black_out every_one high_twist re_patching

Transcription

black_out every_one high_twist re_patching
ArsSutoria
TRENDS GUIDE
shoes & bags aw 2016/17
re_patching
every_one
black _out
high_twist
re-patching
everyone
blackout
high-twist
Black_out
RAPPER DELUXE
PROVOCATIVE
3D STEAMPUNK
GOTHIC SEXY
BOLD OUTWEAR
Black_Out
PANTONE® Black 6 C
PANTONE® 19-4006 TPX
PANTONE® 19-4203 TPX
The rapper style climbs onto the podium
of international catwalks, redefining the roles
of metropolitan power. Provocation and
Innovation redesign the new metropolis,
combining the futuristic Steampunk style
with an increasingly more futuristic city skyline.
Aggressive Bionic Warriors, Innovators,
Visionaries, Titans of Music and Egocentrics
interpret the Power of Power.
PANTONE® 12-4306 TPX
Colours
Dark Metropolitan shades, Luxury matt
blacks, Winter whites, Metallic greys.
PANTONE® 18-3910 TPX
PANTONE® 19-3921 TPX
PANTONE® 19-5411 TPX
PANTONE® 19-0509 TPX
PANTONE® 19-0840 TPX
PANTONE® and PANTONE Textile COLOUR SystemTM are trademarks of PANTONE,
Inc. © Pantone LLC 1984, 2013
The PANTONE Reference Numbers shown herein represent the PANTONE
COLOURS most close to the COLOURS displayed. COLOUR reproduction may not
match PANTONE®-identified textile solid COLOUR standard.
Consult the current PANTONE Textile COLOUR System Publications for accurate
COLOUR standards
CONCEPT
Materials
High-tech materials with Haute Craft processes. The
materials are ennobled with futuristic technologies. High
frequency, 3D finishes, heat applications, welding, thermosfilm, push up. Matte finishes together with precious materials
like reptiles. A mixture of couture sport and glam Gothic with
satin finishes, rubberized and shined effects; glitter and “semigloss” varnish.
Shapes
Shoe bottoms from the world of metropolitan street
outerwear evolve in a vertical direction. With contrasting points
and angles. Oversized volumes with block-shaped lines. The
details of the upper become increasingly more sophisticated thanks
to injection and thermo-fusion technologies. The bags are
rigid, box-shaped, coupled with innovative materials.
GAMAR ITALIA
SCHMID
OPTI - COATS
SHAPES RECAP
MAN
UNISEX
WOMAN
CONSUMER
PROFILE
FOCUS ON KANYE WEST
West made the time 100, under
the “titans” section no less and
plus the cover. With his wife kim
kardashian is considered the most
powerful man in pop music. He
is famous for the best fashion
collaborations. Now is also the
new art director of adidas originals
brand
A.P.C. Fall collection
Kanye West at Adidas originals show in NY
YEEZY BOOT BY ADIDAS
NIKE AIR YEEZY JORDAN
CRUEL SUMMER SHOES WITH GIUSEPPE ZANOTTI
LOUIS VUITTON DON
DESIGNERS & OPINION LEADERS
Riccardo Tisci + Nike
Riccardo Tisci. Givenchy art
director he is one of the designers
who have started to take over
these big luxury fashion houses
grew up with street style and
invest in it. The sneaker made in
collaboration with nike was top hit
seller in 2014.
Also tisci was nominated best
designer for menswear 2015
INSPIRATIONAL ICONIC BRANDS
INSPIRATIONAL ICONIC BRANDS
re-patching
everyone
blackout
high-twist
Every_one
HE SHE ME
AGENDER IDENTITY
UNIFORMITY
BASIC ANDROGYNY
INTERNATIONAL FUNCTIONAL
Every_one
PANTONE® 19-4125 TPX
PANTONE® 19-4118 TPX
PANTONE® 18-0503 TPX
®
PANTONE 12-4306 TPX
Celebration of a fashion without
definition. The boundaries of gender
fluctuate without any definite limits. Unisex,
Basic and Uniformity mix the ingredients of
the new androgyny by adding a feminine
edge to a masculine style, thus making
femininity neutral. A new street basic, more
delicate for contemporary generations.
