B-2 Jewelry And Colored Stones

Transcription

B-2 Jewelry And Colored Stones
B-2. Jewelry and Colored Stones
2
Jewelry and Colored Stones
1. Market Conditions in Japan
(1) Definition of Category
[Jewelry]
Varieties of expressions commonly are used to refer to items of jewelry, terms such as gemstones, jewels,
and personal accessories. This guide employs the definition used within the jewelry industry, namely “personal accessories made from precious metals.” Jewelry includes both pure jewelry of precious metal such as
gold or platinum (also referred to as band), and precious metal jewelry with a precious stone inset. Jewelry is
also classified according to the type of precious metal employed, whether to be gold, platinum or silver.
Jewelry made from two different precious metals, such as gold and platinum, is referred to as combination
jewelry.
[Colored stones]
Only polished colored gemstones. It does not include uncut colored stones or synthetic gemstones. The
three most salient characteristics of gemstones are (1) beauty, (2) durability and (3) rarity. Rubies, sapphires
and emeralds are generally known as precious stones because of their high monetary and decorative value.
Other colored stones are known as semi-precious stones. In fact, though, there is no clear-cut boundary between these two categories, and there is no internationally valid standard for classification. In recent years
among people in the industry, there has been a tendency to abandon the attempt to differentiate precious and
semi-precious stones and simply refer to all such items as “colored stones.” More commonly, they refer to
stones by their specific name, such as ruby, sapphire or emerald.
Classifications and HS numbers in official trade statistics are as follows.
HS Numbers
7113.19-021, -029
7113.11
7113.19-010
7103.91
7103.99
Commodity
Gold jewelry
Silver jewelry
Platinum jewelry
Rubies, sapphires, emeralds (so-called precious stones)
Other colored stones (so-called semi-precious stones)
(2) Market Conditions
The Japanese jewelry market reached an all-time record size of ¥2.528 trillion in 1990 (retail price basis, industry estimate). Nevertheless, after the collapse of the so-called bubble economy, sales of higher-priced jewelry began to decline sharply. The market in recent years is estimated to have shrunk at ¥1.25 trillion. Colored
stones are usually processed and sold with diamonds and precious metals such as gold and platinum in the
jewelry market. Therefore, it is difficult to track market trends for colored stones in isolation from general
trends in jewelry. As the economy is showing a basic tone of recovery these days, it is expected that the jewelry market hit the bottom, and the long-term depression will get over in 2005.
The most frequently purchased type of jewelry item in Japan is rings (including engagement rings and wedding rings), which earlier accounted for 40% of the market on a volume basis, and 60% of the market on a
value basis. Almost all engagement rings were diamond rings, but fashion rings enjoyed steady sales growth,
and these rings made use of many different types of colored stones. However, now that the marriages by the
second generation of the baby-boomers have peaked, it is forecasted that the bridal jewelry’s market size will
continue to decrease in the future due to the decline of both the acquisition ratio and the price per unit of engagement rings.
In the recent jewelry market, young women in their 20s and 30s take a pivotal role. The preferences of young
women differ fundamentally from those of traditional jewelry purchasers. They tend to put more importance
on the styling, the feel, and the ease of coordination of jewelry rather than the price of the gemstones themselves. Nevertheless, the current market trend toward lower prices is not being driven by price consideration
alone. It also reflects a significant change in consumer preferences and young women want jewelry that fit into
their daily fashion look. This pattern of preference appears likely to spread into other age groups as well,
which bring jewelry more and more into the realm of fashion merchandise. As a result, this trend has given
silver jewelry and colored stones in general, and semi-precious stones in particular, a much larger role in the
jewelry market.
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54
B-2. Jewelry and Colored Stones
A recent noteworthy trend in Japan is the growth in “gift for myself” purchasing. The pattern is most prominent among working women in their late 20s and 30s, who feel they want to reward themselves for working
hard by pampering themselves or buying something a little nicer or more expensive than they would ordinarily.
These consumers choose simple yet high-quality jewelry items in the ¥300,000-400,000 class. In “Trilogy”
(arranging 3 pieces of diamond in a line to symbolize the woman’s beauty in the past-present-future) campaign
presented by De Beers’ group’s Diamond Trading Company (DTC) jointly with about 500 jewelry stores in the
nation from September 2003, the advertisement to inspire “purchasing for myself,” meaning that woman purchases a diamond by herself instead of receiving it from man for a present has been extensively exposed and it
has been causing good effects to the whole jewelry market, not only diamond’s.
At the same time, although sales of upscale brand-name products have lost their former momentum, they
have still a strong showing as a whole, holding a stable eminent position in the market. The company with the
highest sales in the Japanese jewelry market is Tiffany & Co. Japan Inc. (USA), followed by Richemont
Group Japan (France; brands of Cartier, Piaget etc.) and Bvlgari Japan (Italy), sometimes called the Big Three
of the jewelry industry. These upscale brands have opened large direct outlets (mega-stores) in prestige locations like Marunouchi and Ginza in central Tokyo, and their stores do brisk customer business. Though there is
still a big gap between the Big Three, the brands other than the Big Three such as Channel (France), Gucci
(Italy) and Folli Follie (Greece) make vigorous efforts and some department stores form the tenant composition without the Big Three to differentiate themselves from others. Some Japanese companies such as
Tsutsumi Jewelry and Cima have also steadily expanded their business by narrowing their targets and working
to enhance customer satisfaction. Thus, differentials between companies are becoming clearer in this shrinking
market.
In the jewelry market of 2004, it is notable that the product proposals are being made one after another by
boldly using new materials never used before for jewelry. Beginning from a jewelry in which a diamond is
incorporated in acrylic (Cartier) and a jewelry with crystal glass placed in stainless (Folli Follie), by freely
using leather, silicon and enamel etc., the trend is that no particular is considered for the fashionable design.
Recently white gold and other so-called white jewelry have been popular as well. Formed by mixing one precious metal with another, white-colored precious metal, the metal mixture brings out a range of coloration that
offers a diversity of design potential, and enhances their value as fashion items. There has also been considerable interest in the functional properties of tourmaline necklaces and bracelets, which are said to promote
health through a negative ion effect. For the trend color symbolizing the summer and autumn of 2005, blue
green of turquoise (Turkey stone) is getting popularity.
Japanese-made jewelry is known for its precise and careful workmanship. Products from other Asian suppliers are known for their low cost and availability, while products from Europe and the United Stated are noted
for their superior design and styling. In addition, Japan mostly uses 18-carat gold for gold jewelry, whereas
other countries use a variety of grades of gold, including 24-carat, 14-carat and 9 carat gold. Characteristics of
principal jewelry production countries/areas are summarized as follows.
Italy
France
Switzerland
Germany
U.S.A.
Hong Kong
Italian jewelry is known for its high fashion appeal and its broad range of classic and modern
styles. Italy also features the most advanced jewelry-making technology, as evident in its
machine-made necklaces.
Most of French jewelry is luxury-grade products with platinum or gold, and it is known for its
high fashion and superior design.
Switzerland is noted for its careful workmanship, which comes from its watch making tradition. Most of its jewelry consists of handmade luxury-grade products.
Germany is known for the simple elegance of its styling and its superior processing technology. Germany makes a wide range of stately luxury-grade products.
