Luxor - Egypt Tourism Authority

Transcription

Luxor - Egypt Tourism Authority
“Mankind came into being within her...”
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Contents
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4|Luxor
28| The Ramesseum, Mortuary
8| Luxor Today
11| East Bank Monuments
29| Medinat Habu, The Mortuary
12| Luxor Temple
15| Karnak Temples
30| Things to Do in Luxor
16| Luxor Museum
36| Practical Info in Luxor
17| Mummification Museum
41| Tourist Information Offices in Luxor
19| West Bank Monuments
42| Nile Cruises
20| The Colossi of Memnon
45| Your Journey Around Luxor
22| The Theban Necropolis, Valley of the Kings,
47| Your Journey in Egypt Continues
50| Practical Info
Queens, Nobles and Workers
24| Mortuary Temple of Hatshepsut (Deir el-Bahari)
Temple of Ramses II
This Brochure’s Section Photos
Cover: Karnak Temple
p.2 Luxor Temple
p.6&7 Luxor Corniche
p. 10,11 Luxor Temple
p.18&19 Aerial Shot of the West Bank
Temple of Ramses III
55| Egypt Map
Back Cover| Luxor Map
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LUxor
Waset is the pattern of every city…
mankind came into being within her, to
found every city in her true name…’
Ancient Egyptian Text
Medieval Egyptian scholars were fascinated with
the traces of Pharaonic antiquity evident in Luxor.
But it wasn’t until the 1822 decoding of the Rosetta
Stone, discovered by Napoleon’s troops north of
modern-day Cairo in the Nile Delta, that the key
to hieroglyphics was unlocked, and the monuments
could be understood in their true historical context.
Luxor has provided a nearly permanent home to
international archeological missions, and their
discoveries have captivated generations, the most
well-known of which was Howard Carter’s dramatic
discovery of the tomb of Tutankhamen in 1922.
Even now, in a continually unfolding tale, amazing
discoveries are being made. Some scholars predict
that 70 percent of the glories of Luxor’s ancient past
still lie buried beneath the sands.
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The hot, dry climate of Luxor, and the relative
obscurity of these monuments for millennia, has
given future generations a priceless gift by helping
to preserve these wonders. At a staggering distance
of thousands of years, we can still experience Luxor’s
grandeur through the most diverse and abundant
collection of antiquities on earth. It’s an amazing
legacy - some 450 tombs, a constellation of temples
and other buildings, and rich inscriptions and
paintings, some of whose colors are still as fresh as
the day they were painted. Preserving this priceless
heritage while making it accessible to millions of
annual visitors is a complicated and delicate task.
Luxor is an open-air
museum and one of the
greatest archaeological sites in
the world…
The Valley of the Kings, with its
62 fabulous royal tombs, can
bring us back to the greatest
discovery in the history of
archaeology, the tomb of
Tutankhamun..
Luxor T
emple
The ancient Greeks called it Thebes, ‘city of a hundred gates’, and
its present name derives from al-Uqsur, the Arabic word meaning
‘palaces’. But to its ancient inhabitants, Luxor was known as Waset
‘The City’, greatest of all capitals.
Statue of Ramses II at Karnak Temple
Home to one of the earliest flowerings of human civilization, at its
height, Luxor’s population reached one million, and the wealth,
knowledge and technical abilities of its people made it a center
of the ancient world for more than half a millennium. When its
glories at long last began to give way to Memphis in the north,
around 1085 BC, Luxor had held sway over ancient Egypt for
over 2000 years. When the Greek historian Herodotus visited in
450BC, he told tales of a fabled Thebes whose long age of glory
already belonged in the past.
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LUXOR TODAY
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LUXOR TODAY
Luxor’s ancient history is so remarkably dominant that many guidebooks
forget to mention the town’s modern-day beauty, with gardens, greenery
and graceful colonial-era buildings. Straddling the Nile 670km south of
Cairo, Luxor has some 450,000 inhabitants, mostly involved in farming,
tourism or antiquities-related work. The relative absence of industry
means the desert air is pure and dry, ideal weather for preserving the
treasures of this massive open-air museum.
The lifeblood of the ancient Egyptian civilization, the mighty Nile River
cuts Luxor in half, and much of your time in Luxor will be spent not far
from its banks. The urbanized East Bank is home to most of Luxor’s tourist
infrastructure and temples, including the Karnak and Luxor Temples,
many hotels, ranging from spartan chic to refined elegance, and transport
infrastructure including the train station and airport. The city center area on
the East Bank is fairly compact, and much can be explored on foot. A range
of transport options, from ferries, feluccas and boat taxis, to bikes, taxis
and horse carriages, make accessing the more distant sights simple.
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Across the river on the West Bank sometimes referred to as the Theban
Necropolis, and long used as a burial ground for ancient Luxor’s rulers
is situated the Valleys of the Kings, Queens and Nobles. Less urbanized
than the East Bank, the West Bank’s idyllic countryside gives travelers a
glimpse of how Luxor appeared in days gone by. While most hotels are
located across the river, the West Bank offers some delightful hotel options,
particularly for those looking for more of a rural or off the beaten-track
option. A regular passenger ferry connects the two banks, alongside private
boats that can be hired. A road bridge links Luxor’s East and West Banks
9km south of town.
Moving around the West Bank takes a bit more planning, and most visitors
choose to move around by bus or taxi, though most of the major sites can
be visited with the assistance of a sturdy bicycle.
Tip
Throughout its long history, Luxor Temple served as the dwelling place
of a form of the god Amen closely associated with ideas of fertility and
rejuvenation.
Luxor temple
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EAST BANK
MONUMENTS
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LUXOR TEMPLE
Located in the middle of modern-
boat that during religious celebrations
day Luxor, with its main axis running
was paraded through town. Under
parallel to the Nile, Luxor Temple is
Roman Emperor Diocletian (284
the town’s centerpiece.
