HLCC Lure Operator Handbook For 2014

HLCC Lure Operator Handbook
For 2014 -2015
17. HLCC Approved Course Plans
Revised May 1, 2014
For The Lure Operator, Field Master, Field
Master Assistant and Support Assistants
“Our dogs are our best friends, but they are
also athletes and just like any race,
marathon, track or other sporting event a
human might engage in, we are obligated
to provide them with the best tools and the
safest environment for them to run,
exercise and display their skills and agility,
and most of all to have fun.”
HLCC Handbook Contents:
1. Equipment: Lure Machine, Lure, String and
Battery
2. Lure Course Set-Up: Pulleys, Pulley
Removal, Battery Installation and Fencing
3. Setting Up Finish Zone Field Pulleys
4. Setting Up Starting Cones
5. Setting Up Finish Zone Field Pulley Cones
6. Setting Up Gallery/Spectator Safety Cones
7. Operating the Lure Machine: Jogging and
Pulsing
8. Running Fast Dogs: Greyhounds and
Whippets
9. Lure Operator Duties
10. Weather Conditions
11. Lure Operator Authority
12. The Finish Zone
13. Lure Coursing Terms
14. HLCC Lure Coursing Staff
15. Glossary of Lure Coursing Terms
16. Coursing Day Set-Up Information
Above: The Injoy lure machine, utility
cart, hand truck, cones, pulleys, extension
cords, battery and battery board, lures,
water bowls, fencing and fence posts, tools,
field first aid kit, coursing blankets, slip
leads, muzzles, VETWRAP and everything
else.
1. Equipment: The Hawaii Lure Coursing
Club exclusively uses the Injoy Lure
Coursing Machine.
Our Injoy Lure Coursing Machine uses
the standard take up wheel: A 12 inch
diameter wheel with a solid 4 inch diameter
core that will hold approximately 1200 yards
of line.
The Injoy wheel is constructed of high
density plastic that can be used for lure
coursing or drag lure coursing set-ups, and
uses a Sears Deep Cycle Marine Battery
for power.
The Injoy Lure Coursing Machine is
capable of driving the lures at high speed —
up to 40 miles an hour — in order to
accommodate the fastest dogs, and also
allow the lure to remain safely ahead of the
dogs during the run.
The Lure: The lure is either a plastic bag
(large white trash bag) or animal skin
(skunk, raccoon, fox or rabbit) used to
simulate running game - rabbit, fox, hare or
other small animal, and is attached to a
string and the lure coursing machine.
We have had very good luck using either a
skunk or raccoon as a lure. The speed of
the lure is controlled by the Lure Operator
with a switch that is wired to the lure
machine via an extension (25 or 50 foot)
cord.
HLCC use lures of real animal skin and has
specially designed 4 inch Injoy pulleys for
use with the animal skins. At times, we also
use a lure of both animal skin and plastic
with dogs on the field: placing a plastic bag
and an animal skin immediately behind the
bag.
Originally, the use of three lures was
adopted to prevent the tangle at the finish
with three un-muzzled dogs diving at the
same moment for the same prize. However,
if you watch the dogs at the finish, it quickly
becomes clear that no matter how many
lures, the dogs all tend to go for the same
one anyway.
Therefore, we recommend the use of one
lure, which also minimizes the chance of a
"take" occurring, as it limits the opportunity
for a dog that might be for whatever
reason, too close to the lure to go for a
take.
We will run 3 Whippets at a time, but limit
the Greyhounds to 2 at a time and typically
run one dog at a time due to the availability
of compatible dogs and course limitations.
The use of a white plastic bag in lure
coursing came about because the standard
lures were getting hung up in pulleys which
at the time were evolving, and the weight
issue on the machines on a wet field
relative to cloth or skin lures also dictated
an adaption.
The String: This line has less stretch than
nylon and is #24 braided polyester string
(commonly referred to as DACRON which in
fact is the trade name of DuPont’s polyester
fiber). The reduced stretch gives you almost
instant lure response on long take up or
drag style courses. It comes in 400 yard
spools.
