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PDF Version - Western Financial Group
INSIDE: MANITOBA CATFISH s VILLAGE RAILWAY s POLAR BEARS s SLOW BBQ West Weste Financ Group ...because we live here. WESTERN CANADA'S MAGAZINE s SUMMER 2013 PLUS: Cruising on a BC coastal freighter, Farmers’ markets, Outdoors artists, and More BACK TO THE PAST BROOKS MEDIEVAL FAIRE y a s r .ca ougazine y e a v m Haisit west v TRAVEL is the only thing you purchase that makes you RICHER Book Your Vacation NOW and SAVE Earn AIR MILES Reward Miles and turn your AIR MILES into Marlin Travel gift certificates allowing YOU to SAVE up to $400 per person. Early Booking Bonuses will apply. You could WIN $500 off* your next vacation package! 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Used under license by LoyaltyOne, Inc, and Transat Distribution Canada Inc. Marlin Travel is a division of Transat Distribution Canada Inc. ON Reg. #50015084, BC Reg. #23567. Head Office: 191 The West Mall, Suite 700, Etobicoke, ON M9C 5K8. West Western Canada's Magazine • Summer 2013 Features 16 Cruising on a working boat Laurie Carter thought it might be fun to see the BC coast from the deck of a small freighter. Her report from out of the way spots on the coast will probably cause a sudden rush of passenger reservations. 20 Painting northern Saskatchewan We usually hear from Miriam Körner in winter. This time, it’s glorious summer and Miriam is out in her backyard, the world’s largest, with an old friend who’s teaching her how to really see nature. 24 Farmers’ markets make a comeback Believe it or not, just a few years ago there weren’t a lot of farmers’ markets in Western Canada. Now they’re all over the place. Judy Waytiuk visits a few and finds great buys and fascinating characters. 28 Manitoba’s ugly fish Inspired by US TV show Hillbilly Handfishin’, which is exactly what it sounds like, Bruce Masterman heads home to Manitoba to catch channel catfish and returns to Alberta as a Master Angler. 32 The good old, really old, days 16 20 For two days every year, Brooks, Alberta, normally an energy and agriculture centre, becomes something else – a medieval town complete with lords, ladies, and jousting. Victoria Chatham reports. 38 The unlikely Southern Prairie Railway 9 Bill Armstrong reports that, like a lot of Saskatchewan small towns, Ogema got creative in attracting tourists. They started with restoring the old railroad station then thought “Hey, why not a train?” Departments 6 Letters to the editor 9 Roundup 38 Manitobans as generous as ever … How clear is your lake’s water? … Rattler at the rodeo … Manitoba’s polar bears … Saskatchewan in jewelry … Disappearing hot springs … The ultimate small town history … Real Mexican food in a small town … Blake Berglund on the farm … plus Short shorts. 43 Health Matters Nurse Angela Morrison looks into the perils of Lyme Disease, now a problem in Western Canada. 49 44 Terroir & Simple and Delicious Cinda Chavich on BC’s extraordinarily delicious Dungeness crab. Then she walks us though the process of smoking – slow barbecuing – large cuts of meat. Also extraordinarily delicious. 48 Backgrounder What’s up with all the Medieval Fairs? … How to find a farmers’ market … Ogema was supposed to be Omega, but … On the Cover: Alison Mercer, historian at the Military Museums in Calgary and jouster at Brooks Medieval Faire. Photo by Bryce Meyer. 50 Editor raves He’s worried about pronouns of all things. West 3 West A Full Line of Products to Ease Your Peace of Mind As one of the largest property and casualty insurers in Canada, Wawanesa Insurance has the breadth of products to meet your diverse and ever-changing needs. With our outstanding claims service, policyholders become customers for life. Contact your local Western Financial Group Insurance Broker for more information about Wawanesa Insurance products. Weste Financ Group Published by Western Financial Group 1010 – 24th Street SE, High River, AB T1V 2A7 All rights reserved. To inquire about reprinting articles, excerpts or photographs, please email [email protected] Send Letters to the Editor to above address or email [email protected] PUBLISHER: Scott Tannas EDITOR: Mike McCormick General Manager: Bruce Masterman CONTRIBUTORS: AP Photo/George Frey, Bill Armstrong, Laurie Carter, Victoria Chatham, Cinda Chavich, Deep South Pioneer Museum, Christalee Froese, Jason Grover, Mike Kerr, Miriam Korner, Deborah Lawson, Manitoba Tourism, Bruce Masterman, Angela Morrison, Bryce Meyer, Diane Selkirk, Southern Prairie Railway, Mike Sturk, Thinkstock, Tourism British Columbia, Judy Waytiuk, Shel Zolkewich Publications mail agreement No. 40030911 Return Undeliverable Canadian Addresses to: RedPoint Media & Marketing Solutions 100, 1900 - 11th Street SE Calgary, Alberta T2G 3G2 SUBSCRIPTIONS Subscriptions in Canada: $12.00 plus GST for one year, $22.00 plus GST for two years. Payment may be made by cheque, money order, Visa or MasterCard to: RedPoint Media Group Inc. If you are receiving this magazine “Compliments of Western Financial Group” and would like to write to West, please contact: [email protected] All other subscription inquiries please contact: Phone: 1-877-963-9333 ext. 262 E-mail: [email protected] rsr Produced by: RedPoint Media & Marketing Solutions 100, 1900 – 11th Street SE Calgary, AB T2G 3G2 www.wawanesa.com Auto – Home – Business – Farm – Life and Group 4 West . ISSUE 29 . Summer 2013 PRESIDENT: Pete Graves Head of operations/CREATIVE: Anders Knudsen Senior account Manager: Pritha Kalar Senior project manager: Kelly Trinh ART DIRECTOR: David Willicome Sales MANAGER: Darrell Ittermann Account executives: Jocelyn Erhardt, Lindy Neustaedter PRODUCTION MANAGER: Mike Matovich PRODUCTION COORDINATOR: Jamie Buechler Sales Traffic Coordinator: Andrea Hendry PRINTING: Transcontinental LGM Circulation & Distribution Manager: Rob Kelly Welcome Welcome back to West This is our 29th issue. A re you familiar with the term “Old School”? It seems that we hear it a lot lately. It’s not the same as old, but it’s related. Old School refers to a way of doing things that was a lot more common in years past. Oddly enough, it’s a fairly new concept. For most of human history it took decades for anything to change and, occasionally, a century or two would go by with nothing changing at all. Now, with major changes every few months, we probably needed a new term to describe something slightly out of date that’s still in use by a lot of different people, young or old. Converse sneakers is one example. Another might be cruising the BC coast in a freight ship instead of a luxury liner, as Laurie Carter did for her story in this issue. You may have noticed that Old School can pop up in just about any aspect of our lives. Driving a stick shift even in a brand new car is Old School. So are reading a printed book (or a printed magazine like West), cooking a meal from scratch, mailing a letter, having a fireplace that burns wood instead of gas. Most elements of Old School are neither good nor bad though that might depend on your perspective. For instance, a friend told me about seeing some kids playing pond hockey in February. Apparently the same kids were playing touch football in an empty field last fall. Both scenes were once common in Western Canada but now they’re Old School. In neither case were the kids supervised by adults and they were having a lot of fun. Only one of the hockey players was wearing a helmet and any of the football players could have tripped over a furrow. So playing an informal game outside and unsupervised is potentially dangerous. Thirty years ago, it would have been entirely unremarkable but it’s Old School now. Even some businesses are starting to add an Old School element to how they handle customer service. A great many people are quite happy contacting companies via the Internet or a toll-free telephone call. The Old School way is in person. Western Financial Group does it every way you can think of and you choose whatever’s convenient. You could even email to tell us you’ll be dropping in. All the best, Scott Tannas President and CEO Western Financial Group West 5 Letters Dear Editor, We love the magazine as it has great stories and information. Thanks to Cinda Chavich’s article (Terroir, Spring 2013) we found out what tree we have in the backyard and will try to get more fruit from it. It is a sea-buckthorn, quite a nice looking tree. Tom Feist Trochu, Alta. Thanks for writing and glad Cinda’s Terroir helped. Being from Trochu with its wonderful arboretum, you would certainly know a nice looking tree when you see one. Ed. INSIDE: BIG OLD TREES s FEARLESS FALCON FIXER s WORLD’S BEST BEAGLES West ...because we live here. WESTERN CANADA'S MAGAZINE s SPRING 2013 GIVING POSTAGE ITS DUE PLUS: Hello, Just wanted to let you know that I like your West magazine. I am a fourth generation Calgarian and I am developing a real deep love for my city and country. Your magazine exemplifies the beautiful place we live. I loved the article about the stamps and looking for a way to access these beautiful works of art. I would like to enlarge some of them to frame and hang in my home. Or is there possibly a site where you could purchase them as a poster for hanging? I look forward to hearing from you and thanks in advance. Leslie Barrell Calgary, Alta. We wondered the same thing, so our Bruce Masterman got in touch with Canada Post. Here’s the response: Bruce, the issue is gorgeous — we so appreciate the coverage. As for the reader’s question. The old stamps aren’t on the premises. They live at Library and Archives Canada (LAC) and we need to approve usage of every stamp. We give permission to publishers, filmmakers, organizations relevant to the stamps, etc., and the requester has to pay a fee to get a file copy. But we (and LAC) simply aren’t set up to approve requests from individuals. There are also copyright concerns if they happen to sell the print down the road or quite innocently make a few to put on eBay — that kind of thing. The good news is that we sell framed prints of our more recent stamps. And if they aren’t in your local post office, you can order them online at http://www.canadapost.ca/shop/gifts-art/framedprints.jsf . We produce some new frames almost every quarter, so they should check back often 6 West . ISSUE 29 . Summer 2013 East Kootenay outings, Perils of sugar, Hidden art of YVR “International Agreement on Humane Trapping Western Financial Standards”. (www.canadainternational.gc.ca) Group y r sa .ca you azine ve ag Haisit westm v — the next quarter has some real beauties. Hope that helps. Again, thanks for sending me the new issue. I’m thrilled to see it and Deborah Lawson was a delight, full of well thought out questions — and really doing her research. I’m glad we had the chance to work together. Joy Parks Officer of Research and New Business Development Canada Post Dear West, In a letter to West (Spring, 2013), a reader from Kelowna, BC expressed her disappointment with the article on “The Thompson Fur Table — A Tradition of Trapping.” I am writing to clarify a few inaccuracies. First is the claim that “animals caught in traps suffer immensely while waiting for the trapper to come and kill them.” Trappers must check their traps daily, as stated in our province’s trapping regulations. Not only is this the ethical thing to do, but predators will make short work of any animal carcass found in a trap if it is not promptly picked up. Second is that your reader clearly lacks knowledge of any modern, humane traps or trapping standards. The new generation of “body grip traps” (e.g. Conibear design) does not hold any animal by the foot, paw, or leg. Leghold traps are banned in Canada unless used in a drowning set (for beaver). Canada was instrumental in the research and development of the new generation of humane traps, and completely supports the Third is the lack of awareness of the role of trapping in modern wildlife management. Trappers are often called upon in rural areas to harvest nuisance beavers, which cause millions of dollars of damage to highways, railbeds, bridges, agricultural land, and other infrastructure. They also control problem predators such as coyotes, wolves, and bears in rural Canada, especially in the western provinces. Trapping controls animal populations that left unchecked can easily become overpopulated and then, inevitably, they become controlled by Nature’s Laws, such as starvation, disease (rabies) or sarcoptic mange. Wildlife is a renewable resource. Modern trapping seasons and regulations do not endanger any furbearer. It is habitat loss which leads to most declining populations of furbearing animals. The trappers I have known over my career have the utmost respect for the land and the bounty it produces, and are keenly aware of the wildlife found in their registered traplines. They are frequently the “eyes and ears” out on the land, and work closely with wildlife biologists, foresters, and other resource managers. Regional Furbearer Councils, run by trappers on a volunteer basis, would be the first to recognize falling numbers, and take steps to respond to the situation. It would be great if more Canadians could visit a remote northern or First Nations community to see first hand how important those few extra dollars from the trapline really are. Then they would understand the smile on the face of the young boy during his visit to the Thompson Fur Table. A big “Thank You” to West magazine for providing a forum for Canadians to inform and educate others on sometimes controversial issues. Keep up the good work! Bob Austman Education Coordinator Manitoba Model Forest Pine Falls, Manitoba Dear Mr. Austman, Thanks for an interesting letter filled with info. Ed. WEST is always delighted to hear from readers. Please write: West Letters, Western Financial Group, 1010 – 24th Street SE, High River, AB T1V 2A7 or e-mail [email protected] 50 oFF % ursday or monday – tH ple 0137 0141 tickets online day. Save 42 % . 