O`Donal`s Nurseries, Inc.

O’Donal’s Nurseries, Inc.
Inside
1-3
New Trees & Shrubs
4-5
New Perennials
Spring Pond Frolics
6-7
Perennial Plant of 2006
2006 Cary Award
Heuchera: The Perfect
Companion Plant
8-9
Maintaining Perennial
Gardens
10 - 11 - 12
Furnishings & Outdoor
Accents
Why YardScape
Spring 2006 Newsletter
NEW TREES & SHRUBS FOR 2006
Acer palmatum ‘Suminogashi’: This Japanese maple has an upright form, and
deeply-divided red leaves. It can be used in the same sites as a ‘Bloodgood’
Japanese Maple. In full sun or light shade, this small tree will grow to about 15’
tall and 12’ wide.
Acer palmatum ‘Twombly’s Red Sentinel’: ‘Red Sentinel’ is a variation of
‘Bloodgood’ by Connecticut’s legendary plantsman, Ken Twombly. It is upright
and columnar when young then broadens with age. The foliage is deep maroon-red
in summer, and red stems also provide winter interest.
Acer palmatum ‘Yatsubusa Kashima’ and ‘Yatsubusa Kyohime’: These varieties
are very rare and unique forms of Japanese Maple. Kiyohime is almost a
groundcover, maturing to about 2’ tall by 6’ wide; its green foliage has a pink
tinge, turning brighter pink-red in fall. Kashima is similar to Kiyohime, but will
grow twice as tall. Our supplier/grower, Mike Johnson of Summer Hill Nursery,
describes these Japanese maples as “very tidy small plants”.
Acer pensylvanicum x tegmentosum ‘White Tigress’: This maple was introduced
by premier plantsman Tim Brotzman, who introduced the Lavender Twist Redbud.
White Tigress is a hybrid striped maple; its bright green stems have prominent
white stripes. In summer, the tree has immense green leaves.
13
Acer rubrum ‘Magnificent Magenta’ (Burgundy Belle™ Red Maple): This
swamp maple has rich green foliage in summer; in fall leaves turn red, then rich
burgundy. The tree itself has a dense, oval-to-rounded crown.
14 - 15
Azalea (Rhododendron) ‘Sparkler’: Here is another late summer-blooming
fragrant azalea. In the words of Wayne Mezitt (Weston Nurseries), ‘Sparkler’ is
“one of the very best”. Its rich, deep green foliage is enhanced in late summer by
bright pink fragrant blooms.
Gardening on Hard
Surfaces
Orchids for Beginners
O’Donal’s Nurseries
is a member of :
∗American Nursery and
Landscape Association
∗Maine Nursery and
Landscape Association
∗New England Nursery and
Landscape Association
∗Perennial Plant
Association
∗Maine Christmas Tree
Association
Azalea (Rhododendron) xyodense var. poukhanense ‘Pink Discovery’: This is a
new evergreen azalea from Weston’s Nursery. ‘Pink Discovery’ has a somewhat
rounded form, and is covered by bright pink blooms in spring. It is considered one
of the hardiest evergreen azaleas.
Buxus x ‘Green Gem’, ‘Green Mound’ and ‘Green Velvet’: Our spectacular
success with Green Mountain Boxwood has encouraged us to expand this series
from Sheridan Nursery (Canada!). The hardiness of Green Mountain has surpassed
our wildest dreams, looking better in a display bed than most Kalmia and
Rhododendrons each spring. The habit of Green Mountain is an upright pyramid,
continued on page 2
© 2006 O’Donal’s Nurseries, Inc.
continued from page 1
whereas these new boxwood varieties are small rounded
dwarfs. Green Gem is a slow-growing mound, maturing to a
2’x 2’ ball. Green Mound is a slightly larger version, reaching
perhaps 3’ x 3’. Green Velvet has small, dark green round
foliage, is very slow-growing, and will mature to about 3’ x 3’.
Chamaecyparis obtusa ‘Kosteri Fastform’: This introduction
has a texture much like dwarf Koster Falsecypress, but is
much faster growing. ‘Kosteri Fastform’ matures to a broad,
upright specimen with rich green foliage. Its habit is similar to
‘Gracilis Compacta’, but not quite as broad.
Chamaecyparis obtusa ‘Split Rock’: A falsecypress
introduced by Split Rock Nursery in New Jersey, this slowgrowing specimen mixes striking blue juvenile foliage with a
main body of blue-gray mature foliage. ‘Split Rock’ matures
into an upright broad pyramid.
Clethra alnifolia ‘Fern Valley Pink’: Think Hummingbird
Clethra combined with Ruby Spice Clethra! ‘Fern Valley
Pink’ is a broad, yet compact plant with fragrant pink blooms
that fade to a light pink-cream. This new clethra also blooms
earlier than other clethra.
Cornus kousa ‘Gamzam’ (Galilean Korean™ Dogwood):
‘Gamzam’ has been introduced by Lake County Nursery, Ohio,
as one of the most vigorous, best foliaged, and hardiest Kousas.
This dogwood has cream flowers in mid-summer and red
raspberry-like fruit in fall.
Cornus kousa ‘Wolf Eyes’: ‘Wolf Eyes’ is one of the best
known variegated kousa dogwoods. It is a slow-growing form,
and the foliage has prominent white edges. ‘Wolf Eyes’ is very
striking in a shady location, but perhaps too bright to look at in
full sun.
Cornus stolonifera ‘Farrow’ (Arctic Fire™ Red Twigged
Dogwood): Arctic Fire is a selected sport of Bailey Red
Twigged Dogwood, but is more compact, rarely maturing over
5’. Unlike most red twigged dogwoods, Arctic Fire is nonsuckering, forming a rounded outline of bright red stems in
winter. It is also a 2006 Proven Winner ColorChoice exclusive.
Cotinus coggygria ‘Young Lady’: This smokebush variety,
a Proven Winner ColorChoice introduction, is destined to
turn people into smokebush fans whether or not they want to.
‘Young Lady’ is a compact (under 8’) rounded plant with green
foliage, and in summer, it seems every tip is covered with
extremely large smokey pink flower heads. Even very young
plants flower profusely.
Deutzia gracilis ‘Duncan’ (Chardonnay Pearls™ Deutzia):
This deutzia cultivar has a compact, mounding habit, limeyellow foliage, and upright panicles of rounded pearl-like white
blooms. Chardonnay Pearls is a colorful addition to any sunny
garden, and a Proven Winners ColorChoice exclusive.
207-839-4262
Ginkgo biloba ‘Chi Chi’: This dwarf specimen Ginkgo is
highly prized for bonsai. ‘Chi-Chi’ is a slow-growing upright
“shrub” with numerous protruding bumps on its trunk. Very
rare.
Hydrangea macrophylla ‘Penny Mac’: This hydrangea is
98.5% genetically similar to the Endless Summer Hydrangea,
but is slightly hardier. ‘Penny Mac’ has blue or pink flowers,
depending on soil pH, and it flowers continuously from June
through November. Typically, if the soil is correct, the flowers
open blue, then age to pink, resulting in a mix of old pink and
new blue flowers throughout the summer. It is named in honor
of a founding member and past president of the American
Hydrangea Society.
Hydrangea paniculata ‘Bulk’ (Quickfire Panicled Hydrangea):
Quickfire is a new German hybrid being introduced through
the Proven Winners ColorChoice program. It has the earliest
flowers of any panicled hydrangea, opening creamy white
and turning a deep rose pink before other hydrangeas begin to
flower. ‘Bulk’ is a dramatic addition to the hydrangea family.
