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VIBO VALENTIA, territory to discover A GLANCE ON ITINERARIES A glance on our gastronomy: In the Province of Vibo Valentia is possible to find a wide basket of typical products and traditional dishes. To taste: Pecorino of monte Poro, ‘Nduja of Spilinga, bean of Caria, hot pepper from Poro, Fileja pasta, extra virgin olive oil, mustaccioli from Soriano, ‘Nzudde from Serra San Bruno, red onion of Tropea, Tartufo of Pizzo Calabro, mushrooms from serre, honey of the Mesima valley and many others products to taste alone or to use for preparation of traditional gastronomics recipes. A glance on sites of historic-architectural interest: Among many sites of historic and architectural interest can be mentioned: the norman sweben castle of Vibo Valentia, aragonese castle of Pizzo Calabro, the Rocchetta of Briatico, the watchtowers of Joppolo and Ricadi, the roman aqueduct of Spilinga, the caverns of Favo and villa romana “Grotta di Trisolina” of Zungri, “ferriere” of Mongiana, Nicotera castle. Historic deposition of the Vibo Valentia province can be researched in the National museum of Vibo Valentia and in the libraries of Vibo and Soriano Calabro. A glance on sites of environamental interest: LAG reference territory is particularly rich of environamental sites, where we remind: natural oasis WWF of Angitola lake, Lacina lake in the Brognaturo district, game reserve of serre, that extends itself on all the mountain side of Vibo, biogenetic nature reserve of the Marchesale and of Cropani Michone and then, who loves see, there are wonderful beaches of white sands alternated to beveled rocks that from Pizzo, go through ”la Costa degli Dei” arrive to Nicotera. A glance on sites of historic-religious interest: Among many sites of religious and cultural interest in our territory can be mentioned: the Cathedral of S. Nicola, museum of diocese in Mileto, Church of Santa Maria Maggiore and San Leoluca in Vibo Valentia, byzantine church of Santa Ruba in San Gregorio D’ippona, Matrice Church, Santa Maria of Eremo and the Certosa of Serra San Bruno, the Monserrato Basilica in Vallelonga, the small church of Piedigrotta in Pizzo Calabro, the monastery of San Domenico in Soriano Calabro, the Cathedral and the church of Santa Chiara in Nicotera, the fountain Virgin of Spilinga, the sanctuary of Madonna in Monte Poro, the sanctuary refuge of souls in Paravati of Mileto. From “Costa degli dei” to Flavors of Poro. This our short journey begins from the State capital Vibo Valentia originally called Monteleone. The city is linked to the period of Swabian rule when Frederick II carried out the military and defensive reorganization of his local territories. In 1501, Ferdinand of Aragon sold the fiefdom of Monteleone to the Pignatelli family, which obtained the privilege of being allowed to freely modify and fortify the castle of Monteleone. Historical heritage of Vibo Valentia includes different important works among which stands out the castle Norman- Swabian built between 1055 and 1057 by Ruggero the Norman; today within the castle is located the city museum. The religious/historic heritage of Vibo Valentia finds it’s key point in the cathedral, dedicated to Saint Maria Maggiore and Saint Leoluca, patron saint of the city. A building dated from XVII century built on a pre-existing byzantine church of the IX century. The cultural traditions of the small town are intimately related to the religious rituals as the Holy Week that is previous on Easter Sunday, where come in succession rituals and holy rapresentations that conclude on Easter Sunday with the dramatic procession of the “Affruntata”, or meeting between the Risen Christ and St John and the Virgin of Sorrows represented by statues carried. Between State capital typical dishes “Fileja” pasta is the protagonist.This fresh pasta made from an easy durum wheat flour mixture, kneaded together by hand. “Fileja” pasta can be served in a variety of ways: with tomato sauce sprinkled with grated “Pecorino del Monte Poro”, with porcini mushrooms or in the traditional manner with “nduja from Spilinga”. Vibo Valentia is location of hotel, small hotel and restaurants deployed in the city centre. Furthermore, in Vibo Marina are present well-known restaurants specialized in the cooking of fresh fish. 01. 