2013 operating Valid on any one print at home, of se Ea 4 + GS T. 4 tickets for $8 der online at Or s! ion line-up beat the admiss th any other wi rk.com. Not valid ww w.calawaypa rate, or after up gro or ily fam dis count, offer, 2pm rate. e only! cHase onlin pur save 42 % rk and Calaway RV Pa 1 night stay at Park for ay law Ca to 4 one-day passes Campground and – May 19, 2013. 17 y Ma : ds en ek We $109 + GS T. Open 2013. 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Call: 1-866-890-1960 Click: www.westernfinancialgroup.ca Visit: your local Western Financial Group office TravelMate ® Tra v e l I n s u ra n c e *The language in this document may not be the same as the actual policy wording which will prevail in all instances and is available upon request. Certain exclusions, limitations and conditions may apply. TravelMate is a registered trademark of and is administered by North American Air Travel Insurance Agents Ltd., d.b.a. Travel Underwriters, a licensed insurance broker. 11th Floor–6081 No. 3 Road, Richmond, BC Canada V6Y 2B2. Insurance is underwritten by Industrial Alliance Pacific Insurance and Financial Services Inc. and certain Lloyd’s Underwriters, severally and not jointly. 8 West . ISSUE 29 . Summer 2013 ROUNDUP The man from Moose Mountain Courtesy of Blake Berglund, photo by Jason Grover I t’s no surprise that Blake Berglund’s new album will be called “Ranch Colts”. Berglund, the 2011 Rising Star at Saskatchewan’s Country Music Awards, is all about the family ranch that shaped his life and his lyrics. He grew up in the hilly terrain near Kennedy in southeast Saskatchewan. His country/alternative sound on tunes like Where have all my horses gone, Love is like a rodeo and Get off the table, Mabel have made him a hit throughout the prairies and helped prove that there is an audience for down-to-earth ballads and rural-based lyrics. “Being raised on a farm has kept my music real and has allowed me to create a very authentic sound and style,” said the 29-year-old touring musician, who returns home between gigs to feed cattle and ride horses. “I love getting up at 5 a.m. and getting on the tractor. With all of the hustle and bustle of life on the road, going around and around for 15 hours a day is my escape, my meditation.” To listen to Blake Berglund’s music and see a list of upcoming shows, visit www.blakeberglund.com W West 9 Photo by Deborah Lawson ROUNDUP The simpler the better L eonardo da Vinci pretty well nailed it when he said “Simplicity is the ultimate sophistication.” Consider, for example, the 1865 invention of Jesuit priest and astronomer Pietro Angelo Secchi. His simple device to measure water transparency in lakes and oceans is still very much in use around the world. In Alberta, volunteers have been using the 20 cm diameter (8”) version of the Secchi disk to measure water transparency in the province’s lakes. (Ocean disks are about twice the size.) The concept is simple but you really have to pay attention. The weighted disk is attached to a measurement-marked rope or surveyor’s tape and lowered into the water until its black and white quadrant markings are no longer visible. The depth at which the disk seems to disappear, the Secchi depth, is a measure of water transparency. Simple, right? A volunteer group associated with the Alberta Lake Management Society and formed by retired electronic engineer Philip Sutton, has been using Secchi disks to conduct a province-wide survey, beginning with the nine Central Alberta Recreational Lakes (CARLs). For information about volunteering, contact Philip Sutton at 780-450-1277. You can see a virtual Secchi disk demo at www.mainelakedata.org/recertify/index.php. W Photo courtesy of Tourism British Columbia, photo by Russ Heinl The Shaken Springs of Haida Gwaii At first most folks thought the 7.7 magnitude earthquake that hit Haida Gwaii and BC’s northern coast last October did little more than generate a tsunami scare. Despite the size of the powerful earthquake, Canada’s second strongest ever, there were no injuries and only limited damage. But then people noticed that Hot Spring Island, known locally as Gandll K'in Gwaay, had lost its hot springs. The usually steaming pools were empty and the rocks were cool to the touch. Apparently this had happened before and, according to Haida mythology and oral history, the springs should return. By April, there was some thermal activity but no water in the pools. Not yet, anyway. The Geological Survey of Canada is now trying to determine whether the loss of the 26 hot springs and seeps which produce water ranging from 32 to 77 degrees Celsius is permanent. We sure hope not. W 10 West . ISSUE 29 . Summer 2013 Those Manitobans are at it again Last December, Tim Hortons launched a promotion called Random Cups of Kindness in which customers selected at random got their orders for free. Nice idea, but drive-through customers at the chain’s Beaverhill Boulevard store in Winnipeg took it to a whole new level. It started when one customer paid for the driver next in line. That actually happens with some regularity in Winnipeg but this time it went on for 228 orders, one after the other, over three hours! Nobody in Manitoba was really surprised. For 14 years in a row, it has been Canada’s most generous province, according to Vancouver’s Fraser Institute: highest percentage of donors to charity and highest average percentage of annual income donated. Michelle Robichaud, manager of public relations for Tim’s, said “It was incredibly heartwarming; it was an avalanche of kindness that our team members at Tim Hortons will never forget.” W Your guide to exploring exciting tourist attractions in Calgary, Alberta, Canada A T T R A C T I O N S A E R O S PA C E M U S E U M C A L A W AY PA R K C A L G A R Y S TA M P E D E CALGARY TOWER CALGARY ZOO C A N A D A’ S S P O R T S H A L L O F FA M E FORT CALGARY GLENBOW MUSEUM H E R I TA G E PA R K H I S T O R I C A L V I L L A G E N AT I O N A L M U S I C C E N T R E T E L U S S PA R K T H E M I L I TA R Y M U S E U M S W I N S P O R T ’ S C A N A D A O LY M P I C P A R K Valuable coupons at calgaryattractions.com West 11 Photo by Mike Sturk ROUNDUP Unrattled rodeo dudes L ast August's 47th annual Writing On Stone Rodeo was about to begin when a big prairie rattlesnake started slithering across the dirt infield toward the bleachers. The announcer yelled “Get your cameras out folks ...” but most of the folks just scattered. Perhaps the snake was disturbed from its territory by the rodeo stock on the other side of the infield or maybe it was just out hunting. What mattered was that it settled under the bleachers. After a few minutes, rodeo officials located the unwanted visitor and one of them, Deane Don't try this at home. Hughson of Foremost, Alta., grabbed the snake by its tail, making sure he kept the fangs at arm’s length. A cowboy offered a metal garbage can as a temporary cage until the rattler was released in the nearby hills. The whole thing looked so routine, you’d swear it happened every day. The two-day rodeo is held every August in a beautiful southern Alberta setting about 40 kilometres east of Milk River, not far from the US border and Writing On Stone Provincial Park. Well worth a visit. W More grasshoppers, please Photo by Christalee Froese They’re surprisingly delicious. The fact that they’re even here in tiny Verbank, Sask. is surprising. “Most people order (grasshoppers) as a dare, but when they come back, it’s one of the first things they ask for,” says Kevin Zimmerman who opened The Grotto Coffee House & Eatery with his wife, Cecilia, in 2007. The traditional Mexican cuisine comes from the soul of Cecilia Zimmerman, a Mexican journalist. She and Kevin met at the University of Oaxaca (wa-hah-keh). Three years later they married and moved to Kevin’s home town in 1993. “I missed my homemade tortillas so I started making them and I cried and cried because I couldn’t make them,” said Cecelia. The ingredients were not like those found in Mexico. This propelled Cecilia on a multi-year quest to villages in Mexico to learn their authentic cooking traditions. In 2007, after having two children and mastering Oaxacan cooking, Cecilia knew it was time to share her passion with a wider audience. Kevin says that Cecilia’s passion resulted in a long wait for a table at The Grotto. Best to reserve three or four months in advance. Then hop on over. W 12 West . ISSUE 29 . Summer 2013 When it comes to claims service, we’ve got you covered. At Aviva, we promise to deliver great service at every step of your insurance claim. And we back that promise with the Claims Service Satisfaction Guarantee*. That means if you’re not happy with our claims service, and we can’t resolve it, we’ll give you a cheque for the amount of your current premium. That’s right. All of it. To find out about all our insurance solutions, and our claims guarantee, speak to your Western Financial Group broker. avivacanada.com Home | Auto | Leisure & Lifestyle | Business Aviva and the Aviva logo are trademarks of Aviva plc and used under license by Aviva Canada Inc. and its subsidiary companies. *Terms and conditions apply. Visit www.avivacanada.com/claimsguarantee for details. West 13 ROUNDUP Not your typical smalltown history book Photo by Christalee Froese T he three-volume, 1,500-page combined histories of the Saskatchewan towns of Montmartre, Kendal, Candiac, Moffat, Mutrie and the Carry the Kettle Reservation were recently released after more than four years and 50,000 volunteer hours. Yes, there are family writeups and the classic community snapshots, but the scope and scale of this project has made it one of a kind, “ … almost like an encyclopedia,” said Frank Korvemaker, an appraisal archivist with the Saskatchewan Archives Board. Montmartre: History of the Village and RM 126 begins with French settlers who came to Saskatchewan believing they were coming to a scenic land where log cabins, food provisions, livestock and farm equipment would be provided. “No log houses awaited them; no trees broke the rolling grassland seen below them from the hills; there was no river in sight. They spent their first night under the stars being eaten by mosquitoes …” “We hope,” said Marrianne Couckuyt, chair of the Montmartre History Book Committee, “that when people read the book they have a sense of pride in all the things people endured and all the things that were accomplished.” For more information, contact the Village of Montmartre office at 306-424-2040 or Sandra