Luxor - Egypt Tourism Authority
Transcription
Luxor - Egypt Tourism Authority
“Mankind came into being within her...” 1 Contents 2 4|Luxor 28| The Ramesseum, Mortuary 8| Luxor Today 11| East Bank Monuments 29| Medinat Habu, The Mortuary 12| Luxor Temple 15| Karnak Temples 30| Things to Do in Luxor 16| Luxor Museum 36| Practical Info in Luxor 17| Mummification Museum 41| Tourist Information Offices in Luxor 19| West Bank Monuments 42| Nile Cruises 20| The Colossi of Memnon 45| Your Journey Around Luxor 22| The Theban Necropolis, Valley of the Kings, 47| Your Journey in Egypt Continues 50| Practical Info Queens, Nobles and Workers 24| Mortuary Temple of Hatshepsut (Deir el-Bahari) Temple of Ramses II This Brochure’s Section Photos Cover: Karnak Temple p.2 Luxor Temple p.6&7 Luxor Corniche p. 10,11 Luxor Temple p.18&19 Aerial Shot of the West Bank Temple of Ramses III 55| Egypt Map Back Cover| Luxor Map 3 LUxor Waset is the pattern of every city… mankind came into being within her, to found every city in her true name…’ Ancient Egyptian Text Medieval Egyptian scholars were fascinated with the traces of Pharaonic antiquity evident in Luxor. But it wasn’t until the 1822 decoding of the Rosetta Stone, discovered by Napoleon’s troops north of modern-day Cairo in the Nile Delta, that the key to hieroglyphics was unlocked, and the monuments could be understood in their true historical context. Luxor has provided a nearly permanent home to international archeological missions, and their discoveries have captivated generations, the most well-known of which was Howard Carter’s dramatic discovery of the tomb of Tutankhamen in 1922. Even now, in a continually unfolding tale, amazing discoveries are being made. Some scholars predict that 70 percent of the glories of Luxor’s ancient past still lie buried beneath the sands. 4 The hot, dry climate of Luxor, and the relative obscurity of these monuments for millennia, has given future generations a priceless gift by helping to preserve these wonders. At a staggering distance of thousands of years, we can still experience Luxor’s grandeur through the most diverse and abundant collection of antiquities on earth. It’s an amazing legacy - some 450 tombs, a constellation of temples and other buildings, and rich inscriptions and paintings, some of whose colors are still as fresh as the day they were painted. Preserving this priceless heritage while making it accessible to millions of annual visitors is a complicated and delicate task. Luxor is an open-air museum and one of the greatest archaeological sites in the world… The Valley of the Kings, with its 62 fabulous royal tombs, can bring us back to the greatest discovery in the history of archaeology, the tomb of Tutankhamun.. Luxor T emple The ancient Greeks called it Thebes, ‘city of a hundred gates’, and its present name derives from al-Uqsur, the Arabic word meaning ‘palaces’. But to its ancient inhabitants, Luxor was known as Waset ‘The City’, greatest of all capitals. Statue of Ramses II at Karnak Temple Home to one of the earliest flowerings of human civilization, at its height, Luxor’s population reached one million, and the wealth, knowledge and technical abilities of its people made it a center of the ancient world for more than half a millennium. When its glories at long last began to give way to Memphis in the north, around 1085 BC, Luxor had held sway over ancient Egypt for over 2000 years. When the Greek historian Herodotus visited in 450BC, he told tales of a fabled Thebes whose long age of glory already belonged in the past. 5 6 LUXOR TODAY 7 LUXOR TODAY Luxor’s ancient history is so remarkably dominant that many guidebooks forget to mention the town’s modern-day beauty, with gardens, greenery and graceful colonial-era buildings. Straddling the Nile 670km south of Cairo, Luxor has some 450,000 inhabitants, mostly involved in farming, tourism or antiquities-related work. The relative absence of industry means the desert air is pure and dry, ideal weather for preserving the treasures of this massive open-air museum. The lifeblood of the ancient Egyptian civilization, the mighty Nile River cuts Luxor in half, and much of your time in Luxor will be spent not far from its banks. The urbanized East Bank is home to most of Luxor’s tourist infrastructure and temples, including the Karnak and Luxor Temples, many hotels, ranging from spartan chic to refined elegance, and transport infrastructure including the train station and airport. The city center area on the East Bank is fairly compact, and much can be explored on foot. A range of transport options, from ferries, feluccas and boat taxis, to bikes, taxis and horse carriages, make accessing the more distant sights simple. 8 Across the river on the West Bank sometimes referred to as the Theban Necropolis, and long used as a burial ground for ancient Luxor’s rulers is situated the Valleys of the Kings, Queens and Nobles. Less urbanized than the East Bank, the West Bank’s idyllic countryside gives travelers a glimpse of how Luxor appeared in days gone by. While most hotels are located across the river, the West Bank offers some delightful hotel options, particularly for those looking for more of a rural or off the beaten-track option. A regular passenger ferry connects the two banks, alongside private boats that can be hired. A road bridge links Luxor’s East and West Banks 9km south of town. Moving around the West Bank takes a bit more planning, and most visitors choose to move around by bus or taxi, though most of the major sites can be visited with the assistance of a sturdy bicycle. Tip Throughout its long history, Luxor Temple served as the dwelling place of a form of the god Amen closely associated with ideas of fertility and rejuvenation. Luxor temple 9 10 EAST BANK MONUMENTS 11 LUXOR TEMPLE Located in the middle of modern- boat that during religious celebrations day Luxor, with its main axis