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SPRING TOUR 2014 BALBIANELLO CIRCLE ROME MAY 23rd - 29th, 2014 RESERVED FOR THE MEMBERS OF THE BALBIANELLO CIRCLE Marella Agnelli Honorary Chairman Bona de’ Frescobaldi* International Chairman Lynn Forester de Rothschild Chairman of Advisory Trustees Maria Manetti Shrem Chairwoman of the Balbianello Circle Board of Advisory Trustees Giorgio Armani Giancarla Berti Anna Bulgari Laura Casalis Carla Comelli Giulia Maria Crespi* Chiara Ferragamo Audrey Gruss Gail Hilson Joan Hotchkis Maria Manetti Shrem Ann Nitze Paolo and Henrietta Pellegrini Marilyn Perry* Giorgio Poggiani* Roberta Ritter* Nancy Rubin Mariuccia Zerilli Marimò Board of Directors James M. Carolan President Sharleen Cooper Cohen Vice President Susan Bender Treasurer Giovanna Loredan Bonetti Andrea Carandini Celine Crosa di Vergagni Vannozza Guicciardini Merle Mullin Alessandra Pellegrini www.friendsoffai.org *Founders SPRING TOUR 2014 ROME Cari Amici, Friends of FAI is delighted to announce our 2014 Spring Tour of Rome. A traveler arriving in Rome in the 18th century would find himself in a city of churches, but also of numerous private palaces and villas. Three hundred years later you will have the same impression of this city. Rome was for centuries a monarchy by election, in which each Papal or Cardinal family rose to a sovereign or princely standing. It is necessary to bear this in mind in order not to be overwhelmed by a city with so many regal dwellings. Rome also has the historical precedent of having been for centuries the capital of a universal empire. As a result, all the references in the arts to past imperial glories could only contribute to a magnificence without comparison in all of Europe. Not only are the glories of ancient Rome visible in the Forum and elsewhere, but we can also view treasures from antiquity in the city’s private residences and collections. During our Roman journey, we will underline this continuity as we admire the richness of the marbles and ancient statues in the residence of Prince Colonna and in other noble homes. At the residence of Duca Sforza Cesarini we will visit the ancient Harbor of Emperor Trajan. We will also be received in a residence of the Knights of Malta in the Palazzo Orsini, built in the Renaissance on top of the Theater of Marcellus. The continuity of Roman life over two thousand years is also represented by the Jewish Community, the oldest in Europe, and the director of the Jewish Museum will greet us during our visit. Though a journey of a few days in Rome may seem too short, thanks to the hospitality of many friends, we will endeavor to offer you the best of every century. We will be received at the Castle of Prince Odescalchi on Lake Bracciano received by Donna Maria Pace Recchi Odescalchi; at Palazzo Borghese where Napoleon’s sister, Paolina Bonaparte, once lived; at Palazzo Lancellotti in the newly restored residence of Robert de Balkany; and in a modern garden designed by Russel Page for Contessa Sanminiatelli Odescalchi. Contemporary Art will also be a focus of our trip, with a visit to the celebrated Berlingieri Collection (a part of which we have already seen in Palermo), and to the Valsecchi Collection. Although many have already visited the Vatican, we will arrange a private, after-hours tour of its museums and the Sistine Chapel, so that we may enjoy their splendors in an exclusive setting. I hope that at the end of your visit you will agree with Petrarch, who wrote to a friend in 1350 after spending time as a guest of the Colonna family: “I no longer wonder that the whole world was conquered by this city but only that I was conquered so late.” Sincerely, Bona Frescobaldi International Chairman & James M. Carolan President Friday, May 23 Saturday, May 24 Day 1 Day 2 Arrival in Rome and transfer to the Hotel Eden Private visit to the gardens of Villa Medici Dinner at Circolo della Caccia received by Marchese and Marchesa Patrizi Naro Montoro The Circolo della Caccia was founded on November 7th, 1869 with the name “Circolo di San Carlo” due to its first location in front of the San Carlo church. Over the years the private club moved several times, finally settling in Palazzo Borghese in 1922. It is considered the most important Italian gentleman’s club; at the moment there are 800 members who are residents in Rome and elsewhere. Among its honorary members are the King of Spain, the King of Sweden, and the princes of European royal houses. Home to the Caccia, Palazzo Borghese was acquired around 1605 by Cardinal Camillo Borghese, just before he became Pope Paul V. Flaminio Ponzio was hired to enlarge the building and give it the grandeur appropriate to the residence of the pope’s