Brown at 306-424-2622. W Jewelry that looks like Saskatchewan Photo by Christalee Froese Jolene Dusyk of Montmartre, Saskatchewan makes jewelry, and most of it actually feels like Saskatchewan. For instance, the scratches, dents and bumps on thumb-nail-sized pieces of metal come from barbed-wire fences, Saskatchewan snowstorms and birch bark. Then she created Saskatchewan-shaped pendants. She calls them Sask Tags. “I just love Saskatchewan and I do see actual fields and fences when I’m working with the silver and copper,” said Dusyk. “When I made the Sask Tags I was so excited because we have so much going on in Saskatchewan right now and this was my way to celebrate that.” Dusyk began experimenting with orange, red and black glass to create a design resembling Saskatchewan’s provincial flower, the western red lily. She says customers love that they can wear a little bit of prairie pride in a fashionable way. “I might not paint my face green and white on Saskatchewan Roughrider game days, but this is my own way of showing my prairie colours,” said Dusyk. To see more of Dusyk’s jewelry, visit www.jojobeads.com. W 14 West . ISSUE 29 . Summer 2013 Where oh where are the Polar Bears? Is Manitoba's polar bear population shrinking or just moving to Ontario? Some scientists believe that summers are longer up north and winter seal-hunting seasons are shorter, threatening a population once pegged at over 1,500 and now thought to be under 1,000. Many of Manitoba’s polar bears make their winter birthing dens in Wapusk National Park, but last summer researchers stumbled on a happy discovery southeast of the park along the Hudson Bay coast near Ontario: a lot more dens! They always knew there were some dens there, but not nearly as many as they found, said Daryll Hedman, northeast Manitoba provincial regional wildlife manager. The number of denning females in the area is at least equal to Wapusk’s and there could be even more. The discovery at the southern edge of the bears' range could mean that Manitoba’s polar bears are not in as much trouble as scientists had feared. The province has launched a threeyear study aimed at getting more information about the situation. Maybe the bears will just keep moving until people stop bothering them. W ROUNDUP Short shorts Photo of Kelly Olynyk AP Photo/George Frey Manitoba’s more than honourable position as Canada’s #1 charitable province … our favourite US college basketball team, the Gonzaga University Bulldogs of Spokane, At least Winnipeg’s Jets won’t be in the Southeast Division anymore. Next season, they’ll be the only Canadian team in what is so far called Division B in the Western Conference. The general idea is to create time-zone friendly divisions and reduce travel … Vancouver’s Fraser Institute once again confirms Washington – just south of the border – finished the season ranked #1 nationally. The Bulldogs were led by two Canadians, 7-footer Kelly Olynk of Kamloops, BC and 6’ 2” Kevin Pangos of Newmarket, Ont. … a motorist driving along a remote road on Vancouver Island came across a large African tortoise walking along the highway. The motorist took the spurred tortoise, named Alf, to a sanctuary which eventually reunited the escapee with the family that has had Alf for 15 years. They were surprised to learn that Alf is a female … most of the action in the current bestselling novel Canada by Richard Ford takes place in rural Saskatchewan. According to the back cover, it is “… a profound novel of boundaries traversed, innocence lost and reconciled, and the mysterious and consoling bonds of family.” Naturally, it’s about Americans. W West 15 Story and photos by Laurie Carter Closer to the waves Cruising in and out of BC’s fjords F rom my wind-buffeted vantage point aboard the motor vessel Aurora Explorer, the vivid yellow of the grasshopper-like logging machine squatting on our cargo deck is the sole relief in a world reduced to shades of grey — pewter sea, dove-hued clouds, surrounding forest rendered in charcoal. The only other vessel in sight on Johnstone Strait between Vancouver Island and the mainland north of Campbell River this mid-September afternoon conforms to the colour scheme. Rhapsody of the Seas looks like the White Cliffs of Dover towering over us as she muscles past, with no visible signs of life behind her rows of dark tinted windows. I reflect on the relative comfort of the 2,000-plus souls she carries — wouldn’t trade places for anything. My fellow adventurers feel the same. 16 West . ISSUE 29 . SUMMER 2013 This is a different kind of cruise The sighting of the Rhapsody sparks a lively discussion on cruise travel among the 12 passengers sitting in our own white linen splendour polishing off the complimentary wine after a homemade family-style meal of fresh green salad with should-be-bottled balsamic dressing, butter and lemon breaded halibut, a platter of firm, fresh broccoli, cauli and carrot slices, warm rolls and pecan pie à la mode. Bottom line, we all agree the passengers on that floating island have no idea what they’re missing. No way can they sail to the head of a slender fjord deep in the flank of BC’s all but uninhabited wilderness, nose up to a driftwood strewn beach for an impromptu shore excursion or float at the base of an unnamed ribbon of water cascading from the rainforest into the sea. They won’t feel the splash of white-sided dolphins frolicking off the stern quarter or smell the fishy breath of a spouting humpback. We have. Almost like home Three days ago, I boarded the 135-foot landing craft via the drawbridge bow, greeted by Captain Ron Stevenson and his crew of five including Donna Sawatzky, our all-important cook, and Shannon Brown, the mind-reading steward who anticipates our every whim. Squeezing past a diesel tanker and bags of fertilizer, pallets of tree seedlings, pick-ups, coiled cables and miscellaneous freight, I make my way to the stern castle where I’m soon settled in a closet-sized cabin, then back out on deck for departure. No calypso band or fruity drinks, but I’m welcome to pour a rum from my private supply and, anyway, I’m too busy checking out the surroundings to care about a band. It doesn’t take long to navigate our little world. Above the accommodation deck, the main cabin serves as lounge West 17 A slender fjord deep in the flank of BC’s all but uninhabited wilderness, nose up to a driftwood strewn beach. and dining room. Big windows provide expansive views and, hanging in the corner, a TV monitor constantly updates our charted GPS position. The mini fridge is stocked with soft drinks. Coffee and tea are always hot and Donna kills us with an endless supply of fresh baked cookies. A narrow companionway accesses the bridge overhead, where passengers are welcome any time with comfy seating arranged so that we can see the action without getting in the way. Passengers don’t work, but the crew sure does Our first stop is a pick-up and I watch in awe as the crew shoehorns a massive yellow logging machine onto the already crammed cargo deck. Throughout the voyage I’m impressed with their skill and efficiency, scooting around with a pair of forklifts, shifting boxes and trundling deliveries onto the steep landing stages of remote logging camps. We’re heading for one of those camps as we motor up Loughborough Inlet toward Frazer Bay. I’m reminded of the Chilean fjords. The Coast Mountains aren’t as tall as the Andes and we won’t spot any glaciers, but it’s the same kind of narrow passage — straight-sided walls, impenetrable forest. Suddenly I realize a shadow is crossing the deck and a faint hint of watery blue veiled by high thin cloud appears. It’s not much, but enough to bring life to the trees and shimmer to the sea. Before long the sun breaks through. 18 West . ISSUE 29 . SUMMER 2013 I have to strip off rain jacket, fleece and long pants. It’s lovely, baking in capris and T as we nose up to the tidy cluster of prefabs that forms Frazer Bay logging camp — complete with tiny helicopter pad on the point and floating repair shop at the landing. I bring my glass of red wine to the bridge deck, break out a chair from the locker and settle in to soak up some rays. Donna’s laid on bruschetta for snack time, perfect with the wine. Warmed inside and out, I exult in the vivid blue sky, turquoise sea and multihued greens of the mountainside. When we’ve offloaded enough supplies to keep the loggers fed for weeks, Captain Ron orders the engines into reverse. He and his mate Kevin Ryan constantly wow us with their seamanship as they maneuver the ungainly Aurora up to floating bunkhouses to top up domestic fuel tanks or pilot her into miniscule spaces like Echo Bay where there’s about a metre to spare between us and the lovely sailboat tethered at the dock. Face-to-Face With a Legend This is a stop we’ve all been anticipating because it’s the home of coastal legend Billy Proctor. A round golden dog limps down the angled jetty beside a wiry character of indeterminate age wearing blue jeans, blue peaked cap and a bulky cardigan knit in a red, white and blue sailboat pattern straight out of my memory of the 60s. Ron gives us 20 minutes and we swarm up the plank for our first steps ashore in two days. Billy’s little museum is housed in a clapboard cabin filled with floor-toceiling shelves. Rows of beached bottles form neat ranks backlit (once-again) by grey skies. Antique bits include glass net floats, stone anchors, hydro insulators, a parade of fishhooks and a newspaper with a headline proclaiming the moon landing. Even in this remote place, Billy’s museum attracts more than 3,000 visitors a year. Travel Insurance Tips What would you do in the event of a medical emergency while travelling? Having a reliable travel insurance assistance provider lets you travel with confidence, but knowing what you can do to protect yourself is essential. Here’s why calling your assistance provider is the first step in protecting your health and financial well-being. Not all medical facilities are created equal. When you are away from home, it’s difficult to know where to go. Call your assistance provider immediately. They’ll help you locate and get to the most appropriate facility. Far left: The Aurora’s tireless steward, Shannon Brown. I buy two of his books and he signs them. When Ron toots the whistle, Billy walks us back to the Aurora, grumbling about damn pictures because everybody’s begging him to pose. That evening I get started on Heart of the Raincoast: A Life Story — riveting. Glimpses of Coastal Life The muted thrum of the engine is our constant soundtrack. As I lie in my bunk one morning, a change in the tone alerts me to new activity. I roll over for a look out the window and find a pair of boom boats whipping around like sheep dogs herding a flock of floating logs. Their operators jump on and off, trotting along the slippery tree trunks as though they’re out for a jog in the country. Another day I’m lingering over coffee when the settlement of Alert Bay appears through the mist. On a hill above the harbour, totem poles pierce the sky. With only one hour shore leave I beeline for the First Nations burial ground and eventually realize that I’ve spent too much time and won’t be able to make it into town to visit the museum next Near left: Captain Ron Stevenson maneuvers the ungainly Aurora. Above: Waiting for the tide to be right before leaving Alert Bay. to the ruins of a residential school and the little white church with its Gothic gingerbread steeple. On our final day I’m perched on a guest stool in the wheelhouse. Shadowy headlands slowly solidify and darken as we come abeam and each tree crowding the shore stands in sharp focus, the tideline drawn with a ruler. Ron points out a solitary bald eagle and, later, a couple of sea lions swimming off the point as we make our turn home into Menzies Bay. We’ve covered 456 nautical miles in five days and I’m ready to go again. West Okanagan-based writer and photographer Laurie Carter is hard at work on her next Grandma Wears Hiking Boots book. Visit her at LaurieCarter.com Not all facilities operate ethically. In some cases, travellers have been provided elective treatment, with or without their knowledge. This is not included in your policy and can result in a