Hacksaw Tom Legend of Queho Streets of Tombstone Visitors To

Dezert
Vol. 1, Issue 3 | July 2011
m a g a z i n e
Hacksaw Tom
Legend of Queho
Streets of Tombstone
Visitors To The Meadows
Dezert
Featu resc on ten ts
m a g a z i n e
Vol. 1, Issue 3 | July 2011
Dezert
Vol. 1, Issue 3 | July 2011
On The Cover
Showing the architecture
and artistry of long ago, the
Mission of San Xavier Del Bac
is still a sight to behold.
Photo by John Grasson
Editor In Chief
Jahn Grasson
m a g a z i n e
Associate Baja Editor
David Kier
Art Director
Mikey Ornelas
The Naked Man
Shaman’s Cave Visit
Wildflower Photography
Trona Gem-O-Rama
Contact John Grasson for
4 Desert Landscapes Present A
Challenge To Photographers
By Ernie Cowan
10 The Legend Of Hacksaw Tom
By George Johnston
14 The Legend Of Queho
By Greg Niemann
22 Day Hike In Rockhouse Valley
Advertising Oppurtunities
Customer Service Inquires, and
Comments or Suggestions,
at
[email protected]
Please submit Letters To Editor to
[email protected].
Contact Art Director at
[email protected]
By Bob Baron
26 From The Pages Of Wikipedia
Mission San Xavier Del Bac
Courtesy of Wikipedia
30 The Stohler Treasure
By John Grasson
34 The Silver That Saved Nevada
By Ted Faye
40 The Streets Of Tomstone
By John Grasson
48 Visitors To The Meadows
By Greg Niemann
The opinions expressed in the editorials
are those of the writers and do not
necessarily reflect the views of Dezert
Magazine. While every effort is made to
ensure accuracy, we cannot supervise the
way in which information found in Dezert
Magazine is used.
Dezert Magazine is published 4 times a
year by John Grasson
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prohibited. All submitted materials, including
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Desert Landscapes
Present a Challenge to Photographers
By Ernie Cowan
I’ve been leading desert
photo tours for years and I
always begin with a warning
to my students to “beware of
Phuggles”. If you are ever
going to become a respectable
landscape photographer, you
must avoid Phuggles.
“What’s a Phuggle,”
you ask?
PhotoS
(From left to Right) 17 Palms, Font’s Point and Collins Valley.
All locations are located in Anza Borrego State Park. Photos courtesy of Ernie Cowan.
We will talk about that later.
The harsh sun, barren terrain, challenging
access, muted colors and sometimes-painful
vegetation can make photography in the
desert frequently disappointing. But a little
experience and understand of some simple
tips and techniques can turn your desert
landscape photography from snapshot into
wow images.
images. The message is diluted. Simplify the
photograph by eliminating anything that
does not add to the clear visual message you
are creating.
Learn the elements of composition that make
an image more powerful. Use lines, image
size, contrast, shapes, and subject placement
to create more emphasis. A photograph
is a two-dimensional record of a three
dimensional world. To create depth, use
items to frame your subject. A fencepost,
tree, cactus or window frame will provide a
foreground frame.
Unlike mountain landscapes, the desert
geography is barren and naked. Instead
of trees and shrubbery to frame an image
or provide scale, you will look for rocks or
leading lines created by a winding desert
wash. Rarely will you have a bubbling stream
or sparkling lake in your desert images.
Here are a few additional tips to
Remember that as the photographic artist,
you are an interpreter. You capture a scene
and the only information that the viewer has
is what you have included in your image.
Most photographers include too much in their
6 July 2011 Dezert Magazine
of what you want them to look at. If it is a
landscape, raise the horizon line to reduce
the sky. If it’s a dramatic skyscape, lower
the horizon line. This will improve the wow
factor of your images.
Shoot early or late. Landscape photography
during the middle of the day is often quite
boring. The harsh, flat light and muted colors
of the sandy landscape make for a flat
image. It might be a nice memory, but would
never win a contest or find a place on the
family room wall.
Early morning and late afternoon light is
strongly directional. Strong shadows are
remember when shooting in the desert. created that bring a landscape to life with
distant mountains casting shadows, the rugged
terrain accentuated by light and shadows.
Avoid horizon lines cutting through the
Colors are more vivid and frequently the air
middle of your image. Mass creates
is clearer in the mornings and dramatic clouds
emphasis in a photograph. If your horizon
cuts the image in half, the viewer has no hint develop in the later hours.
When you find an interesting subject such as
a desert wildflower or beautiful cactus, take
a moment to walk around the subject. You
might find that a strong cross light or even a
dramatic backlight is a much more beautiful
image to capture that direct sunlight.
Learn to use the histogram on your digital
camera to determine if you have exposed
well. Desert landscape photography can
often fool a light meter. Understanding
your histogram and using it in the field
can be a big help in getting a propertyexposed image.
Use a tripod whenever possible. A camera
on a sturdy tripod will always yield sharper
images. Mounting the camera on a tripod
will also allow you to compose a scene, step
back and even walk around to see if there
might be a better vantage point. Using a
tripod will improve the quality of your work,
and learn how to use your manual camera
adjustments to better control exposure,
depth-of-field and subject emphasis.
We have only touched on the important
aspects of good landscape photography
in these few paragraphs. There is so much
more to learn to master the art of desert
The flat desert is also challenging to capture if landscape photography. The Anza-Borrego
you stay at ground level. A desert landscape Foundation offers a variety of desert
image can often be improved with just a few
photography workshops and I would enjoy
feet of elevation. Climbing on a rock, the top having you join us. Visit www.theabf.org to
of your car or hiking to the top of a nearby
view a list of workshops as they are posted
dune can provide a more sweeping and
for next season. Calumet Photographic also
exciting view of the landscape.
offers desert photo tours as a partner with
the Anza-Borrego Foundation. You can view
the workshop schedule by clicking the events
tab at the Calumet website. You can also
submit your outdoor photography questions
to Dezert Magazine and I will be happy to
answer them.
Oh yes, I almost forgot telling you about
Phuggles.
If you are a reader of Harry Potter books,
there is reference there to Muggles. They
are ordinary people with no magical
powers. Phuggles are photographers with
no magical powers.
My classic example was watching a car
screech to a stop at the rim of the Grand
Canyon. A man jumped out, snapped two
pictures and hollered, “I’ve photographed
the Grand Canyon, let’s go.”
That’s a Phuggle.
July 2011 Dezert Magazine 7
Customized, photographic opportunity tours in and
near the Joshua Tree National Park, the Mojave
National Preserve and adjacent Desert regions,
plus Desert Ecology and Historic/Cultural tours.
760-910-1420
www.mojavedesertexcursions.com
Don’t Leave Your Home on tHe range.
Illegal dumping can force public land managers to close
access to your favorite places. Keep your public lands open to the
public by reporting illegal dumping when you see it happening.
This Public service AnnouncemenT is Powered by
Many stories have been told, re-told and written about the
Apache Trail, a wonder of engineering that winds its way around
the Superstition Mountains in Arizona. The Trail begins in Apache
Junction makes a long loop past three lakes (Canyon, Apache and
Roosevelt). The 135-miles drive takes one to the historic city of
Globe and winds up where one started, in Apache Junction. The trip
takes between 5 to 8 hours depending on how many times you stop
to enjoy endless, changing vistas of desert and canyon country.