The United States is mainly known for wedding rings and other machine-made products,
along with some ultra-luxury-grade handmade name brand products.
Most of Hong Kong’s jewelry products are hand-worked cast metal items. Production is often
assigned to factories in China. Hong Kong has advantages in flexibility and design.
Japan relies on imports for virtually all of its supply of colored stones used in jewelry making. Characteristics of leading production countries are shown below.
Marketing Guide for ASEAN Exporters to Japan
55
B-2. Jewelry and Colored Stones
Thailand is known for the brownish cast to its red rubies and the dark tint of its sapphires.
Thailand also imports large quantities of jade from Myanmar and opals from Australia, which
it then polishes and reworks for export. Thailand devotes considerable resources to development and improvement of processing technologies, and it has achieved noteworthy results.
The central highlands region of Sri Lanka produces high-grade rubies, sapphires, cat’s eye
and alexandrite. These products put Sri Lanka among the elite producers of colored stones. Its
rubies are noted for their light and bright red color, and its sapphires for their light blue color.
Myanmar produces high-quality rubies, sapphires and other colored stones. Nevertheless, the
country has a closed policy regarding the gemstone industry, and its development and distribution infrastructures are regressive as a result. Its stones are said to be available only at special bidding exhibitions held no more than once or twice a year. Myanmar is famous for
beautiful red rubies and royal blue sapphires.
Colombia produces more than 80% of the global supply of emeralds. Colombia is known not
only for production quantity but also for the high quality of its emeralds. The green color of
emeralds is known to soothe tired eyes and calm the nerves. The highest-grade stones are
those with the richest and softest colors. However, because of the high level of inclusions,
emeralds are easily damaged.
Brazil has the world’s largest natural supply of gemstones, and it produces an enormous variety of colored stones, including every major type other than jade. Brazil ranks first in the
world in production of tourmaline, which have two or sometimes even more colors.
Russia produces high-quality emeralds and alexandrite, along with garnet and lapis lazuli.
Russian alexandrite is prized for its bluish green color.
Thailand
Sri Lanka
Myanmar
Colombia
Brazil
Russia
(3) Distribution System and Business Practices in Japan
Distribution channels for jewelry and colored stone are illustrated in Fig. 1 below. Small and medium-sized
enterprises have an overwhelming share of the market, and no single retailer or wholesaler dominates the jewelry industry in Japan. There are some 25,000 retailers in the jewelry industry including stores carrying not
only jewelry but also timepieces, eyewear and other fashion accessories. Jewelry is normally distributed from
importer to primary wholesaler (manufacturing-wholesaler) through processor or direct to secondary wholesaler (general wholesaler) to retailer. There is a fair volume of trading between wholesalers and between retailers. Consignment sales are also common, in which the retailer receives the merchandise on loan until the
sale is consummated. In retail stage, sales at accessory jewelry shops and television shopping run in high gear.
The former commonly has branch stores at department store on the first floor or at shopping centers, and sells
daily-use accessory jewelry with price ranges of ¥20,000 to ¥30,000, represented by 4˚C, Vendome Yamada,
and Star Jewelry.
Fig. 1
Production and distribution system for jewelry and colored stones
Principal distribution channel
Base metals, diamonds, colored stones
Jewelry
Supplementary distribution channel
Retail importer
Trading company
Importer, import agent
Wholesaler importer
<Manufacturing>
Processing
subcontractor
Maker/wholesaler
Designer
<Wholesaling>
Secondary
wholesalers
Primary wholesalers
Other wholesalers
<Retailing>
Importer direct
outlets
Other retailers
Marketing Guide for ASEAN Exporters to Japan
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Department stores
GMSs, specialty chain
stores, mail order houses
door-to-door sales
Fairs and trade
shows
Retail stores
B-2. Jewelry and Colored Stones
Recent times have also seen the emergence of order-made systems, under which specialized designers create
affordably priced jewelry based on customer images or sketches, and semi-order-made systems, in which the
customer chooses a combination of several precious metals and colors. These marketing methods enable jewelry companies to more precisely respond to customer needs, thereby helping boost sales. At the same time,
overseas name-brand companies and leading importers also sell direct to consumers through direct outlet
stores, and leading retailers, department stores, chain jewelry stores procure and import directly from abroad.
Apparel makers are also making moves to enter the market. Mass merchandisers like the discount stores are
starting aggressively to deal with the parallel imports of foreign brands in a large-scale. Another recent noteworthy trend in Japan is that the secondary distribution market is being formed where retail companies purchase the unused brand jewelry from consumers and sell them as second-hand products.
2. Trade Trends
(1) Import Trends in Japan
With some signs of recovery in consumer spending, 2004 jewelry imports posted healthy growth rising by
9.8% from the year before to ¥149.4 billion with 258.8 tons (up 6.2%). This is a new high to break the record
of 2001, when jewelry imports reached ¥140.6 billion (225.9 tons) due mainly to escalating price of materials
and depreciation of yen. By material, import volume of gold jewelry has been decreasing because of the rise of
average unit price from ¥2,803 per gram in 2000 to ¥3,393 in 2003, brought by the recent years’ world-wide
gold appreciation and depreciation of the yen against the euro. In 2004, however, though the average price was
still at high level (¥3,374 per gram), import volume of gold jewelry turned to an increase for the first time in
three years. As a result, import value increased to a new all-time record of ¥82.2 billion (up 10.1% from the
year before, share 55.0%).
Imports of platinum jewelry also grew from ¥30.5 billion (2.4 tons) the year before to ¥34.3 billion (3.6 tons)
in 2004, as prices hit bottom after a succession of increases, dropping from ¥14,190 per gram in 2000 to
¥9,572 in 2004. The substantial growth in volume has come from imports of less expensive silver jewelry
(priced at ¥142 per gram), which rose from 168.1 tons in 2000 to 230.8 tons (89.2%) in 2004, an increase of
about 40%. On its part, the growth in import value of silver jewelry was limited to 6.1% from the previous
year to ¥32.9 billion, which was lower than that of platinum jewelry for the first time in three years.