- 305 AD), the temple became a
military camp.
Largely
built
by Amenophis
III
(1417-1379BC) and Ramses II (1304-
Some
1237BC), and dedicated to the
period, located on the south end
Theban Triad (Amun-Min, Mut and
of the main axis, were recently
Khonsu), this temple has a richly
restored. Diocletian was known for
layered history, much of which can
persecuting Christians, but a couple
still be discovered in its inscriptions
of centuries after his death portions
and carvings. Alexander the Great
of the temple were converted once
converted one of the antechambers
more, this time into churches.
into a sanctuary for the ‘sacred boat
of Amun’, a replica of the god’s solar
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rare
paintings
from
this
Later still, the Mosque of Abul
Haggag (named after the 12th century
Baghdad-born mystic who lived and
died here) was built alongside a temple
wall. Luxor Temple was largely covered
in sand until the late 19th century, and
as a result is wonderfully preserved.
Like other local monuments, it owes its
survival partly to a favorable climate,
but above all to the mastery of its
builders. The Egyptians called their
temples ‘the houses of eternity’ and
they have, so far, outlasted time
Al-Nasseriyya St.
095/235 7209
6am-10pm summer
6am-9pm winter
Time Out
Stop by the café located within the
temple walls beneath a grove of trees,
overlooking the regal Avenue of the
Sphinx. The small adjacent bookstore
is well-stocked with Egypt-related
publications in several languages as
well as other sundries. In case you
need a break from antiquity, Luxor
Temple is located next door to the
Winter Palace, and in front of the
town’s souk.
Avenue of Sphinx in front of Luxor Temple
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Tip
sound and light. Not to be
missed, this dramatic narration, offered nightly in several
languages, helps make sense of
karnak’s long and complicated
history. but the best part is the
amazing experience of walking
around the temple by the light
of the moon and stars. check
with your hotel for show times
in your preferred language.
tickets may be purchased in advance or on-site.
095/237 2241
www.soundandlight.com.eg
Tip
“the karnak temple is so vast
and so grandiose that the egyptians must have designed it for
men one hundred feet tall,” said
jean-francois champollion, the
frenchman who first deciphered
Egyptian hieroglyphs
Karnak Temple is the town’s centerpiece
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KARNAK TEMPLES
In 1798, Napoleon paid Egypt a visit, hoping to add it to France’s empire.
Troops were dispatched to secure Upper Egypt, and on January 27th,
1799, during the long march south along the Nile, the soldiers caught
sight of Karnak rising defiantly from the sands. ‘Without an order being
given,’ wrote one lieutenant, ‘the men formed their ranks and presented
arms, to the accompaniment of the drums and the bands’. Karnak’s aweinspiring power is timeless, a tribute to those who built and understood
it as the home of the gods.
Located to the north of the city center, Karnak is perhaps the largest
religious complex ever constructed. Its original name was Ipet Isut,
meaning ‘the most select of places’. Over the course of two millennia, it
was enlarged by consecutive Pharaohs until it comprised an area of 247
acres. Centered on the Temple of Amun (begun during the 11th Dynasty,
2134-1991 BC), it served as a spiritual center but also as an economic
hub, containing administrative offices, treasuries, palaces, bakeries,
breweries, granaries and schools.
Karnak’s grandest feature is the Great Hypostyle Hall, but its wonders
include the Chapel of Senusert, which dates back to the Middle Kingdom,
the obelisks of Thutmose I and Hatshepsut, and the socalled botanical
garden of Thutmose III, decorated with reliefs of the plants, trees and
animals the Pharaoh brought home from his military expeditions. But
the massive compound contains countless treasures beyond these. Take
a walk around Karnak’s perimeter, where fewer travelers tend to venture.
The ground is strewn with inscribed blocks and fragments of statues,
where pieces of an age-old puzzle still await reassembly, and treasures
await discovery.
Al-Nasseriyya St.
095/238 0270
6am-5.30pm Oct-Apr, to 6am May-Sep
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LUXOR MUSEUM
Why visit a museum in Luxor, you may ask, when the entire town can
be thought of as an open-air museum with antiquities and treasures
lying almost everywhere you look? The answer is that every item in this
small, permanent exhibit is a priceless masterpiece, lit and displayed to
perfection. Here you’ll find key discoveries from decades of excavations,
the space and quiet to enjoy them, and the descriptions to understand
them. Located on the corniche about half way between the Karnak and
Luxor Temples, the museum can be an ideal break on a journey between
the two.
One of the recurrent themes in temple art is the Pharaoh in his chariot,
with arms extended, his bow and arrow drawn. In the Luxor Museum
you’ll see the bows and arrows and a perfectly intact chariot, its leatherbound wheels and wooden yoke looking as ready as ever for a pair of
feisty steeds. On a softly illuminated platform in a darkened room lies
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the mummy of an unknown Pharaoh, whose strange fate was to travel to
Canada in the luggage of a 19th century tourist as a souvenir, and is now
reunited with his ancestral home.
Al-Nasseriyya St.
095/238 0269
Oct.-Apr.,9am-1pm/4pm-9pm, MaySept. 9am-1pm/5.00pm-10pm.
MUMMIFICATION
MUSEUM
Across from the Luxor Museum,
take the stairs from the corniche
down towards the Nile, and spend
a lively half-hour contemplating
the immortal dead. Aside from
humans, some animals sacred
to the gods enjoyed the status
of mummification, including
crocodiles, fully-grown and infant,
rams and baboons. The art and
science of mummification was
an Egyptian specialty, and this
tastefully organized little museum
shows how, and with what
ingredients, it was done.
.
Al-Nasseriyya St.
095/237 0062
except Fridays, 9am2pm and 5pm-10pm.