String Maintenance: Periodically, the
string will get stretched and will need to be
tightened. You must use leather gloves to
do this. The line can cut right through light
gloves and severely cut you.
Run the string out as far on the course as
you can. Make sure it is farther that the
actual course length.
When you have dogs waiting to run and
people waiting to course their dogs, now is
not the time to panic.
The string maybe wrapped around the
starter motor shaft or somewhere else.
Whatever the cause, the string is broke,
and you need to fix it fast. Locate the two
ends of the string and get ready to tie a
knot. The knot recommended is the socalled “Fisherman’s Knot.”
It is best to do this when no one is around.
However, if you have to perform this task
during the coursing event, announce to
everyone that you are going to tighten the
string and for them to get a tight hold on
their dog’s leash.
This knot is recommended because it’s easy
to learn and tie. Lay both ends of the
strings (lines) parallel, tying an identical
overhand knot with each working end to
enclose the adjacent standing part - then
tighten the knots until they are embedded
together as shown.
The sound of the lure motor, the moving
line and the attached lure will excite the
dogs and you don’t want them attempting
to chase the lure while you are doing this.
It may look complicated, but it’s not. It’s
just tying one end of the string (line) to the
other using a simple overhand knot.
With your gloves on - in one hand jog the
switch and maintain an even medium slow
speed while the line comes in - working the
line back and forth on the wheel with the
other hand so it winds around the wheel
evenly. Take it SLOW AND EASY,
beginning, because letting
up the line at full RPM
biggest mess and tangle
seen.
especially in the
the motor take
will create the
you have ever
Stop it before it gets about 30 feet in front
of the lure machine. Hand wind the line
back into the wheel if this is done at the
end of the day. Otherwise, leave it there as
it will be taken out to the start soon.
When The String Breaks:
Yes, it will happen, and when it does its
best to be prepared and ready to fix it
immediately in the field.
Battery Maintenance: The battery should
be fully charged prior to each lure coursing
event,
and
re-charge
the
battery
immediately after lure coursing. And, give it
a touch up charge the day of the event.
Battery Charging Information:
Each pulley has 3 holes for the spikes.
Most 12 volt batteries will read 13 plus volts
when fully charged. Charge the battery on
the deep cycle setting at 10 amps.
Note: If the battery is not fully
charged you can have big problems.
Never let the battery get below 11 volts
while in use. There can be severe
consequences for the battery and the
solenoid on the lure machine. It can weld
shut or lock up.
Step Two: Now, from where you just
placed your first pulley, move forward
toward the lure machine 3 1/2 feet and 10
inches from the line and place your second
pulley.
Again, position the pulley and hammer
down one 9 inch spike into the center hole
on the base of the pulley.
2. Set-Up: Lure Machine and Pulleys
Step One: Locate a smooth flat surface on
the grass free of small rocks and dampness.
Position the machine so it is straight on the
field. Use 8 each, 9 inch steel spikes and
hammer down flush to the plastic base all 8
spikes into the ground.
Note: Check that the lure machine is
secure in the ground, and if not, relocate to
a more suitable location on the field.
Next, pull the string out straight from the
machine and put your first Tension Pulley
approximately 7 feet from the machine.
Position the pulley and hammer down one
the 9 inch spike into the center hole on the
base of the hinged pulley: this is so you can
reposition it later after all the pulleys are in
place.
Step Three: Go back to the first tension
pulley and directly to the right of it, and 3
feet apart place your third pulley.
Position the pulley and hammer down one 9
inch spike into the center hole on the base
of the pulley.
Step Four: Now, from the tension pulley
you just set into place go out 4 feet toward
the lure machine and adjust the line so it is
4 feet from pulley 3 to pulley 2. You may
need to rearrange pulley 2 so it is 3 /12 feet
from pulley 1 and 4 feet from pulley 3.
Step Five: Finally trace the 3 tension
pulleys with the line and position the pulley
such that they evenly divide the angle of
the string, and hammer the remaining
spikes into each of the pulleys.
