a test ride. Persuaded against buying another bike by my fiancée, I too began an extended journey where I mostly spent my money on things like wedding rings, mortgages and bringing up children. Inside the house his wife was telling my other half what an ingenious engineer her husband was and how was one of the most respected bike builders in the Antipodes; which became clear to me when he returned and gave me 88 Deflated, I got in the car and headed for home along the Old Kent Road; but as I reached St James’s Road the familiar roundel sign outside ‘Bracken BMW’ caught my eye, so I turned left and wandered into their yard. In the middle of a sea of BMWs stood an immaculate unfaired K100. Remembering my experience from years before I tentatively enquired after the price of the bike, thinking that once again the shiny black Beemer would be beyond my reach. This time I was in luck. The bike was a 1985 US spec model that had been owned by a BBC correspondent in The States, and had recently been shipped to the UK where he traded it for a newer model. As Leslie Crowther used to say, the price was right. Money changed hands, the V5 was filled in and a call made to Carol Nash. In a matter of days I was heading home on the oldest bike I’d ever owned and the only one with four cylinder. The bike took up residence in my shed amongst lawn mowers, Little Tykes cars and bicycles with stabilisers. It was covered up with a sheet and plugged into I had a Yamaha XS650 Custom for a while. Then there was a spell where due to ‘not seeing eye to eye’ with my employers I had to return the company car and needed transport to get to work. So my good friend Keith loaned me his rather tired Suzuki SP400, which was largely faithful and reliable, except when the swinging arm spindle snapped in the middle lane of the M20! After normal service had been resumed on the employment front, it was all quiet on WWW.THERIDERSDIGEST.CO.UK ISSUE 168 July 2012 89 to which my trouble and strife would say something like, “But you’ve got a bike…” For years I continued to live the lie with my K100, kidding myself that I was happy with it, until one day in 2007 my son mentioned there was a 2003 R1100S on Ebay at a low price. I asked my wife if I could place a bid and once again I was reminded that I already had a bike. But my persistence paid off, and it was eventually agreed that I could place a maximum bid of £2,850, which was never going to be enough. The auction ended at about half seven on a Sunday evening. I was sitting in the garden with a beer when my son announced that he had some bad news for me. I’d guessed as much, the bike was worth a lot more than I’d bid. The bad news he had was that I’d won an Optimate, and came out for quick runs, the odd commute, trips to the coast, weekends away and the odd holiday. And that was that really – the start of a long and happy relationship. Various mods and improvements were carried out over the following fourteen years; the big square drainpipe exhaust was binned and replaced by a Remus can; a touring screen was fitted and later replaced by an ultra rare K75C fairing; the Corbin saddle was re-finished and the bike was polished, tinkered with and fettled like most cherished mounts. It seemed like we would be partners for life, me and my special K. Then one day I was invited to the launch of a new model at the local BMW dealer, I think it may have been the R1200GS. The detail escapes me, as I was busy falling in love. Every available GS was booked up, so I was asked if 90 the auction; and he was right, o say that my wife wasn’t happy about it would be an understatement. I quietly made arrangements to borrow a trailer the following weekend and head over to Windsor to pick the bike up, it was taxed and MOT’d but I wasn’t sure how well it had been maintained, and as the weather was filthy I decided not to risk riding it. Under cover of darkness it went straight into the garage, like a mistress smuggled in through the back door. The bodywork came off, the wheels came out, and over the next few weeks I systematically cleaned and serviced the bike, and even managed to sneak a new pair of tyres under the radar. Then one fine spring day the R1100S broke cover, and was released into the fresh air like a butterfly. It was an absolute delight to ride, every bit as good as the brazen hussy I’d I would like to try something else. A K1200RS maybe? Or how about this R1100S? Ah, yes, the R1100S. Beautiful. Yes please. This was a mistake, a flirtation, a seedy onenight stand. I instantly bonded with the curvy saucepot who took me swooping around the country lanes. She held me back from the test convoy and then encouraged me to enjoy her vivacious curves and confident handling as we caught up with the pack, which left me wondering how far I’d get if I just took off with her. I returned to the shop and reluctantly handed back the keys, then felt ashamed as I wandered back to my faithful old K100. I couldn’t look it in the headlight. It was never the same after that day. I didn’t mention the R1100S to my wife. She wouldn’t have understood. But I couldn’t help commenting if we saw one in the street, WWW.THERIDERSDIGEST.CO.UK ISSUE 168 July 2012 91 As each MOT test came and went, the difference in mileage from the previous year became less and less, until last year, when I didn’t even bother to tax it. The K was still quick and reliable, but compared to the sporty boxer it just felt so staid and upright. So when even my long suffering wife eventually admitted to a sneaking admiration for the R1100S (although at time of writing she still hasn’t been on the back of it), after a lot of soul searching I decided to sell it. tangoed with at the BMW dealers a few years earlier, but this one wasn’t a brief encounter, it was all mine. The K100 still held a special place in my heart, rather like a faithful old Labrador. It was lovingly polished and maintained, and sailed through its annual MOT test. On turning 25 years old it qualified as a vintage bike, and I was able to join the International West Kent Run, along with 349 other riders of slightly more vintage machines. The owners of ancient Ariels, Rudges and Franny Barnetts were all talking about advancing timing, pushrods and valve collets. I just turned the key and pressed the button. I felt every bit the fraud. It attracted a lot of attention on Ebay and sold immediately, for a good price too. I felt guilty after so many years of ownership as I betrayed my longest serving bike and rode it for the last time to its new home in Oxfordshire, shamefully handing over the keys in exchange for a bundle of used notes. I didn’t say much as I was driven home. I was thinking of the good times we’d had together, from that initial blast of freedom down the M20 after the congestion of the South Circular, the early morning ride down the A303 to The Eden Project, and fish and chips on the quayside in Weymouth. So I’ve got a bit of space in the garage now, and just under a grand left in my slush fund after spending a bit of the money from the K100 on the R1100S (does my duplicity know no bounds?) and I’m thinking that I’d like a trail bike, maybe 250 or 400cc, and I’m casually looking through the classifieds. My dear wife of course doesn’t want me to get one, and I have the nagging suspicion that if I do I might end up enjoying it more than the 1100, and we all know where that could lead… Martin Haskell 92 WWW.THERIDERSDIGEST.CO.UK ISSUE 168 July 2012 93 In The Shadow Of The Tiger 94 WWW.THERIDERSDIGEST.CO.UK ISSUE 168 July 2012 95 R olling into remote Asian villages aboard the Triumph Tiger 955i, I tended to get noticed. Shoulders back and head held high, the Tiger growled and the people smiled and waved. I’d pull to a dusty halt, kill the engine and become the focus of all attention. A hundred familiar questions would greet my arrival: ‘How fast?’ ‘How big?’ ‘How far?’ ‘How much?’ Cameras had clicked as adults posed for photographs and every kid in every village had looked longingly towards the Tiger’s empty pillion seat. Along with the genuine warmth and hospitality I’d quite enjoyed the attention, but as the miles had increased I’d realised that something important had been missing. The people passing fleetingly through my life had probably learned a great deal about my 96 WWW.THERIDERSDIGEST.CO.UK ISSUE 168 July 2012 nomadic existence aboard the Triumph Tiger, but their understanding of ‘Me’ had come at the expense of my understanding of ‘Them’. Four years ago in London, my journey had started as little more than a self-indulgent jolly, a magical remedy for midlife mediocrity, a low-rent Long Way Round that owed far more to Pooratech than Touratech. However, somewhere along those dusty roads heading east, the nature of the journey had changed. I don’t remember a particular milestone on the road nor a precise moment in time, but what had started life as a ‘Motorcycle Journey’ had somehow transformed into a ‘Journey by Motorcycle’. I was beginning to understand that what I was witnessing along the way wasn’t a true reflection of life, but a performance of life staged purely for the benefit of the foreigner 97 with the big shiny motorcycle. In every home that I’d been invited to enter, of which there were many, there’d always been a metaphorical elephant that I’d wanted to learn much more about; poverty, politics, inequality. But, in every home and village those elephants had been hiding in the shadow of the ever dominant Tiger. My European motorcycle had certainly opened the gates to remote communities in the middle of everywhere, but it had done so with the subtlety of a battering ram. In order to break down the barriers between myself and the communities that lay ahead of me, I needed to replace that battering ram with a much more sensitive key. In order to understand more about the real lives of those I was yet to meet, I realised that I needed to slow down the pace, become more anonymous and to start passing through the lives of others rather 98 WWW.THERIDERSDIGEST.CO.UK ISSUE 168 July 2012 than simply allowing others to pass fleetingly through mine. The Triumph Tiger 955i was an amazing motorcycle, but it was just a little too rude and conspicuous for my changing needs. There was no alternative, it had to go, but parting certainly wouldn’t come easily.. Back in 2008 I’d explained my initial travel plans to the good people at Triumph Motorcycles, and they’d offered me some quite unusual advice: “The Triumph Tiger won’t make it around the world because it’s just a street bike dressed in an adventure frock, so we advise you to buy a BMW.” Fifty thousand miles and thirtyfive countries later, having witnessed modern BMW’s and KTM’s expensively self-destructing across the wilds of Siberia, while my only mechanical failure had been a blown headlight 99 100 WWW.THERIDERSDIGEST.CO.UK ISSUE 168 July 2012 101 Join www.bikerdatinguk.com today! Find your perfect partner. Riders Digest Readers receive their 1st months full membership for £1.00 when they enter promotional code: riders1 This offer is valid until 15th July. Visit our website and nd out what we’re all about, you can join and browse our members for FREE! www.bikerdatinguk.com 102 WWW.THERIDERSDIGEST.CO.UK bulb in Vladivostok. Not too shabby for a tarted up street bike, but the time had come to start shopping for a more appropriate ride. What I needed was a simple and reasonably priced motorcycle, something that would blend into the vast Asian landscape and hopefully go unnoticed. Exactly four years after setting out from London on the Triumph, I’m now riding through the chaotic streets of Bangkok aboard a brand new red and white motorcycle. I’m five hundred pounds poorer, but I’m riding the most amazing motorcycle the world has ever seen. It’s certainly the most highly produced vehicle in history, and therefore I hope the most anonymous. It’s the motorcycle that quite literally changed the world, the motorcycle upon which you’ll meet the nicest people, the iconic Honda Super Cub. ISSUE 168 July 2012 Except that I’ve just bought the little red Super Cub in Bangkok, an absolutely amazing city, but a city where as the Ladyboys attest, things are seldom what they first appear to be. Despite the fact that I bought the motorcycle from one of Bangkok’s premier Honda dealerships, it’s not actually a Super Cub, in fact, it’s not even a Honda. I’ve just purchased a Tiger Retro 110, a Thai manufactured copy of the 1960’s Super Cub, or as the Tiger Motorcycle Company of Thailand prefer to call it, ‘a faithful reproduction’. However you’d like to describe it, and I’m sure that Honda purists have some colourful descriptions of their own, it’s time to see if this motorcycle is the subtle key that I’d hoped for. It’s the second week of April and the beginning of Thailand’s Song Kran Festival, the festival that marks the end of the dry season and the coming 103 104 WWW.THERIDERSDIGEST.CO.UK ISSUE 168 July 2012 105 The Perfect Biker’s Backpack... Pro-Sports 30Ltr £57.49 Roll-top 100% waterproof rucksack (Class 3) Protects contents from dust, sand, dirt and water ‘High Frequency’ welded construction Internal zip pocket Two-way sealing system (top or side) Padded shoulder straps and lumbar support Comfortable back panel with air-flow design Super reflective strips on the bag and both shoulder straps Adjustable sternum strap and waist belt Large elasticated mesh side pocket and a top carry handle Large front mesh zip pocket Full range of dry-bags, backpacks and waterproof cases for cameras, phones and iPads at www.overboard.com OFF ers % 5 1 ad st re ige 12* for D il 31/07/20 unt Discount Code: OBRIDERSDIGEST05 A few kilometres into my first journey on the smile inducing Tiger Retro 110, I turn off the main highway and steer gingerly into the temple at Lak Si. Thai’s are very fortunate, as Buddhist’s they can look forward to enjoying *Full-priced items only. Code valid for one purchase, including for multiple items. 106 of the monsoon rains. Traditionally this was the time when rice farming villagers in the North would take the remainder of their precious water to the temples and use it to cleanse the images of Buddha. In return for their offerings, they’d hope to receive good rains and good fortune for the coming year. Traditions such as these are often the earliest victims of progress, and in recent years Thailand’s economic and structural development has been remarkable, but when it comes to fitting square pegs into round holes, the Thai’s have an uncanny knack of making such unions seem quite natural. It was time for me to start finding out if Thailand’s progress had been kind to its culture. WWW.THERIDERSDIGEST.CO.UK ISSUE 168 July 2012 many lives, but as an atheist I’m well aware of my own mortality and would be happy to see my one and only life last just a little bit longer. ‘A faithful reproduction’ is probably a fair and accurate description of the Retro, because the Tiger Motor Company seems to have captured the warts of the original Honda Super Cub superbly well. With 1960’s leading link front suspension, rear suspension that prefers shocking to absorbing and drum brakes seemingly hewn from cheese, I discard my atheist leanings for a while and seek a helpful blessing from the monks. If I’d arrived here on the Triumph there’d be great ceremony now; tables laden with food and drink, beating drums and ringing bells, strings of fragrant orchids and the Abbot Monk at centre stage wearing his finest saffron robes. Today, the three novice monks finish contemplating the sports pages of their 107 108 WWW.THERIDERSDIGEST.CO.UK ISSUE 168 July 2012 109 OTHER ADVENTURE TRAVEL BOOKS repairing them, were drowning beneath several metres of putrid floodwater. But why should they know and why should they care? Thai’s recover quickly, it’s in their nature, they just seem to get over things and get on with things far more easily than we ever could in the West. COM BY SAM MANI 'A captivating book for all, this is the story of an enlightening, yet daunting journey across fourteen African countries by motorcycle.’ Aerostich 'This is a great adventure and a really enjoyable read.' Johnnie Walker - BBC Radio Two ‘Drive Time’ 'In the range of Motorcycle Travel Books out there, this one pulls no punches. In the gritty bits, you can feel the grit. I liked it a lot.' Motorcycle.co.uk 'The word-pictures that bring a good travel book to life are all here.’ The Road 'Sam has the skills of the story teller and this book easily transports you into three years of journey across Asia. He manages to bring the sounds, scents and heat of Asia to life without wordy overkill.’ Horizons Unlimited 'This is one helluvan adventure!' Canyonchasers.com ‘The thing I most enjoyed about this book was the feeling that I was there with him as he went through everything.’ London Bikers.com ‘A unique and wonderful adventure.’ Ted Simon author of Jupiter’s Travels This is a great story which reads with the ease of a novel. Distant Suns has it all: love, good guys, bad guys, beauty, danger, history, geography and last but not least-bikes! A fast, easy and thoroughly enjoyable read.' webbikeworld ‘Distant Suns doesn't just document the journey through Southern Africa and South America, Sam also describes cultural differences, traditions and lifestyles of the various countries they cross, whilst painting a vivid picture of the terrain they cross. A truly involving and enthralling read.' TBM - Trail Bike Magazine get your copies from: www.sam-manicom.com ‘where every day is an adventure’ or www.traveldriplus.com ‘quality kit for serious fun’ 110 WWW.THERIDERSDIGEST.CO.UK newspaper, take the final draws from their cigarettes and only then, rise to assist me. ‘Namo ta-sa, pa-ka ra- toe, ah-rah ha-toe, sam-ma, sam-pud ta-sah’. Three times they repeat the traditional Buddhist blessing before sprinkling the Retro with water and tying a simple white string loosely around its throttle. The Tiger Retro has passed its first test. It’s been blessed as any normal Thai scooter would be and our future happiness and safety is assured. The road heading north looks a little more promising now. A solitary monk stands silently beside me, watching the same group of people and gently nodding his head. He’s probably also wondering why so many fortunate people travel only to