Kingpins Show, Netherlands

Newsletter
14 May 2014
www.denimclubindia.org
Events
Kingpins Show,
Netherlands
Denim Industry Who’s Who
Mr. Atul Kumar Singh, Ashima Group, India
Pg No. 3
Mr. Rajan Udeshi, Reliance Industries Limited, India
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14
Denim Club : Your Window To The World Of Denim
Apparel - Collection
SS 2015 Denim
Collection launched by
Mafatlal Industries Ltd.
Mafatlal Industries
Ltd., the flagship
company of Arvind
Mafatlal Group has
launched its “Spring Summer ‘15 Denim
Collection” featuring authentic construction and
representation of “vintage” and “fresh” looks.
The denim fabric range consists of Stretch,
Super Stretch, Bi-Stretch and Rigid fabrics
ranging from 7.5 oz. to 12 oz in weight, and a
wide palette of indigo shades, classic to novel
with innovative finishes, representing future
trends.
The SS 15 Denim Collection comprises of –
— Joggers Denim - A range of Stretch
and Super Stretch, light denim fabrics
used in sports and activity wear
— Black Denim - Hues of Greys, Blacks
and Deep Blacks which are the rage
in Europe
— Print Mania - Fashionable denims
with speciality weaves and prints for
casual or party wear
— Total Blue - Traditional, Vintage look
fabrics for Mens wear
— Comfort Stretch - Caters to the semiformal look for Smart Office wear
MIL is a producer of value added and fashion
denims for the mid and upper segments across
India and worldwide and monitors global fashion
trend and consumer preferences, developing
denim fabrics on these trends.
Mafatlal Denim has been present on the Indian
denim firmament for over 15 years and has over
250 different varieties of specialty denims, which
include mercerized and stretch denims, coated
fabrics and organic denims. The denim product
range comprises of ring denims, stretch denims
and super stretch denims specially for women as
well as coated denims in a variety of colors. MIL
offers 30 color shades in denim. The denim
fabric weights range from 7 oz. to 15 oz., making
them suitable for men’s, women’s and children’s
wear collections.
Mafatlal denim has an extensive international
and domestic marker distribution network
catering to global brands like Jack & Jones,
Wrangler, Lee, and C&A and leading domestic
brands like Killer, Mufti, Spykar and Allen Solly.
Mafatlal Denim Limited merged with Mafatlal
Industries Limited last year.
Mr. Rajiv Dayal, Managing Director MIL has said
that the denim manufacturing unit is situated at
Navsari in Gujarat. MIL has recently increased
its production capacity from 20 million meters to
25 million meters and it plans to increase the
production capacity to 30 million meters by 2015.
Mr. Rajiv Dayal further stated that overall Indian
production of denim fabrics is approx 800 Million
Meters per Annum. Out of this, India’s export
stands at around 200 MMA and the balance 600
MMA is consumed by the domestic market.
Indian denim fabrics market is growing at a rate
of about 8 to 12% compounded per annum.
Source : Businesswireindia.com
Website : www.mafatlaldenim.com
May 2014
03
Denim Club : Your Window To The World Of Denim
Apparel - Corporate
Kishore Biyani to acquire
Spykar for Rs 100 crores
Kishore Biyani's
Future Lifestyle
Fashion Ltd is
buying a 75% stake
in the home-grown
denim company Spykar Lifestyle for around Rs
100 crore in an attempt to shore up its fashion
and lifestyle play.
Other suitors in the
run for Spykar
included private
equity players like
India Value Fund and Everstone Capital, but
dropped out of the race sometime ago.
Avigo, an India focused private equity firm, and
its co-investor Metmin Holdings together hold
60% stake in Spykar, while promoter Prasad
Pabrekar, promoter holds the rest. Agivo and
Metmin had been looking to exit the company for
the past two years. It was first reported in
February last year that Kishore Biyani was a
front runner to snap up the jeanswear brand.
Spykar will be joining Future's current denim
portfolio of Jealous 21 and Bare. Biyani currently
has 35 fashion brands with a combined turnover
of more than Rs 7000 crore. According to
unnamed source, Biyani is also pumping in
additional capital into the company which will
dilute the promoter shareholding.
Mumbai-based Spykar was founded two
decades ago and has a strong distribution
presence across 1,000 multi brand stores
besides its standalone outlets.
