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THE WEST AUSTRALIAN FRESH
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THURSDAY, MAY 8, 2014
FRESH
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RECIPES | NEWS | WINE & BEER | REVIEWS
This year’s
must-have
cookbooks.
P2
LOVE MUM
Delicious Mother’s
Day brunch
treats. P6-7
LITTLE PIGGY
Food delivery
service corners
the market. P10
BIG
APPLE
Southern Forests growers
celebrate pink lady’s
40th anniversary
IN THE PINK Sweet and savoury apple recipes. P4, 5, 8 & 9
THE WEST AUSTRALIAN FRESH
•
THURSDAY, MAY 8, 2014
�
2 FIRST BITE
FRESH
Broadbrush
Thursday, May 8, 2014
INDEX
A taste for this week
Broadbrush & Books
for cooks ................................. 2
Apple royalty.......................... 3
Pink lady recipes.................... 4
Baking paper .......................... 5
Recipes & community
column ............................... 6-7
Export experts and Jenni
Jordan recipes ....................... 8
Farmers’ market and Jenni
Jordan recipes ........................ 9
Food News & Grilled .......... 10
Wine, beer & review .............11
Off the shelf .......................... 12
COVER
Harvey
Gibblet
PHOTO Iain
Gillespie
FEATURES EDITOR
Mark Mallabone, 9482 3574
[email protected]
EDITOR
Hermione Stott 9482 3451
[email protected]
STAFF WRITER Olga de Moeller
WINE Ray Jordan
BEER Vic Crossland
CONTRIBUTORS Emma Chitty,
Connie Clarke, Mark Irving
DESIGN Rochelle Smith
ADVERTISING Marissa Owen
9482 3754
Talking
turkey
It’s such a pity
that most
people only
Susannah Carr
associate
turkey with Christmas. It really
is the most versatile of meats
and is fantastically good for
you. Not only is it high in
protein and low in fat, it’s also
low GI and is one of the few
foods that contain the amino
acid tryptophan, which helps
strengthen the immune
system. So, plenty of pluses on
the health side.
Mix turkey breast with a little
of the darker leg meat to make
great burgers or meatballs, or
for a delicious schnitzel flatten
out a piece of breast, season
and squeeze some lemon over.
Then dip in flour, beaten egg
and panko crumbs before
frying.
For a really healthy, light
meal try Thai larb. Chop some
breast meat into small pieces.
Fry some ginger, garlic,
lemongrass and chilli. Add the
turkey. Toss and fry for a
couple of minutes. Add in fresh
coriander, mint and a thinly
sliced red onion. Add lime juice
and fish sauce to taste. Serve
in a lettuce leaf. .
Rob Broadfield
Guy Grossi will
be a guest at
Truffle Kerfuffle.
Gourmand World Cookbook best
photography award winner,
Sarogini’s Sri Lanka Food, has won
another gong this week — a silver
medal in the New York-based
Independent Book Publishers
Awards, or IPPYs. The IPPYs will be
presented on May 28 and attracted
more than 5000 entries from 35
countries.
Sri Lanka Food was published by
four friends — Sri Lankan-born
Melville local Sarogini
Kamalanathan, North Perth
photographer Craig Kinder, South
Perth designer Cally Browning and
Tuart Hill journalist Norman Burns.
You might remember we placed
the book on our Fresh Christmas
cookbook recommended list last
year. It’s a favourite. The 188-page
book is now in the running, against
entries from 187 countries, for the
World’s Best Cookbook
Photography gong, which will be
announced in Beijing on May 20.
Truffle season is just weeks away
and in Manjimup locals are gearing
up for the celebratory Truffle
Kerfuffle weekend when celebrity
chefs share equal billing with the
real stars of the WA truffle
industry, the truffle
dogs. There’s a host
of events and a
special guest chef,
My Kitchen Rules
judge and
restaurateur Guy
Grossi.
Chef and
Manjimup truffle
grower David
Coomer will also be
starring, as will your
correspondent,
who’ll be hosting a
dinner on Saturday
evening.
Taste of Perth was a huge
success at Langley Park.
Broadbrush has been
flitting around the
South West over the
past week, taping
segments for our
upcoming Today
Tonight series on the
search for WA’s
Signature Dish. With
semifinal cook-offs in
Albany, Denmark and
Perth completed, the
regional winners are
now honing their skills
for the ultimate live cook-off at the
Perth Convention and
Entertainment Centre on WA Day,
June 2.
The competition requires that
home cooks plate up a dish that
best showcases WA produce. Most
of the dishes we tried during the
heats had wonderful family stories
to them — many of them tried and
true over several generations.
Look out for the Today Tonight
stories in the week leading up to
the grand final.
One of the Signature Dish
regional finals was held at Sophie
Zalokar’s Forager’s kitchen in
Pemberton. Soph reminds us that
she is putting on a Champagne &
Autumn Food dinner on Saturday,
May 24. Tickets are a steal at $120.
How about marron and lime
ceviche with finger lime and
coconut wafer teamed with
Jacquart Brut Mosaique NV or
Ruinart Blanc de Blancs Brut with
cauliflower, walnut and fontina
croquette with citrus salt and
bitter greens?
And to finish — Moet et Chandon
Nectar Imperial teamed with feijoa
apple cider jelly, roasted almonds
and clove-infused cream.
Dish Of The Week. We popped
into Habitue at North Fremantle
The Little Book of Chocolat
Joanne Harris and Fran Warde,
Random House Australian, hard
cover, $29.99
While they’ve each had plenty of
solo success, this duo create
beautiful cookbooks together —
and their latest is no exception.
Dedicated to “chocoholics around
the world”, The Little Book of
Chocolat oozes indulgence,
providing a sweet speakeasy
among ever-growing healthy
lifestyle cooking.
.................................................................................................
The Patient Chef
Chris O’Brien Lifehouse, Random
House Australia, soft cover,
$24.99
Rarely does a cookbook cross our
desk with a better message than
The Patient Chef. Written for
people with cancer, the book
features a compilation of recipes
from cancer patients, carers and
chefs to help those suffering
appreciate their meals during a
demanding and gruelling time.
Many of the recipes from cancer
patients come with a message of
love and advice — about the dish
or otherwise.
.................................................................................................
MONDO
Butchers Extraordinaire
Gourmet Cake Stall at Mondo’s
For “HIKE 4 HUNGER”
Sat 10th Starts 8am till all gone
Pre order on 0438 968 586
Lemon Curd Cup Cakes Yum!
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Come See Our Fabulous Shop
for a late-evening bite this week
and ordered the ox tongue share
plate. Tongue has never tasted so
good, with a hint of smoke from
the kitchen’s charcoal roaster.
Somehow it had managed to
capture an American smoke
flavour — and, yes, there is an
American flavour to slow-smoking
and barbecue which no one seems
to be able to reproduce here.
When next you’re at Habitue, order
the tongue, and you’ll swear you’re
eating the cooking of a central
Texas pit master.
Follow Rob
Broadfield on
twitter at
@robbroadfield
Books for cooks
Tasty Express
Sneh Roy, Random House
Australia, soft cover, $39.99
As the brains behind popular food
blog Cook Republic, Sneh Roy is
no stranger to sharing her recipes.
In her debut cookbook, she pays
tribute to the many places she has
lived — including India, South-East
Asia, Malaysia, Thailand and
Sydney. Sections dedicated to
Cafe Culture (breakfast), Urban
Lunchbox (lunch), Supper Club
(dinner) and Treat Factory
(dessert) will help readers cook
quick, wholesome, yummy dishes
for every meal of the day.
.................................................................................................
Argentinian Street Food:
Empanadas, Helados & Dulce De
Leche
Enrique Zanoni and Gaston
Stivelmaher, Murdoch Books, hard
cover, $29.99
A cookbook devoted to stuffed
pastries and ice-cream — unusual?
Yes. Delicious? Absolutely. Zanoni
and Stivelmaher, Argentinian chefs
who run three restaurants in Paris,
first guide readers through making
empanada dough and offer
options for folding and decorating
the specialty food.
.................................................................................................
Phone 9371 6350
Once again WA has punched above its weight
with last weekend’s Taste Of Perth festival
exceeding attendance forecasts and, in the process,
securing its future as an annual event on the Perth
foodie calendar.
The Taste peeps tells us that 16,376 people went
through the turnstiles over the three days, a
significant increase on the 15,000 projected
attendance figures. The three most popular dishes
at the Taste village were the rotisserie suckling pig
slider from Bib & Tucker (and yes, it was awesome),
pork belly from Nobu and El Publico’s lamb taco.