Fig. 2
Trends in Japan’s jewelry imports
[Total import value]
[Import value by category]
(¥ million)
200,000
(¥ million)
100,000
Gold jewelry
80,000
150,000
60,000
100,000
Platinum jewelry
40,000
50,000
20,000
0
0
2000
2001
2002
2003
Silver jewelry
2000
2004 (Year)
2001
Value
Gold jewelry
2002
2003
2004 (Year)
Volume
2000
2001
2002
2003
2004
2000
2001
2002
2003
2004
54,173
77,615
74,310
74,646
82,175
19,325
25,260
22,775
21,997
24,355
Silver jewelry
23,710
29,955
31,923
30,965
32,855 168,068 198,333 202,844 219,169 230,808
Platinum jewelry
26,400
33,033
28,804
30,483
34,338
TOTAL
104,283 140,602 135,038 136,095
Units: value=¥ million, volume=kg
149,369
Fig. 3
2,719
2,328
2,036
2,420
3,588
190,112 225,921 227,655 243,586 258,750
Source: Trade Statistics (Ministry of Finance)
Trends in jewelry imports by category in 2004
Value
Volume
Average unit price
Gold jewelry
82,175
55.0%
Yearly
change
110.1
24,355
9.4%
Yearly
change
110.7
Silver jewelry
32,855
22.0%
106.1
230,808
89.2%
105.3
141
142
Platinum jewelry
34,338
23.0%
112.6
3,588
1.4%
148.3
12,597
9,572
Value
Share
Volume
TOTAL
149,369
100.0%
109.8
258,750
Units: ¥ million, kg, yearly change=%, average unit price=¥ per gram
Share
2003
3,393
2004
3,374
100.0%
106.2
559
577
Source: Trade Statistics (Ministry of Finance)
Marketing Guide for ASEAN Exporters to Japan
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B-2. Jewelry and Colored Stones
[Colored stones]
As the phrase implies, colored stones come in many different variety of colors. Japan’s official trade statistics classifies them either as precious stones (rubies, sapphires and emeralds) or as semi-precious stones (all
other colored stones). After the collapse of the bubble economy, the slump in domestic consumption sharply
reduced imports of higher priced precious stones. In recent years imports of semi-precious stones, which are
in-expensive and come in many different varieties, always exceed those of precious stones. Since the consumer purchase price point has fallen, importers increasingly tend to select lower-priced varieties of colored
stones. Consequently, the unit price per carat has fallen dramatically (note: 1 carat = 0.2 grams). Imports of
precious stones, which went down to ¥66.1 billion (1,080 kilo-carats) last year, finally hit the bottom and
recovered to ¥71.2 billion (1,542 kilo-carats), nevertheless average unit price per carat still continued to drop
from ¥6,113 the year before to ¥4,619. On the contrary, semi-precious stones were imported in sizable numbers in 2002 due to ultra-low per-carat prices of ¥1-2, with imports soaring to 1.09 million kilo-carats as a
result. But, 2004 saw semi-precious imports slide below ¥10 billion to ¥8.9 billion (595,716 carats) after decline of the third straight year from the peak of 2001 (¥12.6 billion).
As a result, colored stone imports in total decreased to ¥16.0 billion in 2004, the lowest level ever. For reference’s sake, diamond, which were decreasing for two consecutive years like color stones, have turned to a
rise from ¥112.3 billion the year before to ¥122.0 billion (up 8.6%) in 2004 due to the effect of previously
cited “Trilogy” campaign. Imports of pearls recovered as well from ¥4.57 billion to ¥5.06 billion. Since color
stones have a variety of products and they do not have clear grading and pricing systems like as diamonds, it
is difficult to solicit a large sum of customers, but for the full-size recovery of Japanese jewelry market, a
recovery of color stone import is essential.
Fig. 4
Trends in Japan’s colored stone imports
[Total import value]
(¥ million)
25,000
(¥ million)
15,000
[Import value by category]
Semi-precious stones
20,000
10,000
15,000
Precious stones
10,000
5,000
5,000
0
0
2000
2001
2002
2003
2000
2004 (Year)
2001
2002
Value
2000
2001
2003
10,132
9,327
9,489
6,605
Semi-precious stones
12,472
12,624
11,763
10,009
22,604
21,951
21,252
128,921
117,621
117,533
Pearl (kg)
6,409
7,239
Units: value=¥ million, volume=kilo-carats
4,631
Ref.
Diamond
Fig. 5
2004
(Year)
Volume
2002
Precious stones
TOTAL
2003
16,614
2004
7,122
2,129
2001
2002
1,139
2003
1,368
2004
1,080
1,542
8,914 585,937 449,509 1,092,420 645,830 594,174
16,036 588,066 450,647 1,093,788
112,304 121,993
4,570
2000
5,059
2,711
2,542
646,911 595,716
2,619
2,560
2,658
14,504
14,513
18,757
15,754
19,308
Source: Trade Statistics (Ministry of Finance)
Trends in colored stone imports by category in 2004
Value
Volume
Precious stones
7,122
44.4%
Yearly
change
107.8
Semi-precious stones
8,914
55.6%
89.1
Value
Share
Average unit price
1,542
0.3%
Yearly
change
142.7
594,174
99.7%
92.0
Volume
Share
2003
2004
6,113
4,619
15
15
TOTAL
16,036
100.0%
96.5
595,716
100.0%
92.1
26
27
Units: ¥ million, kilo-carats, yearly change=%, average unit price=¥ per carat Source: Trade Statistics (Ministry of Finance)
Marketing Guide for ASEAN Exporters to Japan
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B-2. Jewelry and Colored Stones
(2) Principal Exporters to Japan and ASEAN’s Position
[Jewelry]
In the imported jewelry market, three leading exporters of Italy (share 21.5%, ¥32.2 billion), the United
States (20.6%, ¥30.7 billion) and France (19.3%, ¥28.9 billion) remain locked in a tight race. Next leading
exporters consist of Thailand (7.1%, ¥10.6 billion), Hong Kong (7.0%, ¥10.5 billion), Switzerland (5.4%,
¥8.1 billion) and China (4.6%, ¥6.9 billion). These seven countries/regions together account for 85.5% of
total import value, and 73.5% of total import volume (see Fig. 6).
By material in value, Italy (29.9%, ¥24.6 billion) and France (24.6%, ¥20.2 billion) have large share of
imports in the category of gold jewelry, while the United States (47.0%, ¥16.1 billion) and France (20.9%,
¥7.2 billion) are leaders in platinum jewelry, and the United States (31.4%, ¥10.3 billion), Italy (17.0%, ¥5.6
billion) and Thailand (12.8%, ¥4.2 billion) are strong in silver jewelry (see Figs. 7-9).
The United States, the leading exporter of jewelry to Japan in previous times, ended up with slight increase
in its total jewelry exports to Japan at ¥30.7 billion, due mainly to a slowdown of silver jewelry. In contrast,
Italy expanded its export to Japan not only for gold jewelry, its flagship category, but also for silver jewelry
and platinum jewelry, and its total imports grew strongly from ¥28.1 billion the year before to ¥32.2 billion.
As a result, Italy moved past U.S. into top spot in the rankings for the first time ever. France also expanded
its import value to a record high of ¥28.9 billion mainly with high-class brand products of gold or platinum
jewelry. Other leading exporters such as Hong Kong, Switzerland and China all saw their imports double-digit grow to record levels. Only Thailand ended up with a decrease both on a value and a volume basis
for two consecutive years (see Fig. 6). Thailand was being caught up by China in its strong low-priced silver
jewelry and also being caught up by Hong Kong in gold jewelry.
Among ASEAN, imports from Vietnam (¥1.37 billion) and Indonesia (¥337 million) in 2004 were on the
increase. Affected by the slump of leading country of Thailand, however, imports from ASEAN as a whole
increased only slightly (up 3.0% from the year before to ¥12.8 billion), and its share in the expanding jewelry market is shrinking from 9.2% to 8.6% (see Fig. 10). By material, ASEAN has the largest share in silver
jewelry (14.7%, ¥4.8 billion), followed by 7.4% (¥6.1 billion) in gold jewelry and 5.6% (¥1.9 billion) in
platinum jewelry. (see Figs. 7 – 9)
Fig. 6
Principal exporters of jewelry (total) to Japan
[Trends in import value by leading exporters]
[Shares of jewelry imports in 2004 (value basis)]
(¥ million)
40,000
U.S.A.