complain, but as a monk he keeps those thoughts to himself. He glances into my open notebook and then points towards the Retro, ‘Super Cub, it looks like new’. I tell him that it is new, but that it’s not a Super Cub, and that’s the end of the motorcycle conversation. We talk for an hour about his new life as a monk, and about his previous life as a wayward husband and absent father. The temple had been his saviour, taking him in and turning him around when life had seemed to have abandoned him. I’ve never before talked so openly or candidly with a monk, nor any other man of religion, but his duties at the temple are calling and we go our separate ways. I reach Ayutthaya, the ancient moated capital of Siam with its magnificent temples and countless images of Buddha. The recent flood waters have subsided and restoration work is well underway. High on ancient bamboo scaffolds, Thai workers toil beneath the burning sun, executing ancient skills with the most modern of cordless power tools. Below them, the early morning tourists are looking uncomfortably hot, sweating, wiping brows, complaining about the smell, the noise, the bugs and the heat. They seem oblivious to the fact that just a few weeks earlier these amazing structures, and no doubt the homes of those ISSUE 168 July 2012 111 112 WWW.THERIDERSDIGEST.CO.UK ISSUE 168 July 2012 113 pp121 TRD138 07/04/09 11:14 AM Page 1 Proven recommended and expert in rider claims The vast Central Plains of Thailand are absolutely flat, perfect for the 110ccs of the Retro but I suspect not so effective when it come to draining away unwanted floodwaters. I’ve ridden north from Bangkok for seven hours and the only hills that I’ve climbed have all been made by man. The Gulf of Thailand is at least three hundred kilometres to the south and probably less than a metre lower than where I’m standing now. I’ve stopped in a small village to replenish the Retro’s 3L fuel tank and chat idly with the attendant. I point to the traditional wooden houses built high on stilts, and then across the road to the modern Western style bungalows with concrete walls and front yards that are littered with flood damaged furniture and white goods. The attendant shrugs his shoulders, replaces the nozzle and begins to explain. He lives in the wooden house, the house that was built by his father, high from the ground, cool in summer and well above any floodwaters. His daughter What our clients say: "Special thanks to Michael Wheatley at RSS for all his support, good counsel, and all the little ways he went above and beyond." "It has only been 8mths and it’s all done and dusted. As well as being great solicitors they are also very friendly and understanding. Everything has been explained to me and they kept me up to date during this period." Helping motorcyclists since 1994 If you have been involved in an accident and would like our help call us 0208 246 4900 114 WWW.THERIDERSDIGEST.CO.UK ISSUE 168 July 2012 lives in one of the many modern bungalows, expensively air conditioned in summer and clearly susceptible to flooding. He doesn’t blame anybody for these errors of progress, or even suggest that they should return to the old ways of building houses, he just shrugs his weary shoulders again and mutters the Thai equivalent of ‘whatever’; ‘mai pen rai kap’. A little further north, I enter the town of Phi Chit where the local kids are waiting to greet me. Passing every humble home, cafe or market, buckets of water are thrown over me and if I dare to stop, my cheeks are lovingly plastered with a white menthol powder. I haven’t been singled out for such refreshing attention, in fact unless I lift my visor then they’ve no idea that I’m not Thai, but it’s clear that they don’t discriminate. It seems that everybody, even the passing motorcycle policeman, is a legitimate target in these parts. The Thai tradition of cleansing the images of Buddha at Son Kran 115 116 WWW.THERIDERSDIGEST.CO.UK ISSUE 168 July 2012 117 ADVENTURE TRAVEL BOOKS Bright orange tractors have replaced the ‘tak-taks’ and buffalo that used to work the rice fields, everybody has a phone that’s far smarter than mine, every wooden shack has its own large satellite dish and nobody drives a car that’s less fashionable than the designer labels that they wear. Suddenly, I feel like the poorest guy in the village, but I’m not, I just don’t have as many credit cards. Asian, African, European, American, between us we have many differences, but it seems that we’re all swimming in exactly the same dream pool. COM BY SAM MANI Into Africa - Under Asian Skies - Distant Suns - and now... TORTILLAS to TOTEMS Sam Manicom’s latest travel book takes you on a gripping rollercoaster of a two-wheeled journey across the dramatic landscapes of Mexico, the USA and Canada. There are canyons, cowboys, idyllic beaches, bears, mountains, Californian vineyards, gun-toting policemen with grudges, glaciers, exploding volcanoes, dodgy border crossings and some of the most stunning open roads that a traveller could ever wish to see. What do the reviewers say about Sam Manicom’s books? 'One of the best story tellers of adventure in the world today.' Side Stand Up Radio - USA World of BMW - ‘Inspirational Reading’ Motorcycle Monthly - ‘Sam Manicom’s books are highly recommended’ London Bikers - ‘Compelling Reading’ Moto Guzzi Club - ‘Sam has the gift to describe people and places!’ Honda Trail Bike Riders - ‘Completely engaging’ BM Riders Club - ‘Superbly entertaining’ The Road Magazine - ‘Masterful writing’ TBM – Trail Bike Magazine - ‘Truly involving and enthralling’ The Riders Digest - ‘Technicolour descriptions’ City Bike Magazine USA - ‘Clear and unpretentious’ Motorcycle Sport and Leisure - ‘One of the world’s leading motorcycle authors’ ISBN: 978-0955657337 from ‘Few travel writers can conjure up sights and smells so provocatively as Sam’ The Daily Record TORTILLAS to TOTEMS SIDETRACKED BY THE UNEXPECTED 118 WWW.THERIDERSDIGEST.CO.UK www.sam-manicom.com has progressed, and it appears that Northern Thailand is currently engaged in the world’s largest ever water fight. It’s fun and their enthusiasm is addictive, so I park the Retro, grab myself a water scoop and join them until darkness dictates that we stop. I’m spending the night at the family home of my good friend Nongnoo in the small village of Noen Kum. I sit down to eat dinner with grandparents, young nursing mothers and children of all ages. Aside from my friend Nongnoo and her nursing sisters, there’s nobody of working-age at the table, an entire generation seems to be missing. In fact, I don’t really recall seeing many people of workingage all day, aside that is from those who I’d actually seen working. I pose the question and the answer isn’t quite what I’d expected. I’m told that those who are able to work will be working throughout the whole of the Song Kran holiday. Apparently it didn’t used to be this way, entire families always came together for the festival, but in these days of easy credit and minimum monthly payments, the aspirations of parents have become the expectations of their children. Isuzu D-Max trucks, iPhones, plasma TV’s and scooters all cost money, money that’s readily available via Mastercard and Visa, so the workers work in order to keep up with their payments. Looking around me I can see exactly what they mean. ISSUE 168 July 2012 Rolling into remote Asian villages aboard the Tiger Retro 110, I tend not to get noticed. Shoulders back and head held high, the Retro buzzes and the people simply ignore me and carry on with their everyday lives. I pull to a dusty halt, kill the engine and absolutely nothing unusual happens. Aboard the little scooter I’m blending in, an invisible part of the massive cultural scenery and able to observe without being observed. Of course, once I park and dismount the people realise that I’m not local and ask questions, but the nature of their questions has changed. Unlike the Triumph Tiger 955i the Tiger Retro 110 isn’t important or special to anybody, it casts no unwanted shadows. A barrier between us had been removed and our conversations are now about the most important things in all of our lives: People and Life. Blue88 Photographs by Blue88 & Nongnoo Chachawna 119 FastesT D ocumentary film maker Mark Neale once worked as a motorcycle despatch rider in London, which makes him a thoroughly fitting subject for a magazine that started life as reading matter for the capital’s bike-borne couriers. He’s come a long way since he worked for Security Despatch though… If you haven’t heard of Mark you should at least have heard of his most recent and much-lauded film Fastest. But if even that has passed you by, I’ll start by saying that I can highly recommend a viewing. The film gives a fascinating insight into what makes the gods of MotoGP tick, with the riders and their closest supporters talking frankly to Mark, intercut with some of the most memorable racing highlights of recent seasons. But it’s been a long and convoluted route from London DR to L.A.