Juniperus chinensis ‘Daub’s Frosted’: An eye catching
accent, ‘Daub’s Frosted’ is a spreading/arching juniper with
blue-gray foliage and contrasting ivory colored tips.
Larix x ‘Varied Directions’: This new variety is similar
in appearance to Weeping Larch, but with a very different
attitude! ‘Varied Directions’ is a groundcover if not staked; its
branches arch up, over, around or down, almost on a whim. It
has fresh green needles that turn golden yellow in fall. ‘Varied
Directions’ was developed by legendary plantsman, Sidney
Waxman, of the University of Connecticut.
Larix laricina ‘Deborah Waxman’: This larch, another
selection by Dr. Waxman, ‘Deborah Waxman’ (the larch, not
the person) is a slow-growing, upright dwarf. This new larch
has a tight conical habit with ascending branches, blue-green
needles, and golden fall color. Spring cones are a dramatic rose
color.
Malus ‘Purple Prince’: A new introduction by the J.Frank
Schmidt Nursery, ‘Purple Prince’ may be the best diseaseresistant, red-leaved, red-flowering crabapple. It eventually
forms a rounded crown, 20’ tall and wide.
Malus ‘JFS-KW5’ (Royal Raindrops Crabapple): This new
variety is a significant improvement over Golden Raindrops
Crabapple. Royal Raindrops has cutleaf red-purple foliage,
deep rose-red flowers, and persistent red fruit.
Philadelphus lewisii ‘Blizzard’: This mockorange was
selected in Alberta, Canada for improved hardiness and
compact form. ‘Blizzard’ has single white fragrant blooms on
a 6’ plant.
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© 2006 O’Donal’s Nurseries, Inc.
continued from page 2
Physocarpus opulifolius ‘Mindia’ (Coppertina Ninebark):
WOW! Talk about dramatics; Coppertina takes the highest
award for it! A cross between 2 ninebarks (red-leaved Diablo
and gold-leaved Dart’s Golden), Coppertina is a fast-growing
tall arching shrub of 10’ or more. New growth is bi-colored
maroon and orange, and the mature foliage is a rich maroon.
Add pink flower clusters and red-ripening fruit capsules, and
you have a knockout shrub.
Picea glauca ‘Humpty Dumpty’: Think, squat fat Dwarf
Alberta Spruce! ‘Humpty Dumpty’ is an extremely slowgrowing broad pointed mound, as wide at the base as it is tall.
Originally found as a witch’s broom, ‘Humpty Dumpty’ has
been introduced by Iseli Nursery.
Picea orientalis ‘Gowdy’: ‘Gowdy’ Oriental Spruce is a
spectacular specimen with short deep green glossy needles and
a broad, pyramidal growth habit. Not a true dwarf, but slower
growing than the species, ‘Gowdy’ has graceful draping to
weeping branchlets.
Rhododendron x ‘Midnight Ruby’: This rhododendron is a
hybrid cross of the popular and practically indestructible PJM,
and the groundcover Purple Gem Rhododendron. ‘Midnight
Ruby’ matures to a midpoint between its parents, about 3-4’
tall and wide. It produces copious amounts of bright lavender
flowers in early spring. The foliage is a deep green with a
purple haze, turning deep purple when cold nights and shorter
days return in late August.
Sambucus nigra ‘Eva’ (Black Lace Elderberry): If we believe
the press, this is the plant of the year. This next generation
Black Beauty Elderberry has finely cut foliage that resembles
red-leaved Japanese Maples. As a much hardier plant (than
the Japanese maples), and the ability to thrive in more difficult
conditions, Black Lace appears to be a spectacular gift to
gardeners. However, don’t jump on the band wagon yet! At
O’Donal’s, we are acutely aware that our Maine climate
extends a ‘very special invitation’ to untested plants. Black
Beauty, the forerunner of Black Lace, did not fare well in
Maine’s climate, so we will wait and see. O’Donal’s will have
a small number of plants available for those who can’t resist
giving it a try.
Spiraea x ‘Darnsnorm’ (Snowstorm Spirea): This new
spring-blooming spirea, a Proven Winners ColorChoice, forms
a mounding habit. Its green summer foliage which turns a
blaze of orange-reds in fall, making it a great non-invasive
alternative to burning bush in Maine landscapes.
Symphoricarpos x doorenbosii ‘Kordes’ (Amethyst™
Coralberry): This shrub is yet another new selection through
the Proven Winners ColorChoice program. Amethyst grows
about 30” tall, and is an excellent fast-growing, erosioncontrolling groundcover in full sun to part shade. The plant is
really spectacular in fall, as its stems are covered with deep
rose-pink berries.
Syringa x ‘Red Pixie’: Think Dwarf Korean Lilac but with
glossier foliage and bright red buds that open to brilliant
rose-pink blooms. ‘Red Pixie’ is a spectacular new, compact,
late-blooming lilac.
Viburnum dilatatum ‘Henneke’ (Cardinal Candy Viburnum):
This viburnum is another exclusive through the Proven Winner
ColorChoice program. Cardinal Candy grows up to 8’ high
and 6’ wide. It has deep green, crinkly looking foliage, clusters
of white (non-fragrant) flowers, followed by deep red berry
clusters that look too good to eat. In addition, the fruit persists
well into winter. Cardinal Candy is reportedly hardier than
species Viburnum dilatatum, which, during severe winters, has
died back in some parts of Maine. A real knockout that is also
resistant to the Viburnum leaf beetle.
While this list represents many of our new offerings this year,
O’Donal’s Nurseries, in keeping with our goal of creating
gardeners for life, continues to test many other newly available
plants for hardiness, insect resistance and overall positive
results. Our hope is to add these plants within the next few
years.
Jeffrey O’Donal
extended hours in May
Mon. - Fri. 8:00 - 7:00
Saturday 8:00 - 6:00
Sunday 9:00 - 5:00
our catalog is on-line
odonalsnurseries.com
page 3
as spring daylight
increases
Mon. - Sat. 8:00- 6:00
Sunday 9:00 - 5:00
June on
Mon. - Sat. 8:00- 6:00
odonalsnurseries.com
© 2006 O’Donal’s Nurseries, Inc.
NEW PERENNIALS FOR 2006
Achillea ‘Summer Wine’: Like all Yarrows, ‘Summer
Wine’ thrives in full sun and tolerates dry conditions and
rewards you with burgundy-wine colored flowers in summer,
fading to rose-pink as they age. This perennial grows 2’ tall
and is a great cut flower. A White Flower Farm selection. Z3
Aquilegia ‘Dorothy Rose’: Light rose-pink flowers adorn
red blooms do not have the typical drooping petals. ‘Vintage
Wine’ flowers best in full sun and grows to 3’ tall. Z3
Carex hachioensis ‘Evergold’: (Sedge) This cool season
grass has bold yellow variegation on narrow, arching leaves.
‘Evergold’ grows to 12’ tall and prefers partial shade. Z5
this variety of Columbine in early summer. ‘Dorothy Rose’
performs well in full sun to partial shade and grows to 2’ tall. It
has attractive light blue-green foliage. ‘Dorothy Rose’ is very
similar to a columbine that created a lot of “buzz” in the 2004
Portland Flower Show.