Biyani is making a renewed push in fashion retail
after divesting department store chain
Pantaloons as part of a debt revamp strategy. He
plans to make Spykar a Rs 400 crore brand in
the next three to four years from Rs 180 crore
currently.
Future Lifestyle has made a slew of investments
ranging from online startups to taking
operational control in well entrenched homegrown brands. Recently the company took
management and operational control of Mother
Earth, increasing its stake in the Bangalorebased company to 65%. The move will give
Mother Earth the marketing and ramp up muscle
to take on its Delhi-based rival Fabindia.
Biyani will also be taking operational control of
Delhi based Giovani — a suits and jackets and
womens wear brand — that has over 10
operational stores, mainly in the north. This
gives Future Lifestyle a strong foothold in to the
northern markets where Giovani has a strong
client base and distribution network.
Future Lifestyle has also invested in online
fashion accessory startup fashion brand
Peperone and designer label Mineral by
Priyadarshini Rao.
Source: Timesofindia.com
May 2014
04
Denim Club : Your Window To The World Of Denim
Fabric - Innovation
Wool denim fabric debuted
by Woolmark at Blueprint Show
The Woolmark Company will be presenting
Wool Denim fabric at this year's Blueprint trade
and consumer show, being held on May 8 and 9,
at Amsterdam, as part of the larger Amsterdam
Denim Days event.
The world is becoming more casual, largely due
to busy lifestyles, and consumers are looking for
products that can adapt and change with their
everyday needs. The Woolmark Company is
looking at increasing its market share of wool
worn by the emerging segment of consumers
who are experiencing this trend towards
casualisation and engage with this group which
fits into the urban/contemporary category.
Denim is, undoubtedly, one of the most popular
fabrics across the world. While wool and cotton
blend is not a new concept, improved
manufacturing processes and a wider
acceptance of denim apparel in both social and
work places has given wool the opportunity to
have a greater presence in this area. The global
authority on wool will be presenting a 'new' Wool
Denim at Blueprint that uses exactly the same
warp yarn as traditional denim, but replaces
some, or all, of the weft yarns with machinewashable wool to deliver a high-performance
denim fabric.
Previous attempts to create wool/cotton blends
in denim have used an intimate blend of wool
with cotton - two fibres which are not easy to
combine in a yarn. Yet by replacing some, or all,
of the weft yarns with wool, a higher
performance and more cost effective fabric can
be produced.
Wool Denim is
strong and versatile
like regular cotton
denim, but has the
extra resilience,
e l a s t i c i t y, o d o u r
resistance, moisture
management and
most importantly
warmth found in
wool. Wool adds an
extra element of
warmth even in the
coldest of winters
and takes the initial
chill out of putting on regular denim jeans. Wool
Denim fabrics are also finished the same as
traditional denim, so consumers can rest
assured style will not be compromised.
"Wool traditionally has been used in more formal
products," explains The Woolmark Company
Managing Director Stuart McCullough. "So to
enable wool to regain some of its market share
from cotton and take advantage of the trend
towards casualisation, The Woolmark Company
has worked closely with the manufacturing
industry to develop new processes that can
provide unique and casual effects on wool
fabrics.
“By incorporating some wool with the cotton,
Wool Denim jeans feel warm to the touch, even
in winter, and when wet feel drier on the skin and
more comfortable than 100 per cent cotton,
highlighting wool as a fibre for every day."
Source : Fibre2fashion.com
May 2014
05
Denim Club : Your Window To The World Of Denim
Industry - Apparel
The Indian denim industry has been showing
continual growth trends over the years and the
market is only expected to see some exciting
moments ahead
Arvind Singhal, founder, Technopak Advisors,
he expresses “What India needs is more denim
brands. Today, denim wear is going deeper into
the rural markets. Not only men, even teenage
girls in rural areas are opting for denim wear.
This calls for more brands that can cater to the
demand.”
According to a recent study by Technopak
Advisors, the denim market in India is set to
nearly double to over Rs 13,000 crore by 2017.
The boom will be fuelled by not only an
increasing demand from small cities and rural
areas, but also acceptance of the fabric at
workplaces, the study adds. The denim market
is estimated at 300 million pairs of jeans, and is
projected to grow to 550-600 million by 2015,
reveals Technopak.
Levi Strauss India has consolidated and
strengthened its franchisee portfolio in the past
12 months. The company has opened new
flagship stores in key locations, including smaller
cities. “We have bolstered our presence in key
national and regional chain stores through shopin-shops, and extended the availability of our
brand in smaller cities through an entry-level,
price-point range called ‘My First Levi’s’,” says
Sanjay Purohit, MD, Levi Strauss India.