Others
22.6%
Italy
ASEAN
8.6%
30,000
France
20,000
Thailand
EU
48.2%
10,000
U.S.A.
20.6%
0
2000
2001
2002
2003
2004
(Year)
2000
2001
2002
Value
Value
Value
Value
Italy
21,107
28,571
27,748
28,106
40,879
U.S.A.
29,627
36,563
32,736
30,369
35,319
30,738
France
15,680
27,844
24,564
26,487
7,441
28,886
Thailand
9,565
10,274
11,643
10,742
67,909
10,556
Hong Kong
7,415
8,453
8,003
8,592
6,707
10,468
Switzerland
2,866
6,254
7,084
7,291
1,732
8,064
5.4%
China
2,925
3,369
4,297
5,724
23,839
6,896
4.6%
Others
2003
2004
Volume
45,635
Average
unit price
17.6%
705
20.6%
31,386
12.1%
979
19.3%
11,491
4.4%
2,514
7.1%
59,215
22.9%
178
7.0%
8,105
3.1%
1,292
1,731
0.7%
4,660
32,776
12.7%
210
315
Value
32,178
Volume
21.5%
15,098
19,274
18,963
18,785
59,760
21,582
14.4%
68,412
26.4%
TOTAL
104,283
140,602
135,038
136,095
243,586
149,369
100.0%
258,750
100.0%
577
(E U)
45,238
68,896
64,226
65,154
68,220
72,063
48.2%
73,305
28.3%
983
(ASEAN)
10,368
11,311
13,005
12,457
Units: ¥ million, kg, average unit price=¥ per gram
74,983
12,831
8.6%
68,703
26.6%
187
Source: Trade Statistics (Ministry of Finance)
Marketing Guide for ASEAN Exporters to Japan
59
B-2. Jewelry and Colored Stones
Fig. 7 Principal exporters of gold jewelry to Japan
[Trends in import value by leading exporters]
[Shares of gold jewelry imports in 2004]
(¥ million)
30,000
AEAN
7.4%
Others
24.2%
Italy
20,000
France
10,000
Hong Kong
EU
60.2%
Hong Kong
8.2%
0
2000
2001
2002
2003
(Year)
2004
2000
2001
2002
Value
Value
Value
Value
Italy
16,657
23,292
22,951
22,027
8,165
24,571
29.9%
8,538
Average
unit price
35.1%
2,878
France
11,960
20,255
18,042
18,959
2,215
20,208
24.6%
2,501
10.3%
8,081
Hong Kong
4,647
5,679
5,542
6,004
2,042
6,699
8.2%
2,052
8.4%
3,265
Switzerland
2,067
4,355
5,316
5,400
703
5,951
7.2%
968
4.0%
6,149
Thailand
4,587
5,598
5,643
5,155
1,625
4,987
6.1%
1,446
5.9%
3,448
2,233
Others
TOTAL
2003
2004
Volume
Value
Volume
14,254
18,436
16,816
17,102
7,247
19,759
24.0%
8,850
36.3%
54,173
77,615
74,310
74,646
21,997
82,175
100.0%
24,355
100.0%
3,374
50.5%
4,019
(E U)
32,336
49,329
45,905
45,100
(ASEAN)
4,855
6,007
6,277
6,064
Units: ¥ million, kg, average unit price=¥ per gram
Fig. 8
11,859
2,265
60.2%
49,466
12,308
6,091
7.4%
2,179
8.9%
2,795
Source: Trade Statistics (Ministry of Finance)
Principal exporters of platinum jewelry to Japan
[Trends in import value by leading exporters]
[Shares of platinum jewelry imports in 2004]
(¥ million)
20,000
Others
14.1%
U.S.A.
15,000
10,000
France
5,000
ASEAN
5.6%
EU
33.3%
U.S.A.
47.0%
Hong Kong
Italy
0
2000
2001
2002
2003
(Year)
2004
2000
2001
2002
Value
Value
Value
Value
U.S.A.
15,091
16,859
14,509
15,034
786
16,127
47.0%
821
France
2,378
6,309
4,937
6,137
208
7,161
20.9%
263
7.3%
27,262
Hong Kong
2,224
2,099
1,771
1,449
100
2,096
6.1%
94
2.6%
22,401
Italy
959
1,286
887
1,453
248
2,033
5.9%
254
7.1%
8,011
Switzerland
696
1,836
1,648
1,730
229
1,988
5.8%
213
5.9%
9,337
2,537
Others
2003
2004
Volume
Value
Volume
Average
unit price
22.9%
19,652
5,052
4,645
5,053
4,679
848
4,932
14.4%
1,944
54.2%
TOTAL
26,400
33,033
28,804
30,483
2,420
34,338
100.0%
3,588
100.0%
9,572
(E U)
4,680
10,007
8,357
10,057
874
11,446
33.3%
1,057
29.5%
10,829
(ASEAN)
2,454
1,553
1,835
1,605
292
1,917
5.6%
365
9.7%
5,529
Units: Value=¥ million, Volume=kg, Average unit price=¥ per gram
Source: Trade Statistics (Ministry of Finance)
(Note) In 2004, sizeable numbers of abnormally low-priced platinum were imported from China (957 kg) and Australia (367 kg).
Marketing Guide for ASEAN Exporters to Japan
60
B-2. Jewelry and Colored Stones
Fig. 9
Principal exporters of silver jewelry to Japan
[Trends in import value by leading exporters]
[Shares of silver jewelry imports in 2004]
(¥ million)
15,000
Others
20.0%
U.S.A.
ASEAN
14.7%
10,000
Italy
EU
33.9%
5,000
Thailand
U.S.A.
31.4%
0
2000
2001
2002
2003
(Year)
2004
2000
2001
2002
2003
Value
Value
Value
Value
2004
10,296
14,037
13,275
11,186
33,271
10,315
31.4%
28,262
Average
unit price
12.2%
365
Italy
3,491
3,994
3,910
4,626
32,466
5,575
17.0%
36,843
16.0%
151
Thailand
2,735
3,190
4,331
4,271
66,065
4,210
12.8%
57,564
24.9%
73
667
871
1,625
2,121
22,360
2,966
9.0%
30,006
13.0%
99
375
U.S.A.
