INCI NAME

MILD WASHING
LATEST TRENDS
SOFT AND SOBER
SOFT APPROACH AS REACTION TO DIFFICULTIES: SOFTNESS, MILDNESS,
TENDERNESS TO SELF –PAMPER, DESIRE FOR NORMALITY AND NEED OF
SERENITY. NEO-SOBRIETY IS IMPOSED OR CHOOSEN
GREEN PHILOSOPHY
RESEARCH OF GUARANTEES AGAINST INCERTITUDE, EARTH AND
NATURAL SOURCE AS ATAVIC ROOTS, GUARANTEE OF SAFETY AND
EFFECTIVE PRODUCTS
SKIN NEEDS CLEANSING
Grime, makeup, bacteria, dead skin cells, dirt and oil
build up on face during the day.
The aims of a cleansing /washing product, that respects
the skin needs are:
Avoid skin irritation by harsh washing
Maintain skin natural moisturization
Prepare skin to a suitable hydration
Leave a soft and smooth skin
NATURAL BASED SURFACTANTS
Sinerga’ s mild surfactants are based on an innovative technology:
the condensation of vegetable protein hydrolisates or selected aminoacids with a
fatty acids that lead to the production of natural based lipoaminoacidic surfactants
(Li.Ami.Aci.).
Vegetable protein
hydrolisates
Fatty Acids
Li.Ami.Aci.
Li.Ami.Aci. FEATURES
o Mild surfactants
o Produced from vegetable raw
materials
o Preservative free or Paraben free
o Good foaming power and
detergency
o Provides a soft feeling to the skin
during and after use
o Leaves the hair lavish, soft, glossy
and easy to comb
DAILY CARE SURFACTANTS
o LAUROAT
o COCOYL WHEAT AMINO ACIDS
TREATMENT SURFACTANTS
o
o
o
ABIETOYL SOY POLYPEPTIDE
UNDECILENOYL SOY POLYPEPTIDE
UNDEOAT
SPECIAL PRODUCTS
o
o
VEGEQUAT
NATISOL
DAILY CARE SURFACTANTS
 LAUROAT
 COCOYL WHEAT AMINO ACIDS
Main features
o Very gentle surfactants
o Counteract the aggressiveness of primary surfactants
o Designed for extremely delicate toiletries formulations
LAUROAT
INCI NAME
Sodium Lauroyl Oat Amino Acids
DESCRIPTION:
Functional anionic surfactant derived from oat amino acids
OAT PERFORMANCES
Oat first appeared in the eastern regions of the
Mediterranean; during antiquity, oat flour had therapeutic
uses associated with its beneficial effects in the bath. The
external part of oat grain is particularly rich in vitamins,
lipids and other functional substances.
Oat-based products have moisturizing, emollient,
protective, soothing and skin pH adjusting properties; they
also act without damaging or denaturing the proteins of
the horny layer, avoiding the undesired effects of so many
surfactants.
AMINO ACIDS
The main characteristic Amino Acids are Alanine, Arginine,
Glutamic Acid, Glycine, Hystidine, Proline, Valine.
LAUROAT SPECIFICATIONS
Appearance
Liquid, from clear to slightly cloudy
Color
From colourless to pale yellow
Odour
Odourless
Dry residue
28 – 32%
pH (sol. 10%)
6.5 – 7.5
Solubility
Completely soluble in water
Cloud point
10°C
Preservative
Free
Suggested dosage
5% – 20 %

Ideal for:
Delicate washing products for skin and hair
LAUROAT
Patch test
30
•
The evaluation of the acute
cutaneous tolerance
demonstrated that Lauroat is 4
time less aggressive than SLES
•
Lauroat does neither irritate nor
sensitize skin and respects the
integrity of the cutaneous
barrier.
Dist.water
20
Lauroat 20%
SLES 20%
10
0
1h after patch
24 h after patch
COCOYL WHEAT AMINOACIDS
INCI NAME
Sodium Cocoyl Wheat Amino Acids
COCOYL WHEAT AMINO ACIDS SPECIFICATIONS
Appearance
Clear liquid
Color
From colorless to pale yellow
Odour
Characteristic
Dry residue
28 - 32%
pH (sol. 10%)
6.5 - 8.0
Solubility
Completely soluble in water
COCONUT PROPERTIES
Cloud point
10°C
Considered one of the most treasured foods of all time,
coconut products deliver superb health benefits.
Coconut Oil gives the skin the perfect mix of hydration and
antioxidants that it needs to stay healthy, smooth and
younger-looking longer.
Preservative
Free
Suggested dosage
5% – 20 %
DESCRIPTION
Functional natural surfactant derived from
coconut fatty acids and typical wheat amino
acids.
WHEAT PROPERTIES
Wheat was already known by the ancient Egyptians.
Wheat is often used for cosmetics and skin care thanks to its
outstanding moisturizing properties, providing the basis for
many cosmetic raw materials. The Main characteristic Amino
acids are Alanine, Arginine, Glutamic Acid, Glycine, Hystidine,
Proline, Valine.

