StarBand Remote Install-v2.6

Transcription

M o b ileI nte rn e t Sa te lli t e. co m
StarBand® Remote Installation
September 2013
© 2004-2013, MobileInternetSatellite.com
MobileInternetSatellite.com
StarBand® Remote Installation
Version 2.6
Table of Contents
StarBand® Remote Installation Guide
Introduction
2
Getting the Cables to the Modem
3
Step 1 – Unpacking the Boxes & Checking the Contents
4
Step 2 – Getting the Pointing Parameters & Programming the Meter
BirDog Alternatives
Getting the Pointing Parameters with the Point Dish Utility
Programming the BirDog or First Strike Meter
5
5
6
7
Step 3 – Assembling the Feed Arm & Setting Polarity to Horizontal
Assembling the Feed Arm
Installing the Alternate Transmitter
Comparing the Two LNB Options
Why Is a TRF Needed?
Changing the Polarity to Horizontal
8
8
10
11
11
12
Step 4 – Assembling the Tripod, Hardware Set, & Offset Adapter
Installing the Stanley Keeper (SK) - (May Be Pre-installed)
Assembling the Hardware Set - (May Be Pre-installed)
Using Your Tripod
Orienting the Tripod and Checking for a Plumb Mast
Attaching the Bubble Level
14
14
15
16
17
18
Step 5 – Putting the Dish Assembly Together
Modifying the Elevation Jack Screw - Replacing the Nut and Bolt With Knobs
Modifying the Elevation Jack Screw
Putting the AZ/EL Skew Cap Mount on the Dish & the Dish on the Mast
Adjusting the Elevation
Adjusting the Skew or Polarization Setting
19
19
20
21
22
23
Step 6 – Attaching the Feed Arm & Adding the Pigtail Cables
Assembling the GCD Adapter - Nova 1500 with Linear Transmitter Only!
24
25
Step 7 – Pointing the Antenna & Checking Your Alignment
Using a Satellite Meter
Connecting to the Modem
Using SkyManage to Point the Dish
26
27
28
29
Step 8 – Checking Your Alignment with CVACS
30
Troubleshooting Hints
Only 3 Lights on Modem ON
Only 1 Light on Modem ON 32
31
32
Table of Contents
i
ii Table of Contents
BJ
Co n s u l
1
Introduction
The objective of this document is to provide some easy guidelines and instructions for
assembling your StarBand satellite system and mobility kit. Of course, you should
always feel free to call, if you have questions.
The following tasks will be described in this document:
Step 1
Unpack your boxes and check the contents.
Step 2
Get the pointing parameters and program the meter.
Step 3
If not done, assemble the feed arm and set the polarity to horizontal.
Step 4
Set up the tripod, offset and hardware set.
Step 5
Put the mount on the dish and the dish on the mast. Set the skew and elevation.
Step 6
Attach feed arm to dish and attach the pigtail cables.
Step 7
Point the dish with a BirDog, First Strike or SkyManage.
Step 8
Check your alignment with CVACS.
Before we look at these steps in detail, let’s first cover a task that should be dealt
with first: getting the cables to the modem. This document will finish with some
troubleshooting hints.
2
Getting the Cables to the Modem
You need to think about how the cables that come from the satellite dish outside will
connect to the satellite modem, which is typically inside.
Shown above is the most common method of solving this problem. Here is a
description of the dish-to-modem path:
1
The short pigtail cables (1) are attached to the LNB at the end of the arm (blue
cable) and to the transmitter (red cable).
2
They connect to the standard 50’ length of coax (3) using barrel connectors (2).
3
The other end of the 50’ length of coax is typically connected to a dual exterior
coax connector (4), which is installed on the side of the RV. Two 1/2” holes are
drilled in the side of the RV for the installation.
4
The short inside cables (5) are connected to the back of the dual exterior coax
connector (4) at one end, and to the modem (6) at the other end.