Mummification Museum
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WEST BANK
MONUMENTS
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THE COLOSSI OF MEMNON
This pair of time-worn monoliths on the main road
from the river, standing guard over the threshold
of the Theban Necropolis, are all that remains of a
temple built by Amenophis III around 2400 years
ago. At 18m high and weighing 1000 tons, they
have remained strong and steady despite years of a
change in their surrounding landscape. Surrounded
by fields, the Nile waters rose each year, until upriver
dams ended the annual floods in 1964 to reach the
Colossi’s feet.
Legend has it that they could once sing; a whistling
sound documented by the ancient Greeks was
probably produced as the statues’ stones, warmed by
the sun’s early morning rays, gradually expanded and
rubbed against one another along an existing crack.
Outraged that they wouldn’t sing for him, Roman
Emperor Septimus Severus (193-211 AD) repaired
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the crack and left them silent. A stele at the Egyptian
Museum in Cairo poetically describes the temple
as being built from ‘white sandstone, with gold
throughout, a floor covered with silver, and doors
covered with electrum’. It takes a visit to the Colossi
to truly understand the experience of this description.
.
Tip
To locate the Colossi, ask for the antiquities inspectorate
ticket office. They are only a few feet behind it.
The Colossi of Memnon
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THE THEBAN NECROPOLIS
The Theban Necropolis is the sprawling, secluded cemetery located in
the hills and wadis (valleys) of the Nile’s West Bank. The ancients called
it ‘the place of truth’ and the ‘Western Lands’, where life’s journey ended
and another, everlasting one, began. When French author André Malraux
remarked that ‘Egypt invented eternity’, he spoke a poetic truth, since
Egyptian civilization was based on a compelling belief in the afterlife.
For the Ancient Egyptians, the sun’s daily transit from east to west, its
night-time disappearance and its return at dawn, was a symbol of both
inevitable death and eternal renewal.
At first, eternity was reserved for pharaohs; only those who could
afford proper mummification and well-equipped tombs could achieve
immortality. Over the course of several dynasties, however, funerary rites
became available to a wider public, starting with high-ranking officials,
but also eventually extending to funerary workers.
The royals are buried in a rocky labyrinth, whose inaccessibility helped
protect their remains. The vivid drawings and inscriptions of tomb
interiors were not mere decorations, but prayers and incantations
addressed to the gods, along with celebrations of the deceased’s familylife and achievements. Against the odds, and benefited by Luxor’s
warm, dry climate, many are still intact. But the imprint of millions of
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annual visitors has taken its toll. Some tombs are
under restoration, others allow only limited access.
Check with your guide or ticket vendors for the latest
information about which are open for viewing.
The Valley of the Kings, offering a plethora of splendid
tombs, warrants return visits. Nearby lies the Valley
of the Queens, once known as Ta- Set-Neferu, ‘the
place of the beautiful ones’. The tombs of the royal
ladies and their children are less in grandeur than the
kings’, but equal in the artistry and mastery of their
inscriptions. While the burial grounds of highranking
officials, the Valley of the Nobles, was more
accessible, and therefore more subject to raiding a
few important examples remain.
This astounding necropolis suffered from tragic
devastation as a fashion for everything Egyptian
swept Europe in the early 19th century, and the
resulting craze for artifacts was fed by unscrupulous
tomb raiders long before the principles of modernday archaeology were developed. Visitors through
the ages have left disfiguring graffiti scratched into
walls and statues, destroying artwork that thousands
of years had spared. The phenomenon is not new;
people have always left their mark, and Luxor’s tombs
and temples bear examples of ancient Greek, Coptic
and Latin graffiti, as well as the flowery script of 19th
century travelers. Today’s visitors, however, are able
to enjoy these priceless treasures in the atmosphere of
respect and reverence that the monuments deserve.
bs in
the tom
One of
gs
in
K
e
th
of
Valley
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MOR TUARY TEMPLE OF
HATSHEPSUT (DEIR EL-baha ri)
Hatshepsut Tapınağı
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Set in a curving bank of steep
cliffs with a commanding view
of the river valley, the Temple of
Hatshepsut was built in perfect
harmony with its majestic
surroundings. Seen from a
distance, its three-level façade
looks almost futuristic testimony
to the timelessness of great
art. Designed by Hatshepsut’s
steward and architect Senenmut,
it took eight years and
tremendous manpower to build
a fitting tribute to the woman
who ruled Egypt as pharaoh
for nearly half a century (15031452BC). Hatshepsut called it
‘the splendor of splendors’, and
some still consider it one of the
most striking architectural works
on earth.
6 am-4.30 pm Oct-Apr, to
5 pm May-Sep
The faces of the statues decorating
the colonnades show traces of
ochre, a reminder that these
monuments were once vividly
colored and must have presented
an even more dazzling spectacle
than they do today.
Hatshepsut Temple
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Deir el-Medina
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town of the unnamed
worke rs (dei r el -Medina)
While the tombs of the Theban
Necropolis seem almost
miraculous in their construction,
they were created by human
hands, sweat and blood. Deir
el-Medina is the town and burial
place of the mostly unnamed
workers whose craftsmanship
ensured the lasting glory of their
pharaohs. Recent excavations
show the footprints of their
humble dwellings, and while
their tombs are small, they were
decorated with the same artistry
and skill as the burial chambers
of their employers. The site
includes a small temple built
by Amenophis III, rebuilt 1100
years later by Ptolemy IV..