Hemerocallis ‘Black Stockings’: ‘Black Stockings’ will
Aquilegia ‘Songbird Cardinal’: Showy and attractive 3”
skyward facing, red and white flowers with long spurs bob atop
this perennial in early spring. Like most Columbines ‘Songbird
Cardinal’ flowers best in full sun to partial shade. This variety
has a compact habit and grows to 2’ tall.
summer flowers on a plant that enjoys morning sun and
afternoon shade. ‘Stoplight’ has bright yellow leaves with a
large dark red center spot which feathers out through the veins.
Its 6” height and flashy foliage make this perennial a boost for
any border. Z4
Astilbe: (False Spirea) What shady garden would be complete
Hosta: Got shade?
without a healthy, colorful swath of Astilbes? This year we are
adding 4 must have varieties to our selection.
 ‘Color Flash’: pink early summer plumes on a 20”
tall plant. In spring, foliage emerges rich green and
then changes to shades of oranges, burgundies and reds
throughout the season, creating intense landscape interest.
Z4
 ‘Heart and Soul’: Summer blooms are light pink and
show a lavender-blue sheen in early morning light. A
robust plant, ‘Heart and Soul’ grows to 32” tall. Z4
 ‘Burgundy’: Long-lasting deep red flowers appear in
summer. Glossy deep green foliage on a 2’ plant. Z4
 ‘Key West’: Abundant carmine-red summer flowers
combined with dark burgundy foliage make a stunning
plant. ‘Key West’ has a compact habit and grows 16-20”
tall. Z3
Brunnera macrophylla ‘Looking Glass’: (Perennial
Forget-Me-Not) ‘Looking Glass’ is a sport of ‘Jack Frost’
with striking, shiny leaves that are all silvery-green; a beautiful
contrast in a partially shaded garden. Blue flowers appear in
early summer. At 15” tall, this plant makes a nice groundcover
or border. Z3
Centaurea montana ‘Amethyst in Snow’: This Mountain
Bluet grows in full sun to partial shade. Summer blooms
of white petals look like feathered trumpets around a purple
flower center. ‘Amethyst in Snow’ forms a thick spreading
mound of deep green foliage; a compact plant of about 1 foot
tall. A Blooms of Bressingham introduction. Z3
add drama to your garden with the purple-black blooms and
dark green foliage. This heavy bloomer performs well in full
sun to partial shade and reaches 2 feet in height. Z2
Heucherella ‘Stoplight’: (Foamy Bells) White, early
 ‘Captain Kirk’: Sport of ‘Gold Standard’; foliage has a
wide golden center with a very wide dark green edge. The
1 ½’ tall by 3’ wide clump is topped with lavender flowers
in midsummer. Z3
 ‘Eskimo Pie’: New sport of ‘Northern Exposure’ with
round, corrugated blue-green leaves highlighted by large
creamy centers which lighten as the season progresses.
White flowers in midsummer above hardy 2’ tall clumps.
Z3
 ‘Dress Blues’: A cross with ‘Halcyon’ sporting heavy,
blue-green leaves, creamy margins. Lavender summer
flowers above 2’ tall and 3’ wide clump. Z3
 ‘T-Rex’: Huge Hosta deserving of its name - it might be
toothless, but it is still intimidating! Large, puckered blue
leaves are 18” long and 14” wide on a 30” tall plant. White
flowers in summer. Z3
Primula ‘North Hill Strain’: This candelabra type primula
blooms spring into summer. Profuse blossoms are melon, peach,
pale yellow and pink shades, and will attract hummingbirds and
butterflies. This 2’ tall plant does best in part to full shade. A
White Flower Farm selection. Z4
Salvia pratensis ‘Eveline’: Loaded with soft purple with pink
flowers from June through August. A sun-loving 2’ tall plant.
Z3
Veronica prostrata ‘Aztec Gold’: A masterful combination of
brilliant gold foliage and Bavarian-blue flowers in late spring.
Makes an excellent 6” groundcover. Z3
Judy Malloy
Echinacea ‘Vintage Wine’: Here’s an outstanding
Coneflower to add to your collection! Richly colored purple207-839-4262
page 4
© 2006 O’Donal’s Nurseries, Inc.
SPRING POND FROLICS
Possibly like you, I am already out playing in my awakening pond, even though I have learned that ponds
do not need any more care than the rest of the garden. Still, it is fun to tinker; that is, find an excuse
to play in the water, tickle the fish, sing to the frogs and manicure the awakening water plants. In the spirit
of pond frolics, here are a few suggestions to enhance your pond play.
•
Check for winter damage along the edges of your
aquatic enclosure. If the lining has slipped, make the
necessary tugs to get it back in place..
•
Gently scoop out the yummy debris that may have
accumulated over winter. Doesn’t it smell great? It
makes good compost, so add it to your pile.
•
Start your biological filter, if you have one (not your
clock) once the water temperature is above 50°. Keep in
mind it will take several weeks to cook up the friendly
bacteria. I sometimes add some friendly starter bacteria
to help things along. We have some available in our
store, of course.
is cold (50° or colder). Give them a small amount of
food that is high in carbohydrates, because there is no
plant life yet to munch on. Feed only as much as they
can eat in five minutes, then scoop out the remaining
food so it doesn’t add to the general decay. When the
water warms to 65° plus, the fish need protein. Bits
of worms make a good food source. Maybe a friendly
robin will help out.
There are more frolics to share, but I’ve used up my
allotted space. Why don’t you come in and we can talk
while we enjoy the embrace of the spring sun.
Ron Hager
•
If your pond plants spent the winter in deeper water
(2 – 3 feet), now is the time to raise them up. Place them
in their summer positions. When the lilies start to grow
(water temperature 65° +), you can divide them along
with other plants such as mini cat tails, rush, etc. You
will end up with twice as many plants. Isn’t it wonderful
how Nature works?
•
I like to replace some of my pond water to freshen
things up. Generally speaking, add about one-third the
pond volume over a two to three day period. The slow
addition helps to keep things in balance. Don’t add water
if your pond is into its natural spring algal bloom. The
algal bloom usually happens when the water temperature
reaches 65°, but before the plants can shade about twothirds of the surface. This early bloom should subside.
If not, come in and we can talk about some water
treatments.
•
Your pump should be up and running by now.
Make sure your waterfall or fountain is bubbling well,
thus adding life-giving oxygen to the water. I run my
pump 24/7 to keep a healthy oxygen level and to let the
gurgling sound aid my naptime.
For the Gardener:
Everything comes up roses when you‛re
deep in the dirt in your Crocs.
Ventilated so dirt and air pass through
but made of space-age material so they
are odorless and virtually weightless.
Ergonomic and orthotic, Crocs mold to
your feet. When your Crocs get dirty,
just wipe clean or hose off.
•
If you have minnows in your pond (not gold fish,
they are illegal) you can feed them just to stay on their
good side. They need just a little food when the water
page 5
odonalsnurseries.com
© 2006 O’Donal’s Nurseries, Inc.
PERENNIAL PLANT OF THE YEAR 2006
DIANTHUS GRATIANOPOLITANUS ‘FEUERHEXE’ (FIREWITCH)
The Perennial Plant Association is pleased to announce that the Perennial Plant of the Year 2006 is
Dianthus gratianopolitanus ‘Feuerhexe’ (Firewitch).