PANTONE® 19-0509 TPX
Colours
Dry greys, smoked browns, urban yellows.
PANTONE® 19-0230 TPX
PANTONE® 19-0516 TPX
PANTONE® 19-3903 TPX
PANTONE® 19-1431 TPX
PANTONE® 17-1410 TPX
PANTONE® 16-0836 TPX
PANTONE® 15-0646 TPX
PANTONE® and PANTONE Textile COLOUR SystemTM are trademarks of PANTONE,
Inc. © Pantone LLC 1984, 2013
The PANTONE Reference Numbers shown herein represent the PANTONE
COLOURS most close to the COLOURS displayed. COLOUR reproduction may not
match PANTONE®-identified textile solid COLOUR standard.
Consult the current PANTONE Textile COLOUR System Publications for accurate
COLOUR standards
CONCEPT
Materials
Basic materials and unisex finishes. Matte, Brushed,
Coated, Refinished, Waterproof, Micro-textured,
Functional, Practical. Oxidized effects and industrial
finishes. Clear wax and washed effects on both leather and
fabrics. Diverse finishes and colours, spots on denim. Oxidation,
aluminium and gun-metal finishes on accessories.
Industrial materials: recycled and sustainable synthetics with
basic surfaces. Functional stretch and high-performance
materials.
Shapes
The new Neutral emphasises slender volumes, fished
from the sports utility with boxed bottoms, rounded and
elongated points. Models that become part of the agender sector:
slip-on with rubber bottom, lace-up amphibian, hightop, low-top city runners. Bowling bags and backpacks
with semi-soft, padded volumes to be carried by hand and over
the shoulder.
MORO MINUTERIE
DIMAR CONCERIA
DIMAR CONCERIA
FUTURISTIC
UNISEX
SHAPES RECAP
A-GENDER
A-GENDER
CONSUMER
PROFILE
SELFRIDGES A-GENDER
From march 2015 Selfridges
London has created a special
concept store for a-gender
consumers. A film a original
music track ‘he, she, me’by
Devonté Hynes and Neneh
Cherry, commissioned by
Selfridges and a special
concept space by designer
Faye Toogood. Brands to shop
are various from androgynous
Grenson, Ann Deumelemeester
and Van Noten to sport inspired
one like Nazhir Mazarh, Astrid
Andersen and Golden Goose
deluxe brand.
Furthermore a selection of best
a-gender street style by
A-gender campaign
the sartorialist.Com
Concept store
The sarotrialist exhibition
CONSUMER GOODS & MARKETS
Coachella festival and fashion:
Diadoraforcoachella special edition
New era backpack
H&m special coachella collection
The 2014 festival (grossing more than $78m)
saw top fashion, magazine and beauty
brands tussle to establish a connection with
coachella, whose crowds are known for their
free-spirited nature and disposable incomes.
The 2015 eraned more than 89 $ m
The Adidas originals superstar
all-new “city” pack. Available
in grey, black, red, blue, violet
and yellow colorways, the tonal
sneakers sport an all-suede
upper with each pair branded
with a specific city – New
York, Paris, London, Berlin,
Shanghai and Tokyo – which
is highlighted via their respective
landmarks printed in gold.