The
Legend
of
Hacksaw
Tom
By George Johnston
Just beyond a little town named Tortilla Flat
(with a population of 6 and some say, the
best hamburgers and coldest beer in Arizona)
the road turns to gravel and dirt for 24 miles
to Roosevelt Dam.
Photo
Show of the artifacts found in Tom’s Cave on display at the Superstition
Mountain Museum, located on the Apache Trail in Apache Junction, AZ.
12 July 2011 Dezert Magazine
One of the most persistent tales told in the
early days about the wonders of the Trail
was the one told about “Hacksaw Tom”, a
highwayman of sorts who made his mark
on the folklore of the Superstitions. From
his hideout somewhere near the bottom of
Fish Creek Hill (one of the most beautiful
places along the entire drive) he preyed on
travelers en route to the dam, and beyond.
He was also alleged to have robbed several
teamsters, hauling freight to the dam from
Mesa, where the Trail originally began and
which was the jumping-off place for those
who had business on the route, especially
during the construction of Roosevelt Dam at
the turn of the 20th Century.
events, a number of people who reportedly
did not know each other, related uncanny
similar details throughout the years.
In any case, Hacksaw Tom would emerge
from his hideout somewhere in the boulders
and canyons of some of the roughest country
in world and, with his trusty sawed-off
shotgun would relieve the passengers of
their valuables. He wore a mask made of a
flour sack, rough clothing and went about his
business, subsequently disappearing into the
convoluted canyon. He fled on foot, a horse
being almost useless in that terrain. By the
time word would get to the sheriff and the
sheriff got to the scene, Hacksaw Tom was
long gone.
• A mask made from a flour sack
labeled “Mesa Cooperative
Mill-Mesa”, Arizona Territory.
• Two luggage tie-down straps
from a stagecoach.
• A sawed-off shotgun
• An Edison light bulb
• Several cartridges
• A box of caps for brass cartridges
• A match box with matches
• A kerosene lamp chimney
• A large jar half full of beans
• A bottle of horse liniment
• Two horse bridle rosettes
• A small monkey wrench
• Several locks, keys and appears to
be a home-made lock pick
• A host of other items apparently
taken from victims.
His made travel on the Apache Trail,
between about l905 and l915 interesting,
to be sure, but no one was every physically
harmed by him, no shots were ever fired
during the encounters, He was called
Hacksaw Tom by the sheriff who believed
he might have been an escaped prisoner
from Globe who had used a hacksaw to aid
him in making his getaway. Hacksaw Tom
subsequently disappeared and was never
identified nor seen or heard from again.
The cave contained an old military
wagon. Over the years it slowly
disappeared as it was removed bit by bit
by souvenir hunters. Twenty years later,
the original discovers returned to the cave
and noticed a depression in the ground
where the wagon had been. Digging into
the depression, resulted in finding an old,
decaying carpet bag about a foot below
the surface. The contents of the bag
contained the following:
Your
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Advertise with us to get your
message to the right people
right now!
E-mail
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For more information on
advertising possibilities!
Evidently Hacksaw Tom, like “The Dutchman”,
Jacob Waltz, really did exist!
EDITOR NOTE:
These items are all on display
In l958 a cave was found just off the Apache
at the Superstition Mountain
Trail, near where wagons, stages and the
Museum, located on the Apache
like, were reduced to a crawl and while no
Trail in Apache Junction, AZ.
documentation exists to substantiate these
www.superstitionmountainmuseum.org
July 2011 Dezert Magazine 13
Settlers
Feared
Renegade
Indian
The
Legend
of
Queho
By Greg Niemann
The life of renegade Indian
Queho (Kay-ho) is full of legend
and supposition. History isn’t
even sure who he was. Western
lore has offered numerous
accounts through the years,
but they all agree on only one
salient fact—he was a killer!
Queho went to nearby Searchlight and was hired by a woodcutter
named J.M. Woodworth, who set him to work cutting trees on Timber
Mountain. Somehow, Woodworth angered Queho, (one account says
it was over pay) and he reacted by grabbing a piece of timber and
fatally bashing in Woodworth’s skull. Another account says Queho
shot Woodworth.
How many people he killed is up for speculation as he was often
given credit, if one can call it that, for almost every unsolved
murder committed in southern Nevada during the early part of the
20th century.
A posse was formed under the leadership of Deputy Sheriff Howe.
At the Woodworth killing site they found the distinctive print left
by Queho’s clubfoot. The tracks led the posse down the Eldorado
Canyon to the Gold Bug mine. At the mine, Howe and his posse
found the body of L.W. “Doc” Gilbert, the watchman, who had been
shot in the back. They noted that his special deputy badge No. 896
had been ripped from his shirt and taken. The trail continued down
Eldorado Canyon toward the Colorado River, where the crippled
Indian eluded them.
There are numerous accounts even as to his tribal affiliation. He’s
been called a Cocopah, Mojave, Chemehuevi or Paiute. Most
accounts contend he was of “mixed blood”, his mother a Cocopah,
while his father rumored to have been a Mexican miner, a white
soldier, or even a neighboring Paiute.
Nevada State Police Sergeant Newgard, called in to continue
the search, went to Eldorado Canyon with several Indian trackers
and two experienced hunters. Occasionally they uncovered the
characteristic clubfoot track, but they could not find the renegade
Indian. They returned to Las Vegas in February 1911.
Queho was born around 1880 near Nelson in Eldorado Canyon and
his mother died shortly after giving birth. It is said that he was born
with a club foot, although some accounts speculate that he may have
broken his foot or leg later in life. Either way, his deformity was easy
to track.
Over the next few years, the Queho legend continued to grow,
and his name struck the fear of the “bogeyman” into the hearts
of all. Throughout the area, Queho was blamed for missing cattle,
unexplained thefts, and mysterious murders. Lone prospectors
and sheepherders were found dead in isolated areas. In those
cases, the victims’ shoes and food supplies were usually stolen,
something Queho would have done. Fear and rumors ran rampant
along the river.
The club foot from birth version is most likely, as that, along with
his mixed blood, would have made him an outcast by the local
tribe. Queho was raised on a reservation near Las Vegas and
from boyhood worked as a ranch laborer or helped out in some
of the nearby mining camps. He was considered sullen, moody,
and quick-tempered.
Stories of his troubles with the law soon crept out. It is said that
he shot his half-brother, another outlaw Indian, in the back on
Cottonwood Island. While not proven, it is said he was involved in the
death of another Indian in 1897.
But it was years later that his notoriety took on a new and more
violent nature. In November 1910, Queho was the main suspect in a
slaying of the Indian Harry Bismark during a brawl on the Las Vegas
reservation. Queho went on the run and allegedly murdered two
Paiute Indians when he stole their horses in his escape.
Before heading out, he stopped for supplies in Las Vegas and got
into an argument with merchant Hy Von. Wielding a pick handle,
Queho broke both the man’s arms and fractured his skull. From
there he fled to Nelson and the many rocky nooks and crannies of
Eldorado Canyon where he eluded a small posse.
