THE IDITAROD TRAIL r~lice J. Lynch Anchorage District Off ic the

THE IDITAROD TRAIL
the Iditarod Trail between
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r ~ l i c eJ. Lynch
L
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7
Anchorage District Off ic
Bureau of Land Management
4700 E. 72nd Avenue
Anchorage, Alaska
ABSTRACT
The Bureau of Land Management conducted a cultural resource inventory
along the segment of the Iditarod Trail from Rainy Pass to Unalakleet.
helter cabins built by the
This included historic
Alaska Road Commission,
built along the trail.
after discovery of gold
number of shelter cabins were
G
in the early 1920ts,an
along the route at variou
condition of sites and st
marizes the known historical backgrodf3 i#fo
d Commission
uilt cabins
.
dividual roadhouses and cabins on the Iditarod Trail were obtained from
long t$ne Alaska residents familiar with the trail.
The information
volvnteered by these persons has provided valuable historical data on
the cultural resources along the trail.
u
In addition to those people quoted directly in the text, a number of
people were interviewed who supplied valuable background information on
tho local communities and/or guided the writer to other informants. Irv
Holrnes of McGrath was of great assistance in locating these people who
were knowledgeable about the area. Pete and Ann Egres, Rose Winkleman
and Mrs. Vanderpool, Alice Harris and Dora Stone, Amos and Kathryn
Turner, Fritz and Einar Larson all contributed information on the area
around McGrath.
Bob Magnuson of McGrath, who piloted the airplane on
low level aerial reconnaissance flights over the trail from Dalzell
Shelter to Unalakleet, contributed greatly to the project through his
flying skill, his knowledge of the terrain and familiarity with the
local history of the area. Pete Gregori of Nicolai, Ernest Norman and
John Miscovitch of Flat, Stan Frost of Farewell Lake Lodge, Ed Gurtler
of Cripple Landing all contributed information on these vicinities.
cooperation of all these people is deeply appreciated.
The
CONTENTS
Page
..........................
Acknowledgements . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Contents. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
.
Preface* . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Illustrations. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
INTRODUCTION. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Purpose. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Abstract.
C *
........................
Overview. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Scope of Work.
Historical
....................
Pass CreekRoadhouse. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Dalzell Cabin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Rohn River Roadhouse. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Pioneer Roadhouse . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Peluk Roadhouse . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Sullivan Roadhouse . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
.................
Bear Creek Roadhouse.
Salmon River Roadhouse . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Big River Roadhouse . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Rainy Pass to Takotna.
..............
P i t k a Fork Cabin. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
SmithlsRoadhouse . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Old McGrath . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
T a k o t n a t o K a l t a g . . .,. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Takotna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Cut-off
from Salmon River t o McGrath
Yankee Creek Roadhouse.
.................
...............
Greenberg Cabins. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Ganes C r e e k . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Ophir . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
McCarthyfs "Roadhouse". . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
De1 Thompson's Beaver Creek Cabin . . . . . . . . . . . .
Boxcar Roadhouse. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Oregon C i t y . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Del Thompson's Mount H u r s t Cabin. . . . . . . . . . . . .
Mount H u r s t Summit Roadhouse. . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Del Thompson's Boob Creek Cabin . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Tolstoi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Yankee Creek S h e l t e r Cabin.
........
Slough Roadhouse. . . . .
I d i t a r o d Loop. . . . . . .
Big Creek Roadhouse . . .
Dishkakat
The
Moore C r e e k .
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Roadhouse . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
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I n d i a n V i l l a g e Site
Lincoln Creek
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Halfway Cabin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Ruby Creek Roadhouse . . . .
Summit Roadhouse.
Frame Cabin on Bonanza Creek.
............
Iditarod. . . . . . . . . . .
Flat.
Shermeier's Halfway Roadhouse
Whitacker Cabin
.......
" F i r s t Chance" S h e l t e r Cabin.
Fritz's Roadhouse
......
.............
on Hunter T r a i l . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
S h e l t e r Cabin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Reindeer Cabin on Hunter T r a i l .
Cabin Ruins
Brown Creek
. . . . . . . . . . . . . .
...............
Takotna t o F l a t Summer Pack T r a i l .
Lincoln Creek S h e l t e r Cabin
...........
Duffy-Riley Cabin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Reindeer Cabin on Willow Creek. . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Brush Creek S h e l t e r Cabin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
McGee S h e l t e r Cabin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Kaltag t o Unalakleet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Twenty-two-mile Cabin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Ten-mile Cabin. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
OldWomanCabin. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Whaleback Cabin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Summary Conclusions and Recommendations. . . . . . . . . . . .
Fourth of J u l y Creek S h e l t e r Cabin.
.......................
A Huffman's Report. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
B Land S t a t u s Report. . . . . . . - . . . . . . . . .
C Forest Service Report. . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
References Cited
Appendix
Appendix
Appendix
Preface
This r e p o r t d e t a i l s s t r u c t u r e s t h a t were i d e n t i f i e d and i n v e n t o r i e d
d u r i n g t h e r e l a t i v e l y s h o r t p e r i o d of t h e f i e l d s e a s o n s of 1977 and
1978.
A t t h a t time, t h e I d i t a r o d T r a i l was being c o n s i d e r e d f o r i n -
c l u s i o n i n t h e N a t i o n a l T r a i l s System.
Basic i n f o r m a t i o n was u r g e n t l y
needed about t h e kind and c o n d i t i o n of sites remaining from t h i s drama-
t i c p e r i o d of Alaskan h i s t o r y .
A primary purpose i n p u b l i s h i n g t h i s r e p o r t is t o i d e n t i f y t h o s e s t r u c -
t u r e s t h a t have now been a n a l y z e d ; we hope i t w i l l s e r v e as a b a s e f o r
more d e t a i l e d f u t u r e i n v e n t o r i e s .
The r e p o r t i s n o t i n t e n d e d t o be a n
e x h a u s t i v e a n a l y s i s of t h o s e s t r u c t u r e s i d e n t i f i e d , n o r i s i t a compreh e n s i v e i n v e n t o r y of a l l o b j e c t s o r s t r u c t u r e s of h i s t o r i c a l s i g n i f i c a n c e between Rainy Pass and U n a l a k l e e t .
Although a n e f f o r t was made t o
i n c l u d e a l l of t h e t r a i l w a y l i k e l y t o remain under F e d e r a l ownership,
work was c o n c e n t r a t e d on t h e s e c t i o n s l i k e l y t o remain under BLM manage-
ment.
W
e have appended a U.S.
Forest Service report discussing sections
of t h e t r a i l on land under t h e i r j u r i s d i c t i o n .
S i n c e t h i s r e c o n n a i s s a n c e was completed, t h e I d i t a r o d T r a i l h a s been
f o r m a l l y added t o t h e N a t i o n a l T r a i l s System i n a new c a t e g o r y :
Historic Trails.
Illustrations
Photo L i s t
Cover Photo
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I d i t a r o d 1911
#l
6
Rohn R i v e r Roadhouse 1978
2
Chopping Block a t Rohn River Roadhouse 1976
#3
P i o n e e r Roadhouse ca. 1919.
French J o e p r o p r i e t o r on r i g h t .
Green, f u r buyer from Bearing Sea e n r o u t e t o S e a t t l e on l e f t .
71' 4
Peluk Roadhouse 1976.
1#5
Peluk Roadhouse.
March 27, 1919.
Frank C r e o l i
proprietor i n front.
6
Salmon R i v e r Roadhouse.
March 24, 1919.
#I7
P i t k a Fork Cabin 1978.
#I8
McGrath. 1918
#9
Takotna c a . 1918
!/I0
Ophir, 1978
1
Ophir, "The T r a p l i n e " on f r o n t s)leet c a . 1918.
.b
#I12 Halfway Cabin 1976
5
1/13 F l a t c a . 191p
1
I d i t a r o d c a . 1911
{/I5
Brown Creek S h e l t e r Cabin, ca. 1920's
#I6
Twenty-two-mile S h e l t e r Cabin, March 1930
{#I7 Ten-mile S h e l t e r Cabin, March 1930
5
1/18 Whaleback S h e l t e r Cabin 197F
1 9 Whaleback S h e l t e r Cabin c a . 1930.
Bert
Figures
/I1
Copy o f Rand McNalley 1922 map.
{82
Copy of Alaska Road Commission 1930 map.
#3
Roha River Roadhouse site sketch.
#4
Pioneer Roadhouse site sketch.
#5
Peluk Roadhouse s i t e sketch.
S u l l i v a n Roadhouse s i t e sketch.
Salmon River Roadhouse s i t e s k e t c h .
Big River Roadhouse s i t e sketch.
Pitka Fork Cabin s i t e sketch.
Smiths Roadhouse s i t e sketch.
Copy of Alaska Roadhouse Commission 1924 map.
Boxcar Roadhouse s i t e sketch.
Ruby Creek Roadhouse site sketch.
Shermiers Halfway Roadhouse s i t e sketch.
INTRODUCTION
The Iditarod Trail extends across Alaska from Seward to Nome. Along with
its historic roadhouses and shelter cabins, it characterizes the imprint
that overland transportation in the gold rush era left upon the Interior
o f Alaska in the early years of this century.
As one
gold f i e l d a f t e r
another was discovered in the Alaskan Interior, people traveled to them
by the best available means.
In summer, ships could reach the Bering
Sea coast of Alaska, bringing supplies and passengers to Alaskan ports.
Riverboats plied the major rivers that extended into the Interior, and
smaller watercraft were lined or poled up headwater drainages.
In
winter these waterways froze over for some seven months of the year, and
overland travel on foot or by dogsled was the only means of getting to
and from these winterbound areas. The Iditarod Trail was developed in
response to this need for overland access to the mining outposts in the
Alaskan Interior.
The roadhouses that sprang up along the trail were usually commercial
establishments run by individuals who provided food and s h e l t e r for
trail travelers and their teams. Shelter cabins were also constructed
along the trail in some places by the Alaska Road Commission (ARC).
Villages, trappers' and reindeer herdsmen's cabins, and other shelters
can also be found along the trail.
The remnants of the trail and the
various associated structures comprise the subject of this report.
Purpose of Study
Subsequent to the National Trails Act of 1968, the former Bureau of
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Outdoor Recreation (BOR) Northwest Regional Office was directed to study
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Alaskan Gold Rush trails and evaluate them for inclusion in the National
Trails System. One of the Alaskan Gold Rush trails studied was the
Iditarod Trail (BOR 1977).
Their findings indicated that while the
trail did not meet the necessary criteria for designation as a National
scenic or recreation trail, the historic role of the Iditarod Trail is
of national significance and merits national recognition. The BOR
proposed a new category of National trails, the National Historic Trail,
so that important historic routes could be included in the National
Trails system.
Even though some of the original features associated with the trail are
gone, many historic sites, buildings, implements, and other remains
.tpJ-
still exist along the Iditarod route. The BOR recommended that steps be
'l'
taken to protect historic resources and stabilize significant historic
buildings along the trail.
It concluded that without proper management,
these historic resources would be degraded, damaged, destroyed, or lost
within a few years.
In 1975 the Bureau of Land Management (BLM) requested funding for sta)
bilization and protection of cultural resources along those segments of
the Iditarod Trail traversing public lands under its management. Because little was known about the condition of historic properties along
the trail, it was necessary to evaluate each known historic location in
the field to determine stabilization/protection needs. This report is
.
the result of field evaluations that took place during the summer field
seasons of 1976, 1977, and 1978.
Scope of Work
The Iditarod Trail is only part of a statewide network of trails used in
the period when overland trails were in general use in Alaska.
Some
segments of the trail were long-established aboriginal trade routes that
were connected and later improved. These trails were surveyed and
cleared at different times as new gold fields were discovered in the
Kuskokwim and Innoko River drainages of the Western Interior. The
portion of the trail examined in this study extends from Rainy Pass to
Unalakleet, and includes the loop extending to the Iditarod-Flat Mining
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Distric . The summer trail from Takotna to Flat was also examined, but
h
time did not allow for examination of the Dikeman cutoff from Shermeier's Halfway Roadhouse to Dishkakat.
During the summer of 1976 John Beck, staff archeologist for the BLM
Anchorage District Office, conducted a rapid reconnaissance over the
Iditarod Trail from Rohn River to Dishkakat and briefly examined several
sites on the ground. At the request of BLM, Lauren Huffman, historical
architect for the National Park Service Pacific Northwest Region, accompanied Beck during two days of the reconnaissance and examined several
of the structures associated with the trail. He recommended further
study and stabilization of certain structures. His report is included
in this study (Appendix A).
Funding was not available to continue the stabilization/protection
evaluation in 1977. However, in August of that year the Bear Creek Fire
burned a 360,000 acre area through which the Iditarod Trail passes and
burned two historic roadhouse ruins, as well as approximately 40 miles
of the trailway itself.
The portion of the trail affected by the fire
was re-examined by Beck as part of a preliminary evaluation of fire
effects on resources in the burn area.
Renewed funding enabled BLM to continue the stabilization/protection
evaluation project in 1978. Detailed examinations were made of roadhouses and other historic features associated with the Iditarod Trail on
portions of the trail under BLM management from the vicinity of Rainy
Pass to Unalakleet (Map 1).
The BLM also made an attempt to refine
information available on the trail and associated features, including
historical background data.
Sites along the trail on land managed by the BLM were examined in detail
on the ground. Each site was mapped and photographed, and plans were
made of the stuctural remains present. The immediate area around each
site was cleared of vegetation where necessary to allow access and in
some cases as a fire protection measure if the site had regrown heavily
with vegetation. Fixed-wing aircraft reconnaissance was employed to
plot and photograph sites on lands owned by or tenatively approved for
transfer to the State, Native Regional Corporations, and village corporations, or those in private ownership.
H i s t o r i c a l Overview
The d i s c o v e r y of gold i n t h e Klondike and S o u t h e a s t e r n Alaska i n t h e
l a t e 1800's focused t h e i n t e r e s t of Americans on Alaska and c r e a t e d a
The U. S. Geological
demand f o r information on t h e Alaskan I n t e r i o r .
Survey (USGS) began a s e r i e s of e x p l o r a t i o n s i n 1898 t o l o c a t e r o u t e s
f o r t r a v e l t o t h e i n t e r i o r and t o r e p o r t on t h e g e o l o g i c a l r e s o u r c e s
present.
That y e a r a party headed by J. E. Spurr t r a v e l e d over Rainy
Pass and down t h e South Fork of t h e Kuskokwim River over much t h e same
r o u t e t h a t t h e I d i t a r o d T r a i l would l a t e r follow (Brooks 1973:282).
S p u r r concluded t h a t t h e g r e a t r i v e r s of Alaska provided the best avenues f o r t r a f f i c i n t o t h e I n t e r i o r .
In 1898-99 t h e War Department a l s o s e n t e x p e d i t i o n s t o look f o r connecti n g l i n k s between t h e c o a s t and t h e I n t e r i o r .
One p a r t y , l e d by Lt. J.
S. Herron, crossed t h e Alaska Range by way o f Simpson Pass, just n o r t h
of Rainy Pass.
When Herron reached t h e Kuskokwim Basin he found w i n t e r
s l e d t r a i l s b l a z e d between t h e watercourses and e v i d e n t l y i n regular use
by the Indians of t h e a r e a (Herron 1901:54).
I n h i s report, Herron
recommended t h a t t h e s e I n d i a n t r a i l s could be economically connected f o r
g e n e r a l use a s p a r t of a w i n t e r r o u t e i n t o t h e I n t e r i o r .
L e g i s l a t i o n e n a c t e d by Congress on January 25, 1905, a l l o c a t e d money f o r
expansion of roads and t r a i l s i n Alaska.
I n a d d i t i o n , it e s t a b l i s h e d
t h e Alaska Road Commission (ARC), under Major W. P. Richardson.
The
Commission was r e s p o n s i b l e f o r l a y i n g o u t and c o n s t r u c t i n g a system of
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News o f gold s t r i k e s i n 1906 on Ganes Creek, i n 1908 on Ophir Creek o f f
t h e upper Innoko River, and a t O t t e r Creek i n 1909 a t t h e headwaters of
t h e I d i t a r o d River, g r e a t l y increased i n t e r e s t i n t h e western I n t e r i o r .
People and f r e i g h t could e n t e r and l e a v e t h i s a r e a by r i v e r d u r i n g t h e
summer, b u t t h e need r a p i d l y i n c r e a s e d f o r a d i r e c t overland r o u t e t o
p r o v i d e f o r cheap and r a p i d w i n t e r t r a n s p o r t a t i o n of men and m a i l s .
During t h e w i n t e r of 1907-08, t h e Alaska Road Commission s e a t a p a r t y
headed by George E . Pulham and W. L. Goodwin t o l o c a t e a w i n t e r t r a i l
r o u t e from Seward t o Nome.
Seward was a n i c e - f r e e p o r t open t o y e a r
-around n a v i g a t i o n , while Nome was c l o s e d t o s h i p p i n g f o r seven months
each year.
S t a r t i n g a t what was t h e n t h e n o r t h e r n r a i l h e a d of t h e
Alaska C e n t r a l Railway a t Mile 54, Goodwin u t i l i z e d e x i s t i n g t r a i l s
a l o n g t h e way.
Crossing t h e Alaska Range a t Rainy P a s s , he made h i s way
a l o n g t h e Kuskokwim and Innoko d r a i n a g e s t o K a l t a g on t h e Yukon.
Here
he followed t h e Kaltag P o r t a g e , a h i s t o r i c Native t r a d e r o u t e t o Unalakl e e t and t h e n t r a v e l e d o v e r snow and i c e around Norton Bay t o Nome.
Even b e f o r e Goodwin's s u r v e y , a few people made t h e i r way overland t o
t h e Innoko g o l d f i e l d s on t h e r i v e r i c e a d j a c e n t t o Goodwin's survey
r o u t e (Alaska Yukon Magazine V I I I , October 1908).