claim being denied. Notifying your assistance provider pre-treatment, will ensure you only receive the care you need. Your provider may be able to coordinate direct billing to cover medical expenses so you don’t have to pay out-of-pocket. Ensure you have access to a credit card as well. In certain instances, hospitals may request a deposit and will not treat patients who cannot pay up-front. Keep your original receipts and include them when submitting a claim. Your assistance provider’s toll-free number can be found on your wallet card, which along with your policy details and a form of payment, should be carried at all times. For more information or to find a travel insurance plan that’s right for you, visit www.westernfinancialgroup.ca today. West 19 Story and photos by Miriam Körner 2 The Group A Wilderness Painting Adventure 20 West . ISSUE 29 . SUMMER 2013 2 of Rigmor Clarke waves her paintbrush at the fluffy clouds. “See the mauve in the cloud? Little bit of Yellow Ochre there, a touch of Crimson here.” White clouds and blue sky, that’s all I see. It’s Day 2 of our week-long painting trip in northern Saskatchewan’s Wild Country as Rigmor calls it. Sitting next to the 77-year old artist I suddenly feel like a five-year old as she points out colours and shapes and describes patiently what she sees. “Light and dark, light and dark, that’s all you do,” explains Rigmor as she slabs bold streaks of paint on the canvas. Within a couple of minutes a landscape forms, simple, expressive, stark. a windy day. Each canvas filled with admiration and longing for the wild country. “I miss the rocky country,” she had told me over a cup of tea. “It’s been a long time since I was there.” I mentioned my little cabin on a small island 60 kilometres north of La Ronge. Her eyes lit up. “Let’s go paint there in the summer,” she said and the matter was settled. Just like that. “Let’s go paint” The 14 foot boat is rocking gently in the breeze. It’s early enough for the vibrant colours of first sunlight. Without hesitation, Rigmor picks up all the colours she sees in the sky from her palette and puts them down with a single stroke, never correcting a line or colour. Rigmor just started her third painting while I still labour on my first canvas. It’s my first time painting plein-air; my I had first met Rigmor last winter at Forest Raven Art Studio near Shell Lake, 135 km north of Saskatoon. Her studio was crammed with gigantic canvases: tall spruce trees reflected in the calm waters of one of northern Saskatchewan’s 100,000 lakes, dramatic skies over the charcoaled trees of an old burn, a little birch tree enduring And we head north brush strokes are too careful, unsure and corrected a million times. The sun quickly rises and the heat becomes unbearable. I have only one thought: Diving into the cool water. My brushstrokes become faster as soon as I stop thinking about the painting process. I loosen up. Done! Apron and painting clothes are shed quickly. The water is cool and refreshing. ‘There are many ways to enjoy northern Saskatchewan’s wilderness,’ I think, smiling. Swimming is definitely one of my favourites. The call of the wild Over the years I came to think about ‘The North Country’ as Rigmor calls it more and more as my backyard than wilderness. We both emigrated from Europe. Rigmor came with her parents from Sweden in 1949, long before I was born. I came from Germany in 2002. We both have seen many places, and we found what we were looking for in northern Saskatchewan: Rugged beauty and untamed wilderness. West 21 “I’m always searching for that elusive soul landscape, like the first one I saw on Lake Grycken in Sweden when I was still a child.” Rigmor first ventured into that wilderness on a 1972 painting expedition down the Churchill River by canoe. For nearly 30 years she returned year after year, turning her boat into a moving art studio. To Rigmor, northern Saskatchewan is a land that is hard, cruel, unforgiving, wild, untamed and immensely beautiful. “A land that will suffer no fools.” I moved to northern Saskatchewan 10 years ago. To me it’s simply home. Listening to the land We are painting perched right beside a waterfall on a small, unnamed creek. “It’s so beautiful,” says Rigmor and then I hear nothing from her; she is lost in her painting. “I become emotionally 22 West . ISSUE 29 . SUMMER 2013 emerged into the landscape,” she tells me later. “I’m always searching for that elusive soul landscape, like the first one I saw on Lake Grycken in Sweden when I was still a child.” The little creek tinkling over rocks and fallen trees seems to be one of those special places for Rigmor. I think about one of Rigmor’s poems that starts: the rocks and the trees. The land itself is what I have to try to capture. I’m excited to paint the same scene again, only now I would look less and listen more. What shape has the gurgling sound of water rushing over rocks? I have learned To be as one of the land You first have to let go of everything you think you are And become nothing, Only then can you begin to see and hear the land speak, […] The sky darkens. ‘Faster,’ I say to myself. ‘Paint faster!’ When the thunder shakes the ground, we can’t ignore it any longer. We quickly pack up our paints. Rigmor’s words about a land that suffers no fools echo in my head as we rush to protect the paintings from the sudden downpour. I’m drenched, but when I look at Rigmor I can’t stop laughing. She stands in the middle of the wilderness, a day trip away from It is not just a poem. It’s an instruction on how to paint. I suddenly realize it’s not about painting the water, Suddenly, thunderclouds the nearest road under a polka-dotted umbrella. Mary Poppins out-of-place. We both grin. The force of the thunderstorm reminds us of why we are here. Untamed nature. Lightning pierces the sky, a cool breeze sweeps away the hot summer air. We quickly launch the boat when we see a break in the dark sky. We sneak ahead of the next thunderclouds rolling in behind us and sigh with relief when we reach the warmth and safety of the cabin. But I am restless; I want to be outside and painting. Suddenly, I realize why. This is how the land speaks to me. I need to feel the wind tussling my hair, feel the ground shake under my feet, and anticipate the change that is blowing over the land. This is my soul landscape. We move our outdoor studio indoors, but the thunderstorm with its dramatic sky has passed. I missed my chance. I stare out the window into the dark forest and pick up my paintbrush. Suddenly, the forest floor comes alive with the intense colours just after a storm. The drama of light and shadow unfolds before my eyes. I paint without thinking. When I’m done a dark forest is looming like a thundercloud behind a crooked little birch tree. I can almost feel the wind rustling its leaves, see it shake in the echo of a distant thunder and stretch its branches out to the rain that will undoubtedly fall. When the rain eases off, we walk out to watch the clouds drift by. And suddenly, I can see the colours in the clouds: The washed out yellows and reds on the dark underside of the clouds shine clearly through the blue grey. As if Rigmor can read my thoughts she says: “You’ll never look at the clouds the same way again, will you?” “No,” I say and feel like The Little Prince in Antoine de Saint-Exupéry’s novel when the fox reveals his secret: “It’s only with the heart that one can see rightly. What is essential is invisible to the eye.” West Miriam Körner is a freelance writer, photographer and wilderness guide. She lives at Potato Lake, near La Ronge, Saskatchewan. You can contact her at [email protected] Do you have a solid foundation? Finally - An affordable 5-year term life insurance policy The lifeFoundation is a $100,000 tax-free benefit designed to provide your family with a solid financial base should anything happen to you while you’re building your life. It is great protection and the economic benefits add up to a remarkable value, starting with very reasonable premiums. More important, your renewal premium will stay low and age appropriate with no medical exam required, ever, all the way to age 85. Contact your local Western Financial Group office for more information and to get the right coverage for you. www.westernfinancialgroup.ca/lifefoundation Some conditions apply. This is a general description of coverage available. Actual policy conditions govern. Available for individuals aged 18-64. West 23 Story and photos by Judy Waytiuk farmers’ markets Local, real, fun I t’s a sunny, sweet Saturday summer morning. We’ve raided the kitchen money pot for coins, and we’re off to the farmers’ market where sellers appreciate change in payment, because they often run short. On our list: fresh veggies, Jamaica molasses loaf — if she hasn’t sold out, Vietnamese spring rolls, elk sausage, a bison roast, and potted wildflower Prairie plants for the yard. We also have to order fresh-frozen free range roasting chickens for winter, and we want mint and lavender soap. An experience that almost disappeared Before there were grocery stores, farmers' markets speckled Canada's frontier West like measles on a toddler's face. But then along came supermarkets. 24 West . ISSUE 29 . SUMMER 2013 By 1970 only four farmers’ markets were left in Alberta, including the Edmonton City Market, Alberta’s first farmers’ market, established in 1900. Now, Alberta boasts more than 100, and in BC, Saskatchewan and Manitoba, the movement’s equally robust. Most markets set up once a week for just a few hours in parking lots in smaller towns, or in roadside pastures in rural areas. Towns and cities have begun adopting the farmers’ market idea to bring suburbanites back to downtown areas for a day or two every week. A few run indoors year-round in permanent quarters, selling mostly craftworks and home-prepared foods in winter. The Saskatoon Farmers’ Market began in 1975 as an outdoor market, but moved in 2007 to an all-year indoor spot in a former civic garage at the city’s River Landing, with an outdoor Market Square for summer-only use. In every province now, a farmers’ market association ensures the markets remain wholesome, not overly commercialized, and that what’s on offer has been grown or made by the seller. Buskers often entertain crowds, with guitar or violin cases propped open hopefully. The St. Albert Farmers’ Market in northwest Edmonton, Western Canada’s biggest outdoor market with more than 250 vendors, has been running since 1982 and pulls in as many as 15,000 people every Saturday from June to October. Just south of Winnipeg, Marché St. Norbert Farmers Market sprang into wobbly being in 1988, on a patch of grass with eight sellers camped in the open air offering produce. It’s ballooned into the province’s largest summer market, where more than 150 vendors see thousands of Saturday visitors. ’ West 25 You never know … Consider Donamae Hilton, a St. Norbert vendor. Every week, she bakes 2,500 dog cookies (chicken liver, beef, sweet potato, bacon/cheese, and a bunch of other flavours dogs love). She carries knitting everywhere she goes, making sweaters of all sizes and shapes. She started making sweaters because she couldn’t buy any that fit her dogs: a lanky basset hound and a little bagel (basset/beagle cross). And she kept on knitting. Same with the cookies. “I didn’t like that I didn’t know, or couldn’t pronounce, what was in their treats,” she says of her decision to start baking her dogs their own cookies back in the late eighties. When she joined the farmers’ market, she exponentially increased both the volume of baking and her cookie varieties — and shapes. “The dogs really like their butterflies and their fireplugs.” It’s obvious why shoppers flock to 26 West . ISSUE 29 . SUMMER 2013 these markets. “They want something unique that they can’t find anywhere else, and that’s a good price,” says Gimli market quilt-maker Nancy Lamb. The market she attends runs Saturdays, squeezed onto a wide sidewalk space in the small Manitoba town of Gimli. … what you’re going to find Seniors, especially former farmers who’ve retired to small villages, appreciate their small local rural markets for genuinely fresh vegetables, baking, tchotchkes, pickles, pottery, all sold