6am-4.30 pm Oct-Apr, to
5pm May-Sep
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The rameseum ,
mortua ry temple of
ramses ii
For the pharaohs, temple building
was a way of thanking the gods for
military triumphs, demonstrating
their greatness to their people, and
ensuring their memory would be
honored in posterity. Ramses II
(19th Dynasty, 1304-1237BC) was
a prolific builder, and the great
temple at Abu Simbel was amongst
his most exceptional works. While
the Ramesseum lies half in ruins, it
is nevertheless one of the loveliest
sites in Egypt. The temple precinct
is scattered with shards of ancient
pottery and fallen blocks, the most
sensational of which is a large
sculpture of Ramses II’s muscular
torso. His monolith, carved into
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a single piece of Aswan granite,
once stood almost 17 meters high,
dominating the local countryside.
Even now the Ramesseum, with its
wind-gnarled trees full of chirping
birds, has an ambiance full of the
romance of a great, but fallen,
power.
6am-4.30pm Oct-Apr, to
5pm May-Sep
Temple of Ramses II
medinat habu, the
mortua ry temple of
ramses ii
Grandiose
and
gracefully
proportioned, set apart from
the majority of the other West
Bank buildings, Medinat Habu is
second in size only to the Great
Temple at Karnak. Ramses III
admired and imitated his ancestor
Ramses II’s style of building, and
like him was an aggressively
successful military leader. Statues
of the lionheaded Sekhmet, fierce
goddess of revenge. The first
pylon and inner court graphically
depict the pharaoh’s victories
over the Libyans and Phoenicians.
The complex was added by later
rulers, and the decoration of
the second court - dedicated to
religious matters and later made
into a church - creates a very
different mood. Remnants of its
original mud-brick enclosure wall
are interspersed with the ruins of
Jeme, the Coptic town inhabited
for centuries and abandoned
around 800AD.
Medinat Habu Mortuary Temple
of Ramses III, hieroglyphics
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Thin gs to do in lu xor
Shoping
Luxor’s souks (markets) offer all sorts of souvenirs, clothing and
jewelry, some of it kitsch, some fine and uniquely crafted. As you visit
the necropolis, now as in centuries past, souvenir sellers will display
statuettes of the animal-headed gods made of alabaster and stone. The
Valleys of the Kings and Queens are dotted with alabaster workshops,
where this translucent local stone is handcrafted into vases, bowls and
statues. The mud-brick buildings are covered with brightly colored
paintings showing scenes of ancient and modern Egyptian life.
The main souk, with its recently widened central artery (entrance near
the east side of the Luxor Temple) is fragrant with spices, perfumes and
incense, and open from around 10am until midnight. Near its northern
end, on the way to the Luxor Museum, the local market begins. Especially
on Tuesday mornings, townspeople flock there to buy groceries and fresh
produce.
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The Nile corniche also offers colorful shops and mini-bazaars. Be sure
and take the stairs located at various intervals along the Corniche to the
lower, river-side level, near where Luxor’s cruise ships dock. There you’ll
find more shops, restaurants and cafés in a pleasant pedestrian-only
environment
Tea Time
For a taste of Victorian luxury, visit the Sofitel Winter Palace for high tea
(4-6pm daily), served in a grand salon overlooking one of Luxor’s oldest
and loveliest gardens. Built in 1886, the Winter Palace helped establish
Luxor as a glamorous winter spot for Europe’s well-to-do and formed the
back-drop for many a diamond-drenched party. A variety of cafés with
lovely river side ambience are located along the lower river walkway
along the East Bank corniche.
Bookstores
Gaddis Bookstore, located beside the Winter Palace at the southern
end of the Luxor Temple, is a century-old family business that began
as one of the first Egyptian-owned photographic studios. A wonderful
collection of prints from the Gaddis archives are on sale dating from the
1920 -1930s, in addition to an eclectic selection of souvenirs, jewelry
and clothing.
9am-10pm, Closed June and July.
095/238 7042
For a variety of Egypt-related books and daily newspapers, visit the
Abboudi Bookstore, between the southern end of Luxor Temple and
the Winter Palace.
9am-10pm
095/237 2390
Collection of souvenirs
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The Luxor Marathon
In 1977, Egyptologist Ahmed Moussa discovered an ancient
inscription describing a 100km footrace for the pharaoh’s
soldiers. With this historic sporting event in mind, the first annual
Luxor Marathon was first held in 1993 and is now a prominent
international event, attracting some 2000 participants each year.
The Luxor Marathon is held in the cool and dry month of February
on the scenic West Bank.
More info: www.egyptianmarathon.com.
Moulid of Abul Hagag
Islam doesn’t have saints per se, but every village has a holy
person, or wali, in its history whose life is honored with annual
celebrations. The moulids have a carnival-like atmosphere,
and the Moulid of Abul Haggag, centered on the Abul Haggag
mosque in Luxor Temple, is held three weeks prior to the Muslim
month of Ramadan (during the summer months for the next few
years). During the featured procession, local Sufi brotherhoods
display their banners, and in the case of Abul Haggag, a wooden
boat is carried aloft, echoing a pharaonic tradition.
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Tip
Coptic Excursions
St. Mark brought Christianity
to Egypt in the first century AD.
Some of the earliest churches and
monasteries were founded within
the walls of temples. Luxor’s
Coptic community and traditions
remain vibrant. Some masses are
still celebrated in their original
language, which is closely linked
to that of the pharaohs. Historic
texts say that the Holy Family
traveled through Egypt, seeking
refuge from the death-threats of
Jerusalem’s King Herod. The stops
along their way became the sites of
religious communities, including
Deir El Muharraq. Between August
7-21, thousands of pilgrims attend
the Feast of the Consecration of
the Church of the Virgin. On the
11th of November, the Church
of St. George holds its annual
celebration. Egypt’s churches (and
many of its monasteries) welcome
visitors all year-round.
Tip
Up, Up and Away. Have an
experience you’ll never forget riding
a hot air balloon and taking pictures
of your great memories from the
Luxor sky, which is sure to multiply
your awe with the magnificence of
the city’s history from up above.