16 July 2011 Dezert Magazine
In 1913, local newspapers blamed Queho for the death of a
100-year-old blind Indian known as Canyon Charlie. Charlie’s few
provisions and food were missing, so some thought Queho did it.
Others, however, doubted that Queho was responsible as Charlie
was his friend and confidant.
A few months later two more miners working claims at Jenny Springs
were found shot in the back and their provisions stolen. These
murders, too, were blamed on the illustrious outlaw. An Indian woman
found dead a short time later was also blamed on the renegade.
As the hysteria grew, so did the rewards until $2,000 was offered
for his capture, “Dead or Alive”. The Searchlight Bulletin fanned the
flames of discontent by advocating and reminding all that “A good
Indian is a dead Indian”.
In January 1919, two prospectors named William Hancock and
Eather Taylor were found shot dead near their camp on the Muddy
River. They were robbed of their shoes. Queho was immediately the
prime suspect.
July 2011 Dezert Magazine 17
Then some Indians came forward claiming to
be Queho’s heirs. Meanwhile the body sat in
the Palm Funeral Home and continued to amass
storage fees for three long years. When the due
bill was presented, both Kenyon and the Indians
decided it wasn’t so important after all.
It turns out that Queho’s most ardent pursuer
Frank Wait paid the bill and gave the remains
and artifacts to the Las Vegas Elks Club, who
put the body on display, even propping him up
for a ride in one of the Las Vegas Helldorado
parades. The Elks even built a glass case and
recreated a “cave” to exhibit the body and
artifacts where they remained until the early
1950s.
Sometime later, Queho’s remains were found
discarded in a wash that had been used as a
dump. Then there was private ownership of the
remains for years. Finally, on Nov. 6, 1975,
Queho’s body was finally interred on a private
ranch at Cathedral Canyon near Pahrump, Nev.
Queho was credited with the deaths of 23
people, becoming the state’s first mass murderer.
About a week later, on Jan. 21, 1919,
an Eldorado Canyon miner’s wife, Maude
Douglas, was awakened in the night by a
noise in the kitchen at the rear of the cabin.
When her husband heard a shotgun blast,
he found her shot in the chest. Next to her
body were canned goods piled up as if
they were in the process of being taken.
When authorities arrived at the cabin near
the Techatticup Mine, they attributed the
murder to Queho as they allegedly found
his footprints around the cabin. Though a
four-year-old boy in Maude’s care said
that the woman had been killed by her
husband, no one listened, immediately
resuming the chase for the elusive Indian
renegade once again.
In March 1919, the reward for Queho’s
capture was increased to $3,000, with
Arizona officials, Clark County, and private
individuals adding to Nevada’s $2,000.
Southern Nevada Sheriff Sam Gay ordered
Deputy Frank Wait to round up a posse and
hire the best trackers to once and for all kill
18 July 2011 Dezert Magazine
Then, on Feb. 18, 1940, prospectors Charley
Kenyon and brothers Art and Ed Schroeder
found the remains of a dead Indian in a
shallow cave high up the riverbank, about
10 miles south of Hoover Dam and upriver
from Eldorado Canyon. The mummified body
The fugitive status of Queho was
abetted, not only by fellow Indians, but a of an Indian male who had apparently died
few whites as well, including Murl Emery, of a rattlesnake bite was found along with
a Winchester 30/30 rifle, clothing, cooking
the legendary Colorado River ferry
operator at Nelson’s landing. Emery saw utensils, tools, and a special Deputy badge,
No. 896. Blasting caps and dynamite that
him “many times”, came to like him, and
developed a “leave him alone” attitude. could only have been taken from the dam
Emery himself lived to old age in nearby site found in the cave indicated he was alive
Nelson, where even into the 1970s, in the at least until the early 1930s.
“live and let live” West, the townspeople
A few days later on Feb. 21, 1940, the
treated the crusty old man as the
headlines in the Las Vegas Review-Journal
unofficial “Mayor of Nelson”.
read “Body of Indian Found”.
But the renegade Queho had vanished,
Queho’s remains were taken to a funeral
although there were alleged sightings over
home in Las Vegas and Charles Kenyon, who
the years, including someone reporting
had first found the body, demanded the
seeing him walking down Fremont Street
reward. After the 20-plus-year-old rewards
in February 1930. For years Queho was
were ignored, Kenyon demanded possession
not seen nor heard from and settlers were
of the body.
sleeping better.
or capture Queho. The intensive manhunt
lasted almost two months, and all they found
were two more skeletons that they attributed
to Queho as well.
According to writer Ray Chessan, “Just
how many people Queho killed, and under
what circumstances, will probably never be
known. During the course of his career, he
was accused of practically every murder
committed in the vicinity of Eldorado Canyon.”
PhotoS
Left Page
Queho Posse.
Top Right
Posse with
Queho remains.
All photos are
part of the
UNLV Special
Collection.
Senator Harry Reid (D.-NV) devoted an entire
chapter to Queho in his 1998 book, Searchlight,
The Camp that Didn’t Fail. He noted that his
grandparents, John and Harriet Reid, had an
encounter with the Indian in October 1910, when
he galloped toward them with a Winchester rifle
in his saddle. They exchanged greetings, then
went on their respective ways. They realized
later that it was Queho coming down from Timber
Mountain where a murder had just occurred. The
reign of terror and uneasiness generated by
Queho’s deliberate and vicious murders made
him a legend. Time distorts reality and there are
people who give him “cult status”, and envision
him as a Robin Hood, or a Ché, or a Pancho Villa,
or even the violent mobsters who later came to
Las Vegas to begin their own nefarious legends.
To purchase this book, visit
www.gregniemann.com
July 2011 Dezert Magazine 19
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us to get your
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right people
right now!
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It’s lIke shootIng ourselves In the foot!
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name to it. Help protect the reputation of responsible hunters and
shooters by not leaving your signature and by reporting vandalism.
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Photo
Trail to Rockhouse Canyon
Day
Hike in
Rockhouse
Valley
Story and Photos
By Bob Baran
Photos
Left photo - Group Photo. Center photo - Rock Foundations. Right photo - Going over map with John and Elena.
I had barely rinsed off the dirt and dust from our
Thanksgiving trip to Carrizo Gorge, when we found
ourselves heading back out to Anza Borrego to
meet up with a couple friends for a day hike. Our
destination this time was at the opposite end of
the Anza Borrego Desert, a remote area called
Rockhouse Valley.
While the adjacent canyon, informally titled
Rockhouse Canyon, shares its namesake with our
favorite hiking area to the south, the two areas are
worlds apart. Rockhouse Canyon north is a curving,
narrow canyon with vertical walls on both sides
which eventually opens up to the broad expanse of
Rockhouse Valley. A majority of the hike is on BLM
land and interestingly enough, you find yourself
crossing over the San Diego County line and into
Riverside County early into the hike. The area is also
known for its’ numerous Cahuilla Indian sites, some
which date back 2000 years.
Our journey began with a crawling, bumping ride
up the jeep road past Clark Dry Lake. Once we
passed the Butler/Rockhouse Canyon junction the
trail became increasingly tough. We would hit a
rough spot and John, our hiking partner, would say
“I think this is as far as I made it in my Chevy SUV”.
