de les illes columbretes - Camping Playa Tropicana

de les illes
columbretes
English version
Parc Natural de les Illes Columbretes
[email protected]
Planetario de Castellón
Paseo Marítimo, 1
12100 Grau de Castelló (Castelló)
Tel. 964 28 89 12 (Castelló)
http://parquesnaturales.gva.es
Assistance from:
Printing this material has been possible thanks to the Cooperation Agreement
signed on 21st April 2006 by the Caja de Ahorros y Pensiones de Barcelona, "la Caixa"
and the Generalitat Valenciana (Autonomous Community Authority) for Undertaking
the Integral Management Plan for Conservation of the Natural Systems of the
Valencian Community’s Network of Nature Reserves.
Layout:
Benjamín Albiach Galán
Kun.Xusa Beltrán
Photography:
Benjamín Albiach Galán
Eva Mestre
Diego K. Kersting
J. J. Rico
Map Design:
Pau Pérez Puigcerver
source: ICV (Cartographic Institute of Valencia)
Texts:
Environmental educacion team
Printed:
Legal Deposit:
Centro Especial de Empleo, IVADIS
Date of Nature Reserve declaration:
25th January1988
Date of PRUG approval:
7th June 1994
Date requalification of Natural Reserve:
27th December 1994
Municipalities:
Castelló de la Plana
The Columbretes islands are a little archipelago
just over fifty kilometres off the coast of
Castellón. These are four groups of islets, given
the name of the largest of each of these: l’Illa
Grossa, La Ferrera, La Foradada and El Carallot.
The highest point is sixty-seven metres, at the
northern end of the Illa Grossa, known as monte
Colibre.
Their volcanic origin, the isolation in which different species of animals and plants live, the small
size and the tough environmental conditions
make the islands a unique and particularly weak
ecosystem. The seabed and waters are characterised by their outstanding beauty, richness and
degree of conservation.
The 19 hectares emerging surface area of the
Columbretes islands (fourteen of which belong to
the Illa Grossa), in the municipal area of Castellón
de la Plana, were protected by the Generalitat
Valenciana in 1988 by giving them the status of
“nature park”. This concept was reclassified as
nature reserve in the Valencian Community’s Law
on natural spaces of 1994.
History
The knowledge that we have of human history on the
islands is connected with people’s presence on these. This
history is well-documented from the building of the lighthouse, but relatively unknown in earlier ages.
The first descriptions are to be found in Strabo’s book
Geographica, written in the first century B.C., in which
he talks of the island Ophiusa in clear allusion to the large
number of snakes living on the islets. Two centuries
later, Pliny and Mela again described the islands, now
with the Latin name of Colubraria, from which the present name of Columbretes comes.
We know little about the islands during the period of
Moslem domination and throughout the middle ages,
since no written documents referring to the archipelago
have come down to us. It is from the 16th century that we
again find bibliographic references insisting on the profusion of vipers, to the extent of making them inhabitable.
Archivo del Parc Natural
B. Albaich Galán
Medicago citrina front the beacon in
L'Illa Grossa
Columbretes's cemetery. Years 50
In 1856, under Isabel II’s reign, the work on the lighthouse started and went on until 1860. This building
brought the first inhabitants of the islands – lighthouse
keepers –to the islands, living on the archipelago until
1975, a year in which the lighthouse was finally automated. Since their stays here were lengthy, many decided to
take their families with them, so that the Illa Grossa
became a sort of little village with a few inhabitants, and
the lighthouse bore silent witness to births and deaths
here. Apart from the lighthouse, this period left us with
a cemetery, the barracks where the wardens live today,
an image of the Virgen del Carmen and remains of gardens, pulley wheels and stone stairways down to the sea.
During its history these islands have regularly been visited by sailors, pirates, scientists, soldiers and above all
fishermen seeking the haven of the natural port of the
Illa Grossa, or smugglers who used these to hide their
goods in places such as the cave known as “Cueva del
Tabaco” in Tofiño port until the guards blew it up!
One of the sailors who visited these islands was
archduke Ludwig Von Salvator, who wrote the
monograph Columbretes published in Prague in
1895. In 1823, Captain W. H. Smyth, later to
become an admiral, wrote detailed studies of the
archipelago, which were published in The Journal
of the Royal Geographical Society of London in 1831
and two years later in the “Carta Esférica de la
Costa de España desde el cabo de Gata hasta el de
Oropesa”.
From the late nineteen-seventies until 1982 the
United States and Spanish air forces and navies
used the area for military exercises. The impact of
the bombs, the affluence of uncontrolled visitors
and overfishing all threatened the natural land and
sea resources. All of this led to the much-needed
protection of the archipelago.