Although the above describes the most common installation, other approaches are
possible. For example, some mobile users prefer to put the modem and a wireless
router in a basement compartment, thus avoiding the need to drill holes in the RV.
Similarly, the modem and router could be place in a utility trailer, with easy access
for cables. In both possibilities, the user will connect from within the RV via Wi-Fi.
3
Step 1 – Unpacking the Boxes & Checking the Contents
The exact number of boxes and the contents of each box can vary, based upon the
current stock of boxes and from where the different items ship. However, the
complete contents of all boxes will be largely the same, with a couple of exceptions:
• Mobility kit - There will be either no meter, a First Strike meter, or a BirDog meter.
There will be either a liquid-filled lensatic or a Suunto tandem compass.
• Special order or omitted items - Obviously, any additional items ordered or any
items not wanted will affect the complete contents.
Here is the list of items:
• StarBand Satellite System: This includes the modem, dish, feed arm, and dual
coaxial cable.
• Tripod Assembly: Tripod, offset adapter, adapter hardware, and ballast strap.
• Tools: Optional meter, compass, level, CDROM, and setup card.
Note If you receive a very short serial cable (about 5” long), discard it. It is not
used for StarBand services, but is often included in the shipment anyway.
4
Step 2 – Getting the Pointing Parameters & Programming the Meter
There are a couple of things you need to do first, in preparation for assembling your
equipment and setting it up for the first time:
• Getting the Pointing Parameters - You can do this any time, but you should do it
before you begin your setup. Knowing the direction of the satellite (azimuth) and
its elevation will help you pick a good RV site.
• Programming the Meter - If you have a BirDog or First Strike satellite meter, you
will need to program it with the satellite profiles you will be using.
These two things will be described in more detail later.
BirDog Alternatives
Pictured above are the BirDog and First Strike satellite meters.
Another alternative is to use the SkyManage Telemetry page, which provides the
received signal strength. The signal strength display will “go green” when you
point at the satellite.
These things are discussed in more detail later.
5
Getting the Pointing Parameters with the Point Dish Utility
You will use the Point Dish utility to determine the pointing parameters for your
current location, by zip code or longitude and latitude.
Use the following steps and the Point Dish utility, to determine the angle of elevation,
magnetic azimuth, and the skew/polarity settings for your location:
1
Type 121 or 123 in the popup menu field, where the satellite is selected. Hit
Enter. Most assignments for mobile users will be on 121 W.
2
Select and enter either the zip code or the longitude and latitude. Hit Enter.
3
Click Calculate. Write down the values returned.
You will use this information to look for a good line of sight, when you are setting up.
You will set up the tripod, with one leg pointing in the magnetic azimuth direction.
Note You can also use a First Strike meter to get your pointing parameters. But,
you will need to mathematically adjust the azimuth and skew. How to do this is
described in the document called FirstStrikeSatelliteMeter.pdf.
6
Programming the BirDog or First Strike Meter
Your BirDog meter comes pre-programmed for HughesNet. This means that if your
dealer or installer didn’t re-program it, you will need to upload a new configuration file
to your BirDog meter. You must first go to the BirDog web site and select the satellites
you want and then generate and download the configuration file. Then, you need to
upload the file to your BirDog.
Full details about how to program and use your BirDog meter are in the document
called BirDogSatelliteMeter.pdf.
If you have a First Strike meter and it isn’t already programmed for Echostar 9, at
121 W, the following parameters need to be configured:
• L = 121.0 W
• F = 12074
• SR = 21650
• LO = 10750
• LNB = 13
• 22 KHz should be blank
For details, see the document FirstStrikeSatelliteMeter.pdf.
7
Step 3 – Assembling the Feed Arm & Setting Polarity to Horizontal
If your feed arm did not arrive pre-assembled, use the following procedure to
assemble your feed arm. The polarity will be set to horizontal later.
