Soldering Photoetch

Soldering Photoetch
by Glen Martin
Overview
Many of you are already using photo etch with your
models. These parts are finely detailed and offer scale
thicknesses that styrene just can't match. The material
that photo etch is comprised of varies with different
manufacturers, but mostly it's brass. As you know, in a
styrene world we use solvents to melt our parts together.
But to attach photo etch metal, the most common
adhesive is CA glue, commonly called “Super Glue.” While
this glue will stick to most anything, it does have
weaknesses. It's brittle and will shear off under the right
conditions. But there is an alternative, which is about to
be described.
Materials Needed
Soldering iron
Solder
Flux
Clamps
Sanding sticks
Pliers
Bending tool (optional)
Jerry can holder soldered together
Method Described
Get your parts cut off their trees and carefully remove the
nubs leftover from the “fret.” Use pliers to hold the piece
and be gentle to avoid distorting the piece. Once bent the
wrong way, there's usually no going back! If the part
requires bending, for example a box, then do so with a
bending tool or pliers. Then clear out your workspace and
if you have a piece of glass or ceramic, bring that over. It
is a heat-resistant surface that can be soldered against
without worry of melting
anything.
Soldering irons come in
different configurations.
I use a cordless, electric
one that heats up only
when a button is pushed.
Most others are electric,
but butane ones are
gaining popularity since
they don't have cords to
mess with, but I digress.
Mine is called an Isotip,
and is available from
Micro-Mark. I use the
finest tip they have. If
you have a corded
electric one, plug it up
Isotip cordless soldering iron
so it can come up to
IPMS Richmond, VA
operating temperature. I hope you have a holder! Use an
glass ashtray if you don't.
The basic formula is heat + metal + solder = one piece.
We've discussed heat,
and the photoetched
metal. The solder is a
soft metal that melts to
a liquid and bonds with
the metal. When cool,
the joint is super
strong. However, there
are many formulas for
Electronics-grade solder
solder. Make sure to get
low temperature solder made for electronic work, in thin
strands. Your favorite Radio Shack store will have plenty. If
you see solder marked
as “rosin core” or “flux
core”, run away! You
do need flux, but let's
discuss that now,
because it's not in the
formula I mentioned.
Flux is a chemical that
cleans away the
oxidation and grease on
the surface of the
metal that would
interfere with the
solder adhesion. You
cannot solder without
this stuff, no matter
how much you try! It's
commonly a paste and
looks like Vaseline, but
Tix Flux—a liquid formula flux
there are liquid
formulas available too, which is what I prefer. If you're
hobby shop sells trains, they can set you up with solder and
flux.
Lets Do It
Use a clamp if possible
or a alligator clip
holding tool like the
one in the photo (I
think X-acto sells this
one). The more you can
do to immobilize the
Holding tool from X-acto
part the easier it is to
solder. You are going to need both hands! Clamp the part
with the holder or clamp it to glass or ceramic tile. Once
you're set up:
1. Apply the flux only to the joint you want connected.
Any more than that will allow the melted solder to
http://ipmsrichmond.org
flow all over the place, causing more cleanup than you
want.
2. Hold a piece of solder a few inches long in one hand.
3. Hold the soldering iron in the other (preferably the
dominant) hand, and touch the part at the joint. When
the flux starts to sizzle, the temperature is right, so
touch the solder to the joint. It should rapidly melt
and run down the area that was fluxed earlier.
4. Quickly remove the iron and the solder will turn solid
again, welding the joint.
5. An alternative method is to “load” the iron tip with
Sanding off the nubs
melted solder, then touching that to the joint. This is
the method illustrated in the photos.
If all is well, you are finished. However, until you get the
hang of it, you may have excess solder in blobs or runs,
which unfortunately must be smoothed out if it remains
visible on the model. Do this with a flat file or sanding
stick. The goal is to not have to do this every time, but
practice and patience will reap rewards. Finally, you might
want to clean the part by brushing on some lacquer
thinner .
What Have We Done?
A soldered joint is many times stronger than CA glue. In
fact, if done right the part will bend before the joint gives
way. This is great when building track fenders on armor
kits, as it allows you to damage them by twisting and
bending without breaking the joints.
Applying the flux
One Other Thing
Clean your soldering iron tip before putting it away. How?
While still hot, dip it in the flux, then apply some solder in
a uniform coat around the tip. Then unplug it and let it
cool. This prevents the tip from oxidizing (rusting), which
would cause the solder to roll off in hot blobs of liquid
trouble! Trust me on this. You can also sand the tip so it's
bright and shiny when you begin another session.
Loading the soldering iron
Soldered tool boxes on Cromwell turret sides
IPMS Richmond, VA
Heating the part with the iron
http://ipmsrichmond.org