Alisara`s Estonian Escapade

Alisara’s Estonian Escapade
John de Trafford
True or false? 1) Tallinn, the capital of Estonia, is an ancient walled city
that is recognised as an UNESCO Heritage Site. 2) Tallinn, with its lively
pubs and restaurants, is a well-known destination for partying and cheap
booze. Despite the potential contradictions, both are true. It is this split
personality that makes Tallinn such a great destination for the cruising
yachtsman and jumping off point for further exploration of the Baltic
States.
In 2012 and 2013 Alisara completed six fortnightly cruises, from
Scotland to the Oslo Fjord, then across Sweden via the Gota Canal, before
heading east to reach her winter quarters near Helsinki. I planned to
join the RCC meet in July 2014 but, before starting the return journey
west, it seemed a shame not to escape south for a fortnight in May. Time
and a crew preference for daytime sailing resulted in a plan that took in
Tallinn and the Estonian Islands, but did not extend as far as Latvia and
Lithuania.
20e
22e
24e
FINLAND
60n
lsin
ki
mn
ha
rie
Ma
He
Årland Is
Munckshamn
Hanko
Hogholmen
Ta
lli
nn
Le
Alisara
Dirhami
htm
40ft Humphries
Custom Design
a
ESTONIA
Hiiumaa
Muhu
Ku
Ku
res
Saaremaa
sa
are
28
iva
stu
0
40nm
Alisara’s Estonian Escapade
First Alisara had to be roused from her winter slumber. It was a typically
brisk day in mid-May when I flew into Helsinki and headed out to the
south-western docks, where Jouko Lingren has his yard. Never has Alisara
been so cosseted - a heated shed to protect her from the icy Finnish winter.
How spoiling! I had given myself a 24 hour start on the rest of the crew
to relaunch and I found her in good order with the last touches of paint
drying on the keel. A quick trip to buy some essential foodstuffs and I was
able to unpack and take stock. It was a lovely feeling to be back on board
and to take pride in one’s own ship – even if she was still inside the shed!
That night was probably the quietest and warmest I have ever
experienced on Alisara. I had the shed to myself until the yard sprang
into life the next morning. Then it was all go as she was craned in and
the mast refitted. Alisara’s wing-mast is unusual in that it rotates at deck
level through an enormous rudder- bearing, with the end-socket stepped
onto a ball fixed to the keelson. It was the first time that I had supervised
the procedure of re-slotting the mast and I was heartily relieved when the
operation was completed successfully. Shortly afterwards the crew arrived
Alisara at Lingren’s with a large neighbour
and I was glad to be able to present them with something resembling a
yacht, even if she was still devoid of boom, running rigging and sails.
We motored almost immediately the short distance from the yard into
central Helsinki and tied up in the NJK’s (Nylandska Jaktklubben’s)
Blekholmen island, which had been our departure point before laying-up
29
John de Trafford
Charles, Jo, Anne and John at Suomenlinna
some seven months earlier. My wife, Anne, was with me again, but this
time we were joined by Charles and Jo. Both Anne and Jo are fair weather
sailors, so we had been anxiously looking at the weather forecasts, but all
seemed well with mostly light winds and the prospect of warmer days to
come.
Indeed the next day dawned fair and I was able to reprovision with
Anne, while Charles and Jo went sightseeing. Blekholmen proved to be a
good base for our first two nights. The yachtsmen’s dinner in the old NJK
clubhouse was delicious; the slop from passing boats seemed less than I
remembered and the centre of Helsinki was close at hand. On Sunday
morning we all took the little ferry to the mainland and visited the two
principal cathedrals, one Orthodox and one Lutheran. ‘They glare at each
other like two maiden aunts from atop their respective hills,’ to quote the
guide book. The former scored for its beautiful icons and well-practised
choir, while the latter boasted a woman preacher who could repeat herself
in three languages. We voted it an honourable draw.
However, by Sunday afternoon it was time to put to sea – if that is
not too bold a term for the short distance to the ancient fortress of
Suomenlinna that guards the approaches to Helsinki. The first sail of the
season is always a joyous occasion, although this time it was all too short.
Soon we were doubling back to the gap between the islands that leads into
the guesthamn. There was an early season feel to the place, with none of
the crowds that fill the harbour in July, making it easy to find space and
tie up alongside.