by the person who grew it, raised it, or made it. Organic growers and vegans tout wholesome wares and bread made with strange-name grains. If you’re hungry, larger markets even have versions of fast food stalls — grilled kielbasa on a bun, cookies, cakes, coffee, hot dogs or burgers fresh off small portable grills. At the tiny Arnes market north of Gimli, with fewer than ten vendors, an old wood-fired stone oven, once used to bake bread, now makes pizzas. What's in it for the people who grow, make, or bake the stuff they sell? At first glance, not much. They haul their offerings to their stalls every week, set up, gab with strangers all day, take it all down, and do it all over again next week. Well, it’s one way to deal with an out-ofcontrol hobby, notes Lamb, a compulsive quilter. She’s been at her stall every summer for ten years. “After I had given away so many, I still kept making them — and I thought I’d better start selling them and at least get some money back for all the fabric I’d been buying.” Lamb usually sells about three-quarters of the quilts she makes, enough to justify making more quilts for the next year. Dorothy Freund and her husband run a Christmas tree farm in winter, and have a whole separate building with a kitchen where Freund pickles her heart out every fall, making up hundreds of jars of Redpoll Farms jams, jellies, and pickles. She sells them at the St. Norbert, Steinbach and Pineridge Hollow markets. “I grew up in a country home, and we just always canned. I remember always doing that at home,” says Freund, who uses old recipes from cookbooks long gone. The resulting jars look professional enough to have been done on an assembly line, but nope. She says “I still use the home canner that has seven quarts in it at a time,” and she’s sometimes been up until five in the morning finishing her most popular item — dill pickles. It’s a lot of work for little cash return, especially when the weather won’t co-operate and some market grounds become a muddy mess. “Would you ever get rich on this or do it for a living? No,” says Freund. “But it’s worth my time because I’ve always loved gardening and canning. The love of doing it is more why a person does it.” And Donamae Hilton, the dog-cookie baker? “I like people — though I prefer dogs more,” she says. “I go out there with my silly hats on, and it’s always fun.” She also has a fulltime job, but made enough through the market last year to buy a freezer and a coffee machine. We added dog cookies to the list. Ours love the cow-shaped ones. West Manitoba-based travel writer Judy Waytiuk crams her cupboards and freezer full of goodies gathered in summer from farmers' markets across Canada. Saskatoon berry jelly, anyone? West 27 by Bruce Masterman g n i h s i F Cats for When I was a kid in Winnipeg, we thought of catfish as garbage fish. If we ever accidentally caught one, we’d throw it back with childish disdain. So what was I doing, decades later, fishing for catfish, and only catfish, the bigger the better? Having fun, that’s what. It started at the crack of dawn “Get ready for a fishing adventure like you’ve never had before,” guide Todd Longley announced when we met at a pier on the Red River in the town of Selkirk, just north of Winnipeg. Hype, I thought. Oh, how wrong can one man be? 28 West . ISSUE 29 . SUMMER 2013 Forty-five minutes later, the tip of the fiberglass rod started an almost imperceptible tap-tap motion signaling a biting fish. Longley cautioned me to be patient. “Give it time to really eat the bait,” he said. Then … “Now!” he barked. I cranked back on the rod and felt dead weight. I thought I’d snagged the river bottom, until the snag started pulling back. The fish fought hard, but it was no match for the 30 pound test line and sturdy rod. A few minutes later, Longley netted the channel catfish and handed it to me. At 32 inches and 14 pounds, it was the biggest freshwater fish I’d ever caught. “That’s just a baby,” laughed Longley. He should know Since he started his City Cats guiding service (www.citycats.ca) in 1999, Longley has guided clients from across North America to thousands of huge channel catfish. He strives to get his clients into Manitoba’s Master Angler (MA) awards record book, which requires anglers to catch fish of specified minimum lengths, with witnesses, of course. For channel catfish, the magic number is 34 inches (86.3 centimetres). A 46.5-inch monster caught in 1992 is Manitoba’s biggest recorded catfish. Even though I’d fished in Manitoba practically my whole life, I’d never caught a fish of any species that quali- fied for an MA award. Longley had promised to correct that. So had my fishing partner for the day, Shel Zolkewich, a regular West writer who works as a fishing and hunting consultant for Travel Manitoba. She also made a promise, only hers was to out-fish me. Her exact words: “I’m going to kick your butt.” West 29 Like fishing with ZZ Top Even though Longley, 47, has never played an instrument or sung a note on stage, he bills himself as the Rock and Roll Fisherman and he looks the part: husky build, straggly shoulder-length hair and scruffy salt-and-pepper beard. He was wearing a sleeveless Harley Davidson t-shirt, faded jeans and redlaced, red-soled sneakers. His biceps sport tattoos, including a scary looking catfish on his left arm. Longley’s professional motto, Go Big or Go Home, seems redundant. After working the graveyard shift on the dock of a soft drink company in Winnipeg, Longley drives off in his truck, towing his 19-foot fiberglass boat (with its 150 horsepower motor), to meet clients at the dock in Selkirk. Fishing for Manitoba catfish became popular about 20 years ago when anglers began catching tackle-testing 20 to 30 pound fish in the Red River. It 30 West . ISSUE 29 . SUMMER 2013 flows north from Minnesota and North Dakota through Winnipeg and into Lake Winnipeg. The Red River soon became known as the catfish capital of North America. It boasts 90 percent of the catfish that qualified for Master Angler awards. Catfish thrive on the river’s plentiful goldeye, sauger and other fish, and are protected by provincial regulations that require bigger fish to be released. Word spread and soon anglers were visiting from Missouri, Nebraska and other states famous for catfish. Catfish are ugly Although catfish can be excellent eating, almost all the cats caught in Manitoba are released. We don’t go after them for food and we certainly don’t want them for their looks. They’re singularly unattractive. Their smooth bodies are blue-grey with white on the bottom. Their heads are huge, with wide toothless mouths fringed with whisker-like barbels equipped with sensors used to find food on muddy river bottoms. “There’s something slightly comical about catching a fish that’s so ugly — in a loveable way,” Zolkewich says. Most anglers fish for them for one reason: to experience the brute strength of a big catfish at the end of the line. In recent years, the catfish’s unlikely star continued to rise through American reality television shows like Hillbilly Handfishin’, in which guests use their hands and feet to catch big cats in Oklahoma rivers and lakes. It’s called noodling. To my wife’s horror, I love the show. Chasing the big whiskered trash fish of my youth became a dream. Winnipeg is closer than Oklahoma — and, apparently, a handfishin’-free zone — so I tackled the big catfish the more traditional way. Previous page, photo by Shel Zolkewitch; this page, left and top right photos by Bruce Masterman; magazine cover courtesy of Manitoba Tourism. Photo on page 28: Todd Longley (left) helps Bruce Masterman celebrate his largest catfish. This page, clockwise from left: Shel Zolkewich hoists the day's biggest catfish; Longley measures a channel catfish; a monster channel cat graces the cover of this year’s Manitoba Fishing Guide. And that’s how I found myself on the Red River last June After that baby catfish, Zolkewich and I managed to catch a few freshwater drum, also called silver bass, including one that missed qualifying for a Master Angler award by a quarter of an inch. But we were fishing for catfish. With the boat anchored in the sluggish yet powerful current, we once again baited our hooks with hunks of goldeye and jumbo prawns and let a heavy sinker carry them to the muddy bottom. As the morning heated up in the blazing sun, I hooked another cat. At 16 pounds, this one was bigger than the first but, at 33.5 inches, a half inch short of the elusive Master Angler mark. Minutes later, another fish bit and I knew this was it. A Master Angler at last The fish hugged the bottom for several minutes. After a lot of give and take, I managed to bring it to the waiting net. When Longley laid it along the official tape affixed to the boat seat, it measured 34 inches even. My first Master Angler fish! After the 20-pounder was released, I high-fived Longley and Zolkewich and declared the next fish was hers. My mistake. At noon, one of the rods in the holders started throbbing and Zolkewich grabbed it. The fish took her from one side of the boat to the other, but she wasn’t giving up. Finally, Longley slipped the net under the fish and hoisted it aboard. It was 35.5 inches and 25 pounds. Although Zolkewich already had “maybe two or three” MA awards for channel catfish, this was her biggest one ever. More important, at least to her, it was bigger than mine. “I told you I was going to kick your butt,” she said. “How do you feel now?” Actually, pretty good. West Bruce Masterman is based in High River, Alta., where his one and only Manitoba Master Angler award hangs on his office wall. IT ALL ADDS UP KNOW THE REAL COST OF DISTRACTED DRIVING. Distracted drivers have a 3x to 23x higher likelihood of crashing than attentive drivers. Distracted driving causes more fatalities than speeding, and drinking & driving combined. PEACEHILLSINSURANCE.COM West 31 by Victoria Chatham Photography by Bryce Meyer 32 West . ISSUE 29 . SUMMER 2013 Brooks Medieval Faire A festival hundreds of years in the making ust hangs in the air and hooves pound the dirt as two armoured knights charge toward each other. A lance splinters against its target and the crowd erupts in a loud cheer. You might imagine we’ve wandered onto a movie set, but no. This is Brooks, Alberta, a city of 14,000 on the TransCanada Highway 180 kilometres southeast of Calgary. For one weekend every August it is home to the Brooks Medieval Faire, a world of lords and ladies, knights and maidens, serving wenches and serfs. The Living Backwards Society (GNIVIL) from Edmonton has erected gaily striped and spacious pavilions on the Old Rodeo Grounds. Visitors are invited in to admire authentic hand D carved chairs, trunks and rope beds — inspiration for the expression “sleep tight”. There are archers, jugglers, bards and drama. The sound of clashing steel The Black Knight has abducted the lovely Lady Tracey. When gallant knights step forward to rescue her, a fight ensues, and that’s not easy when you’re wearing 100 pounds of armour under a high, bright sun. The crowd boos and hisses at the Black Knight or, maybe, at the knights and archers challenging him. Lady Tracey’s rescuers prevail. Her betrothal to her true love is to be celebrated at the Feast that evening. Meanwhile, Donald of St. Andrew’s, Herald of the Tournament, blows a trumpet that would not have been out of place during the Crusades. He’s about to introduce the grand melee. A priest, another actor, blesses the combatants and a very physical medieval brawl begins. The fighters are good thanks to hours of practice with a broadsword and the considerable courage it must take to withstand an onslaught, however choreographed it may be. The knights of Dragon’s Own from Calgary show off their skills and the Medicine Hat Medieval Society demonstrates the arts of fighting with staff and sword. Although everyone is having fun, this is a school of hard knocks — especially for the jousters. Lance a lot Jousting has been around since at least the first recorded tournament in 1066. Frenchman Godfrey de Preuilly is credited with writing the rules for the West 33 34 West . ISSUE 29 . SUMMER 2013 sport but he didn't live long enough to see them in action. Since de Preuilly’s rules didn’t specifically