- The Leela

Transcription

- The Leela

Chairman’s Message
T
here comes a moment in time when a man decides to
pass on his achievements, his successes and dreams
to his next generation, knowing fully well that they
are in safe hands and that his legacy will continue to
grow further.
As the founder of The Leela Group, having turned an idea
into a reality and having seen its stupendous growth — 25
years and eight properties — I want to now envision a bigger
role for the Group and take it forward into that realm of success
that is above competition. I would like The Leela Group to
continue to be a benchmark in hospitality in India.
With my involvement in significant projects aimed at
making The Leela Group set another milestone, I accept the
Leela’s board of directors’ decision to honour me as Chairman
Emeritus and Founder Chairman.
“I intend to devote my
time towards performing
my role as a visionary”
Likewise, I have handed over the day-to-day charge
of the Group to my able sons — Vivek and Dinesh Nair.
Vivek Nair takes over as the Chairman and Managing Director
and Dinesh Nair as the Co-Chairman and Managing Director of
The Leela Palaces, Hotels and Resorts.
I am a karmayogi (one who achieves perfection via action)
and will continue to remain one.
While my sons and grandchildren share the responsibilities
to ensure the smooth functioning of The Leela Group and to
steer it towards greater success, I intend to devote my time
towards performing my role as a visionary. I will now oversee
the opening of six new hotels in the coming years — foremost
being at cities like Agra, Jaipur, Ashtamudi in Kerala, Bangalore
and Noida. I will make them, run them, and manage them. The
company has decided to manage hotels rather than just build
properties on its own. Even in the properties we are building,
we are bringing in joint venture partners. I also want to explore
tourism in untapped markets like Bhutan and Sikkim closer
home, as well as abroad.
A plan close to my heart is to build a knowledge city
6
Padma Bhushan Captain C. P. Krishnan Nair
across the new international airport in my home district,
CHAIRMAN EMERITUS AND FOUNDER CHAIRMAN
The Leela Palaces, Hotels and Resorts
fulfilling them.
THE LEELA MAGAZINE – SUMMER 2013
Kannur. With bigger dreams, I continue to take firm strides to
Chairman’s Message
T
here comes a moment in time when a man decides to
pass on his achievements, his successes and dreams
to his next generation, knowing fully well that they
are in safe hands and that his legacy will continue to
grow further.
As the founder of The Leela Group, having turned an idea
into a reality and having seen its stupendous growth — 25
years and eight properties — I want to now envision a bigger
role for the Group and take it forward into that realm of success
that is above competition. I would like The Leela Group to
continue to be a benchmark in hospitality in India.
With my involvement in significant projects aimed at
making The Leela Group set another milestone, I accept the
Leela’s board of directors’ decision to honour me as Chairman
Emeritus and Founder Chairman.
“I intend to devote my
time towards performing
my role as a visionary”
Likewise, I have handed over the day-to-day charge
of the Group to my able sons — Vivek and Dinesh Nair.
Vivek Nair takes over as the Chairman and Managing Director
and Dinesh Nair as the Co-Chairman and Managing Director of
The Leela Palaces, Hotels and Resorts.
I am a karmayogi (one who achieves perfection via action)
and will continue to remain one.
While my sons and grandchildren share the responsibilities
to ensure the smooth functioning of The Leela Group and to
steer it towards greater success, I intend to devote my time
towards performing my role as a visionary. I will now oversee
the opening of six new hotels in the coming years — foremost
being at cities like Agra, Jaipur, Ashtamudi in Kerala, Bangalore
and Noida. I will make them, run them, and manage them. The
company has decided to manage hotels rather than just build
properties on its own. Even in the properties we are building,
we are bringing in joint venture partners. I also want to explore
tourism in untapped markets like Bhutan and Sikkim closer
home, as well as abroad.
A plan close to my heart is to build a knowledge city
6
Padma Bhushan Captain C. P. Krishnan Nair
across the new international airport in my home district,
CHAIRMAN EMERITUS AND FOUNDER CHAIRMAN
fulfilling them.
Kannur. With bigger dreams, I continue to take firm strides to
CONTENTS
THE LEELA MAGAZINE — SUMMER 2013
24
6
10
Luxe Effect
12
Fashion
18
Music
24
Adventure
Spruce up your style quotient
with a wristwear that befits
your personality
An exclusive preview of
designer Atsu Sekhose’s
Fall/Winter ’13 collection
Year-round music festivals
promoting Indian music are
fast becoming the rage
Skiing wonders at Chamonix
valley and Courmayeur in
the Swiss Alps
34
Travel
42
Literary
46
Tribute
52
Photo Essay
A trip to Darjeeling, home to
the world’s best tea, and a hill
station with a British charm
Author Amish Tripathi talks
about Lord Shiva and his latest
book in the Shiva Trilogy
Bombay Talkies, an anthology
film, pays tribute to 100 years
of Indian cinema
Soak in the mesmerising view
of the cherry blossoms in full
bloom in Japan
T H E
L E E L A
M A G A Z I N E
—
S U M M E R
2 0 1 3
CONTENTS
58
Tradition
6o
Oenophilia
62
Snapshot
Break bread the traditional
Indian way — straight from
the griddle and served hot
The rare Krug Clos
d’Ambonnay is on The Leela
Palace New Delhi wine list
Decipher the property from
the photograph and win a gift
voucher from The Leela
64
Accolades
66
Events
70
Insider’s Guide
Aishwarya Nair honoured by
the Corporation des Vignerons
de Champagne
Distinguished winners of the
first Kashmir to Kerala Social
Foundation Awards 2013
Designer Ravi Bajaj unravels
the hidden charms of the
walled city of old Delhi
COVER
An embroidered net gown from
ATSU’s Fall/Winter ’13 collection
shot at The Leela Palace New Delhi
Photograph: Tarun Vishwa
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“This Magazine is published by Hotel Leela ventures Limited (“Leela”) and produced by Mediascope Publicitas
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8
CORPORATE
CEO & MANAGING DIRECTOR — Marzban Patel
EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR — Anita Patel
CFO — Manish Mehta
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CONNECT WITH US ON
Luxe Effect
Wrist wrap
Exude style, elegance and sophistication with
the right wristwear that befits your personality
1
2
3
4
1.
Jaquet Droz’s Petite
2. Inspired by Venice,
3.
Harry Winston’s
4.
Breguet’s high
Heure Minute 35mm
Ulysse Nardin’s
Midnight Moon Phase
jewelley watch, Crazy
watch is made of steel,
limited-edition (18
is available in either an
Flower, is made of
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pieces) Minute Repeater
18-carat rose gold or an
18-carat white gold
of-pearl dial and has
Carnival of Venice is
18-carat white gold with
with rows of baguette-
eight stars, a signature
made of platinum, has
91 brilliant-cut diamonds.
cut diamonds and a
of the brand, scattered
Jaquemarts on the
The rose gold version has
calibre 586 self-
across the dial in a
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winding mechanical
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champlevé technique.
and a tree motif.
movement.
To buy, visit:
For watches 1 & 4: Johnson’s Watch Co, C–16, Connaught Place, New Delhi. Contact: 91 11 4151 3121 • 2. Swiss Promotion Pvt. Ltd., S-23,
3rd floor Above Canara Bank, Green Park Extension, New Delhi. Contact: 91 11 4616 0501. • 3. Time Avenue Pvt. Ltd. 189, Turner Road, Bandra (West), Mumbai.
Contact: 91 22 2651 5757; Harry Winston Boutique, Jot Impex Pvt Ltd., 244 DLF Emporio, Vasant Kunj, New Delhi. Contact: 91 11 4660 9090.
10
Fashion
I
t’s not everyday that you come across
a fashion designer from the northeastern part of the country taking the
fashion world by storm. Atsu Sekhose
is one such name. A talented fashion
designer hailing from Nagaland, in the
north-eastern part of India, Atsu has
been the talk of the town ever since his
debut collection was showcased in 2007.
At the Wills Lifestyle India Fashion Week
Spring/Summer 2013, his eponymous
label (ATSU) had models strutting down
the ramp in Eri silk parkas, trench
coats, patchwork skirts made apparent,
Assamese muga silk shirt paired with
Mizo woven silk pants, Angami pencil
skirts as well as shorts with traditional
Manipuri weave. He had collaborated
with the Ministry of Textiles to showcase
traditional fabrics from India’s northeast and his collection earned him
rave reviews.
If you thought the north-east was
only about rock concerts and momos,
Atsu’s designs are sure to offer you a
peek into the rich fashion sensibilities of
the region.
Eclectic
Atsu
12
A preview of designer
Atsu Sekhose’s Fall/
Winter 2013 collection
shot exclusively at
Le Cirque at The Leela
Palace New Delhi
Photographs: Tarun Vishwa
Left: A box pleated gold
embroidered long dress
Facing page: (Left to right)
Black net yoke embroidered bird
gown with long sleeves;
An off-shoulder embroidered
blouse with net skirt dress
SUMMER 2013 – THE LEELA MAGAZINE
13
A graduate of NIFT, New Delhi,
invited to showcase at Tranoi, Paris.
Delhi-based Atsu apprenticed under
Vogue magazine profiled him as the most
one of India’s leading fashion designer,
promising designer to watch out for.
Tarun Tahiliani and with the Spanish
Left to right: Black embroidered lace
blouse and a digital printed skirt dress
with a train; Gold and black embroidered
shoulder net yoke dress with sleeves;
Black and white embroidered blouse with
side slit skirt dress and black pants
14
His
Spring/Summer
2009
high street brand Zara for a couple of
collection bagged him the best debut
years before launching his label (ATSU)
by
in 2006. Since his Spring/Summer 2007
spotlighted his Spring/Summer 2009
debut, the brand has grown immensely
as one of the strongest collections
and received several accolades. Primarily
of the season. He also showcased his
Atsu Sekhose
known for his chic, feminine and
Spring/Summer 2010 collection at the
A+M Studio, Building No.11,
Dayal Bagh, Surajkund Road,
Faridabad, Haryana-121009.
Contact: +91 98101 14431
www.atsu.in
understated clothing, Atsu’s label has
Milan Fashion Week.
Above: (Left to right) Long sleeve offshoulder dress; Red and black embroidered
horizontal stripes blouse with digital
printed skirt dress; Waist embroidered
one-shoulder draped dress with gold pants;
Black embroidered net peplum dress
Elle
style
awards
and
Vogue
evolved into a complete ready-to-wear
His clientele comprises the crème
collection, which firmly highlights his
de la crème of Mumbai and Delhi.
signature style and modern adaptations
He retails from Ogaan (New Delhi),
to classic silhouettes. He has effectively
Mélange (Mumbai), Ensemble (Delhi
showcased the little known textiles and
and Mumbai) and Collage (Bangalore
weaves of the north-eastern parts of
and Chennai).
the country.
Atsu’s
avant-garde
fashion
has
(The garments showcased in this feature
been featured by Elle magazine and
will be made-to-order at the designer’s
he has been termed as the rising star
studio by appointment only.
of Indian fashion. He has even been
Prices will be available on request).
15
Music
T
owards the end of 2012, musicphiles in India were a satiated
lot. We are no longer looking covetously westwards as we
have done for so many decades, lamenting the lack of musical
extravaganzas and planning expensive festival attendance
elsewhere in the world. Join the country’s Wayfarer wearing
hipster crowds who have finally found succour within borders,
with a virtual downpour of music festivals and are raring to
follow the sounds of the tanpura even if it means going to the
dunes of Rajasthan.
From the paddy fields
of Arunachal Pradesh
to the vineyards
of Nashik, music
festivals promoting
Indian music are fast
gaining ground all
over the country.
Isha Singh Sawhney
tunes into some of
the favourites
among musicphiles
All making for some pretty tough Sophie’s choices
through the year; should we go to the beautiful paddy fields
of Arunachal Pradesh’s Ziro with the Radiohead-inspired
singing of Sky Rabbit’s lead Raxit Tewari or wine soak in the
vineyards of Nashik, at the Sula Festival; fuelled with copious
amounts of live music, and the tunes of another Tewari,
Ankur and the Ghalat Family. Or, should we choose between
pitching a tent under the star spangled skies in the middle of
Jodhpur’s dunes for an otherworldly mix of global music
at the Ragasthan Festival or the annual innovate mélange of
jugalbandi collaborations, under the backdrop of the year’s
fullest, brightest moon, across various parts of the majestic
Mehrangarh Fort.
It’s arduous for music fans to decide, especially when served
with a drool-inducing bricolage of indie rock, folktronica,
heavy metal, Electronic Dance Music (EDM), pop and
Indian music
festivals
on high-octane
reggae artists.
Today, spoilt-for-choice, music devotees aren’t game for
the cheap set ups and slapdash organisation. Acerbic music
critic Arjun S. Ravi, who runs the webzine Indiecision, has
tracked almost two decades of India’s music scene, and is
finally satisfied with what he sees. The scenario has changed
phenomenally, he says “from the days, the term ‘music festival’
meant a one-time event with more than two artists on the bill,
a willing club and cheap drinks to becoming associated with
multi-stage-multi-day events.”
Festivals that have shone through it all with their
gigantic organisational successes have been the Bacardi NH7
Weekender and the Sunburn Festival. On a smaller yet, equally
The Rajasthan
International Folk
Festival (RIFF) held
in Jodhpur is the
only experimental
folk music festival
that provides a
platform to folk
musicians of India
and abroad
18
The Leela Magazine – Summer 2013
successful scale are the Jodhpur Rajasthan International Folk
Festival (RIFF), the Delhi Jazz Festival held at Nehru Park,
Shubha Mudgal’s Baajaa Gaajaa in Pune and Fireflies in
Bengaluru. These have attracted musicphilles from all over
the world. Even conferences like THINK, Jaipur Literature
Festival and INK regularly feature big names in folk, sufi
and Hindustani classical music. Only Much Louder’s (OML)
summer 2013 – The Leela Magazine
19
Left: Lead vocalist Ankur Tewari of Ankur and the Ghalat Family performing at Sulafest
Right: Artistes perform at the Tansen Music Festival held in Gwalior every year to honour legendary classical musician, Tansen
20
highly successful NH7 Weekender and Percept’s Sunburn have
and Delhi and Colombo, in the next few months. Headlined
drastically upped the ante for smoothly run and skillfully
with bigwigs like Axwell and Above & Beyond, the other
executed festivals. “Multiple players, long term planning and
names Sunburners have bounced to include Gareth Emery,
better curators and audiences”, says OML’s CEO Vijay Nair.
Axwell, Markus Schulz, Pete Tong, Infected Mushroom, GMS
These have injected a revitalised vigour into the shrooming
and Skazi Live. Deeply rooted in Goa trance, expect magnificent
festival scene.
pyrotechnics and trippy visuals from Delhi boys’ BLOT.
In their third year running, OML’s annual “happy people”
“People now expect all the things that come together to
making shindig, the Bacardi NH7 Weekender committed what
make a “music festival” — big line-ups, multiple stages,
was called music festival-goer’s blasphemy. Having skillfully
assorted non-musical activities, (film tents, food courts),
proven their festival organisation mettle in two different
etc.,” adds Ravi. The music industry’s newest bedfellows,
maidans in Pune, they took India’s “happiest” festival to Delhi
the big sponsors like Bacardi, Dewars, Smirnoff, Percept,
and Bengaluru. The brainchild of festival organising wizards
Micromax and Nokia, have also made this fairy tale list
Vijay Nair, Dhruv Jagasia and Girish ‘Bobby’ Talwar, crowds of
of expectations possible. Having for so long fêted only
20,000 plus people have made their way each time to the three
Bollywood and cricket, “big brands have woken up to a large
cities, to work their way across stages listening to line-ups
demographic of the youth that’s finding Bollywood crass”,
including everything from the coolest to the cult-est, in punk,
says musician and screenwriter Ankur Tewari, the frontman/
metal and EDM to folk rock, dubstep and acoustic. Ending
lyricist of indie-rock band, Ankur and The Ghalat Family.
with the usual send-off with a big headlining act ranging from
It helps, of course, that surrogate-advertising laws ensure
Imogen Heap and Asian Dub Foundation to Megadeth and
this is the only (and probably coolest) way alcohol brands
Foreign Beggars.
can advertise.
On the other hand, noisy, dusty, adrenalin pumping and
Menwhopause’s bass guitarist Anup Kutty, isn’t being
packed with over 100,000 people, Sunburn’s sexy beats are the
hyperbolic when he says, “the greatest boon to the music
wet dream of any psychedelic, house and EDM junkie. With
industry has been the ban on alcohol advertising”. Finding
dance music evangelist Nikhil Chinapa at the forefront, now in
a music festival to append to their name gives them much
its sixth year, Sunburn kicked off in 2007 on Goa’s Candolim
more mileage, than any soda bottle or music CD compilation
beach as a three day festival. It has, this year, also taken the
could have. Yet, as much as it eases the way monetarily,
gigs in a smaller fashion, to Mumbai (held earlier this year)
some organisers like Kutty, who has tied up with the
An enthralling performance at the NH7 Weekender Indie music festival
Whether it is large festivals or shorter clubs, pub
tours/gigs, new bands have opportunities to be
discovered, old bands get new platforms to play at,
and music fans have whatever music they crave for
Arunachal Pradesh tourism board, for the north east’s first
Either way, whether it is large festivals or shorter clubs, pub
big mainstream music festival Ziro, in the picturesque,
tours/ gigs, new bands have opportunities to be discovered,
virginal Arunachal Pradesh or Happily Unmarried’s (a
old bands get new platforms to play at, and music fans have
Delhi-based
whatever music they crave — indie rock, folk, drum & bass,
product
design
brand)
bijou-sized
Music
in Hills, now in their eighth year, avoid sponsors like a
content-diluting plague.
22
reggae, pop, EDM, et al.
What
then,
is
the
winning
ingredient
for
a
When the Menwhopause boys travelled to the untouched
festival? In this festival renaissance, a shindig is held
Arunachal Pradesh in 2011, one thing hit them — the lack of
for music, design, debate, films, literature or art almost
exchange of music between there and the rest of the country.
every fortnight in India. Some fade into the background,
That then, became their first priority. Ziro Festival of Music
some fizzle out like last year’s Metallica fiasco and other’s
saw the coming together of local bands and some of the
go onto become India’s Glastonbury. Pune’s carnivalesque
biggest names from across the country for what was touted
NH7 made a strong case for the Glaston crown, when
as north-east’s first music festival, in this inaccessible hill
organiser Nair said his only aim was to have a festival of
station. Sans any big sponsors, except the Arunachal Pradesh
happy, shiny people.
Tourism and local businesses, the Apatani tribals put up food
Or, maybe, it’s as simple as singer Ankur Tewari puts it, a
stalls (essentially many kinds of meats) accompanied by many
festival only needs 50 grams of bands and 10 litres of beer, a
kegs of rice beer.
tinge of location and a dash of love.
Adventure
Skiing in alpine
Y
ou pause. In those few seconds you
Associations des Guides de Montagne),
hear: total silence. A moment later — or
without whom adventurous skiing
Chamonix
maybe an age — there is the ploosh of
would be impossible, Ski Weekend
snow, descending from a tree, gently
organises luxury breaks that afford the
onto snow.
maximum skiing with the least possible
Naomi Price goes skiing in the
glorious Chamonix valley and
the neighbouring resort of
Courmayeur and comes back
to share the chilling thrill
of the mountain there are the powder
arrangements
bowls, pristine after a fall of snow,
in on a private jet, hiring skis, skiing
secrets jealously guarded by the first
a couple of pitches and then flying
to make their primal mark with the
back again.
And then, you ski off: into the
trees, and quickly through the woods,
ducking
as in: “The guys are on the plane,
absorbing
they’ll be there in an hour, can you
undulations. Higher up, over the back
sort this out?” Other clients may make
over
branches,
compressions,
signature of perfect copper plate Ss to
which all off-piste skiers aspire.
