Blueprint for Roofing - Canroof Roofing Products

Transcription

Blueprint for Roofing
Shingle Application Guide
TABLE OF CONTENTS
Shingle Application Guide
Table of Contents
Introduction
4
Part 1
Roof Types and Definitions
4
Part 2 Measurements and Materials
5
Part 3 Tool Requirements and Preparation
7
Part 4
Safety8
Part 5
Deck Preparation and Roof Repair
Part 6 Drip Edges, Eave Protection and Underlayment
10
Part 7
Valley Construction 13
Part 8
All Shingle Application
9
14
A Armourshake Application
15
B Crowne Slate Application
16
C Cambridge/Grandeur Application
17
D Royal Estate Application
18
E Marathon Application
19
Part 9
Re-Roofing20
Part 10
Low Slope - Roof-Fast Application Part 11
Ventilation25
Part 12
Flashings27
Part 13
Hips and Ridges
30
Part 14
Inspection and Clean Up
32
Part 15
Roof Care and Maintenance 32
Part 16
Products32
Glossary
22
36
3
INTRODUCTION
INTRODUCTION
•
Play the program modules through completely.
•
Play them a second time and compare the information with the installation
instructions printed on the bundle wrappers and information available through
our website, www.iko.com
If you are a professional roofing contractor, consider joining IKO’s Shield Pro Plus
Contractor Program that has been developed to help increase sales, become more profitable
and expand your business opportunities; this program will help set you apart from your
competitors. As a member of the elite Shield Pro Plus program, you will be given exclusive
access to IKO’s Extended Iron Clad Protection, customized marketing tools to assist in
.
promoting your business and an online tool with the ability to order warranties and access
training tools from the comfort of your office. For additional information or to obtain an
enrollment package, please contact your local IKO sales representative.
Note: All safety guidelines outlined by Government Safety and Fall
Protection standards must be followed at all times.
PAR T 1
ROOF TYPES AND DEFINITIONS
Most homes will have one of these roof styles:
The Shed Roof
The Hip Roof or Cottage
Roof
The Gable Roof
The Gambrel Roof
Every roof has similar features. For example, the ridge is at the top.
The eaves are the horizontal, lower edges of a sloped roof. The hip runs from the ridge to
the eaves on a Cottage Style Roof. A valley is the intersection of two sloping roof planes.
4
PART 2
Measurements and Materials
Ridges
Rake Edges
Hips
Valleys & Dormers
Low Pitch Areas
Eaves
Part 2
Calculations for square footage of the roofing surface can be made by
simply adding up the areas of the various roof sections.
The sum of the total area is then divided by the coverage of each bundle of shingles.
Typically, an average 3-tab bundle covers 3 m2 (32.3 square feet), while our architectural
shingle bundles vary between 1.86 m2 and 3.1 m2 (20 and 33.3 square feet). It is advisable to
add ten to fifteen percent to this area for material waste or loss based on your roof style.
When using underlayment, the square measure of the roof may be used again to determine
the number of rolls of underlayment required. We recommend our Number 15 Plain
Asphalt Felt or RoofGard-SB or RoofGard-Cool Grey synthetic underlayment for this job.
Drip Edging requirements are determined by measuring the lengths of the eaves and rake
edges. An open metal valley flashing is recommended for the protection of valley areas.
Depending on the roof design and the shingle chosen, closed cut and woven valleys may
also be acceptable.
A “pitch finder” tool can also be useful to measure the slope of the roof. You can
determine the roof area by measuring the horizontal area of the roof or attic floor, and then
multiplying by a factor which compensates for the slope of a roof.
For ice dam protection along the eaves (or anywhere that is susceptible to water
penetration), you’ll need IKO’s GoldShield Premium Ice & Water Protector, ArmourGard
Ice & Water Protector, or StormShield Standard Ice & Water Protector. Asphalt plastic
cement is used to seal at vents, stacks, or chimneys.
5
PART 2
IKO’s Ice & Water Protectors are modified
bitumen roll roofing products with a
self-adhesive backing that, once applied
correctly, will provide superior protection
against wind-driven rain and ice dams.
Galvanized roofing nails are the best fastener to use for roofing, and they should be long
enough to penetrate through the shingles and into the deck approximately 19 mm (¾")
and through the deck if it is plywood or OSB. Nails no less than 6 mm (¼") longer will be
required for capping the hips and ridges.
IKO recommends our PRO 4 Roofing system. Shingles alone are sometimes not enough
to protect your home. IKO has developed a superior multi-layered roofing system
incorporating our industry-leading products. IKO’s Pro 4 Roofing System is setting the
standard in protecting your home.
IKO’s Shingles - Crowne Slate, Armourshake, Royal Estate, Cambridge, Grandeur and
Marathon shingles are created using the industry’s most advanced technology and selected
by consumers who demand the best in terms of quality, durability and value. Along with
one of IKO’s quality shingles, your Pro 4 System includes these accessory products;
•
Eave Protection - GoldShield, ArmourGard, or StormShield Ice & Water
Protectors. IKO’s Ice & Water Protectors provide a second line of defense against
water penetration due to ice dams or wind-driven rain and the costly damage it
can cause. This product is strongly recommended for sealing around vents, low
pitch areas, ridges, hips, rake edges, chimneys, dormers, vent stacks, and skylights.
•
Underlayment - Asphalt Saturated Felt, RoofGard-SB or RoofGard-Cool Grey
Underlayments, Use an asphalt saturated felt underlayment, or our innovative
RoofGard-SB or RoofGard‑Cool Grey synthetic underlayment for total deck
protection.
•
Roof Starters - Leading Edge Plus Starter Strips. Fast, Easy and Convenient.
IKO’s Starter Strips are already cut to size saving valuable time during the
installation of the first course of shingles. Compatible with all existing IKO
Shingles, Leading Edge Plus includes a sealant strip at the bottom edge allowing
for a tight seal.
6
Tool Requirements and Preparation
•
PART 3
Ridge Cap Shingles - Hip and Ridge, Hip & Ridge 12 Cap Shingles or Ultra HPTM
High Profile Ridge Cap Shingles. Ridge cap shingles are required where roof
planes meet, and provide additional protection along these high stress areas of the
roof, enhancing your home’s aesthetic appeal by accentuating the roof line.
Part 3
Tool Requirements and Preparation
Proper and safe tools are the key to any successful job.
•
Ladders should always be sturdy and long enough to reach the roof area at the
proper angle, approximately one quarter of the vertical height out from the wall
and should extend about 1 m (3') above the eaves. Make sure your ladder or
scaffolding is tied off at the roof edge and all locking devices are secured.
•
Vertical and horizontal chalk lines are applied to ensure accurate shingle
alignment over the roof surface.
•
The roofing knife blade is hooked for cutting and fitting asphalt shingles.
•
The hammer may either be a well-balanced claw hammer or a specially designed
roofer’s hatchet.
•
You will also need a nail apron and perhaps a pair of knee pads.
•
A caulking gun, putty knife or pointed trowel are used for applying the asphalt
plastic cement.
•
Tin snips will be used to cut metal flashing materials.
7
PART 4
Safety
•
A circular saw may be required for repairing or replacing damaged decking.
•
A pry-bar is a handy tool for lifting hard to get at shingles and flashings.
•
A square-edge shovel or pitch fork is an excellent tool for removing old shingles.
•
Galvanized roofing nails are the best fastener to use for roofing ensuring that they
are driven straight so that the nail head is flush with the shingle surface.
•
Protect shrubbery, air conditioners, bay windows or other protrusions from falling
debris by using tarps or sheets of plywood.
•
And a good-sized waste receptacle should be placed conveniently below the area
being worked on.
Be aware of those working with and
around you. Make sure that everyone
knows how to properly use the tools of
trade, both manual and power.