mention female jousters, they’re here at Brooks. One of them, Radar Goddard, an EMT and longtime fire fighter, first saw jousting at Littlecote House in Wiltshire, England and was fascinated. She came home and created the Society of Tilt and Lance Cavalry jousting team. Lady Radar’s opponent today is Lady Alison Mercer, in real life a historian at the Military Museums in Calgary. MC Dale Laberge tells the audience “The lances are 12 feet long, 10 feet of solid pine with a two foot balsa wood tip which breaks easily on contact.” She explains that a tilt consists of seven passes and that jousters earn one point for a touch, three for a broken tip, five for a broken lance and 10 if the opponent is unhorsed. Lady Radar won the tournament. Village life in the Middle Ages Once the jousters are done, spectators head to the food court or wander through the marketplace where artisans sell jewelry, tell fortunes, display medieval clothing, art work, pottery, leatherwork, chain mail, armour and swords. The afternoon continues with storytelling, a medieval costume contest, fire dancing, and juggling. Children get hands-on with animals in the petting zoo or let off steam on the bouncy castle. They can fling a tennis ball from a replica trebuchet, a giant stone-hurling machine you’ve seen in the movies. A hay-ride in a wagon drawn by Percheron horses is a great way for a family to see the Faire. “Come and join me,” invites GNIVIL’s Lady Janet Budgell as she makes her way to the lawn. There she explains the importance of dancing in medieval society. No one would suspect she is an electrician by trade. “I love re-creating history,” she says, before calling the steps to an ever growing circle of dancers who happily abandon their twentieth century gloss and join in the fun. West 35 Finally, the Feast The succulent aroma of roast pig draws ticket holders to a covered area where the King and Queen of the Faire, elected by the community, preside over the Feast. King James Thomas, of Welsh heritage and a proud promoter of Brooks, and Queen Jeanne Morishita have spent the day touring the Faire and visiting businesses in Brooks. “I enjoy 36 West . ISSUE 29 . SUMMER 2013 the opportunity to give orders to my subjects,” smiles Queen Jeanne. A magician entertains guests before the meal is served and Lady Tracey’s betrothal is mentioned. A skit brings applause and, later, the sounds of fiddle and bodhran (an Irish drum) draw people from the trestle tables to the stage. Third Reel, a Celtic band from Calgary has set up under the stars and plays the night away much to the delight of the crowd. Sunday morning visitors can learn about jousting, try on armour at Knight School, watch Brooks’s Junior Citizen of the Year being knighted or pay the Insulter to denounce anyone guilty of treasonous talk. Contestants in a Mythical Creatures costume event include an Autumn Fairy, an Elvin Queen and a young man from Calgary in a white unicorn mask. There’s a lot going on here. A family from Bragg Creek saw an advertising poster and thought the Faire would be fun. Mom, Dad and their two teenagers were not disappointed. Helen McInley and Beryl McNeil, both from Calgary, say the Faire brings history alive for them with its colour, fun and realism. At the final Court on Sunday afternoon, the King and Queen present awards to the winning fighters and jousters and invite everyone to visit again next year. 2013 marks the 10th anniversary of the Brooks Faire. It runs August 10 and 11. For more information, visit Brooks Faire’s Facebook page: www.facebook.com/brooksfaire West Victoria Chatham is a Calgary freelance writer who writes articles and short stories and is working on her second historical novel. I N S U R A N C E F A C T: Water-damage has now surpassed fire as Canada’s leading cause of personal property claims. LEARN WHY insuranceisevolving.com Ask your Western Financial Group insurance broker about getting protected with Intact Insurance today. West 37 by Bill Armstrong Ogema’s wonderful time machine Near Ogema, Saskatchewan in a restored 1922 railway car rolling through gentle hills under an impossibly blue prairie sky. S ome of the people on board are train buffs, some have never been on a train before, and everyone, it seems, is documenting the experience with a camera or smartphone. 38 West . ISSUE 29 . SUMMER 2013 We’re on Southern Prairie Railway’s heritage train. It was officially launched in time for Ogema’s one-hundredth anniversary in July, 2012, almost sixty years after the last scheduled passenger service along the line. Eleven-year-old Sophia Stang and her sisters, nine-year-old Madeline and sixyear-old Georgia, are first time riders. Their parents, Kim Byrns and Neil Stang of Regina “… think it’s important for kids to see Saskatchewan and experience what it’s like in small towns like Ogema,” according to Kim. It’s also a first-time experience for Ogema, population 320 and about 135 kms south of Regina, was initially Regina 1 Moose Jaw called Omega (the last letter of the Greek alphabet) to signify the end of the railroad line, at the time, but another town already had that name so the early settlers just switched the m and the g. 6 39 6 Ogema 13 Amulet became no more than names on maps, Ogema chose a different path, according to the town’s energetic mayor, Wayne Myren. Using the past to create a future “There are a lot of different reasons why Ogema has survived, and the Deep South Pioneer Museum was a part of it,” says Myren, whose parents used to own the property where it sits. “It began with a farmer who had an old plow that he had restored, and wanted preserved. A few old boys got together in 1976, and they incorporated the museum the following year,” he says. Deep South is now an impressive agricultural museum, with rows of vintage machinery and more than thirty buildings, many of them hauled from the town’s main street when new buildings replaced them. When the museum drew tourists, other projects followed. Two brick structures dating from 1915 — the town’s original fire hall and an imposing firewall erected to prevent a repeat of a disastrous fire that tore through the downtown — grace Main Street. One good idea leads to another … Alexandria Michael, 20. She and her mother, Veralin, live in Calgary and arranged their holiday time to ride the train together. “There are lots of ducks,” Alexandria observes. “You get to see much more that you can’t see in a car from the highway.” Veralin, 53, keeps in touch with happenings in Ogema, her hometown. She’s proud of where she came from, and what the people have accomplished. “While other towns have disappeared, Ogema has grown,” she observes. As she speaks the train rolls by the site of the once-bustling community of Amulet. A single streetlight now watches over a stone cairn and a historic marker. While many communities like The railway project started at a meeting of the local Agricultural Society in 1998, when board members kicked around ideas to add another attraction. The first step was to fill the gap at the head of Main Street where the CPR station had stood until it was torn down in 1971. Since railways often used standard designs for their stations, Myren was able to find an exact match for the Ogema station after searching provincial archives. It was sitting in Walter Klypak’s farmyard near Simpson, about two hundred and fifty kilometres north of Ogema. Local farmer and longtime community volunteer Roger Farr picks up the story. “Mr. Klypak was using the station for grain storage, but he was willing to let us have it if we’d build him grain bins to West 39 WE GO THE EXTRA MILE FOR YOU 1 for $20 AIR MIL reward ES mile in prem ium* Roger Farr, waiting at the station under a cool old sign. Contact a Western Financial Group broker today to learn more about RSA, or visit us at rsagroup.ca. store his crop. So, in 2002, twenty-three people helped build two new grain bins on the farm over a weekend.” The following summer, volunteers held a work bee to clean the station and to landscape the area around it. A new station platform was added, but at that point only the farmer-owned Red Coat Road and Rail short line railway passed by the station. Making a tourist train a reality took several more years and too many volunteer hours to count. … and another © 2012. RSA is a registered trade name of Royal & Sun Alliance Insurance Company of Canada. “RSA” and the RSA logo are trademarks used under license from RSA Insurance Group plc. ®™ Trademarks of AIR MILES International Trading B.V. Used under license by LoyaltyOne and Roins Financial Services Ltd. * Terms and Conditions can be found at www.rsagroup.ca. 075 west_ad_summer2012_01a.indd 1 West 40 RS . ISSUE 29 . SUMMER 2013 3/23/12 1:09 PM Local business owner Carol Peterson tossed out the idea of adding a tourist train as an attraction at a meeting in 1998. Her suggestion was for a bare bones service. “We didn’t have a passenger car; we didn’t have anything,” Peterson recalls, “not even a railway station at that point. Sometimes ignorance is bliss, and that was one of those times. I’ve heard the saying, ‘How do you eat an elephant? The answer is: ‘One bite at a time.’” Not much happened with the tourist train idea for a few years, until Cheryl and Devon Generous, who are crazy about trains and were looking for a community interested in operating a tourist train, heard about Ogema. Previous page: Train at Ogema station courtesy of Southern Prairie Railway; historical images courtesy of Deep South Pioneer Museum; This page: Photo by Bill Armstrong Insuring your home and car with RSA comes with its own reward – you can earn 1 AIR MILES® reward mile for every $20 in insurance premium* which can be redeemed for great travel and merchandise. Devon had worked as a mechanic for BC Rail before he and Cheryl settled on a farm near Assiniboia, the hub of three short-line railways. Devon works as a mechanic with the short lines. With the Generouses an obvious good fit, the Deep South Pioneer Museum set up a transportation committee to pursue the idea. They found a “44 tonner” switch engine in New Hampshire and a seventyseat passenger car in Pennsylvania. The local credit union put up a loan to buy and move them. Myren points out that every member of the Heritage Railway Association board signed the note. Seed Now Pay Later Make No Payments on Seed Purchases Until October 31, 2013.* Volunteers are crucial Over the summer of 2011 the town’s website allowed people to track the locomotive and passenger car on their journey. About a hundred volunteers donated more than six thousand hours to refurbishing the train before the triumphant launch of Southern Prairie Railway on November 4, 2011, with hundreds of onlookers cramming the railway station platform. The following winter the non-profit Ogema Heritage Railway Association began marketing the new tourist attraction. Operating every weekend from June through September, the train more than broke even in its first year. And the association had more items on its to-do list. A baggage-express car built in Montreal in 1952 will be refurbished as a place to sell refreshments and souvenirs. The association is looking for a dining car and another passenger car. “A heated and air conditioned dining car allows you to operate earlier and later in the season, and travel farther to enjoy the rugged scenery near the Big Muddy Valley,” Peterson explains. It’s taken more than a decade for the audacious idea of a tourist train to become a reality and the folks in Ogema appear to be gathering speed. West The Card For Those Who Grow. Apply Today. *Some conditions apply. Learn more at www.southernprairierailway.com Bill Armstrong is a Regina-based writer and photographer with a special interest in heritage and history projects. BankWest.ca West 41 ...because we live here. “It’s funny how a newborn can change your perspective on everything, ...that’s why we have life insurance through Western Financial Group.” tern Financial Group-Wes To get a quick quote visit or call: westernfinancialgroup.ca • 1-800-THE WEST LIFE INSURANCE -B est Service Guarantee Auto | Home | helping our communities with all their insurance needs Business | Farm | Life | Travel | Pet | Financial Services WestGUARD Employee