Ideal for:
both sensitive skin and traditional high quality
toiletries formulations, very mild washing
performances
TREATMENT SURFACTANTS
 ABIETOYL SOY POLYPEPTIDE
 UNDECILENOYL SOY POLYPEPTIDE
 UNDEOAT
Main Features
o
Designed for curative washing formulations
o
Delicately remove oily residues on greasy skin
o
Reduce sebum and dandruff formation without altering skin
natural moisturization
ABIETOYL SOY POLYPEPTIDE
INCI NAME
Potassium Abietoyl, Hydrolyzed Soy protein
DESCRIPTION
Functional lipoproteic surfactant derived from
abietic acid and Soy protein.
SOY PROPERTIES
Soy is a leguminous plant which has been the food base of Far Eastern
population for 5.000 years for its nutritional value and health
properties.
It contains proteins in large quantities (38-40%) and all the essential
amino acids, essential polyunsaturated fatty acids, botanical hormones
(isoflavones, as genistein and daidzein), lecithin, fiber, vitamins (A, E, B
group)and minerals (Calcium, Phosphorus, Potassium and Magnesium).
SPECIFICATIONS
Appearance
Clear liquid
Color
Amber
Odour
Characteristic
Dry residue
30 – 32%
pH (sol. 10%)
6.5 - 8.0
Solubility
Completely soluble in water
Active washing Ingredient
29 - 31 %
Preservative
Potassium Sorbate ≤ 0.2 %
Suggested dosage
2% – 5%

ABIETIC ACID
It's a major component of Canada balsam, which is made from balsam
fir (Abies balsamea), hence the name.
It constitutes most of the solid portion of the oleoresin of coniferous
trees. Tall oil is a by-product of the wood pulp industry and consists of
almost equal parts of fatty acids (mainly oleic and linoleic) and a series
of cyclic isoprenoid acids like abietic acid along with some triterpenes.
Properties of the resin are to spread the sebum into an uniform film,
giving a sensation of less untuosity of hair and scalp.
Ideal for:
The formulation of cleansers for greasy skin and hair,
sebonormalizing
Compatible with all the substances normally used in
cosmetics, except cationic ones
ABIETOYL SOY POLYPEPTIDE
SEBOMETRY
Mean values
90
80
T0
(-23.5 %)
T3 weeks
70
60
50
Abietoyl Soy PP
Placebo
A 3 weeks treatment with Abietoyl Soy Polypeptide 5% shampoo showed a statistically significant decrease in
sebometry values (-23.5 %).
UNDECILENOYL SOY POLYPEPTIDE
INCI NAME
Potassium Undecylenoyl Hydrolyzed Soy protein
SPECIFICATIONS
Appearance
Liquid, from clear to slightly
cloudy
DESCRIPTION
Functional lipoproteic surfactant derived from
Undecylenic acid and Soy protein.
Color
Amber
Odour
Characteristic
Dry residue
28 – 32%
pH (sol. 10%)
6.5 – 7.8
Solubility
Completely soluble in water
Active washing Ingredient
29 - 31 %
Preservative
Potassium Sorbate ≤ 0.2 %
Suggested dosage
2% – 3%
UNDECYLENIC ACID
It is an economical antifungal agent and is the active
ingredient in many topical over-the-counter
antifungal preparations.
It has been shown to be approximately six times
more effective as an antifungal than caprylic acid,
and is effective in maintaining a healthy balance of
intestinal and vaginal flora.
A variety of compounds useful as bactericides,
fungicides and insect sprays are produced from
Undecylenic acid.

Ideal for:
Antidandruff dermo-purifying function
Recommended for the formulation of antidandruff and
products for oily skin.
UNDECILENOYL SOY POLYPEPTIDE
Desquamation Index
Mean values
31,5
T0
30,5
T3 weeks
29,5
28,5
Undecilenoyl Soy PP
Placebo
A 3 weeks treatment with Undecilenoyl Soy Polypeptide 5% shampoo showed a
statistically significant decrease in desquamation index (-3 %).
UNDEOAT
SPECIFICATIONS
INCI NAME
Undecylenoyl Oat Amino Acids
DESCRIPTION
Lipoaminoacid surfactant: active and mild “in one”.

