Millenary AP Escapement with Deadbeat
Transcription
Millenary AP Escapement with Deadbeat
Instructions for use Mode d’emploi Millenary AP Escapement with Deadbeat Seconds Calibre 2905 Hand-wound ROYAL OAK OFFSHORE BOUTIQUE EDITION English 1 Introduction p 35 The Manufacture Audemars Piguet 2 About calibre 2905 p 39 Table of contents 3 Watch description English Innovative architecture New Audemars Piguet escapement Dual balance-spring Deadbeat seconds Power reserve p 50 Views of the movement Movement technical data Case technical data Watch indications 4 Basic functions p 54 Setting the time Winding the watch 5 Additional comments 32 p 57 33 English The Manufacture Audemars Piguet 1 Introduction The Vallée de Joux : cradle of the watchmaker’s art I n the heart of the Swiss Jura, around 50 kilometres north of Geneva, nestles a landscape which has retained its natural charm to this day : the Vallée de Joux. Around the mid-18 th century, the harsh climate of this mountainous region and soil depletion drove the farming community settled there to seek other sources of income. With their high degree of manual dexterity, inexhaustible creativity and enormous determination, the inhabitants of the valley, known as Combiers, were naturally drawn to watchmaking. Due to their high quality, the movements they produced acquired great popularity with the Geneva firms which used them to create complete watches. From 1740 onwards, watchmaking developed into the principal industry of the Vallée de Joux. This region was thus transformed, as an 1881 chronicle put it, “ into a land of milk and honey, in which poverty has rapidly disappeared ”. 34 35 n 1875, two young men passionate about Haute Horlogerie - Jules-Louis Audemars and Edward-August Piguet - decided to pool their skills to design and produce watches with complications in the Vallée de Joux, the cradle of Haute Horlogerie. Determination, imagination and discipline led them to instant success. A branch in Geneva was their next move in about 1885 and new commercial links were forged at the 1889 Paris World Exposition, where they exhibited complication pocket watches. The Audemars Piguet factory continued to expand as the years went by. Its creations represented major milestones in the history of Haute Horlogerie, like the first minute repeater wristwatch in 1892 and the smallest five-minute repeater movement ever made in 1915. From 1918 onwards, the founders passed the reins of the business onto their sons, who in turn perfected their expertise in manufacturing wristwatches for gentlemen and ladies and designed new sophisticated, ultra-thin movements. Audemars Piguet was soon the undisputed specialist in jump hour watches. Perseverance and initiative were the watchwords ; the Wall Street crash in 1929 was a bitter blow, but the company directors were soon designing so-called skeleton watches 36 English I before embarking on chronograph production. But this new momentum was abruptly interrupted by the Second World War. Re-organisation was necessary in the aftermath of the conflict. The factory focused on creating top-of-the-range items in keeping with its tradition of innovation. A strategy that would prove its worth, especially since it was backed by outstanding creative daring. Audemars Piguet continued to build on its now international reputation with creative designs. 1972 saw the launch of the Royal Oak, the first, immediately successful high-quality sports watch in steel, followed in 1986 by the first ultrathin tourbillon wristwatch with automatic winding. The factory’s creative spirit has not faltered since, offering aesthetically original timekeepers with outstanding movements. Thus it brought watches with complications back into fashion at the end of the 1980s, launching its extraordinary Tradition d’Excellence collection in 1999. In 2006, Audemars Piguet presented the fifth item (Calibre 2899) in this exclusive series ; oval in shape (Millenary), it features a linear read-off perpetual calendar with power-reserve indicator and deadbeat seconds hand, a new escapement displaying revolutionary efficiency, no need for lubrication and so much more. All the signs of a bold spirit rooted firmly in tradition and auguring well for the future. 1 Introduction Two names for a great adventure 37 The epitome of perfection T 2 About Calibre 2905 English he new hand-wound Audemars Piguet Calibre 2905 is an oval-shaped movement comprising 233 parts. It is derived from the Calibre 2899 movement housed in Cabinet N° 5 in the Tradition d’Excellence. In addition to its outstanding technical properties, epitomised by the Audemars Piguet escapement, it is also distinguished by the care lavished on the shape and finishing of its constituent parts. All components are entirely handfinished in the noblest fine watchmaking traditions : bevelling, rhodium-plating, and, depending on the part, “côtes de Genève“ and stippling. This concern for detail is reflected on the back of the watch. The sapphire crystal enables one to admire the twin barrels rotating within an extremely contemporary geometrical stage-setting featuring the ratchets and the jewelled bearings. A spectacular dance of suns, stars and satellites, against a backdrop adorned with horizontal “côtes de Genève“. In harmony with the standards of fine watchmaking, the fastening screws with their points of attachment arranged in a triangular pattern are linked by a circle when their direction is reversed. To ensure the harmonious visual appeal of this arrangement, this three-point screw and circle layout is echoed in the centre of the barrel, adorned with a radiating motif known as a sunburst effect. The Millenary with deadbeat seconds is teamed with an elegant handsewn alligator leather strap with large scales, fitted with a pink gold AP folding clasp. 