waistcoats - Attire Bridal magazine

Transcription

ATTIRE
NOV/DEC 09 ISSUE 14
Bridal
How to hold a
successful sale
HIGHLAND FLING
Tap into the niche market
for Scottish apparel
Wonderful
WAISTCOATS
Plus
Industry
news
Bridal trends
Retailer interview
CROWNING GLORY
Tiaras and headbands to suit all brides
WWW.ATTIREBRIDAL.COM
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Wholesalers and importers of tiaras, bridal hair accessories, occasion hats,
NI[KQVI\WZ[JZQLITRM_MTTMZaK]NÆQVS[IVLJZQLM[UIQL[IKKM[[WZQM[
www.jewellery-world.co.uk
email: [email protected]
Tel: 01928 571994
The 2010 Gem Collection
www.JonathanJamesCouture.com
Gown ‘Jewel’ from
‘The 2010 Gem Collection’
by Jonathan James
Victoria Kay
The Ar t of the Dress
Amazing introductory offers
and no minimum order!
Please contact our sales team for an appointment.
+ 44 (0)1424 427284
www.victoriakaygowns.co.uk | [email protected]
60
37
Regulars
12
Industry news
Read our roundup of what’s going on in
the world of bridal.
33
Generation next
We speak to Katherine Allen about her
eponymous family-run boutique, and
the wave of younger retailers making
their way onto the scene.
43
56
79
59
72
74
39
76
56
The glamour girls
We profile Couture House Limited, and
discover how influences as diverse as
the silver screen and Indian embroidery
come together perfectly in the label’s
show-stopping designs.
Harking back
We speak to Regine Ellis about her
family firm Ellis Bridals, in the run-up
to its centenary celebrations.
Winter wonderland
We select some suitable accessories to
create a themed window display.
Wedding fayre play
Our regular columnist, Abigail Neill,
mulls over the benefits of promoting
your business at a wedding fayre.
Selling a business
Business Link expert Peter Mulhall
offers an overview of the process.
Daring to be different
Young British Asian designer Nadia
Yousuf talks to us about her new label,
and pushing the boundaries of bridal.
82
Q&A special
Expert advice on matters ranging from
pension provision to checking over new
supplier contracts.
90
Fit for a princess
Clare Wilson of Anellà Couture tells us
all about the firm’s new Honour Prom
collection, which gives its target market
exactly what they want.
Contents
Features
25
Over the threshold
Retail expert Ana Atherton advises on
holding a successful sale, to maximise
footfall and grow your business.
29
Highland fling
Cater for Scots living in your area with
this tartan selection.
37
Body confident
We speak to top suppliers about how
stocking control lingerie can boost a
retailer’s appeal to brides.
46
Take cover
Are your brides looking to cover up,
whether for warmth or modesty? Here
leading suppliers offer their advice on
choosing a wrap, shrug or jacket.
50
Tales of the unexpected
Sarah Dew explains how business
continuity planning can safeguard
your venture.
53
Buttoned down
Freshen up your menswear section with
these new waistcoat designs.
60
On the side
Asymmetrical bridal gowns are a strong
trend at the moment – here we select
some of the best.
64
Between the lines
Sharp pleated detailing gives these bridal
options an elegant edge.
68
Short & sweet
Brides with a sense of fun will loves
these frocks with higher hemlines.
79
Crowning glories
What’s the next big thing in bridal tiaras
and headbands? We speak to some
leading designers to find out.
Shows
21
BBEH review
We take a retrospective look at this big
bridal event.
ATTIRE 9
Fashion
NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2009
ATTIRE
Bridal
EDITOR
Rebecca Winward
+44 (0)1376 535 609
[email protected]
EDITORIAL ASSISTANT
Rianna Fry
+44 (0)1376 535 613
[email protected]
All the fun of the fair…
team had a wonderful time discussing the very
latest gown designs, gasping over gorgeous
accessories, and coveting a great many elegant
SALES MANAGER
Mark White
+44 (0)1376 514 000
[email protected]
pairs of shoes – although thanks to the miles
walked around the halls, heels were the last thing
on our minds at the end of it all! To find out more
SALES EXECUTIVE
Charlotte Nicholls
+44 (0)1376 535 612
[email protected]
GRAPHIC DESIGNERS
Sarah Barnes
Sophie Farage
Laura Perry
Steve McKea
+44 (0)1376 535 616
about what leading suppliers and retailers had to
say about the show, turn to page 21.
One of the trends which stood out for us was the asymmetrical gown
Average Net
Circulation: 2,721
(01/07/09 to 30/06/09)
– so this issue we’ve got a fabulous round-up of bridal options with this
very chic shape (page 60), plus we’ve also got a stunning selection of
elegant pleated designs (page 64), and some cute shorter-length dresses
for brides looking to show off their lovely legs (page 68). In addition, a
PRODUCTION MANAGER
Stuart Weatherley
+44 (0)1376 535 616
feature on shrugs, wraps and jackets provides an interesting insight into
ADMINISTRATION
Scott Brothwell
+44 (0)1376 514 000
designers talk tiara trends on page 79.
Kline Davis Limited
Broseley House
Newlands Drive
Witham, Essex CM8 2UL
www.attirebridal.com
Industry news page 12
Scottish apparel page 29
Retailer interview page 33
Control lingerie page 37
So how was Harrogate for you? The Attire Bridal
CONTRIBUTOR
Jennifer Kettle
+44 (0)1376 535 613
[email protected]
DESIGN MANAGER
Vicky O’Connor
+44 (0)1376 535 616
[email protected]
Cover image courtesy of
Jonathan James Couture
and Boodles
suppliers’ perspectives on these popular accessories (page 46), while
On the business side of things, we’ve got some advice on running a
successful sale from Retail Trust expert Ana Atherton on page 25, plus
tips on financial and legal matters in our regular Q&A slot (page 82), while
Abigail Neill provides her perspective on attending bridal fayres in her
usual inimitable and engaging style on page 72.
ISSN 1758-0072
Attire Bridal is solely owned,
published and designed by KD
Media Publishing Limited. Whilst
every effort was made to ensure
the information in this magazine
was correct at the time of going
to press, the publishers cannot
accept legal responsibility for
any errors or omissions, nor can
they accept responsibility of the
standing of advertisers nor by
the editorial contributions. The
views expressed do not necessarily
reflect those of the publisher. Attire
Bridal is published six times a year.
Subscription rates for overseas
readers are £40 per annum (incl.
p+p), Cheques should be made out
to KD Media Publishing Limited
and sent to Attire Bridal @ Broseley
House, Newlands Drive, Witham,
Essex CM8 2UL.
Finally, all that remains is for me to wish you a very merry Christmas, and
a happy New Year. See you in 2010!
Rebecca
Rebecca Winward
Editor
ATTIRE 11
INDUSTRY NEWS
Read on for details of the latest developments in the bridal industry…
SARAH HOUSTON REVEALS THE
INSPIRATION BEHIND HER SPRING
2010 COLLECTION
In keeping with her characteristically romantic
design philosophy, Sarah Houston’s latest
collection has been inspired by a combination
of music, dance, French lace and clouds.
“During my recent flight home from England,
I was thinking about new design possibilities.
I was listening to the song ‘L-O-V-E’ by Nat
King Cole, which made me feel upbeat, light
and cheerful. I turned to look out the window,
and the clouds were the big fluffy white kind – it
immediately made me think of the Philadelphia
cream cheese commercials, which made me
laugh, as I thought of brides playfully bouncing
amongst the clouds in billowing layers of
fabric,” said Sarah.
Wanting each dress to exude a mood of
joy and passion, with a hint of playful energy,
Sarah also looked to dance scenes from 1940s
movies dance to help her bring the collection to
life. “The fabrics for this season’s collection had
to be delicate and floating, yet rich in textures.
Having a fondness for French laces, I combined
intricate lightweight Leivers lace mixed with
drapeable silks,” she continued.
To find out more telephone the firm on
+1 800 221 6117, or alternatively visit the
website online at www.sarah-houston.com.
Kelsey Rose presents their
SS10 prom queen
London-based Kelsey Rose has launched a selection of 15 exquisitely
designed dresses for the prom market. Taking inspiration from those that
graced the carpet of Hollywood’s Kodak Theatre, the collection delivers
a spectacle worthy of a thousand flashlights. From floor-sweeping satin
gowns to playful tulle frocks, and with the welcome addition of jersey for
a sumptuous sleek silhouette, the collection offers great style for the next
season’s prom princesses.
Key pieces nod towards the asymmetric trend, and the prom favourite
fishtail, and are available in a fruit cocktail of colours including kiwi,
salsa, lavender and lime – decorated with crafted details such as
embellishments, lace-up backs, twisting and gathering, as well as the
season’s statement bows.
For further details call the firm on +44 (0)20 8888 8833 or alternatively
visit the website online at www.kelseyrose.co.uk.
12 ATTIRE
News & events
Precious Formals launches
new collections with a
celebratory cruise
MADELINE ISAAC-JAMES MOVES INTO
THE MAINSTREAM
Building on the success of its renowned maternity bridal collection and
following superb in-store success at its own boutique, Madeline IsaacJames has launched two new mainstream collections. Silhouette and
Platinum are a highly desirable, eclectic mix of mainstream bridal gowns
that share an air of grace and elegance, with fabrics including fine silks,
sumptuous satins, taffeta, organza, tulle, chiffons and luxurious laces. Key
colours for 2010 include ivory, blush pink and soft cappuccino.
The Silhouette Collection offers brides romantic wedding gowns
that combine classic bridal styling with a modern twist, focusing on
predominantly A-line gowns with strapless bodices embellished with
exquisite detailing. This collection also includes two new 1950s-inspired
shorter length dresses, available in satin or taffeta, providing a fresh and
exciting new look to a young, modern bride.
The Platinum Collection is a superb collection of exquisite wedding
gowns, predominantly in silk, finished to the very highest standard. This
collection is enduring and timeless, with traditional full-skirted Italian silk
taffeta and shantung silk gowns for the princess in every bride; slinky yet
sophisticated gowns in silk charmeuse that exude pure elegance and
understated glamour; as well as gorgeous long fishtail gowns cut beautifully
to give brides that much sought after hourglass figure (with a little help from
in-built corsetry!).
“Our design philosophy is quite simple – to create wedding gowns that
capture the bride’s spirit and imagination – and to provide well-designed,
stylish gowns to brides from just £599 through to £1,699,” said Natalie
Gladman, the company’s designer. “All of our gowns are made with
unsurpassed attention to detail and quality control at all stages, ensuring
that the classic tailoring and special construction of a Madeline Isaac-James
gown fits each bride beautifully.”
To find out more about these new lines call +44 (0)1252 377 725 or
alternatively visit the website at www.madelineisaacjames.com.
American label Precious Formals recently
launched its latest bridal and formalwear at
the luxurious Millennium Plaza Hotel in
New York City – and then took press and top
customers on a luxury cruise to Canada to
celebrate the new collections.
CEO and chief designer Ruby Ashraf, who
made her mark by unleashing striking designs
19 years ago, continues to produce novel
creations. “We want a beautiful comeback with
exquisite modern styles, as the market needs a
different, unique and modern look,” she said.
“Our brand-new collection, Posh Brides, is
poised to knock consumers’ veils off!” Colours
for this season range from classic champagne
and ivory to touches of stunning red, purple,
green and black. Mermaids with trains and Alines with small trains frame the female form,
while materials span a variety of textures:
crinkled organza, plain organza, bridal taffetas
and delicate laces.
In response to buyers’ requests, Precious
Formals is also launching a limited-edition
line, Precious Formals Exclusive. The debut
collection reflects Precious Formals’ trademark
look, but promises consumers the added
cachet of exclusivity, since the line will only
be sold in-store by select retailers, with no
option of online shipping. Retailers benefit by
attracting traffic to their bricks-and-mortar
locations, eliminating price wars and allowing
room for extra mark-up.
For more information, visit the website at
www.preciousformals.com or call the firm on
+44 (0)808 120 2337.
ATTIRE 13 ·
News & events
Thoroughly modern millinery
– with a vintage edge
Inspired by the timeless glamour of a bygone era,
from the dazzling 1920s to the chic and classic
1950s, the Vivien Sheriff 2010 bridal collection
is a step away from the traditional ‘princess’ look
that we’ve seen previously. Echoes of current trends
such as pleating and feathering, mixed with vintage
embellishments, exquisite silks and tulles create
the firm’s signature look – beautifully hand-crafted,
individual pieces that modern brides love to wear.
The 2010 collection includes a range of dramatic
and exciting silhouettes from feather and crystal
tiaras to wide feathered alice bands and petite
veiled pill-boxes, and comprises 23 pieces that not
only celebrate a return to British-made traditional
millinery, but champion the renaissance of vintage
fashion in bridalwear.
For further information more call the company
on +44 (0)1725 512 983 or alternatively visit the
website at www.viviensheriffmillinery.co.uk.
LUXURY SANDALS BRAND SECURES FUNDING IN
DRAGON’S DEN
Designer and Dragon’s Den hopeful Jane Rafter recently secured
£75,000 of investment from top entrepreneurs Theo Paphitis and
James Caan after presenting her luxurious Slinks sandals to the
five ‘Dragons’ on the hit BBC2 show. The investment will enable
the fledgling luxury shoe brand to expand its product range and
distribution.
Slinks are a unique design of sandal featuring a removable ‘upper’,
giving the wearer three totally different luxurious looks in one. Initially
available in black/taupe and cream/dusky pink, the beautiful handcrafted sandals are made of top quality Spanish leather. When in place,
the uppers of the sandals appear fixed and delicate, but they are both
detachable and very strong. The secret is in the three attachment
points – through a simple (patent pending) system of locking beads,
the tops can be changed quickly and easily. Each pair of Jane Rafter’s
Slinks is lovingly presented in its own silk fair trade bag and comes with
two different uppers to start the collection, at an RRP of £70. Additional
uppers are priced at £12 retail.
To find out more call +44 (0)20 3213 0197 or alternatively visit the
company’s website online at www.janerafter.com.
Origa launches stain-repelling bridal shoes
The new Spring/Summer 2010 bridal shoe collection from Origa is designed to
offer the ultimate in comfort and style, and features the revolutionary ion mask™
nano-technology. This groundbreaking hydrophobic coating is applied to the
finished shoe at the end of the production process. A plasma-based technology
that works on a sub-microscopic scale, the finish coats every single fibre in the
shoe with a water-repellant polymer, without altering the look, design or feel of the
shoe – so they won’t be ruined by the British weather.
The firm’s latest collection includes timeless footwear styles such as courts and
strappy sandals, as well as d’Orsay cut, peep-toe and sling-back styles. Available
from February 2010, all designs in the collection come in a selection of widths, D
or EE fitting, and retail prices range from £90 to £130. Key styles for the season
are Aphrodite, a high peep-toe sling-back with a diamante trim and an elegantly
sweeping drape across the toe, Juno, a beautiful sling-back with pin-tucks and
a cute diamante trim, and Hera, an adorable peep-toe d’Orsay cut shoe with
diamante trim.
For more information call +44 (0)1603 493 145 or visit www.origabridal.com.