China
Volume
Value
Volume
Spain
1,439
2,066
1,789
1,448
4,317
1,748
5.3%
4,666
2.0%
Others
5,082
5,797
6,994
7,315
60,690
8,041
24.5%
73,467
31.8%
109
23,710
29,955
31,923
30,965
219,169
32,855
100.0%
230,808
100.0%
142
9,997
4,788
55,487
72,426
11,151
4,823
33.9%
TOTAL
(E U)
8,222
9,559
9,964
(ASEAN)
3,060
3,751
4,892
Units: ¥ million, kg, average unit price=¥ per gram
Fig. 10
26.0%
186
59,940
14.7%
66,177
28.7%
73
Source: Trade Statistics (Ministry of Finance)
Trends in jewelry imports from ASEAN by country/category
[Value]
[Volume]
(kg)
(¥ million)
15,000
13,005
10,368
11,311
12,457
80,000
12,831
76,173
74,983
2002
2003
66,336
60,000
68,703
57,197
10,000
40,000
5,000
20,000
0
0
2000
2001
2002
2003
2004
2000
(Year)
2001
Value
Gold jewelry
Silver jewelry
ASEAN
TOTAL Platinum jewelry
TOTAL
Share of total
2000
4,855
3,060
2,454
10,368
9.9%
Gold jewelry
Silver jewelry
Thailand Platinum jewelry
TOTAL
Share of total
Gold jewelry
Silver jewelry
Vietnam Platinum jewelry
TOTAL
Share of total
4,587
2,735
2,244
9,565
9.2%
113
103
216
0.2%
(Year)
Average
unit price
Volume
2001
2002
6,007
6,277
3,751
4,892
1,553
1,835
11,311 13,005
8.0%
9.6%
2003
6,064
4,788
1,605
12,457
9.2%
2004
6,091
4,823
1,917
12,831
8.6%
2000
1,520
55,287
390
57,197
30.1%
2001
2,179
63,934
223
66,336
29.4%
2002
2,304
73,590
279
76,173
33.5%
2003
2,265
72,426
292
74,983
30.8%
5,598
3,190
1,486
10,274
7.3%
202
32
25
259
0.2%
5,155
4,271
1,316
10,742
7.9%
521
42
266
829
0.6%
4,987
4,210
1,359
10,556
7.1%
757
84
526
1,367
0.9%
1,365
50,175
335
51,874
27.3%
73
37
110
0.1%
1,834
57,404
205
59,442
26.3%
168
148
7
323
0.1%
1,829
66,361
240
68,430
30.1%
199
359
31
589
0.3%
1,625
66,065
220
67,909
27.9%
272
117
65
454
0.2%
5,643
4,331
1,669
11,643
8.6%
356
45
144
544
0.4%
2004
2004
2,179
66,177
347
68,703
26.6%
2004
2,795
73
5,529
187
1,446
3,448
57,564
73
204
6,650
59,215
178
22.9%
390
1,941
278
300
136
3,879
804
1,701
0.3%
(To be continued)
Marketing Guide for ASEAN Exporters to Japan
61
B-2. Jewelry and Colored Stones
Value
2000
16
218
7
241
0.2%
16
95
21
2001
94
291
2
387
0.3%
14
141
8
2002
114
287
0
401
0.3%
69
176
7
132
163
251
Share of total
0.1%
0.1%
0.2%
Singapore
165
143
115
Malaysia
11
84
46
Myanmar
38
6
Cambodia
Laos
Brunei
Units: ¥ million, kg, average unit price=¥ per gram
Gold jewelry
Silver jewelry
Philippines Platinum jewelry
TOTAL
Share of total
Gold jewelry
Silver jewelry
IndonePlatinum jewelry
sia
TOTAL
Average
unit price
Volume
2003
123
262
1
386
0.3%
106
198
14
2004
82
292
374
0.3%
99
228
10
2000
17
3,535
4
3,556
1.9%
18
1,459
12
2001
95
3,716
1
3,812
1.7%
16
2,215
4
2002
182
3,342
0
3,524
1.5%
65
3,314
4
2003
174
3,040
1
3,215
1.3%
118
3,132
6
2004
151
3,126
3,277
1.3%
131
5,178
4
2004
547
93
114
319
337
1,489
2,235
3,384
3,257
5,313
63
0.2%
169
12
-
0.2%
174
22
1
-
0.8%
154
13
0
-
1.0%
1.5%
1.3%
2.1%
190
92
142
61
2,872
334
148
7
34
659
6
0
Source: Trade Statistics (Ministry of Finance)
754
44
2,449
[Colored stones]
Rubies, sapphires and emeralds are produced in Asia and South America, and the largest portion of Japan’s
precious stone imports comes from Thailand, which is one of the leading worldwide centers of both gemstone production and processing. Accordingly, Thailand was most affected by stagnant demand of precious
stones and its exports to Japan declined sharply from ¥54.1 billion the year before to ¥31.3 billion in 2003.
In 2004, while the quantity was recovered to 670 kilo-carats, import value remained ¥32.9 billion (share
46.6%) because of lower unit prices. The next leading exporters of precious stones to Japan was Colombia
(24.2%, ¥1.73 billion; its emeralds are famous) and Hong Kong (9.3%, ¥665 million), which produces no
stones of its own but is well known as a processing and distribution point. On a volume basis, Thailand held
a share of 43.4% (670 kilo-carats), followed by India (32.6%, 502 kilo-carats), which consisted of many
low-priced stones.
Fig. 11
Principal exporters of precious stones to Japan
[Trends in import value by leading exporters]
[Shares of precious stone imports in 2004]
(¥ million)
6,000
Others
24.6%
Thailand
4,000
ASEAN
49.4%
Colombia
2,000
Hong Kong
Colombia
24.2%
0
2000
2001
2002
2003
2000
2001
2002
Value
Value
Value
2004
EU
1.8%
(Year)
2003
Value
2004
Volume
Value
Volume
Thailand
5,191
4,766
5,411
3,133
576
3,289
46.6%
Colombia
2,738
2,391
2,072
1,680
79
1,727
24.2%
86
5.6%
Hong Kong
899
754
968
736
118
665
9.3%
143
9.2%
4,665
Sri Lanka
533
565
304
329
55
291
4.1%
25
1.6%
11,527
India
212
184
204
134
172
270
3.8%
502
32.6%
537
7,579
Others
670
Average
unit price
43.4%
4,910
20,108
559
666
528
592
80
881
12.4%
116
7.5%
TOTAL
10,132
9,327
9,489
6,605
1,080
7,122
100.0%
1,542
100.0%
4,619
(E U)
79
293
92
74
10
128
1.8%
9
0.6%
13,902
(ASEAN)
5,254
4,801
5,484
3,173
Units: ¥ million, kilo-carats, average unit price=¥ per carat
603
3,515
Marketing Guide for ASEAN Exporters to Japan
62
49.4%
722
46.8%
4,866
Source: Trade Statistics (Ministry of Finance)
B-2. Jewelry and Colored Stones
The leading exporter of semi-precious stones to Japan was Hong Kong, accounting for 33.8% (¥3.01 billion) of total imports in 2004. The next leading exporters were Thailand (12.8%, ¥1.15 billion) and Australia
(12.3%, ¥1.10 billion), both of which finished below the previous year. On a volume basis, Brazil and China
together still virtually monopolized the imported semi-precious stone market with a combined 76.3% share
(0.45 million kilo-carats). They are ultra-low-priced semi-precious stones with unit prices of ¥2 or ¥4. While
it is impossible to know for certain from official trade statistics, but Brazil is the leading producer of leading
types of semi-precious stones such as aquamarine, tourmaline, topaz, imperial topaz and garnet, and is said
to produce 90% of the world’s supply of semi-precious stones. China produces peridot, turquoise, tourmaline,
zircon, garnet, and other various semi-precious stones.