running was paraded through town. Under parallel to the Nile, Luxor Temple is Roman Emperor Diocletian (284 the town’s centerpiece. - 305 AD), the temple became a military camp. Largely built by Amenophis III (1417-1379BC) and Ramses II (1304- Some 1237BC), and dedicated to the period, located on the south end Theban Triad (Amun-Min, Mut and of the main axis, were recently Khonsu), this temple has a richly restored. Diocletian was known for layered history, much of which can persecuting Christians, but a couple still be discovered in its inscriptions of centuries after his death portions and carvings. Alexander the Great of the temple were converted once converted one of the antechambers more, this time into churches. into a sanctuary for the ‘sacred boat of Amun’, a replica of the god’s solar 12 rare paintings from this Later still, the Mosque of Abul Haggag (named after the 12th century Baghdad-born mystic who lived and died here) was built alongside a temple wall. Luxor Temple was largely covered in sand until the late 19th century, and as a result is wonderfully preserved. Like other local monuments, it owes its survival partly to a favorable climate, but above all to the mastery of its builders. The Egyptians called their temples ‘the houses of eternity’ and they have, so far, outlasted time Al-Nasseriyya St. 095/235 7209 6am-10pm summer 6am-9pm winter Time Out Stop by the café located within the temple walls beneath a grove of trees, overlooking the regal Avenue of the Sphinx. The small adjacent bookstore is well-stocked with Egypt-related publications in several languages as well as other sundries. In case you need a break from antiquity, Luxor Temple is located next door to the Winter Palace, and in front of the town’s souk. Avenue of Sphinx in front of Luxor Temple 13 Tip sound and light. Not to be missed, this dramatic narration, offered nightly in several languages, helps make sense of karnak’s long and complicated history. but the best part is the amazing experience of walking around the temple by the light of the moon and stars. check with your hotel for show times in your preferred language. tickets may be purchased in advance or on-site. 095/237 2241 www.soundandlight.com.eg Tip “the karnak temple is so vast and so grandiose that the egyptians must have designed it for men one hundred feet tall,” said jean-francois champollion, the frenchman who first deciphered Egyptian hieroglyphs Karnak Temple is the town’s centerpiece 14 KARNAK TEMPLES In 1798, Napoleon paid Egypt a visit, hoping to add it to France’s empire. Troops were dispatched to secure Upper Egypt, and on January 27th, 1799, during the long march south along the Nile, the soldiers caught sight of Karnak rising defiantly from the sands. ‘Without an order being given,’ wrote one lieutenant, ‘the men formed their ranks and presented arms, to the accompaniment of the drums and the bands’. Karnak’s aweinspiring power is timeless, a tribute to those who built and understood it as the home of the gods. Located to the north of the city center, Karnak is perhaps the largest religious complex ever constructed. Its original name was Ipet Isut, meaning ‘the most select of places’. Over the course of two millennia, it was enlarged by consecutive Pharaohs until it comprised an area of 247 acres. Centered on the Temple of Amun (begun during the 11th Dynasty, 2134-1991 BC), it served as a spiritual center but also as an economic hub, containing administrative offices, treasuries, palaces, bakeries, breweries, granaries and schools. Karnak’s grandest feature is the Great Hypostyle Hall, but its wonders include the Chapel of Senusert, which dates back to the Middle Kingdom, the obelisks of Thutmose I and Hatshepsut, and the socalled botanical garden of Thutmose III, decorated with reliefs of the plants, trees and animals the Pharaoh brought home from his military expeditions. But the massive compound contains countless treasures beyond these. Take a walk around Karnak’s perimeter, where fewer travelers tend to venture. The ground is strewn with inscribed blocks and fragments of statues, where pieces of an age-old puzzle still await reassembly, and treasures await discovery. Al-Nasseriyya St. 095/238 0270 6am-5.30pm Oct-Apr, to 6am May-Sep 15 LUXOR MUSEUM Why visit a museum in Luxor, you may ask, when the entire town can be thought of as an open-air museum with antiquities and treasures lying almost everywhere you look? The answer is that every item in this small, permanent exhibit is a priceless masterpiece, lit and displayed to perfection. Here you’ll find key discoveries from decades of excavations, the space and quiet to enjoy them, and the descriptions to understand them. Located on the corniche about half way between the Karnak and Luxor Temples, the museum can be an ideal break on a journey between the two. One of the recurrent themes in temple art is the Pharaoh in his chariot, with arms extended, his bow and arrow drawn. In the Luxor Museum you’ll see the bows and arrows and a perfectly intact chariot, its leatherbound wheels and wooden yoke looking as ready as ever for a pair of feisty steeds. On a softly illuminated platform in a darkened room lies 16 the mummy of an unknown Pharaoh, whose strange fate was to travel to Canada in the luggage of a 19th century tourist as a souvenir, and is now reunited with his ancestral home. Al-Nasseriyya St. 095/238 0269 Oct.-Apr.,9am-1pm/4pm-9pm, MaySept. 