ATTIRE 15 ·
News & events
ETERNITY GROUP
LABELS TO DRESS
MISS ENGLAND 2009
Syntego launches their 2010 package
for retailers
Fresh Academy
Hannah S and Tiffany Prom
have become the official
dressers for Miss England,
Rachel Christie, the niece
of athletics ace Linford
Christie. Rachel stepped
out in Hannah S and Tiffany
creations to a string of
star-studded events this
autumn, including the
Pink Ribbon® Ball at The
Dorchester, and also for
photo shoots in the Sunday
Times and OK! Magazine.
“This is great PR for our
collections,” said Amanda
Bradwell, Group MD.
“Hannah S offers lovely
short party dresses in
exciting and vibrant colours,
ideal for day and evening
events, going to the races
or a garden party or out and
about on the town, while
Tiffany Prom comprises
more formal ball dresses;
probably more suitable
for the school prom or an
appearance on Strictly
Come Dancing!”
To find out more about
Eternity Group’s labels, call
+44 (0)870 770 7670 or
visit the website online at
www.eternitybridal.co.uk.
Wedding stationery and accessories supplier
Syntego has developed a new retailer’s package
consisting of a wall-mounted display board
that combines style shots of the products with
physical samples in Perspex display pods, and a
clear illustration that shows there are just four
simple steps to stunning personalised stationery.
Also included is a stunning album showcasing all
11 ranges of Syntego’s wedding stationery, plus
a freestanding spinner which displays 132 of the
firm’s top-selling embellishments, accessories and
table decorations. In addition there is a counter-top
buckle tray that contains 16 different designs of the
most popular slider buckles.
Syntego offers its stockists exclusivity in their
local area, and also helps to drive custom to stores
by sending samples directly to brides who enquire
via their website, naming the retailer that is her
nearest premier stockist – as well as passing on
the bride’s details to that same retailer. To find out
more call the company on +44 (0)1435 883 913
and ask for Elliott, or alternatively visit the website
online at www.syntego.co.uk.
One in three organisations axes customer service training to survive the recession
A recent poll by the Institute of Customer Service found 30% of organisations surveyed have cut investment in customer
service training and 21% have laid off customer-facing staff in 2009. However, the Institute’s research shows that
companies with a reputation for service excellence and committed frontline staff have a 24% higher net profit margin
than same-sector rivals who do not enjoy similar standing, and can achieve 71% more profit per employee. The poll was
conducted by the Institute of Customer Service among customer service professionals.
“Investing in your people is a key differentiator in business today,” saud Jo Causon, the Institute’s chief executive. “An
organisation that emphasises customer service, through training and development, goes a long way to retaining staff
– which motivates them to satisfy customers.”
The Institute of Customer Service is the professional body for customer service whose primary purpose is to lead and
raise customer service performance and professionalism. It is the authoritative voice of customer service and a catalyst
for all those whose focus is on the delivery of world-class service experiences. It has over 350 organisational members
and around 7,000 individual members. For more information visit www.instituteofcustomerservice.com.
ATTIRE 17 ·
Allie... Handmade Original Jewellery by
Design has launched a range of Swarovski
crystal ‘barefoot sandals’ that are ideal for
brides planning a beach wedding. Adding a
sheer sparkle to adorn the feet, they are made
using Swarovski AB coated crystals and freshwater potato pearls, with a lobster clasp at the
back of the ankle to secure the anklet.
To find out more call +44 (0)7511 668 048
or visit the website www.alliehandmade
originaljewellery.co.uk.
©Matthew Booth, 2009
Jewellery designer launches
destination wedding line
Saatchi Gallery, Duke of York’s HQ,
Courtesy of the Saatchi Gallery, London
LONDON’S CALLING TO FINEST BRIDALWEAR
DESIGNERS
Ocean Media’s new show, White Gallery, is being billed as the most
prestigious and authoritative event in the bridal buying calendar, with
around 30 of the world’s most highly-respected design houses being
invited to exhibit – and amongst those already confirmed are Ian
Stuart, Stephanie Allin, Stewart Parvin, Ritva Westenius, Filippa Scott,
Alan Hannah, Sassi Holford, Rachel Simpson and Polly Edwards.
Taking place on the 23rd - 25th May 2010 at the Saatchi Gallery in
Chelsea, this elegant show is aimed at the world’s most exclusive
bridal retailers and the international press, who will be able to view the
very best in bridal design, occasionwear, formalwear and accessories.
For more details visit the website www.whitegallery.com, or
alternatively contact Alejandra Campos, Event Director, via email
[email protected].
Frank Usher celebrates
65th anniversary
Started up during wartime austerity in 1944,
Frank Usher enjoyed immediate success as
women loved the idea of buying a couture look
at realistic prices – especially since Christian
Dior had introduced his ‘New Look’. Now,
65 years on, the company offers four brands
– Frank Usher, a label renowned for timeless
elegance, which covers all events from a day
at the races to red carpet dressing; Dusk, a
super-sexy collection that is a favourite with
TV celebrities; Coterie, a couture label that
society ladies turn to for their special events;
and Quintesse, a special occasion range for size
16 plus.
Frank Usher is now sold all over the world as
far as Australia, Israel, America and the Middle
East, and is worn by celebrities including
Barbara Windsor and Kate Garroway – while
Princess Ann can be spotted wearing the firm’s
Coterie label.
For further details call +44 (0)20 7629 9696
or visit the website at www.frankusher.co.uk.
18 ATTIRE
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NEW WEBSITE: www.elizabethdickensveils.co.uk
BBEH review
PRNewsFoto/British Bridal Exhibition Harrogate
bbeh
review
Veromia
+44 (0)20 8554 6436
www.veromia.co.uk
We came, we saw, we enthused about the new designs on show – Attire Bridal chats to visitors and
exhibitors to find out what they thought of September’s British Bridal Exhibition in Harrogate.
After months of careful preparation for the
biggest event in the bridal trade’s calendar, the
British Bridal Exhibition (BBEH), suppliers from
around the world converged on the Harrogate
International Centre in September to unveil more
than 300 collections to the industry’s buyers and
press. Flying in the face of the doom and gloom
evident elsewhere in the fashion retail sector, the
general feeling was that bridalwear is riding out the
economic downturn relatively successfully, owing
to the fact that brides are still intent on having
their dream dress for their big day.
At the exhibition British design was ably
represented by the likes of Royal couturier Stewart
Parvin, Sharon Bowen and Alice Temperley, while
European talent was also greatly in evidence with
labels including Jesus Peiro, Novia d’Art and Ugo
Zaldi amongst others. As well as the established
greats such as Sassi Holford, Ritva Westenius and
Stephanie Allin, new labels launched at the event
included Alan Hannah’s debut ready-to-wear
collection, MiaMia, and the first wholesale line
from Johanna Hehir. The show also had a pleasing
emphasis on new up-and-coming talent, with
a dedicated section housing sample collections
including shoes by designers Julie Mawson and
Freya Rose, jewellery from Hermione and June
Ellen, and gowns by Nadia Yousuf.
On the whole the new bridals being promoted
defied the economic downturn with a glorious shot
of glamour. Sumptuous fabrics, figure-hugging
shapes and sparkling embellishments from sequins
and crystals to beads and embroidery set the tone
for a sophisticated and elegant set of collections.
Notably there were numerous chic asymmetrical
designs on show, while a raft of shorter 1950sinspired frocks offered a flirty alternative, and new
takes on the Grecian goddess style were in glorious
abundance. Not simply limited to a corsage on the
hip, soft fabric flowers were found applied to skirts
and straps, while 1920s-inspired details from pleats
to feathers could be found too.
As brides demand a more individual and
fashion-conscious look, accessories from
headbands to handbags have become big news for
bridal retailers – and BBEH boasted a selection
of offerings from Vivien Sheriff ’s chic millinery
to the sparkle of Halo & Co’s tiaras. Shoes, too,
have taken on a new emphasis since the advent of
higher hemlines, and this was certainly reflected in
the new designs seen at BBEH, with higher heels,
sparkle and decorative clips very much in evidence.
Of course it wasn’t just bridal gowns and
accessories on show. Those in search of
occasionwear – and in particular promwear, one
of the fashion industry’s fastest-growing sectors –
were spoiled for choice. Bold and brilliant colours,
graphic prints and trend-led embellishments
meant that 2010’s prom girls will be stepping out
in showstopping style, while the year’s mothersof-the-bride are also going to be stunningly
attired. Billed as the money-spinner of the year for
retailers, fashionable styles that are anything but
mumsy were snapped up by buyers, with mix and
match collections – such as the latest offering from
Anellà Couture – proving astoundingly popular.
THE EXHIBITORS HAVE THEIR SAY…
“The Eternity Group report their best show
results ever! Sales were dramatically up, and
we had both existing and new customers
buying across 50 new bridal styles for S/S
2010. Art Couture had a fantastic sales boost,
and as a result stockists this season will
benefit from 100% boost in advert and media
spend in major titles, while our new collections
Hannah S, LaBelle and Tiffany Print also
performed well.”
Amanda and Andrew Bradwell, Eternity Group,
www.eternitybridal.co.uk
“It may only be by a small percentage, but
we actually enjoyed our biggest order total for
more than six years at BBEH. It is a wonderfully
organised show attracting most of the UK’s
best buyers, yet somehow the timing is out of
sync with the rest of Europe – and I do feel the
geographics of the show somehow appears to
stretch the customers now. The best sellers for
us were the new tiara and fascinator collection
from Arianna, and our bridesmaid and prom
dresses also sold consistently well for us. I
thought that in the midst of this financial crisis
Linzi Jay enjoyed a relatively good show,
although how much the withdrawal of credit by
banks will affect our debtor collection next year
remains to be seen.”
Neil Flatley, Linzi Jay and Arianna,
www.linzijay.co.uk
ATTIRE 21 ·
“This was my second year at Harrogate and once
again I exhibited in the Designer Hall, on a larger
scale with a bigger stand and twice the number
of gowns. Overall I found the show was a great
success for us, with lots of interest and a number
of new accounts including our first in Ireland. We
saw lots of clients from new shops - either just
opening, or planning to open in the new year
- which is really exciting and shows a definite lift
in the market. I also once again showed in the
Designer Preview show, which was also a great
success, with lots of people attracted to our
stand straight after. I was really pleased with how
things went and will be back again next year.”
Emma Tindley, Emma Tindley Couture,
www.emmatindley.co.uk
“From the Sunday morning to the Tuesday
afternoon the Charlotte Balbier Boutique stand
was busy with new and existing customers
viewing the new Charlotte Balbier 2010 Boutique
Collection. We held four small fashion shows a
day, and they were all standing room only... the
full and romantic style gowns stole the show, big
is definitely back for 2010! The new collection
has a style to suit every bride and personality,
my love of lace and taffeta fabrics teamed with
a pastel colour palette are still as strong but as
always I threw in a few surprises! It was a great
show, and it was lovely to see all my customers
and welcome our new boutiques on board.”
Charlotte Balbier, Charlotte Balbier,
www.charlottebalbier.com
“It was wonderful to see such a great turn out at
BBEH this year, especially with the current difficult
market conditions. We had a fantastic show and
our stand was exceptionally busy with existing
customers and some great new accounts in key
areas in the UK coming on board. Everyone was
commenting on how strong our collection is this
season, so we hope the repeats on the dresses
are just as high.”
Hilary Silvester, Trudy Lee, www.trudylee.co.uk
“No matter what anyone says, every
manufacturer goes to BBEH with anticipation
anxiety and excitement of how the show will go!
So when it goes well you feel exhilarated. The
new special occasionwear collection L o v e
from Benjamin Roberts took the centre stage for
us this year with rave reviews, although Blue by
Enzoani is the fastest-growing bridal collection on
our books, with the others close behind.”
Karen Taft, Benjamin Roberts Limited,
www.benjaminroberts.co.uk
“We were very pleased with the BBEH show in
September. Alan Hannah had a very good show,
and the retailers seemed excited to restock with
lots of new styles after a few months of selling
lots of sample dresses to reduce stock levels.
The Designer Hall is the ideal place to show
couture collections, as it only attracts retailers
who stock top-end labels and this really makes
our job easier. The décor and colour schemes
were tasteful and unobtrusive, with all focus
being on the stands. We launched our new
label MiaMia in the same hall and it too was very
successful. We had around 25 stockists for the
new collection which we were very happy with.”
Alan Hannah, Alan Hannah,
www.alanhannah.co.uk
Madeline Isaac-James
+44 (0)1252 377 725
www.maternityweddingdress.co.uk
22 ATTIRE
THE VISITORS HAVE THEIR SAY…
“BBEH had a great buzz about it this year. We
really enjoyed getting together with our
designers and suppliers, choosing from the new
collections, discussing the ideas we have for our
store, and looking at the latest trends. We also
enjoyed a lovely evening with Linzi Jay at the
awards ceremony. We were really pleased to
see the return of the beautiful ballgown because
a growing number of our clients are looking for
wedding dresses that are unashamedly fairytale.
Charlotte Balbier has a gorgeous collection this
season and we were really spoilt for choice on
her stand. For us it is important that our designers
have a signature style to their gowns but also a
real breadth to the range.
We went to Harrogate looking specifically for a
silk collection and we have taken on the Paloma
Blanca label. The designs are sophisticated and
subtle with a contemporary twist and we are
really looking forward to displaying them in store.
We simply didn’t have time to do everything
we wanted at the show, so we will be back at
BBEH in March – and we are also looking forward
to visiting the London designer show in May.”
Haley Guest, Limelight Occasions,
www.limelightoccasions.co.uk
“We were delighted to find BBEH so busy,
bearing in mind we are in the middle of an
economic recession. This proves that the bridal
industry has remained bouyant in the face of
a financial downturn. The designers had to
really pull out the stops in order to ensure our
continued business, which meant that the
Johanna Hehir
+44 (0)20 7486 2760
www.johanna-hehir.com
collections covered a wide range of trends and
styles. The most notable thing about the catwalks
this season was the great range of designs on
offer. Gone are the days of designers producing
just strapless dresses, and instead collections
were peppered with everything from delicate
beaded asymmetric straps to diaphanous cap
sleeves and ruffle collared silk jackets.
We are very excited about our new prom
range from Phoenix Gowns which will really
complement our existing collection. What
attracted us to this label was the versatility of the
styles as the label offers a service where colour,
detailing, fabric and length can be customised
according to the client’s wishes. This helps
compete with the high street in a time when girls
are more and more aware of fashion.
Whilst it is easy to be wary of any possible
economic downturn, the buzz at BBEH came just
at the right time to reinvigorate both us and our
collection of bridalwear!”
Kate Allen, Katherine Allen,
www.katherine-allen.co.uk
“Unusually I was well organised this year and had
everything planned including appointments with
reps, times for the fashion shows and even a
social agenda - we just managed to squeeze it
all in! Highlights for me included White Rose who
showed some fabulous new designs (at brilliant
prices), and the stunning sparkle of the Miss
Kelly collection by The Group certainly caught
my eye too. In addition to our usual labels we
discovered Eglantine Creations in Hall Q, they
showed an eclectic mix of gorgeous designs
– some reliably commercial and some for the
more adventurous. Style-wise I spotted a lot of
layers and a lot of lace but I shopped for (more)
floaty Grecian, sparkly and full, and found one
or two more silk cute classics! For us it was a
great show, we made some great friends, and
we almost stayed within our shopping budget
despite blowing the social one!”
Abigail Neill, Abigail’s Collection,
www.abigailscollection.co.uk A
Holding a sale
Over the threshold
Retail expert Ana Atherton offers some advice on holding a sale to boost your business…
T
he main point
of running
a sale is to drive
footfall to your
business, and of
course sell stock.