Mild surfactant with excellent tolerability and
compatibility

Reduce skin irritation caused by other surfactants

Respect the skin barrier without damaging proteins of
the horny layers

Strong antibacterial and antifungal properties

Reduces sebum and dandruff formation, after
dermatological and self evaluation
Appearance
Clear liquid
Color
From straw yellow to yellow
Odour
Characteristic
Dry residue
30 – 34 %
pH (sol. 10%)
6.5 - 7.5
Product form
25-35% Acqueous solution
Active washing
Ingredient
28 – 30%
Preservative
Free
Suggested dosage
3% – 5%

Ideal for:
greasy skin and hair
sensitive skin formulations
UNDEOAT
After 4 weeks, Undeoat is able to reduce:
−
−
−
−
Sebometry on the scalp (-50%)
in comparison to the placebo
Itch sensation (-65%)
Greasiness on the scalp (-50%)
Desquamation on the scalp (45%)
SPECIAL PRODUCTS
o
o
VEGEQUAT
NATISOL
Main Features
o Surfactants specifically designed to refine washing formulations
o Support and promote essential oils solubilization
o Confer conditioning and antistatic properties
NATISOL
INCI NAME
Cocoyl Proline
DESCRIPTION
Vegetable origin lipoaminoacid, natural solubilizing agent.
MAIN FEATURES
 Eco-solubilizer for essential oils and fragrances for toiletries and perfumes
 It completely substitutes ethoxylated surfactants normally used in cosmetic products
 Compliant to requirements of Ecocert Italia standards for Organic and Natural cosmetics.
SPECIFICATIONS
Appearance
Clear liquid
Color
From colorless to straw yellow
Odour
Odourless

Dry residue
55 – 65%
Ideal for:
pH (sol. 10%)
6.0 - 7.5
Product form
50-70% acqueous solution
Preservative
Free
Suggested dosage
0.1% – 5%
greasy skin and hair
sensitive skin
formulations
NATISOL
INGREDIENTS 1%
NATISOL
Mix of PG
derivatives
Caprylyl Capryl
Glucoside
Polisorbate 20
PEG-40
Hydrogenated
Castor Oil
%
result
%
result
%
result
%
result
%
result
C12-15 Alkyl
Benzoate
16
not
clear
8
clear
>18
not clear
19
clear
10
clear
Isopropyl
Myristate
>16
nc
10
c
>23
nc
>20
nc
10
C
Isododecane
18
c
35
c
>31
nc
>20
nc
17
C
Dicaprylyl Ether
23
c
20
c
>25
nc
20
c
10
C
Bisabolol
12
c
26
c
14
c
12
c
18
C
Farnesol
10
c
21
c
9
c
8
c
10
c
Tocopherol
>35
c
12
c
>24
nc
>20
nc
20
c
Tee Tree Oil
6
c
10
c
4
c
9
nc
10
c
Methyl Salicylate
27
c
10
c
25
c
11
c
8
c
VEGEQUAT
INCI NAME

Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein
Ideal for:
DESCRIPTION
Vegetable origin cationic hair conditioner
MAIN FEATURES
 Conditioner, substantivant, antistatic agent for hair and skin
 Opposite to normal cationic surfactants, it does not build up
on the hairs
the formulation of
conditioners, shampoos,
cleansers, shower creams,
after-shampoo conditioners,
revitalizing bubble baths
SPECIFICATIONS
Appearance
Clear liquid
Color
From yellow to amber
Odour
Characteristic
Dry residue at 105°C
30 – 34%
pH (sol. 10%)
6.5 - 7.5
Product form
30% Aqueous solution
Preservative
Free
Suggested dosage
0.5% – 5%
TOXICOLOGICAL DATA
Oral acute toxicity
Skin irritation
Eye irritation
≥ 2000 mg/kg
not irritant
not irritant
VEGEQUAT
Damaged hair repair efficacy
50
%
40
30
20
10
0
Vegequat 2%
Poliquaternium 10
VEGEQUAT is able to give 45% hair recovery after bleaching and perming treatment,
with a restructuring and conditioning capacity by almost double respect to the commonly used reference
polymer in wash off cosmetic products.
APPENDIX 1
SENSORIAL
CHARACTERIZATION
FOAM HEIGHT COMPARISON
The change in foam height was measured for each surfactant diluted 5% and 10% in water. Each solution was
inverted 10 times in a graduated cylinder and the foam heigh was measured. To determine foam height decrease
over time, the measurement was repeated after 5 minutes.
5% sol
SURFACTANT
T0
cm
LAUROAT
UNDEOAT
COCOYL WHEAT AMINO ACIDS
ABIETOYL SOY PP
UNDECILENOIL SOY PP
SLES
10% sol
T5 min
cm
T0
cm
T5 min
cm
FOAM CHARACTERIZATION
23
19
26
22
Big bubbles, homogeneous and
persistent foam. As for the 10%
concentrated, the foam at the basis
appears thicker and smaller.
30
24
30
26
Small bubbles, thick foam, very solid
and homogeneous.
31
26
30
25
Big bubbles, thick foam, solid and
homogeneous
Small bubbles, thick foam, solid and
homogeneous
32
25
30
26
28
21
30
26
Small bubbles, thick foam, solid and
homogeneous.
30
25
32
26
Mean size bubbles, thick foam, solid
and homogeneous.
FOAM HEIGHT COMPARISON
5% Surfactant
Foam height (cm)
40
30
20
10
0
Abietoyl soy
Undecilenoyl
polypeptide soy polypeptide
Undeoat
Lauroat
Cocoyl wheat
aminoacids
SLES
T0
10% Surfactant
Foam height (cm)
40
30
20
10
0
Abietoyl soy Undecilenoyl
polypeptide soy polypeptide
Undeoat
Lauroat
Cocoyl wheat
aminoacids
SLES
T5 min
PERFORMANCES COMPARISON*
BEFORE APPLICATION
SURFACTANT
SPREADABILITY
FOAM DENSITY
BUBBLE DIMENSION
FOAM QUANTITY
FOAM DURATION
LAUROAT
COCOYL WHEAT
AMINO ACIDS
ABIETOYL SOY
POLYPEPTIDE
UNDECILUNOYL SOY
POLYPEPTIDE
UNDEOAT
SLES
AFTER APPLICATION
SURFACTANT
RINSE-OFF
FACILITY
CLEANSING ACTION
STICKINESS
LAUROAT
●
COCOYL WHEAT
AMINO ACIDS
●
ABIETOYL SOY
POLYPEPTIDE
●
UNDECINOYL SOY
POLYPEPTIDE
●●
UNDEOAT
●
SLES
●
* Based on personal assessment (10 volounteers)
SOFTNESS
DRYNESS
CONDITIONING
SENSORIAL PROFILE
4,5
4
3,5
3
ABIETOYL SOY PP
2,5
Unit
COCOYL WHEAT AA
2
LAUROAT
1,5
UNDECYLENOYL SP
1
UNDEOAT
0,5
0
Foam density
Foam quantity Foam duration
Bubbles
dimension
Softness
Conditioning
APPENDIX 2
WASHING PERFORMANCE
WASHING PERFORMANCES
SLES
The test was performed for each
surfactant with the following internal
protocol:
Abietoyl soy polipeptide
Udecilenoyl soy polypeptide
1.
Lauroat
2.
Natisol
Undeoat
A marked lipid solution (coloured
50% w/w) is mixed with an acqueous
solution of a surfactant.
Acqueous phase is separated and UV
absorbance is measured to
determine the presence of the
colour.
Cocoyl wheat amino acids
0
0,05
0,1
0,15
The washing performance of each surfactant was measured as the ability to carry away lipids from a labelled