A f t e r gold was found i n t h e I d i t a r o d D i s t r i c t i n December 1908, t h e
Alaska Road Commission a g a i n s e n t a p a r t y w i t h Goodwin i n charge t o upgrade t h e main t r a i l from Nome t o Seward and t o extend t h e t r a i l t o
Iditarod.
Because of t h i s e x t e n s i o n t o t h e I d i t a r o d D i s t r i c t gold
f i e l d s t h e r o u t e became commonly known a s t h e I d i t a r o d T r a i l .
Leaving Nome i n November 1910, Goodwin s e t t r i p o d s wherever n e c e s s a r y t o
indicate the t r a i l direction.
A new and s h o r t e r overland r o u t e from
Dishkakat t o Dikeman was marked.
The t r a i l from Dikeman, t h e l i m i t of
n a v i g a t i o n f o r l a r g e r i v e r b o a t s on t h e I d i t a r o d R i v e r , t o I d i t a r o d , t h e
extreme n a v i g a t i o n l i m i t even f o r s m a l l b o a t s , was well broken by p e o p l e
who had come t o mine t h e gold p l a c e r d e p o s i t s t h e p r e c e d i n g s e a s o n s .
Goodwin t h e n marked t h e w i n t e r t r a i l from I d i t a r o d t o Takotna, f o l l o w i n g
t h e c o u r s e s of Bonanza and F o u r t h of J u l y c r e e k s (Alaska Yukon Magazine,
I
J u l y 1911:55).
During t h e 1910-11 survey, Goodwin's p a r t y marked t h e c u t o f f from B e r r y ' s
Big R i v e r Roadhouse t o F a r e w e l l Mountain on t h e South Fork of t h e Kusko-
kwim R i v e r .
This r o u t e was some 5 2 m i l e s s h o r t e r t h a n t h e earlier t r a i l
t h a t t r a v e r s e d t h e South Fork of t h e Kuskokwim River n o r t h of Rainy P a s s
(Alaska Yukon Magazine J u l y 1911:53).
Less t h a n f i v e miles of t h i s new
r o u t e had been l o c a t e d on any p r e - e x i s t i n g t r a i l , and a s of t h e w i n t e r
o f 1910-11 t h e r e were no roadhouses on t h e new t r a i l from Big R i v e r t o
t h e Rohn River Roadhouse (Alaska Yukon Magazine, J u l y 1911;55).
Large q u a n t i t i e s of gold were hauled o u t o v e r t h e I d i t a r o d T r a i l on
numerous o c c a s i o n s .
I n h i s d i a r i e s 0. G. Herning (December 31, 1916)
n o t e s t h a t 3,400 pounds of gold was f r e i g h t e d over t h e I d i t a r o d i n one
shipment by 46 dogs.
He a l s o mentions a dog team a r r i v i n g a t Knik from
I d i t a r o d a s l a t e a s *November 25, 1921 w i t h 1,500 pounds of b u l l i o n .
I n d i v i d u a l mushers o f t e n b r o u g h t o u t t h e g l e a n i n g s of t h e i r p l a c e r
a c t i v i t i e s over t h e t r a i l s .
Herning mentions one musher who b r o u g h t 100
pounds of gold d u s t from "Discovery" i n t h e I d i t a r o d D i s t r i c t on November 30, 1919.
Even a t t h e going r a t e f o r gold, t h e n $20.67 p e r ounce,
t h i s amounted t o $33,072.00.
When Archdeacon Hudson Stuck (1914:313) journeyed o v e r l a n d t o I d i t a r o d
d u r i n g t h e w i n t e r of 1910-11 roadhouses had sprung up along t h e p o r t i o n
of t h e t r a i l west of Big R i v e r a l l t h e way t o I d i t a r o d .
Goodwin's
account (Alaska Yukon Magazine, J u l y 1911:55) c o r r o b o r a t e s t h i s , l i s t i n g
11 roadhouses between Big R i v e r and t h e I d i t a r o d D i s t r i c t .
Other road-
houses were b u i l t on Goodwin's c u t o f f w i t h i n t h e f o l l o w i n g t h r e e y e a r s .
According t o Miska Diaphon, a l i f e - l o n g r e s i d e n t of t h e a r e a , S m i t h ' s
Roadhouse on Blackwater Creek was e r e c t e d i n 1914, on a l a t e r c u t o f f
t h a t r a n i n a d i r e c t l i n e from Goodwin's t r a i l n e a r t h e Salmon R i v e r t o
McGrath (Map 2 ) .
Although t h e r e i s a p a u c i t y of i n f o r m a t i o n on t h e
development of t h i s c u t o f f from Goodwin's t r a i l , t h e 1922 Rand-McNally
Guide t o Alaska and Yukon shows t h e r o u t e with S m i t h ' s and a n o t h e r unnamed roadhouse (Figure I ) , (RandMcNally 1922:40,41).
I n 1914 a c o n t r a c t was l e t t o H. E. R e v e l l e t o c a r r y t h e w i n t e r m a i l between Seward and I d i t a r o d (Alaska Sportsman, January 1966:28).
The mail
run from Seward t o I d i t a r o d c o n t i n u e d through t h e w i n t e r of 1918-19.
By
t h e n t h e Alaska R a i l r o a d had been completed a s f a r a s Kobe on t h e n o r t h -
ern s i d e o f t h e Alaska Range, and t h e m a i l t o t h e I d i t a r o d and I m o k o
Mining D i s t r i c t s was r o u t e d on an overland t r a i l from t h e r e .
Winter
m a i l s e r v i c e was r e i n s t i t u t e d o v e r t h e Rainy Pass s e c t i o n of t h e t r a i l
f o r one season only, during t h e w i n t e r of 1920-21 (BOR, 1976:39).
After
t h a t t h e segment from Rainy Pass t o McGrath lapsed i n t o d i s u s e f o r many
y e a r s , except f o r t h e i n f r e q u e n t passage of t r a p p e r s .
The w i n t e r mail r o u t e from Takotna t o F l a t was a l s o d i v e r t e d i n 1918 by
way of Ophir.
There it passed over t h e Hunter T r a i l of t h e I d i t a r o d
Loop and i n t e r s e c t e d t h e Dikeman-Iditarod segment n e a r Moose Creek i n
t h e v i c i n i t y of Shermeier's Halfway Roadhouse.
A f t e r 1918 t h e Takotna-
F l a t w i n t e r t r a i l was l i t t l e used, and t h e roadhouses a l o n g t h i s r o u t e
were g r a d u a l l y abandoned, although t h e y s t i l l were used f o r s h e l t e r by a
few p r o s p e c t o r s and t r a p p e r s .
A summer pack t r a i l roughly p a r a l l e l i n g t h e o l d Takotna-Flat w i n t e r
t r a i l t r a v e r s e d t h e higher and d r i e r country j u s t t o t h e n o r t h .
from F l a t t o t h e mines on Ganes Creek between Ophir and Takotna.
It led
In
1921-22 t h e Alaska Road Commission b u i l t t h r e e cabins a l o n g t h e summer
pack t r a i l f o r s h e l t e r (ARC Annual Report, 1922:68).
T r a v e l e r s provided
t h e i r own food and p a i d no f e e t o use t h e s e c a b i n s , b u t were expected t o
leave them c l e a n and with a supply of firewood c u t and s t a c k e d for t h e
next t r a v e l e r .
A f t e r 1920 when t h e a c t i v i t y i n t h e western I n t e r i o r gold f i e l d s had dec l i n e d , t h e s e simple one-room l o g s h e l t e r cabins t h a t were n o t operated
commercially were i n c r e a s i n g l y used f o r accommodations along t h e I d i t a rod T r a i l and o t h e r t r a i l s maintained by t h e ARC.
Roadhouses were no
longer p r o f i t a b l e t o run i n i s o l a t e d a r e a s along t h e t r a i l s , but s h e l t e r
cabins were still needed by occasional travelers. The 1930 ARC Annual
Report shows all of the ARC shelter cabins existing at that time in the
Kuskokwim District (Figure 2).
Reindeer herding was introduced into the uplands northeast of Iditarod
in the 1920's. The Iditarod trail was sometimes used by herders trailing reindeer to local butchers. Reindeer herders also built cabins for
shelter in remote areas of their range. Two of these reindeer herders'
cabins were identified in the aerial survey along the trail.
During World War 11, the Civil Aeronautics Administration (CAA),
later
called the Federal Aviation Administration (FAA), was involved in the
transportation of fuel over the trail to the navigational aid station at
Farewell Lake near Pioneer Roadhouse.
According to Virgil Knight,
retired FAA official, when the station was established in the early
1 9 4 0 f s , fuel from San Francisco was shipped up the Kuskokwim River by
paddlewheel steamer as far as Farewell Landing near the mouth of Big
River, and stored in 20,000-gallon holding tanks. It was then transferred to 55-gallon drums which were loaded on barges and towed by
tugboat up Big River and the Pitka Fork to the mouth of Salmon River
opposite Salmon River Roadhouse.
In February, when the streams and
marshes were thoroughly frozen, the drums were hauled overland by trac_--'
L
tor train along the Iditarod Trail to
Farewell Station. Diverging slightly from the main trail about 6 miles
southeast of Salmon River, they diverged southward to the mouth of
S u l l i v a n Creek where t h e CAA had a cabin f o r s h e l t e r e n r o u t e ,
The
d e t o u r s k i r t e d an a r e a of warm s p r i n g s n e a r S u l l i v a n Roadhouse on t h e
main t r a i l , t h u s avoiding t h e danger of having t h e t r a c t o r s f a l l through
the ice.
The CAA overland f u e l haul operated from 1943-44 u n t i l t h e
l a t e 1 9 5 0 ' s , when f u e l t r a n s p o r t by a i r from Anchorage was i n s t i t u t e d .
A f t e r t h e CAA f u e l h a u l ceased, t r a f f i c on t h e I d i t a r o d T r a i l dwindled
t o t h e movement of a few t r a p p e r s and some w i n t e r t r a v e l between v i l l a g e s and mining a r e a s , mainly around t h e McGrath a r e a .
I n 1967, a s
p a r t of t h e Alaska Centennial c e l e b r a t i o n , a 55-mile dogsled r a c e was
run on t h e t r a i l o u t of Knik.
i n t h e t r a i l by dog mushers.
This r a c e caused a resurgence of i n t e r e s t
Organized under t h e guidance and i n s p i r -
P
a t i o n of J o e Red i n g t o n S r . , a dog musher f o r many y e a r s , the I d i t a r o d
Sled Dog Race from Anchorage t o Nome was i n s t i t u t e d a s an annual e v e n t
i n 1973.
I n t h e t r a d i t i o n of t h e h i s t o r i c t r a i l , t h e r a c e r o u t e d i v e r g e s s l i g h t l y
from y e a r t o y e a r .
One p r i n c i p a l r o u t e proceeds n o r t h from Ophir t o
Poorman and Ruby and t h e n west along t h e Yukon River t o Kaltag.
This
r o u t e t r a v e l s through a number of Native v i l l a g e s where dog mushing has
been a way of l i f e f o r g e n e r a t i o n s .
I n o t h e r y e a r s , r a c e r s have been
routed along Hunter T r a i l from Ophir t o I d i t a r o d , t h e n west over t h e
Winter T r a i l t o Shageluk and Anvik, then n o r t h t o K a l t a g , a r o u t e a l s o
used during t h e h i s t o r i c mining p e r i o d .
INVENTORY
A t the outset of this investigation little information was available
concerning the present condition of historic structures and other features associated with the Iditarod Trail. Field investigations were
undertaken to provide a firm data base from which stabilization and
protection needs for significant historic resources could be determined.
A search of pertinent literature and contact with knowledgeable indi-
viduals served to supplement the field examinations by verifying the
identity and historic significance of each site. Historic photographs
aided in the identification of certain sites and provided information
concerning their original condition.
The BLM undertook low level aerial reconnaissance along the trail during
the 1976 and 1978 field seasons. All of the sites located from the air
were plotted on USGS topographic maps (1:63,360 scale) and photographed
with 35 mm. color film.
Many of the historic sites identified in the aerial reconnaissance that
are on land administered by BLM were examined on the ground, mapped, and
photographed. Alaska Historic Resource Survey (AHRS) numbers were given
to all structures along the trail for which exact locations and historical significance could be documented. Those structures whose historical significance could not be determined were given temporary BLM
inventory numbers. Access to sites examined on the ground was by heli-
c o p t e r t o the n e a r e s t s a f e l a n d i n g p l a c e , t h e n overland on f o o t .
Site
s k e t c h e s and p l a n s of a c c e s s i b l e s t r u c t u r e s were made a t each s i t e .
Some of t h e s i t e s t h a t a r e mentioned i n h i s t o r i c r e f e r e n c e s have not y e t
been l o c a t e d on t h e ground.
These a s y e t unlocated s i t e s a r e d i s c u s s e d
i n o r d e r of t h e i r probable occurrence a l o n g t h e t r a i l .
A t o t a l of 47 s i t e s were i d e n t i f i e d d u r i n g t h e survey.
r e c e i v e d d e t a i l e d , on-the-ground
observed from t h e a i r .
examination.
Twelve o f t h e s e
The o t h e r 35 s i t e s were
E i g h t a d d i t i o n a l s i t e s were noted i n t h e l i t e r -
a t u r e , but not located.
Only p a r t of t h e I d i t a r o d T r a i l i s covered i n t h i s r e p o r t , t h a t p o r t i o n
from Rainy Pass i n t h e Alaska Mountain Range t o U n a l a k l e e t on Norton
Sound, which i s s l i g h t l y less t h a n t h r e e - f o u r t h s of t h e o r i g i n a l t r a i l .
For convenience t h i s segment of t h e t r a i l i s d i v i d e d h e r e i n t o s i x
s u b - s e c t i o n s , s t a r t i n g a t P a s s Creek j u s t s o u t h of Rainy Pass and progr e s s i n g northwestward t o U n a l a k l e e t , g i v i n g a t o t a l t r a i l l e n g t h o f
about 700 m i l e s .
S i t e s along t h e t r a i l a r e discussed i n t h e general
o r d e r t h a t they occur w i t h i n each s u b - s e c t i o n .
RAINY PASS TO TAKOTNA
A t Rainy Pass t h e I d i t a r o d T r a i l c r o s s e s t h e Alaska Mountain Range and
b e g i n s i t s d e s c e n t i n t o t h e Kuskokwim Lowlands.
The t r a i l t r a n s e c t s t h e
a l p i n e tundra of Rainy P a s s t h e n drops down t o t h e f o r e s t e d f o o t h i l l s
a l o n g t h e n o r t h e r n f l a n k of t h e Alaska Range, g e n e r a l l y f o l l o w i n g t h e
v a l l e y of t h e South Fork of t h e Kuskokwim.
A s t h e t r a i l crosses t h e
Kuskokwim Lowlands it p a s s e s through a r e a s of s p r u c e f o r e s t s and muskeg.
West of McGrath t h e t r a i l b e g i n s t o climb i n t o t h e low h i l l s of t h e
Kuskokwim Mountains/
(Map 2 ) .
A number of t r i p o d t r a i l m a r k e r s , now c o l l a p s e d , a r e s t i l l v i s i b l e i n t h e
P a s s Creek v i c i n i t y .
Since t h e f i r s t ARC survey, t h e use of t r i p o d s has
proved e s p e c i a l l y e f f e c t i v e i n a r e a s above t r e e l i n e , where it i s o t h e r wise d i f f i c u l t t o mark t h e t r a i l .
Tripods were used because of t h e i r
s t a b i l i t y and e a s e of c o n s t r u c t i o n , and because t h e y could be e a s i l y
e r e c t e d i n a r e a s o f p e r m a f r o s t o r rocky ground.
Much of t h e o r i g i n a l surveyed t r a i l r o u t e i s v i s i b l e between Rainy Pass
and Takotna.
Some p o r t i o n s of t h e t r a i l r o u t e i n t h e canyon of t h e
s o u t h f o r k a r e obscure, p o s s i b l y t r a v e r s i n g t h e f r o z e n r i v e r s u r f a c e o r
p a r a l l e l i n g it n e a r t h e edge of t h e f l o o d p l a i n .
From P i o n e e r Roadhouse
t o Salmon R i v e r t h e t r a i l i s n e a r l y s t r a i g h t and has been rendered
h i g h l y v i s i b l e by t r a c t o r and ATV t r a f f i c over t h e y e a r s .
P a r t of t h e
t r a i l n e a r S u l l i v a n Roadhouse has n o t been impacted however, and r e t a i n s
t h e o l d narrow dogsled t r a i l appearance.
McGrath t h e r o u t e is obscure.
s u r f a c e of t h e Kuskokwim R i v e r .
Apparently t r a f f i c t r a v e l l e d t h e f r o z e n
A well defined t r a i l cuts across Ste-
w a r t ' s bend a t i t s narrowest p o i n t .
v i s i b l e t o Takotna.
Between Salmon River and
West of McGrath t h e t r a i l i s a g a i n
Snow machines and dogsled t r a f f i c have kept t o the
o r i g i n a l surveyed r o u t e , though t h e t r a i l does n o t appear t o have been
u t i l i z e d by t r a c t o r s .
Pass Creek Roadhouse
The ruins of a small structure were located during low-level aerial
reconnaissance on Pass Creek approximately 2/3 mile south of Rainy Pass
Lake.
This is approximately at the location of Pass Creek Roadhouse
site described by Reed (1965:10),
but neither the size of the structure
nor the apparent building materials correspond to Reed's account. Reed
states that, "the roadhouse was a long ramshackle log building facing
south with a log cache on pilings behind" (Reed 1965:lO).
The ruin
observed appears to have been a small, one-room frame building that has
completely collapsed.
The Pass Creek Roadhouse site needs to be determined through historical
background research and additional reconnaissance of the area.