The following tools are needed:
• 1/4” nut driver or common screw driver
• 10 mm wrench
• Philips screwdriver
Unpack the parts:
• The empty arm is packed with the dish.
• The feed horn assembly, the LNB, and the transmitter are usually boxed together.
Assembling the Feed Arm
1
8
Figure A shows the Feed Horn/LNB assembly installed on the arm. Note the two
hex head sheet metal screws near the end of the arm, at the top of this photo and
in Figure B. These screws can be installed either before or after the feedhorn is
attached to the arm.
2
Remove the bolt, washers, and nut from the feed arm end near the two hex head
screws.
3
Slide the Feed Horn/LNB assembly onto the arm so that the slotted tabs on the
radio mount flange mate with the two hex head screws (Figure B). Do not tighten
the hex head screws yet.
4
Place the nut you removed into the nut pocket (Figure C) in the large cast part
that is now covering the bolt hole in the arm and feed the bolt through the hole
in the arm that is on the same side of the arm as the two hex head screws, and
turn the bolt to engage the nut. When the nut is engaged, tighten the bolt. Then
tighten the hex head screws.
Caution Caution! Do not over-tighten the hex head screws. Tighten only until the
resistance changes to where you are confident that they are gripping the casting.
5
Bolt the radio to the radio flange using the 4 Phillips head screws packed in the
box with the radio. Critical: The “O” ring (Figure D) is packed in the bag with
the radio. It must be in place! If the “O” ring is damaged, a hardware store should
be able to provide the same size. While the assembly will work without the “O”
ring, it may take on moisture and cause serious internal damage to the wave
guide and feed horn.
6
The fully assembled unit is shown in the larger photo.
The unit is normally shipped in a vertical transmit/horizontal receive configuration.
Current StarBand assignments are just the reverse: horizontal transmit/vertical
receive. How to change the polarity for horizontal transmit will be covered later.
Note If you have a Nova 1500 account, you might get a 2-watt transmitter and an
extra piece, called the BUC GCD Adapter. The steps for proper assembly of this are
described later in this document, when they are most easily performed.
9
Installing the Alternate Transmitter
Spacenet/StarBand began shipping a new version of the transmitter (ODU). The
new transmitter is interchangeable with previous ODUs. You may get either version
of transmitter for either the 1- or 2-watt transmitters.
The AN7042 is a Dual Mode Compact BUC (Block Up Converter). It is capable of
operating in SkyEdge II networks, as well as previous Spacenet platforms,
including the SkyEdge environment that StarBand uses.
The new transmitter is smaller in size than previous ODUs (see figures above, on
the left). It has a magnetic switch, which is used to change its function from
SkyEdge (or other legacy Spacenet equipment) to SkyEdge II.
This is indicated on the BUC as SE and SEII (see the graphic on the right). You
must use the SE (SkyEdge) setting for StarBand Nova modems.
The switch will normally be in the SE position when shipped, but please check its
position prior to installing. Attempting to bring the modem online with the switch
in the wrong position will not allow it to go online.
Note A comparison between the two different LNB options is covered next.
10
Comparing the Two LNB Options
Some older StarBand equipment used an LNB model that did not have an internal
Transmit Reject Filter (TRF). This meant that an external TRF was required. Later,
they moved to LNB models that included an internal TRF.
In July, 2010, StarBand again began using a model without an internal TRF. The
current model LNB is P/N LN2190. A separate TRF component will be mincluded
with the feedhorn assembly. You could receive either LNB model.
The TRF sits between the LNB and the feed horn assembly, as shown on the right,
above. On the left, you can see an LNB with an internal TRF. This LNB is longer
than the LNB with an external TRF.
Why Is a TRF Needed?
The purpose of the TRF is to prevent the energy coming from the transmitter, from
interfering with the received signal that is down converted by the LNB.
Without a TRF, the modem will often experience problems with losing the SYN
light on their modem, and possibly the Rx light as well.