But before you
start a sale, you
need to decide
when to run it
– timings are so
important to its
success, whatever
sector you are in. With bridalwear, it is exactly the
same concept as the more ‘usual’ high street fashion
retailers, so there are different seasons which will
determine when your sale runs. Most bridal shops
will change their stock around two or possibly
three times a year, with different silhouettes, styles
and embellishments coming in, and colour trends
emerging too. So your best bet is to run a winter
sale, around December or January time, and then a
summer sale, some time in July or August.
The length of a sale period is completely
dependent on the individual retailer, but actually
it’s always best to play it by ear to a certain extent.
During the first few days of a sale you will have a
good idea on how it’s going to run – for example, if
you’re inundated with customers early on, then the
sale period may be shorter than expected to ensure
you have enough stock to satisfy demand. The last
thing you want are customers coming along, and
then leaving disappointed with the limited sale
range on offer. Remember, this could also affect
future business since the customer’s first impression
is an important one.
“Your best bet is to run a
winter sale, around December
or January time, and then a
summer sale, some time in
July or August”
You need to gauge how much ‘last season’ stock
you ideally want to sell, and at what price you can
afford to put it on at. Make sure you set your own
budget. The amount of discount also depends on
the items you’re putting on sale, too. For example,
a bridal dress will be much more expensive than
accessories. If you run a 10% discount on a product
like this worth £1,000 then that’s £100 off – a
sizeable amount – whereas 10% off a pair of shoes
originally priced at £50 is £5 off. Decide the
amount of discount you can realistically afford and
that will make your customers feel like they are
getting a decent saving on the RRP. This last point
is absolutely key to securing repeat customers,
especially with brides-to-be. If they feel like they
have a retailer who actually cares about them and
is actively helping them to prepare for their big
day, they are much more likely to make further
purchases, and recommend you to their friends
– which is most definitely a plus point.
Getting the word out about a sale is crucial,
and I can’t emphasise this point enough. The more
people that know, the more chance you will have
lots of customers over the threshold. It’s key you
spread the word in your area – and if you’re a small
retailer remember that your target audience is also
your town or village’s community. Reach out to
local groups, such as churches, newsagents and
the local media. Obviously, larger retailers will be
reaching out on a national level – perhaps through
television advertising and the national media.
Whatever the size of your business, make the most
of your customer databases – email your customers
or send cards in the post, to make sure they are
ATTIRE 25 ·
aware you have a special discount event coming
up. The presentation of your sale items is essential
– you see so many sales that are disorganized,
and the pieces look like they’ve just been thrown
together, which doesn’t present them in the best
light. Brides-to-be want to have the space and time
to look through dresses and accessories easily, so
don’t group all your sale items too closely together
– make sure there is space to accommodate
movement, make sure all the hangers are facing the
same way and aren’t tangled, and don’t over-crowd
your accessories display. All this advice sounds
quite simple, but you’ll find getting the little things
right will make a big difference to your customers’
experience. Also, be sure to clearly label the prices.
A good idea is to group items according to price
or discount, so women can easily find their budget
area without having to ask.
Additionally, make sure you use your window
space – for example, put together four key looks
using the dresses and accessories on sale and place
them on display. All brides will have imagined their
look for the big day, so this is a prime opportunity
to connect with a potential customer’s ‘ideal’.
“Decide the amount of
discount you can realistically
afford and that will make your
customers feel like they are
getting a decent saving on
the RRP”
Your window is also a major marketing
opportunity. Make sure your sale is clearly labelled
to tempt customers in – again, presentation is
crucial with this. Choose your style of sale sign
carefully – in a bridal shop you want to give the
impression of class and sophistication, so select
something elegant. Remember that these sale signs
are part of your brand, so you should see them as
part of your long-term investment in the business.
These can used throughout the year at different sale
periods – customers will also begin to recognize
the sale signs, and this will attract them in again
and again. A
FURTHER INFORMATION
Ana Atherton is Corporate Fundraising Manager
at Retail Trust – the principal charity for the retail
sector. Her career has an extensive background in
fashion and retail, including owning her own retail
business for 14 years. She continues to work closely
with retailers, building strong relationships with
them, and securing fundraising for the charity. To
find out more about Retail Trust visit the website
www.retailtrust.org.uk.
26 ATTIRE
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+44 (0)1706 367 711
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Highland цȨȽȝ
Not just in demand north of the border,
tartan wedding apparel is popular with
Scots all over the British Isles…
ATTIRE 29 ·
Scotweb
+44 (0)131 452 8198
www.scotweb.co.uk
Tartan Spirit by
Joyce Young
+44 (0)20 7224 7888
www.bystorm.co.uk
Kinloch Anderson
+44 (0)131 555 1355
www.kinlochanderson.com
Emma Tindley Couture
+44 (0)1342 321 514
www.emmatindley.co.uk
Irina Couture Designs
+44 (0)1604 716 330
www.irinacouture.co.uk
30 ATTIRE
Trudy Lee
Bridal Dress Collection
www.trudylee.co.uk
email: [email protected]
tel: 01707 643633
ATTENTION
ALL BRIDAL
SHOPS
TURN YOUR Ex SAMPLE AND
DISCONTINUED DRESSES INTO CASH
THE BRIDAL SALE SHOP
Will buy all discontinued or sample
dresses. The dresses must be
• Recent styles
• No more than 3 years old
• Clean with no rips or tears
Please e-mail details of the dresses you wish to sell
Make • Style • Colour(s) • Size
[email protected]
t: 01452 520 643
m: 07944 964261
Retailer interview
Generation next
We speak to Katherine Allen about
her eponymous boutique, and her
fresh, young approach to bridal retail
ATTIRE 33 ·
How did you choose the location of your store?
This was dictated somewhat by the business I was
buying, but in fact the shop’s location was very
central to my decision to go for it. Our premises
are in a fantastic Victorian school building, with
amazing light and these huge windows, plus it’s
got great frontage. That to me was critical to the
business succeeding, because it was such a fantastic
showcase for the gowns. I actually negotiated the
lease before I committed to buying the stock, to
make sure I could secure that particular space.
Tell me a little about your background. What
prompted you to open a bridal boutique?
My background’s in the catering and events sector.
I moved to Banbury from London to be with
my fiancé, and after a couple of dead-end jobs I
decided I really wanted to run my own business.
Whilst shopping for wedding shoes, I went into
a bridal shop and got chatting to the owner who
suggested I should come back the following week
as they had a closing down sale on, and when
I got home I mentioned this to my fiancé, who
suggested I think about buying the business. So
I contacted the owner, and five weeks later I was
trading. It turned out to be a very expensive pair
of shoes, as my husband likes to remind me! My
sister has since joined me in running the business,
and she’s been integral to its success – as has my
mother, who supports us both enormously.
34 ATTIRE
How would you describe your current in-store
bridal collection?
When I bought the stock it was looking pretty
tired, and the previous owner didn’t have a great
range of designers, so over the last two years we’ve
really worked hard to achieve a strong collection.
It has taken a while because obviously being new
“We are now seeing more
young people starting bridal
businesses, but we are still in
the minority! I think it’s exciting
to be part of the change, and
I think people of our age who
have recently got married
have a lot to offer”
Retailer interview
fabulous, and to buy it, but for it not to fit with
your clientele at all. At the end of the day your
margins have got to work, and if you’re spending
money on dresses that don’t suit your customers
then your business is going to suffer. We had to
learn that the hard way!
to the business I didn’t want to just choose things
ad hoc, hoping they’d work. I wanted to test the
water and see what Banbury wanted. We’ve now
got everything from elegant and sophisticated all
the way to flirtatious and exciting. We provide
beautifully made gowns, as we don’t want to
compromise our above-standard approach to
service by providing dresses that aren’t of an equal
footing. I don’t think cheaper lines lend themselves
very well to excellence in other areas; you get them
out of the door quickly, and that’s all people expect.
Which designers do you stock and why?
We carry Maggie Sottero because the label is
great for those flirtatious, extravagant dresses. Our
best seller is a gown called Fiorenza, and it’s just
fabulous – it’s got a lovely slightly dropped waist
with these big flowers on, and it always surprises
people. I think that’s the thing about the Maggie
brand, dresses which may seem over-the-top on
the hanger look just right when they’re actually on.
I got married in a Benjamin Roberts gown, so we
had to get that label in! They fulfill our requirement
for the stunning figure-hugging dresses in silk.
We also stock Justin Alexander for their fabulous
big-skirted fairytale dresses with wonderful corsets.
They’re also great for the lovely little extras you get
like matching cravats and little jackets. Our fourth
designer is Marylise, for brides who want a more
understated look – they’re lovely fitting simple
gowns which can be accessorised up if the bride
wants. Finally, we stock beautiful Amanda Wyatt
dresses. She provides the really feminine styles,
with floral embroidery and delicate beadwork.
What do you enjoy most about your role and the
bridal business in general?
I love being my own boss! As far as the bridal
industry goes, I didn’t know much at the start and
although I had been through the system as a bride,
I hadn’t even got married at that point. What I’d
experienced as a customer were poor standards of
service and little attention to detail, and I knew I
could offer something exceptional in comparison.
Our feedback is really good, brides say how much
we pay attention to what they want, and that we
really make an effort to go the extra mile rather
than just trying to flog them a dress. I think
because we’re all younger – my sister and I are
both in our early thirties, and our Saturday girl is
in her early twenties – we provide a fresh attitude
to the industry. We are now seeing more young
people starting bridal businesses, but we are still in
the minority! I think it’s exciting to be part of the
change, and I think people of our age who have
recently got married have a lot to offer.
Do you hold any events?
We don’t currently, although it’s something we’re
looking at doing. We’re thinking of holding some
charity events in the shop, such as coffee mornings,
just to open up the shop to the wider circle. By
inviting people in who wouldn’t otherwise come
into a bridal shop, we can actually reach more
brides by word of mouth. We’re also planning on
doing a couple of evening events in the New Year
where we keep the shop open later, and invite
potential brides and the press to view the new
season’s collection.
How would you like to see your business develop
in the next five years?
I think as we’re a young business we need to be
relatively cautious, we are in difficult times after
all. We want to build on what we’ve already
achieved over the last two years and concentrate
on strengthening our brand. When we’re confident
what we’ve done in Banbury is right, we would
then consider opening another shop. But we
wouldn’t want to do that before we know we’ve got
the formula right. I don’t think there’s any harm in
aiming high, but I do think you need to be cautious
at the beginning to make sure you don’t get there
before you’re ready. A
What do you feel makes your store unique and
how do you self-promote?
Service, service, service! Also, I think the fact that
we’re a young team makes us unique in our area.
Our windows are really great for promoting our
collection, as we’re situated on a one-way system in
Banbury which means a lot of traffic drives past!
Because of this it’s really important to us that our
windows always look great. We find word of mouth
works brilliantly well for us, so the excellent service
we provide is self-promoting.
How often do you update your window display?
The bridal dresses get updated weekly, and we
change the theme once a month. Themes range
from colours and seasons to eras and events.
We recently did a destination weddings display,
complete with swathes of fabric at the bottom to
create a sea effect. We’re pretty inventive with how
we present our dresses – because the windows are
so big, you can’t just do a ‘here’s a dress’ display.
What do you believe is the key to running a
successful bridal retail business?
Service of course! You also need to be up on your
trends, but not let that overshadow your knowledge
of your own market. It’s easy to see something
coming through on the catwalk that you think is
Further information
Katherine Allen is located at Suite 1,
Borough House, Marlborough Road,
Banbury, Oxfordshire OX16 5TH.
Telephone: +44 (0)1295 271 633
Website: www.katherine-allen.co.uk
ATTIRE 35
Jupon
Manufacturers & suppliers of distinctive petticoats, carnival
lingerie, garters, stockings, hair crystals, sticky straps, gloves
and body shapers for Brides, Bridesmaids & Evening Gowns
to create a Desirable & Enhancing Silhouette.
To view our Mother of the Bride collection
launched at the BBEH with phenomenal
success please call our agent, details below.
A stunning and inspirational collection of
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For more information please contact Clare on 01954 263030
Email [email protected] or call our
UK sales agent Philip Swift 0798 487 6330
t: 01753 622922 | f: +44 (0) 1753 622933
[email protected] | www.jupon.com
Jupon Limited, Unit D2, Fairacres Industrial Estate,
Dedworth Road, Windsor, Berkshire, SL4 4LE
Control lingerie
Body
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REBECCA PLUMMERNOY, ASSISTANT DESIGNER,
ETERNAL SPIRITS
+44 (0)115 947 0205
www.eternalspirits.com
How can retailers benefit from stocking control lingerie lines?
It helps achieve the optimum shape under the wedding dress,
making the customer more confident in their purchase. You are
offering your customers an additional service that can be very
difficult to source on the high street. We have collaborated with
many retail outlets and boutiques to offer bespoke bridal corsetry
suitable for wearing under particular dresses, and we have found
this to be very successful.
Are there any types of gown not suitable for such undergarments?
No, at Eternal Spirits we design and create pieces to suit any
dress style, from a slender-fitting Jenny Packham style, to a more
traditional dress shape. Even a perfect size 10 needs an element
of control to get the most from their dress. Well-structured and
styled corsetry will leave the wearer feeling great, and creates a
natural shape for the dress to sit over.
What retailer support does your firm offer?
We offer a full bespoke corsetry service to our retail stockists,
which means we can work around any specific needs. We also
offer a range of other controlwear including control lingerie and
torselettes, which can all be ordered in a variety of styles, sizes,
fabrics and colours. Some customers want their undergarments to
be purely functionally, whereas some love to adapt their control
garment into their honeymoon lingerie!
We have worked very closely with many leading boutiques to
offer in-house training to staff, to ensure they too are confident in
selling our corsetry products. Our Design Director Susi Henson
has also offered her own expert services, basing herself in-store
for a day to work with retail customers and demonstrate to staff
techniques in selling corsets.
What advice should retailers offer brides-to-be looking for the
slimming effect achieved by control lingerie?
Retailers should suggest that brides try all their options first, then
make a purchase based on which item gives them their desired
silhouette. We always remind brides that they should be sure
the garment is something they would feel comfortable in for the
entirety of their special day – we design our corsetry pieces using
traditional Victorian pattern cutting and production methods, so
they are designed to be worn throughout the day. We would also
advise trial wearing, before the big day, so the bride can get used to
her new sculpted silhouette.
ATTIRE 37 ·
MICHAEL HAMMOND, OWNER, AXFORDS
+44 (0)1273 327 944
www.axfords.com
How can bridal retailers benefit from stocking control lingerie
lines?
It means they can provide a one-stop shop to answer their
customers’ tricky questions on how to get their dream figure on
their special day; brides want their problems solved and not to have
to go elsewhere for answers and accessories. A corset helps give the
romantic hourglass shape many brides have in mind.
It also increases the range of styles retailers can offer to a
particular client, and enables them to shape their clients’ figures
to fit into dresses they otherwise could not wear. Of course, the
bride can also try on a corset with a dress to make sure they work
together, and colour matching can be done there and then too.
Are there any types of bridal gown not suitable for such
undergarments?
Yes, there are a couple. I wouldn’t recommend a corset to be
teamed with a dress that features a boned, corset-style bodice,
which provides its own figure control, or a very tight-fitting dress
in light material, as the corset bones might show through.