Benefits Program WestGUARD is our unique employee benefits program designed to meet the needs of both your employees and your budget. WestGUARD offers you: Immediate premium savings • Rate stability generated through pooled structure • Program flexibility with many coverage options to choose from • Online administration • Pay direct drug and dental card • 42 West . ISSUE 29 . SUMMER 2013 For more information visit: www.westguard.ca or call toll free: 1-800-665-8990 health Matters by ANGELA MORRISON, RN Lyme Disease: A New pest in the west L yme disease is moving into western Canada. It had to come, sooner or later. It’s already the most common tick-borne illness in North America and Europe. We didn’t even know what it was until 1981 when Willy Burgdorfer, a research scientist in Montana, identified a specific bacteria found in deer ticks. But the problems in the US started in the early ’70s when doctors in Old Lyme, Connecticut and neighboring towns began noticing an unusually high number of cases of rheumatoid arthritis among children. Puzzled, they looked for a cause. Because cases occurred mostly in the summer and mostly among children who’d spent time in the woods, they decided to look at deer ticks. Burgdorfer, who’d been investigating Rocky Mountain Spotted Fever, also caused by ticks, took it from there. Since there’s not a lot authorities can do about ticks, Lyme disease has spread inexorably across the US and eastern Canada as well as parts of western Canada. It’s mostly avoidable You're more likely to get bitten if you live in grassy and heavily wooded areas where ticks carrying the disease thrive. In most of Canada, these are usually the deer tick or blacklegged tick. In British Columbia, it’s the western blacklegged tick. It might help to know that: Lyme disease cannot be spread from human to human Your family pet can bring infected ticks into your home but you cannot get Lyme disease from your pet People spending more time in the great outdoors, like hikers, campers and hunters may be at a greater risk. Lyme disease cannot be contracted from eating the meat of an animal infected with the disease Death from Lyme disease is rare. And, caught early, it’s easy to treat But there are serious health consequences if Lyme disease is left untreated. Symptoms usually occur in three stages. Stage one is characterized by a circular rash called erythema migrans (EM) or “bull’s eye” rash. EM occurs in 70 to 80 percent of infected people. Other symptoms include chills, fever, headache, fatigue, muscle and joint pain and swollen lymph nodes. The bull’s eye rash is often all physicians need to diagnose and treat Lyme disease. If left untreated, the disease may progress to the second stage where symptoms can last for several months and include extreme fatigue and generalized weakness, heart palpitations, multiple skin rashes, arthritis, and central and peripheral nervous system disorders. Progression to the third stage of the disease can often have symptoms that last for years, including debilitating arthritis and neurological problems. Diagnosis is usually made through physician examination of the bitten area, history of symptoms and history of patient encounters with blacklegged ticks. Blood testing for Lyme disease is often used for diagnosis. Blood tests also become more reliable as the infection progresses. Lyme disease is treated with antibiotics. Most important, contact your medical provider immediately if you develop any symptom. West Illustration by David Willicome Precautions advised by the Public Health Agency of Canada include: 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. Wear long pants tucked into boots or socks and long sleeves when in tick infested areas. Avoid sandals and wear closed toed shoes. Light coloured clothing allows you to easily spot ticks. Apply DEET-containing insect repellants as these repel ticks also. Check yourself, small children and pets after being outdoors in tick infested areas. Carefully remove any attached ticks by grabbing the head and mouth areas as close to the skin as possible with a pair of tweezers, trying not to twist or squash the tick as you may leave parts of the tick in your skin. 7. After removing the tick, wash the bite with soap and water or a disinfectant. West 43 Simple & Delicious Story and photos by Cinda Chavich Smokin’ S ummer weekends are made for slowing down and kicking back in the sunshine with a cool one. But in our busy world, it can be hard to justify that kind of downtime unless, of course, you’re cooking a pulled pork dinner or a feast of ribs in the backyard smoker. Smoking, also known as slow barbecue, is a method of cooking large cuts of meat, from pork butt and brisket to whole chicken, low and slow over a charcoal fire. Whether you use a bullet shaped smoker, a ceramic kamado grill or a boxy Little Joe, a smoker must be slowly stoked with hot coals and wet wood chips for many 44 West . ISSUE 29 . SUMMER 2013 hours. It’s the perfect excuse for a lazy day in the back yard. THE RAW MATERIALS: The classic meats for slow smoking are fatty cuts like pork shoulder, ribs or beef brisket, but you can also smoke anything from chicken pieces and whole trout to onions and tomatoes for smoky salsa. Meats are seasoned with spice rubs then cooked indirectly over charcoal fires, keeping the heat very low. The basic rub contains sugar, salt, paprika, granulated garlic, onion powder, cumin and pepper, but you can customize your rub with any herbs and spices you like. Many barbecue cooks start by coating meats with ballpark mustard so the spice rub adheres well and forms a nice crust to seal in juices while cooking. Cook over chunks of natural charcoal and add wet apple, cherry or mesquite wood chips to create smoke. The largest cuts may require 12 hours of smoking, so expect to spend six to eight hours to get a pork roast that’s tender enough to pull into shreds for sandwiches. THE PROCESS: Once you learn the basic technique, it can be applied to a variety of barbecue meats. Rub the meat liberally with ballpark mustard (don’t use Dijon, it doesn’t con- The perfect excuse for a lazy day in the back yard. tain enough sugar), then sprinkle heavily on all sides with your spice rub. Let the rub stand for 10 minutes to get tacky before you place the meat on the grill. Build a charcoal fire using natural charcoal (briquettes contain chemicals) and cook your meat indirectly — i.e. build the fire under half of the grill and set the meat on the cool side. You can place a drip pan under the meat, and fill it with beer or fruit juice to add flavor. Some barbecue cooks like to spritz or mop the meat occasionally with beer, wine or apple juice to keep the meat moist. Add more pre-lit coals as they burn down to keep the heat even and low, ideally around 200-220˚F. Use wet wood chips, soaked overnight, for an occasional burst of smoke. Resist the temptation to open the lid. You will just lose the heat and add to your cooking time. THE EQUIPMENT: There are all kinds of smokers on the market. You can even smoke your pork butt indirectly on your gas BBQ, using a special metal box to hold the wet wood chips over the flame to create some smoke. Many competition barbecue teams use the basic Weber kettle barbecue for THE EMBELLISHMENTS: Barbecued meats are so delicious they need few embellishments. But many barbecue cooks create their own sauces to douse the meat once it’s off the smoker. In the Carolinas, there’s an ongoing debate about the perfect sauce for pork. In eastern North Carolina they use a spicy vinegar-based mustard sauce, and on the other side of the state they swear by a tomato-based barbecue sauce. In Texas, the beef brisket usually comes with a smoky dark tomato-based sauce, sometimes enhanced with coffee or cocoa. Ribs are often brushed with barbecue sauce after they come off the smoker, but if you’ve removed the fell (skin) from the back of the rack before smoking, all the flavour will have infused into the meat, making sauce unnecessary. When it comes to pulled pork sandwiches, it’s nice to make a simple cabbage and carrot slaw to layer on top of the pork sandwich. And, of course, nothing goes better with barbecue than cold beer! West Cinda Chavich is a Victoria food and travel writer whose books include High Plains: The Joy of Alberta Cuisine. G DEL s MO S t Wes OU TM 12 G 20 RN WESTE ZINE MAGA DA'S CANA RIN s SP SGr:ouse, to Albe,rta, PLU g on al Road Legally use ...beca we ern l West ncia Fina up Gro live e. her We st INSI DE: HO LSTE INS WEST ERN CANA DA'S MAGA ZINE s TO WH ISK Ys EART HQ UA K ES & TO RN AD OES s BC ’S ...b SpyinOrigin mp – fé The ing He Nun Ca GrowHappy The ARS KaBil C a tonM,ussell: s e O v NE ns Ste EdowO AB Y West d K 0 n a R 12of ups ONCINRIDD F E eca use we T PR live AW NS We Fin stern Gro ancial up her e. THOMPsOn FUR TABLe s ALL-WHiTe ORCA s HOW TO COOK sQUAsH Western Canada's Magazine s Fall/Winter 2012/2013 Western Financial Group ...because we live here. sa y inside: SPO SUMM ER 20 12 e.c a HIS s Y RS ATO ELEV ga zin NARC E: A SID IN NTA RAIN Ha v tw e y est ou ma r IN YURT visi smoking meats indirectly over charcoal. A bullet smoker is a simple affair, too. It’s a bullet shaped dome with two or three grills, a fire box and water pan below. The Big Green Egg is the choice of top chefs, a heavy and very expensive ceramic egg-shaped smoker modeled after the classic Japanese kamado. There are now knock-offs on the market for half the price — units like the Vision Grills kamado or the all-metal Big Green Keg. All have the advantage of holding the heat for very long periods using little fuel, and can be used for high temperature charcoal grilling, much like a wood-burning oven. Or you can spring for a full competition rig, the kind of barbecue on wheels, with offset firebox, that serious barbecue cooks haul off to shows and big barbecue competitions (a great way to meet like-minded, slow cooking aficionados and pit masters who can teach you more). , IK ES R PLU S: Wal Talk king am Ghosing to ong tly Sa Dr. Fo rattles nato th, W nake rium hale s, s, 2 people, 12 dogs, 22 days at -40° r say .ca Have you magazine visit west Mushing to nowhere PLUs: Small town shopping, BC’s jade, Legendary Twelve Foot Davis, and More y r sa ca you azine. ve ag Hasit westm vi SUBSCRIBE NOW! Western Financial Group’s West magazine is a celebration of the western Canadian lifestyle. It’s a reflection of the spirit and pride that radiates from the people who live in the four western provinces. Simply put, West is written by western Canadians for western Canadians about western Canadians. Bring West magazine into your home! Call 1-877-963-9333 ext 262 E-mail subscriptions@ redpointmedia.ca Or mail payment to: RedPoint Media Group Inc. 100, 1900 - 11 St. S.E. Calgary, AB T2G 3G2 West 45 The Reign of Terroir Story and photo by Cinda Chavich West Coast Crab I n the US it’s blue crab but on Canada’s west coast it’s Dungies. Pacific (Dungeness) Crab, named for a port in Washington state, scrabble along the bottom in shallow waters all along Canada’s west coast, from Vancouver Island north to Prince Rupert and beyond. On any given weekend, you’ll find amateurs tossing their crab traps off the long wooden pier in Sidney or suspending them from brightly coloured buoys in watery inlets. Crab fishing is both a hobby and a commercial endeavor — and a uniquely BC fishing experience. There are more than 100 different species of crab in BC’s coastal waters but 46 West . ISSUE 29 . SUMMER 2013 only two, the Dungeness and Red Rock, are fished with the Dungy being the larger of the two. How to catch them At gofishbc.com you’ll get all the information you need for a day of crab fishing. There are specific seasons for crabbing, but in and around Victoria you can fish for crab year round. All you’ll need is a trap (or ring) and a Tidal Waters sport fishing licence. Bait the trap with fish heads or other offal, throw it into an area with eel grass beds nearby, and wait. In 30 minutes to two hours, you should have a few edible specimens. Don’t set your traps in navigation channels and make sure they’re clearly marked with colourful buoys. Only male crabs are taken, and only those with a carapace, back shell, at least 165 mm wide at the widest