Further
examination of relevant archival and local sources of information may
shed some light on the exact nature of the observed ruins.
Rainy Pass Roadhouse
An establishment referred to as Rainy Pass Roadhouse is described in the
same vicinity as Pass Creek Roadhouse (Rand-McNally 1922:40; Cadwalkader
:.
n.d.:7; and Alaska Road Commission 1916 Map).
No evidence of this
structure was found. Further research is required to identify the exact
location of this roadhouse.
MCG
Dalzell Cabin
-
003
During low-level reconnaissance, the remains of a two-section log structure were observed on the Pass Fork of Dalzell Creek.
It lies on the
west side of the creek about 1/4 mile above the fork. The roof has
collapsed and vegetation has grown up within the walls of one chamber.
Five tiers of wall logs remain standing at one end of the structure. The
other walls are in various stages of collapse.
In 1919 Cadwallader (n.d.20)
saw
an old cabin a short distance from the
mouth of Dalzell Creek where the gorge opens into a small basin. At
that time there were two or more buildings which he notes were built
several years prior to 1917 to serve as a roadhouse. Apparently this
establishment did not operate long because of the poor location.
Reed
(1965:ll) also noted a ruined structure on Dalzell Creek about two miles
below the summit in 1920.
Margaret Mespelt (pers. conno.) mentions that Einar Carlsen, a well-known
trapper in the area during the 1920's and 1 9 3 0 t s , also built a log cabin
near the mouth of Dalzell Creek.
Constructed in the late 1 9 2 0 t s , it
served as a shelter cabin on his trapline.
Whether the ruin seen is actually a roadhouse or not, it could fit we11
into an interpretive plan for the trail and needs to be examined on the
ground to further document the existing situation and to determine any
needs for stabilization or preservation. Additional background research
and reconnaissance needs to be undertaken to identify the exact location
of the Dalzell Roadhouse and determine what remains.
Rohn River Roadhouse
MCG
- 007
Rohn River Roadhouse s i t e i s l o c a t e d a t the confluence of t h e T a t i n a
River (formerly t h e Rohn River) and t h e South Fork of the Kuskokwim
River.
The l o g s t r u c t u r e s a t t h e roadhouse s i t e a r e located i n a charac-
t e r i s t i c g r a s s y c l e a r i n g , approximately 50 y a r d s i n diameter, on the
s o u t h s i d e of t h e T a t i n a River (Figure 3).
On t h e n o r t h e r n s i d e of t h e c l e a r i n g i s a well-preserved l o g cabin w i t h
a prominent wooden tower r i s i n g above t h e c a b i n roof from the extended
r i d g e p o l e and p u r l i n s (Photo 1).
E l e c t r i c a l w i r e s , which extend down
t h e tower t o t h e cabin i n t e r i o r , and what appears t o be p a r t s of a wind
g e n e r a t o r l y i n g n e a r t h e c a b i n i n d i c a t e t h a t t h e tower may have h e l d a
wind g e n e r a t o r a t one time.
(This was v e r i f i e d by Margaret Mespelt).
T h i s c a b i n was a l s o r e p o r t e d l y used a s a weather s t a t i o n a t one time,
probably t o moniter f l i g h t c o n d i t i o n s i n Rainy Pass.
The cabin i t s e l f
appears t o be of l a t e r c o n s t r u c t i o n t h a n t h e o t h e r b u i l d i n g s .
It is i n
a good s t a t e of p r e s e r v a t i o n , w i t h r o o f , f l o o r , and w a l l s intact, a l -
though in need of r e p a i r s .
The s t r u c t u r a l p l a n i s t y p i c a l of s i n g l e -
s t o r y l o g s t r u c t u r e s and t h e cabin d i s p l a y s a moderate amount of a t t e n t i o n t o d e t a i l i n i t s construction.
notched and unshaped.
The spruce logs used a r e c r a d l e -
The i n n e r s u r f a c e of t h e l o g appear t o have been
p e e l e d sometime a f t e r the s t r u c t u r e was b u i l t .
The gabled plank-and-
beam roof incorporates an eave l o g t o r e t a i n t h e sod covering.
Shrubs
and small t r e e s a r e beginning t o t a k e r o o t i n t h e sod covering t h e r o o f .
On the eastern side of the clearing are the remains of an older building. The logs are hewn flat, and notched with half dovetail notches. A
sheet metal roof appears to have been a later addition. The building
has collapsed, but both gables are intact. A ladderlike structure lying
outside the building appears to have been a hay-rack indicating thadtthe
building may have been a stable. Rotting wall logs lie in disarray on
two sides of the building. The logs measure 22 to 24 feet in length.
Other rotting logs about the same length lie overgrown with grass between the cabin and this building. There are also remnants of a large
horse-drawn sled in the clearing.
On the southern side of the clearing is a low vaulted pole structure,
presumably a dog barn, that contains ten stalls, five along each side
wall. Although the roof has collapsed, the walls are partially intact.
A chopping block made from a spruce burl is set in the ground near the
front of the structure and was probably used for chopping frozen meat or
fish for the dogs.
(Photo 2).
A slab privy was attached to the back of
the dog barn but now lies collapsed on the ground.
Other structures at the site include a small doghouse, encroached upon
by young spruce trees at the edge of the clearing and the collapsed
remains of a cache. According to a personal diary kept by Einar Carlsen
when he trapped in this area, a severe earthquake occurred on Good
Friday in 1931, causing the cache at Rohn River to collapse. He referred to this structure as the Anderson cache, possibly after the man who
b u i l t it.
I t i s l i k e l y t h a t t h e c o l l a p s e d cache noted a t t h e site i s
t h e Anderson cache.
There i s no evidence t h a t t h e c a b i n has been used f o r many y e a r s .
The
i n s c r i p t i o n , "Ernie Mattochei, Anch., AAA, Nov. 2 , 1938," w r i t t e n above
t h e doorway i n s i d e t h e cabin i n d i c a t e s t h a t i t was p r o b a b l y used as l a t e
a s 1938.
I n a d d i t i o n t o t h i s , a wooden packing c r a t e on a s h e l f o u t s i d e
t h e c a b i n door i s ' s t e n c i l e d , " C C C , T i t a n a River."
I n a s much a s t h e
C i v i l i a n Conservation Corps (CCC) b u i l t and used a l o g c a b i n n e a r a n
a i r s t r i p a b o u t 1 / 4 mile s o u t h of t h e roadhouse, it i s conceivable t h a t
CCC workers a l s o used t h e c a b i n a t t h e Rohn R i v e r Roadhouse s i t e d u r i n g
t h i s time.
Reed (1965:ll) s t a t e s t h a t t h e o r i g i n a l Rohn R i v e r Roadhouse was a two
s t o r y building.
According t o Margaret Mespelt ( p e r s . c o r n . ) , t h e o r i g i -
n a l s t r u c t u r e burned i n 1924 and was r e b u i l t on t h e s i t e by E i n a r Carl s e n i n 1929.
The r o t t i n g l o g s l y i n g a b o u t t h e c l e a r i n g could r e p r e s e n t
p o r t i o n s of t h e o r i g i n a l b u i l d i n g , a l t h o u g h t h e y showed no evidence o f
charring.
Most l i k e l y t h e two o u t b u i l d i n g s d a t e from t h e o r i g i n a l
roadhouse.
Rohn R i v e r Roadhouse was i n e x i s t e n c e a s e a r l y a s the w i n t e r o f 1910-11
(Alaska Yukon Magazine, J u l y 1911:55).
Cadwallader (n.d.:22)
states
I
t h a t it was owned by t h e R i c h a r d s b r o t h e r s i n 1917.
By 1920 it was
owned and o p e r a t e d by "French J o e , " a c c o r d i n g t o Reed (1965:11) who
passed over the I d i t a r o d Trail a t t h a t time.
A f t e r Einar C a r l s e n re-
built the cabin in 1929, he used it periodically until the late 1940's
(Margaret Mespe1t:pers. corn.).
The cabin at the Rohn River Roadhouse site is in need of minor repairs,
especially to the roof, to protect the structure from imminent deterioration.
Other structures at the site should be stabilized in their
present condition. A fire break should be maintained around all of
these structures. The historical significance of the buildings should be
further evaluated and documented through pertinent archival and local
sources of information. Archeological testing of the site is needed to
assess its potential to contribute to the historical record.
Pioneer Roadhouse
MCG
-
009
Pioneer Roadhouse site lies on the west side of the South Fork of the
Kuskokwim River about 1 mile southeast of the present Farewell Lake
Lodge.
The site is about 50 feet west o f a small side channel of the
South Fork of the Kuskokwim. Four log buildings stand in various degrees of disrepair, and the ruins of two caches lie near the edge of a
clearing that measures approximately 100 feet by 75 feet. (Figure 4).
Two log cabins are still standing on the site. Cabin ##I, which seems to
be the most recent, appears to have been in use in the mid-1930's. A
copy of the Saturday Evening Post in the cabin dated December 25, 1937,
provides a probable date of occupancy.
Cabin #I1is in the best condition of any of the structures at the site.
The sod roof, which had several young trees growing on it until it began
to cave in recently, is largely intact. Now there is a hole about 4
feet in diameter on the southwestern side, and dirt and sod have fallen
through to the sawed plank floor. Some time ago, several metal sheets
made from flattened 5-gallon fuel cans were placed on part of the roof
in an attempt to patch it.
The roof is supported largely by double
ridge logs. Inside, smaller poles extending diagonally from the plate
logs to the ridge beam support the roof of close-set poles that rest on
the ridge and plate logs and are supported by an eave log.
Logs forming the walls of Cabin #I1 are slightly charred, evidence that
they probably were cut from a burned-over area. Herron (1901:54) and
Reed (1965:13) both mention evidence of recent large fires in the Kuskokwim Basin during the early years of the 20th century or late 19th
century. Charred wood is more resistant to deterioration than is uncharred wood, which could account for its relatively good condition.
Logs forming the walls vary in diameter from 6 inches to nearly 12
inches. The inside faces of the logs were hewn flat, probably with an
ax.
There are two windows, the one on the end opposite the door featuring a
shutter that is held in place by two poles and operated by slipping the
poles in and out of vertical cleats alongside the window.
Other open-
ings in the structure include the other window on the west wall, a
m e t a l - l i n e d h o l e i n t h e roof f o r a s t o v e p i p e , and a 6 inch a i r v e n t a t
t h e n o r t h end of t h e cabin, o v e r t h e door.
This a i r vent c o n s i s t s of a
wooden cheese box s e t i n t h e w a l l , with an end f l a p f o r c o n t r o l l i n g
ventilation.
The main f u r n i s h i n g s of Cabin #I c o n s i s t of f o u r bunk beds and two
tables.
The bunk beds, two upper and two lower, a r e made of p o l e s and
a r e a t t a c h e d t o t h e w a l l o p p o s i t e t h e door.
The t a b l e s a r e b u i l t i n
a g a i n s t t h e w a l l s , and one i s s u r f a c e d w i t h f l a t t e n e d c o f f e e cans.
S k u l l s of a moose, an immature D a l l sheep, and a s m a l l c a n i n e l i e a t o p
the roof of Cabin #1.
Although t h e s k u l l s a r e whitened and beginning to
d e t e r i o r a t e from weathering, i t was n o t p o s s i b l e t o judge how l o n g t h e y
had been t h e r e .
S e v e r a l s k u l l s of moose and c a r i b o u were a l s o found
between t h e dog b a r n and t h e shed.
B o t t l e s p i l e d on t h e f l o o r j u s t
i n s i d e t h e door appear t o d a t e from t h e 1920's o r 1 9 3 0 ' s .
Cabin /#2 i s i n g e n e r a l l y poor c o n d i t i o n and i s p r o b a b l y o l d e r t h a n Cabin
1
The roof has completely c o l l a p s e d , b u t t h e w a l l s a r e s t i l l s t a n d -
ing.
From t h e s i m i l a r i t y o f c o n s t r u c t i o n it appears t h a t t h i s c a b i n ,
t h e shed and dog barn may have been c o n s t r u c t e d by the same i n d i v i d u a l .
A modified s a d d l e n o t c h was used on a l l t h r e e s t r u c t u r e s , b u t n o t i n V
shape.
R a t h e r , f l a t l o g s e a t s were prepared w i t h o u t a great d e a l of
attention t o detail.
There were two s e t s of bunks i n s i d e t h e c a b i n c o n s t r u c t e d from p o l e s .
Items found i n t h e cabin included enameled metal p l a t e s , Oriental t y p e
s t i c k matches, a homemade pole c l o t h e s drying r a c k , and f u e l cans.
Another small l o g s t r u c t u r e on t h e west s i d e of t h e c l e a r i n g appears t o
have been a s t o r a g e shed o r s t a b l e .
roof and i s w i t h o u t windows.
I t has a low g e n t l y s l o p i n g shed
A harness r i n g n a i l e d l o w on t h e s o u t h
w a l l s u g g e s t s t h a t a t one time it may have served t o s h e l t e r dogs.
I
The f o u r t h s t r u c t u r e a t t h i s s i t e was i d e n t i f i e d a s t h e dog b a r n by t h e
presence of s m a l l s t a l l s and by the gnawed wood a t t h e base of each
stall.
windows.
There a r e two doorways, one on each end of t h e b u i l d i n g , and no
Wooden pegs i n t h e w a l l s i n d i c a t e t h a t t h e r e were once p a r t i -
t i o n s f o r 20 dog s t a l l s .
L a t e r t h e s t a l l s were a p p a r e n t l y enlarged t o
twice t h e size of t h e o r i g i n a l c u b i c l e s .
The roof i s completely gone.
The n o r t h e r n end of t h e b u i l d i n g appears t o have had a porch of s o r t s .
Remains of two caches were found (Fig. 4 ) .
The l a r g e r , Cache #,I, had
o r i g i n a l l y been e l e v a t e d approximately 8 f e e t above t h e ground.
Flat-
tened f u e l cans t h a t had been wrapped around t h e t o p s of the supporting
poles a r e s t i l l i n place.
t h e cache i s i n r u i n s .
One p o l e i s s t i l l s t a n d i n g b u t the r e s t of
What appears t o have been a n o t h e r cache e a s t of
Cabin #2 (cache {,2) has t o t a l l y c o l l a p s e d .
A t r a s h p i l e l o c a t e d near t h e n o r t h e a s t e r n c o r n e r o f Cabin #2 shows some
s i g n s of d i s t u r b a n c e .
I t i s p o s s i b l e t h a t t h e b o t t l e s i n s i d e Cabin ill
had been cached t h e r e by a c o l l e c t o r from t h i s source.
Near t h e northwestern corner of Cabin 1'12 a shallow r e c t a n g u l a r depress i o n was n o t e d .
I t was impossible t o determine from s u p e r f i c i a l examin-
a t i o n i f it was of c u l t u r a l o r i g i n .
The c l e a r i n g around t h e s i t e had grown up w i t h p o p l a r saplings from one
t o 1 0 f e e t i n h e i g h t and a few s p r u c e , willows, and o t h e r shrubs.
The
second growth trees and shrubs encroaching on t h e c l e a r i n g were removed
a t t h e t i m e t h e s i t e was examined, i n part t o allow photographing and
mapping, and i n p a r t t o reduce t h e f i r e hazard t o t h e s t r u c t u r e s and t o
allow unobstructed a c c e s s t o r i v e r water i n c a s e of f i r e .
Pioneer Roadhouse has had o t h e r names over t h e y e a r s .
I t was known a s
"French J o e ' s " a f t e r t h e French Canadian, J o e B l a n c h e l l , who was i t s
p r o p r i e t o r f o r many y e a r s (Irwin 1968:15; Margaret Mespelt, p e r s . corn.
photo 3). I t i s a l s o i d e n t i f i e d as Farewell Mountain Roadhouse on t h e
Alaska Road Commission map, 1916, and on t h e USGS McGrath topographic
map, 1949.
Rand-McNally (1922:40) i d e n t i f i e s i t a s Pioneer Roadhouse.
Pioneer Roadhouse served a s headquarters f o r E i n a r Caxlsen and J i m
Davidson while they were t r a p p i n g i n t h e a r e a during 1928 and 1929
(Margaret Mespelt, p e r s . comm.).
Cabin #1 a t t h e Pioneer Roadhouse s i t e should be r e p a i r e d and mairitained, and t h e o t h e r s t r u c t u r e s on the s i t e s t a b l i z e d i n t h e i r p r e s e n t
condition.
tures.
A f i r m break should b e maintained around e x i s t i n g s t r u c -
F u r t h e r a r c h i v a l and a r c h e o l o g i c a l r e s e a r c h concerning t h i s site
would probably prove f r u i t f u l .
Peluk Roadhouse
Peluk Roadhouse site was found and examined briefly during the 1976
field season. In August 1977 the Bear Creek fire burned over the area
and destroyed what remained of the roadhouse. Some of the data presented here was collected on the ground in 1976 before the fire, and the
site was also revisited in 1978 after the fire.
The historic cabin site identified as Peluk Roadhouse was found on the
Iditarod Trail approximately 1.5 miles southeast of where it crosses the
upper end of Bear Creek.
A small grassy clearing surrounded by birch
trees marked the site. The remains of two log structures were situated
facing each other on the northwest side of the clearing (Figure 5).
The remains of one cabin with unhewn, cradle-notched logs had a galvanized sheet-metal roof, with sawn plank underpinning (Photo 4).
The
sheet metal roofing may have been more recent than the rest of the
structure. The walls were collapsed and decomposing. A loft was evident under at least part of the roof in this cabin.
The other log structure was also built of unhewn, cradle-notched logs
and had a sod-covered pole-and-beam roof. Walls and roof were collapsed
and in an advanced state of decomposition in 1976. Sod embankments
adjoining this structure appeared to outline other foundation features
that had almost disappeared (Figureb5).