Part 4
Safety
Proper preparation and careful attention to what you are doing are important
considerations for any undertaking. Learn and adhere to Government Safety and Fall
Protection standards. Certain jurisdictions may require the shingle applicator to use fall
arrest safety equipment when on roofs of certain heights and slopes. IKO recommends
contacting your local building or labor department for more information.
Inspect the job site for possible hazards such as unstable ground conditions, or overhead
electrical lines. Do not attempt to work in bad weather or on wet or icy surfaces.
Beware of those working around you. Make sure that everyone knows how to properly use
the tools of the trade, both manual and power.
Keep your safety equipment clean and in good working order. When not in use, store your
equipment in a safe place.
8
PART 5
Keep your safety equipment clean and in working
order. When not in use, store your equipment in a
safe place. You will want to be able to tie-off on
steep roofs without worrying that a frayed rope or
strap will break.
Make sure you have proper footwear for good traction. Rubber-soled shoes are best. And
never work alone. Avoid leaning away from the ladder to work and remember to tie it off
to the eaves troughing each time it is moved. Keep the work area free of debris, which is a
constant tripping hazard. Consider a trained professional roofer if the roof is steep!
Note: All safety guidelines outlined by Government Safety and Fall
Protection standards must be followed at all times.
Part 5
If the old shingles are to be removed, it’s recommended to strip one roof plane at a time and
work in these sections through all steps up to and including the roof shingles. Start on the
section farthest from the disposal bin so as not to walk on newly laid shingles.
The deck must be dry for the job.
Be sure that all old nails are removed or hammered down flush to the deck surface. It is
essential to make all necessary repairs to the existing roof deck. A warped or uneven surface
is difficult to work with during the re-roofing job and creates an unprofessional looking
finished project.
The deck should be applied in a staggered pattern bridged across roof rafters or roof
trusses. Replace rotted, damaged, or warped sheathing or delaminated plywood as it can
cause shingles to distort and/or buckle. If the entire deck is to be replaced, check the
building codes to determine the required thickness and type of sheathing required in your
municipality. Dimensional lumber is subject to expansion and contraction caused by
temperature and humidity changes.
9
PART 6
Drip Edges, Eave Protection and Underlayment
A deck built with plywood panels
generally works well with asphalt
shingles.
To avoid buckling shingles, you should cover a dimensional deck with an
inexpensive sheathing. Our Asphalt Shingle Limited Warranty does not
cover buckling.
Bad decks can cause shingles to distort
and/or buckle.
Soil stack and vent flashings can be used again if they’re in good condition, but you should
consider replacing them with new ones.
Part 6
Metal or plastic drip edge material nailed every 300 mm (12") may be applied to protect
wooden edges from damage and to facilitate water run-off into the eavestrough.
Note that IKO’s Pro 4 Roofing System recommends that along with IKO’s shingles,
accessory items be utilized to ensure roof performs to its maximum capacity. Eave
protection and underlayment are recommended components to the multi-layered system.
Apply IKO’s GoldShield Premium Ice & Water Protector, ArmourGard Ice & Water
Protector, or StormShield Standard Ice & Water Protector as ice dam protection along
the eaves. For ideal protection, Ice & Water Protector should extend up the roof, 610 mm
10
PART 6
(24") from the inside face of the exterior wall and over the drip edging. However, it
is recommended to check your local building codes as it may require the Ice & Water
Protector to extend further up the roof.
Ice dams form when melted snow runs down the roof to the eaves and freezes again, which
forces water back up underneath the shingles. Eave protection carries any water which
backs up through the shingle and to the gutter.
Melting snow.
Trapped water.
Ice dams form when
melted snow runs down
Ice dam.
the roof to the eaves
and freezes again, which
force water back up
underneath the shingles.
Eave protection carries any
water which backs up through
the shingles to the gutter.
Inside face of stud.
To apply StormShield and ArmourGard Ice & Water Protectors:
1.
Cut the membrane into 3 m to 4.5 m (10' to 15') lengths.
2.
Unroll and align with the lower edge of roof and tack top edge with four equally
spaced temporary fasteners.
3.
Lift the lower half and remove the lower release film, exposing the adhesive surface.
Carefully reposition the membrane down onto the deck and press firmly in place.
Avoid wrinkles. Remove temporary fasteners.
4.
Fold top half down and remove release film. Carefully reposition the membrane up
onto the deck and press firmly in place.
To apply GoldShield Ice & Water Protector:
1.
Cut the membrane into 3 m to 4.5 m (10' to 15') lengths and reroll. Carefully slit
the release paper on a 45° angle. Fold back the release paper exposing the adhesive
backing. This corner will be used to hold the material in place as you begin installation.
2.
Unroll the next piece of material ensuring that there is an overlap of 90 mm (3 ½") Do
not remove release film at this time. Unroll 1 m - 2 m (3' - 6') of membrane.
3.
Carefully slit the release paper at the top of the roll. DO NOT CUT THROUGH THE
MEMBRANE.
11
PART 6
4.
Peel back approximately 150 mm (6") of the release paper to expose the adhesive. Peel
the release paper in the opposite direction that you are applying the membrane.
5.
Pull the release paper in the direction that you are applying the membrane, applying
pressure to the membrane as you proceed. The membrane will adhere to the deck.
6.
Once you have finished laying the membrane, go back to the beginning of the roll, and
pull off the release paper at that end.
Next, install the underlayment, overlapping the ice and water protector by 100 mm (4").
Please note that a felt or synthetic underlayment, or equivalent, is strongly recommended
beneath fiberglass shingles applied to slopes below 6:12. Please refer to the IKO Asphalt
Shingle Limited Warranty or the bundle wrappers for further details.
Underlayment comes in rolls. It must be unrolled, cut to convenient lengths, and laid out
flat until completely relaxed before shingles are applied over it.
Water resistant underlayment felts are
recommended for a sound roofing system.
Use only enough nails or staples to hold each run in place, overlapping the course below
by approximately 50 mm (2") (100 mm (4") for RoofGard-SB or Cool-Grey) and ends by
100 mm (4"). Never use a piece less than 2 m (6') in length. Underlayment should overlap
hips and ridges by 150 mm (6"), and approximately 100 mm (4") extensions should be left at
the chimney and any vertical projection from the roof surface.
Apply metal drip edges over the underlayment at the rake edges.
For slopes between 2:12 and 4:12, that is between 50 mm (2") of rise to 300 mm (12") of run
and 100 mm (4") of rise to 300 mm (12") of run, shingles may be applied. However, in order
to validate the Asphalt Shingle Limited Warranty, a full layer of an Ice & Water Protector or
two layers of number 15 plain felt, cemented together to 610 mm (24") beyond the interior
wall line, and then nailed for the rest of the roof, must be applied to roofs of these slopes.
For shingled roof slopes between 2:12 and 3:12, we offer a 12-Year Limited Warranty,
regardless of the shingle applied. If this same application procedure is followed for roof
slopes between 3:12 and 4:12, a full Limited Material Warranty will be offered.
Do not apply Crowne Slate on a slope 4:12 or less.
12
Valley Construction
PART 7
Please note that IKO’s Ice & Water Protectors are vapor retarders. The space under the roof
deck must be properly ventilated to avoid moisture condensation.
Deck.
Drip edge.
483 mm
(19")
")
m (36
914 m
")
m (19
4 83 m
483 mm
(19")
Drip edge.
m
4 83 m
(19 ")
430 m
Courses cemented
to a point at least
610 mm (24")
beyond interior
wall line.
7 ")
m (1
Starter strip.
Application of
underlayment on
low slopes.
Asphalt plastic cement
or lap cement.
305 mm (12") end lap.
Wall line.
First and succeeding courses
are 914 mm (36") wide with
483 mm (19") lap.
Part 7
Valley Construction
There are several different valley application methods which include
closed, open and woven.