We love a good statistic at Broadbrush and for
those similarly inclined you’ll be pleased to know
that at restaurant Lalla Rookh 2890 Nonna’s
meatballs were consumed, El Publico convinced
the public to eat 2000 insects (crickets to be
precise) and 3000 tortillas.
Any questions that the Taste festival might not
return to Perth were banished at the weekend as
the event organisers hailed the weekend “a great
success”.
824 Beaufort St, Inglewood
WIN
One Dish, Two Ways
Jane Kennedy, Hardie Grant
Books, soft cover, $39.95
While Jane Kennedy is a woman of
many talents, including radio
presenter, producer and actress,
she clearly had only one thing in
mind when creating this cookbook
— taking the stress out of
preparing family meals.
With five children, Kennedy says
she was determined to avoid
eating “boring, plain kids’ food.”
And so each recipe in the book has
two options — the first with basic
ingredients everyone will eat and
the second including extra,
interesting ingredients that just
adults will enjoy.
.................................................................................................
Flavours of Melbourne
Jonette George and Ethan
Jenkins, Smudge Publishing, hard
cover, $69.99
This isn’t just a cookbook — it’s an
ode to Melbourne and all that
happens in the bustling,
culture-packed city. Readers are
taken on a tour of Melbourne
dining, from Bourke Street to
Southbank, Block Arcade to the
Queen Victoria Markets.
George and Jenkins highlight
several venues from each location,
telling their story and providing an
accompanying dish.
.................................................................................................
Fresh is giving one lucky reader the chance to win Flavours of
Melbourne and One Dish, Two Ways. Write your name, number and
address on the back of an envelope and send to Fresh Books for Cooks
Competition, GPO Box 2910, Perth, WA 6800. Entries close 5pm on May 15
with the winner drawn the same day and notified by mail. Employees of
The West Australian and immediate family are ineligible to enter.
Entrants’ details will be used for marketing. See WAN privacy policy at
thewest.com.au/privacypolicy.
THE WEST AUSTRALIAN FRESH
•
THURSDAY, MAY 8, 2014
40 YEARS OF PINK 3
Original father and
son members of the
enterprising Manjimup
Apple Export
Syndicate, a locally
owned pink lady
export co-operative,
circa 1985.
Apple royalty
The pink lady, developed in our South West, is now
an international favourite. OLGA DE MOELLER reports.
Pemberton pink
lady growers
Dennis and Paul
Barnsby.
two pink ladys and two sundowners
— and one picked up a sundowner
and said it was too much like a yate
and “wouldn’t go nowhere” — and
it didn’t. The pink lady did take off,
though the other gentleman said
the only problem with it was that
people would be looking for more
colour as years went by — and they
did, but it was never supposed to
have 100 per cent colour and it’s
always been an outstanding apple.
Our first (rootstock) sales were in
1988 . . . from there on, I don’t think
the pink lady ever looked back.”
Garry Langford, manager of
intellectual property with Apple
and Pear Australia, said the variety
makes up 30 per cent of all apples
sold nationwide. “They’re the
number one premium apple brand
in the world,” he said.
“They are particularly popular in
the UK and Europe, where they
make up 10 per cent and 4 per cent
of total apple sales respectively. We
are (also) getting a strong response
from Asian customers, who tell us
that pink lady apples are desirable
and they want a premium and
unique product.”
Manjimup orchardist Mauri
Lyster, who started picking this
year’s crop last week, said the
secret was in the long ripening
period, which developed the
apple’s sugars, and in the
growing conditions that produced
its characteristic fuchsia blush.
“Cold nights and warm days
enhance the colour,” he said. “We
get a 15C temperature differential
here and that really brings out the
pigmentation. Even in the Hills,
around Pickering Brook and
Karragullen, you can’t grow a pink
lady with the same colour you get
down our way.”
Then there’s terroir. Pink ladys
thrive in areas suited to grapes, so
the fruit will always have the subtle
characteristics of the region it was
grown in, which puts Southern
Forests stocks in high export
demand.
“It’s been such a great apple for
us and is celebrated more in France
and the UK than it is here,” Mr
Lyster said. “The variety is not as
biennial as some and will put on a
good crop every year so long as you
give it enough food. This is one tree
that will never fail you.”
Tony Fontanini has been growing
it for 25 years.
“Everybody who comes down to
the farm wants to buy the pink
lady,” he said. “It’s had a lot of
publicity and that’s driven demand.
I think it’s a unique apple that
rejuvenated the industry when it
was going downhill, just as new
varieties, like jazz, kanzi and
greenstar, will turn out to be sort
of like a shot in the arm for us
now.”
Manjimup apple
grower Morris
Lyster started
picking his apple
crop at the
beginning of
May. Pictures:
Iain Gillespie
AVON VALLEY GOURMET FOOD AND WINE FESTIVAL
Only 96kms from Perth in the heart of the picturesque Avon Valley.
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Food, Land &
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Cooking Demos
Food Conversations
Sophie Budd
Katrina Lane
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Bella Bushell
Slow food Org
Xavier Poupel
Beer tastings
Licensed bar
Chilli-Cheese
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Cookware - Gadgets
Market Stalls
Yabbies - Oysters
Chocolate
Wine Tastings
Spirits Tastings
14W2406152-1/5
I
n the world of apples, pink lady
University and took a liking to the
is queen. What other variety
name pink lady — now a trademark
has a website, Facebook page,
— after coming across it in a novel,
Twitter account and fan club?
The Cruel Sea, by Nicholas
Undeniably crisp, with a firm flesh
Monsarrat.
and a zingy sweet flavour, it’s one of
“It stuck in my mind,” he said.
the great success stories of the fruit “It was the favourite drink of the
industry, bred in WA as Cripps pink captain of the HMS Compass Rose.
and grown under licence by
“The aim was to combine the best
thousands of orchardists in more
features of Lady Williams, which
than a dozen countries for a truly
has a long storage life under
global brand.
refrigeration — actually two years
Southern Forests, a picturesque,
— and transports well, with golden
fertile region 300km south-west of
delicious. It’s an apple that has a
Perth, is home to the pink lady,
very thin skin and is quite sweet
which is grown around Manjimup
and crisp, but is not a longand celebrates its 40th
keeping variety, though it is
anniversary this month
used in a lot of breeding
with a range of events.
programs.”
Former Department
More than one
‘It’s been such
of Agriculture WA
million pink lady trees
a great apple
horticulturalist John
were planted in
Cripps, who crossed a
Australia
by 1996,
for us . . . ’
Lady Williams with a
producing more than
golden delicious as part
10,000 tonnes of apples.
of a breeding program to
Retired Pemberton
create a good-eating apple
nurseryman Dennis
for export to Europe, had no
Barnsby believes it’s the apple
idea it would become an
that growers needed to breathe new
international sensation when the
life into an industry dominated by
variety was developed in the 1970s.
Granny Smith, golden delicious
“Conventional wisdom is that the and red delicious.
chances of success in coming up
“By then, high early had run its
with a right cross are one in
time and Lady Williams was
50,000,” Mr Cripps, 87, said. “We
strictly grown down south and only
produced 118,000 seedlings and got
in selected areas to get the colour,
two commercial varieties — Cripps so pink lady was the one they were
pink and Cripps red, which is
looking for — not that anyone
marketed as sundowner.”
would have realised at the time.
Mr Cripps said he came to
“I remember a discussion with a
Australia as a “10-pound Pom” after couple of elderly gentlemen about
finishing his degree at Reading
four apples we had on the table —
MAY 31ST - JUNE 1ST NORTHAM REC CENTRE
Entry: $12. Kids U12 FREE.
Get tickets online now or at the door
/AvonEventsMarketing
E: [email protected] Phone: 0429 260 537
Long table lunch garden, grill and guilt
shared with Australian Iron Chef Winner
Herb Faust and Barton Jones Wines
$167 inc entry and wines
THE WEST AUSTRALIAN FRESH
•
THURSDAY, MAY 8, 2014
4 40 YEARS OF PINK
Rosy glow at
core of appeal
The possibilities are endless when cooking
with pink ladys, reports OLGA DE MOELLER
T
here’s more than one way
it’s better not eaten straight off the
to eat a pink lady apple.
tree because the flavours develop
How about sliced through
with time.”
an autumn salad, layered
She said cooking with it was a
through a jamon wrap or pan-fried
dream because, unlike the Granny
into a buckwheat pikelet?