Factors driving the growth
India currently produces 1 billion metres of
denim fabric per annum. The demand is largely
dependent on metros and mini-metros which
contribute to about 50% of the market share in
denim wear. Tier II and III cities contribute only
16% of the market share in denim wear and have
tremendous scope for expansion. Hence, major
brands across India are eyeing this market.
Future designs
Keeping in tune with the times, brands are now
offering innovative products. Wrangler, has
come up with ‘silver shield’ denims, providing
protection from odour-causing bacteria, making
it an ideal companion for long rides. Wrangler is
also offering ‘water-repellent denim’, making it a
comfortable wear while on a holiday or during
trekking.
Rajiv Dayal, MD of Mafatlal Industries, believes
a favourable demographic profile, expansion of
retail in the country, rapid growth in tier II and III
cities, availability of global fashion brands like
Zara, Levi’s and M&S in the country and denim
wear endorsements by Bollywood biggies are
behind the boost in the domestic market. “New
denim product categories like children’s wear,
lifestyle fashion products, formal office wear and
furnishings will also drive the growth,” he
explains.
Anshul Chaturvedi, marketing head, Wrangler
India, says, “Water-repellent denims are not
plastic, but ‘breathable’. We have also launched
abrasion-resistance denims called ‘tough gear’.
As the name suggests, it has four times the
strength of an original denim.”
The Retail Scenario
Kavindra Mishra, CEO, Pepe Jeans India, feels
this is one fabric that will never completely go out
of fashion. “The denim market in India is growing
at a very fast pace, with the market for branded
jeans constituting over Rs. 2,000 crore in the
country. India is growing at the rate of 10-15%
per year,” he adds.
For Kedar Apshankar, COO, Peter England, the
next big thing around denims is ‘sustainability’.
Some of the company’s collections include
‘Workblues’, which come in various shades of
blues; vintage jeans; coloured jeans; ‘oxygeans’,
which save up to 80 litres of water per pair in its
manufacturing; and ‘Misteans’, which is a
washed jeans with a misty and iced look.
Some brands are also focusing on treatments,
distress techniques, coatings and washes of
denims.
Source: Financialexpress.com
May 2014
06
Denim Club : Your Window To The World Of Denim
Apparel - Collection
Jeans have cemented their place in the
American lexicon, wearing them is easy —
making them is a harder task.
With the thought that these pants could often be
overpriced for many customers, Corey Epstein
started a 20Jeans, initially as a e-commerce site
in Los Angeles in 2012. The idea was to offer
quality denim for men at low prices.
“Living in Los Angeles, the denim capital of the
world, we saw great-looking denim all the time,
but we began to wonder why or how premium
denim usually costs $180 or more. As we started
to dig into the process, we soon realized there
had never been a direct-to-consumer premium
denim brand,” said Epstein, the company’s CEO
and Creative Director.
They started with men’s because, they
understood the customer. Now the startup has
grown after spending time learning the fashion
industry, specifically the intricacies of making
denim, the company is rebranding and
expanding.
Rebranding as DSTLD (pronounced “distilled”),
the company will offer ultra-high quality men’s
and women’s jeans.
“As we got deeper into the business, we became
more acquainted with the inner-workings of the
industry. Soon, we were much less interested in
volume, and more interested in exploring higherend options. We wanted to create the most
premiere, quality jean possible,” said Epstein.
“We want to provide comfortable basics that look
crisp, clean, and modern.” he adds.
The jeans range will retail in the price range of
$65 to $105, and be available for purchase
through their e-commerce site.
“Standard retail for this type of product is $300+
from a lot of premium brands. We will focus the
majority of our denim collection in the $65-$85
range, but we will offer a handful of superpremium and limited edition lines.”
“People have become more interested in
sustainable and conscious consumption,” said
Epstein. “This conscious consumer, as we like to
call her, wants fewer, better things from brands
that speak to her stylistically.”
Los Angeles was a perfect place to found a
company like this because it’s a mecca for
denim.
“Honestly we found the denim business because
we were in L.A. Seventy-five percent of the
designer jeans sold in the world are made in Los
Angeles. While a lot of clothing manufacturing
has been shipped offshore, high-end denim
manufacturing stayed in LA. High-end jeans are
complicated — there are different treatments,
washes, distressing and elaborate designs and
L.A. has the most robust infrastructure.”
