Yosemite
Transcription
Yosemite
ROUTE 66 Road Trip By Kimber Williams The Quiet Side of YOSEMITE At 8,842 feet high, Half Dome is easily Yosemite National Park’s most distinctive feature, dominating most valley views. Portions of its wide granite face are thought to have fallen away through rockfalls and glacial action. 8 Scenic Route Vol. 3 / No. 1 Yosemite National Park is famous for its summer face. Here, rock climbers scale some of the world’s tallest granite chunks. Hikers explore sun-warmed alpine meadows. Waterfalls tumble the span of a 62-story building, roaring with late spring run-off. But winter offers a different face, a slower pace. Crowds thin dramatically, trails open wide. Wildlife emerges. One day, the valley basks in mild weather. The next, snow frosts famous rock formations and creates a dazzling playground for winter sport. In fact, to experience the silent grandeur of Yosemite in the winter is to visit a side of the park you never knew. Winter is the season of solitude at Yosemite, as crowds clear and the park reawakens Y osemite National Park is known for its breathtaking vistas, powerful waterfalls, magnificent granite rock formations — and suffocating crowds. One of America’s most popular national parks, the high Sierra Nevada destination attracts upward of 3.4 million visitors annually. Yet, a vast majority of those people — over 80 percent — show up between April and September. And if you’ve ever been among those crowds, you know the frustrations — no parking, clogged traffic through Yosemite Valley, and elbowto-elbow congestion at the park’s most popular sites. By contrast, a trip to Yosemite in the winter months is almost shocking. Summer’s crowds fall away to almost nothing. No parking headaches. No waiting for anything. It’s almost as if you have the park to yourself. For RVers, a trip to Yosemite is a treat year-round. But a winter visit definitely has its merits. Securing reservations is much easier — most campgrounds are virtually empty. Temperatures on the valley floor warm nicely through the day. And recreational opportunities open up in fun, new directions. Sure, you can still hike to see favorite attractions. But what about snowshoeing to bask in the glory of ancient Sequoias? Care for a little outdoor ice skating? And low-angle winter light can create some splendid moments for photographers. Winter is when you can really see the wildlife. On our visit, mule deer roamed everywhere, boldly curling up to rest right beside hiking trails. With leaves off the trees, it’s easier to spot coyotes, raccoon and even an occasional bear, plus an abundant array of bird life. Although weather can vary wildly, the park receives most of its heaviest moisture January through March, leaving beloved rock formations dazzling with a fresh, crystalline coating. Then again, you can always get lucky. The first week of January this year, forecasts called for highs in the 50s and lows in the upper 30s and 40s. In early December, we caught up with Dan and Tomi Mason, of Laguna Beach, Calif., enjoying an easy hike to Lower Yosemite falls in their shirtsleeves and relishing the sunny 65-degree day — even though a warm, dry fall had reduced many of the park’s normally raging waterfalls to distant trickles. Fully accessible trails make it easy to take a quiet hike along the trail to Lower Yosemite Falls. Bridalveil Fall takes a dramatic 620-foot plunge toward the floor of Yosemite Valley. This is the third year the Masons have visited Yosemite in the winter, a season that has proved to be a pleasant surprise. “We come here in the winter because we just love the atmosphere,” Tomi said. “You’re not crowded, and it’s not packed, which makes it so much more enjoyable. You greet people on the trails and they seem happy to see you.” Yosemite National Park has much to offer, but America’s oldest national park is known for its spectacular waterfalls. So if viewing or photographing those falls at peak flow is a major goal, winter may not be for you. Water levels tend to run low by year’s end, until snow and rain boost output. To catch peak waterfall action, consider an early spring visit, when even hiking on trails that flank waterfalls can require a good layer of Goretex. 