B. Albaich Galán
B. Albaich Galán
Virgen del Carmen in the Illa Grossa with the
Ferrera to the bottom
Detail of a type of Columbretes's volcanic rock
Geology
During the quaternary era a number of underwater
volcanic emissions reached the surface of the water
to form a new archipelago. The volcanic activity of
the Columbretes is associated with a subduction
zone where the ocean’s crust is gradually being
worn away. This means that that the volcanic field of
the Columbretes could be considered as being permanently active, but there is no reference to the
later eruptions which gave rise to the islands.
The Columbretes islands rest on an extensive volcanic field forty metres long and about fifteen wide.
They are located on a continental platform zone
close to the slope, at a depth of sixty or seventy
metres, though to the east this quickly drops to
depths of a thousand metres. This started to be
formed ten million years ago with underwater emissions of a greenish-grey coloured phonolitic magma.
Tightly welded and compacted reddish coloured
clinkers were deposited on these, and on top of
these small glassy coulees of very dark phonolites
about fifty centimetres thick settled.
A million years ago the period of volcanic eruptions
started, characterised by more basic magmas
(basanites) in underwater discharges. The bestpreserved volcanoes of this sort are the Illa Grossa,
Senyoreta, Mascarat and Mancolibre. The volcano
of the Illa Grossa was built in four stages. The first
two involved very violent underwater explosions,
with fragments being hurled long distances. After
the withdrawal of the sea from the crater zone, a
further episode generated pyroclastic materials
(lapilli) and bombs of varying sizes. These are very
dark materials located in certain areas of the Illa
Grossa, Mascarat and Senyoreta. The crater zone
was again flooded by the sea and there was a new
volcanic period, characterised by pyroclastic
deposits, particularly significant in the barracks
zone.
Typical forms due to the erosion
in Columbretes's volcanic rock
B. Albiach Galán
The materials forming the islands are mainly basanites- basic volcanic rocks characterised by the presence of pyroxene and olivine (from one million to
three hundred thousand years)- and phonolytes, volcanic rocks of the Miocene era, from eight to ten
million years of age, characterised by the plentiful
feldspars and feldsparoids.
Vegetation
Apart from the extreme conditions, the species also
had to survive years of human pressure after the
lighthouse was built here. The ones that withstood
this now find excellent conditions to develop in. The
perennial plants grow little by little covering the soil
and preventing other species from germinating. The
annual plants appear on zones of open ground, taking advantage of the scanty rain to flourish and disperse their seeds quickly. Other species such as the
lentisc (Pistacia lentiscus) had to be reintroduced by
the wardens when the area started to be protected.
Although many species must have come to the
islets over their long history, few have managed to
withstand the tough weather conditions of the
archipelago. In the small area emerging from the
water there are other conditioning factors such as
the aridity, the scanty soil, the storms, great insolation and high salinity to which the plants living
here are adapted. This may help us to understand
why there is no native tree species on the islands.
Apart from the implicit isolation and the volcanic
nature of the archipelago there has been a very
important phenomenon found here: the appearance of new species.
Some of the plants deserving mention are two
endemic ones: types of sweet alyssum (Lobularia
Maritime Lobularia ssp columbretensis, endemism
exclusive of Columbretes
B. Albiach Galán
B. Albiach Galán
Medicago citrina, endemism of restricted area
B. Albiach Galán
B. Albiach Galán
Podarcis atrata
Lavatera mauritanica
Fauna
maritima ssp. columbretensis) and the moon trefoil
or tree medic (Medicago citrina) perfectly adapted
to the tough environmental conditions. But the
predominant plant is shrubby seablite (Suaeda vera)
which covers the Illa Grossa in particular. Other
interesting plants are the sea carrot (Daucus carota
ssp. Commutatus), sea fennel (Crithmum maritimum), sea orach (Atriplex halimus), tree mallow
and Moroccan mallow (Lavatera arborea and
Lavatera mauritanica), the wild asparagus
(Asparagus horridus), a thorny shrub called Lycium
intrincatum and the pauquy (Withania frutescens).
There are two flora microreserves on the archipelago, one on La Ferrera island and the other on
the Foradada.
The origin of both the flora and fauna on the
Columbretes islands can be sought in the part the
Castellón coast closest to these, although the presence of some species suggests a direct relationship
with the Balearic islands.