38 39 Nonetheless, the main surprise stems from the entirely open dial with its off-centred displays. The threedimensional design creates attractive overlapping and depth ef fec t s. This arresting visual performance is enlivened by the pulsations of the regulating organ, the jerking motion of the deadbeat seconds and the rotation of the two visible barrels, alternately hiding and revealing the “Echappement” and “Audemars Piguet” inscriptions. True artists at heart, the craftsmen in Le Brassus have also played with materials and relief effects to create an extremely var ied and almost rhy thmical array of structures and surfaces, including horizontal “côtes de Genève” on the two sides of the oval centre plate, fine circular grooves on the hour and minute dial, and an original embossed motif on the twin barrel s. Complet ing this fasc inat ing picture, the openworked hands and blued Roman numerals make a perfect match for this sophisticated technical and metallic appearance. 40 English To highlight its new escapement, Audemars Piguet has created a watch featuring an astonishing design with a highly contemporary architecture that completely reinvents the aesthetic codes of Haute Horlogerie. This resolutely daring approach begins with the beautifully proportioned pink gold oval Millenary case with its original, elegant and sophisticated shape underscored by the subtle contrast between the brushed middle and the polished bezel. With its regulating organ drawing all eyes to 9 o’clock, the new Millenary with deadbeat seconds provides a live lesson in mechanical watchmaking. The star of the show is of course the new escapement with the sharp edges of the wheel, its guard-pin and the unusual shape of its ruby pallet-stones. The escapement platform has in fact been turned around so as to make the escapement visible from the dial side, and the plate has been hollowed to reveal the mechanism. One can thus admire the large variableinertia balance guaranteeing enhanced chronometry, and the small white gold inertia-blocks enabling fine adjustment. 2 About Calibre 2905 Innovative architecture A discerning eye will also note an unusual construction in terms of the balance-spring. Calibre 2905 features two balance-springs placed one on top of the other, but at a 180° angle. This “head-to-tail” flat double balancespring system has several advantages. It does away with the need for the so-called Breguet overcoils on balancesprings, which are very tricky to build, and thus avoids the potential inconveniences linked to the slightly a s y mme t r ic al de v e l opme n t of t he b al ance - spr ing. It automatically compensates for the possible poising flaws of the balance-springs and it eliminates imprecisions due to the vertical position of the watch without needing to resort to a device as sophisticated as a tourbillon. All these distinctive features enable an extremely fine adjustment of the sprung balance, which beats at a frequency of 21,600 vibrations per hour, resulting in improved precision. 41 No lubrication on the lifts (Dia. 1a and 1b) : the special geometry of the Audemars Piguet escapement means no lubrication - a watchmaker’s dream! - which facilitates maintenance and prevents greasy paste build-up after oil evaporation. English The new Audemars Piguet escapement system takes its inspiration from the mechanism proposed by Robin. This direct-impulse escapement has a large number of advantages, including full shock resistance. Its innovative design and outstanding performance make this patented system a minor revolution in watchmaking mechanics. It heralds the new generation of Audemars Piguet movements and furthers the performances of the watches produced by the Manufacture. The new escapement will shortly be fitted to the brand’s complication movements and ultimately, in a few years time, to all the Audemars Piguet mechanical movements. The new Audemars Piguet system - a world first - has technical features that far outweigh the traditional (Swiss-lever) escapement : Detached pin-pallet escapement : a single impul se corresponds to two vibrations, causing fewer setting disturbances and very high efficiency. 2 About Calibre 2905 New Audemars Piguet escapement Direct impulse on balance (Dia. 2a and 2b) : energy is transmitted directly from the escapement to the balance without passing through a lever, which limits energy losses by improving efficiency. High efficiency : in a movement w ith a Sw iss-lever escapement, the escapement absorbs 70% of the energy. The Audemars Piguet system only absorbs 50%, a considerable sav ing in ef f ic ienc y compared w ith a tradit ional movement. Excellent shock resistance : the meticulous shape of the various components (especially the guard pin) and their ultraprecise cut out provide maximum security against tripping and over-banking. Optimum long-term stability : tests performed over the last five years have shown that this escapement has excellent operational stability. Stud 1 Balance-spring 1 Collet Stud 2 Balance-spring 2 42 Balance Inertia blocks Lever Escapement wheel Improved chronometry : the spring balance isochronism may be adjusted by moving the locking-point with respect to the impulse given to the balance ; reducing mechanical disturbances at the escapement increases movement accuracy. 