If you use the longer LNB with an internal TRF and an external TRF, the received
signal can be significantly weakened! In this case, you can simply remove the
external TRF.
11
Changing the Polarity to Horizontal
If you do not receive the feed arm pre-assembled, the feedhorn will be set to vertical
polarity for shipping, because this is how it fits in the box. However, since all current
StarBand assignments on both 121 and 123 are horizontal, it will be necessary to change
the transmit polarity setting from vertical to horizontal.
If your arm was shipped pre-assembled, it will already be set for the correct polarity.
The larger photo above illustrates the polarity, when set to vertical. In the blowup,
you can see the “V” for vertical polarity, lined up with the zero.
Changing the polarity is a two-step process:
Step 1
Loosen the 4 Hex or Phillips screws, using the T-handled hex driver or a
Phillips screw driver. The two red arrows in the picture indicate 2 of the 4
screws.
Step 2
Rotate the LNB/feed horn assembly, to set the polarity.
The large arrow on top indicates that the entire feedhorn assembly should be rotated
90o ... although the arrow shows a counterclockwise rotation, it can be rotated
clockwise instead. The “H” marks are on the shoulders, next to the Hex/Phillips
screws.
12
Changing the Polarity to Horizontal (continued)
The photos above show how it looks after rotating to the “H” position. For a
horizontal setting, either of the H marks can be aligned with the zero.
Note that the LNB turns with the wave guide when setting polarity or when
fine-tuning for cross-pol. This can be seen in the photo, on the right. The LNB,
which was on top, is now off to one side.
Set the feed assembly, or feed arm, aside for now.
13
Step 4 – Assembling the Tripod, Hardware Set, & Offset Adapter
You will now complete the tripod assembly, with the Stanley Keeper, the hardware set,
and the offset adapter. Any of these components might be pre-installed, before shipping.
Installing the Stanley Keeper (SK) - (May Be Pre-installed)
Here are the steps to install the Stanley Keeper (SK) on the tripod, if needed:
14
Step 1
Turn the tripod upside down and place it on a flat work surface.
Step 2
Remove the extended hinge clamp (differs from the other two hinge clamps). If
all three hinge clamps are the extended type (see Figure A), remove all three.
Step 3
If present, remove the swing arm and bell housing/plumb-bob hook. These
parts can be discarded.
Step 4
Put the Stanley Keeper in place, as shown in Figure A.
Step 5
Add a drop of Marine or Plumbing Goop® to each corner (Figures B and
C). Allow to dry for several hours. Apply only at the corners, to keep the SK
from falling when the tripod is turned upright. Replace the extended clamp.
Step 5
OR: If your tripod has three extended hinge clamps, do NOT use Goop.
Simply replace all three extended hinge clamps.
Assembling the Hardware Set - (May Be Pre-installed)
Here are the steps to assemble the hardware set, if needed:
Step 1
Stand tripod upright, with one leg pointing approximately in the azimuth
direction.
Step 2
Put a full-sized 1/2” hex nut and lock washer (spring type is fine here) on
the eye bolt and insert the eye-bolt from below the tripod head (Figures A
and B).
Step 3
Use a slight upward pressure to hold the eye-bolt in place with one hand.
(Figure B).
Step 4
Make sure that there is about 3/4” -1” of threads showing above the tripod
head (Figure B).
Step 5
Add an inside star lock-washer and the thinner 1/2” hex nut (skinny jam nut)
to the upper end of the eye bolt (Figure C) and finger-tighten.
Note In most cases, it is critical that you use a skinny jam nut at this point or the
nut will interfere with the proper seating of your offset adapter, preventing your
tripod and adapter from working properly.
15
Assembling the Hardware Set (continued)
Step 6
Using a 3/4” open end wrench on the lower nut, maintain a slight upward
pressure. Simultaneously, use a box end, long socket, or open end wrench
on the upper nut and tighten as tight as you practically can. (Figure D)
Important Avoid putting downward pressure on the SK during this process.