Source: Forbes.com
Website: www.20jeans.com
May 2014
07
Denim Club : Your Window To The World Of Denim
Industry - Academia
J.Crew has expanded into the premium denim
game with the launch of their new line Point Sur
Denim. Tom Mora, Head of Women's design at
J.Crew, explained their expansion into premium
denim, the name and more. "We're always
looking for those things that excite us, that make
our hearts beat faster, and denim kept coming
up. It felt like the right thing to have this brand
that's part of our company but stands on its own,
its own name," Mora said.
Explaining about Point Sur's origins Mora said
"We're so vested in doing beautiful, classic
things with a twist and denim is a big part of that.
Quality is such an important part of what we dothis is really the premium stuff. We are working
with the best premium cottons from the US, from
Japan, from Italy. It's really using the best of the
best."
The idea is to elevate the successful J.Crew
styles, like the boyfriend jean, to a place that
doesn't have to appeal to everyone and the
collection comprises of:
— The Cropped Jean
— The Slim Stacker Selvedge Jean
A product recall has been
issued by Just Jeans after
high concentrations of a
carcinogenic dye was found
in some of its jeans.
The Australian Competition
and Consumer Commission
(ACCC) tested clothing items for azo dyes after
a tip came from the National Industrial
Chemicals Notification and Assessment
Scheme.
Over 121,000 items were recalled in total approximately 1,500 have been sold in New
Zealand stores.
"The ACCC identified a number of items as
containing unacceptable concentrations of the
hazardous dye," the ACCC said in a statement.
"While consumer exposure to hazardous azo
dyes is likely to be very low, the associated
cancer risks give cause for concern."
Although the dye used is not banned in New
Zealand, but expert authorities have classified
— The Hightower Skinny Jean
— X-Rocker Boyfriend Jean
The Point Sur jeans retail prices range from $198
to $288 compared to J.Crew Denim ranging from
$115 to $168. "We still love our J.Crew denim,
but it definitely reaches a broader audience.
Point Sur is aimed at die-hard denim lovers.
They have played with proportion, with rise, to
make it really unique and special." Mora went on
to say, "Point Sur allows us to speak to the denim
customer-not the J. Crew customer who likes
denim but the customer who is a denim fanatic."
Source : Broadwayworld.com
Website : www.jcrew.com
them as carcinogens and recommend that
exposure be minimised.
The following items have been recalled over dye
risk sold in Just Jeans stores around New
Zealand and online:
— Junior girls jeans size 8 to 16 – dark
purple colour, line: 168462, code: 45223,
date: 05/2013
— Junior girls zip ankle skinny jeans 8 to 16
– dark navy colour, line: 168463, code:
45223, date: 05/2013
— OMM Junior boys pants skinny cargo
pants size 8 to 16 – forest green colour,
line: 168849, code: 45223, date:
05/2013
— OMM Junior boys cargo shorts size 8 to
16 – khaki green colour, line: 168867
Customers who purchased any of the recalled
items should stop wearing the product and return
them to a Just Jeans store for a full refund.
For more information customers can contact
Just Jeans on 0800 444 006 or email
[email protected].
Source : 3news.co.nz
May 2014
08
Denim Club : Your Window To The World Of Denim
From The Denim Directory
Denim Industry Who's Who
Mr. Atul Singh, Director (Technology & Business Development)
Ashima Group, India
Mr. Atul Singh is a B. Tech. (Textile Technology) from V.J.T.I., University of
Bombay. He has experience of over 30 years in the field of Cotton
Textiles.
He started his career with Bombay Dyeing and worked there for nearly a decade, as the
sourcing head for all major raw materials like Cotton, Manmade Fibers & Yarns.
For Last 2 decades Mr. Singh has been associated with Ashima Limited in various capacities
in the areas of their operations like Purchase, Production, and Product Development &
Marketing. Currently he is the Head of Operations and designated as Director (Technology
& Business Development).
M/s Ashima Ltd. is one of the foremost manufacturers of Cotton Fabrics like Denim, Yarn
Dyed Shirtings, Bottom weight & Fusible Interlinings. Almost two-thirds quantity of its
production is exported directly or indirectly to niche brands & retailers of EU, UK & USA.
