Hungarian cooking, indoors and out

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Paprikas Chicken is served with homemade Galuska (egg dumplings), cucumber salad, and sourdough bread.
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Hungarian cooking,
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and out
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When talking to Paulette and Laszlo Fono, you instantly sense
how much their Hungarian background influences the way they live
now. They came from Hungary in the '50s, and their home is enriched with Hungarian antiques and family heirlooms. But more
pertinent from a culinary standpoint, the Fonos eat Hungarian foods
every day, and own and operate a Hungarian restaurant.
Not surprisingly, Paulette is very knowledgeable about her cooking heritage. She divides Hungarian cooking into two distinct styles
—the country foods that have evolved from early nomadic tribes,
and the formal foods handed down by the nobility. Paulette can prepare either type, to suit the occasion. And when it's a festive
family gathering, like the one assembled for our visit, the whole
family pitches in, including Laszlo, daughter Andrea, Paulette's sister
Maria, and nieces.
Paulette let us sample three representative examples of her country cooking—two versions of gulyas and a paprikas. As you'd expect
of country food, the dishes were hearty and substantial. All were
liberally seasoned and vividly colored with paprika. In fact, Paulette
told us that paprika is so often used that it could probably be called
the national spice of Hungary.
Of the two types of paprika, Hungarian and Spanish, Paulette
opts for her native variety. Hungarian paprika is made from paprika
peppers first brought from India by the Turks. It may be labeled
Left: Andrea anxiously watches Paulette ladle up bowls of Beef Gulyas Soup
while Laszlo grills Gypsy Pork Steaks. Right: Fish Gulyas is suspended in a
b o g r á c s , a portable kettle similar to those used by Hungarian herdsmen.
"sweet" or "rose," but either way will have a mildly piquant and
slightly sweet taste. Spanish paprika, on the other hand, comes from
paprika peppers native to North and South America, and it has a
more pungent flavor.
That evening, the Fonos displayed a tableful of Hungarian foods
used for more formal dining. In marked contrast to the bolder country dishes, these festive foods were delicately seasoned and decidedly
elegant. A buffet of rich Hungarian desserts capped the meal.
Recipes begin on page 124
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I6TTER MOM£S A NO GARDENS, JUNE, 1974
Top left: (from front) Dobos Torta, Paillette's Torta, Ordog Pirula (Little
Devils), and Hungarian Vanilla Souffle Palacsintas.
Top right: (clockwise) Fish in aspic, sauced cauliflower salad, Ham-filled
Roulade, tenderloin with vegetables, red cabbage, and duck.
Above: The formal buffet dinner is typical of ones that Paulette's family has
traditionally served for holidays and special occasions.
Left: Maria spreads filling between layers of Dobos Torta. The caramelized
topping goes on hot, and the cake top is cut while still slightly warm.
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