9 Scenic Route Vol. 3 / No. 1 (left to right) Designated as a National Historic Landmark, the famed Ahwahnee Hotel sits nestled among the pines in the heart of Yosemite Valley. The granite face of El Capitan overlooks Yosemite National Park like a grand sentinel. Winter is a great time for exploring Yosemite’s many hiking trails, as normal crowds seem to evaporate. However, there is so much more to see beyond waterfalls in this 1,200-square-mile park — 95 percent of which is officially designated as wilderness. From its deep valley floor sculpted by centuries of water and grinding glacial ice to sweeping alpine summits, from grand meadows to ancient forests and world-famous rock monuments, there is much to relish about a visit to observe the “Quiet Side” to this very busy national park. The heart of the park With its massive, muscular granite formations, Yosemite National Park is a place that simply demands to be noticed. Located in east-central California south of Lake Tahoe and east of the San Francisco Bay area, this granddaddy of all national parks seems to do everything on a large scale. It doesn’t just offer waterfalls; it offers some of the world’s tallest — Yosemite Falls, at 2,425 feet, and Sentinel Falls, 2,000 feet. It doesn’t merely feature big rocks; El Capitan stands 3,593 feet from its base to summit, said to be the world’s largest single monolith of granite. And if the park itself isn’t enough, it’s surrounded by sce10 Scenic Route Vol. 3 / No. 1 nic state and national forest lands, lakes and rivers. To get there requires a little effort; it’s not exactly along the beaten path. The park has two major entrances along its west flank: Big Oak Flat, off California Highway 120 and Arch Rock, off California Highway 140. To the south, enter the park off California Highway 41 near Mariposa Grove. To the east, enter at Tioga Pass off California Highway 120. Most routes into the park are scenic, but can be steep and winding; slow down, drive with care and enjoy the views. Winter weather will affect roads and access. Tioga Road (Highway 120 through the park) to Tuolumne Meadow is generally closed from late November through late May or June, so if you visit during winter, rethink your entrance point. Mariposa Grove Road is usually closed from November or December until April, though visitors may still hike, ski or snowshoe in. Glacier Point Road is typically closed November through late May, however the first five miles are open to Badger Pass ski area. Be advised: Winter weather requires you to carry tire chains, even if you’ll never use them. Don’t get stuck without them, as it can be a condition of entrance to the park. You can rent or purchase chains in nearby communities, but you’ll suffer a price mark-up. Inside the park, they are only available for purchase. Play it smart. Invest in chains, watch the forecasts, and call the park to check on road conditions (209) 372-0200. Entrance to the park costs $20, which is pricey by national park standards. But that fee is good for seven days. Though Yosemite National Park is huge, public roads take you only to select areas. Yosemite Valley is the picturesque seven-mile corridor that plunges from west to east — What You Should Know: CAMPING IN YOSEMITE Bears are a big deal, no joke. About 300 to 500 American black bears live in the park and are known for voracious appetites and their incredible sense of smell. Food — actually anything with a scent, including toothpaste — must be properly stored 24 hours a day. Food may be stored out-of-sight in hard-sided trailers or RVs, as long as windows, doors and vents are closed when you’re not there. Food may not be stored in pop-up tents, tent trailers or other soft-sided campers. Don’t leave food in trucks and tow vehicles. Even canned food and beverages should be removed, as well as crumbs in infant car seats, baby wipes and food wrappers. Rangers recommend using bear boxes and food lockers. Metal food lockers are available in every campsite, most trailhead parking areas and other lodging areas. To conserve energy, most bears hibernate in the winter. But they may awaken and leave their dens in search of food, so yearround precautions are important. If you see a bear in a campground or parking lot, make as much noise as possible, yelling or banging on pots. If you spot a bear in the wild, keep at least 50 to 100 yards away. Dispose of trash in bear-proof dumpsters. Campsites can hold a maximum of six people and two vehicles. Pets are permitted in all campgrounds except Camp 4, Tamarack Flat, Porcupine Flat and all group campsites. However, they should be kept on a leash and not left unattended. Generators may be used sparingly from 7 a.m. to 7 p.m. No reservations or cancellations will be possible from January 24, 2007, through February 7, 2007, as the park is updating its reservations service. The new National Recreation Reservation Service will begin February 15, 2007. You can then make reservations through www.recreation.gov or by calling (877) 444-6777. 