Alps.
valley,
The
glorious
dominated
by
the
Chamonix
Ski Weekend is headed by Gavin
background of mountain exploration
(Kashmir,
Greenland,
Sweden,
for
16,000-
example). He has lived so long in
Chamonix that he has acquired a Gallic
most exhilarating skiing and climbing
carapace as doughty and deadpan as
experience in the world. Chamonix is
that of his guides.
There are a small number of ski
One such guide is Yves Detry,
avalanche
coach
and
Himalaya
companies who specialise in making
expedition leader, still feted since 1979
such experiences accessible. The most
when he opened the 55o notorious north
prominent
face of the Aiguille du Midi. He has never
of
these,
Ski
Weekend,
was the first English ski business to
arriving
foot Mont Blanc, is the heart of the
only an hour and a half from Geneva.
24
themselves,
Foster, an Englishman with a formidable
This is the majestic splendour of
the
had to buy a drink in town since.
have set up in Chamonix 27 years
A typical day with a Ski Weekend
ago. In conjunction with top UIAGM
guide might include a descent off the
guides
back of the Argentiere (grave accent
(Union
Internationale
des
CORBIS
A skier jumping off a
crevasse in the Alps
They cater to trips at short notice,
bouncing
up
under
logistical fuss.
25
CORBIS
SHUTTERSTOCK
SHUTTERSTOCK
Top: A climber watching the top of Mont Blanc from a peak over Courmayeur
Above: (Left to right) Heli-skiing at Mount Blanc; A skier skiing down through powder snow on a giant cascade
here) glacier at the Pointe de Vue on the
Weekend
runs
instruction
Grands Montets (2,400 vertical metres)
programmes:
into some large powder bowls and a
Terrains (Ski the Whole Mountain in all
long itinerary from top to bottom, then
conditions) and Belle Traces for the fine-
a run down the north-east face of the
tuning of off-piste technique.
Glacier des Rognons, via intermittent
Off-piste
Toutes
groups
Neiges
are
Tous
transport is on permanent call to pick
up and deliver from the bottom of
the mountain.
Ski Weekend’s own Chalet Jumelles
is a traditionally-built, intimate retreat
carefully
with a vast beam cut from a whole tree
forays into neighbouring nations under
assembled with no more than six
running the entire length of the chalet
the off-piste ropes that demarcate the
of a compatible standard in each.
rafters and a roaring fire encased in
border between France and Switzerland.
On-piste tuition is also available by
cleanly modern glass box. Bedrooms
qualified instructors.
and suites are warmly clad in wood
Though a descent down an icy
26
Ski
40-degree couloir is to the guide but a
With five distinct ski areas with
while bathrooms feature huge sweeping
jolly little trundle before lunch, they
a total of 155 km of piste (all on the
abstract-shaped washbasins made of
generally recognise that not everyone
same lift pass), the resort is by its
larch by a local craftsman. Chalet hosts
may see it like that.
nature,
and chefs deliver a high level of cuisine.
fragmentary;
Ski
Weekend
CORBIS
People take time off from skiing to enjoy the local cuisine at a side street in Aosta Valley
There are several Michelin-starred and
Courmayeur - the chic side
other top restaurants in town.
Twenty
minutes
from
Mont Blanc to one, Monte Bianco to
Chamonix
the other.
Unlike many ski resorts, Chamonix
through the Mont Blanc tunnel into the
Inhabitants of either of the towns
is a proper town in its own right,
Aosta valley lies the neighbouring resort
may be inflamed into an access of
much of it remaining the unchanged
of Courmayeur, whose temperament
righteous sibling rivalry by the gentle
image of the art-deco ski posters that
is so different from her sibling that we
reminder that one resort is a little bit
commemorate its history: stylish, racy
marvel that they can have emerged from
better than the other. Yet both siblings
and consummately French.
the same domineering elemental mother:
are equally talented.
Summer slopes
We list some of the best skiing destinations between June and
September, when it’s summer in the Northern Hemisphere
Argentina: It has about 14 ski resorts dotted along the Andes with
three major ski regions: the ski resorts near Mendoza; the Lakes District
and Patagonia ski areas in the south; and Ushuaia, way down south. Las
Leñas, a 90-minute flight from Buenos Aires, is renowned for its steep
terrain and adrenalin pumping double-black diamond chutes. The
annual snowfall at Las Leñas is around 6 metres (250 inches) and the
powder is known to be pretty good. Cat skiing and cat boarding is also
available from Las Leñas. The Lake District is in the north of Patagonia
with Bariloche being a common gateway
to the ski resorts in this area.
Chile: Some of the best skiing on the
continent, with light powder snow, is in
this region. Portillo, a two hours drive from
Santiago, offers an old-school ski-resort
experience. The treeless Portillo ski terrain
is a combination of long groomed runs and
big mountain skiing. There are trails for all
ability levels, but it caters particularly well
to the advanced rider with plenty of steep
28
slopes. Skiing is more popular than snowboarding. For the adventurous,
Ski Arpa has the continent’s only cat-skiing. Valle Nevado, located
67km from Santiago, is yet another ski resort. It has lots of cruisy,
wide-open groomed runs for the intermediate skier and boarder.
There are slopes for beginners, mellow pitched off-piste areas
for advanced riders, and a couple of steeper bowls and chutes to
challenge the experienced rider.
New Zealand: New Zealand ski fields are uncrowded with plenty of
wide-open bowls and gentle slopes for first-time skiers and off-piste
skiing and heli-skiing for the more adventurous. Thousands of skiers
descend every season to the adventure
capital of Queenstown and nearby
Wanaka for the four resorts within a short
distance of each other: the Remarkables,
Coronet Peak, Cardrona and Treble Cone.
New Zealand has two major ski resorts on
the North Island and seven on its South
Island. Mount Ruapehu, New Zealand’s
largest active volcano is also the largest
ski resort in New Zealand.
(Inputs from powderhounds.com)
Courmayeur offers charms that are
not confined to snow sports such as
husky rides and snowshoeing
Courmayeur
chocolate-box
is
the
epitome
Alpine
Fact file
of
Momentum have been running the
prettiness,
Lambert Smith Hampton Ski Challenge
faultlessly chic, without a Gallic shrug
in Courmayeur every year, besides
in sight, and Italian to the tips of its
the City Ski Championships in Crans-
inhabitants’ immaculately Ferragamo-
Montana in March, and a ski festival
shod toes that trot the ancient cobbled
in February.
streets of the Via Roma. Here the ski
Off-piste skiing is a comparatively
instructors of the official ski school
unusual activity amongst Italians, who
are kitted out in Armani jackets and
take the attitude that anyone who snubs
even the snowboarders eschew grunge
their slopes of perfect groomed corduroy
because their mothers have made them
in favour of untameable wilderness
dress nicely.
must be either unhinged or ungrateful.
This is the sort of town where
Indeed police will chase, fine and ban
the number of Cashmere shops is
anyone they find in such terrain without
disproportionate to its size, where
the correct equipment.
the confections of pastry parlours are
mentioned in national guide-books, and
Aosta Valley – the quiet slope
three-year-olds deposited in the local
The Aosta Valley maintains a certain
crèche are escorted to long mountain
reticence about its own charms that
lunches by day-carers.
contrast with Chamonix’s image as the
With its 26 years presence in
the
resort,
Momentum
Ski
is
to
skiers and cliff-droppers. Its off-piste
terrain is consequently little visited.
to Chamonix. Indeed much of the resort’s
Besides
success redounds to the pioneering offices
among the Aosta Valley’s most eminent
of its dynamic director, Amin Momen.
is the fearless Gianni Carbone UIAGM, a
What this specialist company does not
man with no remaining knee ligaments,
know about providing the ultimate
who will skip down a 40o pitch of
tailor-made holiday in this most stylish
gnarly, chopped-up old rubbish as if he
of destinations may be written on the
was just popping to the shops.
30
Courmayeur’s
Celebrated
routes
own
include
guides,
Toula
is
Glacier from 3,600 metres and the
the party break for hard-working,
breathtaking Vallee Blanche, accessed via
hard-playing
Somethings-in-the-City
either side of the Mont Blanc. There are
whose favourite form of downtime is
also many lesser-known and unglaciated
— simply more downhill. Should you
routes with variations such as the Cresta
require a perfectly-swept giant slalom
d’Arp Couloir. The heli-skiing areas
course set to world cup standards with
include stupendous mountains around
at least 25 gates, then Momentum will
Val Veny and descents from the Piccolo
commandeer a whole run, complete
San Bernardo pass at La Thuile and the
with race paddock and hospitality tent.
Rutor glacier down into St Foy. This is
Momentum’s
corporate
forte
Chamonix: Ski Weekend’s Chalet Jumelles
sleeps up to 12 people. Depending on the
time of year, prices vary between £6,000
and £12,000 for four nights. This includes
half-board, transport to and from the resort
and transport in-resort and a variety of ski
hosting options. Individual bookings are
available from £699 per person to include
the above with additional tailor-made
options for guiding.
Contact: 0044 (0) 1392 878353;
skiweekend.com
ultimate hardcore venue for extreme
Courmayeur what Ski Weekend is
back of a lift pass.
Getting there: SWISS flies daily to Geneva
from Mumbai and Delhi and Hong Kong,
with early morning arrivals for all flights.
Swiss operates regular flights every
2-3 hours out of two London airports
(London City and Heathrow, and from
all European capitals. A recently-added
Singapore route is scheduled to
commence in May).
Courmayeur: Prices at the Auberge de la
Maison range from 300 Euros per night
half-board for a Superior Double to 500
Euros for a suite.
Contact: 0039 0165 869811;
aubergemaison.it
Heli-skiing: It costs around 200 Euros
per person per drop but this is only for
extremely strong off-piste skiers as there
are several no-fall zones. guidealpine@
courmayeur.com
Contact: Momentum Ski 0044 (0)207 371
9111; momentumski.com
only for extremely good off-piste skiers
as there are several no-fall zones.
In terms of piste, the resort is small
but perfectly formed, with 70 km of
varied slopes and gradients. There are
four black runs, and another planned
for 2015, and a number of testing pistes
Indian snow fields
which belie their official blue and red
status. There is also a Fun Park with
CORBIS
By Ranee Sahaney
a respectable assortment of serious
jumps (should you wish to get down
with the kids) and an expanse of free
I
ndia’s snow fields are fast becoming
games — a huge draw for professionals
ride
one of the most attractive destinations
and amateurs.
by Swatch.
competition
terrain
sponsored
for the global skiing community. It not
The daring but pretty expensive sport
Momentum, who host roughly one
only has some of the finest ski slopes and
of heli-skiing is on offer as an adventure
small group of corporate skiers a week,
fabulous powders for snowboarding, it’s
sport-cum-cultural experience in the
will also tailor-make individual luxury
also one of the most inexpensive places
stunning environs of Gulmarg and also
breaks of any length, organising flights
to ski and learn this thrilling sport.
Manali surrounds such as Hanuman
and co-ordinating transfers at the drop
The powerful pull of those fabulously
Tibba, Deo Tibba, Rohtang Pass and
of a hat. Besides hosting on-piste clients
pristine Himalayan vistas is an intrinsic
Chandrakhani Pass. In the past couple
around the quietest slopes, they also
ingredient to a hugely rewarding skiing
of years, the number of snowboarding
know the best of Courmayeur’s hidden-
holiday in some of India’s most favoured
tourists has almost doubled. The word
away restaurants.
winter resorts — the alpine highland
being out in the global arena is that some
Momentum’s favourite hotel is the
of Gulmarg and hill station Patnitop in
of the world’s best powders are to be had
Auberge de la Maison, which, though
Jammu and Kashmir, the gorgeous winter
at Gulmarg.
only 20-years-old, incorporates the
playfields of Manali, Kufri, Narkanda
The ski slopes of Gulmarg are accessed
graceful vernacular of the town so
and Rohtang Pass in Himachal and the
by the world’s highest gondola ski lift set
convincingly into its design, with its vast
splendid Himalayan meadows (bugyals)
up by Poma (the world-renowned French
open fire and low beams that it could
of Auli, Dayara Bugyal, Bedini Bugyal
firm) all the way up to the virgin ski
easily pass for one of Courmayeur’s
and Munsiyari in Uttarakhand. From
slopes of Mt. Apharwat. Auli is equipped
traditional buildings.
the snow slopes of Auli, skiers can feast
with both a 500 metre-long chair lift
Unlike many ski resorts which
their eyes on the panoramas of the snowy
and world-class 800 metre long ski lift,
are of limited interest to non-skiers,
Nanda Devi range.
the longest in the country. The ski patrol
teams
rigorous
not confined to snow sports. It has
months for skiing, places like Auli are
training in avalanche rescues and medical
exhilarating husky rides, snowshoeing
ideal even uptil May.
aid by international instructors and
and fifteen minutes away at Pre St.
mountain guides.
Didier, there is also an ancient thermal
While January to March are the best
Skiing in India is run by professional
outfitters, with the state governments
providing excellent support in terms of
world-class facilities, maintenance of
ski slopes and equipment, and in terms
of conducting skiing courses under
professional tutelage. Both Gulmarg and
Auli are the venues of international winter
32
have
undergone
Top: Skiers skin up a hill in Gulmarg, Kashmir
Getting there: Skiing destinations in
Uttarakhand, Himachal Pradesh and Jammu
& Kashmir are easily accessible from Delhi
by air, rail and road.
Accommodation: Stay at The Leela Palace
New Delhi or The Leela Kempinski Gurgaon.
spring which locals use to chill.
Swimming in a series of natural
granite Jacuzzis, snow falling, heat
scintillating on drifts above the water,
while the wooded mountain escarpment
rises all around — why, it’s almost as
good as skiing.
Travel
Home to the world’s best
tea, at the Himalayan
hill station of Darjeeling,
you’re greeted by acres
of tea gardens, a toy
train, colonial bungalows
and British era tea rooms
and bakeries, finds out
Anjana Paresh Parikh
What is this life if, full of care,
We have no time to stand and stare.
No time to stand beneath the boughs
And stare as long as sheep or cows.
No time to see, when woods we pass,
Where squirrels hide their nuts in grass.
No time to see, in broad daylight,
Streams full of stars, like skies at night...
— William Henry Davies
A
desire to step away from the city’s hustle-bustle
and enjoy the simple pleasures of life prompted me to
Queen of the hills
take a trip to Darjeeling, hailed as the ‘Queen of the
hills.’ To be in the lap of snow-clad Himalayas, hear
the gurgling of streams, watch the play of colours at
sunrise, wake up to the smell of fresh Darjeeling tea…
Darjeeling
I
had
enough
reason
to
find
comfort
in
nature’s
bounteous terrain.
Picture perfect
Concrete buildings and chaotic thoroughfares gave way to
British-style wooden bungalows, green mountains cloaked
by tea gardens and giant flowering rhododendron trees
bursting in red pink and white colours against the mighty
mountains, during the two hour long drive from the bustling
city of Siliguri to Darjeeling, West Bengal’s picturesque
hill station.
The land of the muscatel-flavoured tea, revered by
connoisseurs across the globe, Darjeeling is now the cynosure
of the entire nation, thanks to the recent award-winning
Bollywood flick, Barfi, which was shot here.
Winding my way on hairpin bends and braving the chilly
breeze, a 40 minute drive further brings me to Margaret’s
Hope tea estate near Kurseong. I am seeking a cup of pure
Darjeeling tea. Nestled in this beautiful town, Margaret’s Hope
has cast a spell over tea lovers for several years. The intriguing
name has a story behind it, and it dates back to the 1930s.
CORBIS
The tea garden owner, Bagdon, named it after his younger
34
Left: A worker plucking tea leaves at a tea plantation in Darjeeling
35
CORBIS
The Batasia Loop as seen from the heritage steam engine train run by the Darjeeling Himalayan Railway
daughter, Margaret, who was in love with the tea estate and
through the verdant green landscape and a forest full of pine
had died due to an illness when she was travelling to England.
trees, ferns, orchids and lichens.
As I watch the captivating mist-laden clouds and the fog
sailing past from the estate windows, a cup of hot, golden
Ghoom is surreal. This station has attracted several
filmmakers, who have used it as a location in their films.
liquor with a tingling aroma of Darjeeling tea is served. The
I drive past colonial bungalows and quaint little wooden
‘Champagne of Tea,’ as Darjeeling tea is popularly known, has
houses with entrances edged by a vibrant floral display —
the flavour of Muscatel grapes and, I am told, is best had raw,
marigold, gladiolus, magnolias and rhododendrons. Nowhere
without adding milk or sugar.
else, but in Darjeeling, can a traveller enjoy looking at a
As I drive further uphill, I reach Ghoom (the highest
combination of sublime mountain peaks, rows of tea gardens,
railway station in Asia) and get a glimpse of the Darjeeling toy
a British way of life and the natural beauty of a town in just
train chugging along the narrow gauge, huffing and whistling
a couple of hours.
Tea time at The Leela Palace New Delhi
Black tea: Known for its rich
aroma and flavour.
English breakfast: A classical fullbodied breakfast tea blended with
rich, smooth flavour.
Earl Grey: An elegant classic that
incorporates the most flavourful
China tea and first pressed oils
of Bergamot.
Black currant: Rich China black
tea infused with black currants
and blackberry leaves.
Decaf breakfast: Decaf and
elegantly simple from Sri Lanka.
Darjeeling: The delicate aroma
of pristine alpine forests with an
undercurrent of roasting nuts.
Bombay Chai: Spicy, yet wellbalanced, this is a full-bodied
blend of black teas flavoured with
rare Indian spices.
White tea: The purest of tea with
delicate flavours.
White ambrosia: Fine tea infused
with fruits, vanilla and coconut.
Green tea: Known for its health
benefits and flavours.
Oasis: This blend of fine green
tea, spring flowers and citrus
boasts a delicate character.
Jasmine green: The scent of the
night blooming jasmine flower
captured in a light green tea.
African solstice: This rooibos
blend is a light, fruity, antioxidant-rich herbal tisane and
has flavours of vanilla.
Chamomile citron: Shades
of citrus and vanilla add to
the relaxing qualities of this
wonderful tisane.
Ginger and lemongrass: The
lively character of sweet ginger
and lemon smoothens the spirit,
while black pepper heightens the
afterglow.
Flora: Soft fruit notes of hibiscus
flowers and cinnamon sticks, clear
and enticing to the eyes, as they
are to the palate.
Citrus mint: Provides a chill that
warms your spirit and amplifies
the enjoyment of any meal.
Dessert tea: Sweet, decadent and
complete indulgence.
Belgian mint: Cocoa beans and
peppermint perfectly balanced
to create an infusion of tempting
aroma and a finish reminiscent of
chocolate mint cookies.
Raspberry nectar: Succulent as a
basket of hand-picked raspberries,
ripened to perfection.
Orchid vanilla: Blend of fine
black tea, Madagascar vanilla and
coconut slivers.
Vienna cinnamon: Cinnamon
blended with black tea to create a
unique, spicy, yet sweet balance.
Afternoon high tea: Includes a
choice of tea, coffee, cookies,
scones, sandwiches and pastries.
It is priced at `900.
(Price `350 per pot. Government taxes are applicable. No service charge levied)
36
PHOTO COURTESY: CHENDUP LEPCHA
After a day’s rest, I wake up before dawn to catch a
glimpse of Mt. Kanchenjunga from, where else, but the
famous Tiger Hill. I am lucky enough to witness the most
wonderful dawn with golden sun rays falling over pure white
Mt. Kanchenjunga and other Himalayan peaks at around four
in the morning. In Darjeeling, people flock to the Tiger Hill
before dawn to catch this magical moment of nature. As the
Left: A snow covered St. Andrew’s Church in the Mall area
is an old Anglican church built in 1843. It has brass plaques
glorifying some of the oldest residents of Darjeeling
Above: A view of the scenic hill station with snow-capped
Mt. Kanchenjunga in the backdrop
sun rises on the horizon, Mt. Kanchenjunga seems bathed in
shades of gold, orange and yellow, in a spectacular play of
Back in time
light and colours.