On Monday morning we joined the day-trippers who had taken the
ferry from Helsinki to visit the extensive UNESCO Heritage Site. It felt
slightly embarrassing for a party of French and Brits to be visiting a site
30
Alisara’s Estonian Escapade
that had been severely damaged by a Franco-British bombardment in
the mid-nineteenth century. However, this had shown the Russians the
vulnerability of St Petersburg to a sea-borne force and hastened the end
of the Crimean War.
We had intended to set sail that afternoon, but there was a forecast of
thunderstorms which encouraged us to stay a further night. Sure enough
we were enjoying a pre-dinner drink in the cockpit when a line of dark
clouds approached; the wind swung through 1800 and gusted strongly
while the thunder boomed and lightning crackled overhead. It was all
over almost as soon as it had started, but nevertheless we were glad to be
safely tied up in harbour.
In contrast the next day was almost windless and we were forced to
motor to the NJK harbour at Hogholmen Island. The disappointment of
the men-folk was offset by the pleasure of our wives at being able to enjoy
a calm day, chatting in the cockpit. We entered up the narrow channel,
swung to port and secured the stern buoy with the Scandinavian pick-up
hook, before landing Charles with two spring hooks to secure the bow lines.
It was a remarkably smooth, first-time manoeuvre with this crew, helped
of course by the lack of wind. If only it were always so straightforward!
Charles and Jo had been promised a visit to one of the NJK island
harbours and it didn’t disappoint. The clubhouse was impeccably kept,
Alisara in the trees at Hogholmen island
just as I remembered from my visit the previous year. Soon we were at work
lighting the fire for the sauna and chopping wood to replenish the existing
stock. I am still on a learning curve with regard to the whole Finnish
sauna experience. They must absorb from childhood the intricacies of
31
John de Trafford
preparing a fire, getting the sauna up to temperature, creating the right
amount of steam . . . not to mention the behavioural etiquette pre-, during
and post-sauna.
I had promised the ladies that we would put them on the ferry to Tallinn
if the weather threatened to be rough, but that turned out to be unnecessary.
The forecast was for light winds and a pleasant 170C, increasing to 270C
by the weekend. Surely they meant a temperature of 170C rather than
270C? But not at all! Tallinn actually recorded an unseasonal 300C for two
consecutive days, giving no grounds for complaint.
The log records that we left Finland for Estonia under motor in F1
or less and then hit a patch of breeze that had us sailing at 7kts before it
died away. We motor-sailed most of the 37 miles south, with the emphasis
on the first part of this term. The wind became very light and veered
slowly from east to west. There was hardly a ripple to be seen, except for
the wash from a passing ferry, and we entertained ourselves with a tasty
smörgåsbord lunch before competing to see who could be first to spot the
church spires of Tallinn.
I had decided to reserve a space in the Old Harbour Marina, believing
that its central location would justify the premium price, but we also
Tallinn
discovered that it provided extensive facilities. The showers and saunas
were well appointed and use of the washing machines was free. However,
the real benefit was the short stroll into the historic heart of Tallinn.
Charles and Jo found us the delightful Restoran Dominic for dinner,
which was very reasonably priced. Later that night we wandered around
32
Alisara’s Estonian Escapade
the city, soaking up the atmosphere. All agreed that it had great charm
and a more than passing resemblance to Prague.
The next day was dedicated to sightseeing. I had lugged gear around
and hauled up sails without mishap, but a gentle stretch in the shower
room put my back out. I was therefore searching for additional supplies of
ibuprofen between visits to attractive churches and museums. That night
we enjoyed a farewell meal on board and recalled the highlights of the
cruise. The four of us had enjoyed a memorable trip along the Caledonian
Canal a few years earlier, but this beat it for weather and the surprising
riches of the final destination. So it was with heavy hearts that the next
day we cleaned ship and said our goodbyes as the taxi arrived for the short
journey to the airport.
I very often enjoy a gap between crews at the weekly change-over, but
Hallam, his wife Lal and my old friend Nigel were flying in on the plane
that took the previous crew home. I barely had time for one or two boat
chores before the three of them arrived. That afternoon was spent catching
up on our respective news, briefing the crew, stowing gear and enjoying an
early dinner on board before hitting the town.
Saturday turned out to be another beautifully sunny day. I had
scheduled some sightseeing in Tallinn, but first we had to reprovision.
