MOUNTING OF STANADYNE 33945.pub

MOUNTING OF A STANADYNE 33945 ON 2002 DODGE
RAM 2500 4X4 LONG BED WITH THE CUMMINS 5.9L DIESEL
To assist the OEM Carter fuel supply pump when it begins to fail, I began searching for a helper pump/filter combination that
I could count on to provide a clean, pressurized supply to the supply pump and stay within the normal operating pressures of
the system. The original design of the fuel system allows unfiltered fuel to enter the supply pump, and any contamination in
the fuel could contribute to supply pump failure. When the supply pump pressure drops below 6psi, then the VP44 injection
pump is subject to failure.
A LITTLE HISTORY… How to protect your VP44 Injection Pump?
I purchased a Westach 0-30psi fuel pressure gauge and installed it on my 2002 Dodge Ram 2500 truck very soon after I took
delivery of the truck. I wanted to monitor the OEM fuel supply pump pressure, and to keep a record of the supply pump pressure readings over time. I could use my recorded data to assist in determining the serviceable life of the lift pump, and to devise a corrective action plan for my fuel supply system before major damage occurred to the injection pump.
I began to postulate how to interpret the data I received from the gauge readings, and what checks and repairs were indicated
by abnormal readings. I expected there might be some change in pressure readings between a clean (new) fuel filter and a
used fuel filter element after it was used for 10K miles, (a normal filter change cycle) but I cannot say that I saw any pressure
decrease. I would imagine that the gauge would show a major drop in pressure if the fuel filter became severely contaminated.
If the fuel pressure readings were to gradually lower over time, I should first check for a dirty fuel filter, then suspect a worn
lift pump. If the pressure readings were to drop rapidly or become erratic, I should check for an air leak on the suction side, a
faulty overflow valve on the pump, or a lack of fuel supply. Next, I could test the fuel supply pump delivery quantity.
Aeroquip Teflon hose assembly
from injection pump banjo to
sending unit.
Here is the picture of the current mounting location of the fuel pressure gauge in the dash and the sending unit under the hood.
The left photo shows the gauge mounted where the small storage pocket was on the right side of the dash, and the fuel pressure
reading at idle speed. This pressure reading shown is a combination of the pump on STANADYNE 33945 and the (OEM)
original fuel supply pump. The right photo shows the bracket holding the electric sending unit and the hose connected to it.
This picture shows the R. L. Torresdal Co., Inc. fuel banjo fitting,
installed in the inlet of the injection pump. This banjo fitting is tapped
1/8” female pipe thread. I installed an Aeroquip 2024-2-4S, 90º elbow
adapter (1/8” male pipe to ¼” male JIC) into the banjo fitting and connected the Aeroquip 2807-4 hose assembly (24.5” OAL with ¼” JIC
female swivels on each end).
BEGINNING THE TASK…Location, Location, Location!!!
Rolling under the truck on my creeper, the first task was to determine a suitable location to mount the STANADYNE 33945 pump/filter combo. Mounting this filter unit
presented a couple of challenges due to the overall height of the unit (supply pump on
the top), and the clear bowl/drain on the bottom. I wanted a location that did not require long fuel lines which would increase their exposure to potential damage. A
see-through bowl on a primary fuel filter is a handy option that allows a quick visual
inspection of the condition of the fuel, however the bowl would need basic impact
protection from rocks and road obstacles. In summary, I needed to find a location
under the truck that was accessible for quick visual inspection and draining to remove
contaminants from the fuel, one that was close to the existing fuel lines, and one that
would offer some basic protection to the filter and pump.
I found that the fuel
Extra hole in
Return Line
lines between the tank
frame for 2nd
and the engine were
bolt to mount
routed on the left inside
frame rail and held in
place by plastic clip assemblies mounted to the
frame with self-tapping bolts. The O.D. of the fuel supply
line where there was no overspray of undercoating, was 3/8”
(.375”). I unbolted the two brackets that held the lines to the
Fuel Feed
frame, one bracket closest to the tank and the other attached to
the frame just at the rear of my transfer case. The two lines
Line
above the fuel supply line were not going to be changed, so I
left them in the brackets and then began to look for the best
location for the filter. After holding the Master Filter up to the frame in a couple of different places, I noticed two holes
already in the frame, close enough together to possibly facilitate mounting the assembly. I held the filter assembly up to
the frame rail over the holes, wedging the bracket in-between the lower fuel supply line and the two upper lines. I began to
check the filter assembly for proper clearances. To determine if this was a good location, I considered the following questions:
1.