Darjeeling derives its name from the Tibetan words, dorje,
Later in the day, while walking down Mall Road starting
from Chowrasta — the most prominent place in this hill
38
which means thunderbolt, and ling, or a place or land.
Darjeeling translates to mean, ‘the land of the thunderbolt.’
town, I notice smiling faces of natives, comprising the
It was during the British Raj that Darjeeling’s temperate
Gorkhas and Tibetans, along with a fair sprinkling of Bengalis
climate led to its development as a hill station. The British
and Marwaris.
residents sought to escape from the summer heat of Calcutta
A sumptuous breakfast at Keventers, comprising its must-
(now Kolkata), the erstwhile capital of the British empire. The
have baked beans, toast with pork, and chicken sausages
development of Darjeeling as a sanatorium and health resort
accompanied by a pot of Darjeeling tea and dollops of the
proceeded briskly. Arthur Campbell, a surgeon with the East
scenic beauty, reminds me of singer Jimi Hendrix’s words,
India Company, and Lieutenant Robert Napier, were responsible
“We have time, there’s no big rush.”
for such a development.
You can also stop by at the colonial, two-storied building,
It is home to Tenzing Norgay, also known as Sherpa
Glenary’s restaurant, famous for its scrumptious pastries,
Tenzing, the first man to successfully climb the world’s highest
cakes and, of course, tea.
mountain peak, Mt. Everest, with Edmund Hillary in 1953.
A train ride through the clouds
The Darjeeling Himalayan Railway, a UNESCO designated
World Heritage Site, runs a toy train that leaves the Darjeeling
railway station at around 8:30 am daily. There are regular two
hour joy rides offered by the Darjeeling Himalayan Railways
on its toy trains, for those who miss out on the seven and a
half hour long journey from New Jalpaiguri to Darjeeling.
The narrow gauge train with steam
engine makes a round trip to Ghoom
via Batasia. People can hop in and
out of the moving train. On the way
to Ghoom, the train passes through
Batasia Loop, which has a memorial
with an elevation ranging from 3,200 ft near the Burra
Bungalow (original planter’s bungalow) and going down to
800 ft where the Rungeet and Rung Dung rivers flow through
the estate. It straddles a 1,000 acres forest area, known as
Simbong. The area under tea cultivation is about 390 acres.
The bio-organic tea garden produces mainly Darjeeling green
tea. The two plush bungalows and four suite rooms offer
The narrow gauge train with steam engine makes a round
sweeping views of the mountains.
trip to Ghoom via Batasia. People can hop in and out of the
especially the Tibetan wolf, snow leopard and the red panda),
Apart from taking care of your food and stay, Glenburn
moving train.
the Ropeway, the Lebong Race Course, the Tibetan Refugee Self
offers a tour of its tea gardens, organises customised hikes like
Help Centre and the Natural History Museum that displays
the Orange Orchard walk, the River Rung Dung walk, a day
insects, birds and animals of the region.
trip to Darjeeling or Kalimpong, fishing on river Rungeet, and
On the way to Ghoom, the train passes through the
Batasia Loop, which has a memorial dedicated to the brave
Gorkha soldiers. From here, the spectacular view of Darjeeling
Downtown or Chowk Baazar is colourful and vibrant.
town and Mt. Kanchenjunga is simply unforgettable. It
After you buy tea (Nathmulls at Chowrasta is your best bet),
The three hour tea garden tour is an eye opener. Packed
reminds me of author Mark Twain’s words, who, on visiting
thangkas (painting on silk depicting a Buddhist deity) and
with information on the history of the area, its flora and
the Himalayan town in 1896 wrote, “The one land that all
souvenirs, don’t forget to add the local hard cheese or chhurpi
fauna and, of course, on Darjeeling tea, the estate manager
men desire to see, and having seen once — by even a glimpse,
to your shopping basket. Made of yak milk and roasted in
takes you through the entire process of tea making — from
would not give that glimpse for the shows of the rest of the
smoke, it has a peculiar, inexplicable taste and is extremely
the plucking of the leaves, drying, rolling, to the final sorting
world combined.”
hard. Not for those who have tooth problems, this cheese
and packaging. A tea tasting session follows, where you can
needs to be kept in the mouth to moisten it, to let parts of it
discover the aroma, flavours and distinct quality of the first
soften, and then chew it like gum.
flush, second flush, and the different types of Darjeeling tea
the popular seven points. My first stop, the Japanese Temple
and Peace Pagoda, built during the World War I. The serene
and tranquil atmosphere and the drum beats vibrating
Tea garden tour
through the walls of the temple have a calming effect and
I visit Glenburn Tea Estate, located 15 miles away from
touch a chord within. The other points include the Himalayan
Darjeeling. Perched on the side of a hill facing Mt. Kanchenjunga,
Mountaineering
Himalayan
Glenburn is a colonial tea estate and an upscale one to boot.
Zoological Park (famous for breeding animals in captivity,
Sprawled over 1,600 acres, the entire estate is on a hill slope
Institute,
Padmaja
Naidu
Tourists enjoy walking past the
circular Darjeeling Mall Road
covered with colourful flowers
On my way back to town, I complete my tour by visiting
even river rafting.
and is much like a wine tasting session.
I can now proudly say, I know my Darjeeling.
The route: Bagdogra is the nearest airport to Darjeeling and
it takes three and a half hours to reach the town. Bagdogra is
well-connected with cities like Delhi and Kolkata.
Tea menu at The Leela Palace Udaipur
Darjeeling: The ‘Champagne’
of teas. The tippy orthodox leaf
produces light amber liquor with
a heady aroma of lemony fruit
and green grapes and the highest
notes of muscatel.
English Breakfast: This tea is a
traditional blend of select teas
originating from Assam, Ceylon
and Kenya. A full bodied, strong
tea with an aroma of ripe fruits
with pungent overtones.
Masala Chai: A blend of premium
black tea with original pieces,
Indian sub continental spices and
herbs. It is full-bodied,aromatic
with a warm aftertaste of spices.
Earl Grey: Named after the
popular politician, the 2nd Earl
Grey, who popularised the tea
after a visit to China. It is a full
bodied tea with a distinct natural
bergamot flavour.
Jasmine Blossom: This popular
green tea is scented with rich
fragrant night-flowering jasmine.
The flowers are thickly layered
on top of fine quality green tea,
which has been stored since
spring, waiting for summer
when jasmine blooms and is
most fragrant. The process is
repeated until the tea is imbued
with fragrance.
Green Sencha: Green sencha
comes from the early growth of
the tea bushes; the young leaves
are carefully plucked and then
subjected to very hot steam to
generate the unique taste. The
liquor has a clear, light yellow
green hue, good body and
delicious rice flavours.
Genmaicha: A blend of Sencha
green tea and popped rice
kernels. It was originally made
by poor peasants in Japan who
wanted their tea to last longer;
the nutty flavour of the brew is
unique and easily recognisable.
Peppermint: The gentle herbal
aroma of the peppermint
leaves is transformed on
infusion. Almost spicy when
first sipped, the pre-dominant
flavour sensation is that of a
penetratingly cool and clear
mint with a refreshingly clean
aftertaste.
Ginger Lemon: An unusual yet
refreshing blend of ginger, lemon
grass, lemon peel, peppermint
and liquorice root, gives us a
wonderful caffeine-free infusion.
Combined citrus and ginger
flavours give way to a tingly
ginger aftertaste.
Rosehip & Hibiscus: The blend of
Rosehip, the fruits of a wild dog
rose and hibiscus yield a rich red
cup, which is sharp and tangy on
the palate. Hibiscus is known for
its flowering beauty, which have
been used for centuries in Hindu,
Chinese and Western herbalism.
Tulsi Mint: Tulsi provides an
aromatic and delicious taste in
herbal infusions. Tulsi mint is a
bright cup with a sweet initial
flavour and a piquant aftertaste
of aloe vera and spearmint
making it a refreshing and
invigorating herbal infusion to be
relished any time of the day.
Chamomile: Like all other herbal
infusions, chamomile is 100 per
cent caffeine-free. The infused
flowers have a heady aroma of
hay and floral, grassy flavour. The
taste of sun-baked apples carries
through to a gentle finish.
Rooibos Strawberry Honey:
Grown only in South Africa,
Rooibos is the Dutch word
for ‘red bush’ and this shrub
produces a refreshing caffeine
free bright russet liquor.
Silver Needle: Silver needle is
a rare white tea, made from the
unfurled leaf buds or “tips” of
the tea bush. It is produced each
spring in the Fujian province.
(All varieties are priced at `275 per pot. Government taxes are applicable)
40
41
Literary
B
anker-turned-writer, Amish Tripathi’s Shiva Trilogy
is based on the premise that Hindu gods were not mythical
beings but creatures in flesh and blood who achieved godhood
through their karma, i.e. their deeds. This take on Indian myths
and the ancient Indian culture makes them seem relevant to
modern-day readers.
Amish’s (he doesn’t use his surname in his books) first
book, The Immortals of Meluha’s film right has been acquired by
noted Indian filmmaker Karan Johar. It is likely to star famous
actor Hrithik Roshan as Lord Shiva. The second novel, The Secret
of the Nagas, has crossed a print run of a million copies. The
latest one, The Oath of the Vayuputras, with its sky rocketing
sales has prompted its publisher, Westland Press, to pay an
advance amount of `5 crore ($1 million approximately) for
Author Amish Tripathi’s
latest book and his
concluding one in the
Shiva Trilogy, The Oath of
The Vayuputras, sold five
lakh copies within a day of
release in February this year.
In a tête-à-tête, he tells us
what fascinates him about
Lord Shiva and shares his
views on Indian mythology
the south Asian rights for the next series that he would pen. It
Voice of
Shiva
is touted as the biggest advance paid to an Indian author by a
home grown publishing firm. Amish confesses that he has no
By Sujata Dugar
idea regarding the subject for his next novel.
and shaped our thought process, and have always been an
What made you choose Lord Shiva as the subject to
integral part of our culture for centuries. However, in the last
base your trilogy on?
200-300 years, our subjugation as a colony, saw our society’s
I find Lord Shiva an exciting god to write about. He exudes
morale taking a beating and our confidence levels were so low
immense passion, has a seductive charm and is a democratic
that we forgot to appreciate our own culture and tradition. We
god — by this I mean, he doesn’t differentiate between people
were made to feel inferior and unworthy. However, in the last
as being high or low born, treats all his devotees as one, treats
few decades, India has emerged as a strong economic power.
his wife as an equal and in the traditional form you will
The confidence is back and this finds reflection in the way we
always see his consort Parvati sitting next to him as an equal,
perceive things. Our entrepreneurial skills and our rebellious
and not below or on a lower pedestal. He never ‘punishes’ his
attitude are its upshot. We are regaining our confidence, and
wife when she opposes him. On the contrary, he is always
our myths are seeing a revival and finding expression through
supportive of anything she says or does. He is a fierce warrior,
these contemporary interpretations.
a passionate lover, a devoted husband, the finest intellectual,
a brilliant dancer, has dreadlocks, and has a “cool persona” as
Name some of the mythological books that are also
one would state in modern-day terminology. I began writing
your favourite?
the book as a philosophical treatise on the nature of evil. It
I am a voracious reader and read all kinds of books on
got converted into an adventure to convey that philosophy.
mythology, philosophy and history. In the non-fiction
It then struck me that if I were writing an adventure story to
category, I enjoyed reading Diana L. Eck’s India: A Sacred
convey that philosophy, then who better to be the hero, than
Geography and End of Faith written by Sam Harris.
the destroyer of evil himself — Lord Shiva.
The movie right of your first book in the trilogy, The
42
There has been a surge in mythological books in the last
Immortals of Meluha, has been bought by director Karan
few years. What would you attribute this to?
Johar. Have you been approached by anyone else from
Yes, it is true that in the recent past we have witnessed a surge
the Indian film industry for the film rights of the sequels?
in the number of books re-interpreting mythological tales.
Karan Johar has bought the movie rights for The Immortals
It is because, we, as a country, have had a rich tradition of
Of Meluha and he has the option to use the sequels for
myths. They were a part of our growing years, influenced
film adaptation.
43
What is your next
I have grown up reading
series? Will it be based
a lot of mythological
on Indian mythology
tales
and history as the
books, and was brought
earlier trilogy?
up in an environment
I have a few ideas in mind
where they were part of
but nothing definite as
our learning experience.
of now. However, it will
I
certainly be within the
books. However, I don’t
domain of mythology,
make an attempt to
history and philosophy.
sit down and research
These are subjects that
on a particular subject
interest me and I am
while writing, as that
passionate about.
tends to distract me
read
from
Do
you
believe
in
and
all
the
religious
kinds
of
storyline.
So, for me, research
religion? Are you a religious person and follow the
and writing are two completely different phases. I learn
rituals associated with it?
a lot by interacting with people and visiting different
I was born in a very religious and liberal Hindu family.
cultures. For instance, in the book, The Secret of the Nagas, I
My siblings and I learnt about our religion, myths and
have described the gates of Branga. The inspiration came
philosophies during our growing years. We were never forced
from something I had learnt on a trip to Greece many
to believe everything that was told to us. Being part of a liberal
years ago.
family, we were allowed, in fact encouraged, to ask questions
made columnist Anil Dharker term the book launch as
video to hold the reader’s interest. Bound versions of the first
a “literary phenomenon.” What are the promotional
chapter of the novel were introduced across city bookstores. I
and challenge things which didn’t make sense. The exchange
Each of your book has seen an unconventional
activities you have undertaken for each of your book?
also approached well-known personalities like Anil Dharker
of thoughts and healthy discussion helped us gain a better
promotional campaign. In fact, the latest novel’s release
Do you feel such strategies ensure a book’s success?
and adman Prahlad Kakkar to launch the book.
understanding of the subject. In fact, a lot of concepts that I
If any creative guy says that he knows the pulse of his
For my second novel, The Secret of the Nagas, I roped in
had grown up hearing have been clarified on re-reading those
reader or audience, he is surely far removed from reality.
Think WhyNot, a strategic creative agency, for the marketing
You can never predict or have a set formula for the success
of the book. Two trailers, similar to high quality film trailers,
of a book, a film or any creative work. You cannot write
were shown alongside the Shahrukh Khan starrer, Ra.One, in
a book after doing market research and then deciding on
all multiplexes. The book was released by actor Vivek Oberoi.
religious books. I am religious by nature and I feel it gives you
an inner strength and faith in the larger scheme of things.
As mentioned in your books, do you believe in the
concept that gods were first human beings?
There are various concepts in Indic religions about god. The
first is the nirgun, nirakar god, who is the formless Absolute.
The second is the aakaar god, where god has taken a form
such as that of Lord Shiva, Lord Vishnu or Lord Brahma.
The third is where god takes an avatar, such as Lord Ram or
Lord Krishna. There is a fourth concept of god, where a man
discovers the god within — Aham Brahmasmi. I find this last
concept very inspiring. That is what I’ve tried to build up in
my books through the concept of Har Har Mahadev i.e. all of
us are Mahadevs (gods).
What kind of research do you do before you set out to
write these mythological tales?
44
As a writer, you need to be honest with yourself,
your idea, and the whole process of writing the book
Shiva Trilogy | Cover to cover
Rashmi Pusalkar designed the covers of all the three novels in
the Shiva trilogy as per Tripathi’s specifications.
In the first book, The Immortals of Meluha, she portrayed
the back profile of Shiva, who is standing in front of a huge
lake. The challenge was to show Shiva in human form, in flesh
and blood and as a vulnerable individual. She showed the
back, because Indian gods are never seen with their backs
in sight. He has battle scars and yet a sculpted physique.
The scenery behind Shiva’s image is of Mount Kailash and
Mansarovar Lake.
In The Secret of the Nagas, Lord Shiva is seen holding a
snake and looking at the river banks near the city of Kashi.
On the cover of The Oath of the Vayuputras, you’ll see
Shiva as the wielder of Pinaka, the legendary bow of the god
according to mythology, and behind him is a burning bush.
The colour scheme applied on the cover changes from title
to title. The dull hue on The Immortals of Meluha gives way to
brighter shades in The Oath of the Vayuputras, signifying the
triumph of good over evil.
its subject. As a writer, you need to be honest with yourself,
For my third book, The Oath of the Vayuputras, we leveraged
your idea, and the whole process of writing the book. But, once
on the Indian passion for music. A music album called
you’ve completed writing it, it is fair and sensible to be pragmatic
Vayuputras, an original soundtrack based on the Shiva Trilogy
and promote it to the best of your ability so that you can reach
books, was released. It has 10 original songs sung by artists
out to a larger audience. If a good product (in this case a book)
like Sonu Nigam, Taufiq Qureshi, Palash Sen and Bickram
is not promoted well, it is surely going to fail in terms of
Ghosh, among others.
financial success.
We also launched a high quality music video which
We have adopted certain marketing tools to reach out to
is being telecast through popular television channels and
a wider audience. For the first novel, The Immortals of Meluha
across all social media platforms. The music video very
(it was initially rejected by over 20 publishing houses), we
broadly communicates the journey of the three books of
distributed the first chapter of the book as a free sampler and
the Shiva Trilogy in a five minute span. I’ve been told that
as free digital downloads from my website, to generate interest
this was the first time ever that an original soundtrack was
among readers. With the help of musician Taufiq Qureshi, we
made for a book’s series. For the book launch, film director
launched a live action trailer film on YouTube and built an
Shekhar Kapur, actress Kajol, and columnist Anil Dharker
online community on Facebook and Twitter surrounding the
were invited.
45
Tribute
Ode to
Indian
Cinema
By Udita Jhunjhunwala
T
Four contemporary Indian filmmakers
come together to create Bombay Talkies,
an anthology film that weaves in four
short films directed by them, to celebrate
Indian cinema’s centenary year
The idea
Bollywood demigods like Amitabh Bachchan. Every Sunday,
his year, May 3 marks 100 years since that historic day
Co-producer Ashi Dua of Flying Unicorn Entertainment,
fans from all around the world gather outside his Mumbai
when Raja Harishchandra became the first full-length Hindi
who conceptualised Bombay Talkies before partnering with
home, for a glimpse of their screen idol. Kashyap first wrote
language feature film to be released. To commemorate the
Viacom 18, said, “For this momentous occasion we wanted
a script based on this in 1999. He wished to get Bachchan
centenary of Indian cinema, four contemporary Indian
to do something with archival value. The concept was to
to feature in it, but circumstances willed otherwise. It took
filmmakers, with diverse styles and distinct voices, have come
bring together brilliant but dramatically different filmmakers
100 years of cinema and a concept called Bombay Talkies for
together under the unifying title, Bombay Talkies. Anurag
of our age and watch them create their own interpretation
Kashyap to make a film on what he sees as “fandom, impact
Kashyap, Dibakar Banerjee, Karan Johar and Zoya Akhtar
of a single theme — exploring their love for cinema.”
of cinema and its biggest phenomenon (Bachchan)”. Kashyap
have helmed four short films that will together form a two-
Music by Amit Trivedi will bind the disparate works.
added, “My film is a coming of age journey via what touches
our lives and sometimes shapes it. It’s a sweet/funny story
hour long feature film. The four fictional shorts (each under
46
30 minutes in length) in this portmanteau, look at cinema and
The stories
of a fan who thinks he has a right over his star, and of the
its impact on everyday life.
Anurag Kashyap’s film encapsulates the ‘fandom’ surrounding
security guards, who are celebrities in their own right because
47
they guard that house. It’s my
is the first time he has directed
tribute to the cinema I grew up on
a short) and the pre-assigned
and the dreams they created.”
budget. “This is the first time in
Dibakar Banerjee’s contribution
my 15 year career that I have
to this compendium is based
shot on Mumbai’s streets on such
on Satyajit Ray’s short story,
a controlled budget,” he said. His
Potol Babu Film Star. It’s about a
film features Bollywood actors
common man’s brush with fame.