For longer roof performance, IKO strongly recommends open metal valleys. Complete
the application of underlayment and valley flashing before the shingles are applied. The
recommended flashing material is a 28-gauge galvanized metal or an equivalent corrosion
resistant, non staining material (check with local codes). Center a 914 mm (36") width
strip of an ice and water protector membrane in the valley. The product is tacked in place
temporarily along one edge. Carefully peel away the backing, and put it in place, smoothing
out any wrinkles. Start working from the eave, allowing additional pieces to overlap by at
least 150 mm (6"). Remove the temporary nails.
Center a minimum 610 mm (24") wide, minimum 28 gauge pre-finished/galvanized metal
valley liner in the valley, and fasten with only enough nails to hold it in place, nailing at
the edges only. Overlap each metal piece by at least 150 mm (6") and use asphalt plastic
cement under each section of overlap. Snap two chalk lines the full length of the valley,
150 mm (6") apart at the top 75 mm (3") on each side of the valley and increasing in width
3 mm (⅛") per 300 mm (12") towards the bottom to a maximum of 200 mm (8"). When the
shingles are being applied, lay them over the valley flashing, trim the ends to the chalk line
and nail the shingles at least 50 mm (2") back from the chalk line. Cut a 50 mm (2") triangle
off the top corner to direct water into the valley and embed the valley end of each shingle
into a 75 mm (3") band of asphalt plastic cement.
13
PART 8
Valley underlayment
Valley centerline
Underlayment
Chalk lines
diverge 3 mm
per 300 mm
(⅛" par 12")
Asphalt plastic cement
Metal valley flashing
Open Valley Application.
300 mm (12") top lap
50 mm (2") clipped
off corner at 45°
End shingles trimmed to chalk
line and set in 75 mm (3") width
of cement
Part 8
Whether you are applying Architectural or Traditional 3-Tab Shingles, it is recommended that
you read and familiarize yourself with the application instructions provided on the back of each
shingle wrapper. One cannot go wrong if those instructions are adhered to during the installation
of IKO shingles. Although all types, styles, and sizes have a commonality to their application, each
will have an individual installation feature that you must familiarize yourself with.
Remember to always drive nails straight so that nail head is flush with, but not cutting into shingle
surface. Also, if nail heads are left protruding, they can tear into the shingle that is applied on top
of them.
Starter Strip Application:
For the starter strip, we recommend using IKO’s Leading Edge Plus, a starter course that has
already been cut to size. Each 1 m (39 ⅜") x 337 mm (13 ¼") IKO Leading Edge Plus strip is
perforated lengthwise for separation into two (2) shingles.
Note that IKO’s Pro 4 Roofing System recommends that along with IKO’s shingles, accessory
items be utilized to ensure roof performs to its maximum capacity. Starter strips are
recommended component to the multi-layered system.
Take one IKO Leading Edge Plus strip and fold flat at the perforation to separate. Take one of the
separated shingles and remove approximately 508 mm (20"). Install this shingle on the lower left
corner of the roof deck, granule side up, with the factory installed sealant adjacent to the eaves.
14
Armourshake Application
PART 8A
The shingle should overhang the rake edge and eaves by 6 mm - 10 mm (¼" – ⅜"). Fasten
the shingle to the roof deck with nails located 75 mm to 100 mm (3" to 4") from the eave
edge and 25 mm (1") in from each end.
Take the leftover 508 mm (20") piece shingle. Rotate the piece and align it vertically up
the rake edge with the factory installed sealant adjacent to the outer edge of the roof. The
shingle should overhang the rake edge by 6 mm - 10 mm (¼" – ⅜"). Fasten the shingle to
the roof deck with fasteners located 75 mm to 100 mm (3" to 4") from the rake edge and
25 mm (1") in from each end.
Repeat these steps to the right lower corner of the roof deck. Apply full-length IKO Leading
Edge Plus shingles to the remaining eave edge of the roof deck. Install the shingles granule
side up with the factory applied sealant adjacent to the eaves. The shingles should overhang
the rake edge and eaves by 6 mm - 10 mm (¼" – ⅜"). Fasten the shingles to the roof deck
with nails located 75 mm to 100 mm (3" to 4") from the eave edge, 4 nails per shingle.
Make certain the first course of field shingle lies flush with the edges of the fastened IKO
Leading Edge Plus. In this way, the sealant on the IKO Leading Edge Plus shingles will
adhere to the first-course field shingles and help keep them from lifting in high winds.
As a general rule, all shingles must be applied properly. We assume no responsibility for
leaks or defects resulting from poor application or failure to properly prepare the surface
to be roofed over, or failure to provide proper ventilation in accordance with minimum
property standards requirements. Review all applicable building codes, minimum property
standards and requirements prior to applying these shingles using the application
instructions found on the bundle wrapper. Please use caution when stacking bundles on
sloped roofs.
Part 8A
Armourshake Application
Armour Starter Application:
After applying the Leading Edge Plus starter strip shingle, install the Armour Starter shingle
starting on the lower left corner of the roof deck, granule side up. Apply full-length IKO
Armour Starter shingles to the eave edge of the roof deck. Make certain the Armour Starter
shingles lie flush with the edges of the fastened IKO Leading Edge Plus.
Armourshake Application:
First Course: Start with a full shingle. Trim the rake end of the shingle slightly so it is flush
with the rake. Apply the shingle flush with starter course at rake and eaves. Use 5 nails per
shingle in the nail line approximately 25 mm (1") from each end and equally spaced along
the shingle’s full length. Drive nails straight so that the nail head is flush with, but not
cutting into, the shingle surface.
15
PART 8B
Crowne Slate Application
Second Course: Start with a shingle from which 143 mm (5 ⅝") has been cut at the rake
end. Align the end of the shingle with the alignment notch in the top edge of the first course
shingle. Continue with full shingles along the second course.
Third Course: Start with a shingle from which 286 mm (11 ¼") has been cut at the rake end.
Use the appropriate alignment notch in the top edge of the second course shingle. Continue
with full shingles along the third course.
Fourth Course: Start with a shingle from which 429 mm (16 ⅞") has been cut at the rake
end. Use the appropriate alignment notch in the top edge of the third course shingle.
Continue with full shingles along the fourth course.
Fifth Course: Start with a shingle from which 572 mm (22 ½") has been cut at the rake end.
Use the appropriate alignment notch in the top edge of the fourth course shingle. Continue
with full shingles along the fifth course.
Sixth Course: Start with a shingle from which 714 mm (28 ⅛") has been cut at the rake end.
Use the appropriate alignment notch in the top edge of the fifth course shingle. Continue
with full shingles along the sixth course.
Successive Courses: Repeat this pattern: Full shingle cut flush, 143 mm (5 ⅝") removed,
286 mm (11 ¼") removed, 429 mm (16 ⅞") removed, 572 mm (22 ½") removed, 714 mm
(28 ⅛") removed, full shingle cut flush, 143 mm (5 ⅝") removed, 286 mm (11 ¼") removed,
429 mm (16 ⅞") removed, 571 mm (22 ½") removed, 714 mm (28 ⅛") removed etc.
For added wind protection, use 6 nails per shingle and seal down each shingle with (3)
25 mm (1") diameter spots of asphalt plastic cement placed under each tab.
50 mm (2")
100 mm (4")
Underlayment
Metal
Drip
Edge
Eave protection
ArmourShake
Shingle Application.
Metal Drip Edge
Part 8B
Crowne Slate Application
D
ue to shingle design, it is recommended to begin application at the left side of the roof and
work across the roof to the right. This is a fully laminated two-layer shingle. Shingles should
be laid flat (not bent) prior to installation to avoid distortions and buckles.
First Course: Starting from the left rake edge, trim 229 mm (9") (one full tab) from the
end of the shingle so that the tab is flush with the rake edge. Apply the shingle flush with
16
Cambridge/Grandeur Application
PART 8C
starter course at left rake edge and eaves. Use 5 nails per shingle placed in the nail line
approximately 25 mm (1") in from each end and equally spaced along the shingle’s full
length. Drive nails straight so that the nail head is flush with, but not cutting into, shingle
surface. Continue across the roof with full shingles, overlapping each shingle as you
proceed.