9am-1pm/5.00pm-10pm. MUMMIFICATION MUSEUM Across from the Luxor Museum, take the stairs from the corniche down towards the Nile, and spend a lively half-hour contemplating the immortal dead. Aside from humans, some animals sacred to the gods enjoyed the status of mummification, including crocodiles, fully-grown and infant, rams and baboons. The art and science of mummification was an Egyptian specialty, and this tastefully organized little museum shows how, and with what ingredients, it was done. . Al-Nasseriyya St. 095/237 0062 except Fridays, 9am2pm and 5pm-10pm. Mummification Museum 17 18 WEST BANK MONUMENTS 19 THE COLOSSI OF MEMNON This pair of time-worn monoliths on the main road from the river, standing guard over the threshold of the Theban Necropolis, are all that remains of a temple built by Amenophis III around 2400 years ago. At 18m high and weighing 1000 tons, they have remained strong and steady despite years of a change in their surrounding landscape. Surrounded by fields, the Nile waters rose each year, until upriver dams ended the annual floods in 1964 to reach the Colossi’s feet. Legend has it that they could once sing; a whistling sound documented by the ancient Greeks was probably produced as the statues’ stones, warmed by the sun’s early morning rays, gradually expanded and rubbed against one another along an existing crack. Outraged that they wouldn’t sing for him, Roman Emperor Septimus Severus (193-211 AD) repaired 20 the crack and left them silent. A stele at the Egyptian Museum in Cairo poetically describes the temple as being built from ‘white sandstone, with gold throughout, a floor covered with silver, and doors covered with electrum’. It takes a visit to the Colossi to truly understand the experience of this description. . Tip To locate the Colossi, ask for the antiquities inspectorate ticket office. They are only a few feet behind it. The Colossi of Memnon 21 THE THEBAN NECROPOLIS The Theban Necropolis is the sprawling, secluded cemetery located in the hills and wadis (valleys) of the Nile’s West Bank. The ancients called it ‘the place of truth’ and the ‘Western Lands’, where life’s journey ended and another, everlasting one, began. When French author André Malraux remarked that ‘Egypt invented eternity’, he spoke a poetic truth, since Egyptian civilization was based on a compelling belief in the afterlife. For the Ancient Egyptians, the sun’s daily transit from east to west, its night-time disappearance and its return at dawn, was a symbol of both inevitable death and eternal renewal. At first, eternity was reserved for pharaohs; only those who could afford proper mummification and well-equipped tombs could achieve immortality. Over the course of several dynasties, however, funerary rites became available to a wider public, starting with high-ranking officials, but also eventually extending to funerary workers. The royals are buried in a rocky labyrinth, whose inaccessibility helped protect their remains. The vivid drawings and inscriptions of tomb interiors were not mere decorations, but prayers and incantations addressed to the gods, along with celebrations of the deceased’s familylife and achievements. Against the odds, and benefited by Luxor’s warm, dry climate, many are still intact. But the imprint of millions of 22 annual visitors has taken its toll. Some tombs are under restoration, others allow only limited access. Check with your guide or ticket vendors for the latest information about which are open for viewing. The Valley of the Kings, offering a plethora of splendid tombs, warrants return visits. Nearby lies the Valley of the Queens, once known as Ta- Set-Neferu, ‘the place of the beautiful ones’. The tombs of the royal ladies and their children are less in grandeur than the kings’, but equal in the artistry and mastery of their inscriptions. While the burial grounds of highranking officials, the Valley of the Nobles, was more accessible, and therefore more subject to raiding a few important examples remain. This astounding necropolis suffered from tragic devastation as a fashion for everything Egyptian swept Europe in the early 19th century, and the resulting craze for artifacts was fed by unscrupulous tomb raiders long before the principles of modernday archaeology were developed. Visitors through the ages have left disfiguring graffiti scratched into walls and statues, destroying artwork that thousands of years had spared. The phenomenon is not new; people have always left their mark, and Luxor’s tombs and temples bear examples of ancient Greek, Coptic and Latin graffiti, as well as the flowery script of 19th century travelers. Today’s visitors, however, are able to enjoy these priceless treasures in the atmosphere of respect and reverence that the monuments deserve. bs in the tom One of gs in K e th of Valley 23 MOR TUARY TEMPLE OF HATSHEPSUT (DEIR EL-baha ri) Hatshepsut Tapınağı 24 Set in a curving bank of steep cliffs with a commanding view of the river valley, the Temple of Hatshepsut was built in perfect harmony with its majestic surroundings. Seen from a distance, its three-level façade looks almost futuristic testimony to the timelessness of great art. Designed by Hatshepsut’s steward and architect Senenmut, it took eight years and tremendous manpower to build a fitting tribute to the woman who ruled Egypt as pharaoh for nearly half a century (15031452BC). Hatshepsut called it ‘the splendor of splendors’, and some still consider it one of the most striking architectural works on earth. 