-based filmmaker… His early films were connected with rock music, ranging from Jimi Hendrix to U2, before making a quirky but very well received documentary, No Maps For These Territories about William Gibson, author of the groundbreaking sci-fi 120 WWW.THERIDERSDIGEST.CO.UK ISSUE 168 July 2012 novel Neuromancer and the man who coined the term ‘cyberspace’. Neale’s first film about motorcycle racing was released in 2002. Faster could be described as the ‘pre-quel’ to Fastest since it too was all about the premier class of road racing, in the era when Rossi was the newly-crowned king on a Honda, having wrested it from Suzukimounted Kenny Roberts Jnr. His other main rival was Yamaha-mounted Max Biaggi along with the likes of Gary McCoy, Alex Barros and Sete Gibernau (remember them?). I haven’t seen Faster, but would certainly like to, since I’ve been a fan of bike racing since Phil Read and Giacomo Agostini were still winning on MVs, the Isle of Man Senior TT was still the British Grand Prix and Barry Sheene was the new kid on the block. One quirk of fate which helped Mark Neale in his quest to make Faster is that as a former resident of Barcelona he not only spoke Spanish but also the local Catalan lingo, and MotoGP is run by an outfit called Dorna who are essentially a bunch of Catalunyans. (The 121 Jorge Lorenzo 122 WWW.THERIDERSDIGEST.CO.UK ISSUE 168 July 2012 123 Cal Crutchlow speaks after the London Premier of Fastest nearest Brit analogy I can think of would be if they were Glasgow-based and he could speak Glaswegian like Rab C. Nesbitt). Mark told me that he moved to Barcelona in the early eighties after his stretch as a despatch rider, “Because I wanted to travel, and live somewhere warm and sunny. I was so pissed off with riding my bike in the rain.” At the time, Mark owned, “A terrible Yamaha XS750 with a Pantera fairing. It was a pig and I crashed it about six times, but it wasconsidered super exotic and cool in Spain because they did not have them – more exotic than the Guzzi Le Mans and Laverda Jotas that they did have, and which I craved.” Mark taught English in Barcelona and also worked with classical concert promoters. Bike-wise, he moved on to that old despatch-rider’s favourite, the Honda CX500. Another thing that helped Mark get Faster made was that he had the chutzpah to tell everyone that Ewan McGregor was going to be doing the voice-over when he’d never actually met the Scottish film star. Mark told me the story of how Mr McGregor finally did get involved. “I’d tried getting in touch with him through agents and other ways for months to no avail, but through a friend of a friend I finally managed to get a rough cut of the film to him when he was making Big Fish in Alabama in Having done the voice-over, Ewan also helped to promote the finished film at the Cannes film festival, when he joined a whole posse of MotoGP stars, including Rossi, on a mixture of road and race bikes for a barely-legal ride along the famous Croisette, culminating in a series of burn-outs outside the cinema. There’s a great three minute video of this unofficial ‘Cannes Grand Prix’ on YouTube. http://www.youtube. com/watch?v=nADH_o0Nk48 Mark recalls, “Ewan also did the voice-over for the second disc in the DVD box, about the 2003/4 season. We recorded it in Alaska, where it was still light at midnight, when he was in the middle of riding The Long Way Round.” And if you imagined that Mr McGregor required a large fee for his valuable services, you’d be wrong… Neale sums up simply, “Ewan has been a totally solid friend and trooper.” In 2005 Neale made a film about the return of motorcycle grand prix racing to the USA based around the MotoGP at Laguna Seca called The Doctor, The Tornado and The Kentucky Kid but then he had a life-changing experience. He had a skateboard accident, which, paradoxically, probably saved his life. It resulted in him having a brain scan, which revealed that he had no fewer than three aneurisms. Bizarrely, it turned out they were the result of a car crash he’d suffered decades earlier when he was only five years old and he’d been through the windscreen. In 2007 Mark underwent major brain surgery during which the surgeons were in and out of his brain no fewer than six times! Ewan McGregor & Mark Neale at Cannes in 2003 Photo: © Grant Gee Texan Ben Spies on the Tech3 Satellite Yamaha in 2010 124 February of 2003. He called back within four hours and left a message on my answerphone speaking in a mock Valentino Rossi accent!” WWW.THERIDERSDIGEST.CO.UK ISSUE 168 July 2012 125 Casey Stoner on the 800 Ducati 126 WWW.THERIDERSDIGEST.CO.UK ISSUE 168 July 2012 127 recommend. (A shortened, one-hour version is included in the DVD set of TT3D: Closer to the Edge). Traveldri-Plus Quality Kit For Serious Fun! Mark Neale shooting a bunny at Silverstone in 2010 Photo: © Stephen Hopper All I can say is that you’d never know it to meet him and, as he wrote to me in an email, “That was five years ago and the glue’s still holding.” Not content with merely surviving brain surgery with all his ‘marbles’ Mark undertook not one but two motorcycle film projects pretty much simultaneously. The first would become Fastest while the other would become Charge, about the first two zero emissions races on the Isle of Man (which is how I first came to meet him during the 2009 TT). The story of Charge is well worth an article to itself; suffice it to say that it was an extremely difficult film to make for a whole variety of reasons, but that it ended up being a really great movie, which I highly The making of Fastest did not exactly run smoothly either. As Mark explained in the Q&A session which I saw him give after a screening of the film in LA (as mentioned in TRD 165) it was not a big-budget movie. $850,000 counts as pretty small beer these days, even for a documentary, and he produced much of it operating as a ‘one man band’. When he went to Rossi’s home town of Tavullia, for example, where ‘bikes are more important than football’ and he got some great interviews with fervent long time Rossi supporters, he was completely on his own, doing his best to understand their local Italian and to make himself understood with a mixture of French and Catalan… Mark even did most of the subtitling for the film himself, with the help of Tita Rosenthal a Professor of Renaissance studies at the University of Southern California. www.traveldriplus.com Mail Order Hotline 01647 24523 128 WWW.THERIDERSDIGEST.CO.UK ISSUE 168 July 2012 129 Rossi leads Lorenzo at Le Mans 130 WWW.THERIDERSDIGEST.CO.UK ISSUE 168 July 2012 131 In Fastest, not only do we see the great footage of Rossi’s almost unbelievable overtake of Stoner in the dirt of the vertiginous Corkscrew at Laguna Seca in 2008, but we also hear both men talking about it, separately. Stoner says, “It’s not a contact sport” while Rossi says “I never touched him” but it’s clear from the footage that if Stoner hadn’t taken evasive action Rossi would almost certainly have had them both off. Stoner adds thoughtfully, “Sometimes he’s clean as a whistle, sometimes Vale leaves his brain out” and then adds, somewhat presciently, “What goes around comes around!” Mark Neale in Sepang, Jan. 2011 with Valentino Rossi’s new Ducati leathers Photo: ©Azi Farni Fastest undoubtedly revolves around Valentino Rossi, and some people have criticised it for this, as Mark is well aware, but he’s happy to defend the story that his film tells. After all, it’s worth remembering that between 2001 and 2009, Rossi won all but two of the nine MotoGP championships, despite switching from Honda to the unfancied Yamaha in 2004. (Nicky Hayden would be the first to admit that he was extremely lucky to pip Rossi to the championship in 2006 and Stoner was much assisted by the switch to 800cc in 2007). Even by 2009 Valentino had won more grand prix than any rider except Giacomo Agostini who, great rider though he was, had superior machinery to his rivals for most of his career. Not for nothing was Rossi nick-named ‘The Goat’ – The Greatest Of All Time. And besides, one of the fascinating things about Fastest is the way it shows Rossi’s crown slipping as he battles with both injury and the impressive skills of Stoner, Pedrosa and above all, Jorge Lorenzo. 