family. He added a wing overlooking Piazza Borghese and the delightful porticoed courtyard inside. Subsequent enlargements included the building and decoration of a great nympheum known as the Bath of Venus. For more than two centuries this palazzo housed the Borghese family’s renowned collection of paintings, which was bought by the Italian state in 1902 and transferred to the Villa Borghese. The spectacular 16th century gardens and villa are situated in the heart of Rome, and offer a panoramic view of the city. Originally owned by the Crescenzi family, the villa was completely transformed between 1564 and 1575 by Nanni di Baccio Bigio and Annibale Lippi for Cardinal Giovanni Ricci da Montepulciano. Cardinal Ferdinando de’ Medici, who acquired the property in 1576, embellished and expanded the villa, adding a sculpture gallery to the right side. The shape of the property on which the villa was erected, a narrow strip of terraced land between the present Via del Pincio and the Aurelian Walls, delineates the layout of the garden which has a long avenue running parallel to the façade of the palace, rather than the usual perpendicular relationship. When the Hapsburgs succeeded the Medici for the Tuscan throne, the villa became part of the granducal property. Then, in 1804 the French Republic took possession of the villa, transforming it into the French Academy. Today, it provides studio space for French artists and is the site of temporary exhibitions and cultural events. Private visit to Palazzo Sacchetti, residence of Marchesa Sacchetti Cardinal Ricci da Montepulciano commissioned Nanni di Baccio Bigio with the construction of this palace in 1555. It stands on the site of the house where the architect Antonio da Sangallo the Younger (1483-1546) once lived. In the 17th century, the palazzo was purchased by the Sacchetti family. Palazzo Sacchetti is among Via Giulia’s most remarkable buildings, with its long façade adorned with decorated windows and a balcony over the main entrance. Between 1553 and 1554, Francesco Salviati decorated the hall of the piano nobile, known as the Map Room or the Cardinal’s Audience Hall. The family of the Marchesi Sacchetti, who still inhabit the palace, originated in Florence, with Isacco or Isachetto, at the beginning of the 11th century. By the beginning of the 14th century, the family was among the most powerful in all of Florence. In the second half of the 16th century, a branch of the family moved to Rome, giving many important prelates to the Church. Among the most illustrious members of the family were Cardinal Giulio (1626) and Cardinal Urbano (1681). The family once held the hereditary office of Foriere Maggiore dei Sacri Palazzi Apostolici (Hereditary Quartermaster General of the Sacred Apostolic Palace). Lunch at the residence of Giovanni and Valeria Giuliani and visit to their contemporary art collection Giovanni Giuliani’s collection of contemporary art is comprised of more than 300 works by Italian and international artists from the 1960s to the present. Featuring site-specific installations, sculpture, photography, video, and painting, the collection offers a significant view of the movements and trends that have contributed to the history of contemporary art. The collection includes works by leading Conceptual artists Robert Barry, Ilya Kabakov and Sol LeWitt; as well as major figures of the Arte Povera movement Giovanni Anselmo, Pier Paolo Calzolari and Jannis Kounellis. Also featured in the collection are works by Marina Abramovic, Anselm Kiefer, William Kentridge and Sam Taylor Wood among many others. Private visit to Vatican Museums The buildings that house one of the world's most important art collections were originally papal palaces built for Renaissance popes such as Sixtus IV, Innocent VIII and Julius II. The long courtyards and galleries, linking Innocent VIII's Belvedere Palace to the other buildings, were created by Donato Bramante, who was commissioned by Julius II in 1503. Most of the later additions to the buildings were made in the 18th century, when priceless works of art accumulated by earlier popes were first displayed. Indeed, four centuries of papal patronage and connoisseurship have resulted in one of the world's greatest collections of Classical and Renaissance art. The Vatican houses many of the great archaeological finds of central Italy, including the Laocoön group, discovered in 1506 on the Esquiline, the Apollo del Belvedere and the Etruscan bronze known as the Mars of Todi. Pope Julius II commissioned Raphael Sanzio, a brilliant 25-year-old painter from central Italy, with the redecoration (15071517) of these four grand rooms. These measures provided the pope an alternative to occupying the