Cheddar pink is thc common name of this excellent sun-loving perennial. It is an evergreen variety with
bluish-gray, silvery foliage and purplish-pink, fragrant flowers in mid-spring. The Cheddar pink is excellent
as a border edger, a rock garden plant, planted in wall crevices, or as a ground cover on a sunny slope. In
mid to late spring, the plant is covered with flowers, and the air
filled with their clove-like, spicy fragrance. ‘Firewitch’ can also rebloom in summer and fall, especially if spent flowers are removed.
It is up to you!
is
Cold hardiness: USDA Zones 3-9
Light: full sun
Height: 3-4” Width: 6-12”
2006 CARY AWARD WINNERS
Each year, the Worcester County Horticultural Society announces the current Cary Award recipients. Visit
the
Japanese Umbrella-Pine ‘Wintergreen’
Sciadopitys verticillata ‘Wintergreen’
The thick, waxy needles of this most unusual tree are reminiscent of the spokes of an umbrella, hence the common
name. It is an evergreen conifer, native to Japan, where it is considered a sacred tree. It has survived for many
thousands of years; in fact, coal miners in Japan sometimes find “grass coal” which is the result of the compression of
Umbrella-pine needles. It is slow-growing and elegant, ultimately reaching a height of 30’- 60’ in cultivation. It forms
a dense, sometimes multi-stemmed pyramid, and prefers a rich, acidic soil, protected from winter winds.
The ‘Wintergreen’ cultivar, named by the late Dr. Sydney Waxman of the University of Connecticut, was chosen
because it retains its lustrous green color through the winter months. Hardy in USDA Zones 4-8.
Weeping Katsuratree
Cercidiphyllum japonicum ‘Morioka Weeping’
This deciduous tree is beautiful year-round. The 2-4” bluish-green leaves are reminiscent of Redbud (Cercis), hence
the botanical name Cercidiphyllum meaning “leaves like Cercis.” The leaves flutter in the slightest breeze, thus giving
the effect of a shimmering waterfall. Native to China and Japan, this cultivar will reach an ultimate height and width
of about 25-30’. The leaves turn a beautiful, earthy shade of orange and yellow in the fall, and exude a sweet scent
when they fall; some describe the fragrance as reminiscent of caramel.
Best used as a specimen, the Weeping Katsuratree prefers rich soil and plenty of water when getting established. It is
not commonly bothered by pests or diseases and hardy to USDA Zone 4.
207-839-4262
page 6
© 2006 O’Donal’s Nurseries, Inc.
HEUCHERA: THE PERFECT COMPANION PLANT
The popularity of foliage plants for the garden and containers
has been increasing by leaps and bounds over the past few
years. There have always been foliage plant collectors,
especially in the realm of shade gardening. But take note
Hosta lovers - Heucheras are fast becoming a rising star, and
for good reason. Breeders such as Dan Heims and Alan Bloom
have been revolutionizing the plants’ characteristics. With
over forty species to work with, it’s no wonder the choices are
dizzying.
The best cultivars are derived from four species: H. sanguinea,
H. micrantha, H. americana, and H. villosa. These are North
American natives which help them to be vigorous in our
environment. For the most part, Heucheras are long-lived and
remain evergreen even in severe climates. Thus, they retain
a beauty and interest year round. Plant ‘Chocolate Ruffles’
Heuchera and you will see what I mean - picture a lovely
lacy frost on its ruffled leaves on a chilly late fall or winter
morning.
The handsome foliage of Heucheras is generally rounded,
has 5-9 lobes, and leaves are toothed and often hairy. Color
choices due to breeding are virtually unlimited. The old
standby ‘Palace Purple’ (H. micrantha) with its bronzed red
leaves, has now been surpassed by a frenzy of hybridizing
between the micrantha and sanguinea species. Color variation
now includes silver, garnet, purple, black, chartreuse, greens
and autumnal hues of amber. There is a choice for every color
hunger and garden scheme.
Tracking Heuchera parentage and all its cultivars can be
overwhelming, and is further complicated by the fact that the
Heucheras are is the largest herbaceous genus grown only in
North America (I have counted well over forty). Basically
though, there are two general types- woodlanders and crevice
dwellers. Lucky for us, the showiest types tend to be the
Northeast woodlanders. This explains why they generally
prefer part shade conditions, and also why they fit into our
landscapes so well. Add the crevice dwellers types, and also
you have heucheras for dry conditions as well. Heucheras
are one of those rare easy plants to care for. Their needs are
simple- well drained soil, winter mulching to prevent heaving,
and occasional de-leafing, particularly in the spring. Hardiness
ranges from zones 3-5, especially for those offered here in
the Northeast. Generally, Heucheras are also disease and pest
free. Good drainage is the key to their health, so they may not
thrive in dense clay soils.
Because there are so many garden worthy Heucheras to
choose from it is a good idea to consider other attributes
page 7
such as flower color and vigor. Some have only minor or
insignificant flowers, but most have lovely sprays of panicle
flowers on long scapes in tones of pink, red and white.
Heuchera sanguinea, the one we commonly refer to as Coral
Bells, is the only red flowering species. Crossing it with
other species leads to cultivars that flower in an array of reds
and pinks. For splashy cream and green marbled foliage and
true red flowers, try ‘Monet.’ For pewter red foliage, darker
red veins, and bright red flowers we recommend ‘Swirling
Fantasy.’ Both are generally available at O’Donal’s sometime
after May1st.
The selection of Heucheras are far too numerous to cover
in one article. Just when I think I have a favorite, another
beautiflul one comes along. This past year brought us
‘Obsidian’ with seriously black, shiny large rounded leaves.
It sets off any flower or leaf in your garden. ‘Green Spice’ is a
bright green selection with silver edges and purple venation.
It has also proven to be quite vigorous. ‘Crème Brule’, a
vast improvement over ‘Amber Waves’, has autumn tones
of gold and rich browns while the reverse side of the leaf is
green. Finally, ‘Autumn Bride’ (a cultivar of H. villosa) is a
clean green with huge hairy leaves and dense white flowers; it
blooms much later in the summer than other Heucheras.
There are many reasons to try Heucheras if you haven’t
already. They make fantastic companion plants for both the
garden and containers because they contrast so well with
many different perennials, trees, and shrubs. Drought tolerant,
adaptable to various light conditions and easy care make them
a sure winner. Look for them on both the annual and perennial
benches here at O’Donal’s this spring and summer.
Suzanne Wakefield
odonalsnurseries.com
© 2006 O’Donal’s Nurseries, Inc.
MAINTAINING PERENNIAL GARDENS
People choose to plant perennial gardens for many reasons, but one of those reasons should not be that they are
maintenance free. It’s not that they are “high maintenance”, but, if you want your perennial garden to retain its
aesthetic appeal year after year, you must put some time and effort into its care.
Listed below are the key areas that should be considered:
WATERING/DRAINAGE Proper drainage is essential
garden, it suppress weeds, retains moisture and moderate
the temperature of the soil. For perennials, a quality
bark mulch (without red dyes) and buckwheat hulls are
excellent choices. Big chunks of bark nuggets, while
appropriate for some applications, may overpower some
of your smaller plants. Replenish mulch every three to
four years.
In most cases, established perennial gardens do not
require much additional water to that which Mother
Nature provides. Of course, there are exceptions.
During very hot, dry periods, additional watering is a
must. Established perennial roots systems will require
a watering regimen that penetrates at least 6-8 inches.