I took this as a challenge and put the Landcruiser in
low range and continued up the narrow trail towards
Rockhouse Canyon. I was determined to get us as far
in as possible, or at least further than John was able
to drive.
Along the trail we had noticed a few Ocotillo that
seemed to have gotten into the holiday spirit and
turned red. We wondered if this was a different type
of Ocotillo or simply a phenomenon which we had not
seen before. If anyone has any ideas please add your
comments below.
Once we arrived at the trailhead we headed off
into the canyon. We immediately found ourselves
surrounded by sheer rock walls that rose dramatically
around us. The soft sand and slight uphill grade up
July 2011 Dezert Magazine 23
Photos
Top photo - Rockhouse Foundations. Bottom photo - Small barrell cactus growing out of a rock.
through Rockhouse canyon made
our trek a bit slow, and at one point
we even had to scale up a huge
dry waterfall. There was evidence
of the recent rains all around, and
we remarked to each other that
we would love to witness a flash
flood through this canyon. OK from
high above, but still it would be an
amazing spectacle.
Exiting Rockhouse Canyon we
entered the huge expanse of
Rockhouse Valley and began
scouring the area for the rock house
ruins. The valley itself is amazing,
with 8700’ Toro Peak towering over
its’ northern edge and numerous
ridges running along the valley
floor. It has the feeling of a large
desert amphitheater only silence not
music is its’ main attraction.
After a bit more searching we
found the three rectangular
rockhouse ruins. According to Diana
Lindsay’s “Anza-Borrego Desert
24 July 2011 Dezert Magazine
Region” Guide Book, one of the
houses belonged to “one of the
last chiefs of the RockHouse Valley
Indians”, Manuel Torte and his
family. The other rockhouse was
apparently built over a century ago
by a prospector mining for gold in
(Mojave) Rockhouse Valley.
The lower rockhouses marked the
end of our journey and after a few
pictures we began the three mile
hike back to the LandCruiser. The
slight downward grade, made the
return trip much faster and after
dropping our friends off, we were
enjoying dinner in Borrego Springs.
Rockhouse Valley is a great area
to explore if you are interested
in the history and beauty of the
Anza Borrego Desert. Long lost
mines, Native American sites and
incredible desert scenery help to
remove you from today’s hectic
pace and give you a glimpse of a
simpler life.
Photos
All photos courtesy of Wikipedia.
From The Pages Of Wikipedia…
Mission San Xavier del Bac
Mission San Xavier del Bac is a historic Spanish Catholic Mission located about 10 miles south
of downtown Tucson, Arizona, on the Tohono O’odham San Xavier Indian Reservation. Named
for a pioneering Christian missionary and co-founder of the Society of Jesus (Jesuit Order),
the Mission is also known as the “place where the water appears,” as there were once natural
springs in the area.[3] The Santa Cruz River which now runs only part of the year is also
nearby. The Mission is situated in the center of a centuries-old Indian settlement of the Tohono
O’odham (formerly known as Papago), located along the banks of the Santa Cruz River.
The mission was founded in 1692 by the
Jesuit missionary Eusebio Francisco Kino,
founder of the Spanish missions in the
Sonoran Desert chain, who often visited and
preached in the area. The original mission
church, located about two miles (3 km) away,
was vulnerable to Apache attacks that
finally destroyed it in about 1770. Charles
III of Spain banned all Jesuits from Spanish
lands in the Americas in 1767 because of
his distrust of the Jesuits. From this time on,
San Xavier mission was led by the more
pliable and “reliable” Franciscans. The
present building was constructed under the
direction of Franciscan Fathers Juan Bautista
Velderrain and Juan Bautista Llorenz mainly
with native labor working from 1783-1797
with a loan of 7,000 pesos and serves
the Catholics of the San Xavier District of
Tohono O’odham Nation. Unlike the other
Spanish missions in Arizona, San Xavier is
still actively served by Franciscans, and still
serves the Native community by which it was
built. The San Xavier church and its Indian
converts were protected somewhat from
Apache raids by the Presidio San Agustin de
Tucson, established in 1775 roughly 7 miles
downstream.
Outside, San Xavier has a white, Moorishinspired design, elegant and simple,
with an ornately decorated entrance.
No records of the architect, builders,
craftsmen and artisans responsible for
creating and decorating it are known.
Most of the labor was provided by the
local Indians, and many believe they
provided most or all of the artisans as
well. Visitors entering the massive, carved
mesquite-wood doors of San Xavier are
often struck by the coolness of the interior,
and the dazzling colors of the paintings,
carvings, frescoes and statues. The interior
is richly decorated with ornaments showing
a mixture of New Spain and Native
American artistic motifs.
Not much appears to have been written
about the Mission from 1797 to 1828. In
1822, it fell under the jurisdiction of the
newly independent Mexican government
and the Catholic Diocese of Sonora. In
1828, the Mexican government banned all
Spanish-born priests and the priest serving
at San Xavier was sent home to Spain; San
Xavier was left vacant. From 1828-1858,
the vacant church began to decay and local
Indians, concerned about their church, started
preserving what they could. In 1853, the
church was brought under U.S. jurisdiction
when the surrounding territory was bought
in the Gadsen Purchase. The vacant and
decaying church was re-opened, in 1859,
when the U.S.-based Santa Fe Diocese
added Arizona to its jurisdiction. The Bishop
The floor plan of the church resembles the
for the Santa Fe Diocese ordered repairs to
classic Latin cross. The main aisle is separated be made with Diocese money and a priest
from the sanctuary by the transept or cross
was assigned to serve at San Xavier. The
aisle, with chapels at either end. The dome
mission was declared a National Historic
above the transept is 52 feet (16 m) high
Landmark in 1960.[1][4]
supported by arches and squinches. At least
three different artists painted the artwork
Today, the Mission is open to the public
inside the church. It is considered by many
daily, except when it is being used for church
to be the finest example of Spanish mission
services. The San Xavier Festival is held
architecture in the United States.
the evening of the Friday after Easter and
features a torch-light parade of Tohono
O’odham and Yaqui tribal members.
Extensive restoration efforts in the late
20th century have restored the interior
to its historic splendor. Extensive exterior
restoration is continuing (as of June
2007 the left tower was completely
enclosed in scaffolding). Concrete
stuccoing added in the 1980s is being
removed as this material was found
to trap water inside the church which
damaged the interior decoration. This
modern stucco is being replaced with
the traditional mud plaster, including
pulp from the prickly pear cactus, that
“breathes” better to allow excess water
to escape but requires more regular
inspection and higher maintenance
costs. Following extensive and ongoing
restoration of the interior decorations,
the mission church interior now largely
appears in its original state, with brilliant
colors and complex design.[5]
Among the many legends surrounding
the building is a popular myth
suggesting that early taxation laws
exempted buildings under construction,
so the builders chose to leave one dome
unfinished. Another legend is that the
second tower is being left unfinished until
the “Excellent Builder” will come to direct
its completion. The Mission has acted
28 July 2011 Dezert Magazine
as a community center for the Tohono
O’odham for almost two centuries. In
1895, a school was opened and a
grant of $1,000 was given to repair the
building. More classrooms were added
in 1900 and, in 1947, a new school was
built next to the church for the Tohono
O’odham children.
1. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/San_Xavier_
del_Bac “San Xavier Del Bac Mission”. National
Historic Landmark summary listing. National Park
Service. http://tps.cr.nps.gov/nhl/detail.cfm?Res
ourceId=103&ResourceType=Building. Retrieved
2008-06-15.
2. “National Register Information System”.
National Register of Historic Places. National Park
Service. 2007-01-23. http://nrhp.focus.nps.gov/
natreg/docs/All_Data.html.
3. (Nentvig, J. 1980. Rudo Ensayo: A Description of
Sonora and Arizona in 1764. University of Arizona
Press, Tucson, AZ)
4. Marilynn Larew (February, 1978) (PDF).
National Register of Historic Places InventoryNomination: San Xavier del Bac Mission. National
Park Service. http://pdfhost.focus.nps.gov/docs/
NHLS/Text/66000191.pdf. Retrieved 2009-0505 and Accompanying 16 photos, 15 by Marilynn
Larew from 1977, 1 from 1877 after earthquake.
5. San Xavier Mission Organization site
Nentvig, J. 1980. Rudo Ensayo: A Description of
Sonora and Arizona in 1764. University of Arizona
Press, Tucson, AZ
July 2011 Dezert Magazine 29
The Stohler Treasure
By
John
Grasson
PhotoS Pictured above - Harry Oliver’s Gold Gulch badge from San Diego Exposition. Harry’s pipe. The last and only unfinished pegleg made by Harry Oliver.
One of the things I like about my job is the
amount of people who stop by with great
stories about the desert. Recently I met
someone who knew where Wyatt Earp’s
mines were located and even had a dish
from the site. Another was a set of geologists
that offered me over thirty years of Burr
Belden newspaper articles. Then came that
once in a lifetime find.
While speaking to a couple, I brought up
the topic of the desert. Jerry, the husband,
asked, “have you ever heard of Harry
Oliver?” I responded, “Of course I’ve
heard of Harry, he’s one of the Original
Desert Rats!”
Harry Oliver was best remembered for his
humorous publication about the American
Southwest, The Desert Rat Scrap Book. First
published in 1946 for “one thin dime”,
there was a very odd way to read the
publication. The pages didn’t flip like a
normal paper, rather one had to fold their
issue in array of different ways in order to
successfully read it. Harry used to promote
the paper as the only one that could be
read while in the desert.
Harry Oliver was a Hollywood set designer
and worked on such movies as Seventh
Heaven, Sparrows (both of which earned him
an Academy Award nomination), Ben Hur,
Scarface and many more. He lived in 1000
Palms at a place he called Ft. Oliver, which
was more of a movie set than a dwelling.
Harry was a great guy, very active in the
desert community and one of those beloved
souls that you would love to have around
your campfire.
he responded. “We have one at the house!”
My jaw dropped and I almost hit the floor
at this news. I have been looking for one of
these peglegs for years. I had to see one
up close and personal so I asked him again
if he could please set up a meeting with his
mother, and this time it was more of a plea
than anything else.
The following day I received a call and the
meeting was set. I packed my camera and
I asked Jerry how he knew Harry and he told was on my way that same afternoon. I met
me he had met him many times as a child. His his mother and father and they both were
mother wrote a book back in 1978 called
very gracious hosts. Betty seemed elated
A Kiss for the Desert and it was all about
about my interest in Harry. As I arrived to the
Harry’s Life.
location, I noticed about six big blue tubs,
storage containers, packed to the brim with
I was familiar with some of Harry’s
what was in my mind—treasure. “Wow!”, I
publications, but not this book written about thought to myself.
his life in particular. He added that his
mother, Betty Stohler, was a good friend
After the customary introductions and
of Harry’s right up until his passing. I then
greeting, we all sat around the kitchen table.
asked Jerry if it was possible to meet his
Betty was great, she told me that she had
Mom. He then told me that hepromised to
met Harry awhile back and they had both
give her a call.
become very good friends. She told me her
husband had a passion for 29 Fords and
We continued our conversation about
had purchased Harry’s old truck. They had
Harry and I asked Jerry if he knew of the
rebuilt the vehicle and kept it for a while, but
peglegs that Harry had carved to help
the last they heard about the truck, it was
promote the Lost Pegleg Yarn. “Know of it,”
in San Diego. It was the Stohler family that
July 2011 Dezert Magazine 31
PhotoS
Harry poses with his lost pegleg at Ft. Oliver. Harry standing beside
his 29 Ford. Jane Russel reading the Desert Rat Scrap Book
Photos courtesy of http://www.klaxo.net/hofc/hofc.net
took Harry to what would be his last Forty-niner Roundup in Death
Valley. On Harry’s passing, he gave Betty a ton of his mementos, the
collection in almost indescribable. The collection included hundreds
of Harry’s photos, his tobacco (he would only smoke Bull Durham), his
Gold Gulch sheriff badge, his pipe, one of his uncut peglegs and so
much more.
ones I’ve seen in the photo with Harry”, I told Betty. She was quick to
add that Harry had placed 60 peglegs around the Anza Borrego
desert and this was the sixty-first one. Still raw and unfinished, but
unmistakably a Harry Oliver made item. Personally, there is a great
overwhelming feeling holding an item that belonged to the early
desert pioneers. Here I held in my hands was an authentic relic from
the self proclaimed “Mirage Salesman”. I had to ask Betty if she
Betty then began to show me more of her collection, she had even
would entertain offers for the pegleg but she let me know it was
more treasures besides Harry’s belongings. There was Capt. Gibson’s not for sale. I can’t say that I blame her, if it was in my possession, I
cane, pictures and letters from Tom G Murray and Seldom Seen
would never sell it either.
Slim, they even had Slim’s hat. They had a saddle from Bill Keys,
of the Keys ranch in the Joshua Tree National Park. Although all
We spent then remainer of the visit sitting around the kitchen table
of these treasures are amazing, the real reason I was there was to
talking for hours. The funny thing about desert people is, when we
see Harry’s pegleg. Personally, I have been a major “pegophile”
say we would like to get together for a cup of coffee, a quick meal,
for years, having read everything I could find about the yarn. In my
or just for a short chat, we have a tendency to talk for a very long
opionin, The Lost Pegleg yarn is second only to the Lost Dutchman
time. I found myself doing just that. I wanted to stay for a week and
Mine of Arizona; people have been looking for the mine since it was go through each and every piece in the Harry Oliver collection, but I
originally lost sometime in the 1800’s.
knew that I should just thank my wonderful host for allowing me into
their home and try to express how grateful I was for sharing their
Pegleg was known to have secured food and lodging for years
treasure with me.
by his telling and retelling of the tale, which led some people to
believe that maybe he didn’t exactly always tell the truth. On
We parted ways and promised to get together again soon, then
January 1, 1949 in Borrego Springs, Harry and some of his fellow
I was on my way. While at home, I poured over the pictures of
desert rats held a contest in Peglegs honor, they called it The Pegleg my visit for the next three hours. It was truly a great day to be a
Liars Contest. Harry was also instrumental on building the Pegleg
desert rat.