papal apartment downstairs, which had been created by his detested Borgia predecessor Alexander VI. The Stanze, which became Pope Julius II's reception rooms, are famous for the frescoes of the Fire in the Borgo, the Dispute Over the Blessed Sacrament, and the School of Athens. Dinner at Palazzo Patrizi received by Marchese and Marchesa Corso Patrizi Naro Montoro Located in front of the Church of San Luigi dei Francesi, Palazzo Patrizi boasts a splendid vestibule, along with a beautiful staircase and a small, original courtyard, formed by a portico of ancient Roman granite columns. Giacomo della Porta is believed to have been responsible for much of the decoration that was completed in 1611. In 1642 the palace was acquired by the Marchesi Patrizi, a family from Siena who had inherited from the Naro family the title of Vessilliferi (flag holders) della Santa Romana Chiesa in the Pontifical Court. The collection of paintings was amassed thanks in large part to the passion and patronage of two papal treasurers: Costanzo Patrizi (1589-1624) and Giovanni Battista Patrizi (1658-1727). Both the first and second piano nobile are beautifully decorated with Roman furniture and objects. When Cunegonda, Princess of Saxe, married Marchese Patrizi at the end of the 18th century, she brought a famous service of Saxe porcelain into the family, similar to those brought to Rome during the same period by her sisters (Marchesa Massimo and Principessa Altieri). One peculiarity of the palace is a room in the neo-Gothic style, which was created at the end of the last century by one of the Marchesi Patrizi who was very devoted to Saint Francis of Assisi. The palace is now inhabited by Marchesa Teresa Patrizi Frescobaldi, and by her children Sofia, Patrizio, Corso and their families. Sunday, May 25 Monday, May 26 Day 3 Day 4 Private visit to Castello di Torre in Pietra received by Professor Andrea Carandini, president of FAI Coffee at Villa Polissena received by H.S.H Princess Mafalda of Hesse Torre in Pietra was bought in 1590 by Camilla Peretti, the sister of Pope Sisto V. It was his nephew, Michele Peretti, who built the palace on the grounds of the medieval Castrum. In 1619, he employed the architect Francesco Peperelli to carry out the project, and the palace still retains most of its 17th century features. In 1639, the Peretti family sold the castle to the Princes Falconieri, who kept it for over two centuries. At the beginning of the 18th century, the Falconieri transformed the appearance of both the interior and some of the exterior, commissioning two of the main artists of their time: the architect Ferdinando Fuga, and the painter Pier Leone Ghezzi. The medieval church was demolished and rebuilt according to the plans of Fuga, with frescoes by Ghezzi, who also decorated the interior of the castle with scenes celebrating the visit of Pope Benedict XIII. Lunch at Porto received by Duca and Duchessa Ascanio Sforza Cesarini and visit to the Imperial Harbor Dinner at Palazzo Lancellotti received by Robert de Balkany Palazzo Lancellotti stands on Piazzetta San Simeone. Commissioned by Cardinal Scipione Lancellotti, it was built at the end of the 16th century, on the ruins of much older buildings. It was designed by Francesco da Volterra, and completed by Carlo Maderno. The facade is composed of ashlar stonework, columns decorating the main entrance, and a balcony crowning the doorway, designed by Il Domenichino. On three sides, the palazzo displays a long line of architrave windows, crowned by a beautiful cornice, and on the ashlar corners, two wonderful sacred shrines supported by angels, which date to the 18th century. In the beautiful inner courtyard decorated with marble and stucco, one finds a large staircase leading up to the inner reception halls of the piano nobile. Agostino Tassi, a prominent artist of the time who specialized in landscapes, frescoed the main hall of the palace. His frescoes give the impression of open windows overlooking the sea. Drink at the residence of Marchese and Marchesa Berlingieri and visit to their contemporary art collection Considered to be the most important collectors of contemporary art in Rome, the Berlingieri’s collection features works by artists Donald Judd, Andy Warhol, Cy Twombly, Anselm Kiefer, Damien Hirst, and Alberto Burri, among many others. Their collection is housed within their elegant apartment in the Parioli area of Rome Lunch at the residence of Mila Brachetti Peretti Drink at Palazzo Ruspoli received by Contessa Daniela d'Amelio Memmo This Palazzo Ruspoli originally belonged to the Jacobilli family, who began construction on the palace around 1556. It was then acquired by an affluent Florentine family, the Rucellai, who