The remains of a makeshift bridge were found where the trail crosses a
small drainage channel just to the west of the site. A log-cribbed
excavation, identified by Miska Diaphon (pers. corn.) as a well, was
located just below the trail crossing on the east side of the channel
(Figure 5). It extended down for 6 feet but appeared to have been partially filled with sediment washed in by the intermittent stream. Tin
cans, bottles, and other trash were scattered around the southern side
of the clearing opposite the buildings. A few logs showing auger holes
and shaping were scattered about the clearing and may represent elements
of other earlier structures.
A hand-made clothing rack was nailed to a wall log inside the east cabin
(!I2 on Figure 5).
It was constructed of half a split log approximately
3 feet long and 5 inches in diameter with eight holes augered into it at
an angle.
Shaped pegs were driven into the auger holes to hang cloth-
ing. This rack was burned, along with the cabin, by the Bear Creek fire
in 1977.
Examination of Peluk Roadhouse site in 1977 and 1978 revealed that the
Bear Creek fire had reduced the organic remains of the structures to
ashes.
Only t h e outline of the foundations, discernible by the burned
out rectangular depression filled with ash, and the sheet-metal roofing
from the west cabin remained.
away.
Even the sod embankments were burned
The dry remains appear to have caught a spark from the fire as it
swept through the surrounding spruce vegetation in a northeasterly
direction. Vegetation on three sides remained unscrathed except for the
scorched trees adjacent to the structures.
Forest and tundra fires are not new to this part of the Kuskokwim Basin.
Reed (1965:12), in describing his journey over the Iditarod Trail in
1920, mentions seeing fire-blackened landscape before he reached Peluk
Roadhouse and for three days afterward.
Peluk Roadhouse was in existence in 1914 when it was operated by Frank
Creoli (Miska Diaphon, pers. corn.).
It is shown by name on the 1916
Alaska Road Commission map of Alaska and Rand-McNallp ( 1 9 2 2 : 4 0 ) .
It was
reportedly owned and operated by Frank Creoli until some time before he
left the area in 1929 (Margaret Mespelt, pers. comm. photo 5).
Although little in the way of structural remains still exist at the
Peluk Roadhouse site, the site has a high potential to contribute information on the effects of fire on historical sites. The integrity of
this site should be preserved until its archeological potential to
contribute to the historic record can be determined.
Sullivan Roadhouse
MCG-017
The Sullivan Roadhouse site is located on a marshy area on the north
I
side of Sullivan Creek, approximately five miles east of its junction
with Pitka Fork where Goodwins trail crosses Sullivan Creek.
The swampy
terrain around the site prevented it from burning in the 1977 Bear Creek
fire.
Vegetation covering the site made it almost i n v i s i b l e by air. Only the
remains of two old bridges crossing Sullivan Creek at the site were
visible from above.
Remains of two and possiblythree structures were found at the site, as
well as the remains of two log bridges (Figure 6).
Little was left of
the larger log building except foundation logs. Brush and vegetation
mat entirely covered the logs.
Remains of a cache were
id
better condition. The support posts, which
had collapsed, were 90 inches long and 8 to 10 inches i n diameter.
Small metal cans encircled the supports 6 inches below their tops.
tops had V-cuts to support cross posts.
The
Wall logs averaged 6 inches in
diameter. Unhewn logs with cradle notches were used in construction of
the walls, which are still partially intact. The distinctive cache door
was made of l-by 8-inch boards nailed together with a 2 bracing of l-by
4-inch boards.
This unusual design may be of value in identifying or
verifying photographs of the old roadhouse.
The doorway of the cache fronted almost onto the Iditarod Trail. The
rusted remains of a small s t o v e sits on the ground between the cabin and
the cache (Figure 6).
Decaying logs lying under surface vegetation were found on a slightly
elevated grassy spot east of the ruins of the cabin and cache. Several
whitened bones at this location suggest that a dog barn may have been
located there.
According to Phillip Esai who has a trap line in the vicinity, the old
bridge at the stream crossing was replaced in 1951 by a new bridge
slightly upstream. The old bridge is in line with the route traversed
by the Iditarod Trail, which is still visible in this area and retains
much of its original character, unmodified by modern vehicle traffic.
Sullivan Roadhouse is said to have been built in 1914 by Sam Naswalker;
the Vanderpools ran it for one year in the 1920's and called it "Salmon
River" Roadhouse (Miska ~iaphon
, pers
. comm.) .
The roadhouse is identi-
fied as Sullivan Roadhouse on the 1916 Alaska Road Commission map and
Rand-McNally (1920:40). Irwin (1968:15) lists it as one of the roadmail trail. He locates it between Peluk
houses on the ~eward-~ditarod
and Salmon River Roadhouses.
The cultural remains at the Sullivan Roadhouse site should be maintained
and stabilized pending the development of a comprehensive cultural
resource management plan that includes this site. Archeological investigations in the vicinity of the supposed dog barn may be necessary to
document the historic use of that portion of the site.
Bear Creek Roadhouse
Bear Creek Roadhouse is shown between Sullivan and Salmon River Road-
house on the 1916 Alaska Road Commission Map and Rand-McNally (1922:40).
Miska Diaphon (pers. corn.) states that it was active for only two
years, from 1914 to 1916, as the distance between roadhouses was too
short and business was poor. No sign of the site was visible from the
air in 1976 or 1978.
The exact location of the Bear Creek Roadhouse site should be determined
through historic documentation and an on-the-ground examination, and its
potential for historic archeological research evaluated.
Salmon River Roadhouse
MCG-013
Salmon River Roadhouse site
was located and
examined in 1976. It l i e s
at the confluence of Salmon River and Pitka Fork. The structural remains associated with the roadhouse lay immediately adjacent to more
recent log buildings owned and used by Miska Diaphon, a local resident
who has a fishing camp there. Photo 6 shows the site as it appeared in'
1919.
@
Log foundations and other features identified at this site in 1976 are
shown in Figure 7.
The multiwalled structure toward the eastern edge of
the site showed no evidence of doorways cut into the logs. The other
two
structural remains near it had high banks of sod outlining them.
Outlines that may have been foundations of buildings were found just
east of the existing cache.
fiable in the outlines.
No doorways or other features were identi-
Eight aligned posts projecting just above the
surface of the ground were found northeast of these features, near the
edge of the clearing.
In August 1977, the Bear Creek fire consumed most of the older features
remaining at Salmon River Roadhouse as well as the recent log cabin.
During the 1978 field season when the site was reexamined, very little
remained of the older features at the site. The moldering foundation
logs of the structure by the e x t a n t cache had burned away, and the ashes
were overgrown by grass. Parts of the logs forming a double-walled
foundation, as well as the four-chambered structural foundation adjacent
to it, were found under the grass.
All sign of the sod banks had been
obliterated by the fire.
The name, Salmon River Roadhouse, has been applied to both the site at
the confluence of Pitka Fork and Salmon River and to the site on Sullivan Creek.
Cadwallader (n.d.:27) lists Salmon River Roadhouse as 28
miles from Big River, which is the distance to the site on Sullivan
Creek. When the Vanderpools owned the roadhouse on Sullivan Creek in
the early 1920's it also went by the name of Salmon River Roadhouse.
The 1916 Alaska Road Commission map of Alaska and Rand-McNally Guide to
Alaska and Yukon (1922:40) show the roadhouse at that location to be
Sullivan Roadhouse, and they label the roadhouse that is located at the
junction of Pitka Fork and Salmon River as Salmon Creek Roadhouse.
Virgil Knight (pers. cornrn.) stated that Salmon River was also commonly
called Salmon Creek.
foundation was located approximately 250 yards northeast of the extant
structures.
Vestiges of a trail are still present under the canopy of
trees on the approach to the roadhouse site from the extant buildings.
The old woodburning stove spotted from the air is half-buried near the
feature identified as the roadhouse ruins.
Little in the way of structural remains still exists at the roadhouse
A deep, generally rectangular depression, oriented along a north-
site.
west-southeast axis, is probably the foundation remains of the roadhouse
(Figure 8 ) .
It appears that the northwest end of the structure may have
been the front, though this is a tentative designation. This "front"
end was marked by the deepest depression, and may represent the remnants
of a cellar under the main structure.
A t the opposite or southeast end of the roadhouse foundation there is a
partially intact structural feature. This structure may have been a
cold storage cache.
poles.
The walls of the structure are made of 3 inch thick
The roof consists of close-set poles covered with a 10 inch
thick layer of sod.
Across the trail to the north of the roadhouse location, is a small
clearing where there may have been another structure. The general
outline of a possible structural foundation for a small building suggests
that a dog barn may have been located in this a r e a .
A small cemetery area lies on the southern side of the trail near the
Irwin (1968:15) located Salmon River Roadhouse at 17 miles from Big
River and 12 miles from Sullivan Creek, which closely approximates the
distance between the sites that have been located and identified as such
in this report.
Although little remains of structural features at the Salmon River
Roadhouse site, there are enough surface indications to suggest that the
site may be valuable for historic archeological excavations. The ground
surface should be protected from any disturbing activities that could
damage archeological deposits. Further investigation of historic documentation of the site could also provide useful information for the
evaluation and management of the site.
Bie River Roadhouse
A site identified as Big River Roadhouse is shown on the 1958 USGS
topographic map. An interview with Phillip Esai of Nicolai Village
revealed that this is actually the location of an extant cabin and
outbuildings that belonged to his parents years ago and that the site of
the roadhouse lies several hundred feet to the northeast. A thick
canopy of deciduous forest has impinged on the site, making it difficult
to see from the air.
Only a slight thinning of the closed forest around
the old clearing,wherethe roadhouse once stood can be seen from directly overhead. An old cast-iron stove is visible in this tiny open area.
When on-the-ground examination of the site was made, the old roadhouse
Esai cabin.
It contains about a dozen graves, marked by Russian Ortho-
dox style crosses. The site is heavily overgrown.
Big River Roadhouse was in existence by 1910 (Alaska Yukon Magazine XI,
1911:55).
It was built by Arthur Berry, a trapper in the area, who sub-
sequently built Berry's Landing at Medfra (Margaret Mespelt, pers.
connn.).
By 1917, the Big River Roadhouse was operated by Mr. Sherwood
(Cadwallader, n.d.:8).
Big River Roadhouse is listed as "Berry's" Roadhouse on the 1916 Alaska
Road Commission map of Alaska. Rand-McNally (1922:40) locates and
labels it as Big River Roadhouse (Fig. 1).
it as Berry's Big River Roadhouse.
Irwin (1965:16) identifies
Reed (1965:13) mentions that in 1920
Big River Roadhouse and Trading Post was a large establishment.
The Big River Roadhouse site needs to be more fully documented to adaquately evaluate its historic significance. A thorough search of relevant archival and local information sources plus an intensive program
of archeological testing and excavation should reveal a great deal more
information about this site.
CUT-OFF FROM SALMON RIVER TO MCGRATH
The cutoff on the Iditarod Trail from near Salmon River almost directly
west to McGrath existed in 1922 (Rand-McNally 1922:40).
Progressing
directly overland for about 36 miles, it apparently provided a short cut
of a few miles between t h e two p o i n t s .
cutoff:
Two s i t e s were found near t h i s
a well-preserved cabin on P i t k a Fork and remains of Smiths'
Roadhouse on Blackwater Creek/
(Map 2 ) .
This a l t e r n a t e t r a i l passes
through less densely f o r e s t e d t e r r a i n than t h e main t r a i l , and probably
was the p r e f e r r e d r o u t e once it became e s t a b l i s h e d .
P i t k a Fork Cabin
A l o g cabin on P i t k a Fork was observed j u s t above t h e mouth of S u l l i v a n
Creek.
Because of i t s l o c a t i o n near t h e t r a i l and because it i s an
e x t a n t c a b i n , it was examined on t h e ground.
The lone c a b i n i s i n a small c l e a r i n g t h a t has begun t o f i l l i n with
second growth spruce (Photo 7 ; Figure 9 ) .
The f l o o r i s c o n s t r u c t e d from
sawn 1 by 8 i n c h f l o o r b o a r d s , overlying p o l e j o i s t s 4 i n c h e s i n diamet e r . The roof i s composed of c l o s e - s e t 6 t o 8 i n c h p o l e s under an i n s u l a t i n g l a y e r of moss o v e r l a i n by sod.
The p o l e s forming the roof a r e
p a r t i a l l y supported from beneath by another p o l e placed d i a g o n a l l y from
t h e p l a t e l o g t o t h e r i d g e log.
A t a b l e , bunks, cupboard, and c a b i n e t
were observed i n s i d e t h e cabin.
There i s no longer a s t o v e o r stovepipe
i n t h e c a b i n , though a h o l e i n t h e roof f o r t h e s t o v e p i p e i n d i c a t e s t h a t
t h e s t o v e once stood i n t h e f r o n t of t h e cabin behind t h e door.
There
i s an o l d b a r r e 1 , s t o v e n o t f a r from t h e cabin that may once have been
inside.
Some of t h e planking has been t o r n from t h e bunks, t a b l e and cupboards.
A fallen spruce tree has broken through part of the roof, allowing
moisture in which has rotted part of the flooring and joists beneath the
hole, The window glass and shutters are missing so moisture is also
beginning to come in from that source.
Magazines dated from the late 1930's and the 1940's are still lying on
the bunks. Names with accompanying dates ranging from 1943 to 1966 are
inscribed on the walls as testimony of travelers who had used the cabin.
Inquiries made in McGrath about the cabin's identity indicate that it
was built in the late 1930's or early 1940's.
According to Ray Collins,
a resident of McGrath (pers. corn.), the cabin was used as a stop-over
point for Civil Aeronautics Administration (CAA) tractor-train crews who
were freighting fuel overland from Salmon River to the CAA station at
Farewell. Subsequent interviews with officials of the Federal Aviation
Administration (formerly CAA) in McGrath and Anchorage confirmed this.
The cabin was abandoned by CAA in the 1940's after a wannigan was constructed, which could be hauled on the tractor train and used as
emergency shelter (Virgil Knight, pers. comm.; CAA film reels, 1948 and
1954).
Since that time area trappers have occasionally used the cabin
for shelter.
The Pitka Fork FAA cabin needs stabilization and minor repair work to
preserve its integrity. The hole in the roof should be patched, the
window glass and shutters replaced, and the floor repaired. A simple
stove should be installed so that an occasional occupant would not be
tempted to light a fire in an unsafe manner, endangering the entire
structure.
Smith's Roadhouse
MCG-016
Rand-McNally (1922:40) locates Smith's Roadhouse on the cutoff trail
from Salmon Creek (Salmon River) to McGrath. The thick forest canopy in
t h e vicinity .of Blackwater Creek made spotting the site from the air
impossible. The site location was obtained from Phillip Esai of Nicolai, who runs a trap line through the vicinity.
The roadhouse site lies on the western bank of Blackwater Creek in a
closed deciduous forest. A faintly visible trail can be seen approachi n g t h e forested stream course from the east and the west, and it was
possible t o walk almost directly to t h e site from the west trail.
Although the buildings a r e in ruins, it was possible to identify and
measure each structure.
The building complex consisted of a two-room log cabin and a small
doghouse adjacent to it, a cache, and three low dog barns (Figure 10).
The cabin is composed of two log cabins that share a common .wall. The
roof and floors are gone, and the walls have partially collapsed. The
wall logs and window frames lie toppled outward on the ground outside of
the structure.
The l o g s used i n t h e c a b i n ' s c o n s t r u c t i o n v a r i e d i n diameter from 9 t o
12 i n c h e s , w i t h t h e l a r g e s t l o g s a t t h e b a s e and o t h e r s graduated i n
s i z e t o t h e eaves.
The logs had been planed o f f w i t h a broadax on one
s i d e t o form f l a t i n t e r i o r w a l l s .
s a d d l e notches.
The c o r n e r s were formed w i t h modified
Walls were chinked w i t h moss.
The double common w a l l
.between t h e two cabins i s 20 inches t h i c k and has a doorway n e a r t h e
c e n t e r (Figure 1 0 ) .
A gable-shaped wooden f e a t u r e , sheathed i n s h e e t
i r o n , l i e s on t h e ground o u t s i d e t h e c a b i n .
I t appears t o have been an
a i r vent.
The cache t o t h e south of t h e cabin was b u i l t d i r e c t l y on t h e ground.
The roof has c o l l a p s e d , b u t t h e w a l l l o g s a r e s t i l l i n t a c t .
The w a l l s
were c o n s t r u c t e d of unbarked spruce l o g s , 6 t o 9 inches i n diameter,
w i t h sawn ends, and moss chinking.
There i s no evidence of a f l o o r .
b i r c h t r e e 6 inches i n diameter has grown up i n s i d e t h e cache.
A
A col-
l a p s e d keg w i t h galvanized i r o n hoops l i e s i n s i d e t h e cache on t h e
e a s t e r n s i d e near the wall.
A s m a l l doghouse constructed of unbarked spruce s l a b s l i e s between t h e
cache and t h e cabin.
I t has two small compartments.
A shallow speckled
enamel pan was found on t h e ground j u s t o u t s i d e t h e s t r u c t u r e .
Three l o n g , low dog barns and foundations of a f o u r t h a r e l o c a t e d approximately 60 f e e t n o r t h of t h e cabin (Figure 1 0 ) .
There i s no e v i -
dence t h a t t h e f o u r t h s t r u c t u r e was e v e r completed.
Although t h e l o g s
from which t h e barns were c o n s t r u c t e d have b a d l y d e t e r i o r a t e d , t h e size
,
and form of each b u i l d i n g can s t i l l be determined.
composed of 14 s t a l l s .
wide.
Each s t r u c t u r e was
S e p a r a t e e n t r i e s i n t o each stall were 1 8 i n c h e s
The h e i g h t of t h e b a r n s a t t h e t o p c e n t e r was 48 inches.
Wall
l o g s u p p o r t s were s t a k e s 37 i n c h e s h i g h , s u g g e s t i n g t h a t h e i g h t o f t h e
s i d e w a l l s was 37 i n c h e s ,
Some information on t h e h i s t o r y of Smith's Roadhouse was o b t a i n e d from
r e s i d e n t s of McGrath and N i c o l a i .