If you don’t mind waking before
dawn (and don’t suffer from vertigo!),
several local companies provide
45-minute hot-air balloon rides
featuring a privileged, bird’s-eye
view of the West Bank monuments.
Ask your hotel concierge or any
Luxor travel agent for details.
Hot air balloon over Luxor’s West Bank
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Felucca on the Nile
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LUXOR Library
and Cultural Center
Inaugurated in 2007, the library offers a selection
of Egyptology related books, a well-equipped
maproom, and multi-media presentations describing
local history. A children’s play, study area and internet
facilities make the library a welcome addition to the
community and a place for amateur Egyptologists of
every nationality to deepen their knowledge. Karnak
Temple St. (Shara Maa’bad al- Karnak).
10.30am-9pm except Mondays
095/237 3086, 095/237 3142.
a stop for a quick bite, you can visit the Nubian tent.
Get a henna design, or dress up in Nubian attire; the
Nubian village will present you with unforgettable
fun.
095/928 0688
Felucca rides
For a leisurely journey, choose a felucca (Nile sailboat)
available near the ferry landing and at intervals along
the corniche. Book it for an hour or two, take a picnic,
and meander along the Nile’s lush, still untouched
banks powered only by wind and currents. Prices
vary depending on the number of occupants
Nubian vilage
Live the Nubian lifestyle in the Nubian Village. With
their unique customs and lifestyle, a fascinating
experience awaits you 7km south of Luxor city center.
Watch Nubian women making handicrafts, and after
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practical info in lu xor
Geting there and away
EgyptAir has daily flights between Cairo, Luxor and Aswan. Luxor’s
International Airport is located about 20 minutes from city center.
095/237 2306.
Trains leave Luxor to Cairo and Aswan several times daily, some with
overnight compartments offered by Abela Egypt Sleeping Train (www.
sleepingtrains.com).
Luxor Train Station:
095/237 0259.
The bus station is located approximately 1km from the airport. Tickets
for the bus can be purchased at office, near the train station. Buses
heading to Cairo leave early in the morning. Be sure to book ahead of
time. There are six daily buses that go to Hurghada and a daily bus to
Sharm el Sheikh.
Bus Station:
095/232 2218
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Limousine services are available in Luxor. Several companies offer you
to rent a car, with a driver, for one or more days, if you have your own
tailor-made plans.
Local Transportation
Horse Drawn Carriages
Walking along the Nile corniche, men in horse-drawn carriages call
out, ‘caleche! caleche!’ hoping to offer you a ride. Also known by their
Arabic name, hantour, these old-fashioned carriages provide a romantic
and convenient means of transport. Be sure and agree on a price, and
specify the currency, beforehand with the driver.
River-Going Transport
One of Luxor’s special pleasures is getting out on the wondrous river.
With the local bridge located 12km south of town, most locals opt for
the large and affordable (1LE) public ferry running regularly from the
landing in front of the Luxor Temple, to the West Bank, operating from
6am-11pm. If you’re in a hurry and willing to pay a little more (5-10LE),
you’ll find colorfully decorated motor boats docked adjacent to the ferry
landing that can be hired for the crossing.
Taxis are plentiful in Luxor. It’s always better to settle with your driver on
a price before setting off..
Visa Extensions
Visit the passport office (Saturday-Thursday 9am-1pm) on the south end
of the corniche, across from the Steigenberger Hotel.
Passport Office
095/238 0885
Tip
For the more energetic, the West Bank is perfect for cycling, and bicycles
are available for rental near the ferry landing, from hotels, and other
locations along the main roads.
Horse-drawn carriages are convenient in Luxor
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Comunications
Telephones
Egypt’s three major mobile phone
carriers (Vodaphone, MobiNil,
Etisalat) are represented in Luxor,
selling SIM and charge cards should
you desire local usage. Egypt
Telecom, on the south end of the
Nile Corniche (Khaled Ibn el Walid
St., next to the Steigenberger Hotel)
is one of several places where you
can make an international call, apart
from hotels. International calling
cards are also widely available. Note
that Egypt’s country code is +2, and
Luxor’s area code is 095.
Postal Services
The main Luxor post office is
located across from the entry to the
tourist souk, behind Luxor temple.
It’s closed on Fridays.
095/237 5158
www.egyptpost.org
38
Tip
WI-MAX
Technology-savvy tourists will
be glad to know that the city of
Luxor has now established Wi-Fi
hotspots in key areas around the
city to allow easy access to the
Internet.
The wireless coverage spans a
7km distance along the Nile,
where there’s a high concentration
of hotels, Nile cruise ships and
cafés, in addition to Al-Karnak
temple and the Luxor Museum.
To take advantage of the wireless
Internet service, you can buy
scratch cards that are sold to
tourists in places close to Wi-Fi
covered areas, starting from 5
euros ($7.2) for a one-hour card,
to 15 euros ($21.7) for the whole
day.
Luxor temple and the Nile
39
Banks and atm services
Many Luxor Banks host ATM machines (including several on the corniche)
and offer foreign currency exchange services, in addition to Thomas Cook
(beside the Winter Palace), and the adjacent American Express.
American Express
Corniche el Nile
095/237 8333
Banque Misr
Karnak Temple St.,
19888
Useful Numbers
Tourist Police 126 or 095 237
6620
Police 122
Fire 180
Ambulance 123
Telephone directory 140
HSBC Bank
Khaled Ibn El Walid St.,
Corniche El Nile
095/235 7853
CIB Bank
Khaled Ebn El Walid St.,
Plaza Center
19666
40
Old Winter Palace bar
Fod and
Entertainment
Luxor has a wide range of cafés, restaurants, and selfcatering establishments, ranging from top-end dining
to fast-food to small local eateries serving Egyptian
dishes. While most of the restaurants in Luxor serve
local cuisine, there are also a host of international
options available.