INSPIRATIONAL ICONIC BRANDS
INSPIRATIONAL ICONIC BRANDS
M O BI
re-patching
everyone
blackout
high-twist
High_twist
ELABORATE EXCESS
70’S ELITE
FASHION JET SET
HIGH END OUTDOOR
WINTER CLUB
High_Twist
PANTONE® 19-1101 TPX
PANTONE® 19-1015 TPX
PANTONE® 19-1532 TPX
Absolutely first class. The winter of the
Elite puts the spotlight on the most
prestigious Clubs and Ski Resorts of
the winter scene. With a glance towards
posh modernism of the 70s projected in
the elaborate excesses of outdoor luxury: Saint
Moritz, Gstaad, Courchevel, Whistler, Aspen,
Jackson Hole.
Colours
PANTONE® 19-1250 TPX
Club reds, Premium Royal yellow, Noble
aubergine.
PANTONE® 14-0755 TPX
PANTONE® 19-5420 TPX
PANTONE® 18-1663 TPX
PANTONE® 19-3720 TPX
PANTONE® 19-2024 TPX
PANTONE® and PANTONE Textile COLOUR SystemTM are trademarks of PANTONE,
Inc. © Pantone LLC 1984, 2013
The PANTONE Reference Numbers shown herein represent the PANTONE
COLOURS most close to the COLOURS displayed. COLOUR reproduction may not
match PANTONE®-identified textile solid COLOUR standard.
Consult the current PANTONE Textile COLOUR System Publications for accurate
COLOUR standards
CONCEPT
Materials
Great British men’s Classics, herringbone, nabuk, saffiano,
calfskin, goatskin, pony skin with a rich and bold mood. Exclusive
leather and fur renewed with Haute Couture processes.
The treatments on the leather experiment with new cut-out
effects and colours. Woolen and precious materials like tweed,
twill and embossed wool. Leather is given the greatest effects
like brush off, pull up hand-treated with shading and
oiling on nubuk. Fur is a precious “must” for features and
laser-cut details.
Shapes
The great classics of outdoor winter dressy are
reinterpreted in a deluxe key. Slender volumes for countrychic models. Short boots, biker boots, Chelsea boots,
moccasins, ankle boots, high booties. The bags acquire
new large and rigid volumes, totes, medium trapezoidshaped, small saddle bags, box clutches, bowling bags
and travel holdall bags.
ROBOTTI PELLICCERIE
CLIC
ROBOTTI PELLICCERIE
SHAPES RECAP
MAN
UNISEX
WOMAN
CONSUMER
PROFILE
FOCUS ON LUXURY MARKET
The new luxury categories:
Absolute: established brands as luxury statement and
uniqueness in details. Niche high top market
Aspirational: brands of luxury with premium recognition
and aspirational to luxury. Distinctive for style and mass
recognition
Accessible: brands and prodcuts with name of luxury
statement or element of status with affordable price easy
to buy as entry point for mass consumers.
Vegetable tanned process. Most ancient
leather process with use of tannines
Pull-up waxed leather to enrich the leather round touch
Chemical brush –off
FOCUS ON BEST HAND MADE TREATMENT
Full grain natural tumbler
Hand brush-off
INSPIRATIONAL ICONIC BRANDS
INSPIRATIONAL ICONIC BRANDS
re-patching
everyone
blackout
high-twist
Re_patching
COLLECTING STYLES
FOLKYST FLOW
GLAMAZING
EXTRAVAGANT RE USE
SEXY MATCH
PANTONE® 19-1420 TPX
PANTONE® 17-1147 TPX
Re_Patching
A creative adventure that rewrites the
manifesto of a contemporary style. An
PANTONE® 17-1134 TPX
assembly of patterns and textures are
given a touch of sexiness to renew styles
and combinations. From casual to dressy,
the new “assemblages” are the result of
artistic manipulations that have fun playing
with glamour, adding a rebellious touch.
PANTONE® 17-1224 TPX
Colours
Melting colorful, Oxidated brown, Sparkle fluo.