Using Your Tripod
Your attaching hardware is now ready for use. There should be no reason to have
to loosen these nuts again, unless you want to change the length of threaded end that
protrudes above the tripod head. Some choose to also leave the last two steps below
assembled:
16
Step 7
Add a shim of some kind. A mylar disk, show above, is usually included.
This will keep your offset adapter and tripod head from galling (Figure E).
Step 8
Add your offset and secure with a washer and nut or a knob (Figure F).
Orienting the Tripod and Checking for a Plumb Mast
It is recommended that the front leg of the tripod be aligned with the azimuth direction,
as shown above. Use your compass to align the front leg with the desired azimuth. The
offset adapter will also be aligned with the azimuth, but extending in the opposite
direction, midway between the two rear legs.
You should plumb the mast at this point. Starting with a plumb mast generally
results in a much easier pointing process. If you are preparing to install a bubble
level (see next page), it should be installed on as plumb a mast as possible.
You can plumb the mast with a mast level, as shown above. Check along the
azimuth angle and at 90 degrees to it.
This is the best way to assure a plumb mast!
17
Attaching the Bubble Level
Attaching a T-level to the offset adapter, when the mast of the adapter is plumb,
provides an easy way to erect your tripod with a plumb mast.
Here are the steps to follow, to attach and calibrate a T-level to your mast adapter:
Step 1
Use the method described earlier, to plumb the mast of your offset adapter.
Step 2
Use Clear Liquid Nails or something similar, to attach the bubble level to
the center channel of the adapter, as shown above.
Step 3
To calibrate the level, build up the surface where the level attaches, so that
with your mast already plumb, the bubble level shows “Level” in both
directions.
Step 4
Allow this to dry overnight, before continuing.
Note The T-level may become out-of-calibration with a plumb mast over time. If
you install a bubble level, make sure you periodically check the mast plumbness
with a mast level, when the bubble level indicates plumb.
18
Step 5 – Putting the Dish Assembly Together
There are a few substeps, in putting the dish assembly together. The first two steps
will only be done once, when you first receive your equipment:
1
Modify the elevation jack screw and add the elevation knobs.
2
Attach the mount to the back of the dish.
3
Put the dish on the offset adapter mast on top of the tripod.
4
Set the elevation and the skew.
The front tripod leg should be pointed in the azimuth direction.
Modifying the Elevation Jack Screw - Replacing the Nut and Bolt With Knobs
If you are not assembling a new system, but are repairing a broken elevation jack
screw, you should first remove the AZ/EL Skew Cap Mount from the back of the
dish. In this case, you will also need an 8 mm nylock nut.
Put the mount on a flat surface.
For a new assembly, remove the 8 mm nut and set it aside for later use. Replace the
nut with one of the two small knobs (female knob), as shown above on the left. Put
the male knob on the other side, after removing the bolt, as shown on the right.
19
Modifying the Elevation Jack Screw
There is a potential problem with the jack screw or elevation adjuster. Although it
is rare, with repeated use the jack screw can come out of the nylon ball. This makes
it unusable for adjusting the elevation.
It is recommended that the following modification be done:
20
1
Remove the two Phillips screws that hold the nylon ball retaining plate and
remove the retaining plate.
2
Remove the long jack screw and nylon ball assembly.
3
Thread the 8 mm nylock nut onto the jack screw. Thread all the way up to the
nylon ball and reinstall it as it was removed.
4
Apply small amount of white grease if available. You can see the finished
modification in this photo.
Putting the AZ/EL Skew Cap Mount on the Dish & the Dish on the Mast
Attach the AZ/EL Skew Cap Mount assembly to the back of the dish, with the
included hardware (4 each: bolt, nut, clip and lock washer).