Second Course: Start with a shingle from which one and one half tabs has been cut at the
rake end. Apply with lower edge of the shingle 250 mm (10") above that of the first course.
There are small shingle alignment slits at the sides and in the top edge of the shingle to aid
installation, but chalk lines should always be used to ensure proper offset.
Third and Succeeding Courses: Start the third course with a shingle from which two full
tabs have been cut off. Cut off an additional half a tab to start each succeeding course,
aligning the lower edge of the shingle 250 mm (10") above that of the preceding course.
At the fifth course, repeat the sequence of the first four courses. For maximum wind
protection, cement shingles at the rake edges.
25 mm (1") diameter spots of asphalt plastic cement spaced as shown on the shingle bundle
wrapper.
Crowne Slate
Shingle Application.
Part 8C
Cambridge/Grandeur Application
Note that these brands, Cambridge and Grandeur, are the same size so
we will discuss installation collectively.
First Course: Start with a complete shingle applied flush with starter course at rake and
eave. Use 4 nails per shingle placed in the nail line 187 mm (7 ⅜") below the top edge,
approximately 25 mm (1") and 330 mm (13") in from each end. Drive nails straight so that
nail head is flush with, but not cutting into shingle surface. Continue across roof with full
shingles.
Second, Third and Fourth Courses: Trim off 250 mm, 508 mm, and 762 mm (10", 20",
and 30") respectively, from the left end of the starting shingle and apply to overhang rake
edge by 6 mm to 10 mm (¼" to ⅜"). Continue each course across the roof with full shingles
butting ends loosely. Align the bottom edge of the shingles with the tops of the saw teeth of
the shingles in the underlying course.
Fifth and Succeeding Courses: Repeat the sequence of the first four courses up the roof. For
maximum wind protection, cement shingles at rake edges.
17
PART 8D
Royal Estate Application
F or added wind protection, use 6 nails per shingle and seal down each shingle with (3)
25 mm (1") diameter spots of asphalt plastic cement spaced evenly along the shingle.
Underlayment
100 mm
(4")
760 mm
50 mm (2")
(30")
508 mm
Eave
protection
(20")
250 mm
(10")
2nd, 3rd
and 4th
courses
First course
Laminated Shingle
Application.
Metal drip
edge
Starter strip
Part 8D
Royal Estate Application
First Course: Start with a complete shingle applied flush with starter course at rake and
eave. Use 4 nails per shingle placed in the nail line 181 mm (7 ⅛") below the top edge,
approx. 25 mm and 330 mm (1" and 13") in from each end. Drive nails straight so that nail
head is flush with, but not cutting into shingle surface.
Second, Third And Fourth Courses: Trim off 250 mm, 508 mm, and 762 mm (10", 20",
and 30") respectively, from the left end of the starting shingle and apply to overhang rake
edge by 6 mm to 10 mm (¼" to ⅜"). Continue each course across the roof with full shingles
butting ends loosely. Align the bottom edge of the shingles with the tops of the cutouts of
the shingles in the underlying course.
Fifth And Succeeding Courses: Repeat the sequence of the first four courses up the roof.
For maximum wind protection, cement shingles at rake edges.
Underlayment
100 mm (4")
50 mm (2")
Royal Estate
Eave protection
760 mm (30")
4th course
508 mm (20")
3rd course
250 mm (10")
2nd course
Application.
Metal drip
edge
First course
18
Shingle
Starter strip
Marathon Application
PART 8E
Part 8E
Marathon Application
There are several approved offset methods for applying 3-Tab shingles.
Half Tab Method
There is the half tab method whereby each course after the first, has an additional half of a
tab removed on the rake side, until it’s time to start over with a full shingle to complete the
succeeding courses. It is important to note that the proper exposure for the 3-Tab shingle
starts at the top of the cut-out and works down to the most exposed edge of the shingle.
Exposing more or less than what is recommended could result in wind damage or leaks
that are not protected by the Limited Warranty. This method can be employed when it is
necessary for the cut-outs of every other course to be aligned vertically up the roof. When
nailing 3-Tab shingles, use 4 nails per shingle placed 156 mm (6 ⅛") above the butt edge,
25 mm and 330 mm (1" and 13") in from each end and 13 mm (½") above each cutout.
Drive nails straight so that nail head is flush with, but not cutting into shingle surface.
Wood deck
Metal drip edge
Eaves flashing strip
3-Tab Shingle
Application.
Sealing strip
Drip edge
Start third course
with full strip
minus first tab
Start second course with
full strip minus ½ tab
Starter full shingle
minus 100 mm (4")
with tabs cut-off
Start first course
with full strip
Random Method
A superior method of applying 3-Tab shingles (instead of taking a half tab, or approximately
168 mm (6 ⅝") additional off of the shingle for each succeeding course after the first), allows
the installer to remove approximately 143 mm (5 ⅝") additional from each succeeding
course. Therefore, the third course will have 286 mm (11 ¼") removed from the rake side
of the shingle, the fourth course will have 429 mm (16 ⅞") removed, the fifth course will
have 572 mm (22 ½") removed, the sixth course will have 714 mm (28 ⅛") removed, and
the seventh course first shingle will be reduced by 857 mm (33 ¾"). Of course all of this
measuring can be done with the aid of the gauge on your roofing hatchet or power nailer
fixed at the shingle exposure of 143 mm (5 ⅝").
19
PART 9
Re-Roofing
This method of application has a significant advantage over the half tab method. This
method will mask any small variations in the shingle alignment that are due to variations in
deck squareness, normal production or shingle application processes.
Please remind yourself that under no circumstance do you want the cut-outs of the shingles
to be closer than 100 mm (4") when aligned with the next course both above and below. As
well, you do not want the joints of the starter strips to be any closer than 100 mm (4") to the
joints or cut-outs of the shingles in the first course.
The random spacing method of applying 3-Tab shingles can be achieved by removing
differing amounts from the rake tab. Generally, the following principles should be followed.
•
The width of any tab should be no less than ¼ of the overall dimension of that tab.
•
The cut-outs should not be located any less than 100 mm (4") laterally from the
cut-outs in both the course above and the course below.
•
The width of the tabs at the rake must not repeat close enough to cause the eye to
be able to follow a cut-out alignment.
As an example, the first course can be a full shingle tab wide. The second course can start
with ½ of the rake side tab being removed. The third course can start with ¼ of the rake
side tab removed. The fourth course can start with ¾ of the rake side tab removed. The fifth
course can be started with another ½ tab to the rake side.
Part 9
Re-Roofing
If you feel that your roof deck is in good condition and needs no repair,
you can re-roof over the existing layer of shingles. For best results, we
recommend a technique called “nesting”.
However, it is advised that you check your local building codes to ensure re-roofing over
existing shingles is allowed for your area.
Nesting, which minimizes an uneven appearance that can be caused by the underlying
material, may also be used when applying metric-sized shingles over an existing roof of
metric shingles.
20
Re-Roofing
PART 9
If the old shingles have only a 125 mm (5") exposure, you will require 12.5% or ⅛ more
3-tabs than you would if you stripped off to the deck.
Begin with a “starter” strip. Remove the tabs plus enough from the top of the starter strip so
that the remaining portion is equal in width to the exposure of the old shingles.
Apply the starter strip so that it is even with the existing roof at the eaves, locating the
factory applied adhesive along the eaves edge.
Remove 100 mm (4") from the end of the first starter strip shingle to ensure that joints
between adjacent starter strip shingles will be covered when the first course is applied.
For the first course, you need to trim enough material from the bottom of the shingles to
allow them to fit between the bottom of the tabs of the old third course and the eave edge of
the new starter strip.
Start with a full length shingle. Use 4 nails per shingle placed per the respective shingle’s
application instructions. In this case, for Cambridge, that would be in the nailing line. You
will require slightly longer nails, in order to penetrate through the old shingles and the roof
deck.
For the second and all succeeding courses, offset the shingles as you would for installation
on a new deck.