01. Fileja from Vibo Valentia – typical pasta of the Vibo Valentia province 02. Swabian- Norman castle – Vibo Valentia 02. We leave Vibo to go through the see in direction of 522 state highway that will guide us to the “Costa degli Dei”. Here is Briatico where between rocks we can see the “Rocchetta”, watchtower built for protection from Saracen raids; the tower overlooks the sea. It was also intended to protect local industries such as the glass and soap factories as well as the Molini Feudali, the mills grinding wheat and other cereals for the entire area. Unlike the other coastal watchtowers, which all have square or circular plans, it has an unusual rectangular plan. It is also unusual for its position down by the shore rather than set back from the coast on high ground like the other coastal towers. Go through the coast and go on 522. state highway, we are captured from breath-taking panoramas and from pleasant panoramas that come in succession like to invite to an earthly paradise, one aer the other move the most important beaches: Zambrone is surrounded by a jagged coast, rich in rocky coves of fine and white sand beach. Aer Zambrone is possible to see Parghelia that is dotted by rocks and fringed by the jagged “Scogliera della Pizzuta” with typical pinnacle-like granite rocks emerging from the water. And we are in Tropea, considered the best beach worldwide by the prestigious Sunday Times magazine. See of this locality has been awarded the top score (“5 sails”) by Legambiente, the Italian Environmental Association on numerous occasions over the past years. The beach has fine white sand, the sea is turquoise and crystal-clear and the sloping sea bed is visible even at considerable depths due to the extraordinary transparency of the water. At the end of this section of coast is the rocky promontory known as “Scoglio di Santa Maria dell’Isola” with its medieval monastery, with byzantine inflections, emblem and symbol of Tropea all over the world. The small church is location of a Virgin statue of the 18th century and together with “Galluppi Palace” represents one of the assets of the wide historical and architectural heritage of the small town. Tropea is also synonymous of agricultural and food typicality; it takes the name from this blooming territory the red onion from Tropea P.G.I. The red onion of Tropea has a distinctive violet tunic and medium to large bulb. It is an early onion with unique organoleptic qualities making it tender, sweet and crunchy. In addition, very widespread is the legend that gives to this vegetable special aphrodisiac powers. 03. Rocchetta tower of Briatico 04. Red onion of Tropea – Calabria ( P.G.I) 05. Sanctuary S. Maria of the Island – Tropea. Small church realized on a small peninsula of tuff stone on the Tropea beach. 03. 04. 05. About two Kilometres south from Tropea, we meet The Ricadi bays (Riaci, Tono, Capo Vaticano, Scalea di Ricadi) characterized by a wide beach of white sand overlooked by limestone rocks rich in Mediterranean vegetation. The sea is a crystal-clear intense turquoise colour and the sea bottom is mainly sandy with a wide variety of fish. The Scoglio Grande looming out of the water just a few metres from the shore is the unique feature of this. «Its white sands pierced by black rocks and beds of sea grasses like pelagic pastures where the sea organisms can graze […]. You must see this spectacular sight with your own eyes – a sight unknown in our own wild, dark, misty seas – to appreciate the pleasure of observing that teeming population of tiny sea creatures». Along the Vibo coast, it’s still possible to meet pleasant and beautiful localities, like the jagged seaside of Joppolo, Coccorino and Coccorinello and we can immerse into sites riches of traditions and history like the beautiful Nicotera, with it’s cathedral, it’s own museums and the Norman castle that was built by Roberto il Guiscardo during the XI century. But it’s time to leave see to discover the magnificences of Poro altiplane. Little by little going through n. 22 provincial road that from Ricadi guides to hinterland, vegetation is painted of a strong green and all the nature shows it’s rural face. Before to arrive on the altiplane, we meet the small town of Spilinga, for too long a time famous as origin area of ‘Nduja’ all over the world. ‘Nduja’ is a typical sausage with marked texture and piquancy (no aggressive, nearly sweet to aertaste) that allowing it to be spread. According to the most likely explanation it dates to the period of French rule; apparently a very similar cured meat called “andouille” was introduced to the area by Joachim Murat, King of Naples, between 1806 and 1815. This is where the finest ‘nduja’ is made thanks to the ideal climatic conditions for curing the sausage. Very important are also traditional production methods, which are reproduced all over the world but unequalled to this day. In Spilinga are located also some sites of historic and religious interest among which to be seen: the cavern of “Madonna delle Fonti” and the roman aqueduct, located at the entrance of the small town. In this way we arrive at the altiplane of Poro, the rural heart of the Vibo Valentia province; this is located at about 700 meters height m.s.l.m. and it’s represented by pastures and half levels fields where it’s possible trekking and strolling. 