Step Six: Place the Hold-Down Pulley 2
feet from the machine directly in front of
the take-up wheel. Secure the hold down
pulley with 4 each 9 inch spikes.
CAUTION: using the pulley top or stainless
steel center section as a handle to remove
the spikes from the ground can bend the
axle and render the pulley inoperable.
Battery Installation: Place the battery
board on the side of the lure machine with
the starter motor and connect one of the
battery cables to the correct polarity
(positive to positive and negative to
negative) on the battery.
Note: Do not connect the other cable until
you have completed the entire set-up of the
course.
This will prevent any possible problems with
the lure machine starting up and injuring
someone while you are setting up the
course.
Fencing: After everything has been set-up
and inspected, place the fencing around the
lure machine and all 5 pulleys.
Tension Pulley Set-Up Diagram
Pulley Removal: The process for
removing a pulley and the spikes from the
ground is as follows:
Grasp the pulley base and pull straight up
until all spikes have been removed from the
ground.
This usually works in most normal soil
conditions, however if the spikes just won't
budge, you can use a pair of pliers to
remove each spike individually.
We have six steel fencing posts that are
positioned around the perimeter of the
machine and the pulleys.
For the safety of the dogs, people and
spectators, we use orange plastic fencing,
approximately 5 feet high, to keep people
and dogs from entering the lure
machine/pulley area.
The posts are hammered in to the ground
after positioning with a steel mallet.
These pulleys not only help increase the
speed of the lure by allowing the lure to run
smoother, but they also provide added
safety for the dogs as the lure passes
through the field pulleys.
Additionally, the four corner cones were
also less likely to fly up in the air as they
frequently did when using the animal skins
with the shorter pulleys. Straight Drag Lure Course Plan
3. Set-Up: Finish Zone Field Pulleys:
After all 4 of the pulleys for the lure
machine are set in place you will need to
set-up the 2 Finish Zone Field Pulleys.
Take the line straight out from the last
pulley as far as you need to go and lay a
finish zone field pulley.
Position the pulley and hammer down one 9
inch spike into the center hole on the base
of the hinged pulley and adjust so that it
will evenly divide the angle of the string.
Hammer the remaining spikes into the
hinged base of the pulley.
Now, where you just placed your last finish
zone field pulley make a straight line
directly towards the fence facing the marsh:
it should be approximately 50 feet and
locate the next pulley.
Position the pulley and hammer down one 9
inch spike into the center hole on the base
of the hinged pulley and adjust so that it
will evenly divide the angle of the string.
Hammer the remaining spikes into the
hinged base of the pulley.
A Correct
B Incorrect
Pull the line out and down the field from the
last finish zone field pulley and attach the
lure to the line.
Above: A close up view of the 4 inch Injoy
pulley specially designed for use with animal
skins.
4. Set-Up: Starting Cones:
We hand slip our dogs, so the lure should
be placed 20 feet in front of the dogs with
little or no slack and so marked by Yellow
Lure Cones.
5. Set-Up: Field Pulley Cones:
There are 2 field pulleys in our course. Each
of the 2 field pulleys has a set of 4 large
Orange safety cones positioned around it.
The dogs will be held behind the Green
(starting line) Start Cones side by side.
Handlers may restrain the dogs in any
fashion as long as it does not interfere with
the start of another dog.
In addition to the “Field Pulley Cones”
there are smaller “Field Line Support
Cones” that are positioned about 3 feet
apart in front of the line that runs from one
field pulley to the other.
There are also small field line support cones
that run from the finish zone field pulley up
the line towards the lure machine.
6. Set- Up: Gallery/Spectator Cones
For the safety of our coursing dogs, dogs
awaiting their turn to course, participants
and spectators there are cones to warn
people to keep back.
No dog, spectator or participant is allowed
beyond the cones when a dog is running.
Note: We recommend handlers use
slip leads to release their dogs.
There are 2 each Yellow Lure Cones and
2 each Green Start Cones that are set up
approximately 20 apart and 20 feet in front
of each other.
