Millenary AP Escapement with Deadbeat

Transcription

Millenary AP Escapement with Deadbeat
Instructions for use
Mode d’emploi
Millenary
AP Escapement with
Deadbeat Seconds
Calibre 2905
Hand-wound
ROYAL OAK OFFSHORE
BOUTIQUE EDITION
English
1 Introduction
p 35
The Manufacture Audemars Piguet
2 About calibre 2905
p 39
Table of contents
3 Watch description
English
Innovative architecture
New Audemars Piguet escapement
Dual balance-spring
Deadbeat seconds
Power reserve
p 50
Views of the movement
Movement technical data
Case technical data
Watch indications
4 Basic functions
p 54
Setting the time
Winding the watch
5 Additional comments
32
p 57
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English
The Manufacture
Audemars Piguet
1 Introduction
The Vallée de Joux : cradle of the watchmaker’s art
I
n the heart of the Swiss Jura, around 50 kilometres
north of Geneva, nestles a landscape which
has retained its natural charm to this day : the
Vallée de Joux. Around the mid-18 th century, the harsh
climate of this mountainous region and soil depletion
drove the farming community settled there to seek other
sources of income. With their high degree of manual
dexterity, inexhaustible creativity and enormous
determination, the inhabitants of the valley, known as
Combiers, were naturally drawn to watchmaking.
Due to their high quality, the movements they produced
acquired great popularity with the Geneva firms which
used them to create complete watches.
From 1740 onwards, watchmaking developed into the
principal industry of the Vallée de Joux. This region was
thus transformed, as an 1881 chronicle put it, “ into a
land of milk and honey, in which poverty has rapidly
disappeared ”.
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n 1875, two young men passionate about
Haute Horlogerie - Jules-Louis Audemars and
Edward-August Piguet - decided to pool their skills to
design and produce watches with complications
in the Vallée de Joux, the cradle of Haute
Horlogerie. Determination, imagination and
discipline led them to instant success. A
branch in Geneva was their next move in about
1885 and new commercial links were forged at
the 1889 Paris World Exposition, where they
exhibited complication pocket watches. The
Audemars Piguet factory continued to expand
as the years went by. Its creations represented
major milestones in the history of Haute
Horlogerie, like the first minute repeater
wristwatch in 1892 and the smallest
five-minute repeater movement ever
made in 1915.
From 1918 onwards, the founders passed
the reins of the business onto their sons,
who in turn perfected their expertise
in manufacturing wristwatches for
gentlemen and ladies and designed new
sophisticated, ultra-thin movements. Audemars Piguet
was soon the undisputed specialist in jump hour watches.
Perseverance and initiative were the watchwords ; the Wall
Street crash in 1929 was a bitter blow, but the company
directors were soon designing so-called skeleton watches
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English
I
before embarking on chronograph production. But
this new momentum was abruptly interrupted by the
Second World War. Re-organisation was necessary in the
aftermath of the conflict. The factory focused on
creating top-of-the-range items in keeping with
its tradition of innovation. A strategy that would
prove its worth, especially since it was backed by
outstanding creative daring.
Audemars Piguet continued to build on
its now international reputation with
creative designs. 1972 saw the launch
of the Royal Oak, the first, immediately
successful high-quality sports watch in
steel, followed in 1986 by the first ultrathin tourbillon wristwatch with automatic
winding. The factory’s creative spirit has
not faltered since, offering aesthetically
original timekeepers with outstanding
movements. Thus it brought watches with
complications back into fashion at the end
of the 1980s, launching its extraordinary
Tradition d’Excellence collection in 1999.
In 2006, Audemars Piguet presented the
fifth item (Calibre 2899) in this exclusive series ; oval in
shape (Millenary), it features a linear read-off perpetual
calendar with power-reserve indicator and deadbeat
seconds hand, a new escapement displaying revolutionary
efficiency, no need for lubrication and so much more. All
the signs of a bold spirit rooted firmly in tradition and
auguring well for the future.