commissioned celebrated Florentine architect Bartolomeo Ammanati (who designed the courtyard of Palazzo Pitti in Florence) to expand the palace. The main marble staircase, designed by Martino Longhi il Giovane, is celebrated as the most beautiful in Rome. The ground floor is now occupied by the Memmo Foundation, which organizes didactic exhibitions there. Purchased in 1713 by the Ruspoli family, the palazzo was extended along via Bocca di Leone all the way to via del Leoncino (c. 1780). The palazzo's interior is just as impressive. Aside from a series of rooms with friezes, the grandiose gallery frescoed by Jacopo Zucchi representing the Genealogy of the Gods, is one of the masterpieces of Florentine Mannerism in Rome. The apartments of the first and second floors, which house the Zucchi Gallery, are furnished with paintings, statues and furniture of high quality. All these masterpieces, some of which were already in the palazzo and property of the Ruspoli family, are today part of the Memmo collection. Dinner at Palazzo Borghese received by Pietro and Camilla Valsecchi and visit to their contemporary art collection Palazzo Borghese was acquired in 1604 by Cardinal Camillo Borghese who offered it to his brothers when he was elected pope the same year. Intended as a symbol of the power and glory of the pontifical family in the very heart of Rome, it was begun in 1560 by Martino Longhi and completed by Flaminio Ponzio, who designed the beautiful courtyard and the riverfront façade. Around 1670 the palace was extensively remodeled by Carlo Rinaldi, who rebuilt the façade facing the piazza and redesigned the gardens. The resulting irregular shape has Tuesday, May 27 Day 5 earned it the nickname cembalo (“the harpsichord”). The Borghese family originated in Siena. They acquired great wealth and status thanks to Pope Paul V Borghese, who endowed his nephews with prodigious fortunes, quickly transforming them into the wealthiest landowners in all of Lazio. The Aldobrandini and Salviati patrimonies, which merged together with the estates of the Borghese, rendered this family legendary for its wealth and magnificence until the end of the 19th century. Paolina Bonaparte, sister of Napoleon, was married to Camillo Borghese in 1803, and lived in the palace for several years. Still owned by the Borghese, the palace is also the home of the Circolo della Caccia Visit to Museo della Sinagoga received by Alessandra di Castro and visit to the Ghetto The Jewish Museum of Rome, located in the monumental building of the Great Synagogue, was opened in 1960 to display the collections of the Jewish Community of Rome. The collection includes Roman silverware from the 17th and 18th century, precious textiles from all over Europe, illustrated parchments and marble carvings that were salvaged when the Cinque Scole, the five synagogues of the Ghetto, were demolished. On November 22, 2005 the Museum reopened to the public, after extensive renovations. There are seven completely new exhibition areas, and an educational itinerary that highlights the magnificent artifacts and precious documents that narrate the over 2000 year history of the Jews of Rome, the relationship between the Jews and the city, the yearly cycle of Jewish Holidays and the Jewish life cycle. The Museum is a unique place to discover the traditions, religion and history of Roman Jews, one of the oldest Jewish communities of the world. Private visit to Palazzo Orsini received by Conte and Contessa de Liedekerke at the residence of the Knights of Malta The Theatre of Marcellus stood at the heart of the ancient city, in the monumental zone where enormous buildings crowded side by side along the city blocks, forming a towering spectacle that must have astonished and stupefied the foreigners who made their way into the great city by one of its sixteen gates. During the Middle Ages the area around the theatre was the most densely populated of the city. It was of strategic importance, since it dominated the three bridges that joined the city to the Tiber Island and thus to Trastevere. In 1535 the Savelli family, a powerful noble house, had a new palace built atop the ancient Theatre of Marcellus. They commissioned architect Baldassare Peruzzi, who was in Rome that year for the last time in his life. When the last heir of the ancient Savelli family died in 1712, the palace came into the possession of the Sforza Cesarini family. It then became the property of Domenico Orsini, prince of Gravina Brunch at Palazzo Orsini Visit to the Giardino San Liberato received by Contessa Sanminiatelli The church and garden of San Liberato, once owned by notable art historian Conte Sanminiatelli, is set on a ledge with magnificent views over Lake