Place the top edge of the new shingle against the bottom edge of the tabs of the old shingle
in the course above.
Although the exposure of the first course is reduced when using this method, this will not
be noticeable when viewed from the ground.
For valleys, you must first build up the exposed valley area with Roof-Fast to a level flush
with the old shingles.
Center a minimum 610 mm (24") wide, minimum 28 gauge pre-finished/galvanized metal
valley liner in the valley, and fasten with only enough nails to hold it in place, nailing at
the edges only. Overlap each metal piece by at least 150 mm (6") and use asphalt plastic
cement under each section of overlap. Snap two chalk lines the full length of the valley,
150 mm (6") apart at the top and increasing in width 3 mm (⅛") per 300 mm (12") towards
the bottom to a maximum of 200 mm (8"). When the shingles are being applied, lay them
over the valley flashing, trim the ends to the chalk line, and cut a 50 mm (2") triangle off
the top corner to direct water into the valley. Embed the valley end of each shingle into a
75 mm (3") band of asphalt plastic cement, and nail the shingles 50 mm (2") back from the
chalk line.
21
PART 10
Low Slope - Roof-Fast Application
Special attention is required when working with existing flashings.
If the existing flashing is in good condition, continue applying the new shingles over the
existing shingles. Trim the new shingles to within 6 mm (¼") of the existing step flashing.
Embed the last 75 mm (3") of these shingles in asphalt plastic cement.
If the flashings need to be replaced, remove the counter flashing, cut away the old shingles
covering the step flashings, and remove the flashing. Build up the areas of the exposed roof
deck to a level even with the old shingles before applying new step flashings.
When applying the new shingles, each shingle course will be covered by a step flashing.
Flashings need to be at least 125 mm (5") high, and 125 mm (5") wide. Each flashing should
overlap the one below by at least 75 mm (3"), but not be visible below the shingle top lap.
Imbed each step flashing in a 75 mm (3") wide application of asphalt plastic cement, and
nail in place. The end of each shingle overlapping a step flashing is also well embedded in
plastic cement. Remember to reinstall counter-flashing over the step flashings.
Existing vents and flashings around soil stacks may be used again, but it’s recommended
that new flashings and vents be installed. Using the hooked blade knife, cut through the old
shingles around the perimeter of the flashing apron and remove them. Fill in this space with
a double layer of shingles.
Apply courses of new shingles up to the hole in the roof deck. Cut away the shingles to
reveal the hole. Plastic cement is applied at the edges and then the vent is nailed firmly in
place. Continue shingling, cutting to fit around the vent. The cut shingles should be laid in a
bed of asphalt plastic cement.
Pipe flashings are installed in a similar fashion and asphalt plastic cement is used to seal the
pipe. Nails used to secure flashings to the roof should be used sparingly and not be driven
close to the pipe.
A dab of plastic cement over the exposed nails is recommended to
avoid leakage.
Part 10
Some roof areas may not be suitable for shingles especially due to low slope (less than
2:12 down to 1:12). In these areas the recommended product is Roof-Fast, a self-adhered
membrane (SAM) system, ideal for low-slope roofing that combines the polymer chemistry
of commercial grade modified bitumen membranes with the self-adhesive characteristics of
an ice and water protector and the beauty of a granule surface.
22
PART 10
The Roof-Fast system is comprised of Roof-Fast Cap which is a fiberglass reinforced selfadhesive cap sheet in a variety of attractive mineral surface colors, with a release film on
the back side. Roof-Fast Base MA is a fiberglass reinforced nailable base with special film
surface designed for use with self-adhered cap sheet. Roof-Fast 95, a self-adhering base
sheet, is an alternative base sheet that may be used as part of the system.
To begin applying the Roof-Fast system using the Roof-Fast Base MA, start at the lowest
edge of the roof. Prepare a starter strip by cutting the base sheet lengthwise in half and lay
flat on the clean, dry deck. Leave a minimum 50 mm (2") of base sheet overhanging roof
edge to cover any exposed joints in the wood facia where water could penetrate. Fasten the
Roof‑Fast Base MA at 457 mm (18") on center in a row down the approximate center of the
starter sheet leaving upper edge free of fasteners for later steps in installation. The preferred
nail of choice for this application is a 25 mm (1") diameter steel cap nail.
Lay out a full width base sheet overlapping the starter sheet by a minimum of 75 mm (3").
Fasten through the overlap with 25 mm (1") disk nails 229 mm (9") on center working from
the center of the sheet outwards. Ensure the sheet lays flat and wrinkle free at all times.
Fasten the center of the sheet with two rows of nails 457 mm (18") apart in a staggered
formation starting from the center and working outwards.
Repeat this step until the entire surface has been covered.
Prior to beginning the drip edge installation, prime surface of drip edge/metal flashing with
primer for self adhering membrane and allow to dry. Turn down 50 mm (2") overlap from
starter strip along the drip edge area and secure with roofing nails at 229 mm (9") on center
to fascia. Cut a strip of Roof-Fast Cap 300 mm (12") wide and lay across roof edge granular
side down. Using the drip edge/metal flashing as a guide, score the release film the width
of the drip edge with the back of a utility knife. Remove scored release film closest to roof
edge and place primed drip edge/metal flashing over scored area of Roof-Fast. Fasten with
roofing nails at 229 mm (9") on center staggered approximately 25 mm (1") in from inside
metal edge.
To complete base sheet installation, secure base sheet at remaining perimeters with 25 mm
(1") steel cap nails 229 mm (9") on center.
To apply the Cap Sheet, start at the lowest point of the roof and roll out full width Roof‑Fast
Cap Sheet. Cut to desired length, dry fit to roof edge in final position and allow to relax.
Make sure the 90 mm (3 ½") sidelap on the Roof-Fast Cap is opposite, (furthest away), from
drip edge/metal flashing. Using the butterfly technique, while kneeling on the upper half of
positioned cap sheet fold back ½ of the width towards you to expose release film. Remove
remaining release film from 300 mm (12") inverted cap sheet strip. Remove exposed release
23
PART 10
film from Roof-Fast cap, (½ width), and slowly “walk” cap sheet into place over base sheet.
Fold down the upper unadhered cap sheet, remove release film and gently place into final
position.
Use a roller to ensure consistent contact of Roof-Fast Cap to the Base Sheet. In hot weather
it may be best to limit the length of individual pieces of Roof-Fast to a maximum of 4 m
(12') for ease of handling. Roll out second cap sheet, cut to size, dry fit into final position
and allow to relax. Ensure second sheet overlaps the 90 mm (3 ½") side lap of the first sheet.
Repeat the procedure for installation of first sheet remembering to remove release film
covering the side lap on the first sheet. Continue up the roof repeating this procedure until
all surface is covered.
To apply an end lap to the Roof-Fast Cap Sheet, cut a section of cap sheet that overlaps the
adhered section by 150 mm (6"). Apply a 150 mm (6") bead of mastic sealant with a trowel
on the overlap section. Peel off release film and press firmly. Remove remaining release
film on back of cap sheet and firmly press onto base sheet. Use a roller to ensure consistent
contact of Roof-Fast Cap to the Base Sheet.
The IKO End Lap is granulefree and protected with a peel
off foil release strip. Some cap
sheets may not have an End
Lap feature; in these cases use
cemented end lap procedure
above.
Roof Slope
150 mm (6")
Release poly - To be
removed prior to
seaming.
Down slope roll
The IKO 45° angle
cut provides
additional
adhesion at the
junction between
successive sheets.
This feature is
on Roof‑Fast
membranes only.
Roof-Fast (SAM)
Application Field
of Roof.
90 mm
(3 ½")
For the alternate base application, using the Roof-Fast 95 Base, apply a coat of self-adhering
primer to the full deck and allow to dry. Cut sheet to size and using the butterfly technique,
while kneeling on the upper half of positioned base cap sheet, fold back half of the width
towards you, remove release film and slowly “walk” base sheet into place. Fold down the
upper unadhered cap sheet, remove release film and gently place into position.