2.
3.
4.
Can the filter be mounted close to vertical in this location?
Does this location provide adequate protection for the unit?
Is there proper clearance for the unit all around the bowl, filter, and header?
Can the fuel lines be connected easily, and in a manner that will be stable and protected? (continued)
5. Can the filter element be changed easily (access below the unit) and the bowl be viewed and drained when contamination is detected?
6. Is there sufficient clearance above the filter to prevent contact with the supply pump assembly?
NOTE: If any of the above questions are not answered ‘yes’, then you should move the filter to a location that facilitates
a ‘yes’ to all questions. Use of basic mechanical skills are required to determine an alternative location protect the unit.
After a few trial fits, by using one of the original self-tapping fuel line
clamp bolts to mount the filter to the frame, I determined that there
was sufficient clearance around the filter on all sides. There was also
adequate access to allow draining or changing the filter. By locating
the filter in the close proximity to the frame cross-member, it was
provided some protection from road hazards and flying objects. No
other holes would have to be drilled into the frame as the holes indexed with the mounting bracket slots.
The rear hole was not threaded, but by using the original self-tapping
bolt and some tap-light oil, I was able to quickly remedy that situation. I purchased new 8mm bolts with the same thread pitch, adding
about a half inch in length to them, so they would be long enough to
go through the filter bracket using flat washers on each bolt. I bolted
the filter assembly to the frame and got back to survey the mounting
location.
The bracket is
forward and
loose at this
point.
Filter temporarily mounted
to the frame in order to
check clearances.
IMPORTANT!!! The pictures and examples shown here are based on an ‘02 Dodge Ram 2500 extended cab 4X4 with an
automatic transmission. If you have a manual transmission, the filter may have to be relocated further back to clear the
transfer case. DO NOT mount the unit between the transfer case and the frame! The torque produced by the engine can
make the transfer case move over to contact and possibly crush or dent the filter element. Use due diligence in mounting
the filter to ensure proper clearances!!!
Wiggling and sliding the filter forward and backward, I found a location that provided the proper
clearance for the bowl to the cross-member under
the transfer case, and from the skid plate attached
to it. It really looked like this spot was made for
mounting this unit.
Illustration showing clearance between
cross-member and bowl of the filter. Filter
is still temporarily mounted on the frame at
this point.
Clearance between
the top of the pump
and bottom of truck
cab
I could fit my fingertips in between the highest
point on the pump atop the filter and the bottom
of the cab. In the picture, you can just see the top
of the supply pump over the top of the frame rail
and see the clearance above the pump to the bottom of the cab. That should be enough clearance
for the pump, even with the cab sitting on rubber
mounts. The fuel lines should be easy to hook up
in this location, and if I choose the fittings properly, in the event of an emergency, I could make
an additional hose assembly and bypass the filter
altogether. In the event of a failure of the
STANADYNE pump, bypassing the filter assembly would return the truck to the original configuration of feeding unfiltered fuel to the OEM supply pump directly from the tank.
The next step was to determine the hose lengths for the inlet and outlet lines for the filter, how much of the original
metal fuel supply line to remove, and where to cut it. I determined that a hose assembly of about 6” on either side of
the filter would be about the right length for the hoses. Cutting the line at that point wouldn’t make it too hard to
connect the hose to the line between the transfer case and the frame. I removed the bolts from the new filter, took it
down from the frame, and prepared to make the cuts to the fuel line .
CUT THE LINE… but don’t take a bath in diesel fuel!
First, I removed the fuel tank cap to relieve any pressure build up. I then went up to the engine and removed the lid
and element from the original fuel filter and drained as much fuel from the housing as I could. Then I took my
“IMP” (mini) tubing cutter and began to cut the fuel supply tubing. I made sure I put a drain pan directly under the
tubing cutter, because as soon as the cutter broke through the tubing, fuel began running out of the line. If I were to
be reaching up to turn the tubing cutter at the same time it broke through, fuel would run down my arms. As soon as
I felt the tubing give, I pulled my hands away from the cutter on the lines and made sure the drain pan caught the
leaking fuel. When the fuel quit dripping, I proceeded to make the second cut to the fuel line almost even with the
rear of the transfer case.