PANTONE® 19-1338 TPX
PANTONE® 17-0235 TPX
PANTONE® 14-0755 TPX
PANTONE® 19-3528 TPX
PANTONE® 18-2043 TPX
PANTONE® 19-4035TPX
PANTONE® and PANTONE Textile COLOUR SystemTM are trademarks of PANTONE,
Inc. © Pantone LLC 1984, 2013
The PANTONE Reference Numbers shown herein represent the PANTONE
COLOURS most close to the COLOURS displayed. COLOUR reproduction may not
match PANTONE®-identified textile solid COLOUR standard.
Consult the current PANTONE Textile COLOUR System Publications for accurate
COLOUR standards
CONCEPT
Materials
Sensual and sexy fabrics and leather. Wealth
and extravagance of modern folk contrasts. Glitter,
frills, sequins, embroidery, prints, damasks. Fur,
feathers, velvet, lace. New wool jacquards mixed
with ethnic prints and fabric patterns, great focus
on fur combined in shades of rainbow colours.
Glossy and fine pearly finishes for Her, for Him
vintage updated by colour splashes on leather
and white with distressed effects. Matt and slightly
oxidized gold finishes of Deco taste for details.
Shapes
Retro lines and volumes reinterpreted with eclectic
styles. For her, large bottoms with reworking of
the “spool” heel. Roundness, edges, ornaments that
enrich the forms. For him, slender, elongated lines.
Bags with irregular volumes for special models.
TESSITURA ARMAND SACCAL
TECNOCHIMICA
SHAPES RECAP
UNISEX
MAN
WOMAN
CONSUMER
PROFILE
FOCUS ON BAGS DESIGNERS
Paula Cademartori is the new top accessories designer.
Her heritage from Brazil with Italian taste are perfectly match
Giancarlo Petriglia is Italian artisanal bag designer that combines and
match different materials and patterns wi deco’ accessories
DESIGNERS & OPINION
Alessandro
De Michele
gave to Gucci
a new wave
and look with
a languid
and feminine
design where
elements are
repatched
from different
inspirations
Stella Mc Cartney is the prototype pf contemporary
patching style with a female touch
INSPIRATIONAL ICONIC BRANDS
INSPIRATIONAL ICONIC BRANDS
!"#"$ "#"$
COLORS
BLACK_OUT
COLOR RECAP
NEUTRALS
PANTONE® 19-4006 TPX
PANTONE® 19-4203 TPX
PANTONE® Black 6 C
PANTONE® 19-3921 TPX
PANTONE® 12-4306 TPX
DOMINANTS
PANTONE® 18-3910 TPX
ACCENTS
PANTONE® 19-5411 TPX
PANTONE® 18-0840 TPX
COLOR COMBINATION
PANTONE® 19-0509 TPX
EVERY_ONE
COLOR RECAP
NEUTRALS
PANTONE® 19-4118 TPX
PANTONE® 12-4306 TPX
PANTONE® 18-0503 TPX
PANTONE® 19-0509 TPX
PANTONE® 19-1431 TPX
PANTONE® 17-1410 TPX
PANTONE® 19-0516 TPX
PANTONE® 19-0230 TPX
PANTONE® 15-0646 TPX
DOMINANTS
PANTONE® 19-4125 TPX
ACCENTS
PANTONE® 19-3903 TPX
COLOR COMBINATION
PANTONE® 16-0836 TPX
HIGH_TWIST
COLOR RECAP
NEUTRALS
PANTONE® 19-1101 TPX
PANTONE® 19-1015 TPX
DOMINANTS
PANTONE® 19-1532 TPX
PANTONE® 19-1250 TPX
PANTONE® 19-2024 TPX
ACCENTS
PANTONE® 14-0755 TPX
PANTONE® 19-5420 TPX
COLOR COMBINATION
PANTONE® 18-1663 TPX
PANTONE® 19-3720 TPX
RE_PATCHING
COLOR RECAP
NEUTRALS
PANTONE® 19-1420 TPX
PANTONE® 17-1147 TPX
PANTONE® 17-1134 TPX
PANTONE® 14-0755 TPX
PANTONE® 19-1338 TPX
PANTONE® 18-2043 TPX
PANTONE® 19-4035TPX
DOMINANTS
PANTONE® 17-0235 TPX
ACCENTS
PANTONE® 19-3528 TPX
COLOR COMBINATION
PANTONE® 17-1224 TPX
Ars Sutoria - Background
The Ars Sutoria magazine was founded in 1947 specifically for footwear manufacturers.