The distance from the Green Start Cones
to the first Finish Zone Pulley is
approximately 550 feet or approximately
183 yards.
Approximately 10 small orange field line
support cones are used to keep the dogs
waiting
to
course,
their
handlers,
participants and spectators from venturing
into the coursing field. They are placed
approximately 8 -10 feet apart down the
field.
To slow the machine down, press the
button just as quickly but less frequently.
There may be times when you may need to
press and hold the button down for one to
three seconds.
However, “Pressing and holding the button
down for more than five seconds at a time
is not recommended.
7. Operating The Injoy Lure Machine:
Operating a lure machine is not an easy
task by any means, and it varies from week
to week and from dog to dog. It takes skill,
knowledge, experience and instinct as well
as practice to run the lure machine. With
practice you can and will get good at it, but
it does take time.
Running the motor continuously for more
than five seconds at a time causes
excessive wear on the motor brushes,
causes rapid heat buildup in the motor
and most importantly, runs down the
battery more quickly than the short varied
pulse method of operation.”
Lure Machine Operation
Basic Operation: To make it run, you hold
the button on the switch down to make the
lure go and release the button to stop or
slow down the lure.
What makes a good lure coursing dog: “a
dog that knows it’s “just a game,” but is
willing to play anyway because it's fun.
Tip: The process of “jogging the switch” is
the normal way a lure course is run.
Some dogs just don't ever get that sense of
fun, and some seem lose it after a few
runs.” But, the ones that get it never lose
that sense of fun.
“A great lure operator knows the “feel” of
the lure operation.”
“Run the dog don’t let the dog run you.”
The best method of pulsing or jogging
the button on the switch is to push
and release the button quickly.
To run the lure fast, press and release the
button quickly and frequently.
A lure operator must be able to overcome
distractions and concentrate on what they
are doing. They must also be able to index
the course distance, which is why it’s a
good idea for them to take the lure around
the course without a dog a few times before
actually running the dogs.
Lure Operators must be able to adjust to
the visual space and feel what is at stake,
i.e., the safety of the dogs.
If the lure gets too far in front of the
runners, they may lose interest and slow
down or quit entirely.
An experienced hunting dog will always try
to catch its prey by choosing the shortest
and most efficient way.
Each coursing dog is different in its speed,
agility, endurance, enthusiasm and ability to
follow the lure. Some dogs prefer the lure
right in front of them; some dog’s need it
further away and moving fast. Run the lure
at a speed that allows the dog to keep its
head up while running.
It’s the slowing and speeding up of the lure,
learning to watch the different dogs as they
run, learning to tell when the dog in front is
not the lead dog, when a cheater should
not be rewarded with the lure - that is what
a lure operator needs to learn.
The successful attempt to get the prey in an
easy and efficient way is a sign of the dog’s
ability to learn and shouldn’t be thought of
as laziness on the part of the dog.
A lure coursing dog will attempt to catch his
prey by running on the side and slightly
behind the lure, and when it begins to slow
down he will lower his head and try to catch
the lure with his mouth.
After the lure has stopped, he will try to
hold the lure both with his mouth and with
his feet. If two dogs are attempting to catch
the prey (lure) one will usually defend his
prey (lure) against his competitor in the
manner shown below:
If the dogs head is angled down low and
appears to be pouncing while running then
lure is too close.
Whenever a dog gets close enough to the
lure to try to pick it up, that dog is going to
be handicapped in his performance on the
course.
Due to the varying talents of the lure
operator and the dogs, and occasionally due
to an underpowered lure machine, takes
and “miss-takes” are common, but they can
be avoided.
Keep the lure ahead of the dog by 10-30
feet, depending on the dog.
The biggest single factor in good lure
operation is being able to maintain
enough lead.
8. Coursing Fast Dogs:
For example, Greyhounds and Whippets are
very fast off the line. You must get the lure
out and running fast. But, you must also
slow the lure down into the finish zone so
they can stop safely.