Aeroquip®Versil-Flare™ ferrule and nut
with a male to male JIC adapter and Push-lok
JIC female swivel fitting.
The fittings I obtained to connect the hoses to the metal lines made the job very easy. I used Aeroquip® VersilFlare™ Flareless tube fittings to connect to the 3/8” fuel line so that I could use standard JIC flare fittings on the
hose. These tube fittings can provide a highly efficient seal even under high pressures and resists vibrations without
leaks. The supply side fuel system pressures on the ’02 are low pressure compared to most hydraulic systems, so
these fittings should work very well! And besides that, they are quite simple to install! First, clean any undercoat
spray from that portion of the line where you will cut it. Use a tubing cutter to cut the steel line, deburr it both inside and outside, put some heavy weight oil on the ferrule nut and adapter, and then slip the nut and then the ferrule
onto the line. Next, fit the male JIC adapter up the end of the line, and start the nut onto the adapter. Be sure to
keep the end of the adapter pressed up against the cut end of the steel line, and tighten the nut finger tight. Mark the
nut and the adapter across the flats with an index line so you can count the number of turns that you turn the nut
while tightening it. The nut should be tightened to the adapter a total of 1-1/4 turns from the index lines you made
across the adapter and nut. Since the ferrule seals to the line at the rear, and the tapered end to the JIC adapter at the
front, you must keep the adapter pressed up to the end of the line when you tighten the nut to the adapter. That’s it!
On the next page is a copy of the Aeroquip™ manufacturers’ instructions for these fittings for your assistance.
CONNECT THE NEW LINES...
This is what the connections look like after mounting the Versil-Flare® setup on the fuel feed line. The
brass fitting with the plastic cap on the end is
where the hose will be connected. This one
is on the line coming from the tank. Note the
arrows in the picture pointing out the inlet
ports on the filter. They are marked by these
signs: > or < on them.
Inlet ports are
the ports with
the > or < on
them, and are
the farthest
away from the
mounting
bracket. Arrows point to
the inlet ports.
MOUNT THE FILTER…
After installing the fittings and plugs into the correct ports on the Stanadyne Master Filter (be sure to use Teflon tape or pipe sealant on all pipe fittings), mount the assembly to the frame using the two new bolts and flat
washers. Then you can measure and cut the exact amount of Aeroquip push-lok hose you need to make up the
new fuel hoses.
HOOK UP THE LINES…
INLET HOSE
FROM TANK TO
FILTER
Cut the hose to fit between the VersilFlare™ assembly on the steel line from
the tank and the fitting in the inlet of the
filter. Remove the brass fittings, lubricate
them and push the fittings into the hose.
Reconnect the hose assembly to the line
and the filter and tighten securely. Do the
same operation to make the fuel supply
hose that goes from the outlet port of the
filter to the metal line behind the transfer
case. Now the fuel supply line is connected between the tank and the original
supply pump, the only difference being
the addition of the new fuel pump/filter
combination.
LET’S GET POWER TO THE NEW PUMP…
Should I connect power to the Stanadyne pump so that it would operate with, and at the same time as, the original supply pump, or should I have it controlled separately with a switch on the dash? I opted to have the new
pump operate only when the original lift pump is operating. The safety considerations of having the pump shut
off in case of an accident to prevent fuel spraying everywhere was one of the primary factors influencing my
decision. I chose to run a positive wire with an in-line fuse from the driver’s side battery terminal to a simple
fog lamp relay which I mounted to the firewall . The signal wire to operate the relay came via splicing into the
positive wire that supplies power to the original supply pump. I used the harness provided with the Fuel Manager filter and added the necessary length of wire to the positive and negative wires to reach the relay.
LET’S GET POWER TO THE NEW PUMP… continued…
There are two wires in the supplied harness with the Stanadyne filter. The red (+) positive wire I connected to the
switched side of the relay mounted to the firewall, and the black (-) negative wire I joined to the ground wire that I connected to the ground side of the relay. For safety and protection against abrasion, be sure to insert all new wires into 1/4”
wire loom and secure it to the either the frame, stationery lines, or an existing wire loom.
#86 Ground wire
#30—Positive feed
(fused) (+) from
battery
#85—Signal from (+) hot wire
that feeds OEM supply pump
#87—12V Output (+) red wire
to the 33945 supply pump
The main positive (+) power terminal to the relay is the in-line fused positive (+) wire connected to the battery cable. The
last connection to the relay is the signal wire from the OEM supply pump on the engine.