Smith, pink lady kept its shape and
Pemberton chef Sophie Zalokar,
retained the gorgeous pink blush
from Foragers Field Kitchen
on its skin.
and Cooking School, has
“I bake it either as a
put together three recipe
whole stuffed apple, roast
cards to show just how
it, or slice and cook in a
versatile the pick of the
‘It’s got a great
syrup and that colour
season’s crop is and
always stays and
balance of
will demonstrate each
doesn’t become
dish at the Manjimup
sugar and acid.’
opaque,” she said. “It’s
Farmers’ Market on
got a great balance of
May 17.
sugar and acid, plus a
“The pink lady gives the
good crunch, which all
salad not only sweetness but
adds up to the perfect apple.”
a nice acidic bite and gets you out
The recipe cards will be
of that Waldorf salad rut,” she said. available at the Manjimup
“It’s a very versatile apple that
Farmers’ Market on May 17 and
doesn’t brown too quickly —
will also be included in punnets of
though a greenstar doesn’t brown
premium pink lady apples from
at all — and is one of those apples
specialty fruit and vegetable stores
that benefits with storage. In fact,
from June.
Pictures: Craig Kinder
Sophie Zalokar
makes her
delicious
buckwheat
pancakes
incorporating
pink lady apples.
Picture: Iain
Gillespie
Pink lady apple wraps
Serves 4 as a snack
200g brie, sliced
1 pink lady apple, quartered,
cored and sliced
witlof or baby cos lettuce heart
100g jamon or prosciutto,
thinly sliced
1 tsp lemon thyme leaves
freshly cracked black pepper
Lay a piece of brie and two slices
of pink lady apple on top of a
witlof leaf. Wrap with a slice of
jamon and serve garnished with a
little lemon thyme and freshly
cracked black pepper.
Pink lady apple autumn salad
Serves 4
2 medium fresh beetroot, peeled
1
⁄2 cup hazelnuts
3 tbsp macadamia oil, plus extra
1 tbsp apple cider vinegar
1 tsp grainy mustard
1
⁄2 tsp sugar
salt flakes and freshly cracked black pepper
2 small parsnips, peeled
2 handfuls baby kale
1 handful watercress
1 witlof, leaves separated
1 small fennel bulb, thinly sliced
4 radishes, thinly sliced
1 pink lady apple, quartered, cored, sliced
200g goat’s cheese, thickly sliced
Preheat oven to 180C. Slice the beetroot thinly, lie
evenly on a baking tray and drizzle over a little
macadamia oil. Roast in the oven for 10-15 minutes
until crispy around the edges. Toast the hazelnuts on
a separate baking tray in the oven for 10 minutes until
golden. Rub the skins off and roughly chop. Whisk the
3 tablespoons macadamia oil, apple cider vinegar,
mustard and sugar together in a small bowl with salt
and pepper. Using a vegetable peeler cut the parsnips
into ribbons. Toss together with the remaining
ingredients except the apple slices, goat’s cheese and
a little of the hazelnuts, in a large bowl with half the
dressing. Layer the salad mixture with the roasted
beetroot slices, pink lady apple slices and goat’s
cheese and garnish with the remaining dressing and
toasted hazelnuts. Serve with black pepper.
Pink lady apple and
buckwheat pikelets
Serves 4
1 cup walnuts
1 cup self-raising flour
1
⁄2 cup buckwheat flour
1 tbsp caster sugar
2 eggs
1 cup milk
30g butter
2 pink lady apples, thinly sliced
4 tbsp honey
4 tbsp mascarpone
Preheat oven to 180C. Lay the walnuts on a
baking tray and toast in the oven for 10-15
minutes until the skin is a little darker. Allow
to cool. Place both flours and caster sugar in
a bowl and make a well. Crack the eggs into
the well and together with the milk, whisk
into the dry ingredients to make a thick
batter. Heat a little butter in a pan until
foaming and then pour enough batter into
the pan to make pikelets about the same
diameter as the pink lady apple slices. After
a minute, lay the apple slices on top of the
pikelets. Cook for another minute before
flipping and cooking the apple side another
2 minutes. Rub the walnuts with your
fingertips to crumble and remove the
toasted skins. Serve the pikelets in a stack
drizzled with honey and served with a
spoonful of mascarpone and walnuts.
THE WEST AUSTRALIAN FRESH
•
THURSDAY, MAY 8, 2014
40 YEARS OF PINK 5
Baking paper
Rochelle Smith
Baked pink lady apples
This recipe takes me back to my childhood and
weekend winter nights in with the family. It was always a
treat to have baked apple for pudding. Yummy big,
warm and shiny fruit filled with goodness, what more
could you ask for? Buon appetito.
Makes: 8 apples
8 pink lady apples, washed
50g brown sugar
40g unsalted butter, melted
100g sultanas or currants
60g pecans, finely chopped
40g dates, finely sliced
zest of half an orange
1
⁄4 tsp cinnamon
1
⁄4 tsp mixed spices
extra butter for top of each apple.
drizzle of golden syrup
Preheat oven to 180C. Using an apple corer, take
out the core of the pink lady apples. This will leave
a hole all the way through. Using a paring knife,
score around the belly of the apple a few times.
Pop apples in a baking dish. In a clean bowl, mix
together the remaining ingredients except extra
butter and syrup. Once combined, spoon mix into
cored apples, filling tightly. Put a small square of
extra butter on top of each apple and pop
them into oven. Bake for 25-30 minutes.
Remove from oven, drizzle with
golden syrup and allow to stand for a
TIP
couple of minutes before serving
Walnuts and brazil
with creme anglaise.
nuts also work well
with this recipe,
plus the mix can be
made up to a week
before using.
Stephanie
Carstairs with
students Ebony
and Isaac Jones.
Picture: Iain
Gillespie
Teens produce the goods
Manjimup Shire students are getting creative to
celebrate the apple’s 40th year. MARK IRVING reports.
N
ot every woman is keen to
let the world know she’s
turning 40 but such a
milestone for one lady in
the South West is being marked
with public celebrations.
The pink lady apple has hit the
big four-zero and Manjimup locals
are marking the occasion on the
weekend of May 17-18.
High school students have been
asked to join the commemorations
by making their own video.
Stephanie Carstairs, an
education development officer with
the Shire of Manjimup, is behind
the competition.
Ms Carstairs said the impetus
came from the apple-growing
industry, which wanted to involve
schoolchildren in the 40th birthday
of the pink lady. It is also a chance
to support the branding and
promotion of local produce.
“They wanted to get the younger
generation interested in
agriculture and help raise
awareness of what’s
happening in their own
backyard and what has
come before this
generation because a lot
of people don’t know that
Manjimup has a deep
association with
the pink lady,”
she said.
“It’s an
exercise to
involve young
people because
quite often they
get overlooked
in the
community. This is a way to allow
them to have some input into what
will be a really great celebration.”
Students in Manjimup Shire aged
between 14 and 18 are being asked
to compile a promotional video of
between 60 and 90 seconds. These
can be documentary, narrative, live
action or animation.
There are few other criteria but
those containing references to the
pink lady, and the diversity and
‘It’s an exercise to
involve young people
because quite often they
get overlooked.’
history of horticultural production
in the Southern Forests region, will
be judged more favourably.
“It’s pretty much up to the
students — their imagination is the
limit, really,” Ms Carstairs
said.
“Some people don’t
think of sales and
marketing as part
of agriculture but in fact it’s a huge
part of how we brand and sell the
product and region.
“People who are creative might
not think they could have a career
in agriculture but there’s always
overlap, and what we’re doing is
giving them a taste of all sorts of
careers in agriculture.”
The pink lady is the trademark
for an apple officially called the
Cripps pink and named after John
Cripps, who bred it at the then WA
Department of Agriculture.
“It was germinated in Stoneville
but it underwent a lot of the
screening process at the local
research centre and some of the
first commercial plantings were in
Manjimup, so we often count
ourselves as the home of the pink
lady,” Ms Carstairs said.
“Also, the first tree from the
pollen of the Lady Williams and
crossed into the flower of a golden
delicious, that very first seed which
germinated into a tree in 1974 is in
Manjimup at the Department of
Agriculture and Food’s research
centre.”
It took more than a decade of
screening and breeding before
commercial plantings produced
sufficient crops to take to the
market but the success was
rapid.
By 1996, more than one
million pink lady trees
had been planted across
Australia.
The apple is now grown
in 15 different countries
and sold around the
world.
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y
For onl
Why not order our
speciality Rose Cake.
www.fairy-cakes.com.au
ww
THE WEST AUSTRALIAN FRESH
•
THURSDAY, MAY 8, 2014
6 EATING IN
Go ahead, make your mother
Suze Redwood
She’ll feel super-special with these delicious (and naughty) brunch trea
Drop scones with lemon curd
This recipe is well worth the effort of making
your own lemon curd. They are great little
pop-in-your-mouth mid-morning treats.