Rani Mukherjee, Randeep Hooda
“I have taken a contemporary
and Saqib Saleem. “It’s about a
Mumbai
this
husband and wife and a young lad
intimate, moving, human story,
who turns their life upside down.
which is unlike anything I have
Cinema’s connection to the story
done so far,” said Banerjee. His
is through music. The content is
short is about a man searching
interpersonal relationships, but
for a story. “In a society where
old Hindi film music forms the
people’s dreams remain unfulfilled,
spine of the emotions,” he added.
cinema comes closest to fulfilling
Zoya Akhtar’s film explores
setting
to
tell
all those dreams,” he explained.
the power of stars as well as
The two biggest challenges faced
the reach, impact and magic
by Karan Johar while directing his
of movies in India. Says she,
short film were the length (this
“Mine is about a little boy
Past Forward 100 Years
Ten films recommended
by the Bombay Talkies
filmmakers to bring you
up to speed with the best
of Indian cinema
1. Pyaasa
2. Kaagaz Ke Phool
3. Do Bigha Zameen
4. Awaara
5. Teesri Manzil
6. Sholay
7. Arth
8. Parinda
9. Dilwale Dulhania
Le Jayenge
10. Lagaan
Dilwale Dulhania Le Jayenge
Awaara
48
Teesri Manzil
Pyaasa
Then and now
While the four featured filmmakers agree that cinema has
made great technical progress in the last century, they concur
that somewhere along the way, between the 70s and the
present, a story-telling tradition has been lost. Says Kashyap,
“A 100 years ago there was struggle, excitement, passion and
a sense of discovery. Now, we have lost some of that joy of
discovery, but the excitement, struggle and passion remain.
There are so many movies now that the feeling can’t be the
same. Earlier, every film was special, seeing images moving
was a high in itself. Then images found a voice. The voice went
Dolby and now the image has gone 3D.”
The second generation of a film making family, Johar is,
“passionate about my profession and about Hindi cinema. I
am excited about being a part of the industry, but I believe the
Rani Mukherjee stars in the Karan Johar
directed short film in Bombay Talkies
films of the 40s and 50s matter the most — the films of Guru
Dutt, Bimal Roy, K. Asif and Raj Kapoor, to name a few.”
who is not really understood by the adults in his life. It’s
Adds Akhtar, “In the past, films and their stories were
about his strange relationship with Katrina Kaif, who is
pegged in folklore or had social relevance to that time, but
like a fairy godmother to him. The film is about dreams.”
then cinema went up in the air and didn’t define any strata of
Ranvir Shorey also stars along with young actors Naman
society. However, I think it’s getting its groove back and it’s
and Khushi.
fantastic that I am here in its 100th year.”
Must-read books on Bollywood
Guru Dutt:
A Life in Cinema
Writer Nasreen
Munni Kabir looks at
the life and work of
the legendary actor
and his classic films
including Pyaasa,
Kaagaz Ke Phool and
Sahib Bibi Aur Ghulam.
50
Sholay: The Making
Of A Classic
Written by Anupama
Chopra, it is a
breezy read on the
making of one of
the greatest Indian
movies of all time. It
offers an insight into
the film’s production.
Cinema Modern:
The Navketan Story
Written by Sidharth
Bhatia, it is a detailed
record of the
production company
behind successful films
like Taxi Driver, Hare
Rama Hare Krishna
and Guide.
Bollywood’s Top 20:
Superstars of Indian
Cinema
Compiled by Bhaichand
Patel, it is a collection
of essays celebrating
Bollywood’s biggest screen
icons like Ashok Kumar,
Dilip Kumar, Amitabh
Bachchan, among others.
Bollywood: Popular
Indian Cinema
Edited by Lalit Mohan
Joshi, it has essays by
stalwarts like Gulzar
and Shyam Benegal,
besides others. An
ultimate guide on the
Hindi film industry, it
has rare images too.
Photo Essay
The castle city of Hirosaki is
an ideal place to soak in the
Japanese fervour around cherry
blossoms (sakura), reports
Lalit Sultan Farzdan
Flushing Pink
F
or the Japanese, the most striking beauty is that which is
the most transient. Something short-lived has a special tragic
quality, which gives it an ethereal appeal. Not to say that you
need to brood on a velvety carpet of fallen buds under the
canopy of lush white and pink flowers to really appreciate the
cultural symbol that has impressed so many foreign travellers
for centuries — the cherry blossoms. Starting as early as
January in Okinawa, to April or later in Hokkaido in the
north, a mesmerising burst of colours invades the countryside
with the orchards rendering the air a festive fervour. And there
is no better place on the archipelago to see this spectacle than
the city of Hirosaki, which is also known for its apples besides
the famous Hirayama-style castle.
Located in the Aomori prefecture towards the north of the
island of Honshu, the castle of Hirosaki was initially built in the
17th century and is regularly listed among the most famous
historical structures of Japan. Its donjon (fortified main tower
of a castle) was reconstructed in the 19th century, and all
of the outer walls and the structures surrounding the castle
A bird sits atop a
blooming cherry blossom
52
CORBIS
are national heritage monuments. What is most fascinating
however is when, during the Sakura Matsuri (Cherry Blossom
Festival), which regularly coincides with the Japanese Golden
53
Fumiaki Takano
For details, log on to: tmf.jp
Above: Pink cherry blossoms line the banks of a lake
Below: Blossoms line the pathway in Shinjuku Gyoen National Garden in Tokyo
Facing page: Beautiful cherry blossom blooms viewed against the snow-capped Mount Fuji
Week (end-April to early May and comprising numerous
holidays), lots of families arrive to spend a Hanami (meditative
picnic) under the magnificent blooms in the gardens of the
castle. The smell of grilled meat and Sake (rice beer) fills the air
as children waddle in ankle-thick mounds of flowers or choose
their favourite ones from among a selection of 2,600 cherry
trees, first planted in 1903.
Equally impressive are the blossoms at Himeji Castle, widely
considered Japan’s most spectacular castle. Unlike many other
Japanese castles, Himeji Castle was never destroyed in wars,
earthquakes or fires, and survives in its original form. It is
both a national treasure and a World Heritage Site declared
by UNESCO.
The blossoms at once symbolise the coming of the spring,
and the colossal circularity of things, principles which might
have something to do with the Buddhist heritage of this
island nation.
Latest archaeological research has, in fact, revealed that
there might have been an ancient Shinto shrine around the
edifice of the castle. Religion thus blends casually with good life,
and people venerate their cultural past as much as they adore
the natural beauty and its awe-inspiring splendour during the
change of seasons. This apart, the gentle, smiling folk, splendid
cuisine and mild climate, especially around the months of April
and May, make Hirosaki and Japan in general, a not to be
missed destination in 2013.
54
CORBIS
SHUTTERSTOCK
What exactly is the garden
of the 21st century? The
architects and planners of the
Tokachi Millennium Forest
(TMF) have sought to answer
this daunting question with
their path-breaking work in
the remote northern Japanese
island of Hokkaido. Designed
by Dan Pearson Studio and
Fumiaki Takano, TMF comprises
400 hectares of prime, sylvan
landscape located at altitudes
between 275 and 460 metres.
Inside the park, not only can
you experience a typical
Japanese larch forest, for
example, but also dine in a
farm restaurant that uses the
best of local produce to create
an eclectic, off-hand cuisine.
Besides green spaces such
as the Entrance Forest and
the Meadow Garden, various
national and international
artists such as Yoko Ono have
littered their installations
harmoniously around the
compound making it resemble
an enchanted enclosure.
Little wonder, then, that the
Society of Garden Designers
(SGD) gave it the Grand Award
for being the most beautiful of
all entries for the 2012 contest.
SHUTTERSTOCK
Millennium Garden
55
CHECKING OUT
Review
At 92,
the Karmayogi
Marches On
10 things you didn’t know about
The Leela Palace Udaipur
270
Despite retiring as Chairman of
Leela Hotels, Captain C. P. Krishnan
Nair still has his hands full
ome 70 years ago, C. P. Krishnan Nair believed his destiny
parcels and by diluting stakes in existing properties. And a
was to become a monk. Nair and one Balakrishna Menon,
new, asset light strategy is being put in place: to enter into
both of whom served in the Indian National Army, made a visit
management contracts that will bring in revenues with minimal
to Sivananda Saraswati, a spiritual teacher and proponent of
investments. What also keeps Nair stress-free is his daily
yoga and Vedanta, with the sole motive of joining his ashram.
routine of ayurvedic massages and a game of volleyball. And
The yogi held Menon’s hand as a gesture of acceptance but
the spirit to battle still burns bright. “Napolean had the guts
asked Nair to go back to the regular world and work.
to take his army to Russia; you can’t win a war, or become an
“The guru told me my path is that of a karmayogi (one who
achieves perfection via action).” Nair went back, married Leela,
Nair may be well into his 90s, but he has been a hotelier
for only just 27 years of his life. His first hotel, The Leela in
his part, went on to chart his own spiritual path, transforming
Mumbai, came up in the mid-80s, almost three decades after a
into Swami Chinmayananda and along with his devotees
stay at a Kempinski hotel in Budapest opened his eyes to the
formed the Chinmaya Mission to take Vedanta to the world.
opportunity of a luxury hotel chain in India.
At 92, Nair’s journey as a karmayogi is still incomplete. He
Nair continues to dream. “I want to explore tourism in
may have retired as Chairman of the Leela Group of Hotels
Bhutan and Sikkim as they are protected areas. I have a
earlier this month — with eldest son Vivek taking over as CMD
proposal to manage a property in Dubai,” he says.
quite walking into the sunset.
He says he still has unfinished/tasks — such as overseeing
the opening of six new hotels in Agra, Jaipur, Ashtamudi in
56
different if the founding fathers of the country had managed
to connect the rivers in India. “We have lost an opportunity
“wife Leela has asked me not to set up any more hotels and
to become equal to China. And we could have made a huge
trouble the kids. But their hands are also full now.”
difference if education for every child had been made
compulsory. A 100 IITs and an equal number of IIMs would
have helped India forge ahead of China.”
listed company, posted a loss of `291 crore, of which `282
Nair also thinks the managerial skills of retired army generals
crore is just interest cost. The group’s total debt is about of
can be put to better use, for projects that will reconstruct India.
`4,300 crore.
And to that inevitable question — can his sons emulate what
The good captain, however, is hardly fazed. The debt is
the founder of Leela Hotels achieved — the captain has a
within manageable limits, he asserts, and will be reduced by
predictable answer: “They are very clever and will do very well
selling non-core assets such as IT business parks and land
in the business.”
The Royal Suite has a
dome within it that has
genuine
gold leaf
work
is to build one such city in his home district of Kannur.
he is fondly addressed by friends. He does, however, add that
nine months ended December 2012, Hotel Leela Venture, the
- a rare colour to be used in thekri work.
mushrooming all over the country. And a plan close to his heart
make them, run them and manage them,” says the ‘captain’ as
Their hands are not full with just expansion plans. For the
GREEN
GLASS
His dreams go beyond hospitality. One of the more
Nair reckons the country’s destiny would have been totally
This article appeared in The Economic Times,
Kolkata, Saturday, 23 February 2013.
18,000
Rs
There is abundant use of
MOTHER-OFPEARL throughout the
Palace, such as in the headboards in every room.
The hotel features the
only luxury tented spa,
located in a
There are two trees of life featuring
cherished and ambitious ones is to see new, hi-tech cities
Kerala, Bangalore and Noida. His role in these ventures: “I will
Total 12 domes are there
in the hotel, including
two fibre-optic ones in
which every bulb costs
candles
in the niches of the inner
courtyard every evening.
army man.
and eventually started a garment export business. Menon, for
and Dinesh as co-chairman & MD of the group — but Nair isn’t
120
The staff light
empire unless one does something like this,” says the former
the daughter of a handloom owner in Kannur in north Kerala,
16
27
38
49
510
Elephants
(a symbol of purity & prosperity)
are crafted from silver, wood, metal,
stone and others - framed or
drawn - across the property.
By Lijee Philip & M Padmakshan, Mumbai
S
Checking out
Hotel Trivia
on it.
The hotel features a
150-YEAR-OLD
SHIVA TEMPLE
in its premises.
February 2013 | Hotelier India
This article appeared in Hotelier India, February 2013.
150-year-old
haveli,
beside the lake.
The MAHARANA
PRINTS are replicas of
the originals in the City Palace. They
were created after due approval of
the current Maharana.
Roshan Tiwari (senior boat
captain) and Sardar Singh
(doorman) have featured in the
famous James Bond movie
“Octopussy”
www.hotelierindia.com
82_Hi_Feb2013_checking out.indd 82
57
01-02-2013 21:11:05
Tradition
Oven fresh
Break bread the
traditional Indian
way — straight
from the griddle
and served hot on
the plate
A Rajasthani lady preparing roti,
the traditional Indian bread, on
a griddle at Sheesh Mahal
58
Enjoy a variety of local Indian bread like bajra roti, makki ki roti and missi roti
straight from the griddle. At Sheesh Mahal, the lakeside speciality restaurant at
The Leela Palace Udaipur, there is an attempt to go that extra mile to provide guests
an authentic Indian luxury experience through its local culinary servings. Here, the
chefs have conceptualised a novel method of serving authentic, local Rajasthani
breads at the restaurant. Not a chef but a local Rajasthani lady, clad in a beautiful
traditional attire, prepares these breads on a griddle that is made from the local red
clay, known to provide flavour and nutrition to the bread cooked on it. What more,
all the bread is made on a wood fired chulha (stove) and served with home churned
butter, jaggery and desi ghee (clarified butter). Whoever thinks luxury means an uber
chic lifestyle should come here to learn that luxury lies in the simplicity of things.
Oenophilia
The House of
Aishwarya Nair
Food & wine merchandising,
Krug
One of the rarest wines, the Krug
Clos d’Ambonnay, will soon be listed on
the wine list at The Leela Palace New Delhi,
the first ever listing of this wine in India
B
eing one of the foremost and prevalent names in
The House of Krug
pioneered the
concept of a luxury
Champagne house
hospitality today, The Leela Group prides itself
by associating with brands that have similar ethics.
Therefore, it is no wonder that the luxury Champagne
house — Krug, is well promulgated on our wine lists
across the country.
Founded by Joseph Krug, whose afflictive passion and
dedication is witnessed in the Champagne, the House
of Krug pioneered the concept of a luxury Champagne
A few notes on the
Krug Clos d’Ambonnay
by the house itself
house. Joseph Krug, a man before his time, transformed
the Champagne making process of the 19th century by
taking traditional Champagne making and exceeding the
confines of what was being practised, with the creation
Founder Joseph Krug
of Krug Grand Cuvée.
He did so by introducing the art of blending and using reserved wines of a particular
measure. This act in itself transformed the notion of a particular vintage and exposed
the immensity and an abundance of aromas and flavour for the taster to enjoy.
It is true, without doubt, that the Champagne house is “an ultimate expression
of Champagne” as it aspires to create a Champagne of “undisputed quality, rare
generosity and elegance.” Therefore, it is my pleasure to announce that one of the
most precious and rarest wines of the world, the Krug Clos d’Ambonnay, will shortly
be listed on our wine list at The Leela Palace New Delhi. This will be the first ever
listing of the wine on a wine list in India.
“Krug Clos d’Ambonnay celebrates with
the rarest of Champagnes the unique
character of a particular Pinot Noir grape
from a small, walled, 0.68 hectare plot
from the heart of Ambonnay, one of
the most distinguished villages for this
grape variety in Champagne, and one
which has played a very special role in
the life of the House of Krug. Krug Clos
d’Ambonnay reveals a personality with
significant presence, great substance
and an amazing length and finesse.”
60
Snapshot
Jet Set Go
Guess the Leela property
in this photograph
and win a luxurious
monogrammed bathrobe
from The Leela.
Send in your entry
along with your contact
details to:
theleelamagazine@
theleela.com.
All entries must be
sent before June 3, 2013.
A lucky draw from all the
correct entries will declare
the winner.
Previous contest’s
winner is:
Jyoti Shet, Manager,
Goldman Sachs
Guest Speak
Her Excellency
Yingluck
Shinawatra
His Royal
Highness
Prince Robert
The Leela Palace
New Delhi
“I had a wonderful
stay and hope to
come back again.”
The Leela Palace
Bangalore
“With thanks and
best wishes to
the kind staff at
the hotel.”
Prime Minister, Thailand
62
Sanjay Dutt
Actor
Prince of Luxembourg
The Leela Palace
Chennai
“It is one of the
best. I want to thank
the staff for making
me feel at home
and taking care of
me — Abhishek
looked after me like
family — also want
to thank Sreekant
and Nirmal and the
staff in the gym.”
T K A Nair
IAS
Advisor to the Prime
Minister of India
The Leela Mumbai
“Thanks for
looking after me
very well. Manoj
was polite and
nice and Rishikesh
was all service
with a smile.
Keep up the high
standard and
fly high.”
Kalyani Saha
Chawla
Vice President-Marketing
& Communications,
Christian Dior
The Leela
Kempinski
Gurgaon
“The hotel’s spa
is one of the best.
What an amazingly
rejuvenating
afternoon.”
Arjan Singh
Marshal of the Indian
Air Force
The rooftop swimming pool at
The Leela Palace New Delhi
The Leela Kovalam
“It is a wonderful
resort which
attracts visitors
from all over
the world. The
standard and
service are
commendable. I
congratulate
its staff.”
Vikram Shroff
Executive Director
United Phosphorus Ltd.
What makes your stay at The Leela Palace New Delhi
Name your favourite restaurant in the hotel and mention
unique?
what sets it apart?
The location is perfect. The size is right and the staff,
Megu and it’s simply because of its excellent food and
very personal. The dining and bar options are the
superb ambience.
best in the city.
What is the one thing that brings you back to the hotel each
What is the most distinctive element of the hotel?
time?
Its luxurious rooms.
The staff service.
63
Accolades
High five
The Leela Palace New Delhi kick-started 2013 by bagging
five prestigious awards given by the world’s largest and most
trusted travel website, TripAdvisor, at the 2013 Travellers’
Choice Hotel Awards. The hotel was recognised as one
amongst the Top Big and Luxury Hotels in Asia and Top Big,
Service and Luxury Hotels in India. These annual awards
are based on the millions of valuable reviews and opinions
obtained from travellers across India and the world. The
awards were conferred at an exclusive by-invitation soiree in
Son of soil feted
the presence of stalwarts from the hospitality industry.
Padma Bhushan Captain C. P. Krishnan Nair, Chairman
Manager, The Leela Palace New Delhi said, “Digital evolution
Emeritus and Founder Chairman, The Leela Palaces, Hotels
highly impacts the decisions of discerning travellers the
and Resorts was honoured by the Uthara Kerala Vaniya
world over. Therefore, being recognised by the world’s largest
Samudhhaya Mahasangamam at a felicitation ceremony held
and the most trusted travel site for two consecutive years, is
early this year in Kerala.
indeed a proud moment.”
Connoisseur’s club
Green award
Palaces, Hotels and Resorts received the Gulf Connoisseur
National Energy Conservation Award 2012 by
Awards 2013 for the Best Luxury Hotel in Asia given to
President Pranab Mukherjee for its outstanding
The Leela Palace New Delhi. Ingie Chalhoub, Founder,
achievements in energy conservation. The
President and Managing Director of the Etoile Group
awards, organised annually by the Bureau
presented the award at a glittering ceremony held in Dubai
of Energy Efficiency (BEE), a statutory body
to celebrate the 10th anniversary of Gulf Connoisseur, the
under the Ministry of Power, Government of
Gulf’s premier luxury lifestyle magazine.