6 am-4.30 pm Oct-Apr, to 5 pm May-Sep The faces of the statues decorating the colonnades show traces of ochre, a reminder that these monuments were once vividly colored and must have presented an even more dazzling spectacle than they do today. Hatshepsut Temple 25 Deir el-Medina 26 town of the unnamed worke rs (dei r el -Medina) While the tombs of the Theban Necropolis seem almost miraculous in their construction, they were created by human hands, sweat and blood. Deir el-Medina is the town and burial place of the mostly unnamed workers whose craftsmanship ensured the lasting glory of their pharaohs. Recent excavations show the footprints of their humble dwellings, and while their tombs are small, they were decorated with the same artistry and skill as the burial chambers of their employers. The site includes a small temple built by Amenophis III, rebuilt 1100 years later by Ptolemy IV.. 6am-4.30 pm Oct-Apr, to 5pm May-Sep 27 The rameseum , mortua ry temple of ramses ii For the pharaohs, temple building was a way of thanking the gods for military triumphs, demonstrating their greatness to their people, and ensuring their memory would be honored in posterity. Ramses II (19th Dynasty, 1304-1237BC) was a prolific builder, and the great temple at Abu Simbel was amongst his most exceptional works. While the Ramesseum lies half in ruins, it is nevertheless one of the loveliest sites in Egypt. The temple precinct is scattered with shards of ancient pottery and fallen blocks, the most sensational of which is a large sculpture of Ramses II’s muscular torso. His monolith, carved into 28 a single piece of Aswan granite, once stood almost 17 meters high, dominating the local countryside. Even now the Ramesseum, with its wind-gnarled trees full of chirping birds, has an ambiance full of the romance of a great, but fallen, power. 6am-4.30pm Oct-Apr, to 5pm May-Sep Temple of Ramses II medinat habu, the mortua ry temple of ramses ii Grandiose and gracefully proportioned, set apart from the majority of the other West Bank buildings, Medinat Habu is second in size only to the Great Temple at Karnak. Ramses III admired and imitated his ancestor Ramses II’s style of building, and like him was an aggressively successful military leader. Statues of the lionheaded Sekhmet, fierce goddess of revenge. The first pylon and inner court graphically depict the pharaoh’s victories over the Libyans and Phoenicians. The complex was added by later rulers, and the decoration of the second court - dedicated to religious matters and later made into a church - creates a very different mood. Remnants of its original mud-brick enclosure wall are interspersed with the ruins of Jeme, the Coptic town inhabited for centuries and abandoned around 800AD. Medinat Habu Mortuary Temple of Ramses III, hieroglyphics 29 Thin gs to do in lu xor Shoping Luxor’s souks (markets) offer all sorts of souvenirs, clothing and jewelry, some of it kitsch, some fine and uniquely crafted. As you visit the necropolis, now as in centuries past, souvenir sellers will display statuettes of the animal-headed gods made of alabaster and stone. The Valleys of the Kings and Queens are dotted with alabaster workshops, where this translucent local stone is handcrafted into vases, bowls and statues. The mud-brick buildings are covered with brightly colored paintings showing scenes of ancient and modern Egyptian life. The main souk, with its recently widened central artery (entrance near the east side of the Luxor Temple) is fragrant with spices, perfumes and incense, and open from around 10am until midnight. Near its northern end, on the way to the Luxor Museum, the local market begins. Especially on Tuesday mornings, townspeople flock there to buy groceries and fresh produce. 30 The Nile corniche also offers colorful shops and mini-bazaars. Be sure and take the stairs located at various intervals along the Corniche to the lower, river-side level, near where Luxor’s cruise ships dock. There you’ll find more shops, restaurants and cafés in a pleasant pedestrian-only environment Tea Time For a taste of Victorian luxury, visit the Sofitel Winter Palace for high tea (4-6pm daily), served in a grand salon overlooking one of Luxor’s oldest and loveliest gardens. Built in 1886, the Winter Palace helped establish Luxor as a glamorous winter spot for Europe’s well-to-do and formed the back-drop for many a diamond-drenched party. A variety of cafés with lovely river side ambience are located along the lower river walkway along the East Bank corniche. Bookstores Gaddis Bookstore, located beside the Winter Palace at the southern end of the Luxor Temple, is a century-old family business that began as one of the first Egyptian-owned photographic studios. A wonderful collection of prints from the Gaddis archives are on sale dating from the 1920 -1930s, in addition to an eclectic selection of souvenirs, jewelry and clothing. 9am-10pm, Closed June and July. 095/238 7042 For a variety of Egypt-related books and daily newspapers, visit the Abboudi Bookstore, between the southern end of Luxor Temple and the Winter Palace. 9am-10pm 095/237 2390 Collection of souvenirs 31 The Luxor Marathon In 1977, Egyptologist Ahmed Moussa discovered an ancient inscription describing a 100km footrace for the pharaoh’s soldiers. With this historic sporting event in mind, the first annual Luxor Marathon was first held in 1993 and is now a prominent international event, attracting some 2000 participants each year. The Luxor Marathon is held in the cool and dry month of February on the scenic West Bank. More info: www.egyptianmarathon.com. Moulid of Abul Hagag Islam doesn’t have saints per se, but every village has a holy person, or wali, in its history whose life is honored with annual celebrations. The moulids have a carnival-like atmosphere, and the Moulid of Abul Haggag, centered on the Abul Haggag mosque in Luxor Temple, is held three weeks prior to the Muslim month of Ramadan (during the summer months for the next few years). During the featured procession, local Sufi brotherhoods display their banners, and in the case of Abul Haggag, a wooden boat is carried aloft, echoing a pharaonic tradition. 