Most importantly we offer a very fast turnaround, as we carry large
stocks and usually send orders out within one to two working
days. We also provide advice on fitting corsets, and we also give
our clients images on CD and free catalogues, plus short films
that they can show their customers. In addition to this, we have no
minimum order.
What advice should retailers offer brides-to-be looking for the
slimming effect achieved by control lingerie?
Retailers should encourage brides to plan their whole outfit to
work together, and allow themselves time for fitting in advance but also allow for any weight loss, as many brides-to-be embark on
diets. Most importantly, brides should ensure they are comfortable,
since they will have to wear their corset all day, and be able to eat,
drink and dance, so they shouldn’t be laced in too tightly! Worn
sensibly, corsets can actually help to support the bride during the
day, holding them elegantly upright.
38 ATTIRE
CORINA VOLLER, DESIGNER, VOLLERS CORSETS
+44 (0)23 9266 0150
www.vollers-corsets.com
How can bridal retailers benefit from stocking control lingerie lines?
Corsets are about comfortable body control, and they can make you feel and look
sexy and elegant – of course this appeals to brides, who are looking to achieve that
classic hourglass effect for their big day. We find we have a lot of brides choosing our
steel-boned, back-laced designs because they give a lot more control than the standard
wedding dress, which means it makes sense for retailers to offer this option. You’ll also
find that having a corset on display will promote conversation in the shop, since people
are always interested and intrigued by them. In addition, corsets are constantly in the
press, being worn by celebrities, so this helps raise their profile and inspire brides too.
Are there any types of bridal gown not suitable for such undergarments?
No, not really. We offer made-to-measure corsets which means we can cut the design
to suit the shape of the dress. For example, if a retailer has a client with a gown that’s
particularly low at the back, we can cut the corset as low as it needs to be – and we
can also make the corset in the same fabric as the dress itself, so the bride can be
beautifully co-ordinated.
We advise all our retailers on all the information they need to ask their clients, and
we send each corset in for a fitting, so any necessary alterations can be made. We
recommend that retailers stock two or three designs, across two or three sizes, because
buying a corset is a bit like buying a pair of jeans, you’ve got to find a shape that suits
you and every style varies slightly. Once the shape has been found, the measurements
may need adjusting, which is where the made-to-measure form comes in. Retailers
also receive brochures to show brides, and a disc of images that they can use on their
websites or in advertising.
What advice should retailers offer brides-to-be looking for the slimming effect
achieved by control lingerie?
We always suggest that customers should try the corset on in a retail environment
where there are people who can help – which is much better than trying to do it at
home. We always advise that brides should shop early, too. A corset is like a good pair
of shoes, it will shape itself to your body, so it needs to be worn in well in advance of
the big day. Usually when a client gets used to wearing their corset, and see the effect
it has on their figure, they want it to be even tighter! Of course you can adjust it with
the lacing, but we do offer an adjustment service too.
Control lingerie
MICHELLE GREEN, MARKETING AND COMMERCIAL
MANAGER, LF INTIMATES
+44 (0)115 983 6000
www.charnos.co.uk
Offering the bride the complete package in your store will not only ease
the stress on the bride to find the perfect co-ordinating lingerie, without
having to guess how it will look under the dress (she can try it on there and
then!), it will also promote cross-selling in store, and increase the saleability
of both the dress and the lingerie. How many brides have the luxury of
trying on their bridal lingerie underneath the actual dress to get the perfect
combination? Not enough, so let’s help them!
There’s lingerie out there for every shape and size of bride, and for every
type of gown. Different dresses have different requirements though, for any
fine fabrics such as silk, boned corsetry or heavy fabrics will show through
so make sure you have seamless controlwear on offer that will give a much
more streamlined look. Charnos Coco in Ivory jacquard satin offers 1950s
inspired garments that will give her a great silhouette, whilst the brand’s
Superfit multiway is a fantastically popular bra with smooth lines that will
give great support on the big day.
For the majority of gowns and fabric options, the Lepel Bouquet range in
stretch satin, decorated with stunning embroidery, is perfect. Available in all
the key pieces – including basque, suspender with garter and strapless bra at very affordable prices, Bouquet offers the complete package. For that extra
touch of luxury, look no further than the Charnos Belle range. In sumptuous
matte satin with exquisite embroidery this collection promises to make
every bride feel extra special and again is available in all key pieces including
strapless bra, basque and suspender.
With strong brand heritage in Charnos and the popularity of Lepel, our
ranges will help drive footfall as consumers know and trust the brands.
We also have a wealth of experience and expertise that we can offer to the
retailer, such as advice on fitting and presentation, along with a dedicated
sales and customer service team.
What advice should retailers offer brides-to-be looking for the slimming
effect achieved by control lingerie?
By wearing the correct lingerie the bride will feel so much more confident
and beautiful on the day. Not only will she have a great silhouette, she can
rest assured that as well as being fully supported, she will look beautiful
underneath the dress too!
AMANDA JOYNT, HEAD OF SALES AND MARKETING,
SILHOUETTE LINGERIE LTD
+44 (0)161 445 5863
www.silhouette.org.uk
It is a great add-on to sales and of course there’s the repeat sales due to
wear and tear, since beautiful lingerie can be worn every day, not just on a
wedding day. Offer advice on the right slimming designs and the customer
will love you forever for helping them achieve that perfect hourglass – and
remember, if they’re happy they will recommend you!
No, I don’t think so. Any outfit needs well-fitting lingerie as this can
make or break the effect. In fact, I would say it makes sense to buy the
undergarment first, as this is the foundation of the overall look.
We offer same day shipping and no minimum order, plus we pride
ourselves on customer service – including offering fitting advice to our
retailers. Representative appointments are always available to view our
collections of excellent quality garments, which are available in all sizes at a
reasonable price, with a fit that is second to none.
We always recommend that retailers buy from a long-standing, reputable
branded supplier and ask to see a representative to explain the differences
in styles depending on the market they are aiming for, as this will mean
they get the correct information to pass on. Of course, it is imperative that
a bride has her bridal lingerie in time for the dress fittings, as this will
dictate the alterations.
ATTIRE 39 ·
FIONA PRENTICE, PR & DISTRIBUTION MANAGER, INTIMATES LINGERIE
+44 (0)1580 241 111
www.spanx.com
We constantly get calls from bridalwear retailers asking to stock Spanx, as they are always having
to send their customers to other stores to get them! Bridalwear and controlwear make a perfect
combination, and brides will feel even more fantastic in their dresses.
No. Spanx has a product for every bridal gown in every fabric! High-waisted products such as the
Slim Cognito Mid Thigh Shaping Bodysuit are perfect for eliminating any lines under empire
dresses, while lower-waisted controllers such as Power Panties are great for ball gown styles. Spanx
has a range of hosiery and lingerie, so there is something for everyone. Some of our products even
have a cotton double gusset which opens to make life easier when nature calls – brilliant for brides.
We pass our expert knowledge on by offering staff training to all our customers. We also ensure
customers are given point of sale displays and customer support. We even have a bridalwear guide to
‘Looking Best in Your Dress’.
What advice should retailers offer brides-to-be looking for the slimming effect achieved by control
lingerie?
The first thing to understand is whether the bride is looking for a smoothing undergarment or
something that really slims and shapes. Smoothing products eliminate VPL and ensure the fabric
of the dress looks as good as it can, while shapers are brilliant for brides wanting to drop a dress
size. From there the retailer can help the bride-to-be to choose the best product for them.
RODRIGO CANO, GENERAL MANAGER,
JULIE FRANCE BODY SHAPERS
+44 (0)20 8908 2690
www.benmarkltd.com
Bridal retailers can benefit tremendously by stocking Julie France Body
Shapers. These body shapers can slim the bride from about a half size to a
whole size. This will help retailers to demonstrate and sell those stunning yet
difficult-to-fit gowns.
Julie France has a body shaper that will work under almost any bridal gown,
depending on what the bride requires for support. Under a strapless dress,
they simply choose a piece without straps, like the strapless dress shaper or
the high waist boxer shaper. For a dress with a low back, they can choose the
regular boxer shaper to offer slimming and shaping to the lower tummy, hip,
and upper thigh areas. The wide range of shapers allows each bride to choose
the support she wants and needs.
On top of offering superior customer service and the highest quality body
shapers, we offer marketing materials to all customers. Ranging from printed
posters, catalogues and flyers, to internet- and print-ready photographs,
theses tools will help the retailer promote the products and grow their sales.
Retailers should remind their brides that because of the uniquely woven
panels, Julie France Body Shapers offers perfect slimming support and
camouflages all imperfections. This ensures that the bride will be brimming
with confidence on her big day, and of course any day after. A
40 ATTIRE
BRIDAL CONSULTANCY
SERVICE:
‘The only complete consultancy service
for the industry’
Jane Watson has over 30 years experience within
the Industry Offering help with the following:
• Starting a Bridal Business?
“Possibly all you ever need to know about the Industry”
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+RZWRSUHSDUHD)LQDQFLDO6WDWHPHQWDQGVHWVDOHVWDUJHWV
• Staff training
5HWDLOVWDWLRQHU\ZLWKWULHGDQGWHVWHGWHUPVDQGFRQGLWLRQV
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BRIDAL BUSINESS FOR SALE OR TO BUY
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purchasing an existing Bridal Business?
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Contact us now P: 01256 766744
BEAUTIFUL WEDDING DRESS BOXES
& TRAVELLING ABROAD BOXES
Following the extremely successful launch of our
collections at BBEH, we would like to thank our existing
and new stockists for their continued support, and we
look forward to working with you in 2010!
• Adorable Boxes that every bride will want to keep her
dress in after the wedding.
• Unrivalled quality
• Protect, preserve, prevent yellowing (pH neutral).*
• Handmade in the UK for 20 years
• Add prestige to your shop and customer services.
• Excellent trade discounts.
• Travel boxes for weddings abroad- very popular!
* If you supply gowns in plastic covers they are not suitable for
long-term storage and correct storage advice to brides should be offered.
www.madelineisaacjames.com
T: +44(0)1252 377725
E: [email protected]
For full colour brochure and prices
Tel: (01306) 740193 The Empty Box Company, Wescott, Surrey RH4 3LW
www.emptybox.co.uk
Profile
The glamour girls
We speak to Sharon Bowen of Couture House Limited about
her design inspiration, the impact of the current market forces,
and her partnership with Rosie Panesar.
Can you tell us a little about your background.
What prompted you to set up Couture House
Limited?
I was born in Congleton, Cheshire, the heart of
Britain’s silk and garment manufacturing industry,
and my mother worked as a sample seamstress
creating eveningwear for royalty – so I grew up
watching her make the most fabulous gowns.
I started out as a child, copying her creations
in miniature for my Sindy dolls, and it seemed
natural for me to go on to study fashion design
and illustration. I gained my BA Honours degree
at Bristol Polytechnic, then I went off to Paris to
work as a couturier, first with Francois Lesage,
then Hubert Aimetti, and moving on to design
for various fashion houses including Chloe and
Dior. Aged 21 I noticed a gap in the market, and
so set up my own label, Sharon Bowen Couture,
designing elegant gowns. Later, when I returned to
the UK, I began to create couture wedding dresses.
I joined forces with Rosie more recently, to form
Couture House Limited, and I think her 15 years
in the Asian wedding industry and her feel for
the most immaculate and intricate beadwork is
the perfect foil for my Paris-based training, while
her accomplished business and management skills
allow me to focus on the creative side. Together
we create couture gowns that are cut to perfection,
and which offer both a maturity of style and daring
design, leading trends rather than following them.
How would you describe your latest bridal
collection?
It’s sexy and vampish, with a hint of romance.
Our Beverley Hills collection features gowns that
are very slinky and ‘red carpet’, offering brides an
elegant and glamorous look with lots of jewelled
embellishment. By contrast our English Romantics
collection has a soft and pretty feel, with fabrics
such as organza and tulle, and lots of flowers.
Where do you find your inspiration for your
designs?
I draw a lot of inspiration from the silver screen, so
anything from the black and white silent movies
of the 1930s through to the films of the ‘40s and
‘50s - Cat On a Hot Tin Roof, Brief Encounter,
Breakfast at Tiffanys… that sort of thing. I also love
anything to do with Marie Antoinette and that
period of design. But really I find inspiration from
everywhere, I’m always having my imagination
fired by what I see, for example my recent trip to
India led to certain new designs and the beadwork
on them. I think as a designer you always have to
keep your eyes open, you’d be surprised what goes
into the subconscious!
Which fabrics do you enjoy working with most
and why?
I really enjoy working with all types of satin,
because I just love the sheen of it. I like working
with heavy duchess satin, which is used for the
stiffer dresses in our English Romantics collection,
because I like how regal it is. But I also love the
lighter satins, right down to sleeker designs in soft
and fluid slipper satin. I like anything with a little
bit of a shine to it because it’s very glamorous.
Which are your best-selling gowns?
From our Beverley Hills collection it would be
Dixie Bell, a very fluid gown that is covered in
sequins. It particularly appeals to brides looking
for an elegant and sexy gown, everybody loves it,
since the shape is good for mature ladies as well as
younger brides.
At the moment within English Romantics the
best seller would be Walk in the Park, a duchess
satin dress with a heavily pleated bodice with
a centred jewel, and a big tulle skirt. It has a
beautiful shape, and its boned bodice gives a waist
to anybody and everybody, so it’s ideal for any bride
who wants to achieve that classic hourglass. It may
be very traditional, but it’s also sexy.
If you could design a bridal gown for anyone in
the public eye, who would it be and why?
I think there’s various different people I’d love to
design for, but if I had to pick one it would have
to be Eva Green. She’s very tall and elegant, but
also quite gothic and quirky, and of course she’s
extremely sexy. I’d envisage her in one of our
Beverley Hills gowns, maybe Love on the Rocks,
which is a slinky backless gown that I think would
be perfect for her!
ATTIRE 43 ·
How many stockists do you have in the UK, and
is this stockist base something you plan to grow?
We currently have 23 stockists, and yes we’re
certainly looking to build on this! We are
advertising and also doing designer days to
promote the new collection. Since there’s a
delay between these designs being launched and
the retailers actually receiving the stock, we’re
supplying all our stockists with a style summary
book to show brides, so they don’t miss out on
potential sales.
What promotional activity do you have planned
in order to support your stockists?
Our designer days are the main thing, and we’ve
found they work really well - for example at the
latest one we had 13 appointments, and eight of
those brides placed an order. We have a policy of
attending each designer day ourselves, we don’t just
send extra stock. This means when the brides come
in to see the gowns they get to speak to me in
person, and I also create a unique sketch for each
one to keep, as a personalized reminder of the day.
How do you view the current market for
bridalwear and what trends do you see emerging
over the coming months?
I think we’re heading back towards the way things
were about 15 years ago, because originally when I
started a lot of brides were ordering in January and
February for a summer wedding. Then everybody
started getting earlier and earlier, so in the end
44 ATTIRE
shops were selling the new season’s gowns in the
September before.
We’re now finding that people are not
committing too early, and are being more cautious
about handing over their money. There are still
the big spenders out there, but on the whole
I think the average price of a wedding dress
is coming down. We’ve catered to this market
change by offering the shorter length gowns, and
of course the slimmer silhouettes in the Beverley
Hills collection. This collection was consciously
developed to fit into the average spend of £1,100£1,500, in comparison to the more usual price
point of our gowns, which is £1,800-£2,000. I
think this strategy has certainly reaped rewards for
us, as the collection is doing so well.