India, nationally recognises businesses that
Vivek Nair, Chairman and Managing Director, The Leela
Sparkling lady
Aishwarya Nair, Corporate Food and Wine Consultant of
The Leela Palaces, Hotels & Resorts and the third generation
hotelier of The Leela Group, became the first Indian woman to
be conferred with a Diplôme d’ Honneur by the Corporation des
Vignerons de Champagne and the Comite Interprofessionel
du Vin de Champagne (CIVC). She received the honour for
her exceptional contribution towards promoting Champagne
in India and for proposing the finest Champagne list at
The Leela Palace New Delhi. The Champagne list at the hotel
currently features 86 Champagnes. She was felicitated by
the Ambassador of Champagne to India, Rajiv Singhal.
64
Commenting on the recognition, Tamir Kobrin, General
The Leela Palace Bangalore was conferred the
have made systematic and serious attempts
for efficient utilisation and conservation
of energy during the year. The award, a
prestigious national recognition of the hotel’s
consistent and energy efficient management,
was received by Andrew Hendrian, General
Manager, The Leela Palace Bangalore.
Present on the occasion were Jyotiraditya
Madhavrao Scindia, Minister of State for
Power; P Uma Shankar, Union Power Secretary;
and Jyoti Arora, Director-General, Bureau of
Energy Efficiency.
65
Events
Roll of
Black lady
unveiled
honour
The Leela Mumbai saw
TKA Nair, advisor to the Prime Minister of India, Pinarayi Vijayan,
actress Aishwarya Rai
politburo member and CPI(M) General Secretary, Naresh
Bachchan unveiling the
Goyal, Chairman, Jet Airways, Niranjan Hiranandani, Managing
Director, Hiranandani group, renowned Malayalam actors
Madhu and Sheela, Rev. Father Dr. Jayasingh, ambassador for
World Peace, Office of United Nations Relations and Aditya
Uddhav Thackeray, leader and Chairperson, Yuva Sena, won
the first Kashmir to Kerala (K&K) Foundation Annual Awards.
special Filmfare trophy,
crafted with a gold base, to
Winners of the Kashmir to Kerala (K&K) Foundation Annual Awards
share the dais with the guests of honour. Dr. Farooq Abdullah, Union
Cabinet Minister for New and Renewable Energy, Shriji Arvind Singh
Mewar, Maharana of Udaipur and Padma Bhushan Captain C. P.
Krishnan Nair, Chairman Emeritus and Founder Chairman, The Leela
Palaces, Hotels and Resorts
The Kashmir to Kerala Social Foundation Awards 2013 is a
Founder Chairman, The Leela Palaces, Hotels and Resorts
celebration to honour distinguished and outstanding leaders
announced the names of the winners at an annual awards
who have brought glory and change to the nation through
night celebration held at The Leela Mumbai early this year.
commemorate 100 years of
Indian cinema.
sustained efforts. In its first year, the awards aim to recognise
Speaking on the occasion, Captain Nair said, “I am
contributions of individuals across diverse fields ranging from
extraordinarily pleased to be part of the celebrations
Winner’s club
business and politics to advocacy and films. Shriji Arvind
honouring
The
Singh Mewar, Maharana of Udaipur, Dr. Farooq Abdullah, Union
exemplary personalities of our nation. Their excellence is
presented and hosted the first edition of
Cabinet Minister for New and Renewable Energy and Padma
a true inspiration for others and has set a perfect example
The Leela Travel Trade Awards 2013 aimed at
Bhushan Captain C. P. Krishnan Nair, Chairman Emeritus and
for the next generation to follow.”
recognising the invaluable contributions and
the
invaluable
contributions
of
the
most
Leela
Palaces,
Hotels
and
Resorts
support of its travel and trade partners.
Tasting
The ceremony, held at The Leela Kempinski
spirit
Gurgaon, began with the unveiling of Raga, a
rare music composition conceptualised and
created by Samyukta Nair and written and
composed by Amaan and Ayaan Ali Khan. The
unveiling was followed by a live rendition by
Ayaan Ali Khan.
Present on the occasion were prominent
individuals from the travel industry. These
included Ram Kohli, Chairman and Managing
Director, Creative Travel; Dipak Deva, CEO, SITA
Travels; Vikram Madhok, MD, A & K; Ashish
Kishore, Country Head, HRG Dnata, among
many others.
The five award categories were Charters,
MICE, Inbound, Preferred Domestic Leisure
Travel
The
Above: Prahlad and Mitali Kakkar sharing their views with Karen Anand at the Domaines Barons de Rothschild-Lafite wine do
Partners
winners
and
Corporate
included
Creative
Support.
Travels,
Kuoni Destination Management (KDM), LPTI,
66
The Leela Mumbai, together with Aspri
with exclusive Lafite wines paired with
Négrier, Export Director of Domaines
Travel Corporation of India, Tamarind, Caper
Spirits, presented a fine selection
epicurean
Barons de Rothschild, ad guru Prahlad
Travels, Cox & Kings and domestic partners
of wines from Domaines Barons de
at the poolside of Six Degrees, the
Kakkar
and
like Classic Travels, Global Odyssey, Make My
Rothschild-Lafite to the city’s swish
cosmopolitan lounge bar at the hotel.
culinary and wine expert Karen Anand,
Trip, Windex Tours and Travel, and Explorer,
set. A luxury dining experience replete
Present on the occasion were Michel
besides others.
among others.
delicacies,
were
served
and
his
wife
Mitali,
Top: Kiran Jyoti, Executive Director, Indian Routes, Le Passage to India (LPTI); Rajiv Kaul,
President, The Leela Palaces, Hotels and Resorts, Vivek Nair, Chairman and Managing
Director, The Leela Palaces, Hotels and Resorts and Deepak Bhatnagar, Joint Mangaing
Director, LPTI at the Leela Travel Trade Awards held at The Leela Kempinski Gurgaon
Above: Captain Nair welcoming Ayaan Ali Khan, who performed at the hotel
67
The Social Index
Concierge Speak
| WHAT TO SEE | WHERE TO EAT | WHERE TO SHOP |
Wheels of change
Solace for the soul
Laura Turkington, Country Director of Vodafone
Foundation in India and Carina Deegan, Project
Manager for the Johan Cruyff Foundation in Mumbai, along
with Sunita Chaudhury, the first female rickshaw driver
from New Delhi, rode a rickshaw from Delhi to Mumbai
to meet some amazing women and share their tale
l Meghalaya’s Bertha G Dkhar lost her
Deegan
along
with
Sunita
Chaudhary,
eyesight completely while studying in
embarked on a 1,500 kilometres journey in
Bangalore and returned to her native place,
a rickshaw from Delhi to Mumbai to discover
Shillong. After doing several odd jobs, she
and
decided to provide education to the visually-
extraordinary things across India. It’s called
impaired. She went on to invent the Braille
the Red Rickshaw Revolution (RRR).
code in Khasi, a major tribal language
encounter
ordinary
women
doing
“The Red Rickshaw Revolution aimed to
celebrate the achievements of inspirational
of Meghalaya.
lHirabai ben Lobi is a rural entrepreneur
women
across
the
country
and
raise
who, despite limited education, started
crucial funds for three non-governmental
an organic compost farm in her village in
organisations (NGOs) which are working to
Gujarat. She has provided a new scientific
empower many more,” says Laura Turkington,
method of sustainable farming enterprise
Country Director of Vodafone Foundation
that is also generating good profits.
in India.
Vodafone
S
tories of such ordinary women showing
with
extraordinary
Collective
talent,
selfless
service,
NGOs
Foundation
has
partnered
like
Aap
Women’s
Apne
(AAWC),
Breakthrough
and
exemplary courage and leadership were
CORP India, all working towards women
found,
empowerment projects.
heard
and
their
stories
shared
with the world during a nine day road
During the journey, live updates of three
journey undertaken by three women in
women each day along the route were
a rickshaw.
featured on the RRR website and amplified
On March 9, Laura Turkington, Carina
using various social media streams such as
social networking sites, webcast, podcast,
videos, pictorial content and features.
“Vodafone
Foundation
in
India
is
combining skills, resources and funding to
build a brighter future for people who are
currently unable to fulfill their potential. The
foundation seeks to empower women so that
they can compete on an equal footing. It also
wants to reach out to rural areas and support
the people living there, and provide newer
Sunita Chaudhary, Carina Deegan & Laura Turkington
68
opportunities to them,” says Turkington.
Started in 1998 in
Kamathipura, Mumbai’s oldest
red-light district, Apne Aap
Women’s Collective (AAWC)
is an NGO that works with
the most underprivileged
sections of society — women
in brothel-based prostitution
and their children.
AAWC’s mission is all
about making a difference in
the lives of these marginalised
women and children, who
are abandoned, destitute,
exploited and with limited
resources to keep their body
and soul together.
Initially operating from a
single room that functioned
as a day care drop-in centre
to provide solace to women
who had been trafficked into
the sex trade, AAWC has now
developed into a resource
centre where professional
counselling, medical care,
micro-savings facilities, among
other services are provided to
these women.
On seeing the grim reality
of the daughters of such
women who were at the risk of
being pushed into prostitution
AAWC began Udaan, a
programme dedicated to
preventing the second
generation from getting
trafficked into prostitution. It
addresses their educational,
vocational, medical and
nutritional needs.
AAWC also established
a kindergarten as part of
its project, Umang. This has
evolved into a day care centre
combined with an educational
programme for boys and
girls of these women, aged
between two and six years.
Contact: + 91 22 2381 9721,
+ 91 22 2381 2189
The Leela Palace Bangalore
Name the hotspots at The Leela Palace Bangalore that every
guest must visit and experience.
A must visit is Amoeba, the sports bar with a bowling alley at
The Leela Galleria for some after hours entertainment. If you’re
the kind who wants to indulge in some spa pampering, head to
Spa The Leela. It offers a holistic experience with treatments
based on European, Eastern and Ayurvedic philosophies.
One can also indulge in a range of natural skin care products
including anti-stress aromatherapy oil, pure seaweed and
cleansing mud from the acclaimed brand, ESPA. Spa The Leela
also offers daily yoga. A visit to the gym, whirlpool and sauna,
before heading to the spa is highly recommended. You can
make a prior appointment with the spa reception at 1292.
Please tell us about the restaurants at The Leela Palace
Bangalore. What can one look forward to, in terms of cuisine
Soudha, Lal Bagh and The Bangalore Palace. The Vidhan
and popular dishes, at each of these restaurants?
Soudha is the seat of the state legislature, sprawled across 60
Our signature Indian restaurant, Jamavar, serves authentic
acres and built almost entirely of dressed Bangalore granite.
dishes from north as well as south of India. Listed in the
Lal Bagh is a 240-acre botanical garden built along the lines
Forbes magazine in 2007 as one of the top ten power dining
of the Mughal gardens. This 18th century paradise is dotted
restaurants of the world, you must try the Lobster Neeruli,
with rare trees brought from far-off countries like Persia,
Raan-e-Jamavar, Gosht Naali Ka and Murgh Alamgiri.
Afghanistan and France. The Bangalore Palace, built in 1880 by
At the Pan-Asian restaurant, Zen, known for its Japanese,
Thai, Chinese and Korean food, we recommend the sushi and
the Wodeyar king, has the Tudor architectural style comprising
fortified towers, battlements and turrets.
dimsum platter. Other must haves include Buddha’s Delight,
California rolls and Korean Bulgogi. You can enjoy an extensive
Which are the best markets to shop at?
sea food grill buffet every Wednesday night. For those keen
You can shop for traditional Indian handicrafts, sarees,
to visit the restaurant for an evening dinner, we advise
sandalwood statues and soap and jewellery at the various
prior reservations.
shops at City Market, Commercial Street, Brigade Road and
MG Road. You can buy these from the Cauvery Arts & Crafts
For a business traveller, what are the options available at the
Emporium on MG Road, or, visit the Karnataka Silk Board at
hotel to de-stress after a hard day at work?
Cubbonpet for silk items. For buying luxury branded goods, a
Spa The Leela is the best place to head to and knead away
visit to Maison, the city’s first concept store for women, The
the stress knots. Also, a visit to The Library Bar sets you in
Collective, a lifestyle store for both men and women, UB City
a relaxed frame of mind right away. It is an old-fashioned
mall, all on Vittal Mallya Road and Cinnamon, a lifestyle store
English-style bar with both indoor and outdoor seating, where
on Lavelle Road, are pure indulgences.
you can indulge in fine single malt whiskeys, aged cognac as
well as smoke the finest Cuban cigars.
Which are the historical landmarks that a traveller to
Bangalore must see?
A days’ tour around the city must include a visit to the Vidhan
ABOVE: Zen, the Pan-Asian
restaurant at The Leela
Palace Bangalore
To know more about
THE LEELA PALACE BANGALORE
please scan this QR Code from
your smart phone.
69
Insider’s Guide
Perspective
DELHI
A timeless appeal
Stitching a legacy
By Sujata Dugar
“I
parts of the country I knew. Chennai has
We have always been travellers — my grandfather went to
a very specific identity.
Which are the best places to shop for
would recommend to a first-time visitor and state why?
designer clothing for men, bridal and
Chicago at the age of 19, my father went to Hollywood at the
Now, Chennai has become home
The walled city is a must. It includes the famous Chandni
groom wear and traditional textiles?
age of 18 and I, to India, at the age of 19 for the first time, and
to me because this is where I work
Chowk, a major street in the walled city of old Delhi, the Red
The DLF Emporio mall, tailors in Khan
finally settled in Chennai (formerly called Madras) at 27. I have
with
Fort and the Jama Masjid. Built by Mughal emperor Shah Jahan,
Market, South Extension market and the
been staying in the city for 20 years now.
Sriperumbudur, the place where I found
it’s a city within a city and it transports you to the Mughal era.
Gallery on MG mall at MG Road. I would
When I came to India during my early days, I was struck to
Its vibrancy and munificence are infectious. A rickshaw ride
also recommend the State Emporia on
see that the same tradition of embroidery existed in both India
or a foot trek down the streets, where the various sights and
Baba Kharak Singh Marg and Cottage
and France. It was passed on to these countries from China and
aromas engulf and transport one into another era, make it a
Industries at Janpath.
truly invigorating experience. Another must-see is the India
Gate-Rajpath stretch, which has the world’s best located and
Mention the best places for fine dining
regal home for a head of state — the Rashtrapati Bhavan with
in the city?
beautiful homes for other dignitaries in close vicinity — is
The Le Cirque at the Leela Palace New
majestic, to say the least.
Delhi undoubtedly.
Take away experiences from the city include listening to
the qawwali at the dargah of Hazrat Nizamuddin, soaking in the
Where should one go to try authentic
tranquility at Humayun’s tomb and taking a walk at dusk or dawn
local food?
at the beautiful Lodi Gardens.
Karim’s, located in the walled city and
Moti Mahal, at Daryaganj, are the best
Name some of the custom-made items you can buy from the
places and I would clearly designate
city and mention places you can procure them from?
them as the capital for the best of street
One can go to Tank Road in Karol Bagh to buy customised
food. The range is limitless, delicious and
shoes, to old Delhi tailors to get customised suits, to
fresh because of the quick turnovers. The
Anarkali to get lehengas, and of course, to any of the
fares include Daulat ki chaat, parathas of
famous Indian fashion designers for couture. Delhi
50-odd varieties, jalebis, chaat, nan
enjoys the advantage of a central position in the
khatai and others.
country’s map and hence you can see popular, craftbased products converging here from neighbouring
Suggest some off-beat places to go to
states. A visit to Dilli Haat would surprise you with its
in and around Delhi?
eclectic offerings.
The city’s central location provides you
the luxury to drive to
the heavenly Ananda
Completing 25 years
in the Indian fashion
industry is no mean feat.
Achieving this is none
other than noted fashion
designer Ravi Bajaj.
New Delhi-based Bajaj,
known for his trademark
menswear collection,
has, over the years,
gone ahead to design
for women too. He
started his eponymous
fashion label in 1987
and his structured
clothes earned him the
title of ‘Armani of India’
in the 90s. Not one
to be limited to mere
designing of clothes,
Bajaj has furthered his
creativity by foraying
into opening cafes and
bars and even starting
a new design enterprise
called Fashion Living
by Ravi Bajaj — a
company which designs
high-end residences.
Persia during the 12th century.
extraordinary
artisans
from
my Indian associates who have been my
friends for 20 years.
This is the city where people smile
most of the time. This is where, when
I decided to continue with my family legacy and embroideries
here in India, and found a language to express myself.
people are educated, they are extremely
educated. It is a place where you
I got the idea to create a workshop, along with my associates,
discover some of the oldest traces of
where local craftsmen would really be the nucleus of the
Indian history. It’s at the same time a
project. Vastrakala was the outcome. The role of the managers,
huge metropolis and a giant village. It is
including mine, was only to frame their talent, to give them
a hospitable, welcoming place. People
a solid base to express themselves and continue to produce
understand excellence.
beautiful handmade embroideries as they have been doing
When I set foot in India, embroidery
for over two centuries. I knew it would be successful as luxury
was perceived to be a sort of ethnic craft
products across the world. Today, we supply to places ranging
and nobody at that time really believed
from palaces in France to operas, museums and mansions
that India could manufacture high
across the planet and very often, our embroideries co-exist
quality products. What has drastically
with the most exquisite paintings and artworks.
changed is that in any field pertaining
The project we have started in Chennai is
to creation and design, India is no
helping people to rediscover embroidery and
longer perceived as a place for
its multiple facets. People come to see what
inexpensive labour; India is a
we do at Vastrakala — ministers, film stars,
place where people source
royalty, millionaires besides extremely
highly crafted products too.
normal and humble people
express
equal
In Chennai, like anywhere
Jean-Francois Lesage
belongs to the fourth
generation of a family of
traditional embroiderers
in France. The House of
Lesage, founded in 1862,
were the embroiderers
for Napoleon III and
his court; his father,
Francois Lesage, supplied
embroidery to the best
couture houses —
Balenciaga, Christian
Dior, Yves St. Laurent,
to name a few. Nearly
20 years back, JeanFrancois Lesage found
his calling in Chennai
and started Vastrakala,
a hand embroidery craft
company. It employs
local craftsmen and
trains them to create
embroidery fit for the
kings. His clients include
the rich and the famous.
shock
else in India, everything takes
and surprise to discover
time. Sometimes it looks
the manner in which
complicated but everything is possible. There is a
our artisans are able to
feeling of freedom which helps enterprise. There
in the Himalayas or,
create
go white water rafting, both within five
embroidered
or six hours drive from the city. You can
day after day and year
given me enormous energy to push our professional
after year.
projects from six embroiderers 20 years ago to 150
reach the desert city of Jaipur in four
70
was born in a family which started embroidery in 1860.
Of the famous tourist sites in the city, name the places you
extraordinary
hours and the Taj Mahal and palaces like
When I started living
the Samode Palace and the Neemrana,
in Chennai, it took me
within a couple of hours. Not to
some time to understand
forget Leh, which is just an hour away
it
by flight.
understanding the other
Jama Masjid is part of the walled city of old Delhi
as
is a comprehension for team spirit and there is a
work,
compared
pleasure of achieving things together which has
today, and I am not sure that it would have been
possible anywhere else in the world.
What I know is that this is the place where I
to
found myself, this is the place where I can achieve
what I want.