132 Lorenzo is like a young wolf challenging the leader of the pack. At one point he says memorably, ‘Valentino is not a god. You can beat him’. And while the film starts with one of Rossi’s most impressive overtakes ever, in the final corner, to win the 2009 Catalan Grand Prix, it also shows that Lorenzo learns from that chastening experience and has the skills to beat even Rossi at his best, later in the year, and above all, in 2010. It also shows that Casey Stoner is a different kind of rider altogether, quite possibly the only one in the paddock who would have packed up and gone home, mid-season, to sort out his mysterious malady (which turned out to be lactose intolerance) only to come back keener than ever to win at home in Oz. The film ends before the start of Rossi’s disastrous 2011 season with Ducati, but in the light of what happened last year you can’t help having huge respect for what Stoner achieved on the difficult-to-ride Ducati in the previous four years. WWW.THERIDERSDIGEST.CO.UK Stoner is clearly the complete opposite of a ‘do or die’ rider like Marco Simoncelli and I use the phrase advisedly since of course Simoncelli was tragically killed at the Malaysian Grand Prix in 2011, only a few weeks after Fastest was released. When I first saw the film at its Leicester Square premier in September last year, Simoncelli was still alive so it added a terrible poignancy when I saw the film in L.A. last December to know that he’d been killed as a result of crashing under the wheels of Colin Edwards and Rossi himself. Rossi (who was great friends with Marco) even describes the time he put Sete Gibernau into the dirt at the final corner of the 2005 Spanish Grand Prix as ‘a Simoncelli move’. Mike Scott, who’s been reporting on Grand Prix for decades, says of Rossi, “He’s a charmer, but he’s also a ruthless killer.” On the commentary, Ewan McGregor reminds us that Gibernau never won another race, much like Biaggi, who was an earlier victim of the Rossi psych-out treatment. Neale says of Fastest’s storyline, “I knew I wanted to go back to the point where Rossi Rossi breaks his leg at Mugello ISSUE 168 July 2012 133 Mark Neale shoots Casy Stoner at Slverstone, 2010 Photo: © Stephen Potter Mark Neale and camera at Silverstone in 2010 Photo: © Stephen Hopper 134 WWW.THERIDERSDIGEST.CO.UK ISSUE 168 July 2012 135 50-51booksdvds_Layout 1 22/05/2012 11:41 Page 1 Ben Spies and his Yamaha hit the tarmac in 2010 left Honda at the end of 2003 and include the greatest moments from all the years in between. But when he broke his leg at Mugello (in June 2010), the investors got cold feet especially after Kevin Schwantz said he thought Rossi might retire. The rest of the film is about his comeback… but with the other riders weaved in.” The film certainly shows the highs and lows of MotoGP. I’ve followed it pretty keenly over the period the film covers, but I still learnt plenty of new and interesting things from watching it. For example, I didn’t realise that Rossi’s Mugello crash meant that he missed a GP for the very first time in fifteen seasons of racing. I knew that he’d hurt his shoulder crashing on a motocross circuit in the off season (and there’s some great footage showing that Rossi is no slouch on a motocrosser), but I didn’t know that his dad Graziano had warned him against doing it. Nor did I know that Rossi senior actually ‘died’ for a few minutes when he was riding in GPs, only to be revived by Dr Costa and his ‘clinica mobile’. Costa talks about the improvements in rider safety in the intervening thirty years, pointing out that the combination of much larger run-off areas and vastly improved riding gear means that most injuries these days are to the riders’ hands, feet, ankles and collar bones. Cue lots of scary highsides to remind us of just how those injuries come about; it’s actually pretty amazing how many the riders manage to walk away from. 136 Talking of ankles, I knew that in his first year in MotoGP, Jorge Lorenzo had, almost unbelievably, finished second at Le Mans despite riding with two broken ankles suffered at the previous race in Japan, but I didn’t know that he’d been far more shaken by another crash which had left him concussed and perhaps paradoxically, finally aware of his own mortality. Colin Edwards talks memorably about the multiple pile-up in which he thought Marco Melandri had died right in front of him. Some of the best bits of the film are actually the least spectacular, when the top men are simply talking one to one with Mark while driving a car gently around a deserted circuit. This is a technique which Neale first used when he made the film with and about William Gibson, but it works perfectly here because, as Mark told me, “It’s much quieter than filming in the paddock and there are no handlers or PR people to interrupt!” There’s technical analysis in the film too from the likes of Rossi’s long time crew chief Jerry Burgess and Eurosport’s tech-expert Neil Spalding. It’s explained why bike frames have to be able to ‘bend like a tree’ in order for their suspension to work while cranked beyond 50 degrees and we discover that when Lorenzo says “If you improve the brakes I will lap three tenths of a second faster” that’s exactly what he will then do. We’re also reminded that MotoGP whether you’re a Rossi, Lorenzo, Stoner or indeed a Crutchlow supporter, I suspect you won’t be disappointed if you splash out some books&DVDsbooks&DVDsbooks&DVDsbooks&DVDsbooks of your hard-earned on the DVD. In fact Cal Fastest ends with Rossi’s near-miraculous was at that Leicester Square premier and said return to winning form after breaking his how much he’d enjoyed it, and how well he leg, and the young Lion Lorenzo stealing thought it portrayed the off-track aspects of his crown. I don’t think many people would cares to remember! He made the takes you back to when British Ken Sprayson – hero of the MotoGP Here’s hoping that the sequel have predicted Rossi’s apparently insoluble first Norton featherbed industry led the worldlife. and British the IoM TT with the TT production frame, helped design bikes were setting the pace. shows Cructhlow’s rise to MotoGP glory as the problems at Ducati since, Stoner’s domination Welding service! Ken’s book will be launched at and produce the Dragonfly first British champion in the premier class of of the 2011 season back with Honda, or indeed the International Classic Bike frame, developed the Earles fork Every year for 50 years, from into the legendary Reynolds Show at Stafford, April 28-29 1958 young to 2008, Ken, welding torch declaration road racing since Barry Sheene in 1977! the Australian’s that he will Racing fork, made innovative where Ken will be a guest of in hand, repaired the damage honour surrounded by some of and successful racing frames for retire at the end of 2012 while still at the peak wrought by these infamous roads the many racing specials for Geoff Duke, Jeff Smith, Mike on racing frames. of his powers. Paul Blezard Hailwood, and John Surtees and which he designed and built the He ran a completely free bikes are faster on both acceleration and top speed than F1 cars. Ken Sprayson the frame man welding service for novices and world champions alike, giving many others. At Reynolds he became the of making light but strong Will there be aforsequel tomaster Fastest? Mark Neale his time and expertise no welded frames from Reynolds reward and always a perfect job certainly hopes so, and so do I, but he says, 531 tubing. He was so good “It’s he done with a smile! To racers with even made the frame for Thrust 2 broken Kendeal. was little not a bikes done ” Inshort the meantime I will happily the British World Land Speed of a saint. car propelled by watch foramong a fourthrecord timebreaking and hope some Ken hasFastest been a legend a jet engine. motorcycle racers enthusiasts of you will atand least feel moved to have a gander This is a fantastic book which for more years than he probably at the trailer. If you’re already a MotoGP fan, It’s a l a ste frames. Publication: April The DVD is 2012. £9.99 while the Blue-ray is £15.99 Recommended price £14.95 (includes UK p&p when ISBN 978-0-9564975-6-7 ordered from Panther Panther Publishing Ltd. www.fastestthemovie.com Publishing) [email protected] 229 pages, 234 x 176mm, panther-publishing.com softback, 170 photos and Foreword by Malc Wheeler of www.chargemovie.comClassic Racer illustrations. All 5 for £36 inc P&P! By Ian Mutch www.mutchmotorcyclebooks.com Low Rider Harley to Mali £7.99 £7.99 plus £1.50 P&P plus £1.50 P&P Marco Simoncelli leads Toni Elias at Sachenring in 2011 Photo: © Paul Blezard Looking For America £7.99 plus £1.50 P&P Riding with the Beast £7.99 plus £1.50 P&P Picture book A4 Motorcycles Forever £12.99 plus £1.50 P&P If these books donʼt make you smile, seek medical help Twitter @IanMutch WWW.THERIDERSDIGEST.CO.UK 50 The ROAD ISSUE 168 July 2012 For payment details emaikl me: [email protected] cheques or paypal at present no cards, sorry 137 Recession? What Recession! The Riderʼs Digest is going from strength to strength so if you want to put your product or service in front of over 10,000 of the most dedicated biking enthusiasts then contact us to place your advert right where this one is... Call Peter Martin on: 01666 505295 138 Email: [email protected] WWW.THERIDERSDIGEST.CO.UK ISSUE 168 July 2012 139 140 WWW.THERIDERSDIGEST.CO.UK ISSUE 168 July 2012 141 142 WWW.THERIDERSDIGEST.CO.UK ISSUE 168 July 2012 143 A Hero. Today, like before. Sportsuite Race-Evo Art. 5212 £ 1,199.99 Boots Thunder Sport Art. 8060 £ 164.99 Gloves RS-1000 Art. 2224 £ 164.99 Telephone: 01423 790 121 // 144 www.facebook.com/heldriderequipment Riders and Roadcraft (Part 1) by Jonathan Boorstein O ne of the great pleasures of collecting and reading old motorcycling books are the glimpses into riding in years, if not decades, gone by. The Rudge Book of the Road, for example, was published by Rudge Whitworth Ltd in Coventry between the wars to help buyers of Rudge motorcycles better enjoy their new vehicles. “In presenting this book to you, we hope we shall add still further to the endless fascination and satisfaction of owning a Rudge motor-cycle,” writes John