“monument” and sign. The sign on the monument reads, “Let him
who seeks Pegleg Smith’s gold add ten rocks to this monument.” The I would personally like to thank Betty Stohler and her husband
inside joke was that no one actually brought any new rocks, they just for allowing myself and Dezert Magazine into their home. Their
moved some of the old ones, which basically keeps the pile moving.
hospitality was superb and they were both two truly wonderful
souls. I thank you from the bottom of my heart. I would also like to
When I first saw the pegleg I immediately noticed that it was not
personally thank Jerry Stohler for making this whole experience
like the one in Harry’s photo. It wasn’t rounded at all, rather it was
possible. I am absolutely thrilled to know that the love of the desert
more squared than anything. “This does look a bit different than the is still alive and kicking throughout the American Southwest.
32 July 2011 Dezert Magazine
PhotoS
Top Right Jim (on the ground, right) and Belle (behind him).
Bottom Right Virginia City in its heyday.
Top Left Virginia City now.
Vintage photos courtesy of UNLV Special Collections,
All others courtesy of Ted Faye.
The
Silver
That
Saved
Nevada
By Ted Faye
If you had been in Nevada in 1900 you
were probably there because your parents
or grandparents came for the big mining
rush to Virginia City some thirty years
earlier. But in 1900 Nevada is not a land of
excitement and far from a land of plenty.
It was in a severe depression and the towns
once thriving during the excitement of the
Comstock discovery were now turning back
to the desert.
July 2011 Dezert Magazine 35
Ghost Towns like
this at Teels Marsh
were the remnants
of better times!
Top Left Construction of the Mizpah, 1902
Right The Mizpah at the Tonopah Historic
Mining Park today.
It was getting so bad that one US Congressman even suggested
that Nevada’s statehood be revoked. That was a shock, especially
after the glory days of Virginia City and the great Comstock
discovery. Millions in silver had been taken from the ground in the
mountains southeast of Reno. Fortunes were made, a thriving city
was built, its riches helped supply the union during the Civil War,
and it was one of the reasons Nevada gained statehood.
But by 1900 it was all over. Every prospector that lingered in
Nevada was hoping to make the next big strike, including Jim
Butler. Jim and his wife, Belle, lived and worked on a ranch not
far from Belmont, Nevada. Jim was a “sometimes prospector”,
fluent in the Shoshone Indian language and would often leave the
ranch to go looking for a claim. In May of 1900 Jim set out to do
just that. He packed his burros (donkeys) and reached a place
about 65 miles southwest of his ranch; a place the Indians called
“Tonopah”, which translates roughly as “greasewood water.” This
was probably due to the greasewood brush growing near some
springs. Jim made camp for the night and when he awoke the next
morning his burros were missing. When he found them he picked
up a rock to toss at them to get them moving but the rock seemed
unusually heavy. It appeared to be rich in silver. Jim took the rock
home and his friend, Tasker Oddie, had it assayed. It was rich in
silver. Oddie sent a messenger to Jim at the ranch and told him to
get back down there and stake the claims. Jim didn’t seem to feel
the urgency until his wife Belle made him load up the buckboard
and head for Tonopah.
The story goes that Jim found silver while looking for his burros
but the Indians probably showed him where it was.
When they got there they began staking claims. Belle struck a
claim she called the Mizpah. She must have been thinking of the
biblical story of Jacob and Laban who set up a cairn of stones to
symbolize their covenant of protection and blessing. Maybe she
saw the stones she was setting up as a similar blessing. Whatever
the reason she claimed the Mizpah and it became the richest
mine in Tonopah. Soon prospectors were coming from all over. The
Butlers let them work the mines for a share in their profits. And it
wasn’t long before big money came in from the East. Nevada was
back in business! The boom started which would become the last
great gold rush of the American West.
36 July 2011 Dezert Magazine
For the entire story see
Chasing the Rainbow on DVD.
www.deathvalleyvideos.com
To re-trace the silver rush visit the Tonopah Historic
Mining Park in Tonopah, Nevada. There you can see
the historic Mizpah Mine which Belle discovered,
explore the Silver Top mine and visit the remains of
the old railroad that came into town.
Visit this historic Mining Park Museum and discover
for yourself, The Silver that Saved Nevada!
STORY By John Grasson Photos Courtesy of B7w staff photographer
Tombstone,
the mere mention of
the name gives one visions of
the old west, the days when Wyatt Earp
and Doc Holiday roamed its very streets. Where
gunfights, drinking and gambling was simply a way of life.
Where silver mining, cow punching and painted ladies vied for a living.
I had to see it with my own eyes, it was like a calling…
Photo
Fire insurance map of Tombstone 1888
I arrived from Tucson just as the sun was
about to set and stood in the middle of the
intersection at Allen and 5th St (all the streets
are closed to traffic). As the sun began its
slow beautiful descent, I could picture myself
among the townspeople of the late 1800s.
After all I was standing on the very spot
where Marshal Fred White was gunned
down by Curly Bill Brocius. All the businesses
were closed, only the saloons and dance
halls were open. But it was easy to simply
close your eyes and imagine what it was
like to hear the pianos playing, the whoops
and hollering of the cowboys and the
money being anted up at the poker tables.
I could also imagine carrying an old army
colt, wearing a duster and cowboy hat, the
sombrero type just like Wyatt wore. Having
a pocket full of oversized bills, a fistful of
Morgan dollars and ready to try my luck
against the great Doc Holliday. So I stopped
into the Crystal Palace and enjoyed a drink
and some fine eats, it was a long day. The
barkeep was dressed in period clothing
(and she was a beauty), Tombstone was
playing on the big screen, the hospitality was
great, the food was superb, all in all I had a
wonderful evening.
The next day I woke up early to a cold crisp
morning and headed out to the Longhorn
restaurant for some steak and eggs. The little
town was still sleeping a bit and I wanted to
see her before the crowds. The only people
in the streets were a couple of cowboys,
early shopkeepers, the street sweeper
and myself. I walked along the boardwalk
wishing I had some cowboy boots, so my
shoes could make “that” sound, the same
sound the sheriffs boots would make while
he’s making his morning rounds.
I walked down Allen Street to the City Park
making sure I read every marker along
the way and getting the lay of the land.
Tombstone was originally founded by a silver
miner named Ed Schieffelin. You can still take
tours of Ed Schieffelin’s silver mines today.
July 2011 Dezert Magazine 43
Ed was part of an Army scouting team back
in the late 1870s at the newly formed Camp
Huachuca. While out scouting, Ed was always
“prospecting” and concentrated mostly on
the hills east of the San Pedro River. This
area was gravely close to the Chiricahua
Nation land which the Chiricahua defended
to the death. When the soldiers were
informed of Ed’s interest in this land they
warned him by letting him know, “The only
rock you will find out there will be your own
tombstone.” This do not dissuade Ed and he
continued his quest for silver. Between 18771890, an estimated $85 million dollars worth
of silver was extracted. Soon after, a town
was born, a town that ended up being too
tough to die.