Another exception is with new plants. Very often, small
container perennials do not have very well developed root
systems. These plants dry out very quickly; thus, you will
need to take special care of them for the first two years
after planting. Lastly, on the issue of watering, some
perennials require above average quantities of water and
some prefer less than the average quantity. This later
category of plants, loosely called drought tolerant, are
adaptable to very dry conditions; however, even these
plants will require some moisture, particularly when they
are new in the ground. If you are have questions about
what perennials are best for you, please ask any of the
staff for assistance.
SOIL PH Generally speaking, most perennials will
for most perennials. If you amend the soil with
recommended amendments (see Spring 2005 Newsletter),
drainage should not be a problem. If, on the other hand,
your soil has too much clay, you may not only have a
problem with drainage, but it is likely that you will have
a soil pH problem as well (pH is easily tested).
FERTILIZING A properly amended soil base in your
perennial garden will not require much in the way of
additional fertilizer. Top dressing with compost every
other year or so will help to replenish soil trace elements,
which are lost over time. If you feel that you must
fertilize, natural amendments such as rock phosphate,
kelp meal and greensand are all very good. Low-nitrogen,
high-phosphorous granular products (5-10-0 or 5-10-5)
can be used as well. Liquid fertilizers such as MiracleGro are best reserved for your annuals. Be sure to ask
any of us at O’Donal’s if you are unsure which product is
best for you.
MULCHING A good quality mulch is a must for your
thrive in soils with a pH of 5.5 to 6.7. Fortunately, for
most of us here in Maine, those pH requirements are
satisfied by our existing soil. However, there are a few
perennials (like peonies) that prefer a slightly more
alkaline soil (i.e., a higher pH). If you have some of
those high pH plants, simply add some lime around the
plant every year. If you have any questions about pH
requirements for you plants, please don’t hesitate to ask.
If your garden is not thriving and you’re nurturing them
as you should, it may be time for a soil test. We can help
you with that as well.
WEEDING If there are any guarantees in life, this is one
of them. If mulched properly, however, weeding should
not be a burdensome task. My best advice is to attack
them early and often. If you don’t get them early, by
mid-summer you may be overrun. Once that happens,
you just may decide to let your garden return to its
natural condition. We don’t want that to happen! One
word of caution…. don’t use herbicides such as WeedB-Gone in your garden, no matter how careful you
think you are. Also avoid using those kinds of products
anywhere on windy days.
PEST/DISEASE CONTROL This is another one of those
life guarantees. You will get pests and more than likely,
some disease problems as well. The general advice is
to treat pests and diseases as naturally (biological and
organic controls) as possible; if that doesn’t work, then
use the most benign and specific chemical available.
Handpicking insects like Japanese Beetles and Lily Leaf
Beetles can often be just as effective as other options…..
and a whole lot less expensive. Bring samples (enclosed
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© 2006 O’Donal’s Nurseries, Inc.
continued from page 8
in a plastic bag) of the problem into the nursery, and we
will advise you on the best approach to eliminate the
problem. Remember, when spraying for insects with an
insecticide, the poison that kills the insect will also kill
butterflies and bees. In these situations, we recommend
you spray only after sundown when bees and butterflies
are no longer active. Also, spraying in the evenings when
there is less wind helps to avoid pesticide drift. Always
read the directions on the insecticide bottles (get out your
magnifying glass!) to ensure the bug you’re trying to get
rid of is specified on the label, and that the product is
safe for the plant varieties in question. Fungal problems
are usually treatable with a general purpose fungicide.
The key is to recognize the problem early and follow the
treatment plan specified on the product label.
DEADHEADING Deadheading is the art of removing
spent blooms. Other than aesthetics, there are at least two
good reasons for doing this. Many varieties of perennials
will actually rebloom if old flowers are removed. In
addition, deadheading will prevent the plant from
putting energy into the production of seeds. Hint: when
deadheading plants like Dianthus with hundreds of small
blooms, use a pair of sharp hedge clippers. Not very
elegant, but very effective! Plants like Nepeta (Catmint)
that are very vigorous sometimes benefit from a midsummer shearing as opposed to deadheading.
sections of your garden, or, better yet, give them to your
friends. For particularly vigorous spreaders that you
don’t want to deal with anymore, give them to folks that
you’re not particularly fond of and then break off all
communications. After living with their new plant for a
few years, they won’t want to talk with you anyway.
SEASONAL CLEANUP AND WINTER PREP Come fall, the
question is, should you cleanup and cutback all the dead
foliage now, or wait until spring. Actually, you can do
either, and most times both approaches work out just
fine. However, there is some logic to the theory that if
you leave this task until spring, the dead foliage actually
helps to protect the plant from the occasional heavy
spring frost. Obviously, if you like this theory, you’ll
need to wait on cutting back until the threat of a heavy
frost is over. Regardless of when you do your cleanup,
remember it’s very important to remove diseased foliage
from the garden as soon as you can. You do not want
those leaves sitting in the garden all winter. Fall is also
a good time to freshen up the mulch in your garden. This
will help to protect the plants over the winter, and will be
one less chore to do in the spring.
Happy Gardening!
Charles McNutt
DIVIDING There are three good reasons to divide
perennials: to help rejuvenate them, to control the size
of the plant, and to increase the number of plants. When
should you divide your perennials? Generally speaking,
if the plant is an early spring bloomer, divide it in the
fall (allow at least a month prior to the ground freezing);
if the plant is a summer or fall bloomer, you can divide
it in the spring. Whatever you do, don’t try to divide it
when it’s flowering, and also avoid doing it on hot, sunny
days. Tall plants should be cut back by about a 1/3 prior
to dividing. This enables the plant to put more energy
into new root growth rather than foliage growth. Most
(but not all) perennials are good candidates for dividing
after 4-5 years. One symptom that your plant needs
dividing is a circle in the middle of your clump seems to
be dying back. Using a good garden spade, remove the
entire plant from your garden and place the root ball on a
tarp. Then use a pitchfork or whatever tool you can come
up with to divide the plant into several clumps. Plants
are tough and you need not approach this as you would
heart surgery. Place one or two of the smaller clumps
back in the hole. Plant the other clumps in different
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Spring Events at O’Donal’s
Saturday & Sunday
April 29 & 30
O’Donal’s Open House
Get ready for the growing season with lots
of practical demonstrations and garden
information. See garden displays by local
landscapers. Meet landscape designers and see
portfolios of their work. Preview what’s new
for 2006 at our Nursery and Garden Shoppe.
Thursday June 1
Ladies Night at O’Donal’s
An evening of pampering for hard-working
women. Mark you calendar, call for details.
Stay tuned for more O’Donal’s events.
odonalsnurseries.com
© 2006 O’Donal’s Nurseries, Inc.
Outdoor Living - New
Choices at O’Donal’s
Inspired by the beautiful tones of
the earth and vibrant colors of
nature, O’Donal’s brings you new
ways to experience your garden
rooms. Dining alfresco has never
been more enjoyable with our new
collection of fresh air furnishings.
Wrought Iron with Travertine,
Natural Slate, or Terracotta Mosaic
Rich and subtle tones exude aged excellence while
delivering modern convenience and versatility. Elegant
inalid tiles accent the flowing curves of the iron frames.
Scoop Bistro Sets
A fun take on a classic style - these are the
tables you see in European squares and
piazzas. Vibrant colors make each set a focal
point on the balcony, on the patio, or in the
garden. Chairs are stackable and the table
folds for easy storage.