The roadhouse was b u i l t by P a u l
M e l l i c k i n 1914 (Miska Diaphon, p e r s . comm.).
I t was o p e r a t e d f o r
C h a r l i e ''White Dog" Smith f o r a w h i l e i n 1921 by t h e l a t e P e t e Snow S r .
(Evelyn Snow, p e r s . comm.).
The s i t e was sometimes c a l l e d Blackwater
Roadhouse because of i t s l o c a t i o n on Blackwater Creek.
The r u i n s a t S m i t h f s Roadhouse s i t e should be s t a b i l i z e d t o p r e v e n t
f u r t h e r d e t e r i o r a t i o n of t h e s i t e .
F u r t h e r e v a l u a t i o n of t h e h i s t o r i c
s i g n i f i c a n c e and a r c h e o l o g i c a l p o t e n t i a l o f t h e s i t e can be made t h r o u g h
more i n t e n s i v e s t u d y .
Old McGrath
Old McGrath, e s t a b l i s h e d i n 1907 a s a s m a l l t r a d i n g p o s t , l i e s a l o n g
b o t h s i d e s o f a slough t h a t once formed t h e mouth of t h e Takotna R i v e r .
I t l i e s on t h e r o u t e of t h e Old I d i t a r o d T r a i l where it p a s s e s on t h e
n o r t h e r n s i d e of t h e Kuskokwim R i v e r , d i r e c t l y a c r o s s from t h e p r e s e n t
town of McGrath.
A number of roadhouses were operated o v e r t h e y e a r s i n
Old McGrath.
(Photo 8 ) .
Dave Clough had two l o g roadhouses a t d i f -
f e r e n t times i n Old McGrath.
Twitchel1,pers. comm.).
He operated another a t Nixon's Fork (Timothy
Crumin's Roadhouse i n Old McGrath f l o u r i s h e d i n
t h e 1920's and e a r l y 1930's (Margaret Mespelt, p e r s . comm).
Mitchell's
Roadhouse c a t e r e d t o t r a p p e r s who came t o town t o t r a d e t h e i r f u r s f o r
p r o v i s i o n s (Margaret Mespelt, p e r s . comm.).
People began moving t o t h e p r e s e n t McGrath townsite i n t h e l a t e 1930's
when t h e Takotna River changed i t s course.
I n 1951, t h e l a s t r e s i d e n t s
of Old McGrath abandoned t h e i r house (Evelyn Snow, p e r s . comm.).
Time d i d not allow a thorough on-the-ground i n s p e c t i o n of t h e o l d townsite.
S u p e r f i c i a l examination of t h e s i t e r e v e a l s t h a t a number of old
l o g b u i l d i n g s a r e p r e s e n t a s we11 a s t h e remains of a t l e a s t t h r e e
r i v e r b o a t s , t h e L a v e l l e Young, t h e Tana and t h e burned remains of t h e
Quickstep.
Old McGrath i s on land t h a t i s c u r r e n t l y Federal p r o p e r t y , b u t w i l l
probably be p a t e n t e d t o t h e v i l l a g e of McGrath a s p a r t of t h e i r v i l l a g e
s e l e c t i o n under t h e Alaska N a t i v e Claims Settlement Act (ANCSA).
Until
management r e s p o n s i b l i t y p a s s e s from government hands, t h e h i s t o r i c
resources a t Old McGrath should be maintained.
F u r t h e r s t u d y and doc-
umentation of t h e s i t e i s r e q u i r e d t o determine i f it q u a l i f i e s a s a
'National R e g i s t e r s i t e o r d i s t r i c t , and t o determine needs f o r s t a b i lization/protection.
TAKOTNA TO KALTAG
The I d i t a r o d T r a i l extends northwest from Takotna f o r 145 miles t o
K a l t a g on t h e Yukon (Map 3).
From Takotna t o T o l s t o i the t r a i l t r a v e r -
s e s t h e Kuskokwim Mountain Range, following along t h e valleys of Gaines
Creek and t h e headwaters of t h e Innoko River and c r o s s i n g low mountain
passes.
I n t h e v i c i n i t y of T o l s t o i the t r a i l drops down i n t o t h e I m o k o
lowlands, a l a r g e f l a t p l a i n d o t t e d with l a k e s .
From there t h e trail
winds through t h e low h i l l s of t h e Kaiyuh Mountains and i n t o Kaltag on
t h e Yukon River.
Some s e c t i o n s of t h e t r a i l between Takotna and Kaltag r e t a i n the charact e r i s t i c appearance o f t h e o l d t r a i l , while o t h e r s e c t i o n s have been
h e a v i l y m o d i f i e d i n r e c e n t y e a r s , and o t h e r s e c t i o n s have disappeared
because of d i s u s e .
The t r a i l from Takotna t o Ophir i s almost completely
o v e r l a i n by a modern State-owned road.
The 26-mile l o n g wagon road
connecting Takotna and Ophir was c o n s t r u c t e d between 1917 and 1923 (ARC
Annual Report, 1923:86,88).
This i s r e a d i l y v i s i b l e and appears t o b e
well maintained a s a n a c c e s s road between Takotna, Ophir, and t h e mining
o p e r a t i o n s on the c r e e k s between t h e two towns.
Also v i s i b l e today i s a
24-mile long s l e d road following Independence Creek t o t h e Innoko River.
I t was b u i l t between Takotna and Ophir i n t h e e a r l y 1920's and was
superimposed on t h e o l d t r a i l except f o r t h e p o r t i o n between Yankee
Creek and Ophir.
This p a r t had been washed away by t h e Innoko River, s o
t h e s l e d t r a i l was b u i l t some distance away from t h e r i v e r on t h e Innoko
F l a t s (ARC Annual R e p o r t , 1923: 81).
.
Intermittant remnants of the old trail between Ophir and Dishkakat can
still be seen. The old trail is impossible to follow northwest of
Boxcar Roadhouse. Maddren (1910:38) describes the winter route followed
by the Iditarod Trail as going between the Dishna and Upper Imoko
Rivers, then crossing a low mountain range at an elevation of about
1,300 feet above sea level by way of a low, wide pass with easy grades
approaching it from either side. The pass by way of American Creek o v e r
to Hurst Creek satisfies this description perfectly. Trail sections arc
quite evident between Boob Creek and Tolstoi although this could possibly be accounted for by latter day mining activities.
An aerial reconnaissance of the trail was made from Dishkakat to Kaltag,
following the west bank of the Little Mud River, also known as the
Kluklaklatna (Orth, 1971:586), up to the headwaters of Magitchlie Creek
and over a low pass to the Yukon drainage. This route is shown on the
map of the Kuskokwim district in the ARC Annual Report for 1924 (Figure
11).
No sign of the trail was seen between Dishkakat and the Yukon
River. The vegetation obscuring the segments of the trail crossing
overland could account in part for the trail's lack of visibility, as
this segment of the trail up to the Yukon River has had only minimal use
since 1924. Trails were seen from the Yukon crossing to Kaltag, but
these are probably of a more recent date.
Takotna
Takotna, a riverboat landing and supply point for the Imoko Placer
Mining District, was in existence in 1910 (Maddren 1911:243).
According
to Timothy Twitchell (pers. comm.) , several Takotna roadhouses were
operated in the 1920's. John Reek ran the Takotna Roadhouse and post
office. Cap McLane ran a thriving operation at his roadhouse in Takotna
during Prohibition. GullicksontsRoadhouse also was operated there at
that time. Photo 9 shows Takotna as it appeared about 1918,
Takotna was not examined during the course of this project. Further
documentation and an evaluation of the current situation are required
before any recommendations can be made.
Yankee Creek Roadhouse
Yankee Creek Roadhouse was found along the winter sled road approximately 9 miles northwest of Takotna. It lies within 1/4 mile of
the junction of Yankee Creek and the Innoko River. The log building
stands in a grassy clearing approximately 1/8 mile south of the Imoko
River.
It is still standing, and the sheet metal roof is still intact.
Billy Goss operated Yankee Creek Roadhouse during the early 1920's
(Timothy Twitchell, pers. comm.).
Casmir Knotts appropriated it some
time later and is said to have been its last proprietor (Bob Magnuson,
pers. comm.).
According to Timothy Twitchell, this roadhouse was oper-
ated until regular air service was established to the Takotna area
around 1929.
The Yankee Creek Roadhouse Site was only observed from the air so an
on-the-ground examination is required before specific recommendations
can be made. Superficial observation suggests that the structure is in
fairly good condition and may benefit from stabilization efforts.
OPH-017
Yankee Creek Shelter Cabin
A standing frame building with sheet-metal roof was sighted at the mouth
of Yankee Creek, approximately 1/4 mile west of Yankee Creek Roadhouse.
It was identified by Bob Magnuson (pers. corn.), a local pilot who grew
up in Ophir and now lives in McGrath, as the Yankee Creek shelter cabin
which was constructed by the ARC in the 1920's.
The ARC Annual Report
for 1926 ( p . 8 3 ) notes that a barn was built and repairs were made to the
shelter cabin at Yankee Creek during the 1925-26 season. Remains of the
barn were not seen during aerial reconnaissance. Timothy Twitchell,
however, states that the shelter cabin noted was built by the ARC around
1947 to accommodate ARC workers stationed there.
The Yankee Creek Shelter Cabin seems to be in good condition, but, as
noted
above,
this site
was
only observed from the air.
An on-the-ground
examination is required before specific recommendations can be made.
Surface examination and evaluation may also help determine when the
existing structure was built.
Greenberg Cabins
Two cabins a r e shown i n t h e 1954 e d i t i o n of t h e USGS quad sheet, Ophir
(A-1), p a s t Ganes Creek on t h e Ophir-Takotna road and approximately 5
m i l e s northwest of Yankee Creek.
A e r i a l reconnaissance a t t h i s l o c a t i o n
f a i l e d t o l o c a t e any s t r u c t u r a l remains.
According t o Bob Magnuson
( p e r s . comm.) t h e two o l d cabins belonged t o A 1 Greenberg and were
removed some time ago.
The s i t e where t h e y had been was used as a
gravel p i t .
Ganes Creek
The l o c a l i t y of Ganes Creek was s e t t l e d soon a f t e r t h e first gold s t r i k e
i n t h e Kuskokwim region was made i n 1906 on Ganes Creek near the headwaters of t h e I n n o k ~River.
Although a e r i a l reconnaissance r e v e a l e d the
foundations of a number of old s t r u c t u r e s t h e r e ( P l a t e C-91), t h e s i t e
was n o t examined because of ongoing mining a c t i v i t i e s i n the immediate
area.
No s p e c i f i c recommendations can be made f o r s t a b i l i z a t i o n , p r o t e c t i o n o r
excavation a t Ganes Creek u n t i l an on-the-ground examination and evalua t i o n is made.
Ophir
Ophir s i t s on a h a l f - m i l e long t r a c t of l a n d a d j a c e n t t o t h e Innoko
River above t h e mouth of Ophir Creek.
(Photo 10).
Ophir was a mining
town of c o n s i d e r a b l e s i g n i f i c a n c e a f t e r t h e 1908 g o l d strike on Ophir
Creek.
I t s s t r a t e g i c l o c a t i o n i n t h e midst of t h e I m o k o D i s t r i c t and
i t s l o c a t i o n on t h e w i n t e r t r a i l t o t h e I d i t a r o d D i s t r i c t e s t a b l i s h e d it
as an important hub f o r commerce and communication.
Roadhouses were
operated i n Ophir during t h e 1920's by S i d Paulson and P e a r l Jones
(Timothy T w i t c h e l l , p e r s . corn.).
Photo 11 shows t h e main s t r e e t of
Ophir, sometimes r e f e r r e d t o a s t h e " t r a p l i n e " , a s i t appeared about
Ophir has been v i r t u a l l y abandoned s i n c e 1957, when the p o s t o f f i c e
closed f o r l a c k of p a t r o n s (Balcom 1965:26).
Numerous b u i l d i n g s
have
a p p a r e n t l y been t o r n down f o r b u i l d i n g m a t e r i a l s t o be used i n o t h e r
areas.
I n May 1978, a b o n f i r e a t an FAA p i c n i c held a t Ophir went o u t
of c o n t r o l , burning t h e n o r t h e r n s e c t i o n of town by t h e r i v e r ( P l a t e
C-91).
I t i s n o t known e x a c t l y how many of t h e town's b u i l d i n g s were
a f f e c t e d by t h e fire, b u t comparison of photographs taken i n 1976 and
1978 i n d i c a t e s t h a t s e v e r a l s t a n d i n g b u i l d i n g s burned t o t h e ground.
An on-the-ground
survey and e v a l u a t i o n of t h e remains a t Ophir a r e
required before s p e c i f i c recommendations can be made.
S p e c i a l consid-
e r a t i o n should be given t o e v a l u a t i o n of t h e e f f e c t s o f the 1978 f i r e on
t h i s s i t e , t o h e l p determine what measures can be t a k e n t o avoid f u t u r e
f i r e damage t o t h i s and o t h e r s i t e s .
McCarthy's "Roadhouse"
A small cabin is said to have existed on the north side of the Innoko
River opposite the mouth of Beaver Creek some 5 miles west of Ophir
(Timothy Twitchell, pers. comm.).
Known as McCarthy's Roadhouse, it was
actually not a roadhouse but a private dwelling where travelers sometimes took shelter when approaching Ophir from Iditarod or Tolstoi
(Timothy Twitchell, personal communication).
It was not seen during
reconnaissance.
De1 Thom~son'sBeaver Creek Cabin
A cabin is shown on the 1956 edition of USGS topographic map of Ophir
(1:63,360 scale), approximately one mile northwest of the mouth of
Beaver Creek. This cabin reportedly belonged years ago to Del Thompson,
a long-time resident of the area (Warren Magnuson, pers. comm.).
No
sign of this cabin was found during reconnaissance.
Boxcar Roadhouse
Boxcar Roadhouse was reported to be located on the Innoko River approximately 8 miles northwest of Ophir (Polk's Gazetteer, 1922:109).
Remains of two log structures were found at a site which corresponds to
this location. A small but prominent grassy clearing on the old trail
marks the site from the air.
The s i t e was examined on t h e ground i n 1976.
The l a r g e r c a b i n appears
t o have been b u i l t i n two s t a g e s of c o n s t r u c t i o n , w i t h a 14-foot s q u a r e
room on t h e e a s t and an a d j o i n i n g 18-by 21-foot room added l a t e r on t h e
w e s t s i d e . (Figure 12).
The w a l l l o g s of t h e west p a r t of t h e s t r u c t u r e
a r e fairly w e l l preserved.
The r o o f s on both p a r t s of t h e s t r u c t u r e
a p p e a r t o have been gone f o r some time.
The modified s a d d l e notch used
was s k i l l f u l l y executed on c a r e f u l l y s e l e c t e d logs.
The e a s t p o r t i o n of
t h i s s t r u c t u r e i s l a r g e l y obscured by t r e e s t h a t have grown up s i n c e t h e
place was abandoned, and it i s c o n s i d e r a b l y l e s s we11 preserved t h a n t h e
west p a r t .
Few w a l l l o g s remain s t a n d i n g , and t h e roof l o g s a r e b a r e l y
e v i d e n t i n t h e v e g e t a t i o n mat covering t h e f l o o r a r e a .
D e t a i l s of t h e
roof s t r u c t u r e could n o t be a s c e r t a i n e d .
The s m a l l l o g b u i l d i n g 25 f e e t t o t h e n o r t h i s i n a s t a t e of d e t e r i o r a t i o n s i m i l a r t o t h a t of t h e e a s t p a r t of t h e l a r g e r cabin.
I t i s pos-
s i b l e t h a t t h i s cabin and t h e s m a l l e r chamber of t h e o t h e r c a b i n were
b u i l t f i r s t and t h e l a r g e r room added a t some l a t e r d a t e .
The s t r u c t u r a l remains a t t h e Boxcar Roadhouse s i t e should be preserved
as they stand.
F u r t h e r r e s e a r c h i n t o a r c h i v a l and l o c a l s o u r c e s of
i n f o r m a t i o n may provide f u r t h e r d e t a i l s on t h e s i t e .
There i s also
p o t e n t i a l f o r a r c h e o l o g i c a l i n v e s t i g a t i o n of t h e s i t e through excavation
and r e c o r d a t i o n of m a t e r i a l remains.
Oregon City
According to Joe Degnan (pers. comm.), who first came to the McGrath
area in 1935, Del Thompson (nicknamed "The Oregon Kid") carried mail
over the trail at one time and constructed a place near the mouth of
American Creek which he called "Oregon City."
The area was examined for
remains of structures, but none were found.
OPH-013
Del Thompson's Mount Hurst Cabin
The remains of a log cabin and outbuilding that reportedly once belonged
to Del Thompson (Warren Magnuson, pers. comm.), were seen northeast of
Mount Hurst.
The buildings are located on an alluvial fan which extends
from a side drainage north of Hurst Creek.
The roof is gone from the
cabin, although some structural members are still visible.
The walls
appear to be standing. The log walls of a smaller structure are visible
approximately 30 feet west of the cabin.
Del Thompson's Mount Hurst Cabin was not examined on the ground, so
specific recommendations must await further study.
In the meantime, the
site should be protected from disturbance until it can be fully evaluated.
Mount Hurst Summit Roadhouse
OPH-007
A site was found on Hurst Creek approximately 2 miles northwest of the
site of Del Thompson's cabin. It is marked by a distinct grassy clearing in a mixed forest. Foundation outlines of at least two and possibly
three structures can be seen in the clearing.
The outlines of the square structure indicate a relatively large build-
ing, larger than the average trapper's cabin. The large prominent
clearing also suggests the site was used for something more than a
shelter cabin. The distance of the site from Ophir by this route as
measured on USGS topographic maps is approximately 20 miles.