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Hensley Mfg. Inc. • (800) 410-6580 • Since 1993 Yosemite time to walk through, or enjoy a beverage in the bar, with views of the hotel’s landscaped grounds. Visitors enjoy the petting farm at Yosemite Pines RV Resort and Family Lodging, located west of Yosemite National Park in Groveland. through the heart of the park. It is here that you’ll find the best maintained roads and some of the park’s most famous attractions, including El Capitan, Half Dome, Cathedral Rock, Sentinel Rock and Yosemite, Bridalveil, Vernal and Nevada Falls. If you are short on time, this is your don’t-miss stop, easily the most visited section of the park. Consider getting your bearings with an in-depth valley orientation. Two-hour bus tours will take you to the most scenic attractions, with plenty of photo-ops. Tours are $17.50 and depart every day at 10 a.m. and 2 p.m. from Curry Village, Yosemite Lodge, Yosemite Village and the elegant Ahwahnee Hotel. Make tour reservations in advance by calling (209) 372-1240. Or just hop aboard the free shuttle bus, which will take you to 21 stops throughout the valley. The 8.7-mile Yosemite Valley bike path can also provide a good overview, weather permitting. The path loops around the eastern end of the valley out to Mirror 12 Scenic Route Vol. 3 / No. 1 Lake. Bike rentals are available at Yosemite Lodge ($5.25 an hour or $20 a day). During high summer season, visitors are advised to arrive in Yosemite Village as early as possible to secure parking. Winter visits don’t pose a problem. Yosemite Valley doesn’t boast a real town, more a congregation of shops, so be sure and gas up before you hit the park. There are no gas pumps in the valley itself, only at Crane Flat and Wawona. You will find a decent collection of stores, restaurants and services — including a post office, general store, emergency medical and dental care — in Yosemite Village, which lies at the eastern end of the valley roadway. The valley is also a trailhead to some great hiking routes, from easy to difficult. Here, you’ll find a place to stock up on provisions, buy a hot cup of coffee and a sandwich, or sit down to a fancy dinner at the Ahwahnee Hotel, an architectural gem in itself that you should make Winter camping Yosemite National Park hosts 13 campgrounds, nine of which accept RVs. Some can accommodate RVs with a maximum length of 40 feet; a few sites can hold trailers up to 35 feet. Daily fees run about $20 a site. Though you won’t find hookups in Yosemite campgrounds, you can run generators (sparingly) from 7 a.m. to 7 p.m. Dump stations are available in Yosemite Valley, Wawona and Tuolumne Meadows campgrounds. Showers and other facilities are offered in the Valley. Though winter reduces the number of available campgrounds within the park, a handful remain open to RVs year-round, including Upper Pines (in Yosemite Valley), Wawona and Hodgdon Meadow. Camping isn’t permitted outside of registered campsites. Reservations are required for Yosemite Valley’s car campgrounds and may be made up to five months in advance through the National Recreation Reservation Service (as of February 15, 2007) by calling (877) 444-6777 or by going to www.recreation.gov. Nearly all reservations during summer months are filled the first day they become available, and often within a few hours. Winter Don’t Forget: • Good hiking shoes • Pretend you’re Ansel Adams; bring your favorite camera • Layers of warm clothes and Goretex; weather changes quickly • Gloves or mittens for chilly mornings • You’re required to carry tire chains • Gas up before you enter the park Learn about the cultural history of the Miwok and Paiute people at the Indian Cultural Exhibit in the Yosemite Museum. 