As an optional application, where roof area and roof slope allow, instead of starting with
a half-width of Roof-Fast Base MA, use a full-width of IKO’s GoldShield Premium Ice
& Water membrane. In this installation, at eaves/rakes, the drip edge is installed over
the GoldShield and below the fastened base sheet layer. The drip edge should be set in
continuous bands of asphalt cement to ensure water-tightness with the membrane layers.
24
Ventilation
PART 11
Part 11
Ventilation
Proper ventilation is necessary to mitigate attic heat build-up, and to avoid condensation
problems that may cause dampness to rot the roof deck and distort the roofing materials.
The air in your home is laden with moisture from cooking, laundry, bathing, the respiration
of plants and animals and the evaporation from plumbing fixtures. Water vapor is a serious
concern during the winter months when the home is generally closed up tight. At that time,
the water vapor generated in the home typically migrates up into the attic since the ceiling
vapor barrier is rarely 100% perfect. Without proper ventilation, this excess moisture will
remain in the attic, condense, and cause damage. As warm moist air meets the colder air
along the inside of the roof deck, condensation will form. This condensation may eventually
lead to rotting wood in the attic and may also drip onto the insulation and reduce its
effectiveness. Ice damming occurs as the warm moist air raises the temperature of the snow
on the roof and melts it. The water then runs down the roof where it re-freezes as it reaches
the colder area at the eaves.
Roof vents come in different
shapes and sizes. Never mix
different type of vents on the
same roof.
If your attic is under-vented, your roof rafters or trusses, roof deck and shingles are
invaded by the moisture. This will reduce the life of the asphalt shingles. To minimize these
problems, it is important to have proper ventilation. Remember, good venting involves
both intake and exhaust. The intake must be at the eaves and the exhaust must be at or near
the ridge. The venting must be balanced with approximately 50% at the intake or eaves and
50% at the ridge.
With proper ventilation, air will circulate freely under the roof deck and carry away water
vapor before it can condense. One of the best methods is a combination of continuous
eaves and ridge vents that together provide uniform natural draft ventilation from the
bottom to the top of the attic space. Louvre and vent openings should not be covered
during the winter. Eaves or soffit vents should not be blocked by insulation.
25
PART 11
Ventilation
There are several venting products on the market today that work well at the ridge of the
roof. Ask your local distributor for more information.
When determining the need for additional vents, the minimum specification underlined in
building codes for net free ventilation area, that is, the area permitting unrestricted airflow,
of 0.1 m2 for 14 m2 (1 ft2 for 150 ft2) of attic floor space is recommended. When vents
are located at eaves or soffits and near the roof’s peak or along the ridge for maximum net
airflow, the net free vent area may be reduced to a minimum 0.1 m2 for 28 m2 (1 ft2 for
300 ft2) for a balanced system, ventilation should be equal at the undereave and at or near
the ridgeline. One square foot of net free area for every one hundred and fifty square feet of
insulated ceiling area is required for low sloped roofs. The net free area is usually stamped
right on the vent by the manufacturer.
Proper ventilation.
Improper ventilation.
summer
winter
under-eave
or
soffit ventilation
For new roof vents, a hole should be cut the same size as the vent hole. Ideally you should
center a 1 m by 1 m (3' by 3') section of one of our IKO’s Ice & Water Protectors over the
new vent hole.
Cut away any ice and water protector now covering up the hole. Shingle up to the bottom
of the vent opening, and remove any shingle material that may be covering the hole.
Apply plastic cement around the edges and nail the vent securely in place.
Continue shingling, cutting to fit around the vent. Each cut shingle should be laid in a bead
of cement. A dab of asphalt plastic cement over the exposed nails is recommended to avoid
leakage.
Several manufacturers now supply specialized ridge vents. To use these vents, install shingle
courses up the roof to the ridge so that the ridge caps will cover the sealing strip on both
faces of the roof at the ridge. Cut away the roof decking to reveal 25 mm (1") of space on
both sides of the ridge joist. At both ends of the ridge, apply ridge cap shingles as already
outlined, to cover at least 300 mm (12") of the ridge.
26
Flashings
PART 12
For rigid ridge vents, center the ridge vent over the ridge, and overlap the installed ridge
cap shingles so that the nails and sealing strip are covered. Nail to the deck using the nailing
marks supplied by the vent manufacturer.
For rapid ridge vents, measure length of ridge and cut fabric to size. Center vent over slot
on one end with nail lines upwards and fasten with two nails. Roll out along entire ridge,
pull out slack, and fasten with two nails at opposite end.
Beginning from the end of the ridge opposite the direction of the prevailing winds, apply
ridge cap shingles over the ridge vent, exposing each piece in the same manner as before.
Nail the caps to the ridge vent following the nailing guide on the vent, as provided by the
vent manufacturer.
Part 12
Flashings
Roof planes that butt against vertical walls at the end of the shingle course are protected by
metal step flashing at least 125 mm high and 125 mm wide (5" high and 5" wide). When
applying the new shingles, each shingle course will be covered by a step flashing.
There are two simple rules to follow:
•
Each flashing should overlap the one below by at least 75 mm (3"), but not be
visible below the shingle top lap
•
Imbed each step flashing in a 75 mm (3") wide application of asphaltic plastic
cement, and nail in place. Then the end of each shingle overlapping a step flashing
must also be well embedded in plastic cement.
Flashing installation.
27
PART 12
Flashings
The metal step flashing shingles are rectangular in shape and style, approximately 250 mm
(10") long and at least 50 mm (2") wider than the face of the shingle being used. For
instance, when using metal flashing shingles with a typical 143 mm (5 ⅝") exposure, the size
of the flashing will be 250 mm x 200 mm (10" x 8"). The 250 mm (10") length is bent in half
so that 125 mm (5") will reach up the wall surface and the other 125 mm (5") will extend
onto the roof deck. Note: Other step flashing sizes are also acceptable.
To install the flashing shingle on the first course, place it over the end of the starter strip.
Place it so the tab of the end shingle covers it completely. Secure the horizontal flange to the
roof deck using two nails. Do not fasten the flashing shingle to the vertical wall. This will
allow the flashing shingle to move with any expansion and contraction that may occur with
the roof deck. Place the second step flashing shingle over the end shingle in the first course
by positioning it 143 mm (5 ⅝") above the bottom edge of the exposed asphalt shingle.
Make sure that the tab of the shingle in the second course will cover it completely. Secure
the horizontal flange to the roof. The second and succeeding courses will follow with the
end shingles flashed as in preceding courses.
Chimney flashings are secured to the roof over top of the shingles and counter or cap
flashings are secured to the chimney, providing a waterproof seal.
28
Flashing at front and side of chimney
Application of corner flashing at rear of chimney
Application of flashing over cricket
Application of flashing over ridge of cricket
Flashings
Application of counter flashing at side and rear of
chimney
PART 12
Application of counter flashing
For pipe flashings around soil stacks, shingle up to the bottom of the stack. Apply plastic
cement around the edges, and then slide the new flashing over the soil pipe and into place.
Nails used to secure flashings to the roof should be used sparingly, not be drive close to the
pipe, and where recommended by the manufacturer.
Continue shingling, cutting to fit around the stack. Each cut shingle should be laid in a
bead of cement. A dab of plastic cement over the exposed nails is recommended to avoid
leakage.
Application of shingle over
vent pipe.
Application of flange.
29
PART 13
Hips and Ridges
Application of shingles
around flashing.
Part 13
Hips and Ridges
Apply shingles up to a hip or ridge from both sides of the roof before finishing the
intersection.
Note that IKO’s Pro 4 Roofing System recommends that along with IKO’s shingles,
accessory items be utilized to ensure roof performs to its maximum capacity. Hip and Ridge
cap shingles are a recommended component to the multi-layered system.