The speciation phenomenon is clear in the land animals of the Columbretes since these are deprived of
the dispersion mechanisms assuring them any
genetic flow with other populations. In all there are
at least ten species of insects exclusive to the archipelago, mostly tenebrionid beetles such as Alphasida
bonacherai or Tentyria pazi. You can also find a
species of endemic snail, Trochoidea molinae. But
one of the most emblematic animals on the islands
is without a doubt the Columbretes islands lizard
(Podarcis atrata), which has four isolated populations
on different islands. This lizard is particularly plentiful on the Illa Grossa, where the absence of enemies
has made these trusting and easy to see. To prevent
overpopulation they have developed self-control
mechanisms, particularly the high rate of cannibalism by the adults, which often eat eggs and young.
Another animal deserving mention in view of its plentiful presence is the yellow scorpion - Buthus occitanus –which the inhabitants of the islands have
learned to live with.
Some prominent ones are the common chiffchaff
(Phylloscopus collybita), the spotted flycatcher
(Muscicapa striata), European serin (Serinus serinus),
blue-headed wagtail (Motacilla flava), Sardinian and
Subalpine warblers (Sylvia melanocephala and Sylvia
cantillans), the thrush (Turdus philomenos), whimbrel
(Numenius phaeopus), marsh harrier (Circus aeruginosus) and the osprey (Pandion haliaetus).
All of this has led to the archipelago being declared
a zone of special protection for birds (ZEPA).
The legendary snakes which gave their name to the
islands disappeared over a century ago and although
a specimen of viper supposedly belonging to the
Columbretes is kept in the Natural Science Museum
in Madrid we cannot be sure that this type of snake
really lived on the archipelago.
Eleonora’s falcon (Falco eleonorae)
J. J. Rico
Special mention should be given to the birds, as the
importance of the islands to some species was an
essential reason for their protection. The sea birds
which have chosen the volcanic cliffs of the
Columbretes as a breeding zone should be stressed.
Six species regularly breed here: Audouin’s gull
(Larus audouinii), the shag (Phalacrocorax aristotelis),
Cory’s Shearwater (Calonectris diomedea), the yellow-legged gull (Larus cachinnans), the storm petrel
(Hydrobates pelagicus) and Eleonora’s falcon (Falco
eleonorae). The peregrine falcon (Falco peregrinus)
occasionally settles here too. The Columbretes are
also important for the large numbers of migratory
birds that use these islets as a place of rest on their
long journeys, with over two hundred and thirty different species being identified through the year.
Marine environment
There are three prominent habitats on the infralittoral level of the Columbretes : the meadows of the
seagrass phanerogam Cymodocea nodosa, highly
important due to these forming shelter, feeding and
breeding zones for an infinite number of sea organisms; the maerl seabed, consisting of limestone
algae, which cover extensive zones in Columbretes
and the rocky seabed, where the spiny lobster
(Palinurus elephas) lives, and where one can at great
depths find populations of red gorgonian
(Paramuricea clavata) unique in the Mediterranean.
One can only be surprised at the large number of
fish in Columbretes as groupers (Epinephelus guaza)
and meagre (Sciaena umbra) and their passivity in
the presence of humans, due to fishing restrictions.
The seaweed wealth of the Columbretes seabed is
also a sign of the quality of the waters and protection of the medium.
In the proximity of the islands one can also enjoy
the presence of bottle-nosed dolphins (Tursiops
truncatus), barracuda (Sphyraena sphyraena) or
ocean sunfish (Mola mola). One can occasionally
see large cetaceae such as the common fin whale
(Balaenoptera physalus).
The sea bed possesses a great
diversity of species
Diego K. Kersting
The 4400 ha of marine surface area protected
with the status of Marine Reserve from 19th April
1990 are managed by the Ministry of Farming,
Fishing and Food.
beacon
E 1:9.000
cave
information centre
monument
Punta de Tramuntana
o Bonica
Cap del
Rossi
heliport
67,5
L’Illa Grossa
Cova del Mal Pas
Cova del Tabac
-40
Casernas
-20
Escala
del Rossí
El Mancolibre
E: 1/35.000
Puerto Tofiño
0
500
1.000 m
Trenca Timons
29,3
23,2
La Senyoreta
35,8
Piedra Joaquín
El Mascarat
cementery
Escala d’Espanya
43,4
la Virgen del
Carmen
Escala del Congre
E 1:12.000
Islote
Espinosa
45
-40
E 1:12.000
100 m
-20
La Foradada
o Ferrer
23,5
55,4
Islote Bauzá
37,2
Islote Lobo
o
Foradadeta
44,5
La Ferrera
o Malaspina
el Tall
-60
-40
Islote Méndez
Núñez
Islote Navarrete
100 m
Islote Cerquero
E 1:8.000
0
las Tres Rocas
del Carallot
-2
el Carallot o
Bergantín
0
-2
32,1
100 m
Islote Churruca
Islote Baleato
100 m
Mancolibre
Senyoreta
Mascarat
Virgen del Carmen
cementery
El Carallot
Puerto
Tofiño
La Foradada
B. Albiach Galán
L’Illa Grossa
Panoramic direction SO from the
Information Centre of the Illa Grossa
Routes
1. Visit to the Illa Grossa: route from Tofiño
port to the lighthouse
The fragility of the islands means that it is only possible to visit the Illa Grossa. The route is taken in
small groups of people, always accompanied by
monitors or by the wardens, who give an explanation of the most relevant aspects of the reserve. The
visit is regulated with a maximum daily number of
persons in order to ensure the minimum effect on
the ecosystem, and lasts from one to two hours.