Remember, Greyhounds can’t turn on a
dime and they need enough space to slow
down. When they attempt to put on the
brakes too quickly, toes and toe nails can
get broken if they don’t have enough time
to stop.
The distance from the Green Start Cones
to the first Finish Zone Pulley is
approximately 550 feet or approximately
183 yards. Our course is a straight drag lure
line course, with a 50 foot catch area.
However, these figures vary depending on
the course configuration.
When a Greyhound has to stop fast, the
dog’s front legs, from paw to stop pad are
flat on the ground. We have seen
Greyhounds who were not wrapped injuring
their stop pads or receiving a cut on the top
of the toe.
Note: On our course, Whippets and Salukis
will run from 30 to 32 mph and Greyhounds
36 mph and higher. Irish Wolfhounds have
ran from 29 to 33 mph. The average course
speed is approximately 30 mph.
Greyhounds should only be run by an
experienced Lure Operator.
Note: Always let the dogs catch the lure as
it’s their prize. However, at the finish, our
Field Assistants and Catchers should
attempt a quick retrieval of the lure, not
allowing the dogs to destroy the lure or get
tangled in the line.
We want them to leave wanting more.
9. Lure Operator Duties:
a. Lays out the course with the help of
assistants.
b. Makes at least one test run of the lure
before the first course of the day.
c. Stops the lure 50 feet before the lure
machine, if possible.
d. Attempts to keep the lure 10 to 30 feet in
front of the dog at all times after the course
begins.
e. Operate the lure in a smooth, uniform and
consistent manner. This process involves
adjustments in speed to maintain a safe
distance ahead of the runners while
allowing the dog’s constant visual contact.
10. Inclement Weather: Rain
Remember, if the lure coursing field is less
than great, a good Lure Operator can
improve how the dogs will perform on it.
The best Lure Operators are the ones that
make the dogs look their best.
Furthermore, the Lure Operator and Field
Master Assistants reserve the right to stop
or limit any dog’s participation due to age,
body condition, lameness, physiological
limitations,
temperament,
weather
conditions or any other factor that could
affect the safety of the dog, other
participating dogs, or spectators either dog
or human.
The Lure Operator must always be on the
alert for unauthorized persons, hounds, or
objects coming onto the field and with
which a dog could collide.
Of particular concern are dogs that are not
properly controlled or secured when they
are not running.
The course is considered finished only
when the lure comes to a complete
stop.
Please be aware that heavy overnight dew,
or rain on the day also make the lure slow.
The line gets wet from the grass and starts
slipping on the pulleys, plus the drag of the
lure on the wet grass, all contribute to
slowing down the speed of the lure.
Note: When using animal skins the drag on
the lure can be considerable if the ground is
wet or it has just rained. You might want to
consider using white plastic bags in this
situation.
11. Lure Operator Authority:
During the running of the course, the Lure
Operator has the authority to stop the lure
if a hazard develops or when a loose dog or
other object enters the coursing field.
The Lure Operator may also stop the lure at
any time and for any safety reason as the
lure operator deems appropriate.
It is the Lure Operator's responsibility to
stop the lure safely away from the lure
machine.
When the lure has stopped the Lure
Operator will shout, "Retrieve your
hound(s)" to the handlers, and until this
verbal command is given, no handler may
retrieve a dog or enter the finish zone with
a dog. This is to prevent possible injury to
the running dog or dogs, or another non
running dog or human.
12. The Finish Zone:
At times the Lure Operator or the Field
Master may need to step on the line as the
lure heads toward the lure machine in order
to insure that the lure does not accidentally
run into the area of the pulleys.
It depends on the dog you are running,
their speed, agility and ability to follow, but
the best place to stop the lure is either just
after the first pulley (between the first and
second pulley) or after it has made its way
around the second pulley, but no more than
50 feet in front of the protective orange
fencing.
Finish Zone Safety:
Handlers and other coursers are not allowed
in the Finish Zone until the lure has stopped.
No slipper, handler or catcher may retrieve
a dog or enter the Finish Zone with a dog
until the lure has completely stopped. Only
the Field Master Assistants, Lure operator
and Photographer are allowed in the Finish
Zone.