To the modern history buff, Tombstone is truly
known for simply one event. An event that
lasted less than 10 minutes and has been
with us for over one hundred years. It was
due to an early telling of this tale, as well as
Hollywood, that gave me a burning desire to
see the exact place where it all went down.
When the town finally began to wake from
its nighttime slumber, the first place I went to
was the O.K. Corral.
space caused all the participants to be
very close to each other, the lot was only
15ft wide.
I had a copy of the Analysis of the Gunfight
at the O.K. Corral by Ben Traywick. Ben
was the town’s historian and one of the
leading experts on the fight and the town’s
history. According to Ben’s book, it was the
double cocking of Doc Holiday’s shotgun
that set everything in motion. At the time,
Doc was only about 5-6 feet away from
Frank McLaury. What would you have done
when you heard a sound like that so close
to you? It may have simply been instinct to
try to protect yourself, even if it meant the
possibility of dying; at least this way you
would go out with a fight. This simple, small
and unassuming plot of land is connected
to an unfortunate murderous event that
happened so long ago yet we still discuss it
to this day. As important as this site is, I still
had the rest of the town to explore.
The crowds were beginning to come in, the
stores were opening and the ambience of
this town was starting to wind up. On my
way back uptown, I stopped into many of
the shops, making sure to check out all the
available reading at every bookstore I
found. Sometimes I’m amazed at how many
books one can purchase for a couple of
hundred dollars.
Right away I realized that Hollywood
lied, this I guess was to be half expected.
The actual fight at the O.K. Corral did not
take place at the corral but rather near
it, between Fly’s photograph shop and the
Harwood House in a very small lot, not in a As I walked through the town, I was surprised
spacious area like in the movies. The small when I spotted a place named Big Nose
44 July 2011 Dezert Magazine
Kate’s Saloon. I was unaware that Kate had
a saloon, but was quickly assured by the
locals that my hunch was correct. Kate was
Doc Holidays friend, lover and travelling
partner and they had a very tumultuous life
together. There are people that believe that
Kate was a “sporting girl” but they may
have her mixed her up with someone named
Rowdy Kate. It has also been reported that
Kate owned and operated a bordello within
Tombstone, but to date that has not been
verified. As I entered through the swinging
western doors, I again was greeted by a big
screen showing of Tombstone with Kurt Russell
(just like the night before) and soon realized
that this movie was playing all the time in all
saloons and restaurants in town. I thought this
would be a great time to take a small break,
enjoy some liquid refreshment; a cold beer
would surely hit the spot. Located across the
street from Big Nose Kate’s Saloon was the
Campbell and Hatch Billiard Parlor where
Morgan was gunned down while playing
billiards with Bob Hatch.
Tombstone history, from the original 1881
bar to Wyatt’s Faro table and hundreds of
other great memorabilia. It was in continuous
operation for 8 years running 24 hours a
day, every day, and there are a reported
120 bullet holes filling the walls and ceilings.
The New York Times called it the “wildest
wickedest night spot between Basin Street
and the Barbary Coast”. I enjoyed the card
tables behind the stage the best, it just
seemed to me that this would be the place
where the real action was happening.
and the misconceptions by the public. The
actual show was a bit campy but all in all it
was a wonderful time. I would recommend
that you bring plenty of water during the
summer months as it gets very hot and dry.
The stands can also get quite warm while you
enjoy the show.
After the show, I went to see the graves at
Boot Hill and I was a bit overwhelmed by
just how many people were murdered in this
small town. Tombstone at one time, boasted
a population of over 15,000, so I guess
It was time to start my way back to the O.K. I shouldn’t have been too surprised. One
Corral and get ready for the show. Along the can understand the cruelty of the period
way I stopped at as many shops as I could.
after viewing so many graves at once and
If you are looking for just about anything
to know that all of them died within a very
that is tied to western life, it’s here. From
short time period.
your typical souvenirs of t-shirts, jackets and
key chains to more of the specialty items
If you are a western history buff and are
for the more dedicated enthusiasts. If you
looking to expierince what it was like in the
want to purchase a gun, holster, duster, hat,
late 1800s, then Tombstone is the place
pants, shirt and even a marshal’s badge,
for you. Plan to spend a couple of days to
it’s all here. Besides all of this, there is some
truly enjoy your visit, my time was too short
very fine jewelry and Native American
to see it all and I will absolutely be back.
art available as well; so even the most
I then headed to the second most main
I did not get a chance to see the mines or
discerning shopper will be happy. As I exited Johnny Ringo’s grave. I also did not get to
attraction in Tombstone, the Birdcage
one of the shops I noticed a commotion
Theater. I originally believed that Wyatt
visit during the fabled Helldorado days
outside, it seems that the Clantons were in the which is the annual festival celebrating
met Josephine at this location, but after
process of getting the Earps angry enough
some inquiring I found out that the Birdcage
the life and times of the early days of
for a showdown, I followed them all the way Tombstone. I recommend that if you are
was opened on Christmas Day in 1881 and
to the O.K. Corral.
Wyatt left Tombstone in early 1882. While
planning a trip, make sure you have plenty
I’m sure Josie and Wyatt were entertained
of time and try to book your trip towards
there, I think it would be safe to say that they The Corral really put on a great show, the
the latter part of the year. That way you
first act, which was outside the theater,
most likely didn’t meet there. Nonetheless,
will be able to enjoy everything this great
explained the truth about what happened
this building holds a vast amount of
town has to offer.
July 2011 Dezert Magazine 45
Don’t trash the traDition
Whether it’s your child’s first camping trip, an annual family vacation destination, or your
favorite hunt camp, the magic of these special moments disappears with each carelessly
discarded wrapper, can or trash-filled fire ring. Pick up litter and leave public and private
lands better than you found them. And remember, Respected Access is Open Access.
ON LAND AND WATER
V I S I T O R S
The
S
W
O
MEAD
By Greg Niemann
Glitter Gulch without the glitter? No high rises,
no casinos, no streets or sidewalks? Up to the
mid-1800s the largest American city born in the
20th century was merely a small oasis created
by abundant artesian spring water.
For centuries, Indians (Southern Paiutes) often
rested by the springs along their Paiute Trail, one
of several trade routes they used crisscrossing
the American southwest. From underground
aquifers near today’s downtown Las Vegas,
year-round water flowed in a small creek for
several miles before vanishing into the sand.
Some of the Paiutes remained in the valley,
spending time at the springs and creek to hunt
and gather food. Cottonwood trees, willows and
tules lined the banks, and a hardy desert grass
carpeted the nearby valley floor.
About
The
Author
By John Grasson, Editor
Greg Niemann
The Paiutes, however, were not the first
occupants.
www.gregniemann.com/
bio.html
It seems the Las Vegas valley has long been a
busy place. After the last ice age ended about
9700 b.c., prehistoric animals roamed the
former lush and verdant area. Proof of this was
uncovered relatively recently, when construction
workers in 1993 uncovered the remains of a
Columbian Mammoth which paleontologists date
to be 8,000 to 15,000 years old.
Dezert Magazine
would like to thank
Greg Niemann for
providing our readers
an exclusive from his
new book Las Vegas
Legends (Being released
on July 1). Mr. Niemann
is an accomplished
writer and was an
editor at United Parcel
Service (UPS) where
he worked for over 30
years. He is an army
veteran and received
his degree in journalism
from California State
University, Los Angeles.