Fig. 12 Principal exporters of semi-precious stones to Japan
[Trends in import value by leading exporters] [Shares of semi-precious stone imports in 2004]
(¥ million)
6,000
Hong Kong
4,000
ASEAN
13.4%
Others
33.0%
EU
7.5%
Thailand
2,000
Australia
Australia
12.3%
0
2000
2001
2002
2003
2000
2001
2002
Value
Value
Value
2004
Hong Kong
33.8%
(Year)
2003
Value
2004
Volume
Value
Volume
Average
unit price
9.7%
52
Hong Kong
4,348
4,464
4,789
3,751
59,861
3,010
33.8%
57,595
Thailand
2,004
1,931
1,686
1,530
3,020
1,145
12.8%
2,545
0.4%
450
Australia
1,797
1,723
1,307
1,355
496
1,096
12.3%
558
0.1%
1,964
Brazil
1,017
972
749
680
280,841
887
9.9%
239,327
40.3%
4
11,291
1.9%
63
India
1,146
1,524
1,201
629
13,407
708
7.9%
Others
2,160
2,011
2,031
2,063
288,205
2,068
23.2%
282,858
47.6%
7
12,472
12,624
11,763
10,009
645,830
8,914
100.0%
594,174
100.0%
15
(E U)
754
642
673
733
(ASEAN)
2,026
1,954
1,715
1,555
Units: ¥ million, kilo-carats, average unit price=¥ per carat
2,078
7,492
673
1,192
TOTAL
7.5%
0.4%
276
2,441
13.4%
7,533
1.3%
158
Source: Trade Statistics (Ministry of Finance)
Most of color stones’ imports from ASEAN come from Thailand, although there are some products directly
from Myanmar, which is famous for beautiful rubies and sapphires, and cheaper semi-precious stones have
been increasing. Even though import value has dropped significantly compared with the past, ASEAN is still
a biggest supply base of color stones for Japan.
Fig. 13
Trends in colored stone imports from ASEAN by country/category
[Value]
(¥ million)
8,000
[Volume]
(Kilo-carats)
10,000
10,000
7,280
6,755
6,000
4,728
6,000
4,707
4,000
4,000
2,000
2,000
8,255
2003
2004
5,410
4,863
4,365
0
0
2000
2001
2002
2003
2004
(Year)
2000
2001
Value
Precious stones
ASEAN
TOTAL
8,095
8,000
7,199
Semi-precious stones
TOTAL
Share of total
2000
5,254
2,026
7,280
32.2%
2001
4,801
1,954
6,755
30.8%
2002
5,484
1,715
7,199
33.9%
2002
Average
unit price
Volume
2003
3,173
1,555
4,728
28.3%
2004
3,515
1,192
4,707
29.4%
2000
790
4,073
4,863
0.8%
2001
628
3,737
4,365
1.0%
2002
763
4,647
5,410
0.5%
(Year)
2003
603
7,492
8,095
1.3%
2004
722
7,533
8,255
1.4%
2004
4,866
158
570
Marketing Guide for ASEAN Exporters to Japan
63
B-2. Jewelry and Colored Stones
Value
2000
2001
2002
5,191
4,766
5,411
Semi-precious stones
2,004
1,931
1,686
Thailand
TOTAL
7,195
6,697
7,097
Share of total
31.8% 30.5% 33.4%
Precious stones
45
22
55
Semi-precious stones
9
10
19
Myanmar
TOTAL
55
32
74
Share of total
0.2%
0.1%
0.4%
15
15
24
Vietnam
3
6
1
Singapore
1
Malaysia
11
3
2
Indonesia
0
Philippines
1
Brunei
Laos
Cambodia
Units: ¥ million, kilo-carats, average unit price=¥ per carat
Precious stones
Volume
2003
3,133
1,530
4,663
28.1%
18
13
32
0.2%
23
7
2
1
0
-
2004
3,289
1,145
4,434
27.6%
203
36
239
1.5%
23
7
4
-
2000
774
3,463
4,237
0.7%
0
4
4
0.0%
22
15
585
-
Average
unit price
2001
2002
2003
2004
2004
606
740
576
670
4,910
3,503
3,191
3,020
2,545
450
4,109
3,931
3,596
3,215
1,379
0.9%
0.4%
0.6%
0.5%
0
12
0
43
4,694
43
15
3,895
4,551
8
44
27
3,896
4,594
52
0.0%
0.0%
0.6%
0.8%
63
27
43
9
2,556
12
14
559
425
17
0
0
13
299
137
1,150
0
260
0
0
Source: Trade Statistics (Ministry of Finance)
(3) Imports’ Market Share in Japan
Japan produces only one type of precious stone or metal commonly used in jewelry, namely, pearls (cultured
pearls). Consequently, the Japanese jewelry market relies on imports for virtually all of its raw material supplies. There is also substantially zero domestic production of colored stones. Almost 100 percent of the colored stones sold in Japan are imported. The Japanese jewelry market is estimated to reach an all-time record
size of ¥2.528 trillion in 1990. The collapse of the so-called bubble economy in 1991 brought much less favorable market conditions. Sales of high-priced items plummeted and the jewelry industry faced lower sales
and reduced profits. The size of the jewelry market in 2004 is estimated at around ¥1.25 trillion, representing
shrinkage of about half from its peak size. On their parts, sales of luxury-grade imported brands such as Tiffany (USA), Cartier (France) and Bvlgari (Italy) are generally high, and it is estimated that the share of these
luxury-brands has totally risen to over 20%.
3. Key Considerations related to Exporting to Japan
(1) Regulations and Procedural Requirements at the Time of Importation in Japan
In principle there are no particular legal restrictions on the importation of jewelry and colored stones. However, products that use certain species of wild fauna and flora (such as ivory or coral) may be restricted or prohibited under terms of the Washington Convention (Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species
of Wild Fauna and Flora, so-called CITES). In addition, the Customs Tariff Law prohibits the importation of
fake name-brand products and knock-off copies, and such items are subject to confiscation or destruction at
customs based on provisions of the Customs Law. Importers can even be subject to criminal penalties, including fines and imprisonment.
1) Foreign Exchange and Foreign Trade Law (Import Trade Control Order)
Under terms of the Washington Convention, the Foreign Exchange and Foreign Trade Law regulates importing of species of wild fauna and flora listed in the Appendices to the Convention. It covers not only the
wild fauna and flora themselves but also products made wholly or partially from them. The Washington Convention applies to three categories of species, as discussed below. For more information on the specific content and applicability of these classifications, please contact the Trade Licensing Division, Trade and Control
Department, Trade and Economic Cooperation Bureau, Ministry of Economy, Trade and Industry.
Appendix I (All species threatened with extinction)
Commercial traffic in these species or products made from these species is prohibited. For customs
purposes all of these species are designated as import quota items and the Minister of Economy, Trade
and Industry must approve an import quota before any such item can be imported.
Appendix II (All species requiring strict international regulation to prevent danger of extinction)
The importer of any such species or product made from a member of such species must present to
Japanese customs authorities an export certificate or re-export certificate from the management authority of the exporting country. Some species need prior confirmation by the Minister of Economy,
Trade and Industry.
Marketing Guide for ASEAN Exporters to Japan
64
B-2. Jewelry and Colored Stones
Appendix III (All Species that any party identifies as being subject to regulation and as needing the cooperation of
other parties in the control of trade)
The importer of any such species or product made from a member of such species must present to
Japanese customs an export certificate and a certificate of origin issued by management authority of
exporting country, or a certificate granted by the management authority of the country of re-export that
specimen was processed in that country. Some species need prior confirmation by the Minister of
Economy, Trade and Industry.