I’ve also noticed there are more mature brides
out there, and they are going for the heavily beaded
gowns. I think trends-wise boho chic is coming
to the fore, with a retro ‘70s hippyish edge to it. I
don’t really know quite how its going to work yet,
but we have given lip service to it with a couple of
gowns, Gypsy and Rhapsody, so we’ll see how that
goes over the next few months!
How are you being affected by the current
economic climate, if at all, and what steps are you
taking to minimise its impact?
We’ve not really being affected, I think because of
the way we’ve responded to the changing market
with our designs. It has affected the boutiques
buying, as they’re sticking with their existing
designers rather than investing in new brands. The
buyers at Harrogate seemed to be battening down
the hatches a little bit, which I think is a wise
approach given the climate currently. But come
spring I think it’ll be time to invest in new things
so they don’t get left behind - fashion moves so
quickly, they’ll need to keep up!
What can we expect from Couture House
Limited over the coming year?
We’ll be continuing to offer our stunning couture
bridal gowns in market-beating time, in order to
cater for the trend for brides ordering later than
in previous years. Our lead time is 6-8 weeks,
in contrast to the more usual four months that
many labels require, thanks to the fact that we
manufacture at our own factory in the UK. We’re
also going to be promoting our new mother-ofthe-bride collection, Monaco. We’ll be introducing
it at Harrogate in March, and also at the fashion
trade fairs, such as Pure. A
Further information
To find out more about Couture House
Limited, call +44 (0)1260 271 269 or visit the
website www.sharonbowencouture.com.
Take cover
Whether covering up for warmth or modesty, more and more
brides are choosing a shrug, wrap or jacket to complement their
gown – we speak to some leading suppliers to find out more…
ELAINE CARTER, DESIGNER,
SASSO BRIDE
+44 (0)113 262 1724
www.sassobride.com
How would you describe your current collection
of shrugs, jackets and wraps?
We have a classic collection of marabou
shrugs, wraps and stoles – favourites like the
Streisand stole and the Minnelli shrug in soft
marabou are available in soft subtle shades from
Moss Green and Lilac Mist, as well as the more
conventional Ivory, plus the new Vintage Cream
colour. Introduced last season were the Alaska
long ostrich feather jacket in Champagne, which
is a little bit edgy, and the Barcelona jacket
with its two-tone ostrich feather as well as the
Valencia, which is a long stole with tails that is
very glamorous and vintage. One of my favourites
is the New York, a stripped ostrich and marabou
combination feather stole, which can be seen on
the front cover of our 2009 brochure.
What sort of bride would choose your creations?
Our brides like to team our designs with gowns by
Jenny Packham and Ian Stuart, as well as ballerinalength styles from labels such as Blue.
Which is your favourite design and why?
Being a Gemini, I can’t choose one of anything!
Of all the collection, I love the New York and the
Alaska, and would wear the one which felt more
‘me’ on the day!
Which is your best-selling design, and why do
you think this is?
My best-selling garment is the Minnelli in Ivory.
It suits everyone, and it’s so comfortable a bride
can put it on and forget about it. The fit is perfect,
and it comes in many subtle shades so is ideal for
the bridesmaids too if the bride wants their look to
colour coordinate.
Do you think there has been an increase in
demand for these garments in recent times?
I’ve found that demand for the marabou has
increased gradually over the last couple of years,
this year more than ever, thanks to the changing
styles in bridal gowns. The accessorising side of
my business has increased too, lots of silk flowers
for the hair, blush veils on combs with flowers and
sparkle, and skull caps in lace with short veils and
46 ATTIRE
flowers. Gloves have also come into their own,
from the Hepburn style with a feature bow on the
cuff, to long ruched satin fingerless options.
What are the considerations to bear in mind
when teaming a dress with a shrug, jacket or
wrap?
The dress is always the most important thing,
the shrug or stole should just enhance its stylish
features. Think of the bodice line – this has to
be shown – and whether the gown is strappy or
strapless a stole looks fabulous with the ties just
fastened on the shoulder.
What are your future trend predictions for these
cover-ups?
I think brides will become more daring in their
choices, with longer feathers and colours becoming
popular, as I believe dresses will have simpler,
more classic lines, or a retro feel. I will be adding
to my collection in March, bringing in some new
feathers and shapes, but I think one to watch from
my current range is the little Alexi cap sleeved
edge-to-edge jacket in the new Vintage Cream
colourway, loved by everyone at Harrogate.
PAUL O’DONOHUE, MANAGING
DIRECTOR, JOHANNA HEHIR
+44 (0) 020 7486 2760
www.johanna-hehir.com
How would you describe your current
collection of shrugs, jackets and wraps?
We have a large selection of designs on
offer, from simple organza shrugs and little
intricate French lace numbers to fake fur
wraps. We find that even though many brides
may choose a strapless dress, they often want
some sort of covering for their shoulders.
What sort of bride would choose your
creations?
Many brides are either uncomfortable with
strapless dresses and will choose a shrug or
wrap for modesty in church, or to keep them
warm if they are having a winter wedding.
Our cap sleeve shrugs are popular as they
cover the shoulders, but are more modern
than the three-quarter length alternatives.
Which is your best-selling design, and why
do you think this is?
Our RG French lace and Cornelli lace cap
sleeve shrugs are the best sellers, and I think
this is because they add an extra romantic
detail to otherwise unembellished dresses.
We have seen an increase in demand in recent
times – and we have found many older brides
prefer to cover their upper arms.
wrap?
Obviously the neckline on the dress must
work with whatever cover-up design the bride
chooses. For this reason we find that strapless
necklines work best with shrugs, although
halternecks can also work well.
What are your future trend predictions for
these cover-ups?
We think shrugs will always be popular,
and fully expect the variety to continue to
increase going forward into next season.
Bridal
Formalwear
fashion
HELEN GEORGE, CUSTOMER
SERVICES MANAGER, JUSTIN
ALEXANDER
+44 (0)1908 615 599
www.justinalexanderbridal.com
How would you describe your current collection
of shrugs, jackets and wraps?
We’ve got a selection of all three types of designs
in the most luxurious fabrics – silks and silk satin,
as well as tulle – and they’re all made to match
specific gowns, not sold separately.
AMANDA WYATT, DESIGNER,
AMANDA WYATT
+44 (0)1625 522 344
www.amandawyatt.com
How would you describe your current
collection of shrugs, jackets and wraps?
The 2010 collection took me on a very different
journey compared with previous years. I had the
chance to spend more time researching unique
fabrics and finding new intricate beading to
enhance my designs, and this is evident in all
12 styles of jackets, wraps and ponchos. As a
woman I always design for the female form, and
having listened to both my brides and retailers
I have created key pieces in chiffon, organza,
satin and lace, plus fur-trimmed designs, to both
match and complement – ensuring the bride
completes the look she has chosen for her big
day, wherever she is in the world.
What sort of bride would choose your
creations?
Someone who is looking for a range of
accessories which has the variety of designs she
needs, all within a realistic price range. Brides
choose jackets and wraps for many reasons –
weather, religious reasons or simply the fact they
are not confident about showing off their arms.
As with our gowns, the jackets are available in
sizes 8 – 30, and we suggest to all our retailers
that they should carry a variety of sizes to ensure
that every bride has the right fit when she is
buying the dress of her dreams.
I love the Aspen jacket because it’s fun and sassy.
you think this is?
The Millie jacket has been one of our bestselling designs made of lace, it’s short sleeved
and really flatters the body. However we also
have a chiffon poncho, which is easy to slip on
and off, and is proving really popular.
In my 15 years in the industry we have definitely
seen an increase in the popularity of Christmas
weddings, and now there isn’t anything stopping
someone getting married all year round. So yes,
we have definitely seen an increase in demand.
wrap?
You’re looking to complement the gown, so if
the dress is detailed keep the jacket simple or
vice versa.
What are your future trend predictions for
these cover-ups?
I would suggest that this sort of garment will
continue to be popular, and when selling gowns
retailers will also think more about suggesting
the bride considers complementary cover-up
options, which of course has a positive impact
on sales too.
What sort of bride would choose your creations?
She’s the type of girl more likely to go dress
shopping with her best friend than her mother,
and she’s certainly looking for something that’s
influenced by fashion. I would say she’s slightly
older, maybe over 25, as the dresses are meant to
be worn (not the other way around), and so require
the sort of confidence that comes with maturity.
My favourite Justin Alexander gown is the little
short 1950s dress, which isn’t actually available
with a shrug or jacket – but what we can do is
supply fabrics and extra trim, so that brides can
have a matching shrug, jacket or wrap made to
their own design.
you think this is?
Our best seller is style 8477, which is available with
a little tulle shrug.
Yes I think they’ve certainly enjoyed an increase in
popularity, especially since most dresses are now
designed without sleeves, and a lot of women don’t
like to show off their arms.
wrap?
I don’t think there’s any shape dress that you need
to avoid, although you must make sure the chosen
cover-up design complements the neckline of the
gown. For example, a halterneck dress works better
with a shrug or jacket rather than a wrap.
What are your future trend predictions for these
cover-ups?
I believe they’ll continue to grow in popularity,
particularly the shrug designs, since they’re more
fashion-led. I think also the shrug or jacket is more
practical, because it stays in place more easily – the
last thing a bride wants is to worry about a wrap
sliding to the floor because she’s got her hands full
with her bouquet.
ATTIRE 47 ·
Betsey Coutu
re
+44 (0)20 83
09 9335
www.betseycou
ture.com
a Bridal
Constantin
2 564 710
+44 (0)179
al.co.uk
antinabrid
www.const
Lucca Bride
+45 98 930 144
www.luccabride.com
Niki Livas
+44 (0)1908 262 626
www.nikilivas.com
48 ATTIRE
Bridal
Formalwear
fashion
Trudy Lee
+44 (0)1707 64
3 633
www.trudylee.c
o.uk
ni
Blue by Enzoa
4 710
56
2
79
)1
(0
+44
oani.com
www.bluebyenz
Nicola Anne
0 151
+44 (0)1455 25
.com
www.nicolaanne
Ellis Brid
als
+44 (0)20
8888 8833
www.ellis
bridals.co
.uk
ATTIRE 49
Tales of the unexpected
What would you do if the worst happened? Sarah Dew of Acacia Business Consultants explains
how business continuity planning can safeguard your venture from disruption by unforeseen events
There has never been
a more critical time to
protect your business
and its survival than
during the current
economic climate.
But how do you guard
your company assets
and reputation from
harm, ensure you are
prepared for, can respond to, and recover from,
unexpected events?
Nearly one in five firms suffers major disruption
every year, and more than 50% of companies
who do not have a plan in place and are hit by
disaster go out of business within 12 months.
Such disruptions are incredibly bad for business;
affecting operations and profit, they can result in
significant HR and health and safety implications,
a loss of customers to competitors, and an
increase in insurance premiums. Developing and
implementing a business continuity plan will
ensure your company is ready if disaster strikes.
Business continuity is all about damage
limitation and restoring normality within your
organisation as soon as possible after an incident,
by identifying and managing the risks that
could threaten its survival. But what goes into
a continuity plan, and what are the aspects you
should consider? Follow these five simple steps:
1) Analyse your business
Before planning anything, analyse your business.
What are your critical functions, who and what
do you need to carry these out, what effect would
a disruption have on these, and what are your
recovery priorities? Consider the effect if your
business was disrupted for 24 hours, 48 hours,
a week or a month. Think about staff, premises,
technology, supplies and suppliers, stakeholders
and timescales.
2) Assess the risks to your business
Something as simple as a delay from one of your
key suppliers can have a huge impact on the
running of your business, and affect your ability to
deliver your core services. Look for single points
of failure and consider the ‘what if ’ scenarios. Risks
common to every company include:
· Flooding to premises or the surrounding area
· Structural damage to buildings through fire or
forced entry
· A loss of significant numbers of key staff
· Loss of IT or telecoms
· Loss of electrical power, heating or fuel
Always consider the worst-case scenario, and you
will find the less serious incidents will be easier
to manage. Ask yourself what the impact of each
risk would be on the business and how likely is it
to happen. What measures can you introduce to
eliminate its likelihood or reduce its impact? Don’t
be afraid to ask key suppliers if they have their own
contingency arrangements too; after all, their risk
is your risk.
3) Develop your strategy
It is essential that you have the support of your
CEO, directors and shareholders. Together you
should agree what your business continuity strategy
will be; will you accept the risks and do nothing,
50 ATTIRE
attempt to reduce the risks and make arrangements
for help after an incident, or reduce all risks to a
level where you will not require any outside help?
4) Develop your plan
Keep your plan simple and generic. Focus on the
impact of the disruption and how you will recover,
rather than the details of the disruption itself.
Build on existing roles and responsibilities and
consult with external agencies such as your local
authority and utility companies, neighbouring
businesses, suppliers and insurance company. Your
plan should include:
• Roles and responsibilities
• Incident checklists
• Priorities during the first hour
• Priorities after the first hour
• Procedures and processes
• Emergency contacts
• A schedule for reviewing and updating
5) Rehearse your plan
You will not know if your plan is effective until it
has been tested. A ‘table-top’ exercise will allow you
to validate your priorities and ensure everything is
in the right order.
Remember, if you fail to plan, then you might
as well plan to fail. Make business continuity
part of how you run your company; include it
when developing new contracts, partnerships and
practices. By being prepared for the unexpected
everyone - your customers, staff, suppliers and you
- will have confidence in your business. A
Further information
For advice and assistance with your business
continuity plan, call Acacia Business
Consultants on +44 (0)1903 261 571 or visit
the website www.acaciaconsulting.eu
WILVORST UK
Tel: 0117 932 7905
Email: [email protected]
www.wilvorst.de
Waistcoats
Waistcoats
LLOYD ATTREE AND SMITH
+44 (0)1732 885 865
www.lloydattreeandsmith.com
Buttoned
AVANTGARDE BY HEIRLOOM
+44 (0)1706 367 711
www.heirloomwaistcoats.co.uk
JEAN YVES
226
+44 (0)1737 832
uk
o.
www.jeanyves.c
down
Give your menswear section a
boost by freshening up the offering
with these new waistcoat designs
WILVORST
+49 5551 701 207
www.wilvorst.de
ATTIRE 53 ·
MASTERHAND
+44 (0)870 300 0822
www.masterhand.com
HEIRLOOM WAISTCOATS
+44 (0)1706 367 711
www.heirloomwaistcoats.co.uk
FIELD CLOTHING
+44 (0)1892 521 146
www.fieldclothing.co.u
k
MARC WALLACE
+44 (0)20 7731 4575
www.marcwallace.com
54 ATTIRE
Harking
BACK
We chat to Regine Ellis, Managing
Director of Ellis Bridals, as this family
firm simultaneously looks forward to
its centenary year… and back to its
historic roots.
Who set up Ellis Bridals, and what prompted
them to do so?
Established in 1912 by Aida Ellis, Ellis Bridals
is a British family-run business with its origins
in London’s East End. An early innovator of the
bridalwear industry, our firm has dressed thousands
of brides, all around the world, over the last ninetyseven years. As we approach our centenary year,
we are still one of the UK most successful and
best-loved bridalwear brands, renowned within the
industry for our unsurpassed quality, design and
customer service.
How would you describe your latest collections?