Shorea Wood
Mixing ingredients is often the recipe
for a fabulous dish. We are introducing
Shorea Wood and Textile combination
chairs and side tables. Shorea wood,
similar but denser than teak, is ideal for
outdoor furniture. The chairs are also
quite comfortable featuring 5-postion
arm and backrest.
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© 2006 O’Donal’s Nurseries, Inc.
WHY YARDSCAPE
Can anything be more satisfying than a fertile carpet of green grass? How about a healthy landscape that
features less lawn and beautiful plantings—all grown without the excessive use of pesticides, fertilizers and
water! Whether you’ve been wringing your hands over Japanese beetles or tired of slaving away on your lawn,
YARDSCAPING is for you. Join the growing number of Mainers who are commited to changing their yard
care ways. For the health of the environment, people and wildlife.
Why YardScape?
Reason #1: Water quality
Carpet-like lawns and beautiful yet hard to grow
plantings add value and enjoyment to any home. But
these benefits can come at tremendous cost to our
environment. Yard care practices can impact water
quality. The pesticides and fertilizers you apply to your
yard may wind up in our waterways. At risk are lakes,
streams and eventually the ocean.
Reason #6: Make a statement
A landscape rich in diverse vegetation is unique. It
expresses a property’s own character. Better yet, a lush
YARDSCAPER property conveys an important message
about aesthetics: environmental responsibility is always
in good taste.
Landscapes
Sometimes homeowners buy or nuture plants they
shouldn’t and wipe out bugs and plants they shouldn’t.
Reason #2: People, Pets and Wildlife
Too often people think pesticides are “safe” because
they can be bought at a store. This is absolutely not true!
Pesticides are designed to be toxic - that means they
kill something. If used incorrectly, a pesticide could
pose risks to people, pets and beneficial creatures and
plants. YARDSCAPING will help you grow lawns and
landscapes that create better habitats and demand less of
any chemical.
Consider this:
Maybe the pretty plant with the lovely bloom is really an
invasive outlaw that will spread out of control.
Maybe the bug spray squirted an hour ago will stay in the
soil for a long time and wind up in the lake after a heavy
rainfall. Plus, the bug was a good guy, helping keep other
pests at bay.
Maybe the shrub we planted is doomed to die in the tight,
wet spot we picked for it.
Reason #3: Money
A YARDSCAPE can save you money. Shrinking your
lawn and growing hardy plants will reduce out-of-pocket
costs: gasoline, pesticides, fertilizers, water, plants
and planting materials. In addition, preserving natural
resources, like lakes, from polluting chemicals can
increase your property value.
A green frame of mind:
YardScaping will help you make good gardening choices,
which will lead to better success in the dirt and a sense of
pride that only comes when you garden with our natural
resources in mind.
Reason #4: Time
Your time is valuable. Growing a YARDSCAPE, which
uses low maintenance plants and has only the amount of
lawn your lifestyle needs, adds up to more play time for
you.
Reason #5: Air pollution
Reducing your lawn size to what you really need is
YardScaping 101. Using a power mower consumes fossil
fuels and causes pollution. Think of it this way: one
power mower = 40 cars. In fact, a lawnmower pollutes as
much in one hour as an automobile driving 350 miles. It
is estimated the average American spends 40 hours every
year mowing their lawn.
Choosing Plants
Right plant, right place, right purpose.
The right plant will defend itself against pests, fit the
space, do well in the amount of sunlight and water that’s
available, and tolerate your soil’s pH.
Planting trees? Think small.
Small diameter trees require less maintenance and
become established in the landscape more quickly than
larger diameter trees.
Go native.
Try growing some native plants. They’re well adapted
to Maine’s climate, so that means less work and more
reward for you. Purchase only nursery grown natives, not
ones dug from the wild. Choose a few that are food for
birds, bees and other beneficial insects.
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© 2006 O’Donal’s Nurseries, Inc.
continued from page 11
Avoid invaders.
Stay away from invasive plants. They spread
uncontrollably, choking out native vegetation, which can
change forever the availability of food and shelter for
wildlife. Common culprits include purple loosestrife,
Japanese barberry, Oriental bittersweet, Japanese
knotweed and multiflora rose. If you’re harboring an
invasive plant already, remove it, including all of the
roots.
Prevent the predictable. Avoid plants prone to pest
problems. Shop for insect and disease-resistant plants to
further reduce the need for pesticides. You can get the
low down on a plant’s pest-off powers from plant books
and cataloges, garden centers, nurseries, and your county
Cooperative Extension office.
Plant buffers. Plant trees, shrubs and groundcovers to
create “buffers” (natural filters) along shorelines and
downhill of stormwater runoff. Do not rake up the “duff”
(nature’s mulch of twigs, pine needles and leaves ) in the
buffer zone.
Applying Design - Quick Tips
Develop a plant list.
The first step in designing is taking a close look at the
native landscape in your area to learn what plants thrive.
Non-native plants can have their place in your yard too.
Look for ones that are not known to escape into the wild
and require low maintenance. Finding out what not to
plant is just as important.
Welcome wildlife.
Landscaping for wildlife is healthy gardening at its
best. Gather critters and flitters by reducing your lawn,
planting in layers (trees, shrubs and groundcovers)
and aiming for a mix of species. Try plants that offer
sheltering thickets or produce nectar and fruit. Add water
like a pond or birdbath. Always have something in bloom
especially early on to attract insects that will in turn
attract birds. Add non-living materials like fallen logs,
stonewalls and feeders.
Consider your needs.
How do you use your yard? Playing, grilling or not at
all? What do you want in your yard? Flowers, birds, a
quiet place to sit and read? What are the characteristics
of your yard? Good drainage, swampy, low light, sunny?
What can you do to improve water quality? Reduce your
lawn, plant for wildlife?
Draw a map.
A Picasso you may not be, but a sketch of your property
207-839-4262
is indespensible in figuring out different landscape
designs. Include windows, doors, driveways, walks,
outbuildings, and existing trees, shrubs and plants.
Create space by building outdoor rooms.
Design rooms as you would in a house. Walls are trees,
shrubs, wildflowers, or structures like a fence. The
ceiling can be the sky or a tree. Think about how the
rooms will be used. Draw different rooms scenarios on
tracing paper to place over your map.
Plant buffers.
Plant trees, shrubs and groundcovers to create buffers
(natural filters) along shorelines and downhill of
stormwater runoff. Do not rake up the duff in the buffer
zone.
The Buffer zone: The strip of land and water at the
water’s edge. A properly cared for buffer acts like a
sponge filtering pollutants and keeps water clean and
clear.
Buffer Tips
· Stop mowing to the edge. Let the grass grow. It will
help filter pollutants.
· Preserve. Keep what’s growing naturally in your buffer
zone.
· Don’t bare all. Plant or mulch bare soil.
· Do not rake up the duff.
· Mix it up. Plant a mix of species of different heights
including shrubs and trees. Make sure they’re suited to
your soil and sunlight conditions. Try native plants.
· Forgo the fertilizer frenzy. Keeping lakes clean
means little to no fertilizer use. If you must: use small
amounts of organic matter or slow or timed release
fertilizers, and unless a soil test indicates a need,
always say NO to fertilizers contining phosphorus. For
phosporous free fertilizer sources go to http://www.
maine.gov/dep/blwq/doclake/fert/retailer.htm.
maine.gov/dep/blwq/doclake/fert/retailer.htm
· The wider the better. Bigger is better when it comes to
building a buffer, but any buffer is better than no buffer at all!