Bracciano and the Rocca Romana beyond. Originally the site of a Roman market town among a forest of chestnut trees, a new house was built on the hillside. Russell Wednesday, May 28 Day 6 Page came to work here in 1964 after the garden had been started by Contessa Sanminiatelli. At first, Page concentrated on planting around the site of an ancient Romanesque church, terracing it with low walls and narrow paths to make a series of rectangular beds in a medieval style. The arboretum, laid out by Conte Sanminiatelli and Russell Page in an adjacent meadow, is very interesting. Page wrote “I know of no other garden more magical than this . . . the simple planes of the gardens, the sloping woods and fields where even the details . . . have come together in silent harmony”. Private visit to the Castle of Prince Odescalchi on Lake Bracciano received by Donna Maria Pace Recchi Odescalchi Castello Odescalchi served as the administrative and feudal seat of the the families who owned it, and one can observe the castle’s six hundred year history in the weapons, paintings, frescoes, books and manuscripts, contained within its walls. After witnessing centuries of popes and kings, weddings and sieges, the castle began a new chapter thanks to efforts of Prince Baldassarre Odescalchi and the architect Raffaello Ojetti, who elected to restore the castle in the early 20th century. They undertook a meticulous campaign to restore the original beauty of the stones, the splendor of the halls, and the quiet elegance of the gardens. The castle has been open to the public since 1952, in accordance with Livio IV Odescalchi’s wishes. In addition to serving as a museum, the castle also hosts a number of events that promote the castle’s artistic and cultural patrimony, and enable the site to continue important maintenance and restoration programs. Thanks to the careful management of Princess Maria Pace Odescalchi, the castle’s conservation is assured while permitting full access to the site for tourists, scholars and researchers. Private visit to Palazzo Colonna residence of Principe Colonna The Colonna princes have lived in the original buildings on these grounds for almost one thousand years. During this millennium, the family took a leading role in the Roman aristocracy, hosting popes, emperors, and kings, and playing a central part in the political development of the State of the Church. The most sumptuous and regal palace in Rome, the present complex was begun in the period of the Colonna Pope, Martin V (1417-1431), upon the structure of the palazzina, with ceilings frescoed by Pinturicchio, where the Cardinal della Rovere lived at one time. The palace was later expanded by the architect Nicolò Michetti in 1730. The glorious gallery was designed (1703) to celebrate the glories of the family, including the feats of Marc’Antonio Colonna, who led the victorious Christian forces at the battle of Lepanto. The Private Apartments, usually closed to the public, are also built on a truly enormous scale. The Palazzo Colonna has been celebrated by the famous French traveller Charles de Brosses for “its rich furniture, its Orange Grove, and above all for its superb Gallery, which is even preferable to that of Versailles”. The picture gallery boasts a magnificent collection - including works by Carracci, Guercino, Poussin, Tintoretto, Ribera, and many others - largely put together by Lorenzo Onofrio Colonna under the guidance of the painter Carlo Maratta, and expanded by later family members. Private visit to Villa Colonna and drink at the Orangerie of Villa Colonna residence of Duca Aslan Sanfelice di Bagnoli Lunch Private visit to Palazzo Pallavicini and to Casino dell'Aurora Pallavicini received by Principessa Pallavicini The grand complex of Palazzo Pallavicini Rospigliosi, built on the ruins of the bath of Emperor Constantine, stands on the Quirinal Hill. Cardinal Scipione Borghese commissioned Flaminio Ponzio with the construction in 1605, which was eventually finished by Carlo Maderno in 1606. The palace, once owned and expanded by Cardinal Giulio Mazzarino and his heirs, was purchased by the Pallavicini Rospigliosi in 1704, and is still owned by that family. The piano nobile houses the Galleria Pallavicini, one of the most important collections in all of Rome. During this period, Nicolò Pallavicini (friend of Peter Paul Rubens) began the nucleus of the collection, together with his son Cardinal Lazaro (1602-1680). Later, the marriage of Maria Camilla Thursday, May 29 Day 7 Pallavicini (1670) to G. B. Rospigliosi, nephew of Pope Clement IX, brought together the great collections of these two families. In the secluded garden of the Palazzo Pallavicini Rospigliosi is hidden an elaborate 17th