Using our rich design archives as inspiration, and
incorporating innovative techniques, we created
our Heritage Collection for 2010. Each gown
has been expertly put together using fine fabrics,
handcrafted French lace, and intricate beading
using Swarovski crystals and mother of pearl,
culminating in a spectacular masterpiece that will
take your breath away.
Be it a Grecian gown with soft cascading
chiffon or a sculpted duchess satin fishtail dress,
our collection is steeped in tradition and grandeur,
providing each bride with an unforgettable
experience on her big day. The collection also
includes a number of boleros and jackets encrusted
with crystals, made to complement each gown.
As well as Ellis Bridals, we have two other
established brands. Kelsey Rose covers prom
56 ATTIRE
and bridesmaid, and comprises a fantastic range
of dresses in a rainbow of colours. From floorsweeping satin gowns to playful tulle frocks, the
collection offers great style for the individual and
the bridal party.
John Charles offers women exclusive outfits for
those special occasions. Earlier this year the brand
was awarded the accolade of Best Occasionwear
Collection, voted for by independent retailers.
The Spring/Summer 2010 collection continues
to focus on glamour and sophistication, whilst
incorporating innovative shapes and proportions
with shorter styles.
Which fabrics do you enjoy working with most
and why?
We use a wide variety of high-quality fabrics,
including taffeta, silk, duchess satin, lace, chiffon,
tulle, and organza. We particularly enjoy working
with taffeta, as it is a great fabric to manipulate,
which allows us to drape, twist and tuck, creating
the flattering silhouettes we are known for.
Where do you find your inspiration for your
designs?
Both inspiration and fabrics are sourced from
around the world, including locations such as
Hong Kong, New York, Los Angeles, Paris
and Milan. We research new methods of
embellishment and styling while travelling, and
then the collection is designed in London. We
Profile
embodiment of classic with a modern twist. Its
flattering A-line silhouette ensures a perfect
nipped-in waist for all sizes, while the cascading
lace train exudes glamour.
How many stockists do you have in the UK, and
is this stockist base something you plan to grow?
Ellis Bridals is available in over 250 independent
bridal boutiques in the UK and internationally, and
all are supported by a dedicated team of agents.
Our European presence continues to expand, with
increased interest from overseas retailers in France,
Portugal, Spain, Turkey, Israel, Russia and Poland.
are constantly working on new developments of
specialist beadwork, embroidery, cutting, sewing
and finishes, all of which are exclusive to us.
We always design for our customer, and ensure
that the gowns always have a timeless appeal, while
still exploring the boundaries of what women
dream to wear. We endeavour to create gowns that
are beyond special, that are unique and individual,
achieving a couture garment at a commercial price.
We also work very closely with our retail
customers, sharing knowledge and experiences to
help us support each other in the future. The design
and sales team make regular visits to our numerous
stockists across the country to obtain first-hand
research before every season. We want both our
stockists and our brands to be successful.
If you could design a bridal gown for anyone in
the public eye, who would it be and why?
It would have to be Kate Middleton, as she
projects such an easy elegance. At Ellis we want
our brides’ individuality and inner confidence to
radiate, projecting their femininity and allure.
Which are your best-selling gowns?
Legend has it that 11032 the ‘Princess and the
Frog’ design from our 07 collection is our best
seller to date. From its launch we have been
inundated with interest. More recently, styles
11135 and 11127 have been our best sellers. The
former is sophisticated and extremely flattering,
and the fabric has been manipulated to create
romantic ruched flowers. The latter is the perfect
What promotional activity do you have planned
in order to support your stockists?
We see our advertising campaigns as fundamental
to the development and success of the brand,
and each campaign takes you on a journey. Our
Heritage Collection has started to be advertised
in national wedding publications, and this will
continue throughout the year – and of course we
also work closely with the regional bridal and trade
publications too. We are increasing our interaction
on the web with a new blog, accessed through our
websites, to enable brides to develop a relationship
with the brand.
In addition each of our stockists receives point
of sale material, look books, swatches, posters and
signs for in-store activity, and we also offer support
for trunk shows.
How do you view the current market for
bridalwear and what trends do you see emerging
over the coming months?
Brides are becoming increasingly influenced by the
media, while blogs and chatrooms enable them to
share experiences with others. They are certainly
more fashion orientated, wanting their gown to
reflect their personal style at the same time as
being ‘bridal’.
How are you being affected by the current
economic climate, if at all, and what steps are you
taking to minimise its impact?
Our general feedback from our retail customers
is that despite the downturn in the economy, the
bridal market is still holding its own. We continue
to offer the most desirable gowns at attainable
prices with dedicated customer service.
What can we expect from Ellis Bridals over the
coming year?
We have been experimenting with the fabrics,
styling and shaping of our gowns for this latest
collection of ours. We are particularly interested in
offering a variety of necklines, paying attention to
straps and cover-ups. A
Further information
To find out more about Ellis Bridals, go online
at www.ellisbridals.co.uk. Further information
on John Charles can be found online at
www.johncharles.co.uk, while the Kelsey Rose
website is www.kelseyrose.co.uk.
ATTIRE 57
Style: G1012
Range: Posh Glamorous
Wholesale Price: £199
RRP: £559
Style: C0812
Range: Posh Classic
Wholesale Price: £199
RRP: £559
Posh Royal
Luxury gowns wholesale from £169 - £449
Posh Classic
Popular gowns wholesale from £99 - £329
Posh Glamorous
Sophisticated gowns wholesale from £129 - £349
Posh Elegant
Destination gowns wholesale from £79 - £289
Posh Bohemian
Contemporary proms wholesale from £99 - £369
Posh Fairy
Cinderella skirts wholesale from £119 - £339
Posh Night Gowns
Evening and Cocktail gowns wholesale from £59 - £189
Posh Bridals is actively recruiting dealers in the UK.
To find out more please contact our sales team at [email protected]
Posh Bridesmaids
Bridesmaids dresses wholesale from £39 - £119
Yarwood-White
+44 (0)844 561 6862
www.yarwood-white.com
Jonathan James Couture
+44 (0)1244 383 810
www.jonathanjamescouture.com
Shop window
Snowflake decoration, £3.49
each, ChristmasTimeUK
+44 (0)1427 667 270
www.christmastimeuk.com
Winter
WONDERLAND
Give your window displays a bit of
va-va-voom with some themed accessories
Star by Julien Macdonald faceted
frames, £15, Debenhams
+44 (0)20 7529 0236
www.debenhams.com
Large Silver Diamond
decoration, £3.50,
House of Fraser
+44 (0)845 602 1073
www.houseoffraser.co.uk
Champagne tiered pendant,
£175, BHS
+44 (0)845 196 0000
www.bhs.co.uk
Silver Crackle bauble, £3.50,
House of Fraser
+44 (0)845 602 1073
www.houseoffraser.co.uk
Siena Xzane
+44 (0)20 8509 0001
www.sienaxzane.com
Cut glass candlestick,
£10, Breeze
+44 (0)1223 354 403
www.breeze.uk.com
ATTIRE 59
Maggie Sottero
+44 (0)151 339 9139
www.maggiesotterobridal.com
side
On the
These chic asymmetrical options
will wow fashion-conscious brides
60 ATTIRE
Fashion
Alfred Sung
+44 (0)1909 774 471
www.alfredsungbridals.com
Alfred Angelo
6
+44 (0)1908 262 62
edkingdom.com
nit
lou
ge
an
red
alf
www.
Blu by Mori Lee
+44 (0)1476 541 116
www.morilee.com
Benjamin Roberts
+44 (0)1792 564 710
www.benjaminroberts.co.
uk
ATTIRE 61 ·
Linea Raffaelli
+32 013 771 476
com
www.linearaffaelli.
Nicola Anne
+44 (0)1455 250 15
1
www.nicolaanne.c
om
Lucca Bride
+45 98 930 144
www.luccabride.com
Jesus Peiro
+353 44 934 7661
www.jesuspeiro.com
MiaMia
+44 (0)20 8804 1567
www.miamiabridal.co.uk
62 ATTIRE
Sharon Bowen Couture
+44 (0)1260 271 269
www.sharonbowencouture.com
Between the lines
Perfect pleats lend an elegant air to these beautiful gowns
64 ATTIRE
Fashion
Joyce Young
88
+44 (0)20 7224 78
ections.com
oll
gc
un
www.joyceyo
Complice Stalo Th
eodorou
+357 223 81856
www.complice-st.co
m
Mori Lee
+44 (0)1476 541 11
6
www.morilee.com
Madeline Isaac-James
+44 (0)1252 377 725
dress.co.uk
www.maternitywedding
ATTIRE 65 ·
Winnie Couture
+1 310 858 8868
www.winniecouture.com
Venus Bridal
+44 (0)1603 410 79
2
www.venusbridal.co
m
Tusneem Bridal
38
+44 (0)845 053 56
k
o.u
l.c
ida
www.tusneembr
66 ATTIRE
Precious Formals
+44 (0)808 120 23
37
www.preciousform
als.com
Short&sweet
Sassy brides will adore these cute
dresses with higher hemlines
Justin Alexander
+44 (0)1908 615 599
www.justinalexanderbridal.com
68 ATTIRE
Fashion
Betsey Couture
Constantina Bridal
+44 (0)20 8309 9335
www.betseycouture.co.uk
+44 (0)1792 458 380
www.constantinabridal.co
.uk
Ellis Bridals
+44 (0)20 8888 8833
www.ellisbridals.co.uk
Alfred Angelo
+44 (0)1908 262 626
www.alfredangelounited
kingdom.com
ATTIRE 69 ·
Johanna Hehir
+44 (0)20 7486 27
60
www.johanna-heh
ir.com
Tara Keely
+44 (0)1423 561 870
www.jlmeurope.co.uk
Suzanne Ermann
+33 1 56 24 93 94
ann.com
www.suzanne-erm
Forget me Not Designs
+44 (0)1983 563 885
www.forgetmenotdesigns.
co.
uk
70 ATTIRE
FITTING AND ALTERATION COURSE
BRIDAL GOWN CONSTRUCTION COURSE
ALTERATIONS CAUSING A PROBLEM?
The answer is to learn how to add more
profit to your bottom line, by adding
more knowledge to your work room
Each course takes place on your premises
and is tailored to the students needs
SHELAGHM.
BRIDAL GOWN DESIGNER
More information please contact Shelagh on
01490 412273 or 07702 668103
www.shelaghmbridalgowndesigner.co.uk
Wedding fayre play
Our regular columnist, Abigail Neill, muses on the
pros and cons of attending wedding fayres
P
icture this... you’re at the shop, at the end of a busy Saturday, and it’s about
6pm (or as is so often the case for us, closer to 7pm). It’s been a long week
and a particularly long day. Mr Pinot Grigio is calling and your tired feet need
a break, then, abruptly, you remember... Your soothing date with Mr Grigio
has to be cancelled; you have a wedding fayre tomorrow and an extremely early
start to boot! Yes, in the months of January, February and October this is often
the harsh reality. To those of you who can’t relate, quite simply, I am envious.
Many retailers opt not to include wedding fayres as part of their marketing
strategy. Some hate them, while others will argue that they are a critical part
of appointment generation. Whether to participate or not depends on many
factors, including what marketable strengths and weaknesses your business has
(i.e. location, business age, reputation, competition and labels carried). In short,
some of us do them and some of us don’t. Abigail’s Collection does. And like
our approach to most things, we’ve always put in the utmost effort and tried to
do them successfully.
I remember the first wedding fayre at which I exhibited – incidentally, it
marked my first official day of business. I arrived feeling nervously green and
slightly worried about how friendly (or not) other bridal exhibitors were likely
to be. It took more than two hours to set up, and the process itself was fraught
with embarrassment. I managed to knock two dress mannequins to the floor
so hard that their busts still have what can only be described as inverted
nipples! Despite this I soldiered on, and haphazardly created a melodramatic
display of lights, dresses, fabric swatches, fresh flowers, balloons, branded
banner stands, goodie bags, laptop presentation, snazzy marketing flyers and
drumstick lollipops for the kids! Once it was complete I even stopped to
72 ATTIRE
consider if I had done enough! I rang my ever-reassuring husband, Rob, who
kindly reminded me that this was a small wedding fair in a local village hall
and not a national expo at the NEC. I saw his point.
Back then I considered the day to be a relative success. I spoke to
approximately 20 brides (all that attended), and made a few appointments
in the diary. Subsequently they became my first ever buying customers. The
other bridal stand didn’t exactly ‘talk’ to me, but they didn’t throw chocolate
coated profiteroles at me either, and so all things considered it was a good day.
Okay, it was a gentle start as far business was concerned, but one buyer is often
all that’s required to recoup costs. I remember packing up feeling absolutely
exhausted, but driving home fuelled with enthusiasm about Abigail’s
Collection, my brand new bridal business, now with customers!
Over the years we’ve attended various wedding exhibitions and open days.
We’ve learnt which ones work and which ones to avoid. I advise anyone
who considers exhibiting to do their homework before committing. Ask
the organiser if they have arranged many in the past, and how many brides
they expect (halve it!). Also ask them what advertising they will be taking to
promote the show. It’s also worth considering the time of year, whether there
are any big sporting events on that date, or any other bridal fairs that might
clash. All of these things can have a negative effect and keep brides away.
Our worst experience was an open day at a hotel. I am still convinced
that signs were strategically placed along the road saying ‘don’t bother we’re
closed’. Despite 35 keen exhibitors, three vintage cars and a brightly dressed
Feminine fashion influenced bridal shoes and
sexy sophisticated occasion shoes
www.occasionshoe.co.uk
[email protected]
Tel: 01752 863640
hyperactive children’s entertainer, no-one showed up! Oh, except for one
couple – they were hotel guests, slightly demented and not actually engaged...
“We’re just having a nose,” they told us.
If you decide to market yourself at a wedding fayre, it’s worth remembering
this is an excellent chance to showcase your business (to potential brides and
other industry players including wedding venues and competitors). You’ll
need to create a professional and inviting stand, and an upbeat and friendly
attitude is essential – if a bride likes you and your dresses, they will want to
come to your shop, which should equal ‘ker-ching’! In our experience, brides
don’t respond well to pushiness nor indeed does the groom who (like you)
probably won’t really want to be there either. That said, I know it’s tempting,
especially when you are wedged between other ‘keen exhibitors’ - Pushy Pete
the photographer on your left and Bumptious Brenda the florist on your right.
It doesn’t exactly help!
Other non-helpful situations include being positioned directly opposite a
not-so-friendly competitor (my favourite), being in the same room as another
shop with exactly the same dress on display which is priced at £100 cheaper or
heaven forbid more (my second favourite), forgetting pins, forgetting the diary
or even forgetting dresses! Which, coincidentally has only happened once, the
bonus of which was the fact that the booth took only five minutes to set up.
The main disadvantage was that customers weren’t exactly captivated by my
banner stand and light arrangement!
So in our view wedding fairs can be worth attending. Often the staff and I
really enjoy them, however we choose with care, use checklists for our packing,
and we really make an effort with the stand. Not quite the NEC expo-style
maximum impact I described earlier, but a little effort which I think goes a
long way, and can be the difference between a bride visiting my shop, your
shop or another. Good luck to those of you that do, and to those who don’t,
please, for my sake, enjoy your hot dates with Mr Grigio and the lovely
Sundays that follow! A
Further information
Abigail Neill runs Abigail’s Collection, based in Colchester, Essex.