If there are special circumstances, the Lure
Operator or Field Master Assistant(s) can
ask a handler or catcher to stand in a
particular location, but only far enough
away from the safety cones/pulleys and the
lure line as it is safe to do so.
Handlers and other coursers are not allowed
in the Finish Zone until the lure has
completely stopped. This is to prevent the
possibility of injury to the running dog(s) a
non running dog or human.
Too many people in the Finish Zone can
create unnecessary confusion, making it
difficult for Field Assistant(s) to stop the
dog safely and remove the lure and
increase the likelihood of injury to the
coursing dog and or human.
Furthermore, handlers and observers shall
stay out of the path of the running dogs as
they come in on the lure to avoid a collision
which could result in injury to both hound
and human.
Once the dog or dogs are safely retrieved
by their handlers and have moved away
from the lure and the string and are off the
course and the next runner or runners are
at the start, the Lure Operator will turn
towards the gallery of spectators and dogs
waiting to course for a quick check before
shouting,
"Hold Your Hounds" prior to signaling
he is ready to the next runner or set of
runners at the start.
The Lure Operator and or the Field Master
and the Assistant Field Masters will inspect
the lure and lure coursing machine for
damage after each run and retrieve any
pieces of the lure anywhere on the field
which potentially could distract a running
dog during a subsequent course.
13. Lure Coursing Set-Up Terms:
1. Hold-Down Pulley: Used to hold the line
down so the line winds evenly onto the
take up wheel during coursing.
2. Tension Pulley: The 4 pulleys that adjust
the tension on the line from the lure
coursing machine.
3. Finish Zone Field Pulley: There are two
of these: one at the end of the run and
another at 90 degrees to return the line
to the lure coursing machine.
4. Finish Zone Field Pulley Cones: 4 large
orange cones that surround the finish
zone field pulley.
5. Field Line Support Cones: Small orange
cones used to prevent the dogs from
coming in contact with the moving
coursing line.
6. Yellow Lure Cones: 2 cones used to
designate where the lure is to be
placed.
7. Green Start Cones: 2 cones used to
designate the start line.
8. Finish Zone: The area where the dogs
finish their run and catch the lure.
14. HLCC Lure Coursing Staff
Field Clerk: Assigns the running order of
the dogs and fills out the running board.
The running order is based upon the arrival
of the handler and the dog for coursing.
Hunt Master/Lure Operator: Sets up
and tears down the course with assistance
from the Field Master and Field Master
Assistants. Starts the coursers (runners)
and operates the lure machine.
Slipper/Handler: Person who helps out
with starting/slipping dogs as required or
needed.
Photographer:
coursing event.
Photographs
the
lure
Paddock Master: Helps the coursers get
ready to start, instructs handlers (dog
owners-coursers) on slipping procedures
and the use of the slip lead. Assists and
instructs new members or other members
as
requested
or
required
with
starting/slipping their dog.
Field Master: Catches and retrieves the
runners at the finish line, assists in
separating the dogs and the lure from the
dogs after their run, re- strings the pulleys,
readies the lure and prepares the lure for
the next runner.
Field Master Assistant: Catches and
retrieves the runners at the finish line,
assists in separating the dogs and the lure
from the dogs after their run, re- strings the
pulleys, readies the lure and prepares the
lure for the next runner.
Field Master Assistant and Lure
Runner: Catches and retrieves the runners
at the finish line, assists in separating the
dogs and the lure from the dogs after their
run, re- strings the pulleys, readies the lure,
prepares the lure for the next runner and
runs the lure out to the start for the
slippers/handlers as needed.
15. Glossary of Lure Coursing Terms
1. Course/Coursing: Lure course patterns
can vary from short, straight courses, to
elaborate pulley systems and extremely
long courses that zigzag and mimic the way
a rabbit would run in the field.
2. Follow: Means in pursuit of the lure, not
another dog or dogs.
3. Free Run: Running is best for building a
good cardio system. This is hard running,
not running around in the back yard.