A FAVOURITE
Serves 4
110g unsalted butter, chopped
1
⁄2 cup lemon juice
5 egg yolks
100g caster sugar
2
⁄3 cup self-raising flour
50g spelt flour
Chocolate pancake cake
CROWD PLEASER
This incredible-looking pancake cake will certainly make an impression with the mid-morning crowd.
Serves 6
N E XT WEEK
In Fresh we look at
Thermomix’s new
quirky recipes
11⁄4 cups flour
1 tsp baking powder
4 tbsp cocoa
1
⁄2 cup sugar
41⁄2 tbsp vegetable oil
2 eggs
11⁄2 cups milk
60g butter
1 cup whipping cream
1
⁄4 cup icing sugar
100g chocolate, melted
Combine the flour, baking powder, cocoa, and sugar. Combine the oil,
eggs and milk. Fold this through the dry ingredients and mix until
smooth. Set aside to rest for 30 minutes. Lightly grease a non-stick pan
with butter and set it over medium-low heat. When the pan is warm,
ladle about ¼ cup of batter into the pan for each pancake. Cook on the
first side until the edges are set and bubbles form on the surface. Use a
spatula to gently flip the pancakes and cook on the second side until
cooked through. Repeat until you’ve used all the batter. Let the pancakes
cool completely. Whip the cream with icing sugar. Stack the pancakes,
spreading about three heaped teaspoons of whipped cream on top of
each one. Top it with the remainder of the whipped cream and drizzle
with melted chocolate.
Pineapple and rum fritters
VEGETARIAN
These fritters are just the thing to bring a
taste of the Caribbean into your home.
Serves 2
2 cups pineapple juice
2
⁄3 cup brown sugar
1
⁄4 cup white rum
1 cup plain flour
1 tsp baking powder
1 egg
1 cup water
oil for frying
4 slices of pineapple
ice-cream to serve
Simmer pineapple juice and brown sugar in a saucepan over medium
heat for 25 minutes until sauce is reduced by half. Cool slightly. Stir in
rum. For batter, combine flour and baking powder in a bowl. Make a
well in the middle. Add egg and water. Whisk until smooth. Pour oil
into a saucepan to one-third up the side. Dip four slices pineapple,
peeled and cored, into batter. Cook, in two batches, over high heat
until golden. Drain. Serve with the sauce and ice-cream.
1 tsp baking powder
45g extra caster sugar
140ml milk
2 eggs
100g butter, melted
double cream to serve
To make the curd, melt butter in a saucepan, add lemon juic
and set aside. Whisk yolks and sugar in a large bowl to
combine, then add hot lemon mixture, whisking continuous
to combine. Place over a saucepan of simmering water and
stir continuously until mixture thickens, then cool over ice.
Sift flours and baking powder into a large bowl, stir in sugar
then make a well in the centre. Whisk milk, eggs and one
teaspoon melted butter in a separate bowl to combine,
gradually add to flour mixture and mix until a smooth batter
forms. Set aside to rest for 30 minutes. Heat ¼ of remaining
butter in a large frying pan over medium heat until foaming,
drop teaspoons of batter into pan and cook until bubbles
form on the surface, then turn and cook until golden. Repea
with remaining batter. Serve warm with lemon curd and
double cream.
THE WEST AUSTRALIAN FRESH
•
THURSDAY, MAY 8, 2014
FRESH COMMUNITY 7
r’s day
fresh
community
ats
Photography Michael O’Brien
Stylist Ursula Nairn
Boozy orange crepes
LOW FAT
I tend to be a bit heavy-handed with the Grand Marnier.
Use the amount in the recipe as a guide only.
Serves 2
100g plain flour
pinch of salt
1 egg
1 egg yolk
300ml milk
1 tbsp unsalted butter,
melted, plus extra to fry
100g caster sugar
35g unsalted butter
150ml orange juice
zest of 1 orange
3 tbsp Grand Marnier
ice-cream, to serve
Place the flour, salt, egg, egg yolk, milk and butter in a food processor and whizz
until combined and mixture forms a smooth batter. Pour into a jug, and let sit for 30
minutes. Heat a small frying pan to medium-high. Carefully brush the pan with a little
melted butter. Tilting the pan slightly, pour in about two to three tablespoons of
batter, to just cover the base. Cook for
1-2 minutes until base of the crepe is
lightly browned. Carefully flip the crepe
to brown the other side. Transfer to a
plate and repeat until batter is used. To
make the sauce, heat sugar and one
tablespoon water in a frying pan over
low heat, stirring to dissolve sugar. Add
butter, then increase heat to medium
and cook for 4-5 minutes until golden
brown. Add orange juice and zest, and
simmer for a few minutes. Pour in
Grand Marnier and stir to combine. Dip
a crepe into the sauce, then fold it into
quarters and place on a serving plate.
Repeat with remaining crepes and pour
over remaining sauce. Serve with
ice-cream.
Creme brulee French toast
I bought a beautiful loaf of brioche from
my local supermarket, which enabled me
to whip this great brunch up in less than
30 minutes for a hungry mob.
Serves 6
1 loaf unsliced brioche
1 1⁄3 cups milk
2
⁄3 cup cream
4 eggs
1
⁄3 cup caster sugar
1 tsp vanilla paste
2
⁄3 cup caster sugar extra
berries to serve
ce
sly
d
Pre-heat your oven to 180C. Cut the
brioche into 2cm slices. Whisk together
the milk, cream, eggs, sugar and vanilla
paste. Pour into a flat dish and place the
brioche into the custard mixture, leaving
for 5 minutes to soak. Arrange the soaked
slices of brioche on to a lined baking tray.
Place in the oven for 25 minutes or until
golden. With the remaining sugar, heat in
a small pot and allow to caramelise. Once
golden, drizzle over the cooked brioche
slices and serve with berries.
r,
er
g
g,
at
CHALETS AND CARAVAN PARK
MANJIMUP, WESTERN AUSTRALIA
Our team of dedicated foodies will endeavour
to answer all your food and drink queries, so
please, write to us. If you have an opinion on
any of our stories, we’d love to hear your
thoughts, too.
Send in your suggestions, ideas and comments
to Fresh community. PO Box N1025, Perth WA
6000 or email [email protected]
Q: Dear Fresh, I am interested in your recipe in
the newspaper (Fresh, April 24), called
chocolate buttermilk cake with salted caramel
filling. What is condensed milk caramel? Is this a
new product? The old condensed milk with
caramel added or something? I haven’t seen it.
Thanks, Heather.
A: When you boil condensed milk, it makes
caramel. Amazing I know, and oh so delicious.
Here are two ways to make it at home.
Boiling method
1 can of sweetened condensed milk
Remove the label. Do not open the can. Boil
enough water to ensure the can is submerged
when placed in the pot. Cook the submerged
can at a high simmer for 2 hours. Remember to
add water from time to time because the water
will evaporate, leaving the can exposed. If the
can becomes exposed while boiling for too
long, it will explode. Remove the can and let
cool. Open the can with a can opener and use
as a sweet spread or dip.
Caramelising method
2 parts sweetened condensed milk
1 part butter
1 part brown sugar
Melt equal weights of brown sugar and butter in
a pan and simmer on a low heat until the two
become a smooth liquid. Add condensed milk
and raise the temperature very gently until it
starts to simmer. Keep the temperature low and
stir continuously until brown. This should take
around 20 minutes.
.....................................................................................................................................
Q: Hello Fresh team, I love the Fresh liftout. I
have been asking around for turkey bacon in
Perth but can’t find it anywhere. Please help me
find turkey bacon and keep up the good work.
Thanks, Carol.
A: Good gourmet grocers, such as Re Store in
Leederville, stock smoked turkey breast. Ask for
it to be sliced thicker than usual so you can fry it
as bacon. The turkey “bacon” that is popular in
the US is a minced and processed meat (with
preservatives and additives) made to look like
rashers, so this is a much healthier way of
getting what you are after. Hope that helps.
.....................................................................................................................................
COMMENTS
I wanted to send a bravo and hoorah to Jenni
Jordan on her recipes today (Meatballs, Fresh,
May 1). As someone who has lost 8kg on the 5.2
diet and who loves balls of food, I appreciate
them. Cheers, Ian.
For more recipes from Fresh go to
thewest.com/lifestyle
THE WEST AUSTRALIAN FRESH
•
THURSDAY, MAY 8, 2014
8 40 YEARS OF PINK
Tickled pink: the rise of a classy lady
CONNIE CLARK traces
the growing popularity of
a locally bred apple
I
n the fresh-produce aisles of
upmarket chains Waitrose and
Marks & Spencer, Britons can’t
get enough of one of WA’s most
famous exports — the pink lady
apple.