solution. The higher the Abs value, the highest is the cleaning power. Abietoyl and Undecilenoyl Soy PP are the
most effective ones.
APPENDIX 3
FORMULATION GUIDELINES
DAYLICATE BODYWASH
INGREDIENTS
Cocamidopropyl betaine
Sodium myreth sulfate
NATISOL (SINERGA)
Parfum
Coco-Glucoside
PHYTOPROTEIN AC
(SINERGA)
Aqua
RISOLAT (SINERGA)
LAUROAT (SINERGA)
Sodium benzoate
Phenoxyethanol
Citric acid
Sodium Chloride
PHASE
A
% w/w
9,00
35,00
0,50
1,00
2,00
1,00
B
to 100
3,00
3,00
0,30
0,80
0,05
1,00
C
D
LSIN 5317
METHOD
Weight and mix slowly components of
phase A: premixing Natisol with fragrance.
Weight phase B.
Add slowly B into A under slow stirring.
Add C (water solution).
Add D to reach the right viscosity.
CHARACTERISTICS
Opalescent
Aspect
Colour
Odour
pH
Viscosity Viscotester VT-02
tenside
Whiteivory
Characteri
stic
5,50-6,50
2.5003.500
REINFORCING SHAMPOO
INGREDIENTS
PHASE
% w/w
Sodium Laureth Sarcosinate
Cocamidopropyl betaine
COCOYL WHEAT AMINO ACIDS
(SINERGA)
LAUROAT (SINERGA)
Caprylyl/Capryl Glucoside
PHYTOPROTEIN AC (SINERGA)
Disodium laureth sulfosuccinate,
Sodium lauryl sulfoacetate
VEGEQUAT (SINERGA)
Prof. daily style SNR 00123
Phenoxyethanol
A
8,00
25,00
4,00
Aqua
Sodium Benzoate
Chlorophenesin
Sodium Chloride
Disodium EDTA
Panthenol
Sodium hydroxide
PEG-18 Glyceryl Oleate/Cocoate
B
3,00
2,00
2,00
8,00
1,50
0,50
0,50
B1
B1
B1
C
D
to 100
0,30
0,20
1,00
0,10
0,5
0,08
3,00
LSIN 5316*
METHOD
Weight and mix phase A until homogeneous system.
Heat phase B at 50°C; weight and add phase B1 into
phase B and start slow cooling until 35°C.
Add phase B+B1 into phase A.
Add C and D
CHARACTERISTICS
Aspect
Liquid tenside
Colour
Light yellow
Odour
Characteristic
pH
5,50 - 6,00
Viscosity Viscotester VT-02
2.000 – 3.000
mPa.s
MILD FACE CLEANSER
INGREDIENTS
PHASE
% w/w
Aqua
Glycerin
Panthenol
Disodium EDTA
Carbomer
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate
Crosspolymer
Decyl Oleate
C-12-15 Alkyl Benzoate
Bisabolol
Tocopheryl Acetate
Phenoxyethano,l Ethylhexylglycerin
A
to 100
0,50
0,50
0,10
0,30
0,25
C
7,00
5,00
0,20
0,10
0,70
Ethylhexylglycerin
TREALIX (SINERGA)
UNDEOAT (SINERGA)
RED ALGA GEL (SINERGA)
Parfum
Sodium Hydroxide
D
E
F
G
H
I
0,50
2,00
3,00
2,00
0,15
0,20
B
LSIN 5315
METHOD
Weight and heat at 50°C phase A: disperse polymers
under mixer until homogeneous system.
Start slow cooling and stirring until 35°C.
Weight phase B and add to A under mixer until
homogeneous system.
Add C and D.
Add sequentially the components E,F,G,H.
Neutralize with I.
CHARACTERISTICS
Aspect
Colour
Odour
pH
Viscosity Viscotester VT-02
Emulsion gel
White
Characteristic
5,50-6,50
1.500-2.000
mPa.s
HAND SOAP SLES-FREE
INGREDIENTS
Cocamidopropyl betaine
Phenoxyethanol
Caprylyl/capryl glucoside
Parfum
Coco-glucoside
Sodium lauroyl sarcosinate
Disodium laureth sulfosuccinate,
Sodium lauryl sulfoacetate
COCOYL WHEAT AMINOACIDS
(SINERGA)
Aqua
Disodium edta
Panthenol
PHYTOPROTEIN (SINERGA)
UNDECYLENOYL SOY POLYPEPTIDE
(SINERGA)
PEG-18 Glyceryl oleate/cocoate
PEG-120 Methyl glucose dioleate
Sodium Hydroxide
PHASE
% w/w
A
A1
A1
A1
25,00
0,70
3,00
0,60
2,00
8,00
7,00
5,00
B
C
D
E
G
to 100
0,10
0,30
1,00
2,00
2,50
2,00
0,08
LSIN 5314
METHOD
Weight and mix under slow stirring phase A:
premixing phase A1.
Weight phase B and add to phase A+A1.
Add C, D, E.
Adjust the pH with F.
Adjust the viscosity with G.
CHARACTERISTICS
Aspect
Colour
Odour
pH
Viscosity Viscotester VT-02
Slightly
opalescent
Light yellow
Characteristic
5,00-6,00
1.7002.300mPa.s
more information on: www.sinerga.it