1 Introduction
Two names for a great adventure
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The epitome of perfection
T
2 About Calibre 2905
English
he new hand-wound Audemars Piguet Calibre 2905
is an oval-shaped movement comprising 233 parts.
It is derived from the Calibre 2899 movement housed in
Cabinet N° 5 in the Tradition d’Excellence. In addition to
its outstanding technical properties, epitomised by the
Audemars Piguet escapement, it is also distinguished by
the care lavished on the shape and finishing of its
constituent parts. All components are entirely handfinished in the noblest fine watchmaking traditions :
bevelling, rhodium-plating, and, depending on the part,
“côtes de Genève“ and stippling.
This concern for detail is reflected on the back of the
watch. The sapphire crystal enables one to admire the
twin barrels rotating within an extremely contemporary
geometrical stage-setting featuring the ratchets and the
jewelled bearings. A spectacular dance of suns, stars and
satellites, against a backdrop adorned with horizontal
“côtes de Genève“.
In harmony with the standards of fine watchmaking, the
fastening screws with their points of attachment arranged
in a triangular pattern are linked by a circle when their
direction is reversed. To ensure the harmonious visual
appeal of this arrangement, this three-point screw
and circle layout is echoed in the centre of the barrel,
adorned with a radiating motif known as a sunburst effect.
The Millenary with deadbeat seconds is teamed with an
elegant handsewn alligator leather strap with large scales,
fitted with a pink gold AP folding clasp.
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Nonetheless, the main surprise stems from the entirely
open dial with its off-centred displays. The threedimensional design creates attractive
overlapping and depth ef fec t s. This
arresting visual performance is enlivened
by the pulsations of the regulating organ,
the jerking motion of the deadbeat seconds
and the rotation of the two visible barrels,
alternately hiding and revealing the
“Echappement” and “Audemars Piguet”
inscriptions.
True artists at heart, the craftsmen in Le
Brassus have also played with materials
and relief effects to create an extremely
var ied and almost rhy thmical array
of structures and surfaces, including
horizontal “côtes de Genève” on the two
sides of the oval centre plate, fine circular
grooves on the hour and minute dial, and
an original embossed motif on the twin
barrel s. Complet ing this fasc inat ing
picture, the openworked hands and blued
Roman numerals make a perfect match for
this sophisticated technical and metallic
appearance.
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English
To highlight its new escapement, Audemars Piguet has
created a watch featuring an astonishing design with
a highly contemporary architecture that completely
reinvents the aesthetic codes of Haute Horlogerie. This
resolutely daring approach begins with the beautifully
proportioned pink gold oval Millenary case with its
original, elegant and sophisticated shape underscored
by the subtle contrast between the brushed middle and
the polished bezel.
With its regulating organ drawing all eyes to 9 o’clock,
the new Millenary with deadbeat seconds provides a live
lesson in mechanical watchmaking. The star of the show
is of course the new escapement with the sharp edges of
the wheel, its guard-pin and the unusual shape of its ruby
pallet-stones. The escapement platform has in fact been
turned around so as to make the escapement visible from
the dial side, and the plate has been hollowed to reveal
the mechanism. One can thus admire the large variableinertia balance guaranteeing enhanced chronometry,
and the small white gold inertia-blocks enabling fine
adjustment.
2 About Calibre 2905
Innovative architecture
A discerning eye will also note an unusual construction
in terms of the balance-spring. Calibre 2905 features
two balance-springs placed one on top of the other, but
at a 180° angle. This “head-to-tail” flat double balancespring system has several advantages. It does away with
the need for the so-called Breguet overcoils on balancesprings, which are very tricky to build, and thus avoids
the potential inconveniences linked to the slightly
a s y mme t r ic al de v e l opme n t
of t he b al ance - spr ing. It
automatically compensates for
the possible poising flaws of the
balance-springs and it eliminates
imprecisions due to the vertical
position of the watch without
needing to resort to a device as
sophisticated as a tourbillon. All
these distinctive features enable
an extremely fine adjustment of
the sprung balance, which beats at
a frequency of 21,600 vibrations
per hour, resulting in improved
precision.