V. Pugh, Rudge Whitworth’s chairman in the Introduction. He goes on to say, “And because most of us are motor-cyclists ourselves and know and love the old romance of the road, we have talked of that also.” Helmet Brave Art. 7140 starting at £ 124.99 Held celebrates its anniversary; 66 years of experience and continuous development let a simple product become a Hero. Globally renowned quality and innovation for 66 years, produced with passion and real world function, phenomenal comfort and safety come as standard. A Hero – today, like before. BOOK REVIEW: since 1946 www.held-uk.co.uk WWW.THERIDERSDIGEST.CO.UK The book charms before the modern reader gets that far. Bound in cheap buff leather, it could be held safe and closed by a tab and snap while riding those romantic roads, The Rudge Book sold for an extravagant 2/6 (that’s two shillings and sixpence or ISSUE 168 July 2012 12.5p – Ed). The end papers are decorated with a repeated motif of a rider hunched over his motorcycle, a setting sun, and a tree that looks like a leaf. There are line drawings and old photographs as illustrations, including one of a Rudge with a sidecar as well as pulling a caravan. My favorite is a gentleman in plus-fours servicing his Rudge. Oil and grease? What oil and grease? The heart of the book – beyond the ongoing salespitch about the wonders of the wonderful Rudge – is how to enjoy and care for the motorcycle (or motorcycle); what laws the rider has to obey; how to tour Britain; and the like. Chapter Six offers “Weather Wisdom on the Road”: how to identify clouds and what each type of cloud means in terms of weather conditions. “By Sun and Signpost” provides instructions about how to tell direction using trees and watches (wrist as well as pocket; this is after the Great War, as it is called here). The chapter also recommends 20mph as a comfortable touring speed; 30 is strictly for the young and the vigorous. Another chapter is virtually a field guide to British architecture in general and church architecture in particular. (My academic field is architectural history; this chapter is a rather good quick-start.) There’s a chart of ferry fees, both with and without sidecar. Crossing the Thames from Woolwich to North Woolwich was free in the 1920s (and is still free today – Ed), but crossing from Tilbury to Gravesend was 7d; 10d if there was a sidecar. A “lamplighter’s guide” would keep the rider compliant with a law that required license plates be illuminated within half an hour after sunset: roughly 8.50 p.m. on 1 July, but 8.35 on 20 July. Maps are in the back. “Taking your Rudge abroad” urges the rider to “Visit your 145 FATMAGGOT.COM Custom Printing for Bike Clubs Shops & Events war time haunts”. France’s Routes Nationales are touted as “The safest speedways this side of the Statue of Liberty”. Later the reader is warned that French for petrol is essence. “Petrole over there means paraffin, and even a Rudge grudges to run on such a fuel.” Other chapters cover the law, regular maintenance, and troubleshooting. There are two on racing, one in general and the other on the T.T. A later chapter includes a bibliography for further reading, including a section called “The Spirit of the Open”, which is a list of books about traveling that open and romantic road. Authors whose works are cited include Hilaire Belloc, E.V. Lucas, and G.K. Chesterton, none of whose travel pieces are read today. Biker Gifts Very Rude T Shirts Full onsite setup for printing at rallies/shows Of course how-to books are nothing new. The oldest one I clothing - mugs - promotional items 07905 440970 / [email protected] 146 WWW.THERIDERSDIGEST.CO.UK can think of off the top of my head is Aristotle’s Poetics, or how to write a play. Whether Aristotle ever wrote one himself remains an open question. Baldassare Castiglione’s Book of the Courtier – or How to Win Friends and Influence People for the English Renaissance set – set the standard for the perfect British gentleman back in the 16th century, a model that continued well into the 20th. Castiglione’s ideal of sprezzatura (the easy grace that conceals – as much as it is the result of – practice and hard work) nevertheless lingers, though mostly as attitude in the worlds of art, fashion, entertainment, and sports. Not all how-to books have the shelf life of Aristotle or Castiglione. The first editions of Mrs Beeton’s Book of Household Management (1861) are read today for its insights and information about domestic arrangements and management in the Victorian Age (if not laughs) than it is as guide for contemporary “household management”. Old motorcycling manuals – as well as new ones – cover such necessary skills and background knowledge as: how motorcycles work; how to ride ISSUE 168 July 2012 one, from basic handling to rules of the road; how to dress and prepare for a ride; what to do after a license is obtained, from racing to touring; and how to connect to the wider biking community, from media to organizations. But once the up-to-the-minute information has gone past its due date, the book becomes a quaint and amusing piece of time, petrified in print. In The Motorcycle Handbook (1975), Bob Clampett not only introduces the new rider to the two-stroke and four-stroke motors, but also the then radically new rotary that Suzuki had just introduced to the market. Other topical references include calling tourers “easy riders” from the film released a few years earlier as well as a final chapter entitled “And Then Came You”, which recalls a shortlived TV program, Then 147 The British Complete Motorcyclist’s Handbook (1981) doesn’t age that much better despite the best efforts of its editor, David Minton, and such contributors as Peter Bickerstaff, then the Technical Officer of the Vincent Owners Club, and Mike Hailwood, the famous motorcycle racer who was killed in a car accident shortly after completing his pieces for the book. Less twee are instructions for bump starting and basic maintenance, the latter illustrated with a bearded and shaggy model already anachronistic in the then ascendancy of the yuppies. Minton confronts and confounds the new rider with such motorcycle categories as “megacycles” and “paradoxycles”. The former is defined as bikes for which quantity tops quality and size trumps performance. He cites Harley-Davidson as an example. Paradoxycles are concept bikes with unresolved elements. MZ and BSA are among the marques of motorcycles Minton discusses more seriously. Bennett notes that the rotary engine is now dead, adding Came Bronson, featuring a motorcyclist in search of himself and decent ratings, ultimately finding neither. The chapter on “Learning to Ride” recommends Yamaha’s “Learn to Ride Safely” launched in 1973, the same year as the Motorcycle Safety Foundation (MSF) began its programs. Clampett also suggests that the new rider insist on instruction from the dealership as a condition for buying a motorcycle. The checklist to start a bike includes: “Keeping your weight on your left leg, pull up the side kickstand. Place the ball of your right foot on the kick-starter, and kick it through, firmly, all in one movement. If it doesn’t start, release the throttle, open it again to about one-quarter, and try again. It should start.” Right. 148 WWW.THERIDERSDIGEST.CO.UK ISSUE 168 July 2012 More than a decade later, Jim Bennett attempts humor in The Complete Motorcycle Book (1995) when he starts his how-to manual by recommending that parents don’t “Just Say No” when their 14-year-old son informs them he wants to ride a motorcycle. It isn’t until the end of the chapter that Bennett acknowledges that the reader of the book may not in fact be a parent facing a stubborn child, but someone who wants to ride himself. It isn’t until the end of the book that Bennett acknowledges that the reader may not in fact be male, but female. 