Install just the reflector/AZ/EL Skew Cap Mount assembly onto the mast, at this
time. The Rx-Tx feed assembly will be added later.
Tighten the clamp bolts on the mount assembly, as indicated in the center above.
Align the reflector/AZ/EL skew cap mount, mast, and the front tripod leg to the
azimuth, as illustrated in the graphic, on the right.
The Phase III dish which comes with the Nova may have either the Phase II AZ/EL skew
cap mount or the Phase III design. The newer design includes an azimuth fine-tuning
adjustment feature, which isn’t really needed with tripod setups. With a tripod-mounted
dish, the entire antenna assembly is swiveled on the tripod, to achieve fine-tuning of the
azimuth.
21
Adjusting the Elevation
Use the following steps to adjust the angle of elevation, to the recommended value
plus one to two degrees. Refer to the figure above, for the location of each
adjustment:
Step 1
Loosen the elevation lock bolts one-half turn. These bolts are located in the
curved slot on each side of the AZ/EL Skew Cap Mount.
Step 2
Loosen the pivot bolts a quarter turn. The pivot bolts are also located on
each side of the AZ/EL Skew Cap Mount.
Step 3
Now, turn the elevation adjustment bolt clockwise, to decrease elevation.
Turn the bolt counterclockwise, to increase elevation.
Step 4
Align the edge of the bracket with the appropriate elevation mark on the
AZ/EL housing.
Note Remember to add 1 to 2 degrees or more, to the recommended elevation
setting provided by the Point Dish tool. Once you have peaked your signal, note the
variation in this adjustment, from the elevation given by Point Dish. This will be
helpful in future setups.
22
Adjusting the Skew or Polarization Setting
The skew or polarization is probably the most critical setting. It is this setting that
should be validated via the CVACS cross-pol test, after each move. In this step, you will
adjust the setting, per the Skew/Polarization value provided by the Point Dish or other
utility.
Complete the following steps, to set the skew. Refer to the figure above, for the
location of these adjustments:
Step 1
Loosen the four skew locking bolts, until they are just finger-tight. These
bolts are located on the AZ/EL skew cap mount, where the mount is attached
to the antenna.
Step 2
Rotate the AZ/EL skew cap mount, to align the indicator mark with the
correct number on the skew scale. The scale is marked in two-degree
increments.
Step 3
Tighten the skew locking bolts. Don't over tighten.
Later, CVACS will be used to check the alignment. If your settings do not meet the
criteria, the skew can be fine-tuned, with the help of CVACS, as discussed later.
Remember! Skew markings are in 2o increments.
23
Step 6 – Attaching the Feed Arm & Adding the Pigtail Cables
The elevation and skew settings were made earlier, because it is easier to make the
adjustments, without the Rx-Tx feed assembly (aka feed arm) attached.
Use the following steps to attach the feed arm, as shown in the figure above:
Step 1
Insert the feed support arm into the notch on the bottom of the reflector and
put the large bolt into the hole in the end of the arm. Feed the bolt from
behind the dish.
Step 2
Secure the feed arm to the dish with either a large knob or a nut.
Step 3
Attach the short pigtail cables to the feed arm. The cable with blue tape is
for the receive side and should be connected to the LNB. The cable with red
tape should be connected to the transmitter. If you use a BirDog or First
Strike meter, you will connect it to the blue cable.
Step 4
You should now check plumb on the mast again. The weight of the feed arm
will frequently change the plumb.
Warning Don't over tighten ... And, don’t forget to add ballast and then check
plumb yet again!
24
Assembling the GCD Adapter - Nova 1500 with Linear Transmitter Only!
A BUC (Block Up-Converter) takes the L-band input from the modem and
transmits it upstream to the satellite on Ku band. The BUC is sometimes referred to
as the TXB (Transmission Block) or simply, the transmitter.
BUCs are rated according to their output power. A Nova 500 or 1000 system will
include a 1-watt transmitter; a Nova 1500 system will include a 2-watt transmitter.