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No lubrication on the lifts (Dia. 1a and 1b) : the special
geometry of the Audemars Piguet escapement means no
lubrication - a watchmaker’s dream! - which facilitates
maintenance and prevents greasy paste build-up after oil
evaporation.
English
The new Audemars Piguet escapement system takes its
inspiration from the mechanism proposed by Robin.
This direct-impulse escapement has a large number of
advantages, including full shock resistance. Its innovative
design and outstanding performance make this patented
system a minor revolution in watchmaking mechanics.
It heralds the new generation of Audemars Piguet
movements and furthers the performances of the watches
produced by the Manufacture. The new escapement will
shortly be fitted to the brand’s complication movements
and ultimately, in a few years time, to all the Audemars
Piguet mechanical movements.
The new Audemars Piguet system - a world first - has
technical features that far outweigh the traditional
(Swiss-lever) escapement :
Detached pin-pallet escapement : a single impul se
corresponds to two vibrations, causing fewer setting
disturbances and very high efficiency.
2 About Calibre 2905
New Audemars Piguet escapement
Direct impulse on balance (Dia. 2a and 2b) : energy is
transmitted directly from the escapement to the balance
without passing through a lever, which limits energy losses
by improving efficiency.
High efficiency : in a movement w ith a Sw iss-lever
escapement, the escapement absorbs 70% of the energy. The
Audemars Piguet system only absorbs 50%, a considerable
sav ing in ef f ic ienc y compared w ith a tradit ional
movement.
Excellent shock resistance : the meticulous shape of the
various components (especially the guard pin) and their
ultraprecise cut out provide maximum security against
tripping and over-banking.
Optimum long-term stability : tests performed over the last
five years have shown that this escapement has excellent
operational stability.
Stud 1
Balance-spring 1
Collet
Stud 2
Balance-spring 2
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Balance
Inertia blocks
Lever
Escapement
wheel
Improved chronometry : the spring balance isochronism
may be adjusted by moving the locking-point with respect
to the impulse given to the balance ; reducing mechanical
disturbances at the escapement increases movement
accuracy.
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Dual balance-spring
Audemars Piguet escapement
Calibre 2905 also stands out for its totally new regulator
component. Two balance-springs positioned one on top
of the other, offset by 180°, automatically compensate
for any balancing defects.
English
Swiss-lever escapement
Undeniable advantages
The system of dual “opposing” flat balance-springs has many
advantages :
Dia. 1a
Dia. 1b
The need for oiling is eliminated by shortening the sliding
2 About calibre 2905
no more balance-spr ing “end cur ves” or “overcoils”
pioneered by Breguet and Phillips, which require
painstaking construction, and thus an end to defects
caused by the slightly asymmetr ic balance-spr ing
development.
automatic compensation for any balance-spring poising
defects, thus improving accuracy.
elimination of defects linked to the vertical watch position
without recourse to a device as sophisticated as the
tourbillon.
Indirect
impulse
Direct
impulse
Dia. 2a
Dia. 2b
Fewer moving parts in the transmission equals greater efficiency
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Updated design
The traditional deadbeat second hand requires a second
gear train driven by a second barrel. For Calibre 2905, the
Audemars Piguet watchmakers have decided to use new sets
to simplify construction and save as much energy as possible.
They have devised a system consisting of two superimposed
seconds wheels synchronized by a lever : the detached one
moves constantly forward, whereas other with wolf teeth
moves in jerks. Hence this little touch of visual magic and the
impression that the watch is beating the seconds.
Phase I
The lever entry-pallet (or receiving pallet)
is in the hollow of the star wheel and the
seconds hand does not move
English
The small of f-centre dial at 7 o’clock is a technical
exclusivity christened "deadbeat seconds". This independent display with its one-second jump, which does
not disturb the operation of the watch (hence its name),
constitutes a major accomplishment when miniaturized
into a wristwatch.