century casino. The great courtyard in front of the palazzo leads to a secret garden in which, towards the Piazza of the Quirinale, is set the delicate casino edifice designed by Vasanzio and named for Aurora, the goddess of dawn. The casino consists of a large state room opened by arches on one side, with two other rooms forming slight projections. The façade is adorned with classical bas-reliefs, and inside is the famous ceiling fresco of Aurora Leading the Chariot of Apollo, painted by Guido Reni between 1613 and 1614, one of the most visited masterpieces in Rome. Drink at Palazzo Doria Pamphilj received by Principe Jonathan Doria Pamphilj In 1644 Giovanni Battista Pamphilj became Pope, assuming the name of Innocent X. During his 10-year reign, he substantially enriched his family, especially his domineering sister-in-law, Olimpia Maidalchini. Known as the “talking statue” Pasquino nicknamed her “Olim-Pia”, Latin for “formerly virtuous”. She lived in the grand Palazzo Pamphilj, which contains frescoes by Pietro da Cortona and a gallery by Borromini. The building is now the Brazilian Embassy. Private visit to Galleria Doria Pamphilj This palace, which still belongs to the Doria Pamphilj, is among the largest mansions in Rome. The palace is actually a combination of several buildings, and includes seven courtyards. Located on the Via del Corso, it was constructed in the early 16th century for Cardinal Santoro. It subsequently came into the Aldobrandini family, and then the Pamphilj family, whose name was extinguished when the last daughter married into the powerful Doria family of Genoa. Antonio del Grande extended the palace toward the Collegio Romano around 1660, and in 1734 it was restructured and given a new façade on Via del Corso by Valvassori. The piano nobile houses the celebrated gallery, which exhibits the fiduciary collection of paintings in the superb setting of the original furnishings. The gallery contains works by artists such as Raphael, Annibale Carracci, Titian, Tintoretto, Caravaggio, Velázquez, Breughel, Guido Reni, and Claude Lorrain. The family recently restored the gallery, hanging the paintings according to the original 18th century layout. Gala dinner at at Palazzo Doria Pamphilj received by Principe Jonathan Doria Pamphilj Depart from Rome airport Lecturer Maria Cristina Paoluzzi We will be accompanied on the tour by Mrs. Maria Cristina Paoluzzi, who will help us to refine our appreciation of the historic and artistic curiosities and wonders that we will be seeing. Maria Cristina Paoluzzi, now director of the Roman office of the auction house Dorotheum, has been a Professor since 2000 at the University of Chieti, where she teaches the History of Prints and Drawings. She was born in Rome and educated at the University of “La Sapienza”. In 1992 she received her degree in Art History, and in 1996 she received her Diploma of Specialization in the History of Medieval and Modern Art attained with 70/70 summa cum laude at the same University. In 2003 she received her PhD at the University of Rome “La Sapienza”. Research: Ciro Ferri, the catalogue of a baroque painter. From 2003-2004 she was a Fellow at the University of Chieti, G. d’Annunzio, where she researched Devotional Painting in the XVII Century in the Abruzzi Region. In 2008-2009 she has been teaching as Contract Professor at the University of Milan, L. Bocconi “History of Modern Art” Since 1994, she has worked with the Ministry of Foreign Aff airs in organizing historical programs and conferences for diplomats residing in Rome, and she has worked with several politicians and international personalities on offi cial business to Italy, including President George Bush, Sonia Gandhi, Simon Perez, The Royal Families of Belgium, England and Sweden, and President Gorbachev among others. Paoluzzi has written several publications and organized seminars, courses, conferences. She worked as lecturer for historical itineraries and tours organized by A Private View of Italy for the most important international foundations and museums from the United States and other countries (including: the Patrons of the Arts of the Vatican Museum, the World Monuments Fund, the Library of Congress of Washington, the Metropolitan Opera of New York, the Whitney Museum of American Art, the Detroit Institute of Arts, the Philadelphia Museum of Art, the SFMoma, the Los Angeles County Museum, the Dallas Museum of Art, the Art Institute of Chicago and the Peggy Guggenheim Foundation of Venice). Program subject to change For further information, please contact: Lucy Hill at Friends of FAI +1 212-242-3377 [email protected] or Stefano Aluffi-Pentini at A Private View of Italy +39-06-4821120 +39-06-4741985 [email protected]