A reproduction of Napoleon’s throne
done by the craftsmen of Vastrakala
71
CONTENTS
THE LEELA MAGAZINE — SUMMER 2013
24
6
10
Luxe Effect
12
Fashion
18
Music
24
Adventure
Spruce up your style quotient
with a wristwear that befits
your personality
An exclusive preview of
designer Atsu Sekhose’s
Fall/Winter ’13 collection
Year-round music festivals
promoting Indian music are
fast becoming the rage
Skiing wonders at Chamonix
valley and Courmayeur in
the Swiss Alps
34
Travel
42
Literary
46
Tribute
52
Photo Essay
A trip to Darjeeling, home to
the world’s best tea, and a hill
station with a British charm
Author Amish Tripathi talks
about Lord Shiva and his latest
book in the Shiva Trilogy
Bombay Talkies, an anthology
film, pays tribute to 100 years
of Indian cinema
Soak in the mesmerising view
of the cherry blossoms in full
bloom in Japan
T H E
L E E L A
M A G A Z I N E
—
S U M M E R
2 0 1 3
CONTENTS
58
Tradition
6o
Oenophilia
62
Snapshot
Break bread the traditional
Indian way — straight from
the griddle and served hot
The rare Krug Clos
d’Ambonnay is on The Leela
Palace New Delhi wine list
Decipher the property from
the photograph and win a gift
voucher from The Leela
64
Accolades
66
Events
70
Insider’s Guide
Aishwarya Nair honoured by
the Corporation des Vignerons
de Champagne
Distinguished winners of the
first Kashmir to Kerala Social
Foundation Awards 2013
Designer Ravi Bajaj unravels
the hidden charms of the
walled city of old Delhi
COVER
An embroidered net gown from
ATSU’s Fall/Winter ’13 collection
shot at The Leela Palace New Delhi
Photograph: Tarun Vishwa
THE LEELA
PUBLISHER — Amruda Nair
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10
Fashion
I
t’s not everyday that you come across
a fashion designer from the northeastern part of the country taking the
fashion world by storm. Atsu Sekhose
is one such name. A talented fashion
designer hailing from Nagaland, in the
north-eastern part of India, Atsu has
been the talk of the town ever since his
debut collection was showcased in 2007.
At the Wills Lifestyle India Fashion Week
Spring/Summer 2013, his eponymous
label (ATSU) had models strutting down
the ramp in Eri silk parkas, trench
coats, patchwork skirts made apparent,
Assamese muga silk shirt paired with
Mizo woven silk pants, Angami pencil
skirts as well as shorts with traditional
Manipuri weave. He had collaborated
with the Ministry of Textiles to showcase
traditional fabrics from India’s northeast and his collection earned him
rave reviews.
If you thought the north-east was
only about rock concerts and momos,
Atsu’s designs are sure to offer you a
peek into the rich fashion sensibilities of
the region.
Eclectic
Atsu
12
A preview of designer
Atsu Sekhose’s Fall/
Winter 2013 collection
shot exclusively at
Le Cirque at The Leela
Palace New Delhi
Photographs: Tarun Vishwa
Left: A box pleated gold
embroidered long dress
Facing page: (Left to right)
Black net yoke embroidered bird
gown with long sleeves;
An off-shoulder embroidered
blouse with net skirt dress
13
A graduate of NIFT, New Delhi,
invited to showcase at Tranoi, Paris.
Delhi-based Atsu apprenticed under
Vogue magazine profiled him as the most
one of India’s leading fashion designer,
promising designer to watch out for.
Tarun Tahiliani and with the Spanish
Left to right: Black embroidered lace
blouse and a digital printed skirt dress
with a train; Gold and black embroidered
shoulder net yoke dress with sleeves;
Black and white embroidered blouse with
side slit skirt dress and black pants
14
His
Spring/Summer
2009
high street brand Zara for a couple of
collection bagged him the best debut
years before launching his label (ATSU)
by
in 2006. Since his Spring/Summer 2007
spotlighted his Spring/Summer 2009
debut, the brand has grown immensely
as one of the strongest collections
and received several accolades. Primarily
of the season. He also showcased his
Atsu Sekhose
known for his chic, feminine and
Spring/Summer 2010 collection at the
A+M Studio, Building No.11,
Dayal Bagh, Surajkund Road,
Faridabad, Haryana-121009.
Contact: +91 98101 14431
www.atsu.in
understated clothing, Atsu’s label has
Milan Fashion Week.
Above: (Left to right) Long sleeve offshoulder dress; Red and black embroidered
horizontal stripes blouse with digital
printed skirt dress; Waist embroidered
one-shoulder draped dress with gold pants;
Black embroidered net peplum dress
Elle
style
awards
and
Vogue
evolved into a complete ready-to-wear
His clientele comprises the crème
collection, which firmly highlights his
de la crème of Mumbai and Delhi.
signature style and modern adaptations
He retails from Ogaan (New Delhi),
to classic silhouettes. He has effectively
Mélange (Mumbai), Ensemble (Delhi
showcased the little known textiles and
and Mumbai) and Collage (Bangalore
weaves of the north-eastern parts of
and Chennai).
the country.
Atsu’s
avant-garde
fashion
has
(The garments showcased in this feature
been featured by Elle magazine and
will be made-to-order at the designer’s
he has been termed as the rising star
studio by appointment only.
of Indian fashion. He has even been
Prices will be available on request).
15
Left: Lead vocalist Ankur Tewari of Ankur and the Ghalat Family performing at Sulafest
Right: Artistes perform at the Tansen Music Festival held in Gwalior every year to honour legendary classical musician, Tansen
20
highly successful NH7 Weekender and Percept’s Sunburn have
and Delhi and Colombo, in the next few months. Headlined
drastically upped the ante for smoothly run and skillfully
with bigwigs like Axwell and Above & Beyond, the other
executed festivals. “Multiple players, long term planning and
names Sunburners have bounced to include Gareth Emery,
better curators and audiences”, says OML’s CEO Vijay Nair.
Axwell, Markus Schulz, Pete Tong, Infected Mushroom, GMS
These have injected a revitalised vigour into the shrooming
and Skazi Live. Deeply rooted in Goa trance, expect magnificent
festival scene.
pyrotechnics and trippy visuals from Delhi boys’ BLOT.
In their third year running, OML’s annual “happy people”
“People now expect all the things that come together to
making shindig, the Bacardi NH7 Weekender committed what
make a “music festival” — big line-ups, multiple stages,
was called music festival-goer’s blasphemy. Having skillfully
assorted non-musical activities, (film tents, food courts),
proven their festival organisation mettle in two different
etc.,” adds Ravi. The music industry’s newest bedfellows,
maidans in Pune, they took India’s “happiest” festival to Delhi
the big sponsors like Bacardi, Dewars, Smirnoff, Percept,
and Bengaluru. The brainchild of festival organising wizards
Micromax and Nokia, have also made this fairy tale list
Vijay Nair, Dhruv Jagasia and Girish ‘Bobby’ Talwar, crowds of
of expectations possible. Having for so long fêted only
20,000 plus people have made their way each time to the three
Bollywood and cricket, “big brands have woken up to a large
cities, to work their way across stages listening to line-ups
demographic of the youth that’s finding Bollywood crass”,
including everything from the coolest to the cult-est, in punk,
says musician and screenwriter Ankur Tewari, the frontman/
metal and EDM to folk rock, dubstep and acoustic. Ending
lyricist of indie-rock band, Ankur and The Ghalat Family.
with the usual send-off with a big headlining act ranging from
It helps, of course, that surrogate-advertising laws ensure
Imogen Heap and Asian Dub Foundation to Megadeth and
this is the only (and probably coolest) way alcohol brands
Foreign Beggars.
can advertise.
On the other hand, noisy, dusty, adrenalin pumping and
Menwhopause’s bass guitarist Anup Kutty, isn’t being
packed with over 100,000 people, Sunburn’s sexy beats are the
hyperbolic when he says, “the greatest boon to the music
wet dream of any psychedelic, house and EDM junkie. With
industry has been the ban on alcohol advertising”. Finding
dance music evangelist Nikhil Chinapa at the forefront, now in
a music festival to append to their name gives them much
its sixth year, Sunburn kicked off in 2007 on Goa’s Candolim
more mileage, than any soda bottle or music CD compilation
beach as a three day festival. It has, this year, also taken the
could have. Yet, as much as it eases the way monetarily,
gigs in a smaller fashion, to Mumbai (held earlier this year)
some organisers like Kutty, who has tied up with the
An enthralling performance at the NH7 Weekender Indie music festival
Whether it is large festivals or shorter clubs, pub
tours/gigs, new bands have opportunities to be
discovered, old bands get new platforms to play at,
and music fans have whatever music they crave for
Arunachal Pradesh tourism board, for the north east’s first
Either way, whether it is large festivals or shorter clubs, pub
big mainstream music festival Ziro, in the picturesque,
tours/ gigs, new bands have opportunities to be discovered,
virginal Arunachal Pradesh or Happily Unmarried’s (a
old bands get new platforms to play at, and music fans have
Delhi-based
whatever music they crave — indie rock, folk, drum & bass,
product
design
brand)
bijou-sized
Music
in Hills, now in their eighth year, avoid sponsors like a
content-diluting plague.
22
reggae, pop, EDM, et al.
What
then,
is
the
winning
ingredient
for
a
When the Menwhopause boys travelled to the untouched
festival? In this festival renaissance, a shindig is held
Arunachal Pradesh in 2011, one thing hit them — the lack of
for music, design, debate, films, literature or art almost
exchange of music between there and the rest of the country.
every fortnight in India. Some fade into the background,
That then, became their first priority. Ziro Festival of Music
some fizzle out like last year’s Metallica fiasco and other’s
saw the coming together of local bands and some of the
go onto become India’s Glastonbury. Pune’s carnivalesque
biggest names from across the country for what was touted
NH7 made a strong case for the Glaston crown, when
as north-east’s first music festival, in this inaccessible hill
organiser Nair said his only aim was to have a festival of
station. Sans any big sponsors, except the Arunachal Pradesh
happy, shiny people.
Tourism and local businesses, the Apatani tribals put up food
Or, maybe, it’s as simple as singer Ankur Tewari puts it, a
stalls (essentially many kinds of meats) accompanied by many
festival only needs 50 grams of bands and 10 litres of beer, a
kegs of rice beer.
tinge of location and a dash of love.
Adventure
Skiing in alpine
Y
ou pause. In those few seconds you
Associations des Guides de Montagne),
hear: total silence. A moment later — or
without whom adventurous skiing
Chamonix
maybe an age — there is the ploosh of
would be impossible, Ski Weekend
snow, descending from a tree, gently
organises luxury breaks that afford the
onto snow.
maximum skiing with the least possible
Naomi Price goes skiing in the
glorious Chamonix valley and
the neighbouring resort of
Courmayeur and comes back
to share the chilling thrill
of the mountain there are the powder
arrangements
bowls, pristine after a fall of snow,
in on a private jet, hiring skis, skiing
secrets jealously guarded by the first
a couple of pitches and then flying
to make their primal mark with the
back again.
And then, you ski off: into the
trees, and quickly through the woods,
ducking
as in: “The guys are on the plane,
absorbing
they’ll be there in an hour, can you
undulations. Higher up, over the back
sort this out?” Other clients may make
over
branches,
compressions,
signature of perfect copper plate Ss to
which all off-piste skiers aspire.
Alps.
valley,
The
glorious
dominated
by
the
Chamonix
Ski Weekend is headed by Gavin
background of mountain exploration
(Kashmir,
Greenland,
Sweden,
for
16,000-
example). He has lived so long in
Chamonix that he has acquired a Gallic
most exhilarating skiing and climbing
carapace as doughty and deadpan as
experience in the world. Chamonix is
that of his guides.
There are a small number of ski
One such guide is Yves Detry,
avalanche
coach
and
Himalaya
companies who specialise in making
expedition leader, still feted since 1979
such experiences accessible. The most
when he opened the 55o notorious north
prominent
face of the Aiguille du Midi. He has never
of
these,
Ski
Weekend,
was the first English ski business to
arriving
foot Mont Blanc, is the heart of the
only an hour and a half from Geneva.
24
themselves,
Foster, an Englishman with a formidable
This is the majestic splendour of
the
had to buy a drink in town since.
have set up in Chamonix 27 years
A typical day with a Ski Weekend
ago. In conjunction with top UIAGM
guide might include a descent off the
guides
back of the Argentiere (grave accent
(Union
Internationale
des
CORBIS
A skier jumping off a
crevasse in the Alps
They cater to trips at short notice,
bouncing
up
under
logistical fuss.
25
CORBIS
SHUTTERSTOCK
SHUTTERSTOCK
Top: A climber watching the top of Mont Blanc from a peak over Courmayeur
Above: (Left to right) Heli-skiing at Mount Blanc; A skier skiing down through powder snow on a giant cascade
here) glacier at the Pointe de Vue on the
Weekend
runs
instruction
Grands Montets (2,400 vertical metres)
programmes:
into some large powder bowls and a
Terrains (Ski the Whole Mountain in all
long itinerary from top to bottom, then
conditions) and Belle Traces for the fine-
a run down the north-east face of the
tuning of off-piste technique.
Glacier des Rognons, via intermittent
Off-piste
Toutes
groups
Neiges
are
Tous
transport is on permanent call to pick
up and deliver from the bottom of
the mountain.
Ski Weekend’s own Chalet Jumelles
is a traditionally-built, intimate retreat
carefully
with a vast beam cut from a whole tree
forays into neighbouring nations under
assembled with no more than six
running the entire length of the chalet
the off-piste ropes that demarcate the
of a compatible standard in each.
rafters and a roaring fire encased in
border between France and Switzerland.
On-piste tuition is also available by
cleanly modern glass box. Bedrooms
qualified instructors.
and suites are warmly clad in wood
Though a descent down an icy
26
Ski
40-degree couloir is to the guide but a
With five distinct ski areas with
while bathrooms feature huge sweeping
jolly little trundle before lunch, they
a total of 155 km of piste (all on the
abstract-shaped washbasins made of
generally recognise that not everyone
same lift pass), the resort is by its
larch by a local craftsman. Chalet hosts
may see it like that.
nature,
and chefs deliver a high level of cuisine.
fragmentary;
Ski
Weekend
CORBIS
People take time off from skiing to enjoy the local cuisine at a side street in Aosta Valley
There are several Michelin-starred and
Courmayeur - the chic side
other top restaurants in town.
Twenty
minutes
from
Mont Blanc to one, Monte Bianco to
Chamonix
the other.
Unlike many ski resorts, Chamonix
through the Mont Blanc tunnel into the
Inhabitants of either of the towns
is a proper town in its own right,
Aosta valley lies the neighbouring resort
may be inflamed into an access of
much of it remaining the unchanged
of Courmayeur, whose temperament
righteous sibling rivalry by the gentle
image of the art-deco ski posters that
is so different from her sibling that we
reminder that one resort is a little bit
commemorate its history: stylish, racy
marvel that they can have emerged from
better than the other. Yet both siblings
and consummately French.
the same domineering elemental mother:
are equally talented.
Summer slopes
We list some of the best skiing destinations between June and
September, when it’s summer in the Northern Hemisphere
Argentina: It has about 14 ski resorts dotted along the Andes with
three major ski regions: the ski resorts near Mendoza; the Lakes District
and Patagonia ski areas in the south; and Ushuaia, way down south. Las
Leñas, a 90-minute flight from Buenos Aires, is renowned for its steep
terrain and adrenalin pumping double-black diamond chutes. The
annual snowfall at Las Leñas is around 6 metres (250 inches) and the
powder is known to be pretty good. Cat skiing and cat boarding is also
available from Las Leñas. The Lake District is in the north of Patagonia
with Bariloche being a common gateway
to the ski resorts in this area.
Chile: Some of the best skiing on the
continent, with light powder snow, is in
this region. Portillo, a two hours drive from
Santiago, offers an old-school ski-resort
experience. The treeless Portillo ski terrain
is a combination of long groomed runs and
big mountain skiing. There are trails for all
ability levels, but it caters particularly well
to the advanced rider with plenty of steep
28
slopes. Skiing is more popular than snowboarding. For the adventurous,
Ski Arpa has the continent’s only cat-skiing. Valle Nevado, located
67km from Santiago, is yet another ski resort. It has lots of cruisy,
wide-open groomed runs for the intermediate skier and boarder.
There are slopes for beginners, mellow pitched off-piste areas
for advanced riders, and a couple of steeper bowls and chutes to
challenge the experienced rider.
New Zealand: New Zealand ski fields are uncrowded with plenty of
wide-open bowls and gentle slopes for first-time skiers and off-piste
skiing and heli-skiing for the more adventurous. Thousands of skiers
descend every season to the adventure
capital of Queenstown and nearby
Wanaka for the four resorts within a short
distance of each other: the Remarkables,
Coronet Peak, Cardrona and Treble Cone.
New Zealand has two major ski resorts on
the North Island and seven on its South
Island. Mount Ruapehu, New Zealand’s
largest active volcano is also the largest
ski resort in New Zealand.
(Inputs from powderhounds.com)
not confined to snow sports such as
husky rides and snowshoeing
Courmayeur
chocolate-box
is
the
epitome
Alpine
Fact file
of
Momentum have been running the
prettiness,
Lambert Smith Hampton Ski Challenge
faultlessly chic, without a Gallic shrug
in Courmayeur every year, besides
in sight, and Italian to the tips of its
the City Ski Championships in Crans-
inhabitants’ immaculately Ferragamo-
Montana in March, and a ski festival
shod toes that trot the ancient cobbled
in February.
streets of the Via Roma. Here the ski
Off-piste skiing is a comparatively
instructors of the official ski school
unusual activity amongst Italians, who
are kitted out in Armani jackets and
take the attitude that anyone who snubs
even the snowboarders eschew grunge
their slopes of perfect groomed corduroy
because their mothers have made them
in favour of untameable wilderness
dress nicely.
must be either unhinged or ungrateful.
This is the sort of town where
Indeed police will chase, fine and ban
the number of Cashmere shops is
anyone they find in such terrain without
disproportionate to its size, where
the correct equipment.
the confections of pastry parlours are
mentioned in national guide-books, and
Aosta Valley – the quiet slope
three-year-olds deposited in the local
The Aosta Valley maintains a certain
crèche are escorted to long mountain
reticence about its own charms that
lunches by day-carers.
contrast with Chamonix’s image as the
With its 26 years presence in
the
resort,
Momentum
Ski
is
to
skiers and cliff-droppers. Its off-piste
terrain is consequently little visited.
to Chamonix. Indeed much of the resort’s
Besides
success redounds to the pioneering offices
among the Aosta Valley’s most eminent
of its dynamic director, Amin Momen.
is the fearless Gianni Carbone UIAGM, a
What this specialist company does not
man with no remaining knee ligaments,
know about providing the ultimate
who will skip down a 40o pitch of
tailor-made holiday in this most stylish
gnarly, chopped-up old rubbish as if he
of destinations may be written on the
was just popping to the shops.
30
Courmayeur’s
Celebrated
routes
own
include
guides,
Toula
is
Glacier from 3,600 metres and the
the party break for hard-working,
breathtaking Vallee Blanche, accessed via
hard-playing
Somethings-in-the-City
either side of the Mont Blanc. There are
whose favourite form of downtime is
also many lesser-known and unglaciated
— simply more downhill. Should you
routes with variations such as the Cresta
require a perfectly-swept giant slalom
d’Arp Couloir. The heli-skiing areas
course set to world cup standards with
include stupendous mountains around
at least 25 gates, then Momentum will
Val Veny and descents from the Piccolo
commandeer a whole run, complete
San Bernardo pass at La Thuile and the
with race paddock and hospitality tent.
Rutor glacier down into St Foy. This is
Momentum’s
corporate
forte
Chamonix: Ski Weekend’s Chalet Jumelles
sleeps up to 12 people. Depending on the
time of year, prices vary between £6,000
and £12,000 for four nights. This includes
half-board, transport to and from the resort
and transport in-resort and a variety of ski
hosting options. Individual bookings are
available from £699 per person to include
the above with additional tailor-made
options for guiding.
Contact: 0044 (0) 1392 878353;
skiweekend.com
ultimate hardcore venue for extreme
Courmayeur what Ski Weekend is
back of a lift pass.
Getting there: SWISS flies daily to Geneva
from Mumbai and Delhi and Hong Kong,
with early morning arrivals for all flights.
Swiss operates regular flights every
2-3 hours out of two London airports
(London City and Heathrow, and from
all European capitals. A recently-added
Singapore route is scheduled to
commence in May).
Courmayeur: Prices at the Auberge de la
Maison range from 300 Euros per night
half-board for a Superior Double to 500
Euros for a suite.