Since its origin, the magazine has been produced inside the publishing offices of the
International Technical Institute for the Footwear Industry – to underline the fact that this
publishing experience is rooted in the desire to offer footwear professional contents that
are both creative and highly technical, i.e. never disconnected from the reality of the Italian
manufacturing industry. The first issues of the magazine, which are still available for viewing
at the Milan headquarters, presented footwear ideas, concepts and designs. Our aim is to
recapture this proactive spirit.
Over the years, the Ars Sutoria magazine has become the reference point for learning about
footwear collections, materials and components. The possibility to travel around the world and
the availability of digital information in real time has allowed us to be a strategic observatory
of the most important events and trends in the international fashion world. The rational
observation of these trends allows us to offer expert opinions on what was successful in
international markets during current and past seasons, but also to formulate proposals and
incentives to help operators work on their upcoming collections.
Our information offer
Trends Guide
Ars Sutoria Research Team each season
presents its trend forecasting analysis,
focused on shoes and bags industry.
All this is published on Ars Sutoria
Trends Guide, a complete trend book
with analysis of colours, materials,
shapes, markets and brands.
SPRING/SUMMER
NOV
ON/OFF DUTY
WESTERN CHARM
URBANIST
OUTDOOR
SNEAKER
FREAKER
GET THE GLAM
EMOJI SYMBOL
Rebellious Combinations
Confident Class
Refined Natural
Soft Washed
Minimal Slow Outdoor
Effortle
EffortlessFreedom
Fancy Sport
Slip Up Pump Up
Icon Style
Styl
Basic
Personalize
Personali
ze my Bas
Social Network Symbols
Candy And Sweets
Slow
ow West
TECH
AERODYNAMIC
AUTUMN/WINTER
MAY
Up-beat
eat Emoticons
Em
URBAN SURVIVAL BOLD SIGNATURE
Active Casual Dynamism Metropolitan Athletics
Visionary Planners
Architecture Dualism
Creative Minimalism
Kaleidoscopic Lines
IRONIC
EXOTICISM
EXOTIC
CREATIVE GARDEN
SPORT GLAM
Rebel Lines
Geometric Volumes
Broken Flower
Eye Catching Fashion
Athletic Chic
Hybrid Fashionista
Urban Visionaires
Sketchbook
The trend forecasting is translated into
sketches by professional designers,
organized as mini-collections where
materials and volumes are matched
with original designs.
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Sketchbooks:
s Julia Classic elegant women shoes
s Julia Sport casual women shoes
s Jolly casual men shoes
s Arpel Sketchbook and bags
Flow Reboot
16
ST SS 20
FORECA
R 2015/16
ST WINTE
FORECA
SPORT
16
ST SS 20
FORECA
CLASSIC
16
ST SS 20
FORECA
ORIGINAL
AL DESIGNS
DES
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BY ARS SUTORIA
ORIGINAL DESIGNS
SPRING/SUMMER
FEB
ORIGINAL DESIGNS BY ARS SUTORIA
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AUTUMN/WINTER
JUN
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ORIGINAL DESIGNS BY ARS SUTORIA
Styles & Materials
Forecast analysis is completed with the
report of trends as seen among shoe
industry suppliers: materials, textiles,
soles, heels, components, accessories
and designers models.