Tel: +44 (0)1206 574 575
www.abigailscollection.co.uk
ATTIRE 73
Selling a business
Thinking of putting your business up for sale? There’s lots to consider –
Business Link adviser Peter Mulhall offers an overview of the process.
Let’s start with you: why do you want to exit
from the business? You need to be clear about
your own motives and objectives, which will
involve your future financial needs and security.
There is also the future of the company to
consider: would your full or partial exit help the
business to grow, inject new skills or threaten
its stability?
Most businesses if put up for sale tomorrow
would not achieve their potential selling price.
The reason for this is that most companies are
quite small and managed in a very personal
and sometimes quirky way. Selling a business,
like selling a house, requires research and
preparation. But unlike sprucing up a house
with a tidy up and a lick of paint, grooming a
business for sale can be a long process, so
make sure you start as early as possible.
prepare everything, but that really depends on
the company’s size and complexity.
Start by listing the things that various buyers
will find attractive, and also look (honestly) at
the potential barriers to sale; the things about
your business that would put off buyers. For
the attractive things about your business, what
can you do to make them even better? For the
potential barriers, what do you need to do to
improve things?
Get help to put your list together – Business
Link advisers can help with this early thought
process and help you to find the right experts
later on, and the service is free. Creating an
action plan to groom the business, including
realistic timescales and adding on the months
it will take to market and sell, will give you an
indication of how soon to start preparing.
Look at the options
So what sort of exit could you make? There are
several options, and you should discuss their
pros and cons with an adviser:
“Creating an action plan to groom
the business, including realistic
timescales and adding on the
months it will take to market and
sell, will give you an indication of
how soon to start preparing”
• Trade sale: sell it outright to a third party.
• Family succession: this is less likely to realise
the full value, but gives you an option to retain
a share.
• Management buyout (MBO): for this you
need a business with a management structure
– alternatively one or more members of staff
may be interested.
• Merger with another business: this is not
usually an exit, and you would be likely to have
shares in the larger business as opposed to a
cash sum.
• Liquidation: yes, you can just sell off the
stock and other assets, and cease trading.
Grooming the business
Business sales specialists often talk about
the importance of a five-year exit strategy to
74 ATTIRE
The action plan
Marketing your business for sale is similar to
marketing your products – everything you do
should have the buyer’s needs in mind. Here
are some of the common things to look at to
improve the selling price:
• Increase your net profit
This is easier said than done, but most
businesses suppress profit in order to minimise
tax (corporation tax if your business is a
Limited Company or income tax if you are a
sole trader). However, as the future valuation
is going to be based on historical profitability
(as well as future potential) you need to start
showing the maximum profit, so talk to your
accountant about this.
• Get your accounts and administration
systems in order. Put systems in place if there
are none. Buyers want to really concentrate
on driving sales and profits, not sorting out the
basic back office stuff.
• Make sure that you comply with all
applicable legislation
No, I’m not suggesting you are currently
breaking the law, but make 100% sure that
everything is covered.
• Expand the customer base
Take the opportunity to review your product
offering and see what you can do to be
attractive to a wider audience, particularly if you
have a very niche market. If you rely on a small
number of high spending customers, buyers will
see that as a risk.
• Exclusivity deals with product brands
These will add to the value, so look for more
deals, but ensure that none are due to expire
at, or soon after, the targeted sale date. Try to
negotiate longer exclusivity deals before you put
the business on the market as it will be difficult
to do that afterwards.
• Try to reduce the business’ amount of
reliance on you personally
This might not be possible if you are the only
person, with no or little staffing, but buyers will
be put off (or the value of the business will be
reduced) if they fear that when you leave loyal
customers will fall away. Also, you are restricting
yourself to finding a buyer prepared to be
hands-on in the way that you are.
• If you have a team, make the most of them
This is a continuation of the last point, aimed
at making sure that the business can manage
without you at the wheel continuously. Create
a proper management structure, look at
people’s skills and train them to take on more
responsibility. Make it as easy as possible for
the new owner to step into the business. Make
Business Link
sure you involve your staff in the process at the
right time – too early might cause alarm bells to
ring, but too late could alienate them and lead
to feelings of betrayal.
• Make the most of any intellectual property
For instance, trademarking the name and image
of the logo. If you have your own brand names
can they be protected? This will add value to
the business, but it is a specialist area so seek
the appropriate advice and assistance.
“Create a proper management
structure, look at people’s skills
and train them to take on more
responsibility. Make it as easy as
possible for the new owner to step
into the business”
• Sell any surplus assets to release cash for
you before the sale
If you own the premises decide whether you are
going to sell them separately (and lease them
back), sell them with the business, or retain the
property and become a landlord. If you lease
the premises and the lease will only have a
short time to run at the time of the sale, this will
be off-putting to buyers.
• Make the assets attractive
If you have a shop spruce it up to attract buyers
in the same way as you would a house for sale.
Get help
If you get the best advice you will get the best
price. Your local Business Link can either
offer you an adviser or help you to find one
elsewhere. They will help you think through your
exit strategy and work with you on identifying
the things that you will need to do.
A good accountant, experienced in business
sales, is essential – and it’s good to get them
on board early. Accountants can provide
invaluable advice on grooming the business,
answer the questions raised on due diligence
by the buyer’s accountant, and advise you on
the tax implications of the sale. An accountant
might even have potential buyers in their own
client base.
The chances are you will need a lawyer at
some point in the process so research your
potential legal adviser early. How will you
advertise the business for sale? You might
already know the future buyer – perhaps a
member of the family, member of staff, a
customer, another retailer or related business
– but if not, you might choose to advertise in
the local press and trade magazines, or you
might choose to retain a sales agent to market
the business for you for a fee.
In summary
Put simply, there are four simple rules to follow
– start your planning early; review your business
critically; put together your improvement plan
and exit strategy; and get professional help. A
Jargon buster
Vendor
You, the seller.
Due diligence
The process undertaken by the buyer
to assess the worth and potential of the
business. Due diligence is often mainly
financial, scrutinising the performance of
the business and verifying the value of its
tangible assets and goodwill. But there
will be a degree of legal due diligence to
verify that you are the legal owner and
looking at contracts and agreements
that the business has signed. The buyer
will want to do a degree of market due
diligence which is all about the future
potential of the business.
Goodwill
The proportion of the selling price that is in
excess of the value of the tangible assets
i.e. stock, fixtures, fittings and property.
Heads of agreement
A document that summarises the main
legal aspects of the sale agreed between
the parties, before a detailed contract
is drawn up. Parts of it may be legally
binding.
Capital Gains Tax (CGT)
The tax you will be liable for on the sale of
the business. Your accountant will steer
you through this.
Memorandum of sale
The marketing document prepared
by the business and given to potential
buyers. This should not contain detailed,
confidential information.
Further information
For details visit www.businesslink.gov.uk
or telephone +44 (0)845 600 9006.
ATTIRE 75
g
n
i
r
Da
TO BE DIFFERENT
We chat to Nadia Yousuf, a young British Asian designer whose debut
capsule bridal collection pushes the boundaries somewhat - but in a very
elegant manner...
Can you tell us a little about your background?
I sort of fell into fashion really! When I was a
teenager my first job was as a Saturday girl at a
small boutique geared towards the Asian market,
which carried some fabulous lines by up-andcoming British Asian designers. As my interest
grew, I realized I had quite a strong creative flair,
and I slowly started getting involved in designing
for individual clients, creating bespoke evening
and cocktail dresses, as well as bridal gowns. I did
some intense short courses at the London School
of Fashion, and also spent several weeks at the
workshop in India that we work with – I found
that sort of hands-on practical training to be
completely invaluable.
What do you enjoy most about your work?
A bridal gown is pretty much the most important
dress a woman will ever buy – it’s also the one
they’ll spend the most time and money on. I really
love being able to be involved in creating such a
very special gown, especially as you’re effectively
taking someone’s dream, developing it, and making
it reality. That’s where I get the most satisfaction,
working for and with the bride, plus it’s a real thrill
to know that someone’s going to be wearing your
creation on the biggest day of their life.
How would you describe your debut collection?
I absolutely love silk, so the whole collection has
been designed in it. The sumptuous taffetas and
dupions have been embellished with the traditional
ethnic embroidery that I like to use, with gorgeous
beading, threadwork and crystals – this has become
a characteristic feature of my work because of my
own cultural background. The silhouettes are all
quite defined, but there’s nothing too dramatic or
overpowering, and the shapes are still feminine and
elegant. While the dresses are understated in the
way they are cut, I do like to use a few little twists,
a few little fabric manipulations such as pleating or
ruching, just to add a bit of interest.
What inspires your designs?
Apart from the obvious cultural influences, there’s
no one set place that I draw my inspiration from
– that’s the great thing about it, you can find it
anywhere at any time, even just walking down the
street. For me the main thing has been working
directly with brides themselves for the last three or
four years, so when designing my capsule collection
I was constantly thinking about what a bride is
going to want, and how she’ll feel on her big day.
That’s what it’s all about with bridal gowns, it’s not
really about trends or fashion, it’s about making
that woman feel absolutely amazing.
Do you have a signature style?
At the moment, it’s definitely my use of traditional
Indian embellishments, which reflect my family’s
cultural heritage. All the dresses have a little of this
element, even if it’s just a thin band of embroidery,
and I don’t use the soft sort of beadwork that you
tend to get more commonly in this country, it’s the
authentic ethnic decoration that I favour. I’m still a
young designer though, so I do envisage my work
evolving as time goes by.
76 ATTIRE
What is your favourite gown from the collection
and why?
The Haifa design is my favourite. It’s got quite a
simple cut, and there’s nothing overly fussy about
the decorative work, which looks amazing when
the light hits it. While the gown has clean lines,
there are interesting elements to the shape, for
example the asymmetric seam that’s just at the
bottom of the bodice. This very small detailing
creates a dress that’s ‘wow’ to look at, but still in a
demure, elegant and feminine way.
Where are your gowns manufactured and why?
All my designs are made in India, because it
makes sense to have them created by craftspeople
who have a lifetime’s experience in the authentic
embellishment techniques that I use – plus I source
all my materials from the country too. There’s also
a sense of satisfaction in the fact that the dresses
are being created in the place my family came from.
What sort of retailer is your
collection most suited to?
The dresses do deviate a bit
from the traditional norm of
what a wedding dress should
look like, so I think it’s got a
be a retailer who isn’t afraid
to play around with this
concept of a white gown with
a full skirt. Also, I think the
collection best suits a client
base that includes brides who
want something unique and
special; something with a bit
of a twist.
How do you view the bridal
market at the moment?
The first thing I researched
when I started thinking about
my label was the current
financial climate. I think
bridalwear has been relatively
unaffected when you compare
it to other aspects of the bridal
industry, as brides still spend
as much money as they want
to on the dress because it is the
one thing only they get pure indulgence out of – they tend to cut back in other
places instead.
Having said that, from a trade point of view, perhaps some retailers are a
little bit more shy when it comes to taking on new labels, as they don’t want
to take risks. I’m not sure myself whether such a cautious approach is really
the best way to go, as I think now’s the time to be a little braver and take
on something new. I really feel the industry would benefit from a little bit
of a shake-up, because if we keep doing the same thing over and over it just
becomes stale, and brides want their gowns to be fresh and special.
If you could design a gown for anyone in the public eye, who would it be
and why?
It would have to be Anne Hathaway. I love her personal style, and she’s
become so much more experimental with her fashion choices in recent times.
No matter what she wears, even if it’s something very quirky and playful, she
still has this real sense of elegance and femininity. I love designing gowns that
push the boundaries a little bit, yet still retain that feminine and fresh feel, so
she would be my ideal client.
What do you hope to achieve in the next five years?
Well obviously it’s still early days as I’ve only just set up the label, but in five
years I want to have got the business to the stage of being well established. I
don’t want to be one of those labels that’s available on every high street, I’d
rather develop a small but strong, loyal retail base. To be honest I just want to
keep doing what I’m doing, and evolve my own style. Plus I would love Anne
Hathaway to give me a call and ask me to design her dresses! A
Further information
To find out more about Nadia Yousuf ’s capsule bridal collection, simply call
+44 (0)7832 127 434 or visit www.nadiayousuf.com.
www.linzijay.com
@
@
@
Bridal accessories
@
Crowning glories
We speak to some
leading suppliers
about trends in
bridal headbands
and tiaras…
@
@
Leigh-Anne McCague, Designer, Leigh-Anne McCague Couture
+44 (0)1233 712 826
www.leigh-annemccaguetiaras.com
“Here at Leigh-Anne McCague Couture we feel trends are gathering
momentum away from the tiara towards more statement pieces.
These are in the form of large elaborate combs and ornate
headbands which can be worn on the side, and even sweeping
down onto your face. Behind the essential Swarovski crystal, we
are incorporating metallic laces and luxurious silk velvets, and still
lots of sparkle, sparkle, sparkle!”
ATTIRE 79 ·
@
@
@
@
@
@
Kirstie Taylor, Founder and Head Designer, Flo & Percy
+44 (0)1277 637 143
www.vintagetiaras.com
“1940s and 1950s vintage style has been a big trend in mainstream
fashion and has already filtered through to bridal, bringing in more
glamorous combs, headbands and beaded headpieces, making the
tiara a little redundant I think. Brides now want to make a dramatic
statement in their hair to complement the simpler gowns that have
become popular in more recent times, so we have designed some
fabulously eye-catching pieces as part of our Wonderland Collection in
order to fulfil this demand.”
Nicola Ball, Managing Director, Halo & Co
+44 (0)1745 859 730
www.haloandco.com
“We’re leading the trend again this season with some really strong
collections that provide brides with alternatives to the traditional tiara
- including handmade silk flower fascinators with birdcage veils, hippy
chic brow bands and bejewelled hair ribbons. One of the biggest
recent success stories has been the bow, with its feminine charm in
soft sheen satin and silk, plain or highly embellished.”
@
@
Dawn Geller, Director, Jewellery World
+44 (0)161 834 5007
www.jewellery-world.co.uk
“Headbands with pearls and diamanté are a popular choice at the
moment, amongst those who would like an understated look on their
wedding day. For the more glamorous bride, anything goes, from small
and dainty combs to large and ostentatious tiaras! Jewel colours are
definitely this season’s preferred shades, and tiaras with purple, royal
blue, emerald and deep red stones are proving to be very popular with
both brides and bridesmaids this winter.”
80 ATTIRE
Rebecca Doyle, Managing Director, Chez Bec
+44 (0)845 652 0892
www.chezbec.com
“I think 2010 will see a continuation of two of 2009’s biggest wedding
trends, vintage and pearls. We’ll see the first reflected in all aspects
from the venue dressing to the gown, and of course the jewellery and
hair accessories. This will lead to a surge in demand for fascinatortype head pieces as well as pretty little birdcage veil creations.
When it comes to pearls, the more the better! Whilst there will still
be a demand for the more classic pearl tiaras, such as our Isabella
design, I believe the headband-style tiaras will continue lead the way
in 2010, with brides looking for simple, understatedly elegant pieces
to complete their wedding look. Both our single and double row
headbands such as our Rachel and Divine tiaras are bestsellers, and
fit the bill perfectly.”
@
@
@
@
Bridal accessories
Olivier Laudus, Designer, Olivier Laudus Design
+44 (0) 020 8374 1239
www.olivierlaudus.co.uk
“It goes without saying that for most women the
moment she puts her tiara on is when she feels she
has truly become a bride. Although classic fairytale
tiaras are still very popular, I would say the hot trend
for 2010 will be the headband, for an understated
and elegant look. We have also tried to include some
statement pieces in our new tiara collection, featuring
designs like the Layla, with its huge multi-faceted
Swarovski crystals for a clean modern feel, it really has
the wow factor.”