Crunchy and firm, and with a
long shelf life, the fruit that was
first grown in Manjimup toppled
the iconic Granny Smith in 2012 to
become the UK’s third-most
valuable apple variety.
With its own website, Facebook
page and Twitter account, clever
marketing has seen it become one
of four apple varieties from Down
Under starting to dominate the UK
market.
To celebrate its 21 years in the
UK last August, women dressed up
as apples targeted people at London
Underground stations, while a
tie-in with the world-famous Great
Ormond Street Hospital and breast
cancer awareness saw its own
brand awareness grow
significantly.
Already the number onerecognised apple brand in Europe,
and with strong responses now
coming in from Asian consumers,
the variety that started its life in a
then Department of Agriculture
nursery in 1973 is now registered in
more than 80 territories worldwide
and grown in 15.
The rise of the pink lady is in
contrast to its humble beginnings
when apple breeder John Cripps
crossed a Lady Williams with a
golden delicious. Combining the
best attributes of both parent
varieties, it took years of growing,
tasting and storage trials before the
Cripps pink became its own
trademark brand in 1980. The
original Cripps pink tree, now 40
years old, is still growing in the
Manjimup Horticultural Institute.
By 1996, more than one million
pink lady trees were planted in
Australia and, led by WA orchards,
they were producing more than
10,000 tonnes of apples.
The first exports from Manjimup
to the UK began in 1992 and in
just a few years had major
retailers scrambling for stocks.
Peter Richardson has been
involved in the export of pink lady
apples since the beginning,
originally with UK importer Saphir
Fruit and then with agri-business
leader the Craig Mostyn Group. He
helped oversee the initial
partnership with WA industry to
kick off the pink lady commercial
business 22 years ago.
“We knew we had something
special, and certainly the UK and
European retailers knew it was
something special,” he said.
“At the time, I wasn’t shy to say it
was the best apple in the world,
probably from day one.”
Apple and Pear Australia Ltd
(APAL) has been part of the hugely
successful marketing campaigns
that propelled the pink lady into a
globally recognised product.
Intellectual property manager
Garry Langford said the pink lady
was a huge boon for the Australian
apple industry. Still the most
popular apple in Australia, it made
up about 30 per cent of all apples
sold.
“APAL invests in the marketing
and development of the pink lady
brand internationally, where strong
responses are now coming from
Asian consumers wanting the
desirable, premium and unique
pink lady product,” he said.
The export program continues
today but reached its peak a decade
ago, with about 200 containers or
$10 million coming out of Australia
annually.
Cheaper products from South
Africa and Chile have since
brought heavy competition to the
market but Mr Richardson said
European retailers still
acknowledged the WA pink lady
was the best quality available
anywhere in the world.
Newton Orchards’ owner Harvey
Giblett, one of the original
commercial growers in Manjimup,
was on the first export
reconnaissance trips to the UK and
Taiwan, taking samples of the
apples around to retailers.
Along with an exporter, a grower,
a packer and a Department of
Agriculture representative, they
trudged off to England on a
shoestring budget, knocking on the
doors of the UK’s top importing
companies.
“It was very much about keeping
the apple out of the generic apple
barrel,” Mr Giblett said. “For the
very first time, we were selling a
branded product and a particular
image, not just another apple.
“I’ve always credited the pink
lady as much of the reason why our
‘For the very
first time, we
were selling
a branded
product and
a particular
image, not
just another
apple.’
Apple tart with
craisin syrup
Serves about 8
2 sheets good-quality puff pastry
2 tbsp ground almond meal
3 big pink lady apples, cored,
thinly sliced
Craisin syrup
100g craisins (dried cranberries)
3 tbsp caster sugar
1 dsp honey
1
⁄3 cup liqueur muscat
Greek yoghurt to serve
To make the craisin syrup, combine
the ingredients up to and including
the muscat in a saucepan. Bring to
the boil, then simmer for about 20
minutes or until syrupy. Extra
muscat can be added if needed.
Grease a rectangular tart tin with
removable base about 21x30cm.
Roll out pastry to fit. Prick the
bottom and scatter over the
ground almond meal. Arrange the
apples slices to cover the base.
Brush with a little craisin syrup.
Bake at 200C for about 30 minutes
or until pastry is puffed and
golden. Heat the craisin syrup and
spoon over the tart as desired.
Place remainder in a jug. Serve
with yoghurt.
Jenni Jordan
business is where it is today and
still thriving. It’s a fantastic apple
and, alongside John Cripps,
deserves a place in Australian
agricultural history — everyone in
WA should eat a pink lady this
season and be proud that this fruit
came from our State.”
Newton
Ochards’ owner
Harvey Giblett
with the famous
fruit. Picture: Iain
Gillespie
Coconut rice topped with
cardamom-spiced apples
Makes 8 in big cino glasses
Spiced apple
50g butter
2 tbsp caster sugar
3 tsp black cardamom seeds
2 tsp lemon juice
2 tsp lemon zest
3 small pink lady apples,
cored, finely sliced
Coconut rice
4 cups coconut cream
pinch sea salt
1
⁄2 cup caster sugar
1 cup arborio rice
3 kaffir lime leaves
100g flaked almonds, toasted
To prepare the spiced apple, melt the butter in a saucepan and
combine well with the sugar and cardamom seeds. Add the lemon
juice and zest along with the apple slices. Cook for a few minutes.
Keep apples a bit crisp. In another saucepan combine the coconut
cream, salt and sugar well. Add the rice and kaffir lime leaves.
Bring to the boil, then simmer for about 20 minutes or until rice is
creamy. Stir every few minutes. Remove the lime leaves. To serve,
place some creamy rice into a glass. Top with spiced apple and
scatter over a few almond flakes.
Jenni Jordan
THE WEST AUSTRALIAN FRESH
•
THURSDAY, MAY 8, 2014
40 YEARS OF PINK
9
John Cripps bred the Cripps pink apple
variety, popularised as the pink lady.
Picture: Robert Duncan
Blushing beauties
The pink lady’s international success grew from John Cripps’ clever experiment
I
t’s been 40 years since John
Cripps realised his first
seedling after breeding a Lady
Williams with a golden
delicious to create the Cripps pink
apple variety — the tree of which
still grows at the Manjimup
Department of Agriculture and
Food WA’s Horticultural Research
Institute. In the 80s, the apple was
rebranded as the pink lady and
while it enjoys an international
reputation, most may be unaware
that this elegant lady started life in
WA’s Southern Forests food bowl.
Mr Cripps apparently took the
pink lady name from his favourite
novel, The Cruel Sea by Nicholas
Monsarrat (1951). In it, the hero
savours a Pink Lady cocktail.
Pink lady, incidentally, is the
name if the apple meets quality
music, apple-themed kids’
specifications; otherwise the fruit
activities and a full range of market
is marketed as Cripps pink.
goods on offer from
To commemorate the origins of
8.30am-12.30pm. A guided two-hour
these rosy-hued gems,
bus tour will also be departing
members and growers
the markets at 8.45am,
from the Southern
stopping at Manjimup
Forests region are
and Pemberton apple
Apples and
celebrating all things
orchards where guests
pink on May 17 with
will learn the art of
pork work in
the Manjimup
picking pinks and
harmony.
Grower’s Market being
have the opportunity
the hub of activity.
to take a bag home.
Find interactive pink
Adult tickets are $20 and
lady cooking
concessions $15, with
demonstrations from local
access free for children
chefs Sophie Zalokar (Foragers),
under 15.
and Peter Elliot (Dingup House),
Apples and pork work in
and Southern Forests apple
harmony, so Lyster Orchards in
growers talking all things pink,
Manjimup has teamed up with
with free tastings and sales, live
WA’s Prince of Flesh, Vince
Garreffa (sponsored by Craig
Mostyn and Linley Valley Pork), to
bring the Pink Lady and Pork
Luncheon. Tickets are $150 per
person, from ticketebo.com.au/
pinkladyandporkluncheon.
And while the pinks are in
season, look out for uniquely
branded Genuinely Southern
Forests premium pink lady
anniversary punnets in select
stores across Perth.
The punnets will include recipes
created by Sophie Zalokar, and
many menus across the Southern
Forests region and surrounds will
include unique dishes featuring the
pink lady in May, June and July.
Visit southernforestsfood.com or
phone 9772 4180 for more
information or bookings.
Upside-down
apple and
cinnamon cake
A family favourite. Leave
the lovely pink skin on.
Serves 10-12
Sift flour, salt, cinnamon and
ginger into a big bowl.