Contact: 0039 0165 869811;
aubergemaison.it
Heli-skiing: It costs around 200 Euros
per person per drop but this is only for
extremely strong off-piste skiers as there
are several no-fall zones. guidealpine@
courmayeur.com
Contact: Momentum Ski 0044 (0)207 371
9111; momentumski.com
only for extremely good off-piste skiers
as there are several no-fall zones.
In terms of piste, the resort is small
but perfectly formed, with 70 km of
varied slopes and gradients. There are
four black runs, and another planned
for 2015, and a number of testing pistes
Indian snow fields
which belie their official blue and red
status. There is also a Fun Park with
CORBIS
By Ranee Sahaney
a respectable assortment of serious
jumps (should you wish to get down
with the kids) and an expanse of free
I
ndia’s snow fields are fast becoming
games — a huge draw for professionals
ride
one of the most attractive destinations
and amateurs.
by Swatch.
competition
terrain
sponsored
for the global skiing community. It not
The daring but pretty expensive sport
Momentum, who host roughly one
only has some of the finest ski slopes and
of heli-skiing is on offer as an adventure
small group of corporate skiers a week,
fabulous powders for snowboarding, it’s
sport-cum-cultural experience in the
will also tailor-make individual luxury
also one of the most inexpensive places
stunning environs of Gulmarg and also
breaks of any length, organising flights
to ski and learn this thrilling sport.
Manali surrounds such as Hanuman
and co-ordinating transfers at the drop
The powerful pull of those fabulously
Tibba, Deo Tibba, Rohtang Pass and
of a hat. Besides hosting on-piste clients
pristine Himalayan vistas is an intrinsic
Chandrakhani Pass. In the past couple
around the quietest slopes, they also
ingredient to a hugely rewarding skiing
of years, the number of snowboarding
know the best of Courmayeur’s hidden-
holiday in some of India’s most favoured
tourists has almost doubled. The word
away restaurants.
winter resorts — the alpine highland
being out in the global arena is that some
Momentum’s favourite hotel is the
of Gulmarg and hill station Patnitop in
of the world’s best powders are to be had
Auberge de la Maison, which, though
Jammu and Kashmir, the gorgeous winter
at Gulmarg.
only 20-years-old, incorporates the
playfields of Manali, Kufri, Narkanda
The ski slopes of Gulmarg are accessed
graceful vernacular of the town so
and Rohtang Pass in Himachal and the
by the world’s highest gondola ski lift set
convincingly into its design, with its vast
splendid Himalayan meadows (bugyals)
up by Poma (the world-renowned French
open fire and low beams that it could
of Auli, Dayara Bugyal, Bedini Bugyal
firm) all the way up to the virgin ski
easily pass for one of Courmayeur’s
and Munsiyari in Uttarakhand. From
slopes of Mt. Apharwat. Auli is equipped
traditional buildings.
the snow slopes of Auli, skiers can feast
with both a 500 metre-long chair lift
Unlike many ski resorts which
their eyes on the panoramas of the snowy
and world-class 800 metre long ski lift,
are of limited interest to non-skiers,
Nanda Devi range.
the longest in the country. The ski patrol
teams
rigorous
not confined to snow sports. It has
months for skiing, places like Auli are
training in avalanche rescues and medical
exhilarating husky rides, snowshoeing
ideal even uptil May.
aid by international instructors and
and fifteen minutes away at Pre St.
mountain guides.
Didier, there is also an ancient thermal
While January to March are the best
Skiing in India is run by professional
outfitters, with the state governments
providing excellent support in terms of
world-class facilities, maintenance of
ski slopes and equipment, and in terms
of conducting skiing courses under
professional tutelage. Both Gulmarg and
Auli are the venues of international winter
32
have
undergone
Top: Skiers skin up a hill in Gulmarg, Kashmir
Getting there: Skiing destinations in
Uttarakhand, Himachal Pradesh and Jammu
& Kashmir are easily accessible from Delhi
by air, rail and road.
Accommodation: Stay at The Leela Palace
New Delhi or The Leela Kempinski Gurgaon.
spring which locals use to chill.
Swimming in a series of natural
granite Jacuzzis, snow falling, heat
scintillating on drifts above the water,
while the wooded mountain escarpment
rises all around — why, it’s almost as
good as skiing.
Travel
Home to the world’s best
tea, at the Himalayan
hill station of Darjeeling,
you’re greeted by acres
of tea gardens, a toy
train, colonial bungalows
and British era tea rooms
and bakeries, finds out
Anjana Paresh Parikh
What is this life if, full of care,
We have no time to stand and stare.
No time to stand beneath the boughs
And stare as long as sheep or cows.
No time to see, when woods we pass,
Where squirrels hide their nuts in grass.
No time to see, in broad daylight,
Streams full of stars, like skies at night...
— William Henry Davies
A
desire to step away from the city’s hustle-bustle
and enjoy the simple pleasures of life prompted me to
Queen of the hills
take a trip to Darjeeling, hailed as the ‘Queen of the
hills.’ To be in the lap of snow-clad Himalayas, hear
the gurgling of streams, watch the play of colours at
sunrise, wake up to the smell of fresh Darjeeling tea…
Darjeeling
I
had
enough
reason
to
find
comfort
in
nature’s
bounteous terrain.
Picture perfect
Concrete buildings and chaotic thoroughfares gave way to
British-style wooden bungalows, green mountains cloaked
by tea gardens and giant flowering rhododendron trees
bursting in red pink and white colours against the mighty
mountains, during the two hour long drive from the bustling
city of Siliguri to Darjeeling, West Bengal’s picturesque
hill station.
The land of the muscatel-flavoured tea, revered by
connoisseurs across the globe, Darjeeling is now the cynosure
of the entire nation, thanks to the recent award-winning
Bollywood flick, Barfi, which was shot here.
Winding my way on hairpin bends and braving the chilly
breeze, a 40 minute drive further brings me to Margaret’s
Hope tea estate near Kurseong. I am seeking a cup of pure
Darjeeling tea. Nestled in this beautiful town, Margaret’s Hope
has cast a spell over tea lovers for several years. The intriguing
name has a story behind it, and it dates back to the 1930s.
CORBIS
The tea garden owner, Bagdon, named it after his younger
34
Left: A worker plucking tea leaves at a tea plantation in Darjeeling
35
CORBIS
The Batasia Loop as seen from the heritage steam engine train run by the Darjeeling Himalayan Railway
daughter, Margaret, who was in love with the tea estate and
through the verdant green landscape and a forest full of pine
had died due to an illness when she was travelling to England.
trees, ferns, orchids and lichens.
As I watch the captivating mist-laden clouds and the fog
sailing past from the estate windows, a cup of hot, golden
Ghoom is surreal. This station has attracted several
filmmakers, who have used it as a location in their films.
liquor with a tingling aroma of Darjeeling tea is served. The
I drive past colonial bungalows and quaint little wooden
‘Champagne of Tea,’ as Darjeeling tea is popularly known, has
houses with entrances edged by a vibrant floral display —
the flavour of Muscatel grapes and, I am told, is best had raw,
marigold, gladiolus, magnolias and rhododendrons. Nowhere
without adding milk or sugar.
else, but in Darjeeling, can a traveller enjoy looking at a
As I drive further uphill, I reach Ghoom (the highest
combination of sublime mountain peaks, rows of tea gardens,
railway station in Asia) and get a glimpse of the Darjeeling toy
a British way of life and the natural beauty of a town in just
train chugging along the narrow gauge, huffing and whistling
a couple of hours.
Tea time at The Leela Palace New Delhi
Black tea: Known for its rich
aroma and flavour.
English breakfast: A classical fullbodied breakfast tea blended with
rich, smooth flavour.
Earl Grey: An elegant classic that
incorporates the most flavourful
China tea and first pressed oils
of Bergamot.
Black currant: Rich China black
tea infused with black currants
and blackberry leaves.
Decaf breakfast: Decaf and
elegantly simple from Sri Lanka.
Darjeeling: The delicate aroma
of pristine alpine forests with an
undercurrent of roasting nuts.
Bombay Chai: Spicy, yet wellbalanced, this is a full-bodied
blend of black teas flavoured with
rare Indian spices.
White tea: The purest of tea with
delicate flavours.
White ambrosia: Fine tea infused
with fruits, vanilla and coconut.
Green tea: Known for its health
benefits and flavours.
Oasis: This blend of fine green
tea, spring flowers and citrus
boasts a delicate character.
Jasmine green: The scent of the
night blooming jasmine flower
captured in a light green tea.
African solstice: This rooibos
blend is a light, fruity, antioxidant-rich herbal tisane and
has flavours of vanilla.
Chamomile citron: Shades
of citrus and vanilla add to
the relaxing qualities of this
wonderful tisane.
Ginger and lemongrass: The
lively character of sweet ginger
and lemon smoothens the spirit,
while black pepper heightens the
afterglow.
Flora: Soft fruit notes of hibiscus
flowers and cinnamon sticks, clear
and enticing to the eyes, as they
are to the palate.
Citrus mint: Provides a chill that
warms your spirit and amplifies
the enjoyment of any meal.
Dessert tea: Sweet, decadent and
complete indulgence.
Belgian mint: Cocoa beans and
peppermint perfectly balanced
to create an infusion of tempting
aroma and a finish reminiscent of
chocolate mint cookies.
Raspberry nectar: Succulent as a
basket of hand-picked raspberries,
ripened to perfection.
Orchid vanilla: Blend of fine
black tea, Madagascar vanilla and
coconut slivers.
Vienna cinnamon: Cinnamon
blended with black tea to create a
unique, spicy, yet sweet balance.
Afternoon high tea: Includes a
choice of tea, coffee, cookies,
scones, sandwiches and pastries.
It is priced at `900.
(Price `350 per pot. Government taxes are applicable. No service charge levied)
36
After a day’s rest, I wake up before dawn to catch a
glimpse of Mt. Kanchenjunga from, where else, but the
famous Tiger Hill. I am lucky enough to witness the most
wonderful dawn with golden sun rays falling over pure white
Mt. Kanchenjunga and other Himalayan peaks at around four
in the morning. In Darjeeling, people flock to the Tiger Hill
before dawn to catch this magical moment of nature. As the
Left: A snow covered St. Andrew’s Church in the Mall area
is an old Anglican church built in 1843. It has brass plaques
glorifying some of the oldest residents of Darjeeling
Above: A view of the scenic hill station with snow-capped
Mt. Kanchenjunga in the backdrop
sun rises on the horizon, Mt. Kanchenjunga seems bathed in
shades of gold, orange and yellow, in a spectacular play of
Back in time
light and colours.
Darjeeling derives its name from the Tibetan words, dorje,
Later in the day, while walking down Mall Road starting
from Chowrasta — the most prominent place in this hill
38
which means thunderbolt, and ling, or a place or land.
Darjeeling translates to mean, ‘the land of the thunderbolt.’
town, I notice smiling faces of natives, comprising the
It was during the British Raj that Darjeeling’s temperate
Gorkhas and Tibetans, along with a fair sprinkling of Bengalis
climate led to its development as a hill station. The British
and Marwaris.
residents sought to escape from the summer heat of Calcutta
A sumptuous breakfast at Keventers, comprising its must-
(now Kolkata), the erstwhile capital of the British empire. The
have baked beans, toast with pork, and chicken sausages
development of Darjeeling as a sanatorium and health resort
accompanied by a pot of Darjeeling tea and dollops of the
proceeded briskly. Arthur Campbell, a surgeon with the East
scenic beauty, reminds me of singer Jimi Hendrix’s words,
India Company, and Lieutenant Robert Napier, were responsible
“We have time, there’s no big rush.”
for such a development.
You can also stop by at the colonial, two-storied building,
It is home to Tenzing Norgay, also known as Sherpa
Glenary’s restaurant, famous for its scrumptious pastries,
Tenzing, the first man to successfully climb the world’s highest
cakes and, of course, tea.
mountain peak, Mt. Everest, with Edmund Hillary in 1953.
A train ride through the clouds
The Darjeeling Himalayan Railway, a UNESCO designated
World Heritage Site, runs a toy train that leaves the Darjeeling
railway station at around 8:30 am daily. There are regular two
hour joy rides offered by the Darjeeling Himalayan Railways
on its toy trains, for those who miss out on the seven and a
half hour long journey from New Jalpaiguri to Darjeeling.
The narrow gauge train with steam
engine makes a round trip to Ghoom
via Batasia. People can hop in and
out of the moving train. On the way
to Ghoom, the train passes through
Batasia Loop, which has a memorial
with an elevation ranging from 3,200 ft near the Burra
Bungalow (original planter’s bungalow) and going down to
800 ft where the Rungeet and Rung Dung rivers flow through
the estate. It straddles a 1,000 acres forest area, known as
Simbong. The area under tea cultivation is about 390 acres.
The bio-organic tea garden produces mainly Darjeeling green
tea. The two plush bungalows and four suite rooms offer
The narrow gauge train with steam engine makes a round
sweeping views of the mountains.
trip to Ghoom via Batasia. People can hop in and out of the
especially the Tibetan wolf, snow leopard and the red panda),
Apart from taking care of your food and stay, Glenburn
moving train.
the Ropeway, the Lebong Race Course, the Tibetan Refugee Self
offers a tour of its tea gardens, organises customised hikes like
Help Centre and the Natural History Museum that displays
the Orange Orchard walk, the River Rung Dung walk, a day
insects, birds and animals of the region.
trip to Darjeeling or Kalimpong, fishing on river Rungeet, and
On the way to Ghoom, the train passes through the
Batasia Loop, which has a memorial dedicated to the brave
Gorkha soldiers. From here, the spectacular view of Darjeeling
Downtown or Chowk Baazar is colourful and vibrant.
town and Mt. Kanchenjunga is simply unforgettable. It
After you buy tea (Nathmulls at Chowrasta is your best bet),
The three hour tea garden tour is an eye opener. Packed
reminds me of author Mark Twain’s words, who, on visiting
thangkas (painting on silk depicting a Buddhist deity) and
with information on the history of the area, its flora and
the Himalayan town in 1896 wrote, “The one land that all
souvenirs, don’t forget to add the local hard cheese or chhurpi
fauna and, of course, on Darjeeling tea, the estate manager
men desire to see, and having seen once — by even a glimpse,
to your shopping basket. Made of yak milk and roasted in
takes you through the entire process of tea making — from
would not give that glimpse for the shows of the rest of the
smoke, it has a peculiar, inexplicable taste and is extremely
the plucking of the leaves, drying, rolling, to the final sorting
world combined.”
hard. Not for those who have tooth problems, this cheese
and packaging. A tea tasting session follows, where you can
needs to be kept in the mouth to moisten it, to let parts of it
discover the aroma, flavours and distinct quality of the first
soften, and then chew it like gum.
flush, second flush, and the different types of Darjeeling tea
the popular seven points. My first stop, the Japanese Temple
and Peace Pagoda, built during the World War I. The serene
and tranquil atmosphere and the drum beats vibrating
Tea garden tour
through the walls of the temple have a calming effect and
I visit Glenburn Tea Estate, located 15 miles away from
touch a chord within. The other points include the Himalayan
Darjeeling. Perched on the side of a hill facing Mt. Kanchenjunga,
Mountaineering
Himalayan
Glenburn is a colonial tea estate and an upscale one to boot.
Zoological Park (famous for breeding animals in captivity,
Sprawled over 1,600 acres, the entire estate is on a hill slope
Institute,
Padmaja
Naidu
Tourists enjoy walking past the
circular Darjeeling Mall Road
covered with colourful flowers
On my way back to town, I complete my tour by visiting
even river rafting.
and is much like a wine tasting session.
I can now proudly say, I know my Darjeeling.
The route: Bagdogra is the nearest airport to Darjeeling and
it takes three and a half hours to reach the town. Bagdogra is
well-connected with cities like Delhi and Kolkata.
Tea menu at The Leela Palace Udaipur
Darjeeling: The ‘Champagne’
of teas. The tippy orthodox leaf
produces light amber liquor with
a heady aroma of lemony fruit
and green grapes and the highest
notes of muscatel.
English Breakfast: This tea is a
traditional blend of select teas
originating from Assam, Ceylon
and Kenya. A full bodied, strong
tea with an aroma of ripe fruits
with pungent overtones.
Masala Chai: A blend of premium
black tea with original pieces,
Indian sub continental spices and
herbs. It is full-bodied,aromatic
with a warm aftertaste of spices.
Earl Grey: Named after the
popular politician, the 2nd Earl
Grey, who popularised the tea
after a visit to China. It is a full
bodied tea with a distinct natural
bergamot flavour.
Jasmine Blossom: This popular
green tea is scented with rich
fragrant night-flowering jasmine.
The flowers are thickly layered
on top of fine quality green tea,
which has been stored since
spring, waiting for summer
when jasmine blooms and is
most fragrant. The process is
repeated until the tea is imbued
with fragrance.
Green Sencha: Green sencha
comes from the early growth of
the tea bushes; the young leaves
are carefully plucked and then
subjected to very hot steam to
generate the unique taste. The
liquor has a clear, light yellow
green hue, good body and
delicious rice flavours.
Genmaicha: A blend of Sencha
green tea and popped rice
kernels. It was originally made
by poor peasants in Japan who
wanted their tea to last longer;
the nutty flavour of the brew is
unique and easily recognisable.
Peppermint: The gentle herbal
aroma of the peppermint
leaves is transformed on
infusion. Almost spicy when
first sipped, the pre-dominant
flavour sensation is that of a
penetratingly cool and clear
mint with a refreshingly clean
aftertaste.
Ginger Lemon: An unusual yet
refreshing blend of ginger, lemon
grass, lemon peel, peppermint
and liquorice root, gives us a
wonderful caffeine-free infusion.
Combined citrus and ginger
flavours give way to a tingly
ginger aftertaste.
Rosehip & Hibiscus: The blend of
Rosehip, the fruits of a wild dog
rose and hibiscus yield a rich red
cup, which is sharp and tangy on
the palate. Hibiscus is known for
its flowering beauty, which have
been used for centuries in Hindu,
Chinese and Western herbalism.
Tulsi Mint: Tulsi provides an
aromatic and delicious taste in
herbal infusions. Tulsi mint is a
bright cup with a sweet initial
flavour and a piquant aftertaste
of aloe vera and spearmint
making it a refreshing and
invigorating herbal infusion to be
relished any time of the day.
Chamomile: Like all other herbal
infusions, chamomile is 100 per
cent caffeine-free. The infused
flowers have a heady aroma of
hay and floral, grassy flavour. The
taste of sun-baked apples carries
through to a gentle finish.
Rooibos Strawberry Honey:
Grown only in South Africa,
Rooibos is the Dutch word
for ‘red bush’ and this shrub
produces a refreshing caffeine
free bright russet liquor.
Silver Needle: Silver needle is
a rare white tea, made from the
unfurled leaf buds or “tips” of
the tea bush. It is produced each
spring in the Fujian province.
(All varieties are priced at `275 per pot. Government taxes are applicable)
40
41
Literary
B
anker-turned-writer, Amish Tripathi’s Shiva Trilogy
is based on the premise that Hindu gods were not mythical
beings but creatures in flesh and blood who achieved godhood
through their karma, i.e. their deeds. This take on Indian myths
and the ancient Indian culture makes them seem relevant to
modern-day readers.
Amish’s (he doesn’t use his surname in his books) first
book, The Immortals of Meluha’s film right has been acquired by
noted Indian filmmaker Karan Johar. It is likely to star famous
actor Hrithik Roshan as Lord Shiva. The second novel, The Secret
of the Nagas, has crossed a print run of a million copies. The
latest one, The Oath of the Vayuputras, with its sky rocketing
sales has prompted its publisher, Westland Press, to pay an
advance amount of `5 crore ($1 million approximately) for
Author Amish Tripathi’s
latest book and his
concluding one in the
Shiva Trilogy, The Oath of
The Vayuputras, sold five
lakh copies within a day of
release in February this year.