For the first seconds jump
Phase II
Position of the lever entry-pallet prior to
being triggered ; the seconds hand still
does not move
2 About Calibre 2905
Deadbeat seconds
Phase III
Second hand jump.
The lever exit-pallet (or discharging pallet)
is in the hollow of the wolf-tooth wheel
For the following seconds jump
Phase IV
Repeats phase II
Wolf-tooth wheel
Star wheel
Exit - pallet
Lever
Entry - pallet
Phase V
Repeats phase III
Overview of the deadbeat second function
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Calibre 2905 has a seven-day (168-hour) power reserve.
This endurance is achieved by a large-diameter, dual barrel system developed by Audemars Piguet, with a blocking
mechanism guaranteeing optimum performances.
Tremendous operating accuracy
The blocking system
English
Power reserve
Energy at its best
Position of the hands when
fully rewound
2 About Calibre 2905
The fast-rotat ing, dual barrel system
- w ith revolut ions limited to 19.75 guarantees a constant force during the
seven-day running time, hence improved
ef f iciency and chronometry. In reality
the two barrels fitted in parallel produce
a power reser ve of nine days. But an
ingenious blocking system - in the high
(C-D, see graph opposite) and low (A-B,
see graph opposite) windinglevel zones - concentrates
the watch rate on the seven
1 day
median running days, with 1 day 7 days
the most regular (B-C, see
graph opposite) prov iding
op t imum e f f ic ienc y. T he
19.75 w inding revolut ions
on each barrel - far higher
than standard - are achieved
by using a particularly f ine
spring. This specif ic feature
transmits the energy far more
smoothly and regularly to the wheels, thus ensuring greater
rate accuracy and reliability.
Position of the hands three
days before stopping
Position of the hands
when stopped
A parallel barrel system
Parallel system (AP)
Series-coupled system
• Reduced pressure in the gears
• Friction in the barrels used to cancel out the variations
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Views of the movement
Calibre 2905
Movement technical data
Total thickness : 9.15 mm
Total diameter : 32.90 x 37.90 mm
Fitting diameter : 32 x 37 mm
English
Bridge side
Frequency : 21,600 vibrations/hour (3 Hz)
Number of jewels : 31
3 Watch description
Maximum power reserve of movement : approx. 7 days
Manual winding (approx. 168 turns of the crown)
Audemars Piguet lubrication-free escapement
" KIF Elastor " shock protection system for the
balance
Variable inertia balance
Flat dual balance-springs
Number of separate parts : 233
Dial side
Case technical data
Overall thickness : 15.77 mm
Diameter : 42 x 47 mm
Case water-resistant to : 20 m (2 bar)
Case in 18-carat pink gold
Sapphire caseback
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Watch indications
Hour hand
2
Minute hand
3
Deadbeat seconds hand
3 Watch description
1
English
(see figure on the inside cover)
Your watch is fitted with a two-position
crown :
A Crown in manual winding position
B Crown in time-setting position
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The time may be set without risk by pulling the
crown to position B and turning it clockwise or
anti-clockwise. It is advisable to move past the time
sought (by about five minutes) and then to return to
the correct time.
Your Audemars Piguet mechanical watch is fitted with
a hand-wound movement.
We then advise you to rewind it completely every five
days, and after seven days maximum, by turning the
crown clockwise.
In this way your watch will always remain in its
optimum accuracy zone. A slight loss of accuracy is
possible during the final twelve hours.
The crown is f it ted with a disconnect ing-gear
system to protect the mechanism against damage
to the barrel blocking system such as might occur
if you force it when winding is complete (the crown
turns without gripping).
Caution : This watch is fitted with a direct-impulse
escapement, which can explain the balance stopping
when turning the hands anti-clockwise (backwards).
Simply rotate the case to restart the balance.
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English
Winding the watch
4 Basic functions
Setting the time
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Guarantee and care
5 Additional comments
English
All details concerning the guarantee and care
instructions of your watch are provided in the certificate
of origin and guarantee enclosed.
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