Ars Sutoria Styles & Materials include
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s Julia Sport casual women shoes
s Jolly men shoes
s Junior children shoes
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ATERIALS
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FORECA
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Leather NUOVA OSBA ITALIA
Sole SUOLIFICIO SQUADRONI
SPRING/SUMMER
MAR
Designer LINEA PANDO - ANTONIO PANDOLFO - Leather ALBA
Leather PELLAMI DUE C
AUTUMN/WINTER
OCT
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FRESCO PELLI
OVERSIZE SOLE
www.ars.photo/398b-oversizesole
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Arstrends.com
WEEKLY UPDATED
Arstrends.com is the online database
for shoes, bags and materials.
Updated on weekly basis, it contains
photos of shoes, bags and materials
from trade fair collections, fashion
shows and shop windows from top
fashion cities. It also contains shoes
and bags sketches.
Research is facilitated with tools as
ÄS[LYZaVVTZMH]VYP[LZ»MVSKLYZHUK
multiple download.
;^VKPɈLYLU[]PZ\HSPaH[PVUVMNHSSLY`
(grid and slide show).
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1 year bag styles access
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1 year shoe + bag access
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1 year full access: shoe + shoe styles + bag + bag styles
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ARS ONLY WOMANONLY MAN ONLY SPORT
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€ 150
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2 seasons
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€ 250
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TECHNICAL
TECHNICAL DICTIONARY
1 book
ARS TANNERY
1 year
6
€ 90
€ 120YLDSRVWDOVHUYLFH
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2 years
12
€ 150
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training
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CONTACT Mrs Rossella Cucco
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www.arssutoria.com elearning.arssutoria.com
International Fashion Footwear Magazine
founded in 1947
editorial director
Matteo Pasca
executive editor
Enrico Martinelli
editorial staff
Emanuela Cecchetti Livia Sismondi
Ars Sutoria Research Team
Orietta Pelizzari (concept research)
Elena Marradi (research assistant)
public relation & communication
Mariella Catalano
[email protected]
marketing coordinators
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Poste Italiane Spa - Spedizione in abbonamento postale - D.L. 353/2003 (conv. In L. 27/02/2004 n. 46) art. 1, comma 1, DCB Milano
Pubblicazione registrata presso il Tribunale di Milano al numero 234 in data 10 Giugno 1966. Direttore Responsabile Matteo Pasca
© Copyright 1967 Stampa: ARS ARPEL GROUP Settimo Milanese
Tutti i diritti di proprietà artistica e letteraria sono riservati.
E’ assolutamente vietata la riproduzione totale o parziale di articoli, disegni e fotografie, in qualsiasi forma e modo, sia analogico che digitale,
anche citandone la fonte, senza espressa autorizzazione della casa editrice. Ogni abuso sarà perseguito a norma di legge
All artwork and copyrights are reserved. Total or partial reproduction is absolutely forbidden of articles, designs and
photographs in any form, either analogical or digital, even if stating the source, without the express permission of the publishing house. Any abuse will be punished by law.
Le inserzioni pubblicitarie sono pubblicate sotto la totale responsabilità del committente; la casa editrice non si assume alcuna responsabilità per il loro contenuto.
Per ogni contestazione si rimanda all’indirizzo del committente pubblicato sulla sua stessa pagina pubblicitaria o, in mancanza, in fondo alla rivista.
Adverts are published at the full responsibility of the client; the publishing house does not accept any responsibility for the contents. All notifications must be referred to the advertiser,
whose address can be found either printed on his advertising page or, if this is not the case, in the end of the magazine.
Ai sensi dell’articolo 2 comma 2 del Codice di deontologia relativo al trattamento dei dati personali nell’esercizio dell’attività giornalistica, si rende nota l’esistenza di una banca-dati
personali di uso redazionale presso la sede di Milano, via Ippolito Nievo 33. Gli interessati potranno rivolgersi al responsabile del trattamento dei dati Ing. Matteo Pasca presso la
sede di Milano, via Ippolito Nievo 33,
per esercitare i diritti previsti dal D.L.GS. 30 giugno 2003, n.196