@
@
@
@
Polly Edwards, Designer,
Polly Edwards
+44 (0)1980 847 240
www.pollyedwards.com
“The dress designs in vogue
for the coming season
have a stylish simplicity
that incorporates soft
lines and linear shapes to
complement the silhouette
– so 2010 is all about
making the most of your
accessories and wearing
bold statement pieces
with confidence and in
new innovative ways.
The versatility of our new
collection means that a
bride’s options are no longer
restricted to choosing
between either a tiara or a
headband, she can have
whatever she wants. Whichever design excites her, she can wear it how
she wants – centrally, asymmetrically, in a low bun, side bun, with hair up
or down. The motifs and materials have the recognizable art deco, organic,
diamante mixed with pearls, and Breakfast at Tiffany’s feel that the brand is
celebrated for, but this season incorporates a sexy, indulgent glamour that is
perfect for brides looking for that extra special statement piece.”
Sarah Hatton, Jewellery Designer, Crystabelle
+44 (0)161 485 6585
www.crystabelle.co.uk
“Hair accessories for 2010 complement the asymmetrical dresses
which have a single shoulder in place of the strapless gown.
Side-detail Alice bands and combs of simple pearls, crystals and
diamantes and a fresh accent of sterling silver steal the place of
the traditional tiara. Crystal and pearl hairpins also remain a musthave hair accessory thanks to their simple style and versatility
– made in coloured crystals, they also add a touch of glamour.
Lastly, the birdcage tiara with delicate flows of tiny crystals and
pearls, with a few soft lines falling onto the forehead, is for the
bride who wants a contemporary alternative to the birdcage veil.”
Neil Flatley, Director, Linzi Jay
+44 (0)1254 665 104
www.linzijay.co.uk
“Tiaras and headbands are still one of the steady sellers
at any bridal show. Over the past few years we have seen
a rise in the headband for weddings, and in particular
crystal and pearl, but this is drifting away again now. Hair
vines and hair decorations are still sold, but both require
a certain bride and dress to be effective, although they
nearly always look stunning. The classical tiara shape is
still going very strong and will never die, the use of large
crystals has come to the fore now as the bling factor
takes on a new dimension. I would also predict the rise
of the fascinator for brides, and you will notice a lot more
full-bodied dresses coming out, which are perfectly
complemented by a feather or floral tiara.”
ATTIRE 81
ALL THE ANSWERS
David Braithwaite, Ceri Rogers and Lee Pearce offer advice on your retail-related queries
Ceri Rogers is an Assistant
Solicitor at Ellisons Solicitors,
one of East Anglia’s oldest
established legal practices.
The firm has 23 partners and
offices in Colchester, Clactonon-Sea, Frinton -on-Sea and
Dovercourt, Harwich. For
further details visit the website
www.ellisonslegal.com.
Ceri advises on all aspects
of contentious and noncontentious commercial law,
and you can contact her on
+44(0)1206 719 275 or by
sending an email to
[email protected]
David Braithwaite has been
advising both corporate and
individual clients for over
15 years, and his extensive
knowledge has earned
constant recognition in
the press, national radio
and television, who often
seek opinion and rely on his
company to provide them
with expert market comment
and opinion. His company,
Citrus Financial Management,
is a firm of financial advisers
based in Kent. For details call
+44 (0)1732 834 834 or visit
www.citrusfinancial.com.
Lee Pearce is a Partner
and the Head of Property
Litigation at Ellisons
Solicitors, one of East Anglia’s
oldest established legal
practices. Lee advises on all
aspects of commercial and
residential landlord and tenant
and property law including
advisory work, representation
in Civil Courts, Arbitration,
Mediation and other forums
for resolving property related
disputes. You can contact him
on +44(0)1206 719 669 or by
sending an email to
[email protected].
possible to secure more with personal guarantees.
This leaves you needing to raise a significant
deposit of 20% - 30%. Of course, remember that
just as with residential property, if you buy, you will
be affected by interest rate rises and dips in the
property market.
Thinking ahead
Q
I run a small bridal shop, currently employing
four staff – but the business has now grown
to the point where we are thinking of employing
an additional sales person. Am I right in thinking
that a firm with five staff must offer a pension
scheme? How do I go about this and what are the
financial implications?
A
Bricks and mortar
Q
My landlord has just put our premises on
the market, and as our location is excellent,
plus business seems to be remaining healthy even
in theses tough times, I’m thinking of looking
into buying the shop. I’m familiar with residential
mortgages, but what are the differences with loans
for commercial properties?
A
David says: Unlike a residential mortgage, a
commercial mortgage is based more on the
ability of the business to support the loan as well
as you, and they generally require a larger deposit.
They are also not as widely available as residential
mortgages, requiring you to either do your own
research, or employ a broker to research the market
82 ATTIRE
for you. The good news is that you would then
own the premises, and the payments may not be
that dissimilar to that of rent.
All being well, the value of the asset (your
premises) will increase to provide a capital gain.
Most commercial mortgages have a term of 15
years or more, and mortgage interest payments are
tax deductible – plus it may also be possible to sublet space not being used, with the lender’s approval,
to provide further income.
A commercial mortgage lender would expect
a business to be stable and profitable, so you can
expect a lender to ask to see long-term financial
projections, business plans and previous years’
audited accounts.
Generally, most providers lend 70% - 80% of the
purchase price of the property, although it may be
David says: You are correct – if a business has
five or more relevant employees, and there
is no suitable pension scheme in place, then you
are legally obliged to offer access to a Stakeholder
Pension for all relevant employees. A ‘relevant’
employee is one that has worked for you for at least
three months, is over 18, and earns above the lower
earnings limit for National Insurance – which is
£4,940 for 2009/10 tax year.
At the present time you are not obliged to
actually pay into the scheme as an employer, you
need only to offer access to one. However, the
Government is discussing introducing a new
scheme from 2012 - Personal Accounts - which
would make payments into a pension compulsory
for both employer and employee.
To set up a scheme and ensure you comply with
the law, I would suggest your first port of call
would be to talk to a local financial adviser and ask
if they can help you. If you do not know of one,
ask friends or family for a recommendation, or try
www.unbiased.co.uk to find a specialist in your
area. At the outset they need to be clear how they
get paid, and you will find many advisers will levy a
charge to set up a scheme due to the fact that many
employers will not pay in.
Breaking point
Q
My shop has a town centre location, and
several nearby retailers have had their
windows broken overnight. Does our landlord
have any obligation to provide roller shutters or
removable grilles?
A
Lee says: The short answer is no, not unless
the landlord is obliged to do so by the lease
terms, which is unlikely. If there was frequent
damage to the subject unit, or nearby units perhaps
in the ownership of the same landlord, then
insurers might impose such a condition on the
insurance cover. The landlord would then need to
act at their own expense, but still may be able to
recover the cost from the tenant depending upon
the terms of the lease.
Alternatively the landlord might have an option
(rather than an obligation) to do the work under
a service charge provision, but he would then
expect to recover the cost (or a proportionate part
thereof ) from the tenant under the service charge
provisions in the lease.
Legally binding
Q
Would you recommend that all new supplier
contracts are looked over by a solicitor, or are
there some basic checks I can carry out for myself
before signing?
A
Ceri says: When you have received a new
contract from a supplier you may have
already spent a large amount of time discussing the
proposed terms of the contract with them. With
this in mind, it is important that you take the time
to review the contract that has been provided, to
ensure that it reflects the terms that have been
agreed. For example, if you have changed supplier
to obtain reduced prices or more favourable
payment terms, always check that these have been
specifically included.
There are a number of ways in which you may
minimise the risk of being caught out by a term
in a contact. Take the time to read the contract
thoroughly, including in particular any small
print, before you sign the agreement. Always read
the contents of each clause carefully, and do not
simply assume that the content of each clause is
limited to matters referred to in the clause heading.
You should check all details carefully, even those
which might be referred to as ‘standard’. Most
importantly, do not rely on promises made in the
negotiations leading up the agreement regarding
matters which will be included in the contract, and
always remember that if a particular point is not
included in the written agreement it is unlikely to
be incorporated in the contract.
Often when things go wrong people can
discover a number of contractual terms that they
had no idea existed. The contract is also likely to
contain clauses dealing with issues which have not
been contemplated by you in your pre-contract
discussions. It is therefore extremely important that
you allow yourself the opportunity to consider the
meaning and implication of these clauses before
you sign the agreement.
It is worth paying particular attention to
terms in the contract relating to the duration
of the contract; whether the supplier is entitled
to unilaterally increase its prices; any minimum
purchasing requirements; and the circumstances in
which either party can terminate the agreement.
Before you sign always be sure that you have read
and understood the contract fully.
It is important to be aware that business
customers do not have the level of legal protection
offered to consumers. You might also consider
reviewing the contract to see whether it specifically
refers to the quality of the goods that the supplier
provides and what you should do in the event that
you are unhappy with any goods provided.
Contracts drafted for suppliers may have
different objectives to contracts prepared with the
customer in mind. If you are unsure of the extent
of either party’s obligations you should not be
afraid to raise any queries that you have with the
supplier or to seek the advice of a solicitor. A
Further Information
If you have a question about any aspect of your
business, simply write to Q&A Special, Attire Bridal
magazine, Broseley House, Newlands Drive, Witham,
Essex CM8 2UL. Alternatively, send your queries to
[email protected]
ATTIRE 83
ATTIRE
Bridal
ne
i
l
n
O
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84 ATTIRE
84 ATTIRE
Statement Headdresses and Jewellery Made in England
Tel: +44(0)1233 712826
www.leigh-annemccaguetiaras.com
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ATTIRE 87
Next issue
Retailer
Suits
Best
report 2009
foot forward
Special occasion shoes to die for
you
Make the most of the menswear market
Pretty
as a princess
Spotlight on the latest prom designs
Mum’s
the word
Elegant options for the mother of
the bride
ATTIRE
ISSUE 15
Bridal
January/February 2010
Available from: 4th January 2010
Advertising deadline: 11th December 2009
88 ATTIRE
Industry
Plus
news Bridal trends
Retailer interview
On Display
On Display
The fabric of a great wedding…
…starts with a great dress
Beadmaster.com are a leading supplier of
loose beads and jewellery making components
to costumiers, jewellers, designers,
dressmakers, dancers and many more people.
Help your bride choose the best fabrics
for her bridal party. The Carrington Bride
book is a beautifully presented collection
of stunning, quality fabrics brought
together in one indispensable volume.
We are dedicated to offer a new and extensive
range of beads and components to our loyal
and new customers.
www.beadmaster.com
&
st le
Fa liab e
Re ervic
S
Tel: 01924 240 947
Place your order 24/7
View online swatches
Order samples swatches or full orders
quickly and easily
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See our latest ranges as they are added
To order your copy
call 01204 692223 or visit
www.carringtonbride.co.uk
ATTIRE
Bridal
To advertise here call Charlotte Nicholls
on +44 (0)1376 535 612
or visit
to download our media pack
Michael’s Bridal Fabrics
Unit F15, Northfleet Indst Est, Lower Road, Northfleet, Kent DA11 9SW
Tel: 01322 380480/568 FAX: 01322 380680
We offer a fast, reliable and friendly service on our continually increasing range
(currently over 2,500 choices) of bridal fabrics.
DHJ Weisters Ltd, the U.K’s only bridal fabric weaver offers an exciting
collection of elegant fabrics for the discerning bride & groom.
Tel: 01254 873333 Fax: 01254 873659
Anchor Mill, PO Box 8, Moss Fold Road, Darwen, Lancashire, BB3 0AH
WWW.BRIDALFABRICS.CO.UK
Range includes: plain and shot taffeta, velvet, duchess satins, organzas, shimmer, chiffons,
crepes, laces, brocades, various embroidered and beaded fabrics,
inc tulles and chiffons.
We also offer a range of embroidered/beaded edgings and motifs, many designs with
crystals.
We will shortly be introducing a new product range of Bridal dress accessories,
including crystal and pearl buttons as well as crystal clasps and buckles.
Please check the website for latest developments.
We have no minimum order value or quantity.
Credit/Debit card payment accepted. Free monthly updates on stock availability
Email: [email protected] - www.michaelsbridalfabrics.co.uk
ATTIRE 89
Fit for a princess
We speak to Clare Wilson of Anellà Couture about the
label’s new Honour Prom collection, recently launched
at Harrogate…
T
he cultural influence of the US has led to
an explosion in the popularity of the high
school prom, and like many other labels Anellà
Couture spotted an opportunity to tap into this
market – giving girls the dresses they want, at an
affordable price, but without compromising too
much on quality in order to do so. “We also have
a retail shop, and last year that business took on
a prom line – but the dresses turned out to be
awful; we had so many problems with fit, as well
as faults such as zips breaking,” explains Clare
Wilson, owner of Anellà Couture. “We knew that
our bridalwear manufacturer in the Far East could
supply us with something better, so we opted to
create our own Honour Prom collection, which
comprises eight proper American-style prom
dresses with big skirts.”
The collection comes in a palette of around 30
trend-led colours, from bright oranges and blues
to more muted shades, and Clare is keen to point
out that new options are added if the firm receives
enough feedback from stores about demand for a
particular shade. The designs are also available in a
selection of bridal-appropriate ivories and whites,
making them also suitable for brides on a budget
– especially since some of the designs have the
option of a small train too. “Thanks to the dresses’
design structure, around the bodice, they suit all
figures,” explains Clare. “It doesn’t matter whether
the girl is big or small chested, our Honour Prom
collection will give her a beautiful shape. A girl
who’s a slim size 8 will find the dress gives her a
bustline, while larger girls will find the bodice gives
them plenty of support.”
The beauty of this collection is its versatility,
which makes it suitable for any retailer with a
clientele looking for a gown at a price point of
around £195, not just those who have a demand
from the prom market itself. The collection
certainly has a fairytale feel, whether in a neutral,
pastel or a jewel colour – and thanks to this wide
colour range a variety of tastes can be catered for.
“I think girls tend to choose a dress on personality
as well as what suits their figure,” adds Clare. “I’ve
found that the quieter girls opt for less outrageous
shades and styles, while the more confident ones
select the bigger, brighter alternatives. We’ve opted
to embellish the taffeta and satin with crystals,
because we know the girls want to feel like a
princess for the day – but we haven’t overdone it,
there aren’t masses of crystals, just enough to add
an elegant touch.”
As Honour Prom was only recently launched,
it’s still early days – but the firm reports a fabulous
response from the trade. “There are only eight
pieces within the collection, but our first stockist
ordered 18 pieces!” smiles Clare. “They said it’s the
best-made prom design they’d seen, because the
structure is there, the same as a wedding gown.
We’ve been so pleased with how the dresses have
been received, we’re already looking to expand the
collection in March, adding some shorter lengths,
and possibly some not-quite-so-full shapes, as well
as some new colours including fluorescent lime,
tangerine and bright coral.” A
Further information
To find out more about Anellà Couture’s
Honour Prom collection, call the company on
+44 (0)1954 263 030 or visit their website at
www.honourbridesmaids.co.uk
90 ATTIRE

waistcoats - Attire Bridal magazine

Transcription

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