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High winds, tire blow outs, TruCenter keeps you centered. ™ ® ® SwayPro SwayPro Weight Distributing Hitch with built in sway control ™ ng Hitch with built in sway control The most user friendly hitch on the market. er friendly hitch on the market. Multi-purpose Lifts • MotorcyclesLifts • Golf Carts • ATV’s • And more Multi-purpose needs a ride.” • Motorcycles • Golf Carts “When • ATV’s your • Andride more “When your ride needs a ride.” 040105 Call 1-800-336-4336 and askand for Bryce or visit Call 1-800-336-4336 www.blueox.us for more info. ask for Bryce or visit The quest for parking in Yosemite Valley is made easier during a winter visit, when even larger motorhomes can usually find space. reservations are much easier to secure — another bonus. If you’re smart, you’ll buy supplies before you hit the park. In a pinch, you can also pick up what you need at the Wawona Grocery Store (at the south entrance) and the Yosemite Village Store, where you can park free for 30 minutes. Both are open all year. One park ranger told us that winter is a time of solitude at Yosemite, jokingly calling it “the season for newlyweds and nearly-deads.” But if solitude and serenity are what you’re after, it’s hard to beat. However, if dry camping in the park isn’t your cup of tea, you’ll find some great alternatives at a variety of private campgrounds outside the park in almost any direction. The strategy of setting up an outside base camp and journeying into the park for visits has its advantages and disadvantages. The private campgrounds we saw were uniformly attractive, tidy and had 1 Scenic Route Vol. 3 / No. 1 good amenities, from full hookups to swimming pools, miniature golf, and even a petting zoo. Most were within a 30- to 40minute drive of the park, an easy trek with a tow car or truck. If you’re hauling much more than that, the curvy, steep roads into Yosemite might be a headache to tackle every day. One of our top picks was Yosemite Pines RV Resort and Family Lodging, located about 22 miles west of the big Oak Flat entrance to the park off California Highway 120 outside of Groveland. The campground provides 200 sites (back-in or pull-through/full or partial hookups), with water, 20/30/50-amp electric, sewer, bathrooms/showers, a camp store, and oodles of activities for kids, from playgrounds to gold panning, and a petting farm. Off-season, campsites run about $17 a night on weekdays, $20 on Friday and Saturday. “People who’ve stayed in Yosemite tell us they wind up coming back here,” said Jessie, a campground manager. “The weather is generally good, so we can do pretty much anything all year. Plus, it’s only a mile into town for shopping and restaurants.” Indian Flat RV Park will put you close to the park. This smaller campground is located off California Highway 140 at El Portal near Yosemite’s Arch Rock Entrance. Indian Flat offers 25 RV sites with water, electric and some sewer. Off-season rates run about $30 a night for full hookups, $25 for water and electric. No generators are allowed. If entering Yosemite from the south, check out the High Sierra RV and Mobile Park, located about 20 miles south of the park on California Highway 41, north of Oakhurst. Rates range from about $24 to $30 a night during the week, depending on the level of services you choose, a bit more on weekends. The campground can even accommodate “land yachts,” with full hookups, including 20/30-amp ROUTE 66 Regional ROUTE 66 RV Network® Dealers All Seasons RV 3300 Colusa Hwy. Yuba City, CA 95993 (530) 671-9070 Pan Pacific RV Centers 252 W. Yettner Rd. French Camp, CA 95231 (209) 234-2000 Pan Pacific RV Centers 2020 Taylor Rd. Roseville, CA 95678 (916) 782-3178 Pan Pacific RV Centers 1104 El Camino Ave. Sacramento, CA 95815 (916) 927-1853 Sierra RV Sales & Rentals 9125 S. Virginia St. Reno, NV 89511 (775) 324-0522 electric, water and sewer. Cable TV and phone hookups are available at all campsites. Also, don’t overlook the KOAMariposa RV Park, off Highway 140 about 5.5 miles east of Mariposa. You’ll find standard KOA facilities, hiking trails, a chance to pan for gold, and — best of all — shuttle bus service into Yosemite. Land of natural wonders Up until about 250,000 years ago, glaciers filled Yosemite Valley, gradually chiseling land and granite into its classic shape, and leaving spectacular rock formations and towering cliffs for today’s waterfalls to dazzle us. Only 15,000 years ago, the Valley floor was a broad lake. Yosemite Sediment filled in to create the flat valley floor of today. Water and gravity continue to shape the landscape here, with dramatic rock slides, seasonal flooding and highcountry avalanches. All the