The walk will take us from the stairs and port of the
Illa Grossa to the lighthouse, including the Visitors’
Centre, where there is an exhibition on the human
history and fishing around the Columbretes. During
the trip, and depending on the time of year chosen
for this, you will see numerous sea birds, lizards,
insects and the most representative plants of the
island flora, all in a majestic volcanic landscape.
We recommend taking the following with you:
Enough food and water (the trip takes one day).
Anything required to prevent seasickness and sunburn (the voyage to the islands tends to take from
2 to 3 hours, depending on the boat).
Depending on the season, face mask, snorkel and
flippers.
Eva Mestre
Exhibition of the Columbretes Islands in
the Planetari de Castelló
2. Visit to the Information Centre
The Information Centre for the Nature Reserve of
the Columbretes Islands is located in Castellón
Planetarium. It has an exhibition on the islands and
about the world of fishing. It can work self-guided
with the narration of a fisherman as guiding thread
through the explanation. There is a projections and
lecture room where videos and audiovisual presentations or talks can be given.
The Planetari de Castelló is located in front of Pinar
beach, renowned for the quality of the water, the
sand and for the services that it provides for visitors.
Visitors centre of the Illa Grossa
B. Albiach Galán
Very close to this there is the Grau Pine Spinney, a
large green area with restaurant, games, sport and
leisure facilities, where one can have a meal in a
peaceful setting while enjoying catching sight of the
squirrels or the many birds that live here.
Visits of interest
- The Planetari de Castelló (Planetarium).
Planetarium shows and exhibitions of a scientific
nature. In one of the four exhibition rooms there is
an Information Centre for the Nature Reserve of
the Columbretes Islands.
- Grau de Castelló fishing port. Daily auctioning of
fresh fish.
- Castelló Fine Arts Museum, with its archaeology,
ceramics, painting and sculpture sections.
B. Albiach Galán
- Pinar del Grau Municipal Park. With recreation
areas, restaurant and open air sports zone.
- Castelló Contemporary Art Museum. One of
the references in Spain’s contemporary art circuit.
Group of students in a guided
visit in the islands
- Paratge Natural del Desert de les Palmes. A
coastal mountain range of special interest for its
flora and fauna.
Accommodation
- Prat de Cabanes-Torreblanca Nature Reserve.
An important marsh in a well-preserved area of the
Castellón coastline.
Camping is not allowed on the islands but you can
stay nearby on board yachts, properly anchored.
As regards the coast, there is a wide offer of
accommodation both in the Grau de Castellón and
in Benicasim.
- Serra d’Espadà Nature Reserve. A mountain
range of great geological, fauna and botanical
importance.
-
Serra d’Irta Nature Reserve. One of the last
unspoilt coastal zones in the Valencian Community.
Information and tourism office in Castelló:
Plaza María Agustina nº 5. Tel. 964 358 688.
Cuisine
Neither cooking nor eating on the island are
allowed, and we thus advise you to take ready to
eat food and have this on board. As for the coast,
there is a promenade with plenty of restaurants in
Grau de Castellón where you can enjoy regional and
international cooking.
B. Albiach Galán
Carallot or Bergantín
How to get here
Information Centre on the Columbretes
Islands Nature Reserve. Planetari de Castelló.
Paseo Marítimo s/n. Grau de Castelló.
E-mail: [email protected]
To go to the islands. At the Information Centre they
will let you know how to hire one of the private
boats that take trips to the islands. You can also go in
boats of your own.
Rules
Do not leave the marked
paths to take short cuts
No camping in the
nature reserve
No picking flowers and
plants
Do not bother or catch
any animals
Do not drop litter in the reserve.
Use the wastebaskets of the boat
It is strictly forbidden to
light fires
Please do not make
noise