After a day spent enjoying the local sights, a wide
range of cultural events awaits you in the evening. Not
to be missed is the distinctive Saidi music, making use
of the mizmar, or twin pipe clarinet. Belly dance and
the famous Egyptian Galabiya shows are some of the
night-life activities available in hotels across Luxor.
Health
There are several well-equipped hospitals in Luxor
ready to help in a medical emergency. Pharmacies,
many of which have English speaking staff, are easy
to find around town. All hotels have a doctor on call,
and all cruise ships include a staff member certified
in First Aid.
Luxor International Hospital
Luxor City Centre, Hospital St.,
095/238 7194/3/2
Tourists who can’t enjoy their travels without their
accompanying pets can enjoy peace of mind while
in Luxor, thanks to animal care centers that have
recently been established.
Brooke Hospital for Animals
El-Khotabaa Village
095/238 1305,095/928 1100,095/236 5051
Egyptian Tourist Authority (ETA)
Tourist Information Offices Visit
Luxor’s ETA offices for event updates
and friendly assistance in several
languages. Head office Le bureau
principale :
Beside Luxor railway station
095/237 3294
Luxor station:
Inside railway station of
Luxor, in tickets hall
095/237 0259
Luxor museum:
In front of Luxor museum
095/928 0004
Luxor International Airport:
Inside the International Luxor
Airport
095/237 2306
www.egypt.travel
41
Nile Cruises
The pharaohs sometimes visited
their Nile-side temples by royal
barge, and boat traffic along the
river remains the most dramatic
way to reach the monuments.
Since 1869, when Thomas Cook
and Son launched their Upper
Egypt excursions, steamships were
popular with those who wished to
travel in style, and see the sites at a
comfortable pace. While some of
today’s cruise ships are nearly as
well-appointed as the royal barge,
there are packages to suit every
budget, offering itineraries of
varying lengths. Several jewellike
monuments are located on the
banks of the river between Luxor
42
and Aswan, including the Temple
of Khnum at Esna, the Temple of
falcon-headed Horus at Edfu, and
the temple of the crocodile god
Sobek at Kom Ombo. All may be
visited by car from Luxor, as well
as by cruise ship to Aswan, south
of Luxor, whose attractions also
merit an extended stay.
Tip
From Aswan you may embark
on a 3-4 night Lake Nasser
cruise to Abu Simbel, visiting
the monuments of Nubia along
the way.
A Cruise on the Nile
43
Luxor is easy to get to from
Alexandria, Aswan, Cairo, Sharm
el-Sheikh and Siwa. To make
a longer, more unforgettable,
journey, why not add two or three
of these fabulous destinations
together?
Your Journey in
Egypt continues
…
DAndAra and Abydos Temples
Aruond
Luxor
Dandara, accessible via a 65km drive north from Luxor, offers a glimpse
of the Egyptian countryside with its palm groves, sugarcane fields and
traditional rural lifestyle. Located on a site settled since the Old Kingdom
(2613-2181BC), this imposing temple complex was dedicated to Hathor,
‘The Great Mother’, goddess of music, beauty and love. Many visitors
continue by road from Dandara to Abydos, 100km north of Luxor, a sacred
ancient pilgrimage site, and center of the cult of Osiris, god of death and
resurrection. The Temple of Seti I (19th dynasty) is built in white limestone
and its seven sanctuaries - dedicated to Horus Isis, Osiris, Amun-Ra,
Ra-Harakhte, Ptah and Seti himself - are decorated with extremely
from
fine bas-reliefs. The daily convoy by road for Dandara and Abydos
iew
he v Luxor’s
T
assembles at 6pm. The temples are also accessible via a cruise ship
of
s
one staurant
from Luxor
re
e
l
i
N
44
THE red sea
In just over four hours by car from
Luxor, you arrive at Safaga on the
coral-studded Red Sea coast. You
may well want to stay longer to enjoy
Egypt’s breathtaking trilogy of desert,
mountains and turquoise sea. In less
than 5 hours of driving, or an hour
by air, on a beautifully paved road
that pierces through valleys and
mountains, you can head from Luxor
to one of the most charming Red Sea
cities, Hurghada.
Intrepid travelers may want to head
40km south of Marsa Alam to Wadi
el Gemal (‘valley of the camels’)
National Park, one of Egypt’s many
protected areas, for untouched and
unforgettable desert landscapes.
Further north, the popular resort and
yearround residential community
of El-Gouna is built on manmade
islands surrounded by crystalline
lagoons. Its lively town center
features hotels, restaurants and
shopping venues, in addition to the
resort’s excellent golf course, private
airstrip and marina.
.
iver at
Corals D Sea
the Red
Aruond
Luxor
Port Gha
lib
marina in
Marsa A
lam
Tip
Located 285km north of Luxor,
Hurghada boasts a scenic coastline
and various watersports. Some
50km south of Safaga is the seaport
of Quseir with its 16th century
Ottoman fortress built to protect
trade links with India.
TIP
Mangrove trees line portions of the
rugged, pristine coast near Marsa
Alam, 200 km south of Safaga. Once
a fishing village, Marsa Alam is a
must-see spot for divers thanks to
its sunken shipwrecks and teeming
aquatic life.
45
ASWAN
Aswan is the gate to Nubia, a realm
of marvelous calm and the favorite
destination of the Aga Khan and
Francois Mitterrand to name
but two famous people
who
succumbed
tine
Elephan
to its wonderfully
Island
relaxing charms.
There are ancient
temples, the incredible
high dam, Elephantine
island and ancient monasteries
all there to help you create the
holiday story of lifetime.
You can get to Aswan by boat
from Luxor, flying direct from
Alexandria, or by vehicle from
Luxor or Cairo.