StarBand sometimes includes a linear 2-watt transmitter, which requires a GCD
(gain control device) adapter.
The GCD adapter is just an extra item that goes inline, between the transmitter and
the modem, as shown above.
Add it to your feed arm assembly as follows:
1
Connect the short cable that is in the box with the BUC adapter to the transmitter
and to the side of the BUC adapter that is labeled "BUC". This is circled in the
photo of the BUC GCD Adapter (lower right) The arrow points to the transmitter.
2
Connect the short pigtail cable with red tape to the other side of the BUC adapter.
The longer pigtail with blue tape connects to the LNB.
3
Connect the long coax cables to the two pigtails, with barrel connectors.
If you don’t have the linear transmitter shown above, this page does not apply.
25
Step 7 – Pointing the Antenna & Checking Your Alignment
The antenna will be aligned towards 121 W or 123 W, by monitoring the received
signal with a signal strength meter or with SkyManage, while slight changes in
elevation are made and the antenna is slowly rotated through the azimuth.
Here is a brief description of a process that can be used to properly point the antenna
to Echostar 9 at 121 W or to Galaxy 18 at 123 W. Please see the user guide, for
details on this process:
1
2
26
Rotate the antenna assembly through the azimuth, starting way off to the west
and rotating towards the east (counter-clockwise, from behind the dish).
If the StarBand® satellite cannot be located, increase (or decrease) the elevation
by one degree and again move the antenna through the azimuth.
3
Continue increasing or decreasing the elevation in one degree increments,
followed by a slow sweep through the azimuth, until the satellite is found.
4
Once the satellite has been located, continue adjusting the antenna in azimuth
and elevation, to obtain the maximum received signal strength.
5
In the future, it may be necessary to also adjust for Adjacent Satellite
Interference (ASI), by moving the reflector slightly to the east or to the west,
depending on where the closest neighboring satellite is located.
Using a Satellite Meter
Use a fully charged BirDog or First Strike satellite meter. Attach the pigtail cable
from the Rx point (LNB) on the Rx-Tx Feed Assembly to the connector marked
Input on the BirDog.
The First Strike connector is not labeled, but you should connect the pigtail cable to
the connector on the right, as you view the meter from the front. Use a barrel
connector, as shown above.
If you have a BirDog meter, when you point at the selected satellite, you will be
alerted by beeps and the display will change from Searching to Found. You will
then know you have located the satellite!
With the First Strike meter, the meter will display LOCKED, when you point at the
satellite.
27
Connecting to the Modem
After you peak the signal, you must connect the coaxial cables between the antenna and
the modem. The illustration above shows the location of all cables. Always make sure
the modem is powered OFF, before you connect or disconnect the coaxial cables.
• Attach the Tx or transmit cable from the connector marked RF-OUT on the
modem, to the Tx connection point, on the Rx-Tx feed assembly.
• Attach the Rx or receive cable, from the connector on the modem marked RF-IN,
to the LNB.
• Turn on the modem or reconnect the power cable. There is no On/Off switch on
the Nova modem.
How to use SkyManage to find the satellite and peak the satellite is covered next.
28
Using SkyManage to Point the Dish
If you will be using SkyManage to find and peak the satellite signal, you will need to
hook up the cables as described earlier, before you can begin the pointing process.
Once the cables are connected and power applied, you can monitor the received signal:
Step 1
Open Internet Explorer and type 192.168.1.1 in the address bar, as shown
above. Make sure you do NOT have a proxy set and the modem is configured.
Step 2
If necessary, click on the Status link at the top of the SkyManage page and
then click on Telemetry on the left.
Step 3
The dish can be adjusted while you monitor the Rx signal EbN0 display.
Some prefer to take their laptop out to the dish to monitor the received signal
as they point the dish. Others use Walkie-Talkies: one person watches the
SkyManage display and relays the status (red or green) and the signal level
to the other person, who is adjusting the dish.