06. 06. Villa Romana in Zungri - Roman period 07. Aqueduct roman period of Spilinga 08. Ndunja di Spilinga 07. 08. 09. 0 Pecorino del Poro In the area of Poro altiplane is produced one of the most important typical cheese of the Vibo Valentia province: “Pecorino del Poro” that is considered to be one of southern Italy’s finest pecorino cheeses. Pecorino del Poro is made from sheep milk using natural rennet and a traditional recipe scrupulously safeguarded and transmitted in generation to generation producing a product that is unique in terms of aroma and taste. Half aged Pecorino usually can be eaten in slices or in the antipasto. Shapes more aged can be eaten as cheese shavings instead or just as grana to grater in order to exalt main courses. On the Poro altiplane and near from there, can be taste a varied offer of traditional dishes with the earlier described products but there are also other productions to discover (hot pepper from Poro, beans from Caria, lamb meats, Ricotta from Poro and many others local delicacies). Along this our itinerary, there are many others sites to see like so courses to taste; we see that curiosity gains the upper hand and that good flavors and antique traditions can be the guide for our guests to the next location to discover. From Gioacchino Murat to Brunone of Colonia The second itinerary begins from Pizzo Calabro, renamed as one of the most important holiday resort in Calabria. The castle of Pizzo, represents one of the symbols of Napitia town, also known as the castle of Murat. It was built as a fortress in the second half of the 15th century for Ferdinand, against Saracen raids. It was also used as a prison. The prison’s most illustrious “guest” was Gioacchino Murat, King of Naples and brother-in-law of Napoleon. In 1892 Murat Castle was declared a National Monument and since 2003 it has housed the Museo Provinciale Murattiano. The museum’s holdings include historic documents, prints, and maps about the Aragonese origins of the castle as well as a collection of coins dating from 570 to 1860. Outside the old town centre, we can see the “Piedigrotta church”; it’s totally carved out of the tuff cliff; it features stalagmites that have turned into columns that have been sculpted and transformed into beautiful statues. Inside, a series of natural arches and pillars separate chapels containing statues representing various religious events. It’s impossible to visit Pizzo without tasting typical ice-cream. The most famous ice cream is the ‘tartufo bianco e nero’. It is made from hazelnut ice cream formed by hand, filled with a heart of melted dark chocolate and dusted with unsweetened cocoa and sugar. The recipe to prepare ‘gelato di Pizzo’, especially its production method, times and conservation, is a secret closely guarded by the local master ice cream makers. We go in north direction, to take 110 state highway, that will guide us on the serre mountains. Along the street, for few kilometres from beaches of Pizzo, we coast Angitola lake, protected natural oasis (in the care of WWF), and humid zone of international value where depending on periods it’s possible to admire a wide stable and migratory flora and fauna, among present birds is worthwhile to remember the osprey, great white heron, red heron, grey heron, cormorant, wild duck, the Mignattaio and many others birds. We come up along the street that will guides us on the serre mountains, crossed small rural centres, very peculiar and rich of history and culture like Vallelonga, with its Basilica of Monserrato and Capistrano, where in the main church is hosted a picture nominated for many experts to Renoir. We go through Brognaturo, dwelling of the pipes hand-craed masters and we are in Serra San Bruno, birth place of Brunone di Colonia and of his own Certosa. The Certosa is the first Carthusian monastery to have been founded in Italy, the second of the entire Order. Situated in a picturesque forest near the outskirts of Serra San Bruno, the monastery is part of a vast complex founded between 1090 and 1101 by Bruno of Cologne, the founder of the Carthusian order and of the Grande Chartreuse near Grenoble. The monastery, originally Gothic in style, was remodelled towards the end of the 16th century, probably to a design by Palladio; restorations