I always promise my crews that we will cater for individual tastes, but
sometimes they have to be restrained from stocking up on bulky cartons
of unlikely products. Nigel was glad to find that Marmite is a staple on
board, but felt that breakfast would not be the same without copious
amounts of carrot juice. That evening we enjoyed a very pleasant meal on
the terrace of Bocca, a stylish Italian restaurant with an Estonian twist.
The next day we were on our way westward along the coast, but first
we had to ask for a time slot to thread our way out through the bustling
ferries. This was given after a short delay and we were soon hoisting
sail and enjoying a close fetch in F3. Sadly it was not to last as the wind
eased and veered to the west. It remained fickle, increasing for a while
and then almost totally dying away, forcing us to motor the last few miles
to Dirhami harbour. The FPI notes referred to a harbour master called
Dick, but it was Artur who greeted us and - at least as far as our halting
communications would allow - appeared to have no knowledge of his
predecessor. There was evidence of EU money being invested to generate
tourism, including a very new shower block. This was appreciated by the
crew, because they braved the algae bloom (looking like thin wisps of
seaweed floating just below the surface of the water) for a swim in the sea,
secure in the knowledge that they would be able to wash it off afterwards.
Dirhami was almost deserted and that was to be the pattern for the
next few days around the north-west Estonian coastline. We saw very few
other boats of any description and hardly any local yachts tied up in the
33
John de Trafford
harbours. Perhaps it was too early in the season. A walk along the shore in
the golden evening light revealed a sea that was littered with large rocks.
It was as if a giant had amused himself by hurling large boulders around
at random.
The following day we headed south towards Moon Sound. I had followed
FPI advice and purchased a copy of Arthur Ransom’s book Voyage of the
Racundra which described his adventures sailing in these waters during
the 1920’s. Some things had changed, but much remained the same. One
can only admire the intrepid seamen of an earlier age who navigated these
waters without all the modern equipment we enjoy today. The arrival of
GPS has taken much of the angst out of navigation in tricky waters.
Our destination was Kuivastu on the island of Muhu (known to
Ransome by the evocative name of Moon Island). The log recalls winds
from F1 to F4, veering from SW to NW, as we altered course to follow the
recommended passage through the shallows. It was a lovely sunny day and
a typical smörgåsbord lunch was enjoyed in the cockpit. Hallam and Lal
were new to Alisara, while Nigel has been a regular crewmember, but it
didn’t take long for everyone to settle happily into their respective roles.
Our approach to the harbour was straightforward and we were met
by Olev, the harbour master. He proudly showed us round the facilities
(more EU money) and tried to help with plans for the following day. We
had decided not to sail round to the historic town of Kuressaare on the
neighbouring island of Saaremaa (yes, with four a’s - the Estonians, like
the Finns, have a lot of vowels in their place names), but to go by road,
crossing over the bridge from Muhu. Several phone calls failed to raise
a hire car and so we had to enquire about bus times. This proved to be
a challenge for Olev, but one he rose to and by the next morning he had
produced a computer print-out of all the options.
It was our first grey day and lightly spitting with rain, as we waited at
the bus stop. Suddenly we spotted Olev running towards us, gesticulating
wildly. We were at the wrong stop and in imminent danger of missing
our bus. Luckily we just caught it and the 90 minute journey gave us
an excellent chance to see something of the countryside, as well as the
pleasure of observing our fellow bus passengers. Much as I like isolated
anchorages, there can be a danger of exploring by sea in the hermetic
bubble of a yacht without giving sufficient time to experience the interior
and its people.
Kuressaare lived up to expectations. The bishops’ palace is the
highlight, but the town hall is also fine. It is easy to dismiss any ugliness
as a relic of the Soviet era, but this is probably too glib. There is a
fascinating exhibition of Estonian history in the palace, which explains
how they suffered repeated invasions during WW2 and why they are
such committed members of the EU today. After a trip to the market,
34
Alisara’s Estonian Escapade
where Hallam bought an ancient plane (the kind that shaves wood), we
headed back to Alisara for the A-Team’s prawn curry and several rounds
of Bananagrams (using our usual boat rules to rein in Nigel’s winning
streak).