32 Tip Coptic Excursions St. Mark brought Christianity to Egypt in the first century AD. Some of the earliest churches and monasteries were founded within the walls of temples. Luxor’s Coptic community and traditions remain vibrant. Some masses are still celebrated in their original language, which is closely linked to that of the pharaohs. Historic texts say that the Holy Family traveled through Egypt, seeking refuge from the death-threats of Jerusalem’s King Herod. The stops along their way became the sites of religious communities, including Deir El Muharraq. Between August 7-21, thousands of pilgrims attend the Feast of the Consecration of the Church of the Virgin. On the 11th of November, the Church of St. George holds its annual celebration. Egypt’s churches (and many of its monasteries) welcome visitors all year-round. Tip Up, Up and Away. Have an experience you’ll never forget riding a hot air balloon and taking pictures of your great memories from the Luxor sky, which is sure to multiply your awe with the magnificence of the city’s history from up above. If you don’t mind waking before dawn (and don’t suffer from vertigo!), several local companies provide 45-minute hot-air balloon rides featuring a privileged, bird’s-eye view of the West Bank monuments. Ask your hotel concierge or any Luxor travel agent for details. Hot air balloon over Luxor’s West Bank 33 Felucca on the Nile 34 LUXOR Library and Cultural Center Inaugurated in 2007, the library offers a selection of Egyptology related books, a well-equipped maproom, and multi-media presentations describing local history. A children’s play, study area and internet facilities make the library a welcome addition to the community and a place for amateur Egyptologists of every nationality to deepen their knowledge. Karnak Temple St. (Shara Maa’bad al- Karnak). 10.30am-9pm except Mondays 095/237 3086, 095/237 3142. a stop for a quick bite, you can visit the Nubian tent. Get a henna design, or dress up in Nubian attire; the Nubian village will present you with unforgettable fun. 095/928 0688 Felucca rides For a leisurely journey, choose a felucca (Nile sailboat) available near the ferry landing and at intervals along the corniche. Book it for an hour or two, take a picnic, and meander along the Nile’s lush, still untouched banks powered only by wind and currents. Prices vary depending on the number of occupants Nubian vilage Live the Nubian lifestyle in the Nubian Village. With their unique customs and lifestyle, a fascinating experience awaits you 7km south of Luxor city center. Watch Nubian women making handicrafts, and after 35 practical info in lu xor Geting there and away EgyptAir has daily flights between Cairo, Luxor and Aswan. Luxor’s International Airport is located about 20 minutes from city center. 095/237 2306. Trains leave Luxor to Cairo and Aswan several times daily, some with overnight compartments offered by Abela Egypt Sleeping Train (www. sleepingtrains.com). Luxor Train Station: 095/237 0259. The bus station is located approximately 1km from the airport. Tickets for the bus can be purchased at office, near the train station. Buses heading to Cairo leave early in the morning. Be sure to book ahead of time. There are six daily buses that go to Hurghada and a daily bus to Sharm el Sheikh. Bus Station: 095/232 2218 36 Limousine services are available in Luxor. Several companies offer you to rent a car, with a driver, for one or more days, if you have your own tailor-made plans. Local Transportation Horse Drawn Carriages Walking along the Nile corniche, men in horse-drawn carriages call out, ‘caleche! caleche!’ hoping to offer you a ride. Also known by their Arabic name, hantour, these old-fashioned carriages provide a romantic and convenient means of transport. Be sure and agree on a price, and specify the currency, beforehand with the driver. River-Going Transport One of Luxor’s special pleasures is getting out on the wondrous river. With the local bridge located 12km south of town, most locals opt for the large and affordable (1LE) public ferry running regularly from the landing in front of the Luxor Temple, to the West Bank, operating from 6am-11pm. If you’re in a hurry and willing to pay a little more (5-10LE), you’ll find colorfully decorated motor boats docked adjacent to the ferry landing that can be hired for the crossing. Taxis are plentiful in Luxor. It’s always better to settle with your driver on a price before setting off.. Visa Extensions Visit the passport office (Saturday-Thursday 9am-1pm) on the south end of the corniche, across from the Steigenberger Hotel. Passport Office 095/238 0885 Tip For the more energetic, the West Bank is perfect for cycling, and bicycles are available for rental near the ferry landing, from hotels, and other locations along the main roads. Horse-drawn carriages are convenient in Luxor 37 Comunications Telephones Egypt’s three major mobile phone carriers (Vodaphone, MobiNil, Etisalat) are represented in Luxor, selling SIM and charge cards should you desire local usage. Egypt Telecom, on the south end of the Nile Corniche (Khaled Ibn el Walid St., next to the Steigenberger Hotel) is one of several places where you can make an international call, apart from hotels. International calling cards are also widely available. Note that Egypt’s country code is +2, and Luxor’s area code is 095. Postal Services The main Luxor post office is located across from the entry to the tourist souk, behind Luxor temple. It’s closed on Fridays. 095/237 5158 www.egyptpost.org 38 Tip WI-MAX Technology-savvy tourists will be glad to know that the city of Luxor has now established Wi-Fi hotspots in key areas around the city to allow easy access to the Internet. The wireless coverage spans a 7km distance along the Nile, where there’s a high concentration of hotels, Nile cruise ships and cafés, in addition to Al-Karnak temple and the Luxor Museum. To take advantage of the wireless Internet service, you can buy scratch cards that are sold to tourists in places close to Wi-Fi covered areas, starting from 5 euros ($7.2) for a one-hour card, to 15 euros ($21.7) for the whole day. Luxor temple and the Nile 39 Banks and atm services Many Luxor Banks host ATM machines (including several on the corniche) and offer foreign currency exchange services, in addition to Thomas Cook (beside the Winter Palace), and the adjacent American Express. American Express Corniche el Nile 095/237 8333 Banque Misr Karnak Temple St., 19888 Useful Numbers Tourist Police 126 or 095 237 6620 Police 