In another bowl, beat the
sugar and butter until creamy,
then beat in the eggs one at a
time and add the zest. Fold
this mixture into the flour
mixture with the buttermilk.
Then fold through the diced
apple. Set batter aside. Melt the butter in a saucepan and cook with the sugar until syrupy.
Slice the second apple thinly, leaving skin on. Grease a 24cm springform cake pan and line the
bottom with baking paper. Arrange the apples slices over the bottom of cake pan and drizzle
over butter-sugar syrup. Spoon over the cake batter. Bake at 160C for about 60 minutes or
until skewer comes out clean. Cool in tin, then invert on to a big cake platter. Dust with icing
sugar.
Jenni Jordan
Bringing your business to food and wine lovers
across WA Every Thursday!
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21⁄2 cups self-raising flour
pinch salt
3 tsp ground cinnamon
2 tsp ground ginger
2 cups caster sugar
250g butter, softened
6 eggs
1 lemon, zest only
11⁄2 cups buttermilk
2 big pink lady apples,
both cored, 1 finely diced
30g butter
1 tbsp brown sugar
icing sugar to dust
THE WEST AUSTRALIAN FRESH
•
THURSDAY, MAY 8, 2014
10 FOOD NEWS & GRILLED
Sisters Katherine (left)
and Jessica Kerr.
Picture: Gerald
Moscarda
Black gold rush
Truffle season is fast approaching and
tickets for this year’s Truffle Kerfuffle
festival, from June 27-29, are now available.
Dig out your gumboots and get in quick for
day passes, the popular truffle hunt,
masterclasses and, of course, the delectable
long-table gala lunch and Hunt and Harvest
dinners, all from the picturesque Fonty’s
Pool property on Seven Day Road,
Manjimup. The special guest this year will be
Curtis Duffy from Grace Restaurant in
Chicago, recipient of two Michelin Stars in
the Chicago 2014 Guide and voted 2013’s
Best Restaurant in the World.
Buy tickets at trufflekerfuffle.com.au.
Exotic balls
We love the Rawsome range at Fresh HQ and director Laila
Gampfer has enlightened our tastebuds again with her new
Rawbles range of raw exotic snack-balls. There are seven in the
range, including Lola, a rich blend of lemon, coconut and
macadamia; Florence, made with figs, walnuts and hints of
fennel; and our favourite, Wanda, a blissful ball of goodness
made with raw white chocolate and raspberries, and rolled in
coconut and raspberry dust. Also new to the range are her
Rawkus Bites, inspired by the Baci chocolate. Visit rawsome.me
for stockist details.
A crackling dinner initiative
How can you not fall in love with a business
called This Little Pig Went to Market? Crafty
sisters (affectionately known as “co-directors
of deliciousness”), Katherine, 26, and Jessica,
29, Kerr have empowered blokes to get in the
kitchen, given a treat to the weary, and cut out
kitchen wastage thanks to their innovative
business which delivers “piglet packs” all over
Perth.
The packs are beautifully packaged with
portioned-up ingredients and instructions, so
all that’s left is simple, enjoyable cooking.
“We are about to celebrate our first
anniversary,” said Katherine, a graphic
designer who set up the mobile business in
2013 with her sister Jessica (the brains behind
the food), to encourage healthier eating at
home in addition to supporting local produce.
“We grew up on a farm and saw how hard
the local farmers worked, so it means a lot to
us to support local producers and suppliers,”
she said.
Each week, the girls devise a menu
consisting of two substantial meals (suitable
for two or four people) which are delivered
every Saturday inside a ribbon-tied, insulated
cardboard box full of fresh meat, chicken or
fish, vegetables, grains and homemade sauces,
plus a step-by-step, pictorial guide on how to
create the meals.
Bursting with zingy, fresh flavours,
favourites include crunchy chicken schnitzel
with kale and beetroot quinoa, Mexican steak
on warm corn, bean, coriander and mint salad,
or sumac and rosemary lamb chops with
crunchy fattoush salad. “We get our meat fresh
from Frank Torre Butchers in North Perth. All
the meat is vacuum-sealed and free-range and
the bread is from Lawleys. We usually source
our fish from Kailis Brothers and all the
veggies from Golden Choice at the Subiaco
Markets.
A Piglet Box for two is $65 and includes two
meals for two nights. The Piglet Box for four,
also for two nights, is $130. Orders must be
made before noon on the Thursday before the
weekend of delivery.
Visit thislittlepigwenttomarket.com.au.
Aussie Wine Month
The West
Australian and
This Little Pig
Went to Market
are giving five lucky
readers in the metro area
the chance to win a Piglet
Pack for two people.
Write your name, number
and address on the back
of an envelope and send
to Fresh Piglet Pack
Competition, GPO Box
2923, Perth, WA 6800.
Entries close at 5pm on
Thursday, May 15 with the
winners drawn the same
day and notified by mail.
Employees of The West
Australian and immediate
family are ineligible to
enter. Entrants’ details will
be used for marketing.
See WAN privacy policy
at thewest.com.au/
privacypolicy.
WIN
May is Aussie Wine Month and a number of WA
wineries are getting involved by hosting events at
their properties, including Downderry Wines who are
putting on Mother’s Day morning and afternoon teas
as part of the Dryandra Country Art, Food and Wine
Trail — a self-drive tour held over the Mother’s Day
weekend which links 23 venues in eight towns
(Wandering, Narrogin, Williams, Wagin, Wickepin,
Cuballing, Popanyinning and Pingelly). All wineries,
cafes and galleries will open from 10am-4pm, entry is
free and all will showcase art pieces.
Visit wineaustralia.net.au for more information.
GOT SOME
FOOD NEWS?
Send details to
berlinda@
berlindaconti.
com
Grilled
Darren’s twice-baked
cheese souffle
Serves 5
RiverBank Estate chef DARREN KING
finds perks in the Swan Valley winery
YOUR FIRST FOOD MEMORY?
Picking mushrooms in the
paddocks across the road from my
nana’s house in Belmont. They
were the size of dinner plates.
There was also a mulberry tree —
Nana would make a delicious
mulberry pie. I also have great
memories of my cousins and I
revelling in the mulberry fight.
⁄2 small onion or shallot
sprinkle of mixed herbs, chopped
35g plain flour
40g unsalted butter, melted, plus
extra to sweat onions
250ml milk
90g gruyere or parmesan
cheese, grated, plus extra for
topping
2 eggs, separated
olive oil
100ml cream
1
and work. It’s a great spot by the
fire in winter and especially good
for late-night munchies.
BEST COCKTAIL?
I’m definitely a fan of mojitos with
white rum, sugar, sparkling water,
lime juice and mint. They’re just
simple and refreshing.
BEST CHEAP AND CHEERFUL?
YOUR FAVOURITE MEAL?
Golden Century Seafood Chinese
I’m a true carnivore and like
restaurant for yum cha in
nothing better than a good piece
Northbridge. I’ll have the deepof medium-rare steak. I’ll have it
fried squid tentacles and all the
with a nice potato gratin in winter
different types of dumplings,
and tomato and buffalo salad
prawns and scallops. I’m also
in summer.
happy with a lazy
barbecue with a few
KITCHEN GADGET
cold beers at home.
WHAT MUSIC DO
YOU CAN’T LIVE
YOU LIKE TO EAT
WITHOUT?
LAST AUSTRALIAN
BY?
My trusted old fish
WINE YOU
To be honest, I listen
spatula that I use
DRANK?
to the cricket or the
every day. It’s
Being head chef in a
footy on the radio.
getting on a bit now
Swan Valley winery
— about 20 years. The
certainly has its
handle is burnt and it’s
benefits. The last drop I
certainly seen better days
tried was RiverBank
but it works just as well as the
Estate’s 2010 Padlock
day I bought it. All the guys at
Paddock cabernet — it’s a great
work have bought one now — they full-bodied red that pairs really
love it. They’re probably about $80 well with lamb.
each, so they’re not cheap but
they’re well worth the money.
FIRST OMG FOOD MOMENT?
Walking into the Loose Box
BEST BURGER?
kitchen for the first time as an
Alfred’s Kitchen in Guildford is just
apprentice chef. I was completely
down the road from where I live
blown away by the granite
benchtops and shiny copper pots
hanging from the range hood, then
to see the dedication and
perfection that went into every
dish — it completely changed my
perception of food and
commercial kitchens. That OMG
food moment has always inspired
me as a chef to this day.
ONCE-A-YEAR INDULGENCE?
Christmas only comes once a year
and you can’t beat a fridge full of
fresh crayfish — they’re so
delicious and special to eat over
the festive season. I normally cook
them up fresh and have them plain
and simple with a bit of lime
mayonnaise.