were also carried out between the 16th and 18th centuries. Aer being destroyed by the terrible earthquake of 1783, it was rebuilt at the end of the 19th century. The interior holds 19th century marble statues, a silver reliquary bust depicting St Bruno belonging to the Neapolitan school and dating to 1520, a fine 17th century painting of St Francis of Paola attributed to Luca Giordano, and 17th century bronzes made by a French workshop. Just over a kilometre from the monastery is the lake surrounded by lush green woods where St Bruno traditionally went to repent; a statue of the kneeling saint now stands in its centre. A few steps away from Certosa is located the Church of Santa Maria dell’Eremo (or Del Bosco). At Serra San Bruno is reached via the splendid flight of steps above the small lake built in 1951 to the design of Giuseppe Maria Pisani. Built in 1094, in the place where St Bruno lived and died, it was rebuilt aer the 1783 earthquake. The altar has a fine 19th century wooden Madonna, and the choir has a 19th century painting depicting St Bruno. The “Dormitorio” is the temple where St Bruno slept and where he was buried aer his death. But who see Serra can’t ignore the majestic nature heritage. Infact, Serre Vibonesi consist of two mountain chains running almost parallel from north to south partly divided by the steep valleys of the Ancinale and Allaro torrents and by a series of large hollows. The spectacular watery and woody landscapes of the eastern area of the Serre is accompanied by the majestic rocky habitat of Monte Mammicomito (1047 m) and Monte Consolino (701 m) from which ore was mined for the Ferdinandea and Mongiana foundries and ironworks. To the south-west is the mountain group of Monti Crocco (1276 m) and Monte Seduto (1143 m), which enclose the area of the valleys of the Metramo, Fermano and Marepotamo rivers with their vast amphitheatre of woodlands. The craggy granite outcrops emerging on the peaks, as on Monte Pietra del Caricatore (1414 m), give the wooded slopes below a magical mysterious air. This habitat is characterised by an oen wild forest covering the ridges as far as the summits, as on Monte Pecoraro, whose peak reaching 1423 m.a.s.l. makes it the highest mountain in the Serre. Near the higher ground the woods are mainly silver fires and beech dominated by holm oaks as you descend. Serre also results from the presence of woods as well as mixed communities. In the wood Archiforo, in the district of Serra San Bruno, there is an ancient native fire wood. Typical dishes from serre have like characterized ingredients mushrooms. Infact several species of mushrooms grow on the slopes of the Serre Vibonesi. The most famous is the Porcini mushroom, held to be the king of mushrooms. It is very common in summer and autumn, especially aer rain. You can also find the field mushroom, Agaricus campestris, a mushroom with a distinctive scent and delicate flavor that grows in damp meadows and woods in the autumn. 10. 10 0. 10. Church of Piedigrotta – Pizzo Calabro excavated monument in the tuff stone, rich of stalagmites columns shaped to sculptures and holy deprictions; 11. 11. Commemoration historic process to “Gioacchino Murat” – Pizzo Calabro 12. 13. 12. Certosa of Serra S. Bruno 13. Snowy overview– (Pecoraro Mountain) 14. “Μustaccioli” of Soriano 14. On of the most delicious mushrooms found locally is the Amanita Cesarea, or Caesar’s Mushroom. There is also the “Gallinaccio”, commonly found in oak and chestnut woods. Also found locally is the Armillaria mellea, a pale brown mushroom growing in groups in chestnut, oak and poplar woods. Also growing in the area is the Red pine mushroom or saffron milk-cap (Lactarious deliciosus). Before to go away from Serra, it’s a duty a pause in its typical restaurants, which arise in the small town and in the near districts where it will be possible to taste all dishes with mushrooms. Furthermore, it will be possible to taste good fresh wild boar and pork meats, beginning with rich house antipasto with mushrooms, sausages and local cheeses. Closing the meal, its duty to combine to the sweets and traditional ‘Nduzze, a herb digestive of the certosini monks. Moreover, to stay in the agritourism and in the rural receptive structures foresees an offer very wide, where, sink into a relaxed environment, can be facilitate the sleep with a lot of hobbies (riding, adventure park, didactics farms, festivals and so on). We go away from Serra San Bruno towards Mongiana, where is located the “Parco di Villa Vittoria”, which is run by the Italian State Forestry Corps and is the only nature reserve in the area. The reserve represents an unique