4. Hand Slipped: Releasing the hound by
hand upon movement of the lure.
5. Handlers (usually the owner) hold the dog
at the starting line and retrieve them at the
finish line.
6. Lure: The lure used in lure coursing is
made of plastic bags or animal skins.
(Skunk, Raccoon)
7. Lure Coursing: Lure coursing is a humane
sport which attempts to re-create the chase
of the rabbit by the pursuing dog. The
"bunny" consists of a white plastic bag or
animal skin attached to a line that runs
through a series of pulleys to simulate the
zigzag path of a rabbit on the run.
8. Lure Operator: Operates and starts the
lure at the signal from the dog owner, and
makes every effort to keep the lure 10-25
feet in front of the dog at all times, and will
stop the lure anytime the safety of the
dog(s) are in jeopardy. To run the lure
machine, the lure operator holds the button
down on the switch to make the lure go and
releases the button to stop or slow down
the lure. The process of “jogging or pulsing”
the switch is the normal way that a course
is run.
9. During the running of the course, the lure
operator has the authority to stop the lure if
a hazard develops, or when a loose dog or
other object enters the coursing field. The
lure operator also may stop the lure at any
time and for any safety reason as the lure
operator deems appropriate.
10. The course is considered finished only when
the lure comes to a complete stop, and it is
the lure operator's responsibility stop the
lure safely away from the lure machine.
11. Lure Wise: Dogs with considerable lure
experience are termed "lure-wise" and may
try to anticipate or "cheat" by attempting to
cut off the lure instead of trying to capture
the lure using follow, speed and agility.
12. Running Clean: Not interfering
another dog during coursing.
with
13. Slip Collar/Leash: A slip collar is simply a
wide leash with a set of metal D rings. The
collar is held in such a way that when
released, the dog is set free to chase the
lure.
14. Straight Coursing: Straight drag coursing
is a short sprint of about 475-600 feet, run
three times over the course of a three hour
period. It’s not a competitive race, but the
dogs are cheered on by the other coursers and one dog is always faster than the other,
but all are always winners.
15. Wrapping: Many Sighthound owners
choose to wrap their dog’s legs with
VETWRAP to protect them from possible
line burn and to keep the dew claws from
catching the line. In most cases this isn't
necessary since the line is kept out in front
of the dog at all times, and we do not use a
continuous loop system.
16. Overrun: Failure of the lure operator to
maintain adequate distance in front of the
lead dog resulting in the lead dog passing
or overtaking the lure.
17. Pre-Slip: The dog is slipped (released)
before the lure is moved.
We do conformation with our dogs for us,
not them. We do agility with our dogs for
the both of us. We do lure coursing with our
dogs strictly for them."
16. Coursing Day Event -Set-Up
Information
Set-up starts at 2:00 p.m., coursing starts
at approximately 3:30 p.m. and tear down
begins directly after the last dog has run.
Lure coursing is a team effort and
participants are encouraged to stay for the
entire day and assist in the set-up and tear
down of the course.
The safety of our coursing dogs is always
our primary concern, and we make every
effort based upon our coursing experience,
field conditions, field terrain, weather
conditions, coursing dog breeds for that
day, number of dogs and other factors to
design the course to be as safe as we
possibly can.
And as an extra precaution, before any dog
is run, the course is walked and checked for
rocks, holes, glass, bottle caps or other
hazards.
At least three people are always involved in
setting up the course; including but not
limited to, the Lure Operator, Hunt Master,
Field Master, Field Master Assistant(s) and
First Aid Assistant.
After the course has been selected and
agreed upon we do a test run to insure it’s
safe for the other member’s dogs to run the
course. If no problems exist we will allow
the other dogs to run.
However, if we feel that a pulley or pulley
angle or design of the course is such as to
prevent the dogs from running safely, we
will make the necessary alterations to the
course.
Since we operate in a community park that
we have to share with others, there will be
inconveniences, distractions and potential
problems, but the better we can minimize
the inevitable, the less stressful, and
smoother running and more enjoyable the
day will be.