Note There will be no green displayed until you are pointed well enough to lock
onto the received satellite signal. After you lock the signal, you should continue to
adjust the azimuth and elevation, until you have the largest possible EbN0 value.
29
Step 8 – Checking Your Alignment with CVACS
CVACS will be used to validate and fine-tune the co-pol and cross-pol. Adjacent
Satellite Interference (ASI) may also need to be adjusted in the future. Low co-pol
means your transmitter could be too weak to transmit in a heavy storm. High cross-pol
means you’re creating interference on the transponder. This robs bandwidth from
everyone and should be corrected. High ASI means you are causing interference on a
neighboring satellite.
The CVACS menu structure is shown in the figure above. Option 3 is ONLY taken
once, to commission the modem. Then you will use Option 2, shown in red above:
Main Menu Option 2 => Alignment Menu Option 1: Alignment Check.
The co-pol and cross-pol alignment values will be recited, along with an indication
of whether or not they meet the criteria.
If any of the measured values do not meet the criteria, the message will tell you which
one does NOT meet criteria. You will then need to adjust further, until it does.
When your setup meets the criteria, you are done ... enjoy your connection!
If you have not already done so, you should plan on reviewing the materials and taking the
certification exams, so you will be able to use the CVACS system.
For more details about this task, see Chapter 2 in the user guide.
30
Troubleshooting Hints
There are some things that are much more frequently the cause of an inability to get
online. Here are some of the most common causes:
• Cables & connectors - A problem with the cables and/or connectors is by far the
most common cause of not being able to get online. Double-check your cable
path, from the dish to the modem. Make sure there are no loose or corroded
connections. Also verify you haven’t crossed any of the cables.
Do the cable test: Take the short cables off both ends. Use a single longer piece
of cable from the dish to the modem, going through a window or the door. Note
any change. Next, reverse the transmit and receive cables. If there is no change
in the symptoms, cables are not the problem.
• Polarity setting - Make sure the transmit polarity is properly set to horizontal, if
you are assigned to Echostar 9/121 W. Current assignments on Galaxy 18/123 W
also use horizontal transmit polarity.
• Satellite parameters - Double-check the results from Point Dish or Satellite
Finder and compare them to the elevation and skew settings on the back of the
dish. Take a compass reading from a location several feet away from your tripod
setup and make sure the azimuth setting of the tripod and dish are consistent.
31
Only 3 Lights on Modem ON
Here are some things to check out when there are only 3 lights on:
• There is a switch on some transmitters, with SE and SE2 as the settings. It must
be set to the SE position.
• A bad transmit cable can allow 3 lights, but not the Online light.
• A short LNB, without an external TRF will not get the fourth light.
• If a VSAT is put into ASI restriction, the workgroup is reconfigured via the
satellite to workgroup 258. If the modem was offline and didn't get the
configuration change, the modem will not be able to go online. In this situation,
just reconfigure the workgroup to 258. Then, fix the ASI problem and call tech
support to have them verify you should be taken out of the restricted group.
• A linear transmitter needs a GCD and will only have 3 lights without it.
• If the VSAT ID was used before, it may be mapped to a different MAC address.
This prevents the modem from authenticating and it will not go online. When this
happens, tech support needs to "clear the MAC" and "reset the IP".
Note: If the VSAT ID was just (re)assigned, it may not show up as a MAC
conflict until the next day ... after the midnight database update/network
propagation.
• If a modem has a transmission block on it, the Online light will not come on.
Only 1 Light on Modem ON
Things to check out when there is only 1 light on:
• Not pointed at the satellite
• Cable/connector problems
• Interference from external source (generators, large bodies of water, radar
detectors, power lines)
• Bad power brick
• Bad modem
• Bad LNB - This can result in Power light only or in no lights on.
32

StarBand Remote Install-v2.6

Transcription

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