Materials may be bred and raised in captivity for commercial purpose, or those had obtained prior to conclusion of the Convention are permitted so long as a certificate by the management authority of exporting
country to that effect is granted. It is preferable when importing jewelry containing ivory, coral and other
certain species to list the scientific name on the invoice.
(2) Regulations and Procedural Requirements at the Time of Sale in Japan
There are no legal regulations governing sale of jewelry and colored stones. But, products made from certain
species (such as ivory or coral) may be restricted or prohibited under terms of the Law for Conservation of
Endangered Species of Wild Fauna and Flora. The various intellectual property laws (Trademark Law, Patent
Law, Unfair Competition Prevention Law, etc) regulate products that infringe intellectual property rights. Prospective importers must be aware of these considerations, as rights holders may initiate legal action. Containers and packaging may also be subject to identifier labeling provisions of the Law for Promotion of Effective
Utilization of Resources, and recycling provisions of the Containers and Packaging Recycling Law. Please
contact one of the agencies listed below for more complete information about affected pack-aging, the definition of specific providers (certain small-scale providers are exempt from regulation), and labeling methods.
1) Law for Conservation of Endangered Species of Wild Fauna and Flora
The Law established a legal framework of protection for species considered to be in danger of extinction.
Products made from certain species, which are designated as species specially identified for protection, may
not be sold or transferred in Japan. However, species that are being raised for commercial purposes may be
distributed in Japan, provided that proper registration procedures with the Minister of the Environment are
completed. Registration procedures are with the Natural Environment Research Center, a registration organization officially designated by the Ministry of the Environment. For more details, please consult with the
Wildlife Division, Nature Conservation Bureau, Ministry of the Environment.
(3) Labeling Regulations at the Time of Sale in Japan
1) Legally Required Labeling
[1] Law for Promotion of Effective Utilization of Resources
<Example>
Under the Law for Promotion of Effective Utilization of Resources,
specific containers and packaging are subject to identifier labeling
provisions, in order to promote sorted collection. When paper or
plastic is used as a packaging material for wrapping of individual
product items, or for labels, external packaging or elsewhere, a material identifier mark must be displayed at least one spot on the side
of the container with information where the material is used.
External
packaging
Tag
2) Voluntary Labeling based on Provisions of Law
There is no voluntary labeling based on provisions of law for jewelry and colored stones.
3) Voluntary Industry Labeling
[Jewelry]
Every country has its own distinctive set of symbols for indicating the precious metal content of products
made from precious metals, called “Hallmark.” In Japan Mint Bureau, Ministry of Finance stamps the “Rising Sun” symbol along with a metal identifier code on coins. The hallmark (metal content mark) system is
voluntary, but the marking of jewelry in Japan in this way has pretty much become standard practice. Jewelry made in other developed countries generally bears some sort of metal content mark, but there is no consistent, internationally recognized standard for precious metal or quality labeling.
Japanese jewelry industry instituted a quality marking system. This guarantees the quality (content of precious metal) of jewelry and handicrafts made of precious metals (gold, platinum, and silver). Under this system, the responsibility of the labeler is clearly defined by stamping a registered trademark of the Japan Jewelry Association and labeler identification mark.
Marketing Guide for ASEAN Exporters to Japan
65
B-2. Jewelry and Colored Stones
[Colored stones]
The Association of Gemological Laboratories Japan (AGL) and the Japan Jewelry Association have instituted information services on jewelry in general from 1994. This is to inform the consumer of improvements
and changes to the color and appearance, in addition to the cut and polish. Specifically, improvements and
changes have to be clearly noted in appraisals, etc. Sales clerks are also obliged to inform customers of these
facts when explaining the products for sales purposes. The Japan Jewelry Association established ethical
guidelines and voluntary standards regarding transactions in 1998.
Contact: Japan Jewelry Association
TEL: 03-3835-8567
http://www.jja.ne.jp
Example label for Hallmark/Quality Marking
[Japan]
Platinum products
(Platinum 950)
[Italy]
Gold products
(18K Gold)
Silver products
(Silver 950)
Labeling example of Quality Marking System in Japan
Gold jewelry only
(1) Quality grading
(2) Jeweler’s No. and regional abbreviation
[Singapore]
(4) Key Considerations for entering the Japanese Market
[Jewelry]
In recent times most jewelry demand in Japan is coming from young women in their 20s and 30s. They do
not decide its purchase of products solely based on its price, but also put high considerations on the coordination with their clothes and the fashion sense. Prospective exporters to Japan are required to have the abilities to collect information, to analyze the market and to plan the products in order to anticipate consumer’s
needs. You should give due considerations to the following points in transactions.
1) Prevalence of informal international business practices
In all parts of the world the jewelry industry has historically been noted for relying on informal business
arrangements based on mutual trust, in which parties operate under parole contracts without any written
contract document. Even though there may be no written agreement, people in the industry still expect
strict adherence to product return and payment agreements.
2) Personal relationships
The jewelry market has become increasingly open, so much so that even capital-poor young adults and
foreigners can easily go into the jewelry business. Even so, it is still possible that the success of an initial business contact will depend on an introduction from some prominent intermediary. In this sense,
there has been little change in the fact that personal relationships are key to success in this field.
3) Consignment sales and payment by promissory note
New market entrants must understand that the Japanese jewelry industry has a long-standing tradition
of consignment sales and payment by a bill (promissory note), with a wide range of due dates, ranging
from 1-2 months to as much as 7 months (210 days). In consignment sales, the wholesaler or other retailer lends the product to the retailer for a period of time, and they collect a proportionate fee based on
the portion sold during that time. Almost all jewelry on display in retail outlets, including department
stores, is being sold on consignment.
The most commonly requirement forms of after-sales services for jewelry is size adjustments, repairs and
cleaning. Such service needs are met by Japanese providers either at no cost or at the actual cost of providing
the service. Sometimes gold from different manufacturers can differ slightly in color, so there remain certain
Marketing Guide for ASEAN Exporters to Japan
66
B-2. Jewelry and Colored Stones
technical problems in providing after-sales service. Some retailers are optimistic about a recent market strategy of including jewelry refurbishment as part of after-sales service.
<Bonding Procedure>
[Jewelry]
Jewelry undergoes a unique bonding procedure at customs. Bonding refers to the process wherein an imported product is inspected in a bonded area. This system enables Japanese buyers to conduct thorough inspections for damage, for proper cut and for weight, and then gives them the opportunity to import only
items they actually want, and return unneeded items to the supplier.
In the bonding procedure system, foreign suppliers can do business negotiations with Japanese buyers in a
bonded area under the goods in bond. Accordingly, they are freed from the troublesome process of having to
pay tariff duties and consumption tax on merchandise brought into Japan for inspection, then having to obtain tax refunds on unsold merchandise. Japanese buyers also benefit because it relieves them of the need to
travel abroad to examine and purchase jewelry. The negotiations and inspections currently take place at the
Jewelry Trade Center, Inc., under the supervision of the Tokyo Customs Office. The benefits of this bonding
procedure are as follows:
• Simplifies tax payments by foreigners
Suppliers from other countries are freed from the troublesome process of having to pay tariff duties and
consumption tax on merchandise brought into Japan for inspection, then having to obtain tax refunds on
unsold merchandise. Once negotiations are complete, the Japanese buyer can pay any taxes owed on the
purchased items only.