149 vehicles. But the mechanics of learning to ride, riding, and maintaining a bike are completely recognizable. that its “last producer, Norton, fell victim to Thatcherism, the leveraged buy-out greed of the ‘80s, and Reagonomics”. He feels that only the fourstroke is the proven winner, but does explain all three engine types. By the 90s, the café racer has made enough of a comeback that Bennett feels obligated to warn readers that such bikes are not for everyone. He determines that the annual cost for the first year a rider has a new motorcycle is $5,292. Bennett even tosses in his three golden rules for safe riding: wear a helmet; don’t drink and drive; and take a motorcycle safety course. “Discover your inner biker!” touts the cover of The Everything Motorcycle Book by A.J. Drew (2002). Presumably Drew, whose expertise is in HarleyDavidsons, is not responsible for that dated comment. A decade is a long time with both vernacular and 150 Furthermore, Drew goes beyond what the earlier howto manuals covered, going deeper into insurance issues and including a chapter about “When You Have to Hit Something”. Usually when bikers hit something, it’s an accident; but then again, most bikers don’t ride a Hog. He even covers “Biker Fashion Faux Pas”: no chains connecting the wallet to the belt; no fringe on the leathers; no studs or spurs – as dangerous in a crash as they are to chrome and metal; and no long hair worn loose. Drew ’s recommendation that riders “Pack a cell phone even if you don’t plan to use it” in case of emergencies is hysterical a decade later, but not in a good way. As for actually learning to ride, while he doesn’t stint on written instructions, he tows the official line about the (very real) benefits of MSF beginning riding classes: an automatic license upon successful completion of the course in some states and reduced insurance rates. The Motorcycle Book by Alan Seeley. This how-to manual has lots of color pictures, four logical sections, and all but ignores the existence of any engine but the four-stroke. The two-stroke is noted in glorified passing, while the rotary goes unmentioned. We are now in the age of the “contemporary” how to ride a motorcycle book. Or rather books. Currently available to the aspiring rider are Let’s Ride: Sonny Barger’s Guide to Motorcycling (2010); the fifth edition of The Complete Idiot’s Guide to Motorcycles (2011); and Shifting Gears at 50: A Motorcycling Guide for New and Returning Riders (2012). The Idiot’s Guide also carries the endorsement of Motorcyclist magazine, while Shifting Gears is associated with Rider magazine. Darwin Holmstrom is listed as the name author on the previous four editions of the Idiot’s Guides and as co-author of Let’s Ride. That’s five how- to-ride books in the last fourteen years. Let’s start with Let’s Ride, which is both the most interesting and most entertaining of the three. Since I don’t know how well-known Barger is outside the U.S., I’ll give him a brief introduction. Barger organized and built the Hells Angels into an international organization, not only becoming one of its more visible members, but also one of its more notorious. He wound up serving a couple of sentences in jail, whether justifiably or not depends upon whom you ask, the day of the week, and the phase of the moon. A seventy-something cancer survivor, his current causes include motorcycle safety and branding himself. Let’s Ride is a good example of the Only a year younger and effectively immune to the humor of 20/20 hindsight is WWW.THERIDERSDIGEST.CO.UK ISSUE 168 July 2012 former; peddling logo tee shirts, baseball caps, wine, and even hot sauce (Sonny Barger’s Hellfire Sauces!) among other items on his website (www.sonnybarger. com) the latter. He also has a Facebook page and a Twitter account (@sonny_barger). Don’t laugh: he successfully branded the Hells Angels and is well on the way to success with his current project. He is one one-percenter who seems determined to become a member of the other one percent. The book covers the expected: what a motorcycle is (only the four-stroke is discussed); what to ride; how to ride (basic and advanced); buying a bike (new or used); how to care for a bike; as well as clubs, organization, and other resources for new and experienced riders. The sauce for the meat, however, is Barger himself who turns out to be chatty and entertaining. It is always a mistake to try to guess who did what (and, in some cases, to whom) in any form of collaboration, but I would venture to say Holmstrom goes beyond just translating Barger thoughts and experience to the printed page. He provides why someone should read the book while Barger’s personality makes it fun to read. Barger lives to ride, not wrench, and so spurns custom and vintage motorcycles. He also spurns Harleys in favor of Victories, an increasingly common choice among the “Buy American” crowd and something The Motor Company should think about. He favors helmets, not just because of safety, but also because he can’t ride without them. A laryngectomy makes it impossible for him to breathe while riding without a full-face helmet. (This is also true for riders with respiratory problems from less extreme causes than throat cancer.) The book comes alive when Barger gets personal or goes on a rant. In some places, it sounds almost maternal: “Do whatever it takes to clear your head including going to the bathroom”; in others, paranoid: “When riding on public highways, I recommend adopting the attitude that every single person on the road is a sociopathic serial killer who has just escaped from an asylum for the criminally insane… whose sole purpose is to kill you”. In not quite the same breath, he blames the use of cell phones by motorists while driving for the rising number of road accidents in general and those killing motorcyclists in particular. And then of course there’s the do-what-I-say151 and-not-what-I-do advice. He recommends bikes in bright colors for visibility, adding that he’ll only ride black bikes. Holmstrom, a professional writer, provides the scaffolding for all that opinion. Here is the pitch for the MSF as well as its T-CLOCK list of things to check on a motorcycle before each ride (Tires & wheels, Controls, Lights, Oil, Chassis, and Kickstand). There is the clunker only a ghostwriter would use, “purpose-built race bike” (page 86). Purposebuilt is a reading phrase not a speaking phrase and breaks the illusion of Barger talking directly to the reader. Later commenting on a bit of legislation, there is “[p]rotecting fools from themselves seems a futile activity to me, but I digress”. The attitude sounds like Barger; the phrasing, Holmstrom. Holmstrom was also responsible for the first four editions of The Complete Idiot’s Guide to Motorcycles.The fifth edition was taken over by another professional word slinger, John L. Stein. While it is unlikely that anyone in his or her right mind would ever read -- or need -- the earlier editions, some changes are worth noting. The first edition included a reference card of state motorcycle requirements, screwy little 152 drawings accompanying asides, definitions, or call-out quotes, as well as a dry, but delicious, forward by television personality Jay Leno. “Motorcyclogy” features tips and tidbits illustrated by a police officer; “Cycle Babble”, definitions of technical and sub-cultural terms, a cartoon motorcycle with a head for a headlight; and “Steer Clear”, what not to do, a road sign proclaiming “slippery when wet”. By the current edition, the cartoons have been replaced by a light bulb, an open book, and a step ladder with a stick figure respectively. Instead of being placed in highlighted boxes these elements are just indented blocks of type. Leno’s forward has disappeared, but his cover endorsement quote remains: “As both an idiot and a motorcyclist, I found this book very helpful”. Most people do find Idiot’s Guides helpful. A popular and successful series each volume uses humor and trivia to make ostensibly difficult subjects easy. A modular formula that is consistent from how-to book to how-to book helps as well. Someone who found one book in the series helpful would probably find another helpful as well. The humor and personalization can create problems as revised editions are released. Both Holmstrom’s fourth edition and Stein’s fifth edition begin with an introduction about the presumed author’s grandfather, a serious motorcyclist, who worked for Norton. Does that mean if I were to revise The Idiot’s Guide for the sixth edition I could have a grandfather who worked for Norton as well? Other attempts to revise the guide do not fare much better. In a discussion about the reliability of midcentury British motorcycles, Holmstrom originally wrote: “More than one rider saw pistons, valves, and connecting rods flying from their engines as they exploded like grenades between the riders’ legs”. By the fourth edition, this has been revised to: “more than one rider saw pistons, valves, and connecting rods flying from their engines as the exploded like oily grenades just below their baby-making equipment”. There was no need for revision and, since it WWW.THERIDERSDIGEST.CO.UK is clear Holmstrom is thinking of the male rider, it would have been less vulgar to have said crotch or balls. From the first edition, the series has always focused on the four-stroke, affectionately dismissing the two-stroke in a handful of paragraphs and the note: “Two-strokes tend to have power-delivery characteristics best suited for experienced, slightly insane motorcyclists”. If it matters, Holmstrom’s “purpose-built” appears on page 38 of the first edition; had migrated to page 42 of the fourth; and settled, for now, on page 43 in the fifth. More reasonable revisions include up to date information on current motorcycle models and an excellent chapter about trikes, sidecars, and electric bikes. Earlier editions had all but overlooked trikes and sidecars, even though they have been around for about as long as motorcycles. Stein treats electric bikes as exciting new technology, much as Clampett discussed the potential of the rotary engine. It would have been nice, though, if Stein had skipped the extension cord joke. Unlike Barger and The Idiot’s Guide, which address anyone who’s interested in starting ISSUE 168 July 2012 to ride, Shifting Gears targets older riders: new or returning, some as young as 40, some as old as 60. It’s a growing, but still undefined market. In