BUCKET LIST RESTAURANT?
Raymond Blanc’s Le Manoir aux
Quat’Saisons in Oxfordshire,
England, is a restaurant I’ve always
wanted to dine in. I’ve pretty much
been brought up on French cuisine
working at the Loose Box for many
years, and I’d love to go there one
day. I might go next year actually
— we’ll see.
Darren King at
RiverBank
Estate.
Picture: Iain
Gillespie
Sweat off the chopped onions and herbs and
allow to cool. Make a roux by mixing the flour and
butter in a saucepan, then add milk and cook for
about 5 minutes. Add 40g of the gruyere cheese
and allow to cool, then add egg yolks and whisk
until combined. Whisk egg whites until soft peaks
form and fold through the mixture. Oil five
ramekins and fill with the finished souffle mixture
until three-quarters full. Cook at 160C for about
45 minutes or until golden brown. Allow to cool.
Preheat the oven to 180C and turn out the cold
souffle on to baking paper. Add extra grated
gruyere cheese (or
you can crumble
blue cheese) on
top and bake for
10 minutes. Add
cream to a pan
with 50g of grated
gruyere cheese
and reduce to a
good consistency.
Divide cheese
sauce in the
bottom of five
wide shallow
bowls and place
the souffle on
top.
THE WEST AUSTRALIAN FRESH
•
THURSDAY, MAY 8, 2014
REVIEWS
11
Cellar talk
Ray Jordan
Wine of the week
Leconfield cabernet merlot 2012
($24.95)
Beautiful example of this vintage in
Coonawarra. Seductive perfume of red
fruits with a little mint and red currant
playing over the deep dark plum and
blackcurrant characters. So seamless
and balanced on the palate, with superfine tannins and silky oak in support. This
is such a good current drink, yet there is
the substance to handle further cellaring.
Only just coming into WA so ask your
local to get it in. A most underrated and
impressive producer. 93/100
Housemade dips and
tender beef cheeks
are among The
Principal’s tasty
dishes. Pictures:
Michael O’Brien
Alkoomi shiraz 2011 ($14.95)
A vibrant and fragrant medium-bodied shiraz from the
Great Southern. Packed with spicy plums and blueberry
characters. Has a light lick of oak adding to the
structure on the palate. There’s a spicy floral lift here
with some appeal. Easy-drinking wine with plenty of
middle-palate intensity and drive. 90/100
Kirrihill Regional Range Clare Valley riesling 2013
($16)
This is a neat young riesling designed for current
drinking at a good price. Lime and lemony on the nose,
with a tangy crisp palate that’s fresh and zingy. A wine
best for the shorter term. A little hard to find
unfortunately but, hopefully, now a few ownership
issues are behind them, more will be available because
the wines are pretty good. Check out Claremont Cellars
and Grants of Cottesloe. 89/100
First Drop Under the Gun barbera 2012 ($25)
I really love this wine. It’s simply a bloody good drink
made with this underplanted and underrated Italian
variety in Australia. Earthy red berry aromas and a
gorgeously presented medium-bodied palate with
good fruit intensity delivered with understatement.
Great food wine and hopefully the start of more wines
from this variety. 91/100
Willoughby Park sauvignon blanc 2013 ($22)
This cool climate savvy comes from the Porongurups.
Strikes a great balance between light tropical
influences and a little citrus edginess. Fine and precise
with a lingering finish. Excellent current-drinking wine.
This is a producer to watch as its impressive range of
wines start to make their mark. 90/100
Tries hard
but could
do better
PETER KERR finds plenty of tastes worthy of report
in a former principal’s office at the old Midland Tech
The Principal
Address 23 Cale St, Midland
Phone 9250 2995
Open Seven days, 10am until late.
The buzz School was never this much
fun. A lovingly restored former
principal’s quarters pumps out its own
brews (and other drinks), plus generous
serves of fresh, mostly premisesprepared, food.
Website theprincipal.com.au
13.5/20
L
et’s get the obvious jokes
out of the way. Yes, we had
dinner in Midland. No, it
wasn’t Hungry Jack’s. No,
our car didn’t get vandalised. And
yes, we had a good time.
Midland has suffered from its
reputation as a hard-drinking
industrial hub, anchored by the
Railway Workshops (which are
being renovated into a new
medical-based precinct).
But the reality these days is
much different. Perched at the foot
of the Darling Range and within
striking distance of the Swan
Valley, Midland is enjoying
something of a revival — even
hosting a Fringe Festival night
market for the first time this year.
The Principal is the renovated
turn-of-the-century digs of the
former principal of Midland Tech,
which helped to train those
long-departed railway workers. It
has an up-market bush-pub feel,
tissue-paper gardenias and all.
The food is generous, fresh and
in the main rustically plated, albeit
with nice flourishes. The kitchen’s
extra effort, compared with most
similar venues, shined through in
a trio of dips ($13) of guacamole,
hummus and cream-cheesy
capsicum; all house-made.
An accompanying dice of chorizo
was full-flavoured but oddly
lacking in usual “char”. Not so,
four tight, grilled, lamb skewers,
with an excellent fresh and zesty
lime, corn and tomato salsa. A
main of overcooked salmon ($33)
was caught between modern
MasterChef fads and 80s food
fetishes — an arty smear of pesto
added a jarring note.
Better — and excellent value —
were two ultra-tender beef cheeks.
Braised for eight hours in a rich
red wine sauce, they were served
with a chilli corn rosti (potato
cake), with crunchy baby cos
lettuce leaves jutting to one side.
All crowned with crispy pancetta
and a perfectly poached egg.
On a busy night, friendly staff
put to good use the speed walk you
develop as a waiter, although there
were occasional slips with the
timing of our dishes.
The kitchen’s creative rein was
loosened with vanilla yoghurt
panna cotta ($11). A flavoursome
but too-firmly set timbale came
topped with strawberry and mango
jelly, and served with honey,
blueberry ice-cream, pistachio
“soil” and an orange glaze. I still
don’t get how “soil” sells.
A tie-up with wine producer
Mandoon Estate, and housebrewed beers, ensure fine
tipples. A tweak or two of the
dishes, and the Principal would
deserve an A.
Check out the West
Weekend magazine
for reviews by Rob
Broadfield.
MONDO
BUTCHERS
OPENING HOURS
Beer barrel
TUES - FRI
8am - 6pm
SAT 7am - 2pm
Ph 9371 6350
Beer of the week
Badger Hopping Hare (4.4
per cent)
It may be a tad late to star as
the Easter bunny but this
hare from Dorset, England,
hops energetically on the
nose and tastebuds from
three applications of three
European varieties and one
American. Late hopping
gives grapefruit and floral lift
to the malty cereal aroma.
Hops also underpin stonefruit flavours with fresh
citrus, then impart resin and
butterscotch characters on
the dry biscuity palate. The
pale-gold ale in 500ml
bottles finishes medium
bitter — an all-seasons
winner.
1-9 Don’t bother
1 0 -1 1 Patchy
1 2-1 3 Average
14 Recommended
1 5 -1 6 Very good
17 Memorable
1 8-19
Classic/nearing
perfection
20 Perfection
824 Beaufort Street Inglewood
www.mondo.net.au
Murray’s Whale Ale (4.5 per cent)
Vic Crossland
Lager drinkers venturing into wheat beers should appreciate
this American-modelled NSW witbier. Despite bottleconditioning, it pours clear gold. Fragrant herbal and citrus NZ
hops, sweet wheat and banana are repeated as flavours, with
added tart fruit. Texture is light and fairly fizzy.
Leather Britches Cad (4 per cent)
Learn the slow, artful pour: this copper-coloured ale from
timber-clad brewpub equipment at Ashby de la Zouch,
Derbyshire, conditioned in 500ml bottles to stay fresh until
July 2015, is the liveliest since famous White Shield IPA. Full of
earthy English hoppiness, it’s long, dry, nutty, toffee-ish, fruity
and bitter.
Temple Saison (5.4 per cent)
The aroma of this orange-tinged Aussie stab at Belgian-style
farmhouse ale is light malt with yeasty fruit and herbs hinting
at mint. Musty European hop flavours mesh with fresh orchard
and stone fruits, zesty candied lemon, caramel and sharp
wheat on a subtly spiced palate with finishing lemony tang.
BROWN HILL
margaret river
Superb Rich Reds...