122 Fire 180 Ambulance 123 Telephone directory 140 HSBC Bank Khaled Ibn El Walid St., Corniche El Nile 095/235 7853 CIB Bank Khaled Ebn El Walid St., Plaza Center 19666 40 Old Winter Palace bar Fod and Entertainment Luxor has a wide range of cafés, restaurants, and selfcatering establishments, ranging from top-end dining to fast-food to small local eateries serving Egyptian dishes. While most of the restaurants in Luxor serve local cuisine, there are also a host of international options available. After a day spent enjoying the local sights, a wide range of cultural events awaits you in the evening. Not to be missed is the distinctive Saidi music, making use of the mizmar, or twin pipe clarinet. Belly dance and the famous Egyptian Galabiya shows are some of the night-life activities available in hotels across Luxor. Health There are several well-equipped hospitals in Luxor ready to help in a medical emergency. Pharmacies, many of which have English speaking staff, are easy to find around town. All hotels have a doctor on call, and all cruise ships include a staff member certified in First Aid. Luxor International Hospital Luxor City Centre, Hospital St., 095/238 7194/3/2 Tourists who can’t enjoy their travels without their accompanying pets can enjoy peace of mind while in Luxor, thanks to animal care centers that have recently been established. Brooke Hospital for Animals El-Khotabaa Village 095/238 1305,095/928 1100,095/236 5051 Egyptian Tourist Authority (ETA) Tourist Information Offices Visit Luxor’s ETA offices for event updates and friendly assistance in several languages. Head office Le bureau principale : Beside Luxor railway station 095/237 3294 Luxor station: Inside railway station of Luxor, in tickets hall 095/237 0259 Luxor museum: In front of Luxor museum 095/928 0004 Luxor International Airport: Inside the International Luxor Airport 095/237 2306 www.egypt.travel 41 Nile Cruises The pharaohs sometimes visited their Nile-side temples by royal barge, and boat traffic along the river remains the most dramatic way to reach the monuments. Since 1869, when Thomas Cook and Son launched their Upper Egypt excursions, steamships were popular with those who wished to travel in style, and see the sites at a comfortable pace. While some of today’s cruise ships are nearly as well-appointed as the royal barge, there are packages to suit every budget, offering itineraries of varying lengths. Several jewellike monuments are located on the banks of the river between Luxor 42 and Aswan, including the Temple of Khnum at Esna, the Temple of falcon-headed Horus at Edfu, and the temple of the crocodile god Sobek at Kom Ombo. All may be visited by car from Luxor, as well as by cruise ship to Aswan, south of Luxor, whose attractions also merit an extended stay. Tip From Aswan you may embark on a 3-4 night Lake Nasser cruise to Abu Simbel, visiting the monuments of Nubia along the way. A Cruise on the Nile 43 Luxor is easy to get to from Alexandria, Aswan, Cairo, Sharm el-Sheikh and Siwa. To make a longer, more unforgettable, journey, why not add two or three of these fabulous destinations together? Your Journey in Egypt continues … DAndAra and Abydos Temples Aruond Luxor Dandara, accessible via a 65km drive north from Luxor, offers a glimpse of the Egyptian countryside with its palm groves, sugarcane fields and traditional rural lifestyle. Located on a site settled since the Old Kingdom (2613-2181BC), this imposing temple complex was dedicated to Hathor, ‘The Great Mother’, goddess of music, beauty and love. Many visitors continue by road from Dandara to Abydos, 100km north of Luxor, a sacred ancient pilgrimage site, and center of the cult of Osiris, god of death and resurrection. The Temple of Seti I (19th dynasty) is built in white limestone and its seven sanctuaries - dedicated to Horus Isis, Osiris, Amun-Ra, Ra-Harakhte, Ptah and Seti himself - are decorated with extremely from fine bas-reliefs. The daily convoy by road for Dandara and Abydos iew he v Luxor’s T assembles at 6pm. The temples are also accessible via a cruise ship of s one staurant from Luxor re e l i N 44 THE red sea In just over four hours by car from Luxor, you arrive at Safaga on the coral-studded Red Sea coast. You may well want to stay longer to enjoy Egypt’s breathtaking trilogy of desert, mountains and turquoise sea. In less than 5 hours of driving, or an hour by air, on a beautifully paved road that pierces through valleys and mountains, you can head from Luxor to one of the most charming Red Sea cities, Hurghada. Intrepid travelers may want to head 40km south of Marsa Alam to Wadi el Gemal (‘valley of the camels’) National Park, one of Egypt’s many protected areas, for untouched and unforgettable desert landscapes. Further north, the popular resort and yearround residential community of El-Gouna is built on manmade islands surrounded by crystalline lagoons. Its lively town center features hotels, restaurants and shopping venues, in addition to the resort’s excellent golf course, private airstrip and marina. . iver at Corals D Sea the Red Aruond Luxor Port Gha lib marina in Marsa A lam Tip Located 285km north of Luxor, Hurghada boasts a scenic coastline and various watersports. Some 50km south of Safaga is the seaport of Quseir with its 16th century Ottoman fortress built to protect trade links with India. TIP Mangrove trees line portions of the rugged, pristine coast near Marsa Alam, 200 km south of Safaga. Once a fishing village, Marsa Alam is a must-see spot for divers thanks to its sunken shipwrecks and teeming aquatic life. 45 ASWAN Aswan is the gate to Nubia, a realm of marvelous calm and the favorite destination of the Aga Khan and Francois Mitterrand to name but two famous people who succumbed tine Elephan to its wonderfully Island relaxing charms. There are ancient temples, the incredible high dam, Elephantine island and ancient monasteries all there to help you create the holiday story of lifetime. You can get to Aswan by boat from Luxor, flying direct from Alexandria, or by vehicle from Luxor or Cairo. 