· What about my view? Let’s put it this way, if you
don’t buffer and your neighbors don’t buffer, then
you’re ruining your view anyway. Planting a buffer
protects water, but it also protects your property value.
Try groundcovers and low growing trees and shrubs.
· Plan your path. Paths should be winding to interrupt
the flow of rainwater. Cover bare soil with bark mulch or
crushed stone.
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© 2006 O’Donal’s Nurseries, Inc.
A CREATIVE GARDENING CHALLENGE: GARDENING ON HARD SURFACES
Do you have a dangerous old sidewalk…or maybe an
ugly paved driveway that needs a face lift? Believe
it or not, you can garden on hard surfaces. In your
fantasy world, you may imagine lots of room to garden
in rich, deep, humusy soil. The reality may be that your
best location for a garden is on top of old pavement, a
bad sidewalk, or less than attractive patio. Creating a
garden on an unwanted hard surface may prove to be
less expensive (and lots more fun) than removing the
old pavement and replacing it with new. This is also a
wonderful opportunity to gain ground on a small urban
lot which has been paved to death.
Since you can’t “scratch the surface” in these challenging
areas, here are some suggestions to garden successfully
on hard surfaces:
1.Use plants that are extremely hardy in your planting
zone. In fact, select plants one full hardiness zone
stronger if you can (i.e. use Z4 plants in Z5 area).
These plants will be less hardy than they would be if
planted in the ground.
2. The best soil to use is a well-drained amended loam: 2
parts compost, 1 part sand, 1 part loam. The soil depth
will depend on the plants to be used. Four inches of
soil supports small grasses, succulents, ground covers,
and mat-forming perennials. Six inches of soil supports annuals, rock garden and alpine plants, perennials, and shrubs that grow under 2 inches tall. Nine to
twelve inches of soil supports veggies and herbs. Sixteen inches of soil supports small trees (15’ at maturity) and medium-sized evergreens such as arborvitae
(although growth may be reduced). Two to three feet
of soil is needed for larger trees but the height may be
diminished. Remember, soil settles with time so be
prepared to add more soil mix after the settling occurs.
Every couple years you will need to top dress with airy
continued from page 12
· Shrink surfaces. Minimize hard surfaces like
pavement, patios, decks, roofs, compacted gravel and
compacted lawns. Direct runoff from these surfaces into a
buffer.
· Stop soil from taking a swim. Mulch exposed soil on
slopes or use erosion control netting. Water new plantings
carefully, use a silt fence or hay bales during construction
soil.
3. You will need materials for a retaining wall to hold the
soil. Be creative. Some suggestions for a more natural
look would be stones or driftwood, especially if the
soil depth is 6” or more. If the depth of the soil to be
retained is 4-6”, low growing ground cover plants such
as thyme, moss, succulents (sedum), orcreeping phlox
could be used. For a more formal look, any retaining
wall material can be used such as timbers, blocks, or
pavers.
4. Choose very hardy plants. Match the ultimate size of
plants with the depth of the soil. In other words, the
depth of soil needs to match the root growth. Light requirements need to be considered. A shady site needs
plants that will grow in shade. Likewise, a very hot
sunny area needs drought tolerant, sun loving plants.
This makes sense, I am sure!
5. After the plants are installed, water, water, water. The
watering requirements are the same as a thirsty potted
plant. It is possible that if the spot is sunny, almost
daily watering will be required in the summer or in a
dry spell. One helpful idea would be to use xerophytic
plants (plants that tolerate dry conditions). Another
helpful hint is to use plants that have similar water
needs.
The bottom line is that this is a fun and creative solution
to a potentially dangerous, unsightly, difficult problem.
Have fun!
For more ideas on this topic read: Gardening on
Pavement, Tables, and Hard Surfaces by George Schenk.
Timber Press
Judy Johnson
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odonalsnurseries.com
© 2006 O’Donal’s Nurseries, Inc.
ORCHIDS FOR BEGINNERS
Orchids are found on every continent except Antarctica. They
are not only found in tropical areas but in the subtropical areas,
lowland rain forests and even high elevation cloud forests.
There are even some orchids that grow in the Arctic circle.
A few orchids grow on rocks and are know as lithophytes.
Some grow on the ground and are considered terrestrial or
semi terrestrial. But almost 75% of all orchids are epiphytes,
or air plants; these orchids grow in trees, clinging to branches
for support. These orchids are the ones we usually see for sale.
Orchidaceae is probably the largest family of flowering plants
with about 700 genera, 20,000 species, and 40,000 hybrids.
Many of these orchids require extremely specialized growing
conditions that are hard to duplicate. Most of us have probably
heard a story about these orchids, and consequently are fearful
of trying to grow one. But not all orchids are difficult. Several
are actually considered very good starter plants for orchid
beginners. Please note that not all species within each genus
are easy but many of them are. These genera are listed below:
Beginner orchids: Cattleya, Dendrobium, Oncidium,
Paphiopedilum, Phalaenopsis
Cattleya “The Corsage Orchid”
Species known: 48 Native area: Central
& South America
Characteristics: Cattleya have large
showy flowers with spreading sepals
and petals, and a trumpet shaped lip
with gorgeous frilly edges. They are
best known as the corsage orchid but the
breeders have grown them so very large
and showy that they aren’t as practical for
that purpose. They are very popular as houseplants because
of their bright colorful and often fragrant flowers. These
epiphytes have well developed water storage organs called
pseudobulbs. These swollen stem bases have one or two
leaves each set on a stout, creeping stem. They have large
fleshy roots.
There are two major groups of Cattleya orchids:
unifoliate (1 leaf) often 12-16” tall; bifoliate (2 leaves) which
has smaller leaves, and long pseudobulbs.
There are many different shapes and sizes of Cattleya. The
“Minicats” at 6-12”,are great for houseplants. Most Cattleyas
have 1 period of active growth and bloom time per year but
some hybrids bloom more than once per year.
Light: Bright light, some sun; an east, west or lightly shaded
south window.
Temp: Mature plants need 15 to 20° F difference between day
and night. Nights of 55-60° F, days of 70-85° F. Keep out of
cold, dry air when blooming. Humidity: 50-60%
Water: Water enough to keep the pseudobulb plump, but let
the mix dry almost completely between waterings. It needs
more water during the active growing periods.
Fertilizer: Use a balanced fertilizer during the growing
season. Use it weekly, weakly – a quarter strength of the
recommended dilution (20-20-20).
Potting: Repot every 2-3 years in the spring in orchid mix
that has good drainage and aeration. Cattleyas do well in pots
and also in baskets.
Dendrobium “The Spray Orchid”
Sepcies known: 1,000+ Native area: India, Tropical Asia,
Indonesia, New Guinea, Australia, New Zealand
Characteristics: Dendrobium is one of the most recognizable
orchids. The colorful flowers grow in ones
to threes along the stems. The cane-like
pseudobulbs range from 2 inches to 6 feet in
length with alternate leaves along all or part of
the stem. The 1,000+ species belong to one of
4 basic cultural groups. They grow in climates
ranging from hot, humid and tropical, to cool
almost alpine conditions in the mountains.
Because there are so many different species
and conditions, please note that very general
growing conditions are listed.
Light: Bright light in an east, west or slightly
shaded south window.
Temp: Nights 60-65° F, and days 80-90° F. Mature plants
need a 15-20° F difference between night and day. They can
tolerate 95-100° F only if shading, humidity and air circulation
are increased. Keep out of cold dry air when blooming.