Outstanding Value
Handpicked, Estate Grown & Bottled
SMALL PRODUCER OF THE YEAR
Ray Jordan’s WA Wine Guide 2010
Ray Jordan’s WA Wine Guide 2009
2009 PERSEVERANCE
Cabernet Merlot
96 Points, Ray Jordan
2010 BILL BAILEY
Shiraz Cabernet
95 Points, Ray Jordan
CELLAR DOOR OPEN 10AM - 5PM DAILY
Cnr of Rosa Brook & Barrett Rd Rosa Brook W.A. 6285
Freecall : 1800 185 044
Fax: (08) 9757 4004
www.brownhillestate.com.au
THE WEST AUSTRALIAN FRESH
•
THURSDAY, MAY 8, 2014
12 OFF THE SHELF
We put the intense, salty flavour of anchovies to the taste test
RUSSINO
FILLETS OF
ANCHOVIES,
80G, $3.29
Appearance:
Small, circular
glass jar with a
thin green label
and a light yellow
lid. Anchovies are
visible through
the jar and
are stored in
loose round
shapes.
They’re packed in
Morocco.
Taste: These
have the most
texture and are
perfectly salty. They also taste the least
processed.
Ingredients: Anchovies (52 per cent), olive oil,
salt.
Overall: The least pretty and the tastiest.
ALWAYS FRESH ANCHOVIES, 45G, $2.94
Appearance: Small, rectangular-shaped black
box with a flat silver tin inside. The label says
they are specially cured and preserved in extra
virgin olive oil and the front shows the anchovies
on a small crustini with a boiled egg and lettuce.
The back of the box recommends using the
anchovies in pizzas, sauces and Caesar salad.
They’re a product of Spain.
Taste: These anchovies are moderately salty and
smooth in texture. They separate easily in the oil.
Ingredients: Anchovy (53 per cent), extra virgin
olive oil (42 per cent), salt.
Overall: The least popular.
JOHN WEST ANCHOVIES, 45G, $2.79
Appearance: Small, rectangular-shaped
green box with a flat silver tin inside. The
front shows a pizza snack with tomato paste,
capsicum and mozzarella cheese and the
back of the box lists a website for more meal
ideas. They’re packed in Morocco.
Taste: These anchovies don’t come apart
easily in the oil, are quite rough in texture
and very salty.
Ingredients: Salted anchovies 60 per cent
(anchovy fillets and salt), olive oil.
Overall: If you prefer your anchovies
flat-packed, go for these.
All products
purchased at
Woolworths,
Currambine
Central,
Currambine
Where to eat
The freshest bread in Perth
Made with Organic Flour
Cafes
Delicious Aussie Style Meals
Sandwiches & Rolls made to order
"bring in this ad for a free coffee"
Breakfast • Coffee • Lunch • Snacks
Buffet table service no limit on servings
★★★ SPECIALISING IN ★★★
Kids Bouncy Castle Sundays
4752 West Swan Rd, West Swan
Ph 9274 7277
Closed Tuesday
Try our signature Croquettes
Available hot & ready to eat or in
frozen packs. We also supply selected
IGA’s & Spudshed Jandakot & Wanneroo. A selection of continental
sausages and superb Rookworst!
Mon-Fri 5am-2.30 Sat 6am-12noon
29 Adrian St, Welshpool 9361 3903
Lunch Wed-Mon • Breakfast Sat & Sun
Dinner Wed to Sat from 6pm til late...
Mobile woodfired pizza for all occasions
We bring our famous pizza to you!*
Feast like a King for only $29
Drawing on its Italian heritage, L’Enoteca $15 Pizza & Pasta•cond apply*
Tue-Fri: Lunch Tues: Dinner
an Italian wine BAR and BISTRO
offers patrons the chance to experience 94 Aberdeen Street, NORTHBRIDGE
www.ilpadrino.com.au
9227 9065
some of the best Italian wines and
traditional family recipes.
Chicken ⎮Pasta⎮ Pizza
Mon-Fri 6am- 2pm
Phone 9315 9801
6/32 Ardross Street
Applecross
Dinner & Takeaway Tues - Sun
Lunch Thurs to Sun 12:00 - 2:30pm
375 Hay St, Subiaco
6161 8559
Thurs - Sat Lunch ⎮Tues - Sat Dinner
dine in | t/away | home delivery The Vic Kitchen Food & Wine Fully Licensed Ph 9472 5881
310 Walcott St, Mt Lawley 9271 2603
Asian Fusion Restaurant
249 Albany Highway Vic Park
BYO no corkage 7days 5-10pm ★Book NOW for Mother's Day
Restaurants
9473 1762 www.fullmoonthai.com
NOW Tues - Sun 5pm - 10pm
Dine-in ★ Take away ★ Home Delivery
Halal ⎢ FunctionsCatered
19/70 Langford Av, Langford
www.buasiam.com.au 9356 6668
Breakfast✩Lunch✩Takeaway
great selection of food✩perfect location
7 Days • 6:30am - 4.00pm
38 Moolyeen Rd, Mt Pleasant
Ph/Fax us for your catering...9315 3003
★ ALFREDS KITCHEN ★
Sunday-Thursday 5pm-12pm
Friday & Saturday 5pm-2am
Cnr James & Meadow St, GUILDFORD
www.alfredskitchen.com.au 9377 1378
Book Now for Mothers Day
Fantastic, funky & modern surrounds to
enhance your dining experience!
Dine in⎮Takeaway⎮fully Lic & BYO
Tues-Fri 11-3pm Tues-Sun 5-10pm
Freshwater Bay - Perfect View
open every day • 8am-5pm
Phone 9355 0011
All day breakfast,lunch & more 691 Albany Hwy, East Vic Park
Delicious Aussie food & home made
cakes, coffee, tea...
Lilla St, Peppermint Grove
★ 2012 GOLD PLATE FINALIST ★
Mother's Day Buffet
Breakfast or Lunch
7 Days
9383 2890
that won’t disappoint and with a
million dollar view. See web for info
Family run Italian Restaurant
Breakfast | Lunch | Dinner
Generous Portions~Great Atmosphere
Award Winning Seafood
Specialists Restaurant
Mt Lawley Cnr Second Ave & Beaufort
(BYO wine only)
9471 8945
Belmont 86 Great Eastern Highway
9479 7000
Catering for business meetings, gather- (BYO wine only)
ings & social events ~7days fr 7am til late for open times & online bookings
www.redcray.com.au
266 Albany Hwy, Vic Pk 9362 1121
Licensed Restaurant (BYO wine only)
New Moon a new name for
Hoi’s Kitchen
Yes we are now @ New Moon
Kids eat free Tues-Thurs nights*
Come in and enjoy our great food in our
Special Seniors Discount*
new exciting location today
Country Club Ave, ROLEYSTONE
(Lunch Mon-Thu* Dinner Tue-Thu)
Dim Sim Day & Night
views101.com.au
9397 9969
459 Nicholson Rd, CANNING VALE
Day: Tue - Sun............... 9.30am - 3.00pm
*Conditions apply
9456 1362 Night: Fri & Sat ............6.00pm - 9.30pm
www.willowpond.com.au
63 James St, Northbridge 9328 8720
Taste of Thailand
Available
7 days from
11am till late
Restaurant Train
where to eat
Enjoy your next function in our private
room with specialised catering.
Lunch & Dinner 7 Days
from 12noon til late
5/910 Albany Hwy, East Vic Park
T: 9361 1266 Web: tasteofthailand.net.au
#14W2320909-6/3
ER’S DAY
291 William Street, Northbridge
tel: 93285655
e: [email protected]
www.mayamasala.com.au
Where to Eat
Call for info now on 9482 2456
[email protected]
Opening Special 10% off on
presentation of this ad. Dine in
or takeaway (cond apply)
#14W2420927-1/5
FOR MOTH
A: Free ads when you book 4 with
Every Saturday Night & Selected Fridays
Enjoy a 5-course meal in our Vintage Dining Car, meandering
through the night forest - softly floodlit from the train. $79pp
newly refurbished
BOOK NOW
What’s under the lid?
Hotham Valley Railway
Authentic Thai Cuisine
by a well respected Chef
Authentic flavours fused
exotically with a unique
edge in casual yet
sophisticated ambience.
• Indian Curries
• Sth Indian dosas
• Punjabi thalis (veg, nonveg, seafood)
• Spicy Snacks Chaat
• Tandoori dishes &
breads
• Authentic Indian sweets
~Vintage Styled Tea Room~
home made cakes | scones | light meals
Open Fri, Sat & Sun 10am - 4pm
72 Bisdee Road, MILLENDON
Swan Valley ★BYO★ Ph 9296 6567
Enquiries and Bookings
6278 1111
www.hothamvalleyrailway.com.au
To advertise in this section please call Jennifer on 9482 2456 or email [email protected]
BWA01X6WTEBO