He has authored such
books as Baja Fever,
Baja Legends, Palm
Springs Legends, Big
Brown: The Untold Story
of UPS and Las Vegas
Legends. This is the first
chapter from his new
book, about the humble
beginnings of a major
metropolis. I hope you
enjoy it as much as I did.
Decades before the discovery, in 1925-26,
archeologist Mark Harrington, who went on to
become curator of the Southwest Museum in Los
Angeles, led expeditions into Nevada’s Moapa
Valley and the Muddy River to the north, and to
Tule Springs just outside Las Vegas. Along with
bones of ice age sloths (9700-6500 b. c.), they
uncovered early pueblo pottery, human bones
and artifacts.
In initially excavating 46 pueblo ruins, they
determined that more than one human culture
occupied the sites, including earlier basket
makers, and later pottery makers, the first human
inhabitants confirmed to date back to at least
900-400 b.c.
PhotoS
Map courtesy of www.oldspanishtrail.org
The desert winds caused billowing sandstorms
which constantly took habitat from those early
dwellers, especially to the north. By the 19th
century only the springs near downtown Las
Vegas remained attractive to receive tired
and thirsty visitors along the Paiute Trail. Some
1,500-2,000 Paiute Indians were living in the
area when outsiders arrived. July 2011 Dezert Magazine 51
Photo
Lithograph of John C. Fremont
courtesy of Crehan after Saintin.
and eventually U.S. Hwy. 91, and later yet,
Interstate-15.
Later, Senator Benton’s family adopted the boy, and Fuentes joined
the Fremont expeditions.
The historical trailblazer and one-time
presidential candidate John C. Fremont was
the man who put Las Vegas on the map,
literally. Fremont was born in Savannah,
Ga. in 1813 to a Frenchman and a young
Virginia aristocrat. His mother, at age 17,
was forced to marry a 62-year-old man.
About 15 years later she was discovered
having an affair with her French tutor, one
Charles Fremón. Their child was John C.
Fremont (The “T” was added later). Young
Fremont went on to become became a
member of the U.S. Topographical Corps
and helped map the upper Mississippi and
Missouri rivers.
Detoured off the main route, Fuentes then guided Fremont through
Las Vegas which they reached on May 3, 1844.
Fremont married Jessie, the daughter of
powerful Senator Thomas Hart Benson (Dem.
MO), who was one of the leading advocates
of western expansion. Fremont began
leading expeditions to the west, and met
and hired the remarkable but illiterate guide
Kit Carson. Carson, who could not write,
amazingly still spoke French, Spanish, English,
several Indian dialects and sign languages.
Fremont’s trips to the west were successes
and widely reported in the Eastern media.
It was in 1844, when Fremont was heading
south from Sutter’s Fort, Calif. to pick up the
original Old Spanish Trail that he stumbled
across Las Vegas quite by accident.
Until 1829, the original route of the
Old Spanish Trail from Santa Fe to Los
Angeles went far to the north of Las
Vegas, skirting the impassable Grand
and Glen Canyons. Then during winter
1828-29, New Mexico merchant Antonio
Armijo had organized a Californiabound trading party of 60 men and 100
mules. He’d long traded with the Southern
Paiutes and most likely learned of a new,
more southern, route from them.
party on Jan. 7, 1829 and thence led the
group into the valley where they camped at
the springs.
Armijo sent a group of scouts ahead and
they reached the Las Vegas Valley area
around Christmas Day, 1828. All had
returned to the main party by New Year’s
except Rafael Rivera, a young Mexican
scout. Rivera, who is credited with being
the first known non-Indian to visit the current
Las Vegas area, finally rejoined the Armijo
The route meandered a bit as scouts
developed shortcuts for various reasons, such
as hostile Indians, better water, etc. In time,
that Old Spanish Trail that came through Las
Vegas became the main trade route between
Santa Fe and Los Angeles, and evolved into
what was variously known as the Salt Lake
Road, The Mormon Trail, the California Road
52 July 2011 Dezert Magazine
Knowledge of the abundant artesian water
spread and soon Spanish traders and
gold seekers began stopping at what they
began calling “Las Vegas,” which means
“The Meadows” in Spanish. Due to word of
mouth, the route became heavily traveled by
caravans using the Old Spanish Trail.
In April while stopping to slaughter and
dry some animals along the intermittent
Mojave River, they were approached by
two Mexicans, a man, Andreas Fuentes, and
an 11-year-old boy, Pablo Hernandez. The
pair related that their small party of six
was herding horses from Los Angeles toward
Santa Fe when they were attacked by about
100 Indians. Running from arrows, Fuentes
and the boy were the only ones to escape.
The others in their party were Fuentes’ wife,
Hernandez’ parents and another man.
The Mexicans led Fremont back over their
route, to the scene which was near today’s
Tecopa by the California-Nevada border.
They found a sickening sight, the men’s
bodies naked, mutilated and pierced with
arrows, and the women gone.
Fremont describes his arrival: “After a days journey of 18 miles, in
a northeasterly direction, we encamped in the midst of another very
large basin, at a camping ground called Las Vegas a term which the
Spaniards use to signify fertile or marshy plains, in contradistinction
to llanos, which they apply to dry and sterile plains. Two narrow
streams of clear water, four or five feet deep, gush suddenly with
a quick current, from two singularly large springs; these, and other
waters of the basin, pass out in a gap to the eastward. The taste
of the water is good, but rather too warm to be agreeable; the
temperature being 71 in the one and 73 in the other. They, however,
afford a delightful bathing place.”
Fremont’s 1845 report made the springs at Las Vegas very
important. His report contained a map of the area mentioning Las
Vegas. The map was so reliable and popular that Congress printed
20,000 copies.
The map rendered Las Vegas a primary stop and wagon trains
considered it indispensable. If a group of emigrants did not have
that map, that fact was mentioned in diaries and journals. Many
travelers on their way to Los Angeles thus found water and a place
to rest along the way at the springs in The Meadows.
While his map led thousands overland, Fremont himself went on to
more grandiose endeavors, including leading the Bear Flag Rebellion
against Mexico, thus being instrumental in the U.S. acquiring California.
Democrats sought to back Fremont for president, but he refused to
endorse the Fugitive Slave Act, which would have forced escaped
slaves back to their former slave masters. So he became the first
candidate of the new Republican Party. He lost to James Buchanan,
carrying only 11 states to Buchanan’s 19. Later President Abraham
Lincoln appointed Fremont commanding general of the Department
of the West. He then served as governor of Arizona Territory from
1878 to 1881.
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Fremont died in 1890. About him, his mentor Senator Benton said,
“From the ashes of his campfire have sprung cities.”
That is certainly prophetic when one considers Las Vegas.
Fremont helped open up the West and his name is
everywhere, on streets, towns, cities, schools and mountains.
His map definitely gave Las Vegas early importance, and his
adventurous spirit lingers on.
To purchase this book, visit
www.gregniemann.com
July 2011 Dezert Magazine 53
ashua, NH
Janice - N
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