46
Philae
Island
24 hours in
Alexandria
Start with breakfast outside the Hotel
Cecil, overlooking the magnificent
double harbour of Alexandria. Ride
a double decker bus to the Jewelry
Museum and make sure you see the
ex-king’s diamond studded gardening
tools. Keep going to take in the excellent
Mahmoud Said modern art museum
followed by the Library of Alexandria.
Whizz along the Corniche for a top fish
lunch at Abu Qir, and have coffee on the
way back at stunning Salamak Hotel in
Montazeh Bay. You should now squeeze
in a visit to the Catacombs and Pompey’s
Pillar, before doing some shopping at the
antique buying area of Attareen. Take in
traditional music at the Opera house,
and dinner at a great Greek restaurant
downtown.
IN
Egypt
tazah
Mon k
Par
47
ess
y Fortr
Old Cit aly
of ‘Sh
SHARM el-Sheikh
Sharm el-Sheikh is the latest addition to the journey destinations of
Egypt. Known originally as one of the world’s number one diving
spots, it has great wreck and coral diving and is situated on the tip
of the Sinai Peninsula. Nearby lies the immense charm of desert
and mountain scenery and the ancient attraction of St. Catherine’s
monastery and Mt. Sinai.
To get to Sharm el-Sheikh from Alexandria is easy either by a short
flight or by bus or long distance taxi via Cairo.
48
SIWA
If you have time, Siwa makes for a great journey into the heart
of the Western Desert. Only three or four hours along a good
road from Marsa Matrouh, Siwa is an oasis town surrounded by
large saline lakes of majestic beauty. Siwa is home to the ancient
Oracle temple where Alexander the Great went after conquering
Egypt. Other attractions of Siwa include hot springs, Roman ruins,
the mud walled town of Shali and a magnificent eco-lodge where
Prince Charles and many other luminaries have stayed.
Bay
Sharks
s of
Pyramid
Giza
see pag
e
42
y Night
Cairo b
CAIRO
Cairo usually features in any Egyptian experience. It is has, after all, the only remaining wonder of
the ancient world the Pyramids, as well as the great Egyptian museum, the marvels of Islamic Cairo
and the Citadel, the Nile, as well as numerous restaurants and nightspots. Cairo can be reached from
Alexandria by the Alex desert road or by train. There is a rapid first class service that arrives in under
three hours and provides for a meal along the route if required
49
Practical Info
Location :
31 05 to 22 N 25 02 to 34 56 E
Population:
More than 83 million
Large cities:
Cairo (18 million), Alexandria (4 million), Aswan and Suez
Egypt Toda y
Since the end of the nineteenth century, Egypt has been evolving at a
very high speed. Its political, economic and cultural life has undergone
striking changes. From the inscription of the first hieroglyph to the
construction of the new hi-tech Smart Village, Egypt has always been
a pioneer on the frontier for emerging information technologies in the
Arab world.
Egypt is one of the oldest countries in the world, its people are
conscious of their ancient origin and proud of their heritage. This
50
makes the Egyptian provider of services for the tourist both experienced
and able to anticipate what any tourist is likely to want to see. The
Egyptian people have suffered under several waves of invasion, but
have never been broken. Their talent is in flexibility and thinking up
novel solutions to problems. With this is mind and a flexible approach
of your own, you will have a marvelous time on holiday.
Entry and Depart ure
Visitors will need a single-visit visa to enter Egypt. The visa is valid for
90 days. If the planned trip involves travel in and out of Egypt over the
same period, then the best option is a multiple-visit visa. Obtaining
a visa is straightforward. It can be arranged in advance through one
of the Egyptian consulates dotted around the world, or purchased on
entry at airports. All visitors will need to have a passport which must
have at least six months remaining of its validity from the date of entry.
Egypt applies strict customs rules about bringing items such as alcohol
and cigarettes into the country, so to avoid any misunderstandings it is
probably advisable to buy at an airport shop. Under no circumstances
should you attempt to leave the country with antiquities
Health
Electricity
There are no vaccinations needed to visit Egypt. Sunburn and
dehydration can be avoided by using plenty of sun cream, wearing
light cotton clothing and a hat, and drinking lots of water. The health
care facilities in Egypt are generally good and it is advisable to have
health insurance.
Egypt’s electricity works on 220v with sockets being of the two-pin
European mainland variety. It’s a good idea to pack an adaptor if
planning to use personal items like mobile phone chargers.
Comunications
Egypt has embraced internet services and now it is easy to go online
at hotels, offices and internet cafes. Egypt has widespread wi fi service
available. The telephone system is efficient and visitors should have
no problem in finding public phones that take cards. You can buy
visitor mobile cards that enable you to use your mobile. You can buy
stamps and post your letters at post offices or from your hotel. Post
offices are closed on Fridays
Information and Booking
Flying to Egypt, is relatively straightforward. The main airline, EgyptAir
(www.egyptair.com), runs regular and efficient service to Cairo,
Alexandria, Luxor and Aswan from airports around the world. It also
provides inexpensive domestic flights. Some visitors choose to arrive
by road or by sea. Cruise ships often make Egypt a key stop on their
itineraries. Booking holidays or short trips to Egypt is easily done via links
from the Egyptian Tourist Authority’s website (www.egypt.travel), online
direct with local agents, or by visiting your nearest travel agent. Also
check (www.eha.com) to choose your hotel.
51
Language
The official language of Egypt is Arabic and other languages are widely spoken
too, especially in tourist areas..
Talk like an Egyptian
A little bit of Egyptian Arabic will go
a long way as you meet locals during
your trip. Here are some Arabic
words to help you get started.