geologic activity left the landmarks we now enjoy, so make the most of your time at the park with this sightseeing checklist: Bridalveil Fall: The Ahwahneechee Indians dubbed it “Pohono,” or “Spirit of the Puffing Wind.” Today, you can still observe winds sending this lacy ribbon of water swaying against canyon walls, as it plunges 620 feet to the valley floor. A short hike from a parking lot on a paved trail gives a great view. Yosemite Falls: This famous landmark is actually a series of three connected waterfalls: the upper falls, the lower falls and a middle series of intermediate drops. Together, they cascade 2,425 feet down granite cliffs, making this the tallest waterfall in North America and the sixth largest in the world. It’s also one of the park’s most easily accessible sites, with a new trail system that takes you on an easy walk to a great viewpoint of the lower falls. Tougher hiking trails lead to the upper falls. El Capitan: Easily recognized, this smooth, granite monolith towers 3,593 vertical feet above the Yosemite Valley floor, a favorite with rock climbers spring through fall — now considered a global standard for big-wall climbers. It is thought to be the largest single Introducing Gold, Platinum and Platinum Plus Memberships NEW CONCIERGE AND TRAVEL BENEFITS! We’re raising the bar again to give road service a whole new meaning. We’ll help you find campsites, historical sites, restaurants, RV storage facilities, golf courses and tee times. We’ll even give you turn-by-turn directions to the lowest priced gas station...and more! Whether you’re in your RV or car, consider Coach-Net your own personal assistant, guiding you to the best places in your travels. “ . . . Every peak and dome, every niche and tablet had their share of snow. And blessed are the eyes that beheld morning open the glory of that one dead storm . . . the glorious sediment of crystal was everywhere . . . from meadow to sky was one finished unit of beauty, one star of equal ray, one glowing sun, weighed in the celestial balances and found perfect . . . ” — John Muir (1838-1914) Famed naturalist, Yosemite in Winter Carved by centuries of ice and water, Yosemite Valley cuts through scenic mountains, distinctive rock formations and alpine forests. Select from Gold, Platinum and Platinum Plus memberships, each including technical support from our Master Certified Technicians and comprehensive 24/7 emergency roadside assistance. • Gold offers a long list of concierge services for use both on, and off, the road. • Platinum expands Gold services with air, hotel, and baggage travel assistance. • Platinum Plus maximizes Gold and Platinum benefits with worldwide travel assistance and medical assistance. Call us today or visit our Web site to learn more, and begin enjoying conveniences designed just for you. 1.877.801.0333 www.coach-net.com 1 Scenic Route Vol.1 / No. 5 Yosemite Where to Stay: • KOA-Yosemite/Mariposa RV Park, 6323 Hwy. 140, Midpines, (800) KOA-9391 or (209) 966-2201 • Pine Mountain Lake Campground, Ferretti Rd., Groveland, (209) 962-8625 • High Sierra RV & Mobile Park, 40389 Hwy. 41, Oakhurst, (877) 314-7662 • Indian Flat RV Park, 9988 Hwy. 140, El Portal, (209) 379-2339 • Yosemite Pines RV Resort & Family Lodging, 20450 Old Hwy. 120, Groveland, (877) 962-5042 • Yosemite Lakes Campground, 31383 Hwy. 120, Groveland, (209) 962-0121 • Yosemite National Park campgrounds, (800) 436-7275. Good Eats, Great Sites: • Park your rig and take the shuttle bus to view popular destinations throughout Yosemite Valley — it’s free! • Try breakfast or lunch at the magnificent Ahwahnee Hotel Dining Room; dress is more casual and prices more affordable vs. dinner. • Catch a free showing of the inspirational film, “Spirit of Yosemite,” in the Valley Visitor Center Theater and linger to visit the nearby Yosemite Museum. • Sign up for an adventure —Yosemite Mountaineering School offers classes, courses and guided adventures in rock climbing, hiking, backpacking and cross-country skiing. Call (209) 372-8344 (winter) or (209) 372-8435 (summer). • Let the kids burn off steam exploring the Indian Village of the Ahwahnee and Indian Cultural Exhibit, located at the Yosemite Museum in the Valley. • Hit the slopes! Ski, snowboard, snowtube or snowshoe at Yosemite’s Badger Pass. You can catch a shuttle bus in the Valley. • Ice skate at Curry Village from November through March, on a large outdoor rink — weather