his introduction to Shifting Gears, David L. Hough notes that the average age for a rider in the U.S. is 50. AARP, an organization representing the rights and interests of older Americans – you have to be over 50 to join – offers its members special rates on motorcycle insurance. The MSF, always eager to extend its brand and expand its business, started a special course for returning riders in 2011. There are even clubs and organizations for senior riders. Stein cites the Older Bikers Riding Club and the Retreads Motorcycle Club International, Inc. as two such examples. An unrelated Google flushed out Old Coots on Scoots. In short, what Shifting Gears at 50’s author, Philip Buonpastore, has here is a great concept and a virtually untapped niche. It even makes the jacket copy, “Recommended for Riders Ages 40 & Up”, almost forgivable. Since Buonpastore didn’t buy his first motorcycle until he was 40, it might have been a good idea to have diddled the title in that direction. What we have here is a bungled opportunity. Buonpastore tries to do two things in one volume: provide basic instructions for riding specifically tailored to the needs of older people as well as a selection of articles about places he’s visited as an older rider – all reprints of pieces he published in various magazines. Either done right would have made a good book. At least the how-to guide isn’t bad on the usual basics and even has moments of intentional quality. Contributor Walt Fulton suggests that older riders will be more successful riders if they can ride a bicycle and can drive a motorcar with a manual transmission. Sidebars feature the experiences of older or returning riders. Buonpastore himself tackles the critical question as to whether older riders have diminished 153 reaction times. The answer is yes, but no. It may well be that younger riders are using their faster reaction times to overcompensate for their lack of maturity and experience. WWW.THERIDERSDIGEST.CO.UK YOUR AD COULD BE HERE REACH THOUSANDS OF POTENTIAL CUSTOMERS EACH MONTH GREAT RATES FULLY INTERACTIVE LINKS TO YOUR COMPANY WEBSITE & EMAIL CONTACT PETER MARTIN [email protected] 154 WWW.THERIDERSDIGEST.CO.UK Buonpastore goes wrong in the second half of the book. His travel articles that he has selected to reprint here are all fine in and of themselves. The photographs are certainly lovely. What was needed here was one longer piece about his journey to becoming a motorcyclist who took such journeys. It is mentioned in passing, but then it’s off to the next topic. But that would have taken the book from ordinary to extraordinary; that would have fulfilled the promise of the title: and that would have made the book more than just another howto guide. How these three books will read in another 10 or 15 years is anyone’s guess. Certainly ISSUE 168 July 2012 not mine. One of the best ways to make yourself foolish is to try to predict the future. Nevertheless, Let’s Ride has the best shot. It gets four wheelies out of a possible five for solid information and five for character. The fun and flavor of Barger’s personality should read as well in 2022 as it does today. How the more technical sections on the fourstroke will read when we’re all riding solarcycles is unknown. The Idiot’s Guide gets a full five wheelies for information. It’s about as complete and up-to-date as such things can be. That means, of course, that it will date faster. The fake character of the narrative voice – for example, that profligate, if not purpose-built, grandfather – is getting old fast and undermines the credibility of the book somehow for me. I’ll give it three wheelies instead of two since the likelihood of anyone reading more than one edition is rather small. Also, for British readers interested in motorcycling in the States, Let’s Ride would be the better choice; The Idiot’s Guide would have the effect of “too much information”. I’m not sure even I need to know there is a riding club in Santa Cruz for vampires. Shifting Gears is most like to wind up in the book-fora-pound bin in front of the local used and second hand book shop by the end of next year. The first part of the book manages four and three wheelies easily enough, but the second half manages none, halving the total. On the other hand, for the moment it is the only book that does address the issues facing the older rider. All three books are available through Amazon, as are most of the out-of-print volumes. Jonathan Boorstein 155 Bitz Lids For Kids Caberg distributors Feridax released details of their new V-KID helmets just a little too late to make it into the June edition, but they sound like such a good idea we decided we’d make space to tell you all about them this month. The V-KID has been designed specifically for junior riders, which is to say that it isn’t simply an adult helmet available in small sizes. Caberg say that its smaller shell has been specially developed for the younger rider and it comes with all the features and protection you would expect from one of their adult helmets including: Anti-scratch Visor Double Anti-turbulence Shield Removable Inner Liner Quick Release System Internal Air Circulation The V-Kid comes in sizes: XXX Small – Small and has an SRP £74.99 Visit the Feridax web site for further details www.feridax.com 156 WWW.THERIDERSDIGEST.CO.UK ISSUE 168 July 2012 157 Bitz UK Adventure Travel Film Festival 17-20 August 2012 Ever fancied filming your own adventures? Got a video camera but don’t know where to start? Well, how about going to Sherborne Girls School (settle down, gentlemen; all the girls will be on holiday) on 17-20 August for the 2012 Adventure Travel Film Festival hosted by Austin Vince and Lois Pryce. The festival officially starts on the morning of Saturday 18th and ends at lunchtime on Monday 20th August, but campers can turn up on Friday for a relaxed warmup to the main event. The organiser’s mission is to create a new generation of competent amateur filmmakers who, in the fullness of time, will have 158 their work shown at future versions this festival. The workshops were a big hit at the 2011 festival and they’ll be running similar ones again this time, taught by industry professionals. These will be… 1. Camera work- Ten simple rules to raise your game. 2. Cameras Galore – Sooooo many makes, which one to choose? We know, we’ll tell you! 3. Sound – Always overlooked by amateurs, ten more simple Bitz The Jolenes rules to help turn you pro! 4. Directing – Produce documentaries not home movies, it’s simple when you know ‘the code’. 5. Shooting an interview – Three steps to perfectly capturing that local character. 6. Super 8 – Underrated and under used, everything a money shot! 7. Editing – If you can edit, you can direct and shoot. Vital session! 8. Narrative – Taking your film to the next level. Each session is an hourand-a-half and costs £20 per person. All equipment is provided and groups will be no bigger than ten students. For those who would rather watch what other people have filmed there will be an amazing range of films which the organisers have dug up for you this year. WWW.THERIDERSDIGEST.CO.UK They’ve spent the last twelve months unearthing yet more rare gems from the archives and tracking down the best adventure film-making talent in the world today. Not only that, there’s a great programme of inspiring speakers including Tristan Gooley and Alastair Humphreys. Danny Roadkill is also back by popular demand to cook up some tasty, if not flattened, morsels, as is Kev Palmer with his bushcraftery and foraging walks. And, budding field chefs can also enter Nick Smith’s Campfire Cooking Competition! Join The Jolenes for a hoe-down! Appearing for the first time at the festival, and featuring Lois Pryce on the banjo, these gals are guaranteed to get you in the party mood on the Saturday night. With their signature red frocks and an ozone-troubling amount of hairspray, The Jolenes have been busy thrilling audiences (and prison inmates) throughout the UK and Europe with their down-home blend of redhot rockin’ bluegrass and old-time country. The UK Adventure Travel Film Festival takes place at Sherborne Girls School, Bradford Road, Sherborne, Dorset DT9 3QN from Friday 17th August – Monday 20th August 2012. Tickets cost £75 for the full weekend without meals or £111 including halfboard (Breakfast on Sat, Sun & Mon morning and evening meals on Sat and Sun). Children under 12 get in free. More details at: www. adventuretravelfilmfestival. com ISSUE 168 July 2012 159 Join the adventure Fre eC vis ata we it o logu e bs ur ite Touratech travel equipment: Luggage Systems Maximise your travel experience. Seats Lighting We have all the right equipment Screens/Rallye Fairings for you and your machine, whether GPS and Navigation you’re travelling through Tibet or Crash bars Long range fuel tanks touring through Treorchy. Handguards Bash Plates Camping/outdoor kit Touratech are now approved dealers for Husqvarna off-road motorcycles, drop in for a test-ride! o.uk, c . h c e ark ourat iness P s t wwwn.it 14 WoodlandwsanBsuea. SA9 1JW 65 U S 417 ynlais, 639) 8 Ystradg Tel: (01 tech.co.uk ra fo@tou in : il a Em