ProCharger Bracket Installation

ProCharger Bracket Installation
REQUIRED TOOLS
¾” Socket
17mm Socket
5
/16” Allen Wrench (& socket optional)
15mm Open Wrench
¼” Allen Wrench (& socket optional)
Screw Driver/Pry bar
Blue Loctite (Optional but recommended on bolts)
Pre-assemble Main Bracket
1. Install the tensioner on the backside of the bracket (This is the side with the oval
cut into the face of the bracket) with the pulley sticking through the arc at the top.
Secure it with the 2 3/8” x 2.25” socket head cap screws and 3/8” washers.
Torque to 35 ft/lbs.
2. Determine mounting position for the 2.75” idler pulley on the bracket. If using a
pulley 3.85” or smaller on the head unit the ideal position is closest to the
Procharger head unit position, otherwise the farther mounting hole must be used.
a. Place the socket head cap screw so that the threads protrude into the oval
cavity of the bracket.
b. Place an M10 flat washer over the bolt then screw on the M10 nut.
c. Torque to 30 ft/lbs
Installation
1. Release the main accessory belt from the tensioner using a 15mm wrench to rotate
the tensioner clockwise until the belt is loose. Hold in place and slide the belt off
the water pump pulley, leaving the belt wrapped around the lower pulleys.
2. Remove the two alternator bolts and set aside, these will not be re-used. Replace
them with the supplied M10 x 140mm threaded studs.
3. On the top most stud screw on the 2.75” long hex standoff, on the bottom stud
screw on the 2” long hex standoff with the shoulder facing away of the motor.
Torque to 40 ft/lbs. These will be 2 of the 3 mounting points for the main bracket.
Note: If trying to use a stock water pump, or need additional clearance for the bracket assembly,
place a flat washer on the stud before installing the hex standoff. Automatic vehicles likely will
need to either use a different support method for the lines or use the following spacing method:
a. Support brace behind bottom hex standoff
b. 1 Flat washer behind top stand off
c. 1 Flat washer on the top standoff (Easiest between standoff and bracket)
d. 2 Flat washers on each bolt of the Procharger crank pulley (A recess on the back of the
pulley requires an extra washer here.)
Note: This will take care of the spacing to allow the bracket to site parallel to the block, but
verify the belt properly clears the lines when installed.
4. Remove the factory idler pulley retaining bolt and stamped washer setting them
aside.
5. Slide the 1.75” idler pulley over the shoulder on the bottom standoff. Verify
pulley orientation, the bearing-retaining ridge should be facing the front of the
car. Place the .875” x .748” pulley standoff into the back of the idler pulley.
6. Loop the belt over the tensioner pulley then lift the bracket into place over the
standoffs. Use the M10 x 25mm bolt on the top hex standoff and the M10 x
45mm bolt on the bottom hex standoff each with a flat washer to secure the
bracket. Thread the bolts in enough to hold the bracket up, but do not tighten them
down yet.
7. Place the 1.875” round standoff between the bracket and the factory idler pulley
and slide the M10 x 100mm bolt with flat washer through the standoff and thread
the bolt in to keep it in place. Be sure that the top of the belt is over the standoff.
8. Work the belt behind/between the two idler pulleys on the bracket keeping the
above belt routing in mind. The goal is to have a loop above the J portion of the
bracket to wrap around the super charger head unit pulley when it is installed.
9. Tighten the three mounting bolts for the bracket down starting with the bottom
bolt. This should set the two-piece standoff for the bottom pulley properly. Verify
the pulley rotates easily, but lifting the belt off the pulley and turning it by hand.
Torque bolts to 35 ft/lbs.
10. Replace main drive belt using the reverse procedure of step one.
11. Lift the Procharger head unit into place on the bracket looping the belt around the
pulley. While holding the head unit up use the socket head cap screws, 3/8 and
5/16 to secure the supercharger to the bracket. Start with the 3/8 on the end of the
J then add a 5/16 to the 2nd or third smaller hole to allow you to release the head
unit. Use a ¼” Allen wrench to secure the 5/16” screw next to the 1.75” idler
pulley. Use a 5/16” Allen wrench to secure the 3/8” bolt, which is up between the
1.75” and the 2.75” idler pulleys.
NOTE: To ensure belt alignment, verify that the supercharger has the proper shim between
the supercharger pulley and the input shaft. Proper shim width is 0.200” for the 8 rib pulley
(may be two shims with total width of 0.200”)!
12. Make sure the belt is riding properly on the two idler pulleys and wrap the belt
along the bottom of the crank pulley. Slip a 15mm wrench between the power
steering pulley and the tensioner pulley on to the tensioner bolt. Push the wrench
towards the water pump pulley (it may be necessary to place a small pry bar or
screw driver between the tensioner arm and bracket to allow you to reposition the
wrench to push it all the way.) Slip the belt over the top of the crank pulley and
then release the tensioner.
NOTE: Verify the tensioner rides at or above the middle tension mark on the tensioner unit.
If it is too loose a shorter belt may be needed or the 2.75” idler may need to be moved to the
far position if using a supercharger pulley 3.85” or smaller.