permitting. Rental skates are available. • Take an easy hike to see the base of Yosemite Falls; the path is paved and completely accessible to strollers and wheelchairs. • Drop by the Ansel Adams gallery, in Yosemite Village, to pick up film, rent a camera, get help with some photographic troubleshooting or just view some stunning Ansel Adams photographs. • Ski, snowshoe or hike the two-mile access road to the Mariposa Grove of giant Sequoias, near the park’s south entrance. • Grab groceries, a fast lunch, a pair of gloves, or postcards at the Yosemite Village Store. • The 13-mile Valley Floor Loop Trail is actually an old bridle path, but a hidden treasure. Pick up the trail behind Yosemite Lodge or Camp 4 and head west. • Enjoy an impressive view of Yosemite Falls from the dining room at Yosemite Lodge’s Mountain Room Restaurant, where you’ll want to try the chef’s specialty: smoked trout cakes. • Take the short hike to view Bridalveil Fall, which drops the height of a 62-story building. • As you leave Yosemite Valley to the west, pull over at Valley View turnout and pull out the camera to capture a famous view of El Capitan and Bridalveil Fall. granite monolith in the world. Half Dome: If Yosemite National Park has an icon, it would surely be this famed monument. Located at the eastern end of Yosemite Valley, Half Dome soars to an elevation of 8,842 feet and, oddly, constitutes some of the youngest Plutonic rock in the valley. It is a popular, though rigorous, climb for summer hikers, and can 16 Scenic Route Vol. 3 / No. 1 be seen from nearly anywhere in Yosemite Valley. Vernal Falls Trail: One of the shortest trails in the park, it’s usually clogged with hikers during summer months. From Curry Village, it’s only a 1.3-mile hike to the Vernal Falls Bridge, an excellent viewpoint. Ambitious hikers can continue to the top of the falls, a 2.4-mile trek, or on (left to right) Campers at Yosemite Pines RV Park, located just outside Yosemite National Park. In winter, Yosemite is a collection of microclimates, from an icy, shaded creek to sunny, dry meadows. Open mid-December through March, Badger Pass is a popular destination for winter sports enthusiasts. to Emerald Pool, a 2.6-mile trip. When water flow is high, expect to get drenched with mist and watch for slippery footing on the rock stairs. Weather permitting, you can continue to the top of Nevada Falls, a 5.5-mile trip. Mariposa Grove: If you can get there, don’t miss Yosemite’s largest stand of giant Sequoias, among three grand groves that thrive within the park. In the winter, this stand of about 500 trees is most accessible. Weather permitting, hike, ski or snowshoe up the two-mile access road to meet the Grizzly Giant, thought to be the fifth-largest tree in the world. At 100 feet around at its base and 209 feet tall, it’s estimated to be about 2,700 years old. Badger Pass Ski Area: Located on Glacier Point Road, this facility was the first ski resort to open in the west, originally built to attract the 1932 Winter Olympics. When snows fall, this is a great place to sign up for ski or snowboarding lessons, as 85% of the slopes are devoted to beginning or intermediate levels. The season generally runs from mid-December to lateMarch or early-April. Visitors will find downhill and cross-country skiing, snowtubing, snowboarding, and snowshoeing, with rental equipment available. The Ahwahnee Hotel: It’s hardly a natural attraction, but this grand hotel, built in 1927, is a national historic landmark and not to be missed. Free history tours are available, but feel free to wander the grounds on your own. Native American Miwok designs and patterns have been used to decorate this classic American resort hotel, noted for its great granite facade, walk-in fireplace, and immense, cavern-like dining room, where jackets are required for dinner and entrees can run about $25 and up. (For more information about Yosemite National Park, check www. nps.gov/yose or www.yosemitepark.com. Check weather conditions and live webcams at www.yosemite.org.) Photo courtesy of the National Parks Service. ALWAYS ASK FOR MOR. MOR/ryde Pin Box ® Provides more “travel” resulting in a smoother, nearly jerk-free towing experience. MOR/ryde RE System ® MORE RVS FEATURE MOR/RYDE® THAN ANY OTHER TOW-SYSTEM ON THE ROAD… BECAUSE PEOPLE DEMAND PERFORMANCE. But don’t just take our word for it. 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