Aywa ..................... yes
La .......................... no
shukran ................. thank you
Min fadlak ............. please
afwan ............................. you’re
welcome
salaam aleikum ..... hello
ahlan wasahlan ..... welcome
maalesh ................. no problem
52
Every area of Egypt is different but
there are similarities. For example, it
is customary to pay after receiving
a service not before- be it a drink,
a meal or a taxi ride. Also you will
find a level of trust absent in more
‘developed’ countries. If you go into
a shop and buy a paper and find
you haven’t enough money the shop
keeper will trust you to return with
the right amount later- and let you
take the paper with you!.
Money, ATMs
and Credit
Cards
The currency of Egypt is the Egyptian
pound, which is divided into 100
piasters. Cash is generally easily
obtained from ATMs, which can be
found in larger towns and cities.
Most of the major hotels and stores
accept credit cards, such as Visa and
Mastercard, along with travellers’
cheques
and
certain
foreign
currencies like Euro, Sterling and
Dollars. If venturing off the beaten
track you will find that generally only
the Egyptian pound in cash will be
accepted.
Public
Holidays
Holidays
include
the
Coptic
Christmas on January 7, Labour Day
on May 1, Revolution Day on July
23, Armed Forces Day on October
6. The Islamic New Year, the Birth
of the Prophet and Ramadan, the
major religious period of fasting that
precedes the Bairam Feast, change
every year.
Busines Hours
Government,
and banks
from 9am to
for Fridays,
holidays.
administrative offices
are generally open
2pm each day, except
Saturdays and public
Most shops are open from 10am
to 10pm every day except Sunday.
Please note that all these times may
vary in shopping centres and during
Ramadan. Most historic sites and
museums are open from 9am to 5pm
daily, and often until 6pm in the
summer.
Time
Egypt is two hours ahead of GMT,
except at the start of May and the
end of September when it is three
hours ahead.
may have a limited amount of time
to explore is to travel from one city
to another by air. There are also long
distance buses and trains available.
Travel within cities is probably best
done by taxi or a minibus, although
car hire is an option. Hiring a car with
a guide by the day is a good idea if
you have a tight schedule and want to
see all the sights. If planning to go into
the desert it is a must to take a guide
to avoid becoming disorientated.
Cairo also has an underground metro
system, which is a good way to travel
around the city.
in most of the country. December
to February can be quite cold in the
north. The sky is usually blue and
cloudless. The temperature varies
considerably in Egypt. It rains more
often in Alexandria than in Aswan
and Cairo.
POPULATION
With more than 83 million
inhabitants, Egypt represents one
quarter of the population of the Arab
world.
criminal intent. Mugging is unheard
of, burglary rare.
Clothing
Women need to be somewhat more
careful when walking alone at night,
as in any country, and wearing
modest clothing makes obvious
sense when away from the more
developed resort areas.
Safety
Transport
CLIMATE
As Egypt is such a vast country, the
best way for holidaying visitors who
During the summer, from March to
November, the climate is hot and dry
Compared to New York and London,
walking the streets of even the poorest
neighborhoods of Alexandria, Luxor
or Cairo you will not encounter
any threat of physical violence or
53
Important numbers
Emergency Numbers in Egypt are very handy and can be contacted anytime.
Country code +2
Egypt State Info. Service
22617345/22617344
www.sis.gov.eg
Ambulance
123
Flying hospital service
02/377 66393
Fire Brigade
180
Railway Information:
Cairo 02/257 53555,
Alex 03/392 0010
Police
122
www.moiegypt.gov.eg
Tourist Police
126
Traffic Police
128
Cairo Airport Shuttle Bus
service 19970
54
Cairo Old Airport Information
02/265 5000
Cairo New Airport
02/265 2029
www.cairo-airport.com
Luxor Airport
095/237 4655
Galantry of the Egyptian
Egyptian people are by nature very friendly and helpful. If you stop with a
map on a street corner expect to gather a few helpers. If you need to ask
directions people will be very happy to give you them. Here people are
generous with time, and are not bothered if you interrupt them with some
requests.
EgyptAir
1717
www.egyptair.com
Telephone Directory
140/141
www.telecomegypt.com.eg
Trunk Calls
10
Speaking Clock
150
www.luxorcity.net
55
Temperatures (°F)
City
Luxor
Jan
Feb
May
June
August
Sept
Oct
Mini
50
52
March
54
April
59
68
70
July
72
77
68
64
54
50
Max
73
81
84
91
93
99
100
104
95
86
77
75
Nov
Dec
Distances (Miles)
Abu Simbel Alexandria
Alexandria
911
Aswan
Aswan
Bahariyya
Oasis
Cairo
Dahab
El Gouna
El Quseir
Fayoum
Oasis
Giza
Hurghada
Luxor
Marsa
Alam
Nuweiba
Sharm
Siwa Oasis
el-Sheikh
162
749
Bahariyya Oasis 793
364
712
Kahire
772
139
610
226
Dahab
959
500
752
586
379
El Gouna
478
677
317
507
281
272
El Quseir
449
421
285
604
316
529
92
Fayoum Oasis
827
199
513
281
64
380
285
376
Giza
767
134
610
221
5
324
256
419
60
Hurghada
473
425
312
512
313
442
587
294
291
Luxor
275
636
113
599
448
638
204
149
404
497
203
Marsa Alam
349
595
188
798
391
612
174
82
603
460
169
199
Nuweiba
1089
456
749
537
416
43
434
526
380
322
439
635
609
Sharm El-Sheikh 864
408
702
490
480
53
384
477
329
275
390
588
559
112
Siwa Oasis
971
367
949
240
466
826
748
988
521
461
752
839
1038
778
735
Süveyş
677
222
515
309
83
211
198
290
143
88
203
402
373
237
186
549
Taba
867
412
706
499
273
87
388
480
311
278
393
592
563
43
140
739
Please note that this chart displays rough distances
56
Suez
190