Temperatures below 50° F may cause flower drop. Humidity:
50-60%.
Water: Water and fertilize during the summer growth period.
Keep evenly moist. Mature plants should dry a bit between
waterings.
Potting: They like 4-6” clay or plastic pots, and tend to like
a smaller pot than you would expect for the plant size. They
also do well in baskets. Dendrobiums only need dividing
every 2-3 years – not every time you repot. They also like a
fairly coarse and free draining mix.
Oncidium:
“Dancing Lady Orchids”
Species known: 620 Native area: American tropics
Characteristics: They are known for their arching stem with
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© 2006 O’Donal’s Nurseries, Inc.
dozens of 1.5 – 2” dancing flowers. The small
mostly yellow or yellow brown flowers have
a prominent and often lobed lip. The main
bulb and two sub-bulbs behind it should be
plump, and the leaves should look plump and
unwrinkled. Lots of pleating in the leaves may
be the result of low humidity. They grow at
sea level in the tropics to the high elevation of
the Andes.
Light: Bright to almost full sun depending on
the species, close to an east or west window.
South windows are too hot in summer, but fine
in winter if screened with curtains.
Temp: 50-60° F at night and 80-85° F during
the day. Humidity: 30-80% depending on
the species. Many require less humidity than
other orchids.
Water: It varies with the species. Large, fleshier roots or
leaves need less frequent waterings than thinner leaved or
thinner root plants. Water thoroughly and let the pot dry about
half way through the pot before watering. It could be 2-10
days depending on pot size, planting medium, and weather.
Water less in non-growing season. To avoid root rot, do not
allow the water to linger on leaf bases.
Potting: Repot usually in the spring. Under pot mostly in 68” pots. They need good drainage in rapid drying mix. Some
varieties can go in baskets; smaller varieties can be mounted
on bark. Common orchid bark mix works well.
Paphiopedilum:
“Slipper Orchid”
Species known: 60 Native area: Asian Tropics
Characteristics: These orchids are often called the Lady
Slipper Orchid. All have large flowers with a characteristically
large pouched lip. The leaves are green or mottled green with
purplish undersides. Each flower spike carries 1 spectacular
long lasting bloom; some flowers last for several months.
Most are terrestrial (grown on the ground) but some grow
on rocks. Some slipper orchids are epiphytic and attach
themselves to trees.
Light: Moderate light of an east or south facing window.
Green leaved varieties need slightly brighter light and a bit
warmer than mottled varieties.
Temp: 59-82° F, without fluctuation from day to night.
Humidity: 50-60%. Paphiopedilum is not as demanding
about humidity as some other orchids. They do like good air
circulation.
Potting: Use fine bark plus a bit of peat or long fiber moss.
Repot it yearly even if you do not divide. Slipper orchids need
good drainage. A 4-6” plastic or clay pot works well.
Phalaenopsis:
“Moth Orchid”
Species known: 48 Native area: Asian Tropics
Characteristics: The Phalaenopsis are the most popular and
most recognized orchid in the world. Seventy-five percent
of all orchids purchased are Phalaenopsis. Noted for their 3’
arching vertical branch with a spray of rounded flat showy
flowers one after another along the stem, they resemble a
mobile of butterflies. They are available in an amazing variety
of flower colors. The leaves are large, and solid or mottled
green. The roots are easy to see crawling along the surface of
the mix and going down into the medium.
After flowering, do not cut back the flower spikes because they
may branch and reflower (for up to 2 months). Sometimes
some flower buds do not bloom. These keikis or babies can be
repotted when they are mature and have roots. They bloom for
long periods of time up to 2 months.
Light: East or southeast facing window. Similar light to an
African Violet. They do not like direct sun.
Temp: Best in 70-80° F range. Never below 50° or above
100°.
Humidity: 40-50%.
Water: Phalaenopsis have no pseudobulbs (water storage
organs) so they are not as drought tolerant as Cattleyas and
Oncidiums. Water more frequently when hot and dry. When
cool and overcast, water less (maybe 2 times per week). Keep
potting bark mix slightly damp; limp and wrinkled leaves may
be a sign of water stress – overwatering. Another indicator is
root color; healthy roots should be pewter colored when dry
and deep red or green when wet.
Potting: Most are potted in medium orchid bark potting mix in
4-8” clay or plastic pots. Some are grown in basket,s and some
varieties can be mounted specimens.
Here at the Garden Shoppe at O’Donal’s, we have some
captivating orchids for you to try growing at home, along with
free care sheets and reference books to purchase. So stop into
O’Donal’s, fall in love with an orchid, and gain the knowledge
you need to make you a confident orchid grower. Orchids do
not have to be intimidating. It’s all about knowing where to
start. Hope to see you soon.
Cheryl Hall
Water: Let the surface of the plant dry between waterings.
Water roughly every 7 days. The interior of the medium
should be slightly damp. When leaves are wrinkled and
droopy, it is too dry. They have no pseudobulbs to store water,
so they can not be dry for too long.
page 15
odonalsnurseries.com
ACROSS
1. SOIL ADMENDMENT
5. STYLES
9. AUTHOR FLEMING
12. JASON’S VESSEL
13. SPHERE OF INTEREST
14. RIVER IN SPAIN
15. ABOUND
16. TREE-LIKE SHRUB
1
2
3
4
5
12
13
15
16
18
21
18. HOARSE
20. COMPACT
21. WITHOUT
RECOMPENSE
23. TAXUS
24. ROTATING
MACHINE PART
25. CURLY OR FLAT
29. FLIGHTLESS
6
8
9
11
27
28
17
20
22
23
25
29
26
30
32
33
31
34
35
37
40
10
14
19
24
39
7
AUSTRALIAN
30. A YOUNG
SEAL
31. STELLA
D’___
32. CITIZENS OF
YEMEN
35. MIDDLE
EASTERN
36
38
41
42
43
44
45
48
49
50
51
52
53
46
47
MONETARY UNIT
37. WELCOME __
38. CHERRY RED
39. EXPECT
42. FRIGHTEN
43. COS AND
BUTTERHEAD
45. PLANT
48. POLLiNATOR
49. FUNGAL
DISEASE
50.
CONSEQUENTLY
51. DRINK MADE
FROM
52. SUFFIX
MEANING
‘LITTLE’
53. CULINARY
HERB
DOWN
1. TOUCH
2. BEFORE
3. FLOSS
FLOWER
4. LOVE APPLE
5. STINGERS
6. HIGHSOUNDING
7. ASSENT
8. SMOOTHER
9. ONCE PERSIA
10. AFFECTATION
O’DONAL’S NURSERIES, INC.
6 County Road
Gorham, ME 04038
Come in and pick up a free catalog.
11. STEM JOINT
17. CONDENSATIONS
19. TERM OF ADDRESS
21. NOVELIST ZANE
22. ETERNAL CITY
23. BARK
25. SIGN OF INFECTION
26. HONEYSUCKLE GENUS
27. EDWARDIAN AND SWING
28. YESTERYEAR
30. STONE
33. THROW OFF
34. CREATION
35. STUDY
36. BLUE AND YELLOW FLAGS
38. BEE’S CLASS
39. WHITE
40. GARDENER’S NEMESIS
41. “IT SUITS ME TO _______”
42. APHID OR SLUG
44. PRUNE
46. URGE ON
47. JOHN OR JANE _