43 Dual balance-spring Audemars Piguet escapement Calibre 2905 also stands out for its totally new regulator component. Two balance-springs positioned one on top of the other, offset by 180°, automatically compensate for any balancing defects. English Swiss-lever escapement Undeniable advantages The system of dual “opposing” flat balance-springs has many advantages : Dia. 1a Dia. 1b The need for oiling is eliminated by shortening the sliding 2 About calibre 2905 no more balance-spr ing “end cur ves” or “overcoils” pioneered by Breguet and Phillips, which require painstaking construction, and thus an end to defects caused by the slightly asymmetr ic balance-spr ing development. automatic compensation for any balance-spring poising defects, thus improving accuracy. elimination of defects linked to the vertical watch position without recourse to a device as sophisticated as the tourbillon. Indirect impulse Direct impulse Dia. 2a Dia. 2b Fewer moving parts in the transmission equals greater efficiency 44 45 Updated design The traditional deadbeat second hand requires a second gear train driven by a second barrel. For Calibre 2905, the Audemars Piguet watchmakers have decided to use new sets to simplify construction and save as much energy as possible. They have devised a system consisting of two superimposed seconds wheels synchronized by a lever : the detached one moves constantly forward, whereas other with wolf teeth moves in jerks. Hence this little touch of visual magic and the impression that the watch is beating the seconds. Phase I The lever entry-pallet (or receiving pallet) is in the hollow of the star wheel and the seconds hand does not move English The small of f-centre dial at 7 o’clock is a technical exclusivity christened "deadbeat seconds". This independent display with its one-second jump, which does not disturb the operation of the watch (hence its name), constitutes a major accomplishment when miniaturized into a wristwatch. For the first seconds jump Phase II Position of the lever entry-pallet prior to being triggered ; the seconds hand still does not move 2 About Calibre 2905 Deadbeat seconds Phase III Second hand jump. The lever exit-pallet (or discharging pallet) is in the hollow of the wolf-tooth wheel For the following seconds jump Phase IV Repeats phase II Wolf-tooth wheel Star wheel Exit - pallet Lever Entry - pallet Phase V Repeats phase III Overview of the deadbeat second function 46 47 Calibre 2905 has a seven-day (168-hour) power reserve. This endurance is achieved by a large-diameter, dual barrel system developed by Audemars Piguet, with a blocking mechanism guaranteeing optimum performances. Tremendous operating accuracy The blocking system English Power reserve Energy at its best Position of the hands when fully rewound 2 About Calibre 2905 The fast-rotat ing, dual barrel system - w ith revolut ions limited to 19.75 guarantees a constant force during the seven-day running time, hence improved ef f iciency and chronometry. In reality the two barrels fitted in parallel produce a power reser ve of nine days. But an ingenious blocking system - in the high (C-D, see graph opposite) and low (A-B, see graph opposite) windinglevel zones - concentrates the watch rate on the seven 1 day median running days, with 1 day 7 days the most regular (B-C, see graph opposite) prov iding op t imum e f f ic ienc y. T he 19.75 w inding revolut ions on each barrel - far higher than standard - are achieved by using a particularly f ine spring. This specif ic feature transmits the energy far more smoothly and regularly to the wheels, thus ensuring greater rate accuracy and reliability. Position of the hands three days before stopping Position of the hands when stopped A parallel barrel system Parallel system (AP) Series-coupled system • Reduced pressure in the gears • Friction in the barrels used to cancel out the variations 48 49 Views of the movement Calibre 2905 Movement technical data Total thickness : 9.15 mm Total diameter : 32.90 x 37.90 mm Fitting diameter : 32 x 37 mm English Bridge side Frequency : 21,600 vibrations/hour (3 Hz) Number of jewels : 31 3 Watch description Maximum power reserve of movement : approx. 7 days Manual winding (approx. 168 turns of the crown) Audemars Piguet lubrication-free escapement " KIF Elastor " shock protection system for the balance Variable inertia balance Flat dual balance-springs Number of separate parts : 233 Dial side Case technical data Overall thickness : 15.77 mm Diameter : 42 x 47 mm Case water-resistant to : 20 m (2 bar) Case in 18-carat pink gold Sapphire caseback 50 51 Watch indications Hour hand 2 Minute hand 3 Deadbeat seconds hand 3 Watch description 1 English (see figure on the inside cover) Your watch is fitted with a two-position crown : A Crown in manual winding position B Crown in time-setting position 52 53 The time may be set without risk by pulling the crown to position B and turning it clockwise or anti-clockwise. It is advisable to move past the time sought (by about five minutes) and then to return to the correct time. Your Audemars Piguet mechanical watch is fitted with a hand-wound movement. We then advise you to rewind it completely every five days, and after seven days maximum, by turning the crown clockwise. In this way your watch will always remain in its optimum accuracy zone. A slight loss of accuracy is possible during the final twelve hours. The crown is f it ted with a disconnect ing-gear system to protect the mechanism against damage to the barrel blocking system such as might occur if you force it when winding is complete (the crown turns without gripping). Caution : This watch is fitted with a direct-impulse escapement, which can explain the balance stopping when turning the hands anti-clockwise (backwards). Simply rotate the case to restart the balance. 54 English Winding the watch 4 Basic functions Setting the time 55 Guarantee and care 5 Additional comments English All details concerning the guarantee and care instructions of your watch are provided in the certificate of origin and guarantee enclosed. 56 57
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