By these
criteria, the site appears to represent Sunmrit Roadhouse.
The Mount Hurst Summit Roadhouse Site was not examined on the ground.
Little in the way of structural remains appear to be present, but the
site may yield useful information through archeological excavation.
A
more thorough documentation of the site's history might be gleaned from
archival and local information sources,
Del Thom~son'sBoob Creek Cabin
A cabin located on the 1975 edition of the USGS topographic map of Ophir
quadrangle is shown on Boob Creek approximately 7 miles north of the
Summit Roadhouse site and 2.5 miles southeast of Tolstoi.
This site
consists of a standing cabin apparently in good condition. It is in an
open spruce woodland beside Boob Creek. There is a collapsed cache next
to the cabin. Water gates and logs, probably used for placer mining
activities, are piled beside the creek. Two large iron boilers are
l y i n g on t h e t u n d r a a s h o r t d i s t a n c e from the c r e e k , each a t a d i s t a n c e
of s e v e r a l hundred feet from t h e c a b i n i n o p p o s i t e d i r e c t i o n s .
Remnants
of a t r a i l can be seen between Boob Creek and T o l s t o i .
J o e Degnan and Bob Magnuson ( p e r s . comm.) b o t h i d e n t i f y t h e s e s t r u c t u r e s
a s having belonged t o Del Thompson when he o p e r a t e d a p l a c e r mine on
Boob Creek i n t h e 1 9 3 0 ' s .
A mining claim was r e g i s t e r e d a t t h i s l o c a -
tion i n 1927 (BLM , D i s t r i c t Minerals Resource I n v e n t o r y ; unpublished
folio).
D e l Thompson's Boob Creek Cabin was observed from t h e a i r and a p p e a r s t o
be i n f a i r l y good c o n d i t i o n .
The s i t e needs t o be examined on t h e
ground t o evaluate i t s c o n d i t i o n and s i g n i f i c a n c e .
Tolstoi
T o l s t o i s i t s on t h e e a s t bank o f T o l s t o i Creek a t its j u n c t i o n w i t h
Mastodon Creek.
I t was e s t a b l i s h e d around 1916 a s a b o a t l a n d i n g and
supply camp f o r t h e p l a c e r a c t i v i t i e s on Mastodon Creek (Orth 1967:974).
I t was a l s o a p p a r e n t l y on t h e t r a i l from Dishkaket, t h e l i m i t o f n a v i gation f o r large riverboats.
There was a roadhouse a t T o l s t o i a t t h i s
time known a s Olsons Roadhouse ( O r t h 1971:974).
T o l s t o i has been abandoned f o r many y e a r s .
Today the s i t e i n c l u d e s t h e
remains of s e v e r a l s t r u c t u r e s , v a r y i n g from mere f o u n d a t i o n outlines t o
a sod-roofed c a b i n i n f a i r l y good c o n d i t i o n .
The r u i n s of a large
structure immediately adjacent to the river appear to be the remains of
a warehouse at the boat landing. According to Bob Magnuson (pers.
corn.) the standing sod-roofed log cabin approximately 200 yards south
of the old town was constructed from building materials salvaged from
the old structures in Tolstoi. A new log cache was recently built
alongside the cabin with logs sawn from walls of the old cabins. The
location of Olsons Roadhouse in Tolstoi was not determined.
Tolstoi was only observed from the air. An on-the-ground survey is
required to record and evaluate existing structures there.
This site
needs immediate attention to prevent further destruction of historic
resources.
Dishkakat
OPH-004
The site of the settlement of Dishkakat was found on the south bank of
the Innoko River between the river and an oxbow lake. Dishkakat had
been an Ingalik Indian settlement long before the first rush of prospectors to the area in 1907 to 1915 (Orth 1971:274).
Some variations on
the name of the town include Deekakat, Dischkatat, Dishkaket, and Innoko
(Orth, 1971:274).
Several structures, in varying states of disrepair, are still extant in
Dishkakat. Time did not allow a thorough examination of the site, but a
brief reconnaissance indicated that most of the existing structures are
among the trees at the edge of a clearing near the river.
Dishkakat needs to be carefully examined and evaluated for its historical significance. Archival and local sources of information should be
consulted, and an intensive on-the-ground survey done. Existing structures of historic significance should be stabilized or restored and
possible archeological deposits preserved or excavated.
Slough Roadhouse
i
A roadhouse called Slough Roadhouse is said to have been located on a
slough near where the trail crosses Khotol River 15 miles southeast of
Kaltag (Edgar Kallands, pers. comm.).
No sign of it could be seen from
the air probably due to the canopy of vegetation along the watercourse.
THE IDITAROD LOOP
The Iditarod Loop extends southwest from Takotna along Fourth of July
Creek and Bonanza Creek, through Flat and Iditarod, then northeast back
to Ophir where it rejoins the main trail/
(Map 4).
This route was
established soon after the discovery of gold in the area around Iditarod.
The loop follows streambeds for the most part, winding through valleys
and crossing low passes through the Kuskokwim Mountains. Between Flat
and Iditarod the trail was supplemented as early as 1911-12 by a wagon
*
road. One mile of the 8-mile wagon road was constructed and maintained
by p r i v a t e i n d i v i d u a l s , while t h e Alaska Road Commission was r e s p o n s i b l e
f o r t h e r e s t (ARC Annual Report, 1912:ZO).
A wagon road a l s o extended
up t o t h e head of F l a t Creek f o r t r a n s p o r t a t i o n of heavy dredge machi n e r y (Eakin 1912:301).
The towns of F l a t and I d i t a r o d were a l s o connected by a tramway which i s
s t i l l e a s i l y v i s i b l e from t h e a i r .
The tramway t r a v e r s e s t h e low h i l l s
between t h e two towns i n a n e a r l y s t r a i g h t l i n e .
I t was i n use by
1911-12 (ARC Annual Report, 1912;20), and o p e r a t e d d u r i n g t h e summer
months f o r c a r r y i n g f r e i g h t t o F l a t from t h e r i v e r terminus a t I d i t a r o d
(Brooks, 1914:255).
Many o t h e r t r a i l s a r e v i s i b l e between t h e two
towns, i n d i c a t i n g t h a t v a r i o u s a l t e r n a t i v e r o u t e s were used over t h e
years.
From I d i t a r o d t h e t r a i l extends northward along t h e I d i t a r o d River f o r
approximately 20 miles t o Shermeier's Halfway Roadhouse s i t e .
Traces of
t h e o l d t r a i l t h a t a r e v i s i b l e between I d i t a r o d and Shermeier's f o l l o w
t h e r i v e r much c l o s e r t h a n t h e more v i s i b l e l a t e r t r a i l which keeps t o
h i g h e r ground a s much a s 2 miles eastward.
The h i g h e r t r a i l probably
d a t e s from t h e i n t r o d u c t i o n of t r a c k e d machinery i n t o t h e a r e a , s i n c e i t
keeps t o h i g h e r , more s o l i d ground, r a t h e r t h a n c r o s s i n g t h e frozen
r i v e r i c e and low wetlands.
A t Shermeier's Halfway Roadhouse t h e t r a i l f o r k s .
One r o u t e , t h e Dik-
eman Cutoff, heads almost due n o r t h through Dikeman and on t o Diskakat
where it r e j o i n s t h e main t r a i l .
This wa's p a r t of t h e w i n t e r s l e d road
between Dikeman and I d i t a r o d i n 1923, though by t h a t time the t r a i l between Dikeman and Dishkakat was l i t t l e used (ARC, 1923:85).
As the
t r a i l extends n o r t h from Dikeman it crosses l a k e s and swampy areas t h a t
obscured much of t h e t r a i l even d u r i n g t h e h e i g h t of i t s activitiy.
F a i n t remnants of t h e t r a i l a r e r e p o r t e d l y s t i l l v i s i b l e a l o n g t h e
r o u t e , though time d i d n o t allow f o r an examination of t h e t r i a l between
S h e r m e i e r f s Halfway Roadhouse and Dishkakat.
The second r o u t e , known a s Hunter T r a i l , heads n o r t h e a s t from Sherm e i e r ' s t o r e j o i n t h e main t r a i l j u s t west of Ophir.
T h i s t r a i l i s most
e v i d e n t where i s c r o s s e s t h e uplands e a s t of t h e Dishna R i v e r .
The
Hunter T r a i l and known s i t e s along i t s l e n g t h have been i n c l u d e d here a s
p a r t of t h e I d i t a r o d Loop.
Big Creek Roadhouse
Big Creek Roadhouse s i t e l i e s on t h e west s i d e of t h e Takotna R i v e r just
below t h e mouth of F o u r t h of J u l y Creek a t t h e confluence of Big Creek.
I t i s shown on t h e 1916 ARC map of Alaska and on maps i n t h e RandMcNally Guide t o Alaska and Yukon (1922:40).
I t was e s t a b l i s h e d by t h e
Kuskokwim Commercial Company of J o a q u i n , T w i t c h e l l & Fowler a s a d i s p e r s a l p o i n t f o r s u p p l i e s s e n t up t h e Kuskokwim and Takotna Rivers t o
t h e Innoko Gold Mining D i s t r i c t i n 1908 (Maddren, 1911:34).
s i s t e d o f a l o g s t o r e and roadhouse.
I t con-
The name "Joaquin" was a l s o emp-
loyed for t h e Big Creek e s t a b l i s h m e n t (Timothy T w i t c h e l l , p e r s . comrn.).
All that remained of the structures when the site was inspected in 1976
were outlines in the grassy clearing. Apparently the last standing
structures at the site burned down in 1974 (Pete Shepherd, pers. corn.).
Historic accounts of the Iditarod area refer to "Joaquin" as an early
embarkation point for supplies to Moore City, just over the hill to the
west.
It is not entirely clear, however, if the name was being applied
to Big Creek Roadhouse, Joaquin Mountain across the river, or the nearby
Indian village for which no name has been recorded.
Although no structural remains are extant at the Big Creek Roadhouse
Site, there may be subsurface remains of archeological value.
Since
this site is gradually being eroded away by the river it should receive
archeological testing sometime in the near future to determine its
potential. Further research of archival and local information sources
may help clarify the part this site played in the region's history.
Indian Village Site
IDT-017
Faint outlines of three or more structures were observed in the clearing
on the west side of Takotna River near the mouth of Fourth of Jvly
Creek. This was identified as an abandoned Indian village site on the
1951 USGS topographic map of Iditarod.
The ARC mentioned the existence of this village on the winter trail from
Takotna to Flat in its 1924 Annual Report (1924:125).
Alaska Sportsman
(January 1966:28) listed it as a point on the winter mail trail running
from Takotna to Flat in 1914.
Although there are no standing structures at this site it probably
contains subsurface archeological deposits. Archeological testing is
needed to fully evaluate the potential of this site. Further research
in archival and ethno-historic sources may also provide further information about it.
m
Lincoln Creek Roadhouse Site
IDT-011
The remains of a log building were seen from the air on the south side
of Fourth of July Creek opposite the mouth of Lincoln Creek. A few wall
logs are in place but the structure is in an advanced state of deterioration.
This site is identified on the 1916 ARC map and by Maddren (1910, Pl.I),
as Lincoln Creek Roadhouse. Alaska Yukon Magazine (July 1911:55) refered to a roadhouse at this location as Sanford's Roadhouse in its
report on Goodwin's survey for the ARC on the winter trail between Flat
and Takotna. Being so far from the visible trail, this site location
appears to suggest that early traffic may have been on the frozen surface of Fourth o f July Creek.
The remains at the Lincoln Creek Roadhouse site should be stabilized and
the surrounding property protected from surface disturbing activities
until the site can be tested for archeological values.
This site is on
land patented to the State of Alaska.
Moore Creek
Several structures were noted in the vicinity of Goore Creek. A cabin
and shed with metal roofs are located on the east side of Willow Creek
about a mile northeast o f the present Moore Creek mining activity.
These were identified by Tony Gularte, who grew up in Iditarod and Flat,
as the mess hall and bunkhouse for the mining operation.
In the mining
area itself are two more structures with metal roofs.
The ARC map of 1916 shows Moore Creek Roadhouse at this location. Moore
Creek Inn is also mentioned as one of Goodwin's stops when his party
surveyed the winter trail in 1910-11 (Alaska Yukon Magazine XI, 55).
It
is possible that one of the remaining structures in this area is the
roadhouse, though all the buildings noted appear to be too we11 preserved to be of much age. No examination was made on the ground, where
an active mining operation is still maintained.
The site of Moore Creek needs to be examined on the ground to determine
its present condition. Further documentation from archival and local
sources is needed to determine the sites historical significance, and
archeological testing is required to evaluate the sites potential to
contribute significant information. The site is on State-owned land.
Summit Roadhouse
IDT-021
The remains of a structure are located on the winter trail between Flat
and Takotna just over the summit on a tributary of Bonanza Creek.
Although the structure is almost completely collapsed, the metal roof is
relatively intact. The building was identified as Summit Roadhouse by
Tony Gularte (pers. comrn.), who camped in it in 1938 when it was still
intact and in good condition.
Summit Roadhouse was mentioned as an important stop on Goodwin's 1910-11
survey of the winter trail between Flat and Takotna (Alaska Yukon Magazine XI:55).
In 1931 Summit Roadhouse was used by one ARC crew as a
shelter cabin. The ARC Annual Report that year noted that a new roof
was installed on Summit Roadhouse (1931:56).
Several stacks of rotting cordwood were seen along Bonanza Creek in the
vicinity of Montana and Little Montana Creeks about 3 miles below the
Summit Roadhouse site. According to Tony Gularte, the wood was cut and
stacked back in the 1930's by John Snyder, a local woodsman.
Snyder cut
wood along Bonanza Creek to sell to the miners for their placer operations between 1913 and the 1930's.
The Summit Roadhouse site needs to be examined on the ground to evaluate
its potential significance. It is on State-owned land.
.
Halfway Cabin
This log cabin is located on the south side of Bonanza Creek approximately 8 miles southwest of Summit Roadhouse. It was briefly examined
on the ground in 1976, before the land
was
patented to the State.
The small grassy clearing around the cabin also contains the rotting
foundation logs of an older structure about 30 feet southeast of the
standing cabin. The existing cabin has a hand-carved sign posted above
the door with the name "Halfway Cabin." The following inscription is
inside the cabin above the doorway:
"Constructed by and for Moose Creek
Charles Salmi
Lars Indegaard
Contractors
March, 193gtt
This dates the construction of the building, and other dates left on the
cabin walls by visitors follow in time.
Salmi, Hunter, Stuver, Gularte, Rosander
Aline Emory Toner
Lillian Uotilla
-
March 31, 1940
- Jan. 16, 1942
John C. Anderson (undated)
- Dec.
22, 1939
The 15-by 1 7 - f o o t cabin i s w e l l p r e s e r v e d b u t i n need of r e p a i r s .
(Photo 1 2 ) . The s p l i t l o g roof i s r o t t i n g , and t h e door i s l o o s e .
The
upper w a l l l o g s a r e f a i r l y sound, and t h e p l a n k f l o o r i n g i s i n f a i r
condition.
The handmade t a b l e and c h a i r l o c a t e d i n s i d e t h e c a b i n a r e
good examples of bush type f u r n i t u r e and a r e e x c e l l e n t l y p r e s e r v e d .
bunk has many i n i t i a l s carved i n t h e s i d e p o l e s .
The
Cooking u t e n s i l s and
o t h e r m a t e r i a l s a r k strewn about the i n s i d e of t h e c a b i n .
Rusty s p r i n g
t r a p s hanging o u t s i d e on t h e f r o n t of t h e c a b i n s u g g e s t t h a t a t r a p p e r
s t a y e d i n i t some y e a r s ago.
Tony G u l a r t e , whose name appears on t h e c a b i n w a l l , s t a t e s t h a t t h e
Halfway Cabin was b u i l t a s a s t o p p i n g p l a c e f o r t r a v e l e r s between Moore
Creek and t h e F l a t a r e a d u r i n g t h e l a t e 1 9 3 0 ' s and e a r l y 1 9 4 0 ' s .
After
a i r s e r v i c e became g e n e r a l l y a v a i l a b l e t o t h i s l o c a l e , t h e t r a i l and
c a b i n were l i t t l e used e x c e p t by a r e a t r a p p e r s .
Halfway Cabin i s i n v e r y good c o n d i t i o n , and could be p r e s e r v e d w i t h
o n l y minor r e p a i r s .
S i n c e t h e s i t e i s on S t a t e l a n d , any s t a b i l i z a t i o n
o r r e s t o r a t i o n e f f o r t s would be t h e r e s p o n s i b i l i t y o f t h e S t a t e o f
Alaska.
Ruby Creek Roadhouse
IDT-022
Remains o f two l o g s t r u c t u r e s a r e l o c a t e d i n a l a r g e g r a s s y c l e a r i n g
j u s t below t h e mouth of Ruby Creek (Figure B).Only t h e w a l l foundations
are in place. A few rotting logs lie in disarray about the smaller
structure. The investigators cut out shrubs and small trees that had
grown up on and within the foundations. A pile of bottles and tin cans
was found under the grass between the two buildings. The dual tracks of
the present winter trail are 150 feet east of the site.
The smaller structure measured 16 by 18 feet at the foundations. The
larger structure, measuring 18 by 34 feet, probably
was
the roadhouse.
Ruby Creek Roadhouse is mentioned by the Goodwin party who surveyed the
Iditarod loop of the Iditarod Trail in 1910-11 (Alaska Yukon Magazine
XI, 1911:55).
The ARC map of 1916 and Rand-McNally (1922:40) both
identify the roadhouse at this location as Ruby Roadhouse.
There is little in the way of structural remains left at the Ruby Creek
Roadhouse site. It should receive archeological testing to determine
the potential of the historic remains there. Further research into
archival and local information sources may provide further details about
the historic use of the site.