For several days I had been watching the weather forecast, but nothing
could avoid the fact that the wind was resolutely increasing and going
round to the north - precisely the direction of our final destination. We
played around with Plan A, Plan B, Plan C etc. before opting to sail to
Lehtma at the northern end of Hiiumaa. It was blowing F6 and pinning us
to the harbour wall, so it was with some nervousness that I tried springing
off and turning in the tight confines of the harbour before making our
Rough seas in Moon Sound
JdeT, Oil on canvass
exit. Luckily it worked and soon we were bashing to windward against the
short, steep seas.
This was not the first occasion on which I had been grateful for Alisara’s
fixed cockpit canopy. It bore the brunt of the spray and the crew remained
cheerful throughout. One of them wrote ‘continuing bouncy’ in rather
uneven writing in the log. Hats off to Lal who had little experience of
sailing offshore, but endured the 50 mile beat with a smile on her face.
In fact we all had a good laugh when there was an explosion from down
below, followed by a string of curses. Nigel had disappeared for a pee but
inadvertently tugged on his lifejacket toggle, as he struggled to remove it.
Luckily we had several spares.
35
John de Trafford
In fact it was not the only time that day that a lifejacket had inflated.
Lehtma harbour is protected from northerly winds by a substantial sea
wall and this was festooned with old tractor tyres, but no sign of a ladder.
On the second attempt we managed to land Hallam with a mooring line,
but he was unable to clamber up from the tyre onto the dockside and
fell slowly backwards into the water. Fortunately we soon had him back
on board and were able to secure ourselves. It was at this point that the
harbour master appeared and suggested that we move to the inner and
rather shallow part of the harbour. Once Hallam had dried off, we did
so and were glad of the proximity of the showers and a heated changing
room, which soon began to resemble a Chinese laundry.
Lehtma was not my favourite harbour, because the strong winds had
driven sand from the beach onto the dock and pontoons, and which then
spread to Alisara’s deck. Damp ropes picked up the sand and transferred it
to the rope clutches. Subsequent use then shredded the covering over the
rope’s dyneema core, necessitating two expensive replacements. Perhaps
my impression of Lehtma would be more favourable on a sunny day.
We wrestled with a further set of optional destinations, with the aim of
avoiding too much crashing and bashing across the Gulf of Finland. In the
event we set off with two reefs in the main, but progressively shook them
out as we headed north. The wind was much less than forecast, although
there was a grey and sloppy sea. We had zigzagged just short of 60 miles by
the time we turned into the NJK harbour at Munckshamn. I had stopped
there the previous year and, with dusk falling, it was a welcome sight.
Better still, there was a Finnish yacht that helped us secure to the shore
and informed us that
the sauna was stoked
up and ready to go.
Bliss!
After the hard miles,
our final destination
of Hanko was only a
few hours away, and
so we rose late and
enjoyed some leisure
time - walking, bird
watching (the feathered
kind) and painting.
It was after lunch by
the time we set sail
and the mist still
shrouded the silvery
sea. However, no-one
Alisara under asymmetric
36
Alisara’s Estonian Escapade
was complaining because we were able to hoist the large red asymmetric.
There is something magical about seeing Alisara pick up speed and the
apparent wind swing ahead of the beam, as she surges forward. By now
the crew had worked out their respective duties and Lal, by virtue of her
superior eyesight, was lookout, while the rest of us took turns on the fog
horn.
All too soon it was over and we dropped sail to motor into Hanko. At
this point the mist had thickened and there was something unreal about
creeping into the harbour by GPS to suddenly see masts rising out of the
gloom. It is exciting to explore new cruising grounds, but also rather nice
to revisit a familiar harbour. Oscar came to greet us as we refuelled and
then led us to our berth while Christoffer delivered the keys for the hired
car. The previous year we had eaten at Makasini. When I phoned to book,
Marika claimed to recognise my voice even before I gave my name as ‘Mr
John’.
Our four lengthier days, each of 50 - 60 miles, had given us time for a
third day of sightseeing - this time in Helsinki - before the final clean up
and flights home. It made for a very happy and varied Leg 2 cruise. The
season was to consist of a further 4 legs, taking Alisara west to the RCC meet
in Mariehamn and then on to the Stockholm Archipelago in July, before
heading south to Kalmar and Bornholm in August, prior to laying up in
Copenhagen for the winter. A further 12 ‘unsung’ crewmembers joined me
on these legs and I am thankful to all 18 of them for contributing so much
to another great season in the Baltic.
37