• Advance inspections
Japanese buyers have the opportunity to inspect ordered merchandise after it arrives in Japan but before
they have to submit notification of import. This simplifies the process if any merchandise has to be returned because it does not match the order or because of defects.
• Transactions based on inspection
The bonding process gives buyers the opportunity to import only the items they like and send back the
rest. This saves both time and money spent traveling overseas to examine and purchase jewelry.
[Colored stones]
Transactions of color stones need to identify quality merchandise possess gemological technology. Moreover, because color stones are subject to changing style and fashion trends, and because of the need for a full
and varied product line, it is critical to the success of the prospective market entrants to establish connections
with the experienced importers in Japan and to rely on their inventory maintenance capabilities. There are
more than 70 entities in Japan that perform gemological and appraisal work (Note), all of which are private
organizations. The Association of Gemological Laboratories Japan is a trade association that works to promote the use of unified gemological standards.
Note: Gemological work is the process of determining the mineralogical identity of a gemstone. Gemologists examine gemstones to determine if they are natural or artificial, whether they have been artificially made, whether they have been artificially worked in a manner, which adds value to the stone, and what name should be assigned to the stone. Appraisal, on
the other hand, is the process of determining the economic value of a gemstone, and is performed only for diamonds.
Color stones are rarely sold except as component of jewelry items. Thus, the most commonly requirement
forms of after-sales services are size adjustments, cleaning, loosening stone fitting, and remaking an older
style into a new one. Customers are usually most comfortable with having repairs done at the retail store
where they purchased them. But, actually not all retail stores accept jewelry for refurbishment because of the
high risk of problems.
(5) Considerations for Related Products
(1) Uncut diamond
As of January 10, 2003, importers of rough diamonds (HS No. 7102.10, 7102.21, 7102.31) must present
a Kimberley Process Certificate, instituted under the Kimberley Process program to halt improper trade
in diamonds, the proceeds from which have been used to finance conflicts in Africa. In addition, voluntary industry standards stipulate that invoices for uncut diamonds and diamond jewelry must include a
written oath.
(2) Pearl
There are no regulations and procedural requirements at the time of importation for pearl.
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B-2. Jewelry and Colored Stones
(3) Coral and other jewelry items
Imports of jewelry items containing coral, shell (mother of pearl), or shell cameo may be subject to
provisions of the Washington Convention. For more information, please contact the Trade Licensing
Division, Trade and Control Department, Trade and Economic Cooperation Bureau, Ministry of
Economy, Trade and Industry.
(6) Regulatory Agency Contact
• Foreign Exchange and Foreign Trade Law (Import Trade Control Order)
Trade Licensing Division, Trade Control Department, Trade and Economic Cooperation Bureau,
Ministry of Economy, Trade and Industry
TEL: 03-3501-1511
http://www.meti.go.jp
• Law for Conservation of Endangered Species of Wild Fauna and Flora / Wild Life Protection and Hunting Law
Wildlife Division, Nature Conservation Bureau, Ministry of the Environment
TEL: 03-3581-3351
FAX:03-3581-7090 (Direct)
http://www.env.go.jp
• Customs Tariff Law / Customs Law
Compensation and Operation Division, Customs and Tariff Bureau, Ministry of Finance
TEL: 03-3581-4111
http://www.mof.go.jp
• Law for Promotion of Effective Utilization of Resources / Containers and Packaging Recycling Law
Recycling Promotion Division, Industrial Science and Technology Policy and Environment Bureau,
Ministry of Economy, Trade and Industry
TEL: 03-3501-1511
http://www.meti.go.jp
Office of Recycling Promotion, Policy Planning Division, Waste Management and Recycling Department,
Ministry of the Environment
TEL: 03-3581-3351
FAX: 03-3593-8262 (Direct)
http://www.env.go.jp
4. Tariff Duties and Consumption Tax in Japan
(1) Tariff Duties
Fig. 14 on the following page presents tariff duties on jewelry and colored stones. In case of confirming the
tariff classification or applicable tariff rate in advance, it is convenient to use the “advance counseling program.” By making an inquiry to the customs orally, or through document or e-mail, the customs will reply to
such inquiry.
Contact: Customs website
http://www.customs.go.jp
[Preferential Tariff System]
In order to apply for preferential tariff rates on jewelry and colored stones imported from preferential
treatment countries, the importer should submit a certificate of preferential country of origin (Form A) issued by the customs or other issuing agency in the exporting country (not required if the total taxable value
of the shipment is no greater than ¥200,000). For more details, please contact the Customs and Tariff Bureau, Ministry of Finance. Application of tariff rates on ASEAN countries is as follows.
Applicable Rates
LDC Preferential Rate
Preferential Rate
JSEPA Rate
WTO Rate
(2) Consumption Tax
(CIF + Tariff Duty) x 5%
Marketing Guide for ASEAN Exporters to Japan
68
ASEAN Countries
Myanmar, Cambodia, Laos
Thailand, Indonesia, Malaysia, Philippines, Vietnam
Singapore
Brunei
B-2. Jewelry and Colored Stones
Fig. 14 Tariff duties on jewelry and colored stones
HS No.
7103
91-000
99-000
7113
11-000
19
-010
Description
General
Precious stones and semi-precious stones (worked)
Rubies, sapphires, emeralds
Other colored stones (semi-precious stones)
Articles of jewelry and parts thereof, of precious metal:
1. Of silver
Free
Free
6.2%
Rate of Duty
Prefer- TemJSEPA
ential porary
A
(Free)
(Free)
A
2.08%
5.2%
* Free
WTO
2. Of other precious metal
(1) Of platinum
6.2%
5.2%
(2) Other
6.6%
5.4%
2.08%
* Free
2.16%
* Free
-021
1) Chains for watches, spectacles or pince-nez and other
ornamental chains on person
-029
2) Other
Note 1: “*Free” in Preferential rate is applicable only for the Least Developed Countries.
Note 2: “A” in JSEPA rate means that based on the Japan-Singapore Economic Partnership Agreement (JSEPA), articles originated
in Singapore were approved as duty free from the effective date of Agreement (November 30, 2002).
Note 3: Normally the order of precedence for application of tariff rates is JSEPA, Preferential, WTO, Temporary, and General, in
that order. However, Preferential rates are only eligible when conditions stipulated by law or regulations are met. Also, WTO
rates apply when those rates are lower than Temporary or General rates. Refer to “Customs Tariff Schedules of Japan”
(published by Japan Tariff Association) etc. for more complete interpretation of tariff table.
5. Related Industry Organizations
• Japan Jewelry Association
TEL: 03-3835-8567
• Gemological Association of All Japan
TEL: 03-3835-7486
• AGT Gem Laboratory
TEL: 03-3834-6586
• Association of Gemological Laboratories Japan
TEL: 03-3835-8267
• Platinum Guild International TEL: 03-3597-0255
FAX:03-3839-6599
http://www.jja.ne.jp
FAX:03-3835-7350
FAX:03-3834-6589
http://www.gaaj-zenhokyo.co.jp
http://www.giajpn.gr.jp
http://www.agl.jp
http://www.preciousplatinum.com p
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