46 Philae Island 24 hours in Alexandria Start with breakfast outside the Hotel Cecil, overlooking the magnificent double harbour of Alexandria. Ride a double decker bus to the Jewelry Museum and make sure you see the ex-king’s diamond studded gardening tools. Keep going to take in the excellent Mahmoud Said modern art museum followed by the Library of Alexandria. Whizz along the Corniche for a top fish lunch at Abu Qir, and have coffee on the way back at stunning Salamak Hotel in Montazeh Bay. You should now squeeze in a visit to the Catacombs and Pompey’s Pillar, before doing some shopping at the antique buying area of Attareen. Take in traditional music at the Opera house, and dinner at a great Greek restaurant downtown. IN Egypt tazah Mon k Par 47 ess y Fortr Old Cit aly of ‘Sh SHARM el-Sheikh Sharm el-Sheikh is the latest addition to the journey destinations of Egypt. Known originally as one of the world’s number one diving spots, it has great wreck and coral diving and is situated on the tip of the Sinai Peninsula. Nearby lies the immense charm of desert and mountain scenery and the ancient attraction of St. Catherine’s monastery and Mt. Sinai. To get to Sharm el-Sheikh from Alexandria is easy either by a short flight or by bus or long distance taxi via Cairo. 48 SIWA If you have time, Siwa makes for a great journey into the heart of the Western Desert. Only three or four hours along a good road from Marsa Matrouh, Siwa is an oasis town surrounded by large saline lakes of majestic beauty. Siwa is home to the ancient Oracle temple where Alexander the Great went after conquering Egypt. Other attractions of Siwa include hot springs, Roman ruins, the mud walled town of Shali and a magnificent eco-lodge where Prince Charles and many other luminaries have stayed. Bay Sharks s of Pyramid Giza see pag e 42 y Night Cairo b CAIRO Cairo usually features in any Egyptian experience. It is has, after all, the only remaining wonder of the ancient world the Pyramids, as well as the great Egyptian museum, the marvels of Islamic Cairo and the Citadel, the Nile, as well as numerous restaurants and nightspots. Cairo can be reached from Alexandria by the Alex desert road or by train. There is a rapid first class service that arrives in under three hours and provides for a meal along the route if required 49 Practical Info Location : 31 05 to 22 N 25 02 to 34 56 E Population: More than 83 million Large cities: Cairo (18 million), Alexandria (4 million), Aswan and Suez Egypt Toda y Since the end of the nineteenth century, Egypt has been evolving at a very high speed. Its political, economic and cultural life has undergone striking changes. From the inscription of the first hieroglyph to the construction of the new hi-tech Smart Village, Egypt has always been a pioneer on the frontier for emerging information technologies in the Arab world. Egypt is one of the oldest countries in the world, its people are conscious of their ancient origin and proud of their heritage. This 50 makes the Egyptian provider of services for the tourist both experienced and able to anticipate what any tourist is likely to want to see. The Egyptian people have suffered under several waves of invasion, but have never been broken. Their talent is in flexibility and thinking up novel solutions to problems. With this is mind and a flexible approach of your own, you will have a marvelous time on holiday. Entry and Depart ure Visitors will need a single-visit visa to enter Egypt. The visa is valid for 90 days. If the planned trip involves travel in and out of Egypt over the same period, then the best option is a multiple-visit visa. Obtaining a visa is straightforward. It can be arranged in advance through one of the Egyptian consulates dotted around the world, or purchased on entry at airports. All visitors will need to have a passport which must have at least six months remaining of its validity from the date of entry. Egypt applies strict customs rules about bringing items such as alcohol and cigarettes into the country, so to avoid any misunderstandings it is probably advisable to buy at an airport shop. Under no circumstances should you attempt to leave the country with antiquities Health Electricity There are no vaccinations needed to visit Egypt. Sunburn and dehydration can be avoided by using plenty of sun cream, wearing light cotton clothing and a hat, and drinking lots of water. The health care facilities in Egypt are generally good and it is advisable to have health insurance. Egypt’s electricity works on 220v with sockets being of the two-pin European mainland variety. It’s a good idea to pack an adaptor if planning to use personal items like mobile phone chargers. Comunications Egypt has embraced internet services and now it is easy to go online at hotels, offices and internet cafes. Egypt has widespread wi fi service available. The telephone system is efficient and visitors should have no problem in finding public phones that take cards. You can buy visitor mobile cards that enable you to use your mobile. You can buy stamps and post your letters at post offices or from your hotel. Post offices are closed on Fridays Information and Booking Flying to Egypt, is relatively straightforward. The main airline, EgyptAir (www.egyptair.com), runs regular and efficient service to Cairo, Alexandria, Luxor and Aswan from airports around the world. It also provides inexpensive domestic flights. Some visitors choose to arrive by road or by sea. Cruise ships often make Egypt a key stop on their itineraries. Booking holidays or short trips to Egypt is easily done via links from the Egyptian Tourist Authority’s website (www.egypt.travel), online direct with local agents, or by visiting your nearest travel agent. Also check (www.eha.com) to choose your hotel. 