Frame Cabin on Bonanza Creek
A relatively recent frame cabin is located on Bonanza Creek approxi-
mately 3 miles southwest of Ruby Creek Roadhouse site near the fork in
the trail. This site does not correspond with any known historic site
location, but the cabin does closely resemble the one on the Hunter
Trail that was apparently built by the Road Commission.
Flat
The town of F l a t was observed d u r i n g a e r i a l r e c o n n a i s s a n c e .
Time did
n o t a l l o w d e t a i l e d examination of t h e e x i s t i n g b u i l d i n g s however.
F l a t , a l s o known a s F l a t Camp, F l a t C i t y , and F l a t Creek, i s l o c a t e d on
O t t e r Creek 8 m i l e s s o u t h e a s t of I d i t a r o d -
The mining camp became
a c t i v e i n 1910, grew i n t o a town by 1912 and by 1917 surpassed I d i t a r o d
a s t h e r e g i o n a l p o p u l a t i o n c e n t e r ( P o l k ' s G a z e t t e e r 1917-18:323).
Photo
13 shows Flat a s it appeared d u r i n g i t s heyday.
A number of h o t e l s and roadhouses were operated i n F l a t o v e r t h e y e a r s .
M r . and Mrs. George Mutchler r a n a h o t e l t h e r e i n 1917 (Cadwallader,
n.d.:lO).
I n 1923, P o l k ' s G a z e t t e e r (1923:298) l i s t e d t h r e e h o t e l s and
t h e i r owners:
-
Grand H o t e l
Gunning; and Snyder House
-
Mrs. George Mutchler; Flat C i t y H o t e l - Mrs.
Maud E a r l .
According t o Fred G u l a r t e , who l i v e d i n F l a t and I d i t a r o d from 1910
u n t i l t h e e a r l y 1 9 2 0 ' s , t h e r e were a l s o a number of "flop houses'' where
a bed could be r e n t e d f o r a s t a t e d number of hours, w i t h meals o b t a i n e d
elsewhere.
F l a t ' s l a s t roadhouse p r o p r i e t o r was Henry Durant (Timothy Twitchell,
pers. corn.).
The town was abandoned i n 1942 when t h e F e d e r a l Gov-
ernment s h u t down a l l gold mining a t the beginning of World War I1
(Lyman 1972).
There are currently active mining claims in the Flat area, and a number
'of residents live there during the summer. The concern of these individuals has been responsible for preservation of much of the town as it
stands today.
Because a large number of structures of various ages are still standing
in Flat, an extensive program of recordation is required to document the
existing situation. Archival sources, current and former residents
could supply a great deal of information about the site. Archeological
investigations may be necessary to evaluate subsurface features. Until
such an extensive study can be made to determine stabilization and
restoration needs, the site should be protected from disturbance.
Iditarod
IDT-014
The historic town of Iditarod is on an old channel of the Iditarod River
seven miles northwest of Flat. A large number of buildings still stand.
Time only allowed for a superficial examination of the site.
Several of the structures on the east side of the river were examined in
1976. The buildings are in various states of disrepair, although most
are still fairly sound. All the buildings examined are of frame construction, and most have metal roofs. One building on the west side of the
river is occupied and another building adjacent to it is used for storage.
Many items o f h i s t o r i c v a l u e a r e s t i l l contained i n t h e b u i l d i n g s and
s c a t t e r e d around t h e town o u t s i d e t h e b u i l d i n g s .
t r a c t o r i s s i t t i n g w i t h i n t h e town s i t e .
An old steam-driven
A s t e e l and c o n c r e t e bank
v a u l t s t i l l c o n t a i n s many r e c o r d s and r e c e i p t s .
The cemetery, w i t h
markers and f e n c e s i n v a r i o u s s t a t e s of d i s r e p a i r , i s l o c a t e d n o r t h of
town.
O u t l i n e s of o l d f o u n d a t i o n s and s i m i l a r f e a t u r e s can be s e e n on
low-level a e r i a l p'hotos of t h e town.
I d i t a r o d became t h e s u p p l y and commercial c e n t e r of the I d i t a r o d Gold
D i s t r i c t s h o r t l y a f t e r t h e town was founded i n June 1910 (Orth 1967:-
443).
By J u l y , 1910 a t l e a s t f o u r roadhouses were i n b u s i n e s s :
Idi-
t a r o d Lodging House, Adolph Rippa, manager; McDonald's Roadhouse; Rivers i d e Hotel, A. F. Morgan, p r o p r i e t o r ; and B e a t t i e House, George Adams,
owner ( I d i t a r o d Pioneer J u l y 1 0 , 1910:4 and J u l y 17, 1 9 1 0 : l ) .
As many
a s 2,000 t o 3,000 people came t o I d i t a r o d i n t h a t f i r s t year (Morrell
1968: 407).
The p o p u l a t i o n of I d i t a r o d diminished t o 125 i n h a b i t a n t s by 1917 ( P o l k ' s
Gazateer 1917-18:322).
P o l k ' s Gazateer (1917-18:1044-45)
roadhouses s t i l l a c t i v e i n I d i t a r o d i n 1917:
lists three
Grand H o t e l , Mrs. George
Mutchler, owner; B e a t t i e House, George Adams, p r o p r i e t o r ; and McDonald's
H o t e l , Manuel G u l a r t e .
Photo 14 shows I d i t a r o d ' s appearance d u r i n g t h i s
I
time.
B e a t t i e House, which was o p e r a t e d by George Adams u n t i l 1920, was
t h e l a s t f u n c t i o n i n g roadhouse i n t h e community (Tony G u l a r t e , p e r s .
corn.).
By 1921, I d i t a r o d had become a ghost town.
Most of the people who r e -
mained i n t h e a r e a moved t o F l a t t o be c l o s e r t o t h e p l a c e r mining
operations.
The I d i t a r o d tramway, a wagon road, and a w i n t e r s l e d road
connected t h e two towns by 1921 (Rivers 1975:211), f a c i l i t a t i n g t h e
t r a n s p o r t of s u p p l i e s from t h e r i v e r t e r m i n u s a t I d i t a r o d .
I d i t a r o d i s a f i n e example of an Alaskan mining town, and could b e
e a s i l y p r e s e r v e d a s an h i s t o r i c s i t e .
Some of t h e b u i l d i n g s a r e i n need
of minor r e p a i r and o t h e r s could be s t a b i l i z e d a s r u i n s .
The l a r g e
v a r i e t y of h i s t o r i c a r t i f a c t s a t t h e s i t e should b e p r e s e r v e d .
In spite
of t h e r e l a t i v e l y remote l o c a t i o n of t h e town, b o t t l e c o l l e c t o r s and
scavengers have a l r e a d y begun t o remove h i s t o r i c a r t i f a c t s and a r e
causing damage t o some of t h e s t r u c t u r e s .
S i n c e t h e t o w n s i t e of I d i -
t a r o d h a s been t e n t a t i v e l y approved f o r t r a n s f e r t o t h e S t a t e , t h e S t a t e
of Alaska has p r i m a r y r e s p o n s i b l i t y f o r any f u r t h e r work a t t h e s i t e ,
and any e f f o r t t h e y make should be f u l l y s u p p o r t e d .
I d i t a r o d would
undoubtedly q u a l i f y f o r t h e N a t i o n a l R e g i s t e r of H i s t o r i c P l a c e s .
Shermeier's Halfway Roadhouse
IDT-010
S h e r m e i e r ' s Halfway Roadhouse s i t e was found on t h e west bank of t h e
I d i t a r o d R i v e r , a p p r o x i m a t e l y 20 m i l e s n o r t h of I d i t a r o d .
The s i t e l i e s
i n a g r a s s y c l e a r i n g , about 150 by 200 f e e t , t h a t i s p a r t i a l l y regrown
with young b i r c h t r e e s .
Remains of four structures were found:
the roadhouse, dogbarn, an un-
identifiable outbuilding, and a below-ground cold storage cache (Figure
14).
The organic remains of the roadhouse and outbuilding have thor-
oughly deteriorated, releasing nutrients to the overgrowing vegetation.
This is evident by the small grove of trees growing along and inside of
the foundations, showing the general outline of the structures.
I
The remains of the roadhouse foundation logs were uncovered and measurements taken.
Although no structural evidence remains to delineate the
functional areas of the roadhouse, the remnants of a cast-iron kitchen
range in the northeast corner of the house indicate that this area was
probably the kitchen. An opening to a cellar was found in the northeastern corner of the structure.
The cellar opening is 4.5 feet square on
the surface, and the cellar walls are partially collapsed. A large
barrel stove constructed from a 55-gallon fuel drum-is in the center of
the building.
Small pieces of old planking are scattered over the
ground surface within the foundations.
Investigators removed shrubs and small trees from the foundations of the
outbuilding northeast of the roadhouse ruins and measured the foundations.
Posts, foundations, and a few roof poles are all that remains of
this structure.
A small 36-inch deep subterranean structure was found 30 feet east of
the roadhouse.
The dirt walls are cribbed with poles 2 inches in dia-
meter laid over the 40-inch square excavation and partially covered with
poles cut in 42-inch lengths.
This may represent an icehouse mentioned
by Rivers (1975:213) in his article relating to Shermeier's Halfway
Roadhouse.
The dog barn is the best preserved structure on this site. Although the
pole roof and walls are collapsed, a considerable amount of detail
remains. The pole members are essentially in place on the ground and
are preserved well enough so that dependable measurements of the structure could be taken.
dog barn.
An interesting feature was noted adjacent to the
On two sides, northeast and southeast of the dog barn, there
are embankments which appeared to have been constructed of logs and sod.
These embankments are oriented parallel to the dog barn at a height of
18 to 24 inches, and may have served as windbreaks.
A number of articles are strewn in the grass outside the structures. An
old capper wash boiler was found just west of the roadhouse ruins.
Other items--rusty cans, a few glass bottles, and pieces of wood, both
hewn logs and boards--were found lying at random in the clearing.
In
the birch thicket west of the clearing there is another 55-gallon fuel
drum with a door cut out to make a heating stove similar to the one in
the roadhouse ruins.
Shermeier's Halfway Roadhouse is approximately halfway between Iditarod
and Dikeman.
It is known to have been in existence in October 1910,
when it was known as Murray's Halfway Roadhouse (Rogers 1964:57).
Shermeier was proprietor by 1917 when Cadwallader passed through on his
way to Iditarod (Cadwallader, n.d.:9).
Rivers (1975:Zll-16) spells this
name Shermeyer when relating the notoriety gained at this raadhouse in
1922 when Shermeyer (or Shermeier) was involved in a $30,000 mail robbery.
According to Timothy Twitchell (pers. comm.), Julien DeSade was
the last proprietor at Halfway Roadhouse before it was abandoned as a
roadhouse in the late 1920's.
No major structures remain intact at Shermeier's Halfway Roadhouse site,
but the ruins and artifacts at the site should be maintained and preserved. Further study and archeological investigations into the site
may provide useful information.
lclhitacker Cabin
Remains of another building were noted in a small clearing on the opposite side of the river slightly upstream from Shermeier's Roadhouse
site. The structure is completely collapsed, and the roof is gone. Low
vegetation is growing within the foundations. Timothy Twitchell (pers.
comm.), identified this structure as the Whitacker cabin, dating from
approximately the same time as Shermeier's Halfway Roadhouse. The site
was not examined on the ground.
The site of Whitacker's Cabin needs to be examined on the ground to
.
determine its current condition. Further investigation into archival
and local sources of information may help to determine the historical
significance of the site.
"First Chance" Shelter Cabin
Ruins of a log c a b i n were found along Hunter Trail near the divide
between First Chance Creek and Dishna River.
It lies in a small clear-
ing in the upland spruce woodland just to the north of the drainage
channel of an intermittent stream. The structure is roughly square and
divided into two chambers of equal size. The building is partially
standing, but the superstructure has collapsed on the walls, and much of
the roof is gone.
This structure is shown on the map of the Kuskokwim Mining District,
accompanying the 1927 and 1929 ARC Annual Reports for 1927 (p.74) as
First Chance shelter c a b i n .
The 1929 ARC Annual Reports (p.121) gives
the location of First Chance cabin as 46 miles from Ophir on Hunter
Trail.
This description correlates well with the location cf the ob-
served cabin.
The First Chance shelter cabin was sometimes called Summit Roadhouse
because of its location near the summit between the Iditarod and Dishna
River drainages (Timothy Twitchell, pers. corn.).
There is no evidence
that it was ever a commercial enterprise, however, and was apparently
only used as a free sheher cabin.
The ruins at the First Chance shelter cabin site should be maintained in
their present condition, or restored.
The site is on State-owned land.
IDT-009
Fritz's Roadhouse
A frame cabin in excellent condition was sighted in a clearing in open
spruce woodland on the trail approximately 33 miles west of Ophir.
What
appears to be foundations in the clearing east of the cabin suggests
that another older structure once stood there next to the trail.
This was the only commercially operated roadhouse known t o have been
built on the Hunter Trail and was constructed by Fritz Walter (Timothy
Twitchell, pers. comm.; ARC Annual Report, 1931:56).
Fritz's Roadhouse
was constructed around 1916 when a mail route was established along the
Hunter Trail.
The roadhouse was purchased by Adam Twitchell shortly
before the end of World War I (Timothy Twitchell, pers. comm.) and was
operated by Jerry Wynne until it burned down on October 18, 1924 (Alaska
Sportsman, October 1966:42).
In 1931, a shelter cabin was rebuilt
on the site by the ARC (ARC Annual Report, 1931:56).
The standing cabin at Fritz's Roadhouse site appears to be in good
I
condition and probably only needs minor repairs to keep it intact. The
area showing evidence of old foundations should be tested for archeological deposits. This site is on State-owned land.
Reindeer Cabin on Hunter T r a i l
IDT-015
An o l d l o g c a b i n was found 5 miles northwest of Hunter T r a i l approximately 30 m i l e s southwest of Ophir.
The s i t e i s i n a s m a l l c l e a r i n g
n o r t h of t h e stream known l o c a l l y a s Roadhouse Creek a t t h e base of
Hunter Mountain ( P l a t e C-85).
Remains of two dog b a r n s , l a i d end t o
end, were v i s i b i l e t o t h e n o r t h e a s t o f t h e c a b i n ( P l a t e C-85).
The s i t e
a p p e a r s t o have o t h e r s t r u c t u r a l remnants, and t h e cabin i t s e l f i s i n
f a i r condition.
The c a b i n a p p e a r s t o have had a t l e a s t two rooms.
The sheet-metal roof
has p a r t i a l l y c o l l a p s e d on one s i d e and appears t o be l o o s e on t h e o t h e r
side.
The l o g w a l l s and roof supports a l l appear t o be s t a n d i n g , a l -
though i n a s t a t e o f d i s r e p a i r .
The dog barns a r e b a d l y d i l a p i d a t e d .
The r o o f s a r e gone, and t h e w a l l s p a r t i a l l y c o l l a p s e d .
The i n d i v i d u a l
s t a l l s a r e s t i l l e v i d e n t , however, even from a d i s t a n c e .
Timothy T w i t c h e l l ( p e r s . comm.) s t a t e s t h a t t h i s c a b i n was b u i l t i n t h e
l a t e 1920's by h i s f a t h e r , Adam T w i t c h e l l , t o s h e l t e r t h e herdsmen when
they brought t h e reindeer t o winter p a s t u r e along Roadhouse Creek.
The Reindeer Cabin on Hunter T r a i l should be r e s t o r e d f o r u s e a s a
s h e l t e r / r e c r e a t i o n cabin.
I t s a s s o c i a t i o n w i t h r e i n d e e r herding a c t i v -
i t y would make it a good c a n i d a t e f o r i n t e r p r e t a t i o n i f r e c r e a t i o n
a c t i v i t y i n t h a t a r e a i s e v e r g r e a t enough t o warrant such a n e f f o r t .
This s i t e i s on State-owned land.
Cabin Ruins on Hunter Trail
Remains of a log cabin are located in a small clearing approximately 11
miles northeast of the reindeer cabin. They are by the trail near the
summit between the reindeer cabin and Ophir. The cabin is square and
appears to have had a sod roof, though the roof has collapsed leaving
the ridge pole st311 in place. The walls are still standing, and logs
and other building materials can be seen strewn about the site.
Since these cabin ruins were not examined on the ground, and no references to the site were noted, the site needs further study before any
firm recommendations can be made.
Brown Creek Shelter Cabin
Another structure was noted near the trail aproximately 1.5 miles northeast of the unidentified cabin on a branch of Steel Creek. Apparently
an old cabin, the structure sits in a small clearing in the open spruce
woodland.
It is of log construction and square in shape. The roof is
gone, and the wall logs have almost completely collapsed.
A map of the Kuskokwim Mining District in the
ARC Annual Reports for
4
1929 and 1932 show an ARC shelter cabin in this approximate location.
The 1929 ARC Annual Report (p.21) identifies it as the Brown Creek ARC
shelter, 18 miles from Ophir on the Hunter Trail.
This corresponds to
the distance of this cabin from Ophir as measured on a USGS topographic
map of the area. It was also identified by Timothy Twitchell as the
Brown Creek shelter cabin (pers. corn.).
The cabin is shown with the U.
S. mail sled in the foreground on a mail run to Iditarod in a photo
taken in the 1920's during spring break-up by Timothy Twitchell (Photo
15).
The Brown Creek Shelter Cabin site was not examined on the ground.
The
ruins of the old cabin should be stabilized until further investigations
can be conducted at the site to determine its historical significance
and archeological potential.
SUMMER PACK TRAIL TAKOTNA TO FLAT
A summer pack trail just to the northwest and roughly parallel to the
winter trail extends 95 miles from Takotna to Flat by way of Ganes
Creek/
(Map 4).
This route, passing through high, dry country was more
easily traversed in summer than the river valleys. Traces of the trail,
where it passes along the ridges and 'side hills, are readily visible
from the air.