Mr. Rajen Udeshi, President (Polyester Chain)
Reliance Industries Limited, India
Mr. Rajen Udeshi Rajen graduated in Commerce from Bombay University
and is qualified in Cost Accountancy from Institute of Cost and Works
Accountants of India. During the course of years, he has also attended
various specialized courses in Management organized by INSEAD France, IIM - Bangalore and MIT Sloan - USA.
Mr. Udeshi has an experience of over 30 years and started his journey with Reliance
Industries Limited in 1984. Today he holds position as President Polyester Chain in
Reliance.
Mr. Udeshi is primarily responsible for Petrochemicals Business and has contributed largely
to Reliance to become a global leader in Petrochemicals. In addition, he continues to
shoulder several other corporate responsibilities like mergers and acquisitions in India and
Overseas, expansion and debottlenecking.
He is President – Association of Synthetics Fibre Industry and Director – Recron Malaysia
Sdn. Bhd. He also heads RPCM, Kuantan, Malaysia (erstwhile unit of BPCM).
Mr. Udeshi was honored by the Institutes / publishers as Best speaker of this Industry.
May 2014
09
Denim Club : Your Window To The World Of Denim
Events
Show Report :
Kingpins Show, Netherlands
The first edition of the Kingpins show set the go
for a series of events taking place in the Dutch
capital from May 7-10, 2014. They are all
focused on denim and jeans, and part of the
Amsterdam Denim Days initiative to be held
both at Westergasfabriek and through the city’s
streets and shops, involving both insiders and
consumers (stay tuned on our website for further
reports and updates).
Though final results are not available yet, but the
Kingpins show was very lively and the
atmosphere surrounding it very optimistic,
creative and busy. The event presented 40 top
quality denim, trimming and fiber manufacturers
and finishers, including Bossa Denim, Candiani
Denim, Denim Valley by Royo, Orta Anadolu,
Tavex and Textil Santanderina. Other exhibitors
included Invista, e3 and Martelli Lavorazioni
Tessili and specialized denim and fashion
schools from the Netherlands.
Access to the event was through invitation by
exhibitors and after final approval of the show’s
organization. Most visitors came from the
Netherlands and other Northern European
countries.
The Westergasfabriek, a vintage industrial
circular building, provided a unique atmosphere
as well as the friendly and - somehow - intimate
mood, suiting the denim insiders’ attitude.
The show also included a series of conferences
and events. One of them was the round table
“WTF is Premium Denim?” focused on what’s
next in the future of premium denim and how that
can match the pursuit for top quality products,
exclusivity, environmental issues and a modern
consumer and retail approach. The round table
was attended by Andrew Olah, Founder,
Kingpins, Alberto Candiani, Global Manager of
Candiani Denim, Jason Denham Founder of
Denham, Panos Sofianos Creative Director
Denim Valley by Tejidos Royo and Maria Cristina
by teampeterstigter.com for
Pavarini Senior Features Editor, Sportswear
International.
Jean Hegedus of Invista presented the results of
a new consumer study carried out by Invista,
showcasing how the modern consumer
evaluates jeans. A major result was how young
consumers are no longer considering denim as a
fashion trend, but as a regular component of their
wardrobe. Also interesting was the fact that out of
the 3.000 international consumers interviewed,
the Dutch own the most denims per capita (about
11 pair each).
Another round table dealt with sustainable cotton
and involved Patrick Laine, Chief Executive of
BCI, Naomi Stevens, Global Head of
Acceptance for Seeds at Bayer CropScience
and e3, and Liesl Truscott, Ddirector of Farm
Engagement of Textile Exchange.
Trade show founder Andrew Olah also
announced the dates for follow-up edition of
Kingpins Amsterdam in October (28 to 29), once
again taking place on the grounds of
Westergasfabriek
The October 2014 edition of Kingpins
Amsterdam will also stage the first Global Denim
Awards in collaboration with HTNK, the
Amsterdam-based fashion recruitment and
consultancy firm, and the House of Denim
foundation, a platform for craftsmanship and
innovation in the denim industry. The award
event will be sponsored by e3 cotton and will
involve about 7-8 young talented denim
designers from around the globe who will create
capsule collections in collaboration with global
denim mills. Contestants shall focus on design,
innovation and sustainability and will present
their collections during a catwalk show. A jury of
specialized denim insiders will select and award
the best collections.
Source : Sportswearnet.com
by teampeterstigter.com for
May 2014
10
Denim Club : Your Window To The World Of Denim
Industry - Network
Denim Club Welcomes Recent Members of
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for complete details, visit
www.denimclubindia.org
May 2014
11
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