Any alteration to the approved courses
by an HLCC member is not allowed as
an altered course is not considered a
safe course.
17. HLCC Approved Course Plans:
Straight Drag Lure Course
“G” Drag Lure Long Course
“F” Drag Lure Long Course
Straight Drag Lure Course
Field Pulley Set-Up Diagram
Out Field Cones/Pulleys
Figure 1
Right Field Cones/Pulleys
The distance from the Green Start Cones
to the first Finish Zone Pulley is
approximately 550 feet or approximately
183 yards for the straight drag lure course.
Our course is a straight drag lure line
course, with a 50 foot catch area. However,
these figures vary depending on the actual
course configuration.
Drag Lure Long Course Pulley Set-Up
Figure 2
1. Field Pulley Set-Up. From the start line
to the first pulley (Turn 1) the distance is
approximately 425 feet. Turn 1 to turn 2 is
approximately 95 feet, and the short
straightaway from turn 2 to turn 3 is 100
feet in length. From turn 3 to turn 4 is 95
feet.
The last straightaway from turn 4 to the
end zone (Pulley 5) is 175 feet in length.
The last pulley (Pulley 5) to the machine
pulley is 56 feet and the pulley into the
machine area is 9 feet in length. The total
course length is approximately 950 feet.
The “Long Course” does not require the
smaller orange Field Pulley Cones be
placed next to the pulleys out on the field.
HLCC “F” Drag Lure Long Course Diagram
The extra pulleys at the turns provide
the dog with a warning of the turn in
the same way a rabbit warns of a turn
when it shifts its ear and tail positions
before making a turn.
HLCC “G” Drag Lure Long Course Diagram
Hawaii Lure Coursing Club members,
participants or organizers offer their
opinions based on experiences as dog
handlers in lure coursing and in no event,
will the Hawaii Lure Coursing Club be
liable for any damages, whether direct,
indirect, general, consequential, incidental,
exemplary or special, arising from the use
of information provided in the Hawaii Lure
Coursing
Club
Lure
Operator
Handbook 2013.
The Hawaii Lure Coursing Club does not
make any warranties or representations
with respect to the content, quality,
accuracy
or
completeness
of
any
information or materials contained in the
Hawaii Lure Coursing Club Lure
Operator Handbook 2013, including but
not limited to: text, graphics, applications,
databases, services, medical information,
veterinary information, dog training or
behavioral information or any other
information or materials.
Nor shall the Hawaii Lure Coursing Club
assume any legal liability for the content,
quality, accuracy or completeness of said
information and materials.
The Hawaii Lure Coursing Club website,
brochures, handbooks, pamphlets and
booklets may or may not contain
copyrighted material whose use has not
been specifically authorized by the copyright
owners.
Therefore, when available, practical and
applicable, credit is provided as to the
original source and copyright owner of the
material. We believe that this “not-forprofit” and for “educational use” on the
Web constitutes a fair use of the
copyrighted material (as provided for in
section 107 of US Copyright Law).
If you wish to use this copyrighted material
for purposes of your own that go beyond
fair use, you must obtain permission from
the copyright owner.
This pamphlet is not for sale and is
available to HLCC Members without charge.
It can also be downloaded for free via our
website at www.hawaiilurecoursingclub.com
And finally, according to Tom Bianchi, the
designer and engineer of the Injoy Lure
Coursing Machine, there are many variables
that can influence how successful your lure
coursing machine will operate in the field:
weather (hot, cold, wet or dry) length of
grass, type of terrain, string condition (old
or new) string tension, type of drive wheel,
condition of the motor, condition of the
battery,
condition
of
the
electrical
connections from the battery to the solenoid
to the motor to ground, pulley placement
on the field—particularly hold down pulleys,
pulley condition, and finally, the choice of
lure operator.
He suggests you eliminate as many
variables as possible before you get to the
field to set up the course, and to make a
check list of things to do the night before
the lure coursing event.
Have a safe, fun and enjoyable lure
coursing day.
The Hawaii Lure Coursing Club