25 mm
(1")
To apply the ridge shingles, bend
each shingle along the centerline
130 mm
(5 ⅛")
so that it will extend an equal
distance on each side of the hip
146 mm
(5 ¾")
or ridge.
Hip & Ridge 12 Ridge Cap Shingles are specially made ridge cap shingles that are
lightweight and perforated to give you 3 pieces, each 300 mm (12") wide. The shingles
are easy to separate, even at the site of application! Hip & Ridge 12 are fiberglass asphalt
shingles equipped with an SBS modified adhesive sealant for maximum wind protection.
Prior to application in cold weather, storing the shingles in a heated area will allow for
easier bending.
30
Hips and Ridges
PART 13
Ridge cap shingles may be applied in a traditional “single” dimensional thickness and
appearance. To obtain a three-dimensional effect, (which is recommended, but not
required), apply hip and ridge shingles double thickness by stacking 2 pieces on top of one
another, the lower piece extending about 19 mm (¾") further than the top piece.
•
Separate Hip & Ridge 12 shingles into thirds, using the perforation marks as a
guide.
•
These shingles are designed for a 130 mm (5 ⅛") exposure. (For a neater
appearance, the top of each side of each piece can be trimmed on a 25 mm (1")
taper.)
•
Bend each piece over the hip or ridge, and nail 130 mm (5 ⅛") above the butt edge,
25 mm (1") in from each edge, exposing each piece 130 mm (5 ⅛").
•
Apply hip pieces starting at the lower end of the hip, working up toward the ridge.
On hip roofs, apply ridge pieces starting at each end, meeting in the middle. On
gable roofs, apply ridge pieces starting at the end opposite to the prevailing wind
direction and continue to the other end.
The final shingle should be set in cement, and the exposed nail heads of the final shingle
should be covered with cement.
Ultra HP™ Hip & Ridge shingles are specially constructed ridge cap shingles designed to
provide a high-quality, high-profile alternative to using cut-up shingles to protect this
important area.
Apply the shingles with an 210 mm (8 ¼") exposure (even with notch), beginning at the
bottom of the hip, or from the end of the ridge opposite the direction of the prevailing
winds. Form the shingle to the roof deck prior to nailing. For steeper roofs, it may be
necessary to push down slightly on the sides of the shingle. Use two nails, one on each side
of the shingle, located 19 mm (¾") back from the shingle notch. In high wind areas, seal
down each IKO UltraHP™ shingle with two 25 mm (1") spots of asphalt plastic cement. For
added roof definition, IKO UltraHP™ may also be installed at gable and rake edges.
Several manufacturers now supply specialized ridge vents. To use these vents, install shingle
courses up the roof to the ridge so that the ridge caps will cover the sealing strip on both
faces of the roof at the ridge.
Cut away the roof decking to reveal the appropriate space based on vent manufacturer’s
specifications. At both ends of the ridge, apply ridge caps as already outlined, to cover
at least 300 mm (12") of the ridge. Center the ridge vent over the ridge, and overlap the
installed ridge caps so that the nails and sealing strip are covered. Nail to the deck using the
nailing marks supplied by the vent manufacturer. Nails should be a minimum of 50 mm (2")
to ensure penetration through vent, shingle and into roof deck.
31
PART 14
Beginning from the end of the ridge opposite the direction of the prevailing winds, apply ridge
caps over the ridge vent, exposing each piece in the same manner as before. Nail the caps to
the ridge vent following the nailing guide on the vent, as provided by the vent manufacturer.
Part 14
Before leaving the job, it is necessary to clean up all debris from the
roof, valleys and gutters.
Remove the protective tarps you laid down earlier to easily get rid of old shingles, wrappers,
granules and nails. It’s recommended you flush out eavestroughs to ensure unobstructed
water flow, and to give your job a professional finish. The use of a magnetic sweeper is
recommended to rid the yard and driveway of nails and metallic debris.
Part 15
Roof Care and Maintenance
Congratulations! We knew you could do it.
While your roof will provide years of protection, there are some aspects of continuing roof
care that you should be aware of to ensure maximum roof performance.
Keep gutters and roof surfaces clear of all debris. This will allow water to flow freely off the
roof. Keep trees trimmed to prevent damage from branches scuffing the roof surface.
Make semi-annual inspections of the roof to evaluate its general condition in terms of
potential leakage problems. The best time for this in the spring and fall after the severe
weather conditions have passed.
Inspect the underside of the roof deck from the attic to detect leaks. Flashings are the most
vulnerable points. Water stains will be evident if there has been some leakage or severe
condensation.
Part 16
Products
IKO manufactures a full line of asphalt roofing shingles. These shingles feature fiberglass
mats, and are available in several popular styles in a variety of colors.
Now that you’ve seen how easy it is to re-roof your home, it’s time to
select the shingle that will exactly meet your requirements.
32
Products
PART 16
We make one of the finest 3-Tab shingles on the market: Time-tested and true, IKO
Traditional 3-Tab shingles are one of our most popular shingle designs. The traditional
3-Tab design shingle gets its name from the three tabs incorporated into its profile.
IKO Traditional 3-Tab shingles, the Marathon Series, are available in a wide variety of
colors and available with Limited Warranty lengths of 30, 25 or 20 years and Limited Wind
Warranty coverage up to 60 miles per hour or 97 kilometers per hour.
Traditional 3-Tab shingle
For dimensional thickness and strength, choose IKO laminated
architectural shingles
IKO Crowne Slate, with its hybrid, two-piece construction is coated
with our own IKO-SBS modified asphalt which makes these shingles
extremely durable and impact-resistant, with a UL2218 Class 4 Rating.
Their dimensional thickness and profile evokes the beautiful contours
and natural appearance of slate tiles. Plus, we’ve embedded ceramiccoated copper granules into the top layer, making the roof algae
resistant. This premium fiberglass-based shingle comes with a Limited
Lifetime Warranty and features a Limited Algae-Resistance Warranty.
Armourshake Laminated Designer shingles provide a dimensional
thickness that enhances the rough-hewn, random-cut appearance,
texture and profile of classic wood shakes and feature an algae resistant
system with a Limited Algae-Resistance Warranty. Featuring a UL2218
Class 4 Rating, this premium fiberglass-based shingle comes with a
Limited Lifetime Warranty.
Although Royal Estate can be installed as simply and easily as a standard
laminated shingle, it offers a remarkable slate-like appearance. This
shingle is distinguished by a uniquely synchronized manufacturing
process which results in distinctly colored tabs. Along with a Limited
Lifetime Warranty, this shingle is offered in rich hues of Harvest Slate,
Mountain Slate, Shadow Slate and Taupe Slate.
33
PART 16
Products
Grandeur stands up to the competition just as effectively as it does the
weather. Most roofing shingles will provide quality protection against
the simpler elements of nature, such as wind, rain, snow and average
temperatures. IKO’s Grandeur shingles, with a Limited Lifetime
Warranty, are designed to withstand Mother Nature’s forces with its
superior UL2218 Class 4 impact resistance rating. Engineered to last and
built to perform, providing superior resistance against thermal cycling
and high winds. Grandeur shingles offer the added protection of algae
resistant granules to keep the roof looking beautiful, even in regions of
heavy rainfall and high humidity.
The IKO Cambridge shingles are laminated to provide a remarkable
dimensional thickness, not only for strength, durability and weather
resistance, but also to create an extraordinarily beautiful look to your
home. These premium fiberglass shingles are offered with a Limited
Lifetime Warranty in a wide array of unique and striking colors. IKO
Cambridge shingles are also available with an algae resistant system with
a Limited Algae-Resistance Warranty.
All IKO shingles are quality manufactured to IKO’s rigid specifications, using only the
highest quality raw materials.
IKO also offers a selection of roofing accessories, which include our Ice & Water Protection;
GoldShield, ArmourGard and StormShield, Hip & Ridge products, Roof-Fast, various felts
and synthetic underlayment and Leading Edge Plus Starter strips.