51 Language The official language of Egypt is Arabic and other languages are widely spoken too, especially in tourist areas.. Talk like an Egyptian A little bit of Egyptian Arabic will go a long way as you meet locals during your trip. Here are some Arabic words to help you get started. Aywa ..................... yes La .......................... no shukran ................. thank you Min fadlak ............. please afwan ............................. you’re welcome salaam aleikum ..... hello ahlan wasahlan ..... welcome maalesh ................. no problem 52 Every area of Egypt is different but there are similarities. For example, it is customary to pay after receiving a service not before- be it a drink, a meal or a taxi ride. Also you will find a level of trust absent in more ‘developed’ countries. If you go into a shop and buy a paper and find you haven’t enough money the shop keeper will trust you to return with the right amount later- and let you take the paper with you!. Money, ATMs and Credit Cards The currency of Egypt is the Egyptian pound, which is divided into 100 piasters. Cash is generally easily obtained from ATMs, which can be found in larger towns and cities. Most of the major hotels and stores accept credit cards, such as Visa and Mastercard, along with travellers’ cheques and certain foreign currencies like Euro, Sterling and Dollars. If venturing off the beaten track you will find that generally only the Egyptian pound in cash will be accepted. Public Holidays Holidays include the Coptic Christmas on January 7, Labour Day on May 1, Revolution Day on July 23, Armed Forces Day on October 6. The Islamic New Year, the Birth of the Prophet and Ramadan, the major religious period of fasting that precedes the Bairam Feast, change every year. Busines Hours Government, and banks from 9am to for Fridays, holidays. administrative offices are generally open 2pm each day, except Saturdays and public Most shops are open from 10am to 10pm every day except Sunday. Please note that all these times may vary in shopping centres and during Ramadan. Most historic sites and museums are open from 9am to 5pm daily, and often until 6pm in the summer. Time Egypt is two hours ahead of GMT, except at the start of May and the end of September when it is three hours ahead. may have a limited amount of time to explore is to travel from one city to another by air. There are also long distance buses and trains available. Travel within cities is probably best done by taxi or a minibus, although car hire is an option. Hiring a car with a guide by the day is a good idea if you have a tight schedule and want to see all the sights. If planning to go into the desert it is a must to take a guide to avoid becoming disorientated. Cairo also has an underground metro system, which is a good way to travel around the city. in most of the country. December to February can be quite cold in the north. The sky is usually blue and cloudless. The temperature varies considerably in Egypt. It rains more often in Alexandria than in Aswan and Cairo. POPULATION With more than 83 million inhabitants, Egypt represents one quarter of the population of the Arab world. criminal intent. Mugging is unheard of, burglary rare. Clothing Women need to be somewhat more careful when walking alone at night, as in any country, and wearing modest clothing makes obvious sense when away from the more developed resort areas. Safety Transport CLIMATE As Egypt is such a vast country, the best way for holidaying visitors who During the summer, from March to November, the climate is hot and dry Compared to New York and London, walking the streets of even the poorest neighborhoods of Alexandria, Luxor or Cairo you will not encounter any threat of physical violence or 53 Important numbers Emergency Numbers in Egypt are very handy and can be contacted anytime. Country code +2 Egypt State Info. Service 22617345/22617344 www.sis.gov.eg Ambulance 123 Flying hospital service 02/377 66393 Fire Brigade 180 Railway Information: Cairo 02/257 53555, Alex 03/392 0010 Police 122 www.moiegypt.gov.eg Tourist Police 126 Traffic Police 128 Cairo Airport Shuttle Bus service 19970 54 Cairo Old Airport Information 02/265 5000 Cairo New Airport 02/265 2029 www.cairo-airport.com Luxor Airport 095/237 4655 Galantry of the Egyptian Egyptian people are by nature very friendly and helpful. If you stop with a map on a street corner expect to gather a few helpers. If you need to ask directions people will be very happy to give you them. Here people are generous with time, and are not bothered if you interrupt them with some requests. EgyptAir 1717 www.egyptair.com Telephone Directory 140/141 www.telecomegypt.com.eg Trunk Calls 10 Speaking Clock 150 www.luxorcity.net 55 Temperatures (°F) City Luxor Jan Feb May June August Sept Oct Mini 50 52 March 54 April 59 68 70 July 72 77 68 64 54 50 Max 73 81 84 91 93 99 100 104 95 86 77 75 Nov Dec Distances (Miles) Abu Simbel Alexandria Alexandria 911 Aswan Aswan Bahariyya Oasis Cairo Dahab El Gouna El Quseir Fayoum Oasis Giza Hurghada Luxor Marsa Alam Nuweiba Sharm Siwa Oasis el-Sheikh 162 749 Bahariyya Oasis 793 364 712 Kahire 772 139 610 226 Dahab 959 500 752 586 379 El Gouna 478 677 317 507 281 272 El Quseir 449 421 285 604 316 529 92 Fayoum Oasis 827 199 513 281 64 380 285 376 Giza 767 134 610 221 5 324 256 419 60 Hurghada 473 425 312 512 313 442 587 294 291 Luxor 275 636 113 599 448 638 204 149 404 497 203 Marsa Alam 349 595 188 798 391 612 174 82 603 460 169 199 Nuweiba 1089 456 749 537 416 43 434 526 380 322 439 635 609 Sharm El-Sheikh 864 408 702 490 480 53 384 477 329 275 390 588 559 112 Siwa Oasis 971 367 949 240 466 826 748 988 521 461 752 839 1038 778 735 Süveyş 677 222 515 309 83 211 198 290 143 88 203 402 373 237 186 549 Taba 867 412 706 499 273 87 388 480 311 278 393 592 563 43 140 739 Please note that this chart displays rough distances 56 Suez 190