A green line of herbaceous shrubs growing in the catch
basin formed by the trail where it traverses a hillside, often indicates
its presence.
The shelter cabins described below were sighted or reported to have once
been on the summer pack trail.
Two of these have been identified as
cabins built by the ARC to provide shelter to travelers. Two other
cabins mentioned here were identified in ARC reports, but could not be
found d u r i n g a e r i a l reconnaissance.
Another c a b i n i s d e s c r i b e d though
it i s s i t u a t e d some d i s t a n c e from t h e v i s i b l e t r a c e s of t r a i l .
There i s
no record t h a t a commercial roadhouse was e v e r operated on t h e summer
pack t r a i l .
Lincoln Creek S h e l t e r Cabin
IDT-023
Lincoln Creek s h e l t e r cabin was s i g h t e d on t h e n o r t h side of the summer
pack t r a i l on t h e e a s t s i d e o f Lincoln Creek n e a r i t s headwaters.
It
l i e s approximately 2 m i l e s southwest of C r a t e r Mountain, near its base.
The c a b i n , s i t u a t e d i n an open woodland, has almost completely collapsed.
The s h e e t metal roof appears t o be i n t a c t , o v e r l y i n g the f l a t -
tened s t r u c t u r e beneath.
No s i g n of o t h e r s t r u c t u r e s were noted a t the
site.
Lincoln Creek s h e l t e r c a b i n i s f i r s t mentioned i n t h e ARC Annual Report
f o r 1922 ( ~ . 6 8 ) , which s t a t e s t h a t a c o n t r a c t was l e t t o b u i l d t h e c a b i n
t h a t year.
Timothy T w i t c h e l l s t a t e s t h a t h i s f a t h e r , Adam T w i t c h e l l ,
was t h e c o n t r a c t o r who b u i l t t h e Lincoln Creek cabin d u r i n g t h e summer
of 1922, along with Brush Creek and Fourth of J u l y c a b i n s .
I n i t s 1927
Annual Report, t h e ARC mentions a cabin on C r a t e r Mountain, presumably
t h e Lincoln Creek cabin s i n c e i t s proximity t o C r a t e r Mountain would
make t h i s a l o g i c a l a l t e r n a t i v e name.
The Lincoln Creek s h e l t e r c a b i n was n o t examined on t h e ground.
s i t e i s on s t a t e land.
The
Fourth of Julv Creek Shelter Cabin
The ARC Annual Report of 1922 ( p . 6 8 ) notes that a contract was also let
to build a shelter cabin and horse barn on Fourth of July Creek where
the.summer pack trail crosses it. The 1923 Annual Report of ARC reports
that this was accomplished during the summers of 1921 and 1922.
Timothy
Twitchell (pers. comm.) states that his father, Adam Twitchell, constructed them out of logs.
In its Annual Report for 1927, ARC lists
repairs made on the cabin. Aerial reconnaissance over the location
given for Fourth of July Creek Shelter Cabin did not reveal any sign of
a structure.
Duffy-Riley Cabin
A log cabin and out-building were seen on Fourth of July Creek, halfway
between the visible summer pack trail and Moore Creek. This was identified by Tony Gularte (pers. comm.)
as
the cabin belonging to Bill Duffy
and Felix Riley.
The cabin's condition appears to be good. The sheet-metal roof on the
cabin is intact.
The outbuilding roof has collapsed, although the log
walls are still partially in place.
The buildings are in.an open spruce
woodland, interspersed with low herbaceous tundra which shows no indication of clearing except perhaps to accommodate the structures.
The s i m i l a r c o n s t r u c t i o n of t h e s e b u i l d i n g s and t h e ARC Brush Creek
s h e l t e r c a b i n suggests t h a t t h i s could be the Fourth o f July s h e l t e r
c a b i n p u t up by ARC.
I t i s p o s s i b l e t h a t a t one time t h e t r a i l followed
a d i f f e r e n t r o u t e , c r o s s i n g Fourth of J u l y Creek where t h i s cabin s i t s
r a t h e r t h a n f u r t h e r upstream where t h e v i s i b l e t r a i l now c r o s s e s .
F u r t h e r r e s e a r c h i s needed t o determine i f t h e Duffy-Riley cabin was
indeed a t one time t h e Fourth o f J u l y Creek s h e l t e r c a b i n .
t u r e s should be s t a b i l i z e d t o p r e v e n t f u r t h e r d e t e r i o r a t i o n .
The s t r u c This s i t e
i s on s t a t e land.
Reindeer Cabin on Willow Creek
A l o g cabin was seen i n a small g r a s s y c l e a r i n g on t h e summer pack t r a i l
between Fourth of J u l y Creek and t h e ARC Brush Creek s h e l t e r cabin.
It
i s i n a mixed woodland of spruce and herbaceous t u n d r a , b e s i d e t h e
summer pack t r a i l , approximately 100 f e e t southwest of where t h e t r a i l
c r o s s e s Willow Creek.
p a r t i a l l y collapsed.
The cabin i s s t i l l s t a n d i n g a l t h o u g h t h e roof has
The w a l l s a r e i n t a c t b u t i n poor c o n d i t i o n .
Timothy T w i t c h e l l ( p e r s . c o r n . ) i d e n t i f i e d t h e cabin a s one h i s f a t h e r ,
Adam T w i t c h e l l , b u i l t i n 1923-24 a s t h e main summer q u a r t e r s f o r h i s
r e i n d e e r herdsmen when t h e y brought t h e herd t o forage on t h e summer
range between Fourth of J u l y Creek and Camelback Mountain.
The Reindeer Cabin on Willow Creek needs to be examined on the ground to
'
determine stabilization-protection needs.
The site is on State-owned
land.
Brush Creek Shelter Cabin
A log cabin and outbuilding are l o c a t e d on the west s i d e of the summer
pack trail, approximately 150 feet north of where the trail crosses
Guggenheim Creek. The buildings are in an open spruce woodland among
low to medium herbaceous shrubs. A small grassy area extends approximately 15 feet on one .side of the outbuilding. No other sign of a
man-made clearing is visible except for the clearing that accommodates
the structures themselves.
The cabin appears t o be about 1 1/2 times as long as it is wide, and
from the air appears to be in good condition. The sheet metal roof on
the cabin is intact. The outbuilding roof has collapsed, but the wall
logs are still in place.
As mentioned earlier this was one of the three shelter cabins construc-
ted by Adam Twitchell along the summer pack trail for ARC during the
summers of 1921-22 (ARC Annual Report, 1922:68).
The outbuilding was
reportedly a horsebarn built at this location (ARC Annual Report 1923:82).
The Brush Creek s h e l t e r cabin needs t o be examined on t h e ground t o
determine s t a b l i z a t i o n - p r o t e c t i o n needs f o r t h e s i t e .
This s i t e i s on
s t a t e land.
McGee S h e l t e r Cabin
A f o u r t h ARC s h e l v e r cabin, i d e n t i f i e d a s McGee cabin, i s mentioned i n
t h e 1927 ARC Annual Report (p.73) a s l y i n g along t h e summer pack t r a i l
approximately 14 miles e a s t of F l a t .
This c a b i n i s shown on t h e maps of
t h e r e g i o n published with the ARC Annual Reports (1929:
114-15;1932:
38-39).
The cabin was n o t s i g h t e d during a e r i a l reconnaissance.
Timothy Twi-
t c h e l l (pers. c o r n . ) has s i n c e i n d i c a t e d t h e l o c a t i o n of t h i s c a b i n ,
which he o c c a s i o n a l l y used f o r s h e l t e r when herding r e i n d e e r f o r h i s
f a t h e r , Adam Twitchell.
I t no doubt can be l o c a t e d i n a l a t e r a e r i a l
reconnaissance of t h e a r e a .
KALTAG TO UNALAKLEET
The 95-mile r o u t e from Kaltag t o Unalakleet(Map 5 ) , a l s o known a s t h e
Kaltag P o r t a g e , i s r e a d i l y v i s i b l e i t s e n t i r e l e n g t h .
Used as an abor-
i g i n a l t r a d e r o u t e between Eskimo and I n d i a n groups f o r a t l e a s t 150
y e a r s , i t was a l s o used a s an avenue f o r t h e m i l i t a r y telegraph system
and a U. S . m a i l r o u t e during t h e e a r l y p a r t of t h e 20th century (Andrews
and Koutsky 1 9 7 6 : l ) .
Five shelter cabins are shown along the Kaltag Portage in the ARC Annual
Report for 1932 (~p.40~41). Remains of four of these shelter cabins
were observed from the air. Edgar Kallands (pers. comm.) aided in
locating them and indicated that all were utilized by the U. S. mail
runners and by the men maintaining the section of the Washington Alaska
Military Cable and Telegraph System (WAMCATS) from Kaltag to Unalakleet.
The other shelter cabin, which was located 10 miles west of Kaltag on
the portage, burned years ago. No trace of the former site was seen
from the air.
Twenty-two-mile Cabin
Twenty-two-mile Cabin is shown on the 1954 edition of the USGS topographic map of Norton Bay.
Remnants of the log cabin are located south
of the trail on the tussock tundra in open shrubland 22 miles west of
Kaltag. The walls have partially collapsed, and the roof is gone.
Twenty-two-mile cabin was built by WAMCATS as a shelter cabin for the
men maintaining the telegraph lines between Old Woman Cabin and Kaltag
(Stuck 1914:139;ARC Annual Report 1927:78).
It was also used for shel-
ter by W. S. mail carriers and travelers (Stuck 1914;Kallands, pers.
comm.).
Photo 16 shows the site as it appeared in 1930.
The Twenty-two-mile cabin needs to be examined on the ground for proper
documentation and evaluation. Ruins at the site appear to be in need of
stabilization to prevent further degradation.
NOB-033
Ten-mile Cabin
Work at Tenmile Creek, 10 miles northeast of Old Woman Cabin, is mentioned in the ARC Annual Report for 1922 (p.78).
According to Edgar
Kallands (pers. comm.) a WAMCATS shelter cabin was built on the trail at
Tenmile Creek to house maintenance men when doing repairs on the telegraph line.
Photo 17 shows the site as it appeared in 1930.
The remains of a log cabin and a log outbuilding were seen at this
location in a small shrub-covered clearing surrounded by an open mixed
forest. The walls of the cabin are half collapsed, and the roof is
gone.
Only foundations remain of the outbuilding.
The Tenmile Cabin site needs to be examined on the ground for further
evaluation.
The cabin appears to be in need stabilization to prevent
further deterioration, and the outbuilding foundations can be tested to
determine their archeological potential.
Old Woman Cabin
Old Woman Cabin is located on the Kaltag Portage 45 miles west of Kaltag
and 50 miles east of Unalakleet.
It is identified on the 1953 edition
of the USGS topographic map of Norton Bay.
A telegraph station was
established at Old Woman Mountain in 1903 by the U. S. Army Signal Corps
(Orth 1967:721-22).
Old Woman Cabin was built at the base of the moun-
tain to house men maintaining the line between Kaltag and Unalakleet
(Stuck, 1914:135).
The remains of Old Woman Cabin were found in a shrubby clearing on the
east side of Old Woman River approximately a mile above its junction
with Unalakleet River. The log cabin has partially collapsed, and the
roof is gone. The path up to the top of Old Woman Mountain is clearly
visible, but no traces were seen of telegraph equipment there.
The site of Old Woman Cabin should be examined on the ground to determine stabilization-preservation needs.
The cabin remains appear to need
stabilization.
Whaleback Cabin
Whaleback Cabin sits in a grassy clearing along the south bank of the
Unalakleet River approximately 22 miles east of Unalakleet. The Kaltag
Portage passes just to the southeast of the cabin. A native fishing
camp lies just to the west of the old cabin. The log cabin is still
standing, although the river is severely undercutting one corner (Photo
Whaleback Cabin was one of the maintenance stations for the telegraph
line (Edgar Kallands, pers. cornm.).
U.S. Mail carriers and travelers
also used it for shelter while making the 95-mile trip between Kaltag
and Unalakleet.
(Photo 19).
At the beginning of the century, a small
Native settlement was located at Whaleback.
Indian residents (Stuck 1914:134).
There were both Eskimo and
Stuck (p.134) also notes that when
traveling along the Kaltag portage toward the east, this was the last
place that Eskimos were regularly encountered. Whaleback Cabin is the
only historic structure evident from the air at this site.
The site of Whaleback Cabin needs further evaluation to determine its
historic significance. Because the cabin itself is in immediate danger
of destruction from the encroaching river, the structure should receive
photogrammetric recordation. The feasibility of moving the cabin or
stabilizing the bank should be examined. The site should also receive
archeological testing to determine the nature and extent of subsurface
deposits.
Summary Conclusions and Recommendations
This brief survey of historic sites along the Iditarod Trail establishes
beyond any doubt the fact that there are valuable and significant historic resources along the trail. A wide variety of sites, structures
and artifacts were encountered and recorded during the brief time span
allotted for this preliminary investigation. Much more work is required
before we can fully comprehend the role of the Iditarod Trail and its
associated structures and features in the growth of modern Alaska.
This
study demonstrates that even a modest effort can yield a great deal of
information pertinent to our understanding of the trail.
The condition and integrity of cultural resources identified in this report runs the gamut from essentially intact cabins to utterly destroyed
or unidentifiable sites. In most canes, some evidence remains of the
historic use of a site, though in many cases this evidence is rapidly
deteriorating through the effects of time and man.
Sites for which scant surficial evidence remains may still yield useful1
data through archeological investigation.
The size, shape and relation-
ships between structures may be ascertainable through excavation of
foundation features. Artifacts scattered about a site or concentrated
in decayed caches or trash pits may help identify how and for what
purpose a site was occupied, and during what time span it was used.
The
interrelationships between artifacts can provide further clues about the
use of a site. Even the absence of cultural materials can be significant if that lack can provide evidence of sparse, intermittant or temporary use of a site.
Many of the cultural items that can be found on sites along the Iditarod
Trail are of a fragile or perishable nature.
This factor, plus the im-
portance of positional interrelationships for interpreting cultural evidence, makes it imperative that sites be protected from surface disturbing activities until they can be fully evaluated for their archeological
potential.
Archeological evaluation usually requires extensive "tes-
ting", that is, excavation of samples or test pits to determine the
nature and extent of subsurface deposits.
Numerous structures encountered during this investigation are well on
their way to disintigration, but still maintain enough integrity to be
recognizeable.
These partially collapsed buildings or half-rotted
caches represent a valuable resource. In most cases, the archeological
values discussed above are still intact, but these sites have the additional benefit of obvious, visible structural remains.
The enigmatic attraction of ruins give certain sites a kind of popular
appeal that make them highly amenable to interpretive and recreational
purposes.
Thus the partially intact historic site offers opportunities
for public interpretation or restoration in addition to its potential to
yield valuable information on such factors as historic construction
methods, preferences, and uses of a site.
In order to serve any or all of the potential future uses to which these
sites can be put, they must be preserved now.
Structures on these sites
are ruins now because of neglect in the past.
Continued neglect will
relegate them to eventual destruction. This report recommends that
ruins be stabilized to prevent further deterioration until more extensive studies determine the full historic significance and archeological
and recreational potential of each site.
Some of the structures encountered in the course of this survey were
essentially intact. Often these are cabins in need of only minor repairs to make them habitable and to protect them from further deteriora-
tion.
Usually these structures are suitable for use as recreational or
emergency shelters, after appropriate measures for protection and recordation of cultural values at the site. Most of these sites are in
need of immediate attention to preserve their integrity.
A t almost all of the sites investigated, there were numerous historical
artifacts. Many of these items, such as bottles, tools, traps, etc.,
are easily portable. These smaller items are gradually being removed by
collectors and scavengers, or being destroyed through environmental or
man-made factors. Significant or representative artifacts should be
collected and preserved at appropriate depositories where they will be
available for study, interpretation or display purposes. Larger items,
such as machinery and structures, need to be preserved in place through
stabilization, protective signing and similar efforts.
Since this is just a preliminary study, it undoubtably fails to include
all of the sites within the study area. Further research into historic
documentation of the trail and sites associated with it is needed to
identify other sites, and clarify and enhance our knowledge of sites
identified so far. Knowledgeable individuals familiar with sections of
the trail or features along it should be identified and consulted for
the information they are able to supply. Finally, more extensive and
detailed on-the-ground studies are needed to identify, record and evaluate cultural features along the trail, and to identify the exact condition and location of the trail itself.
In summary then, cultural features along the Iditarod Trail need to be
preserved until further evaluation can be conducted to determine their
significance and value.
Further study of sites and features along the
trail, and of the trail itself is required in order to provide sufficient information on which to base management decisions.
References Cited
Alaska Road Commission
A.R.C. Annual Report. GP0:Washington.
Map of Alaska. GP0:Washington.
A.R.C. Annual Report.
GP0:Washington.
A.R.C. Annual Report. GP0:Washington.
A.R.C. Annual Report.
GP0:Washington.
A.R.C. Annual Report. CP0:Washington.
A.R.C. Annual Report. GP0:Washington.
A.R.C. Annual Report. GP0:Washington.
A.R.C. Annual Report. GP0:Washington.
A.R.C. Annual Report. GP0:Washington.
A.R.C. Annual Report. GP0:Washington.
Alaska Sportsman
Alaska-Yukon Magazine
1908
The Imoko Diggings. October 1908.
1911
Trail Making in Alaska.
July 1911, pp49-55.
Andrews, Elizabeth and Kathryn Koutsky
1976
Ethnohistory of the Kaltag Portage, West Central Alaska.
Proceedings: First Conference on Scientific Research in
National Parks.
A.R.C.
-
In press.
See "Alaska Road Commission."
Balcom, Mary G.
1965
Ghost Towns of Alaska.
Adams Press:Chicago.
BLM
-
See "Bureau of Land Management".
BOR
-
See "Bureau of Outdoor Recreation".
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