To aid in your shingle and color selection, you can also use the IKO RoofViewerTM
interactive shingle selector tool, available on-line and on CD.
IKO ROOFViewer™ is an interactive tool
which allows the customer to easily select a
shingle style and color to co-ordinate with
brick or siding and trim. It’s an easy way of
finding out how your house will look with
a particular shingle.
34
To ensure complete satisfaction, please make your final color selection
from several full size shingles and view a sample of the product
installed on a home.
Products
PART 16
Please note product availability varies by plant. For additional information on IKO’s full
line of superior roofing products, talk to your IKO dealer, visit the website at www.iko.com,
or contact United States 1-888-IKO-Roof, Eastern Canada 1-888-766-2468 or Western
Canada 1-800-661-1034.
Thank you for considering IKO Roofing Products.
35
GLOSSARY
Glossary
Algae Discoloration: A type of black roof discoloration caused by algae. Sometimes referred
to as fungus growth.
Asphalt: A bituminous waterproofing agent applied to roofing materials during
manufacture.
Asphalt Plastic Cement: An asphalt-based cement used to bond roofing materials. Also
known as flashing cement or mastic; typically conforms to ASTM D 4586 (Asbestos Free) or
CGSB 37-GP-5MA.
Backsurfacing: Fine mineral matter applied to the back side of shingles to keep them from
sticking together. IKO uses backsurfacing materials such as talc, dolomite and mineral fines.
Blisters: Bubbles that may appear on the surface of asphalt roofing after installation.
Bridging: A method of re-roofing with larger-sized shingles.
Bundle: A package of shingles.
Butt Edge: The lower edge of the shingle tabs.
Caulk: To fill a joint with mastic or asphalt cement to prevent leaks.
Chalk Line: A line made on the roof by snapping a taut string or cord dusted with chalk.
Used for alignment purposes.
Closed Cut Valley: A method of valley treatment in which shingles from one side of the
valley extend across the valley while shingles from the other side are trimmed 50 mm (2")
from the valley centerline. The valley flashing is not exposed.
Counter Flashing: That portion of the flashing attached to a vertical surface to prevent
water from migrating behind the base flashing.
Course: A row of shingles or roll roofing running the length of the roof.
Coverage: Amount of weather protection provided by the roofing material. Depends on the
number of layers of material between the exposed surface of the roofing and the deck; i.e.,
single coverage, double coverage, etc.
Cricket: A peaked saddle construction at the back of a chimney to prevent the accumulation
of snow and ice, and to deflect water around the chimney.
Cut-out: The open portions of a strip shingle between the tabs.
Deck: The wooden surface, installed over the supporting framing members, to which the
roofing is applied.
Drip Edge: A non-corrosive, non-staining material used along the eaves and rakes to allow
water run-off to drip clear of underlying construction.
Eaves: The horizontal, lower edge of a sloped roof.
Exposure: That portion of the roofing exposed to the weather after installation. For
example, the exposure of IKO’s Cambridge shingles is 149 mm (5 ⅞").
Fiberglass Mat: An asphalt roofing base material manufactured from glass fibers.
36

GLOSSARY
Flashing: Pieces of metal or roll roofing used to prevent seepage of water into a building
around any intersection or projection in a roof such as vent pipes, chimneys, adjoining
walls, dormers, and valleys. Galvanized metal flashing should be minimum 28-gauge.
Granules: Ceramic-coated colored crushed rock that is applied to the exposed surface of
asphalt roofing products. IKO makes its own granules at our Madoc, Ontario, and Ashcroft,
British Columbia granule plants. Granules protect the asphalt coating from the sun’s rays,
add color to the product and enhance fire resistance.
Gutter: The trough that channels water from the eaves to the downspout. Also known as an
eavestrough.
Hip: The inclined external angle formed by the intersection of two sloping roof planes. Runs
from the ridge to the eaves.
Hip Shingles: Shingles used to cover the inclined external angle formed by the intersection
of two sloping roof planes. IKO makes specific Hip and Ridge, Hip & Ridge 12 and
UltraHPTM shingles for this pourpose.
Ice Dam: Condition formed at the lower roof edge by the thawing and re-freezing of melted
snow on the overhang. Can force water up and under shingles, causing leaks.
Laminated Shingles: Strip shingles containing more than one layer of tabs to create extra
thickness. Also called three-dimensional shingles or architectural shingles. IKO’s Crowne
Slate, Grandeur, Cambridge, Royal Estate and Armourshake are all laminated shingles.
Low Slope Application: Method of installing asphalt shingles on roof slopes 2:12 (9.5°) 4:12 (18.4°).
Mansard Roof: A type of roof containing two sloping planes of different pitch on each of
four sides. The lower plane has a much steeper pitch than the upper, often approaching
vertical. Contains no gables.
Mineral-Surfaced Roofing: Asphalt shingles and rolled roofing that are covered with
granules.
Nesting: A method of re-roofing with new asphalt shingles over old shingles in which the
top edge of the new shingle is butted against the bottom edge of the existing shingle tab.
Offset: The distance between the edge of one shingle course and the edge of the next
successive shingle course.
Open Valley: Method of valley construction in which shingles on both sides of the valley are
trimmed along a chalk line snapped on each side of the valley. Shingles do not extend across
the valley. Valley flashing is exposed.
Racking: Roofing application method in which shingle courses are applied vertically up the
roof rather than across and up. Typically, this is not a recommended procedure.
Rake: The inclined edge of a sloped roof over a wall.
Release Tape: A plastic film strip that is applied to the back of self-sealing shingles. This
strip prevents the shingles from sticking together in the bundles only, and does not need to
be removed for application.
Ridge: The uppermost, horizontal external angle formed by the intersection of two sloping
roof planes.
37
GLOSSARY

Rise: The vertical distance from the eaves line to the ridge.
Run: The horizontal distance from the eaves to a point directly under the ridge. One half
the span.
Self-Adhered Eave and Flashing Membrane: A self-adhering bituminous waterproofing
shingle underlayment designed to protect against water infiltration due to ice dams
and wind-driven rain. IKO offers three ice and water protector products: GoldShield,
ArmourGard and StormShield, which are generally available in various sizes.
Self-Sealing Strip or Spot: Factory-applied adhesive that bonds shingle courses together
when exposed to the heat of the sun after application.
Shading: Slight differences in shingle color that may occur as a result of normal
manufacturing operations.
Slope: The degree of roof incline expressed as the ratio of the rise, in inches, to the run, in
inches. (e.g. 18.5° (4:12) slope)
Soffit: The finished underside of the eaves, which should contain holes or perforations to
provide air intake for attic ventilation.
Starter Strip: Asphalt roofing applied at the eaves that provides protection by filling in the
spaces under the cut-outs and joints of the first course of shingles. IKO’s Leading Edge Plus
is a pre-made starter strip product ideally suited for this application.
Step Flashing: Flashing application method used where a vertical surface meets a sloping
roof plane.
Tab: The exposed portion of strip shingles defined by cut-outs.
Underlayment: Asphalt saturated felt, such as IKO’s AM 15 Asphalt Saturated Felt,
RoofGard-SB or RoofGard-Cool Grey Synthetic Underlayments, used beneath roofing to
provide additional protection for the deck.
Valley: The internal angle formed by the intersection of two sloping roof planes.
Vent: Any outlet for air that protrudes through the roof deck such as a pipe or stack. Any
device installed on the roof, gable or soffit for the purpose of ventilating the underside of the
roof deck.
Woven Valley: Method of valley construction in which shingles from both sides of the valley
extend across the valley and are woven together by overlapping alternate courses as they are
applied. The valley flashing is not exposed.
38
For additional information on IKO’s full line
of superior roofing products, please call:
United States 1-888-IKO-ROOF
Eastern Canada 1-888-766-2468,
Western Canada 1-800-661-1034,
or visit our web site at: www.iko.com
Note: The information in this literature is subject to change
without notice. All values shown are approximate. IKO assumes
no responsibility for errors that may appear in this literature.
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