Another helpful feature of this wiring configuration is the ability to manually operate only the Stanadyne Master filter’s
pump. You can prime the fuel filters after changing them without engaging the engine starter to activate the pump on the
Stanadyne filter. First, remove the #85 wire from the relay terminal that is the signal wire from the OEM lift pump.
Then, temporarily connect an insulated jumper wire from the positive side of the battery to the signal terminal of the relay.
The Stanadyne pump will run, pulling fuel from the tank through the Master Filter and pushing it through the OEM lift
pump, OEM fuel filter, and injection pump. This can help purge the air from the fuel system after a filter change or for
priming the system after running out of fuel.
the
the
on
After purging the system, and insuring that all connections were tight and wired properly, I turned on
ignition switch. The fuel pressure reading with
only the OEM supply pump used to show up as a
needle movement from 0 to 2 psi while waiting on
“Wait to Start” light to go out. With the
Stanadyne pump and the OEM lift pump both operating during the initial pulse, the fuel pressure
gauge needle moved from 0 to 5 psi when the key
was first turned on. When the “wait to start” light
went out, I engaged the starter and the engine
started. The fuel pressure gauge indicated 18 psi at
idle.
While the engine idled, I proceeded to inspect each
fuel connection for leaks. Be sure to follow standard safety procedures when working around and
a running engine, and before rolling under any vehicle, be sure to put the vehicle in park, set the
parking brake, and place the proper chocks in front
and/or behind the wheels. It is also a good idea to
have an assistant in the vehicle to apply the service
brakes for an added measure of safety. No leaks
were evident, but I wanted to run a few miles and
check for leaks again in a couple of days.
After about two thousand miles, I cannot tell any difference in the engine operation. There is more pressure and volume of
fuel being supplied to the injection pump. There does not appear to be an increase in power after installing the Stanadyne
Master Filter assembly to justify its purchase on that basis. I did not perform a before and after dyno test to determine any
changes as the desire for additional power was not the reason for the installation of the filter/pump assembly.
Observed fuel pressure readings during operation have remained 18 psi at idle, and while ascending a 5-mile long
7% grade at a constant 75mph has been 14 psi. This should provide adequate supply to prevent injection pump
failure from lack of fuel supply.
LIST OF SUPPLIES NEEDED TO MOUNT GAUGE AND MASTER FILTER:
11121122 FT22243 FT1
1
33945 STANADYNE MASTER FILTER
WESTACH 0-30 PSI ELECTRIC FUEL PRESSURE GAUGE
BF-LT FUEL INLET BANJO-LONG TAPPED
BANJO WASHERS (10963-0084, ISUZU) OR (3935171 CUMMINS)
2024-2-4S AEROQUIP 90º ELBOW , SIZE –4 MALE JIC TO 1/8” MALE PIPE
50X4 WEATHERHEAD 90º BRASS ELBOW, SIZE –4 MALE JIC TO 1/8” FEMALE PIPE
63-190600-4 AEROQUIP FITTINGS SIZE –4 , JIC FEMALE SWIVEL TO 2807-4 HOSE
2807-4 AEROQUIP TEFLON HOSE
FC2875-06S AEROQUIP VERSIL-FLARE™ TUBE NUTS SIZE –6 (3/8”)
FF9605-06S AEROQUIP VERSIL-FLARE™ FERRULE SIZE –6 (3/8”)
2027-6-6S AEROQUIP ADAPTER-MALE JIC TO MALE JIC SIZE –6 (3/8”)
4741-6B AEROQUIP SOCKETLESS FITTINGS SIZE –6 FEMALE JIC SWIVEL TO –6 HOSE
2556-6 AEROQUIP 3/8” HOSE SOCKETLESS
RELAY, 12V, FOG LAMP, etc. VARIOUS MFGs, WITH MOUNTING BRACKET
FUSE HOLDER, IN-LINE, 15 AMP, POWER FEED TO RELAY FOR STANADYNE PUMP
Additional supplies needed:
Length of 20 gauge wire to connect wires to gauge as required
Length of 14 gauge wire to connect to relay and pump, (lengths as required)
Various electrical connectors, female spade, rings, tap connectors, etc., as required to connect wires
Length of 1/4” or 3/8” split wire loom.