point. Females are thrown back to reproduce. Tim Webster of High Gear Seafood brings his catch to Victoria wholesalers like F.A.S. (Finest At Sea). They also have a retail store down near Fisherman’s Wharf where you can buy crab, salmon, clams and other local seafood. How to buy them Webster says the best crab is the largest, as you’re getting the best meat to shell ratio and, unlike lobster, there’s no problem with larger specimens. The average Dungeness Crab is about 1 to 1.5 pounds, with three or four pair of walking legs and a couple of large pinchers or claws. The price for crab fluctuates throughout the year with the lowest prices in mid-summer. When you go to the fish market, ask for #2 crab and pick one missing a smaller leg — just a tad less crab at half the price per pound. How to cook them You can cook a whole live crab by plunging it directly into a pot of boiling, salted water, then cooking, covered, for 10-12 minutes. But it’s easier to have your crab killed, and cleaned, at the fish market or on the dock. Chop the body in half, remove the shell and viscera, then rinse the rest. You’ll be left with two halves or “clusters”, each with lots of body meat, the legs and claws attached. These halves cook quickly — in just about seven minutes in boiling salted water. Then you can eat your crab hot, straight out of the pot, or plunge it into ice water to cool completely before shucking out the meat to use in crab salads or crab cakes. It’s a fiddly business, and takes time, which is why crabmeat is so expensive. But a crab’s easy to shuck. Just break the body sections apart to release the meat and pick the rest out of the claws and legs. A great way to eat fresh crab is simply dipped in garlic or lemon butter, with a nice baguette and bottle of white wine on the side. Or you can brush the raw clusters with garlic butter and cook them on the grill. For a big feed of crab, cook them like they do in Louisiana, outdoors over portable gas flames. Layer the crab halves in big pots with fresh shucked corn, new potatoes and onions or even spicy sausage. Add some salted water and boil the whole thing up until everything is steamy and cooked through. Then you can drain the pot and pour the whole mess out onto a picnic table that’s been covered in newsprint. It’s messy and time consuming to eat but it’s a summer feast fit for you and a dozen of your closest friends. West Protect yourself At SGI CANADA, we know you do your best to prepare for the unexpected. That’s why our Western Financial Group brokers offer a wide range of products and services that protect you from life’s mud puddles. We’ve got you covered. West 47 backgrounder nesota’s RenFair. Ontario hosts the most medieval fairs in Canada and in Western Canada major fairs are held in British Columbia, Alberta, Saskatchewan and Manitoba. BC’s annual Renaissance Fair in Langley happens over a weekend in July and the Medieval Faire in Brooks, Alberta in August. Saskatchewan’s Regina Highland Games Survival of a small town Homesteaders began settling the area around Ogema as early as 1908, in anticipation of the railway line that soon followed. With the arrival of the railway the village flourished and incorporated as a town in 1912. The community suffered a setback in January, 1915 when fire destroyed several Main Street businesses. Another fire that same year destroyed a livery stable, prompting the town council to build a fire hall on one side of Main Street, and a substantial brick firewall across the street. Both of these structures have been restored, along with a 1923 British American Oil Company service station a little farther along Main Street. The battle of Castille, 1453, by Philippe Lariviere Eventually, Europe recovered and segued nicely into the Renaissance. We don’t celebrate the Dark Ages or the plague much, but we must like something about the Middle Ages and the Renaissance because Medieval and Renaissance fairs abound across Canada and the United States. The US’s largest is Min- have a medieval component with groups such as the Society for Creative Anachronism re-enacting old battles. In Cooks Creek, Manitoba, the every-two-years Medieval Fair runs in July at the church of the Immaculate Conception. Performers at the fairs usually include dancers, musicians, jugglers and acrobats. Attractions may include falconry, jousting and archery displays with, perhaps, a ducking stool to drench a wench or soak a serf. Misbehavers could find themselves locked in the stocks. Medieval costumes aren’t necessary but male visitors from all walks of life dress up as characters like Robin Hood, William Wallace or maybe an early medieval Magyar. Ladies’ costumes range from long sleeved dresses under open sided simple tunics to full, flared and elaborately decorated gowns and headdresses. Fare at the fairs can range from wild boar to roast pig and turkey, washed down with, naturally, a tankard of good ale. W First came the Dark Ages … A Courtesy of Deep South Pioneer Museum fter Rome fell in the 400s, Europe slumped through the Dark Ages for 600 years while the rest of what we call the civilized world did pretty well. Medieval Europe got off to a pretty good start until the 1300s when the Bubonic Plague killed off a third of the population. Back to square one. 48 West . ISSUE 29 . SUMMER 2013 backgrounder Go. Buy. Cook. Eat. Yum. There are lots of terrific farmers’ markets across the West and most of them are listed online. St. Albert Farmers’ Market, St. Anne and St. Thomas Streets in St. Albert, Saturdays 10 am to 3 pm, June 15-October 6. British Columbia: Victoria Downtown Farmers Market, Market Square. Year-round: Wednesdays 12 pm to 5 pm (April 4– end October), Saturdays 11 am to 3 pm (1st and 3rd Saturday, November to March). Calgary Farmers' Market, 510 77 Ave. S.E., Calgary, Thursday through Sunday 9 am to 5 pm, year-round. Steveston Winter Farmers and Artisans Market, Inside the Gulf of Georgia Cannery National Historic Site. 12138 Fourth Ave. at Chatham St., corner of 3 Ave. & Moncton St. in Steveston Village, every second Sunday 11 am to 4 pm, October to April. Saskatchewan: Saskatoon Farmers Market at River Landing, 414 Ave. B South, Saskatoon, Saturdays 8 am to 2 pm, Wednesdays and Sundays 10 am to 3 pm, year-round. Battlefords & District Farmers' Market Co-op at Battleford Furniture Thursday morning, Carousel Bingo parking lot; Saturday morning May through September; Co-op Mall Saturday morning October through May. Kelowna Farmers and Crafters Market, Dilworth and Springfield Rd., Wednesdays and Saturdays, 8 am to 1 pm, April to October (indoor winter market from first Saturday in November to last Saturday in March, 9 am to 1 pm, at Parkinson Recreation Centre, Harvey Avenue). Hudson Bay & District Farmers' Market Co-op, Legion Hall in Hudson Bay, most summer Thursdays 11 am to 3 pm (call Diane at 306-865-4136). Alberta: Pincher Creek Pioneer Farmers' Market, Kootenai Brown Village (1037 Bev McLachlyn Dr.), Fridays 11 am to 2 pm, June 8-October 12. Manitoba: Arnes Farmers’ Market, 16 km (10 miles) north of Gimli on Hwy 222, Saturdays & Sundays until 2 pm, May 19 to October 7. Pineridge Hollow Farmers’ Market, off Garven Road on Heatherdale Road N, adjacent to Bird’s Hill Park, Saturdays 9 am to 1 pm, June 30September 15. Steinbach Farmers’ Market, Clearspring Mall east parking lot, Thursdays 3 to 6:30 pm, June 21October 4. W After struggling through the 1930s like everywhere else, Ogema suffered another setback when the Canadian Pacific Railway ceased grain hauling from local elevators. Rather than see the rail line torn up, six local farmers bought the branch line from the CPR and formed Red Coat Road and Rail, Saskatchewan’s first short-line rail- way. Local investors also provided funding and sought out donations for the Southern Prairie Railway tourist train, which operates on the Red Coat right-of-way. After years of population decline, Ogema is benefiting from Saskatchewan’s recent boom, stimulated by the establishment nearby of an intensive hog production facility, improving agricultural prospects and expatriates returning to a slower, simpler lifestyle. Ogema mayor Wayne Myren, who has his hands in every heritage and economic development project in town, would like to see the house originally used by the North West Mounted Police restored, along with the wooden water tower that stood beside the railway station. Ogema received a gold medal for heritage management from the International Livable Communities organization in 2008 and continues to tap its rich vein of local history with a long to-do list for the future. More connections at ogema.ca and southernprairierailway.com W West 49 West’s editor rants… Is English going backwards? T he English language changes according to the way people use it and that’s a good thing, otherwise we’d still be speaking like Chaucer in the 1390s: “Whan that Aprille with his shoores soote …” New words pop up all the time and other words just about disappear. For example, it’s probably been a while since you’ve heard “Gadzooks” and longer since “Forsooth”. The only place you’ll hear milady or varlet these days is a Medieval Faire. New words appear as we 50 West . ISSUE 29 . SUMMER 2013 need them, as if by magic: byte, Internet, hip-hop, wellness. We’re always getting new versions of old words; cred (credibility) and props (proper respect or treatment) are part of the lexicon, at least for now. New meanings for words like, oh, hustle (from hurry to scam — how did that happen?) enter the language almost daily and grand old words surprise us in the strangest contexts and then quickly morph into something else. “Don’t disrespect me” had barely entered the linguistic fray Our language may be devolving Normally, changes to English rise or fall on their own merits. “Cool”, from the ‘50s is still, well, cool here in 2013; “groovy”, a child of the ‘60s, was lame by the ‘70s. English has a way of keeping the cool and dropping the dopey. That may be changing. I’ve been worried about the adverb for some time (for instance, most people who say “more importantly” really mean “more important”) and now it looks like our pronouns have been hijacked. And it’s such a boring topic that nobody pays attention. The mercifully short (bad) version: “Nobody cares about their pronouns anymore.” Nobody is singular and their is plural. It’s not just bad grammar; it’s confusing because it’s not at all clear whose pronouns we’re talking about. This kind of thing has been going on quietly for centuries but it’s been accelerating over the last few years. There is a prima facie case for it but it’s almost always unnecessary. If there’s a problem using he, him, his as the indefinite 3rd person singular pronouns, we can always write around it. It’s as easy as, for example, changing the above sentence to “People don’t care about their pronouns anymore.” That would have the salubrious double whammy effect of a) being correct grammatically and b) being an untrue statement, because its use suggests that people do care about their pronouns. We can only hope. Mike McCormick Illustration by Mike Kerr when it morphed into “Don’t diss me.” We shorten things. That may be what we’re best at: diss, ‘net, and chopping rock and roll down to just rock and country and western to just country. Somehow we’ve managed all these changes for centuries without an official language watchdog like the French have. It’s been great, a nearly perfect flow of flawless linguistic evolution. Until now. Freedom. Comfort. Peace of mind. Travel Home Automotive Commercial Collections Books Coins Stamps Peace of mind, you’ve earned it Experiencing a loss can be difficult, and although insurance may relieve you of a financial burden, it cannot totally eliminate the stress and disruption that results from a loss to your personal belongings. Let Falkins Insurance Group give you peace of mind by ensuring you have the perfect insurance policy tailored to cover the items you enjoy every day—such as jewelry, fine arts, coin and stamp collections and even golf clubs. We believe you have the right to enjoy your lifestyle, not spend time worrying about it. Falkins is your most trusted insurance group for over 100 years. 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