natural oasis. Inside Villa Vittoria park, we find a botanical garden, nature trails and a small lake. The facility is a model of environmental education and is visited by students and researchers from universities all over Italy. The fauna in the park includes horses, wild pigs, mouflon, fallow deer, deer, roe deer, pheasants and peacocks. There is also a garden with medicinal and aromatic herbs. Before to leave serre mountains, we go to Ferdinandea, a huge private estate of approximately 3600 hectares, lying between altitudes of 800 and 1400 metres, that occupies parts of Stilo, Bivongi, Brognaturo, Mongiana and Serra San Bruno districts. Covered by tall trees, dominated by beech and silver fir, it is a site of historical interest with rich landscape and natural resources. Founded in 1833 as a metalworks to process iron ore from the mines on nearby Monte Stella, Ferdinandea was inaugurated by Ferdinand II of the Two Sicilies, who used it as his own personal hunting grounds and gave it its name. As well as the workshops it had a hunting lodge, ironworks, barracks, residential and administrative buildings, riding stables and sheds for the livestock. Into the residence are still present furniture, titled emblems of time and some pictures. In addition appear splendid open staircases to the upper floors. We start to go down to the “Mesima valley”, meeting along the way, several “Carbonaie”, typical extemporaries local structures for coal preparation. Along the 182 state highway, we arrive to Soriano Calabro, a town rich of handcraed activities, like wicker production and culture centre, where is located the calabrian library that hosts inside more than 30.000 volumes related to the argument “Calabria”, apart from manuscripts, records and episcopal documents. Library guards also many geographic map copies, dresses patterns and calabrian portraits. In the centre of Soriano, is located the historical complex of San Domenico that includes monastery and the ancient sanctuary, built at the beginning of the XVI century. The monastery had a considerable importance, as far as spiritual aspects and politics is concerned. At the congregation of this convent took part four Popes; inside the convent found hospitality the philosopher Tommaso Campanella and the emperor Carlo V. The monastery was abolished from the earthquake of the 1783. Today of the majestic historical complex remain only some ruins: some courtyard, small shops and part of baroque façade. In the San Domenico church can be admired a lot of decorations that are located in the sanctuary, greater altar in marble, works carving of the 18th century and pictorials works of great interest, in addition to San Domenico statue carved in an unique wood trunk by the sculptor from Soriano Giuseppe Ruffo. Works of great cultural interest are preserved into the monastery library, which has more than 12.000 preciousness volumes. The gastronomic speciality from Soriano are surely sweets and the most typical local biscuit is the mostaccioli that are heavy, hard, compact biscuits made from flour, honey, mosto (or grape juice). They are decorated with small pieces of coloured foil and come in a variety of shapes allowing bakers to reveal their artistic flair. Infact, these biscuits includes light meenings in own anthropomorphism shapes. Typical was the custom to give to the sweet the statue shape of the small town Saint protector, where “mostacciolari” went to offer their own sweets. Go through the 182 state highway in direction to Vibo Valentia city, we arrive in the heart of the river Mesima valley, a wide rural area where are produced some typical agricultural and food productions from Vibo, like olive oil. The oil produced in the province of Vibo Valentia is a light easily digested oil with a delicious flavour and smell extracted from perfectly ripened olives from local variety like: Ottobratica, Ciciariello e Tombarello. In the Mesima Valley, between rural centres of Piscopio, Francica, Stefanaconi, Sant’Onofrio and Maierato, the cra of beekeeping is a very ancient tradition passed down from father to son. The produced honey, typical is the Sulla honey, it’s a key ingredient also in the confectionary productions. They include “’Nzudde” made in Serra San Bruno, “morticeddi”, the small marzipan, “pignolata” and “mostaccioli di Soriano” (VV). Many others natural, cultural and good cooking sites could be discovered by visitors, going to visit our territory. 15. Mushrooms and local typical underbrush 16. Ferdinandea, old nobiliary residence of Federico II - Mongiana 15. 16. 17. 18 17. Calabrian Library of Soriano Calabro 18. Church of Saint Domenico of Soriano