In a tête-à-tête, he tells us
what fascinates him about
Lord Shiva and shares his
views on Indian mythology
the south Asian rights for the next series that he would pen. It
Voice of
Shiva
is touted as the biggest advance paid to an Indian author by a
home grown publishing firm. Amish confesses that he has no
By Sujata Dugar
idea regarding the subject for his next novel.
and shaped our thought process, and have always been an
What made you choose Lord Shiva as the subject to
integral part of our culture for centuries. However, in the last
base your trilogy on?
200-300 years, our subjugation as a colony, saw our society’s
I find Lord Shiva an exciting god to write about. He exudes
morale taking a beating and our confidence levels were so low
immense passion, has a seductive charm and is a democratic
that we forgot to appreciate our own culture and tradition. We
god — by this I mean, he doesn’t differentiate between people
were made to feel inferior and unworthy. However, in the last
as being high or low born, treats all his devotees as one, treats
few decades, India has emerged as a strong economic power.
his wife as an equal and in the traditional form you will
The confidence is back and this finds reflection in the way we
always see his consort Parvati sitting next to him as an equal,
perceive things. Our entrepreneurial skills and our rebellious
and not below or on a lower pedestal. He never ‘punishes’ his
attitude are its upshot. We are regaining our confidence, and
wife when she opposes him. On the contrary, he is always
our myths are seeing a revival and finding expression through
supportive of anything she says or does. He is a fierce warrior,
these contemporary interpretations.
a passionate lover, a devoted husband, the finest intellectual,
a brilliant dancer, has dreadlocks, and has a “cool persona” as
Name some of the mythological books that are also
one would state in modern-day terminology. I began writing
your favourite?
the book as a philosophical treatise on the nature of evil. It
I am a voracious reader and read all kinds of books on
got converted into an adventure to convey that philosophy.
mythology, philosophy and history. In the non-fiction
It then struck me that if I were writing an adventure story to
category, I enjoyed reading Diana L. Eck’s India: A Sacred
convey that philosophy, then who better to be the hero, than
Geography and End of Faith written by Sam Harris.
the destroyer of evil himself — Lord Shiva.
The movie right of your first book in the trilogy, The
42
There has been a surge in mythological books in the last
Immortals of Meluha, has been bought by director Karan
few years. What would you attribute this to?
Johar. Have you been approached by anyone else from
Yes, it is true that in the recent past we have witnessed a surge
the Indian film industry for the film rights of the sequels?
in the number of books re-interpreting mythological tales.
Karan Johar has bought the movie rights for The Immortals
It is because, we, as a country, have had a rich tradition of
Of Meluha and he has the option to use the sequels for
myths. They were a part of our growing years, influenced
film adaptation.
43
What is your next
I have grown up reading
series? Will it be based
a lot of mythological
on Indian mythology
tales
and history as the
books, and was brought
earlier trilogy?
up in an environment
I have a few ideas in mind
where they were part of
but nothing definite as
our learning experience.
of now. However, it will
I
certainly be within the
books. However, I don’t
domain of mythology,
make an attempt to
history and philosophy.
sit down and research
These are subjects that
on a particular subject
interest me and I am
while writing, as that
passionate about.
tends to distract me
read
from
Do
you
believe
in
and
all
the
religious
kinds
of
storyline.
So, for me, research
religion? Are you a religious person and follow the
and writing are two completely different phases. I learn
rituals associated with it?
a lot by interacting with people and visiting different
I was born in a very religious and liberal Hindu family.
cultures. For instance, in the book, The Secret of the Nagas, I
My siblings and I learnt about our religion, myths and
have described the gates of Branga. The inspiration came
philosophies during our growing years. We were never forced
from something I had learnt on a trip to Greece many
to believe everything that was told to us. Being part of a liberal
years ago.
family, we were allowed, in fact encouraged, to ask questions
made columnist Anil Dharker term the book launch as
video to hold the reader’s interest. Bound versions of the first
a “literary phenomenon.” What are the promotional
chapter of the novel were introduced across city bookstores. I
and challenge things which didn’t make sense. The exchange
Each of your book has seen an unconventional
activities you have undertaken for each of your book?
also approached well-known personalities like Anil Dharker
of thoughts and healthy discussion helped us gain a better
promotional campaign. In fact, the latest novel’s release
Do you feel such strategies ensure a book’s success?
and adman Prahlad Kakkar to launch the book.
understanding of the subject. In fact, a lot of concepts that I
If any creative guy says that he knows the pulse of his
For my second novel, The Secret of the Nagas, I roped in
had grown up hearing have been clarified on re-reading those
reader or audience, he is surely far removed from reality.
Think WhyNot, a strategic creative agency, for the marketing
You can never predict or have a set formula for the success
of the book. Two trailers, similar to high quality film trailers,
of a book, a film or any creative work. You cannot write
were shown alongside the Shahrukh Khan starrer, Ra.One, in
a book after doing market research and then deciding on
all multiplexes. The book was released by actor Vivek Oberoi.
religious books. I am religious by nature and I feel it gives you
an inner strength and faith in the larger scheme of things.
As mentioned in your books, do you believe in the
concept that gods were first human beings?
There are various concepts in Indic religions about god. The
first is the nirgun, nirakar god, who is the formless Absolute.
The second is the aakaar god, where god has taken a form
such as that of Lord Shiva, Lord Vishnu or Lord Brahma.
The third is where god takes an avatar, such as Lord Ram or
Lord Krishna. There is a fourth concept of god, where a man
discovers the god within — Aham Brahmasmi. I find this last
concept very inspiring. That is what I’ve tried to build up in
my books through the concept of Har Har Mahadev i.e. all of
us are Mahadevs (gods).
What kind of research do you do before you set out to
write these mythological tales?
44
As a writer, you need to be honest with yourself,
your idea, and the whole process of writing the book
Shiva Trilogy | Cover to cover
Rashmi Pusalkar designed the covers of all the three novels in
the Shiva trilogy as per Tripathi’s specifications.
In the first book, The Immortals of Meluha, she portrayed
the back profile of Shiva, who is standing in front of a huge
lake. The challenge was to show Shiva in human form, in flesh
and blood and as a vulnerable individual. She showed the
back, because Indian gods are never seen with their backs
in sight. He has battle scars and yet a sculpted physique.
The scenery behind Shiva’s image is of Mount Kailash and
Mansarovar Lake.
In The Secret of the Nagas, Lord Shiva is seen holding a
snake and looking at the river banks near the city of Kashi.
On the cover of The Oath of the Vayuputras, you’ll see
Shiva as the wielder of Pinaka, the legendary bow of the god
according to mythology, and behind him is a burning bush.
The colour scheme applied on the cover changes from title
to title. The dull hue on The Immortals of Meluha gives way to
brighter shades in The Oath of the Vayuputras, signifying the
triumph of good over evil.
its subject. As a writer, you need to be honest with yourself,
For my third book, The Oath of the Vayuputras, we leveraged
your idea, and the whole process of writing the book. But, once
on the Indian passion for music. A music album called
you’ve completed writing it, it is fair and sensible to be pragmatic
Vayuputras, an original soundtrack based on the Shiva Trilogy
and promote it to the best of your ability so that you can reach
books, was released. It has 10 original songs sung by artists
out to a larger audience. If a good product (in this case a book)
like Sonu Nigam, Taufiq Qureshi, Palash Sen and Bickram
is not promoted well, it is surely going to fail in terms of
Ghosh, among others.
financial success.
We also launched a high quality music video which
We have adopted certain marketing tools to reach out to
is being telecast through popular television channels and
a wider audience. For the first novel, The Immortals of Meluha
across all social media platforms. The music video very
(it was initially rejected by over 20 publishing houses), we
broadly communicates the journey of the three books of
distributed the first chapter of the book as a free sampler and
the Shiva Trilogy in a five minute span. I’ve been told that
as free digital downloads from my website, to generate interest
this was the first time ever that an original soundtrack was
among readers. With the help of musician Taufiq Qureshi, we
made for a book’s series. For the book launch, film director
launched a live action trailer film on YouTube and built an
Shekhar Kapur, actress Kajol, and columnist Anil Dharker
online community on Facebook and Twitter surrounding the
were invited.
45
Tribute
Ode to
Indian
Cinema
By Udita Jhunjhunwala
T
Four contemporary Indian filmmakers
come together to create Bombay Talkies,
an anthology film that weaves in four
short films directed by them, to celebrate
Indian cinema’s centenary year
The idea
Bollywood demigods like Amitabh Bachchan. Every Sunday,
his year, May 3 marks 100 years since that historic day
Co-producer Ashi Dua of Flying Unicorn Entertainment,
fans from all around the world gather outside his Mumbai
when Raja Harishchandra became the first full-length Hindi
who conceptualised Bombay Talkies before partnering with
home, for a glimpse of their screen idol. Kashyap first wrote
language feature film to be released. To commemorate the
Viacom 18, said, “For this momentous occasion we wanted
a script based on this in 1999. He wished to get Bachchan
centenary of Indian cinema, four contemporary Indian
to do something with archival value. The concept was to
to feature in it, but circumstances willed otherwise. It took
filmmakers, with diverse styles and distinct voices, have come
bring together brilliant but dramatically different filmmakers
100 years of cinema and a concept called Bombay Talkies for
together under the unifying title, Bombay Talkies. Anurag
of our age and watch them create their own interpretation
Kashyap to make a film on what he sees as “fandom, impact
Kashyap, Dibakar Banerjee, Karan Johar and Zoya Akhtar
of a single theme — exploring their love for cinema.”
of cinema and its biggest phenomenon (Bachchan)”. Kashyap
have helmed four short films that will together form a two-
Music by Amit Trivedi will bind the disparate works.
added, “My film is a coming of age journey via what touches
our lives and sometimes shapes it. It’s a sweet/funny story
hour long feature film. The four fictional shorts (each under
46
30 minutes in length) in this portmanteau, look at cinema and
The stories
of a fan who thinks he has a right over his star, and of the
its impact on everyday life.
Anurag Kashyap’s film encapsulates the ‘fandom’ surrounding
security guards, who are celebrities in their own right because
47
they guard that house. It’s my
is the first time he has directed
tribute to the cinema I grew up on
a short) and the pre-assigned
and the dreams they created.”
budget. “This is the first time in
Dibakar Banerjee’s contribution
my 15 year career that I have
to this compendium is based
shot on Mumbai’s streets on such
on Satyajit Ray’s short story,
a controlled budget,” he said. His
Potol Babu Film Star. It’s about a
film features Bollywood actors
common man’s brush with fame.
Rani Mukherjee, Randeep Hooda
“I have taken a contemporary
and Saqib Saleem. “It’s about a
Mumbai
this
husband and wife and a young lad
intimate, moving, human story,
who turns their life upside down.
which is unlike anything I have
Cinema’s connection to the story
done so far,” said Banerjee. His
is through music. The content is
short is about a man searching
interpersonal relationships, but
for a story. “In a society where
old Hindi film music forms the
people’s dreams remain unfulfilled,
spine of the emotions,” he added.
cinema comes closest to fulfilling
Zoya Akhtar’s film explores
setting
to
tell
all those dreams,” he explained.
the power of stars as well as
The two biggest challenges faced
the reach, impact and magic
by Karan Johar while directing his
of movies in India. Says she,
short film were the length (this
“Mine is about a little boy
Past Forward 100 Years
Ten films recommended
by the Bombay Talkies
filmmakers to bring you
up to speed with the best
of Indian cinema
1. Pyaasa
2. Kaagaz Ke Phool
3. Do Bigha Zameen
4. Awaara
5. Teesri Manzil
6. Sholay
7. Arth
8. Parinda
9. Dilwale Dulhania
Le Jayenge
10. Lagaan
Dilwale Dulhania Le Jayenge
Awaara
48
Teesri Manzil
Pyaasa
Then and now
While the four featured filmmakers agree that cinema has
made great technical progress in the last century, they concur
that somewhere along the way, between the 70s and the
present, a story-telling tradition has been lost. Says Kashyap,
“A 100 years ago there was struggle, excitement, passion and
a sense of discovery. Now, we have lost some of that joy of
discovery, but the excitement, struggle and passion remain.
There are so many movies now that the feeling can’t be the
same. Earlier, every film was special, seeing images moving
was a high in itself. Then images found a voice. The voice went
Dolby and now the image has gone 3D.”
The second generation of a film making family, Johar is,
“passionate about my profession and about Hindi cinema. I
am excited about being a part of the industry, but I believe the
Rani Mukherjee stars in the Karan Johar
directed short film in Bombay Talkies
films of the 40s and 50s matter the most — the films of Guru
Dutt, Bimal Roy, K. Asif and Raj Kapoor, to name a few.”
who is not really understood by the adults in his life. It’s
Adds Akhtar, “In the past, films and their stories were
about his strange relationship with Katrina Kaif, who is
pegged in folklore or had social relevance to that time, but
like a fairy godmother to him. The film is about dreams.”
then cinema went up in the air and didn’t define any strata of
Ranvir Shorey also stars along with young actors Naman
society. However, I think it’s getting its groove back and it’s
and Khushi.
fantastic that I am here in its 100th year.”
Must-read books on Bollywood
Guru Dutt:
A Life in Cinema
Writer Nasreen
Munni Kabir looks at
the life and work of
the legendary actor
and his classic films
including Pyaasa,
Kaagaz Ke Phool and
Sahib Bibi Aur Ghulam.
50
Sholay: The Making
Of A Classic
Written by Anupama
Chopra, it is a
breezy read on the
making of one of
the greatest Indian
movies of all time. It
offers an insight into
the film’s production.
Cinema Modern:
The Navketan Story
Written by Sidharth
Bhatia, it is a detailed
record of the
production company
behind successful films
like Taxi Driver, Hare
Rama Hare Krishna
and Guide.
Bollywood’s Top 20:
Superstars of Indian
Cinema
Compiled by Bhaichand
Patel, it is a collection
of essays celebrating
Bollywood’s biggest screen
icons like Ashok Kumar,
Dilip Kumar, Amitabh
Bachchan, among others.
Bollywood: Popular
Indian Cinema
Edited by Lalit Mohan
Joshi, it has essays by
stalwarts like Gulzar
and Shyam Benegal,
besides others. An
ultimate guide on the
Hindi film industry, it
has rare images too.
Photo Essay
The castle city of Hirosaki is
an ideal place to soak in the
Japanese fervour around cherry
blossoms (sakura), reports
Lalit Sultan Farzdan
Flushing Pink
F
or the Japanese, the most striking beauty is that which is
the most transient. Something short-lived has a special tragic
quality, which gives it an ethereal appeal. Not to say that you
need to brood on a velvety carpet of fallen buds under the
canopy of lush white and pink flowers to really appreciate the
cultural symbol that has impressed so many foreign travellers
for centuries — the cherry blossoms. Starting as early as
January in Okinawa, to April or later in Hokkaido in the
north, a mesmerising burst of colours invades the countryside
with the orchards rendering the air a festive fervour. And there
is no better place on the archipelago to see this spectacle than
the city of Hirosaki, which is also known for its apples besides
the famous Hirayama-style castle.
Located in the Aomori prefecture towards the north of the
island of Honshu, the castle of Hirosaki was initially built in the
17th century and is regularly listed among the most famous
historical structures of Japan. Its donjon (fortified main tower
of a castle) was reconstructed in the 19th century, and all
of the outer walls and the structures surrounding the castle
A bird sits atop a
blooming cherry blossom
52
CORBIS
are national heritage monuments. What is most fascinating
however is when, during the Sakura Matsuri (Cherry Blossom
Festival), which regularly coincides with the Japanese Golden
53
Fumiaki Takano
For details, log on to: tmf.jp
Above: Pink cherry blossoms line the banks of a lake
Below: Blossoms line the pathway in Shinjuku Gyoen National Garden in Tokyo
Facing page: Beautiful cherry blossom blooms viewed against the snow-capped Mount Fuji
Week (end-April to early May and comprising numerous
holidays), lots of families arrive to spend a Hanami (meditative
picnic) under the magnificent blooms in the gardens of the
castle. The smell of grilled meat and Sake (rice beer) fills the air
as children waddle in ankle-thick mounds of flowers or choose
their favourite ones from among a selection of 2,600 cherry
trees, first planted in 1903.
Equally impressive are the blossoms at Himeji Castle, widely
considered Japan’s most spectacular castle. Unlike many other
Japanese castles, Himeji Castle was never destroyed in wars,
earthquakes or fires, and survives in its original form. It is
both a national treasure and a World Heritage Site declared
by UNESCO.
The blossoms at once symbolise the coming of the spring,
and the colossal circularity of things, principles which might
have something to do with the Buddhist heritage of this
island nation.
Latest archaeological research has, in fact, revealed that
there might have been an ancient Shinto shrine around the
edifice of the castle. Religion thus blends casually with good life,
and people venerate their cultural past as much as they adore
the natural beauty and its awe-inspiring splendour during the
change of seasons. This apart, the gentle, smiling folk, splendid
cuisine and mild climate, especially around the months of April
and May, make Hirosaki and Japan in general, a not to be
missed destination in 2013.
54
CORBIS
SHUTTERSTOCK
What exactly is the garden
of the 21st century? The
architects and planners of the
Tokachi Millennium Forest
(TMF) have sought to answer
this daunting question with
their path-breaking work in
the remote northern Japanese
island of Hokkaido. Designed
by Dan Pearson Studio and
Fumiaki Takano, TMF comprises
400 hectares of prime, sylvan
landscape located at altitudes
between 275 and 460 metres.
Inside the park, not only can
you experience a typical
Japanese larch forest, for
example, but also dine in a
farm restaurant that uses the
best of local produce to create
an eclectic, off-hand cuisine.
Besides green spaces such
as the Entrance Forest and
the Meadow Garden, various
national and international
artists such as Yoko Ono have
littered their installations
harmoniously around the
compound making it resemble
an enchanted enclosure.
Little wonder, then, that the
Society of Garden Designers
(SGD) gave it the Grand Award
for being the most beautiful of
all entries for the 2012 contest.
SHUTTERSTOCK
Millennium Garden
55
CHECKING OUT
Review
At 92,
the Karmayogi
Marches On
10 things you didn’t know about
The Leela Palace Udaipur
270
Despite retiring as Chairman of
Leela Hotels, Captain C. P. Krishnan
Nair still has his hands full
ome 70 years ago, C. P. Krishnan Nair believed his destiny
parcels and by diluting stakes in existing properties. And a
was to become a monk. Nair and one Balakrishna Menon,
new, asset light strategy is being put in place: to enter into
both of whom served in the Indian National Army, made a visit
management contracts that will bring in revenues with minimal
to Sivananda Saraswati, a spiritual teacher and proponent of
investments. What also keeps Nair stress-free is his daily
yoga and Vedanta, with the sole motive of joining his ashram.
routine of ayurvedic massages and a game of volleyball. And
The yogi held Menon’s hand as a gesture of acceptance but
the spirit to battle still burns bright. “Napolean had the guts
asked Nair to go back to the regular world and work.
to take his army to Russia; you can’t win a war, or become an
“The guru told me my path is that of a karmayogi (one who
achieves perfection via action).” Nair went back, married Leela,
Nair may be well into his 90s, but he has been a hotelier
for only just 27 years of his life. His first hotel, The Leela in
his part, went on to chart his own spiritual path, transforming
Mumbai, came up in the mid-80s, almost three decades after a
into Swami Chinmayananda and along with his devotees
stay at a Kempinski hotel in Budapest opened his eyes to the
formed the Chinmaya Mission to take Vedanta to the world.
opportunity of a luxury hotel chain in India.
At 92, Nair’s journey as a karmayogi is still incomplete. He
Nair continues to dream. “I want to explore tourism in
may have retired as Chairman of the Leela Group of Hotels
Bhutan and Sikkim as they are protected areas. I have a
earlier this month — with eldest son Vivek taking over as CMD
proposal to manage a property in Dubai,” he says.
quite walking into the sunset.
He says he still has unfinished/tasks — such as overseeing
the opening of six new hotels in Agra, Jaipur, Ashtamudi in
56
different if the founding fathers of the country had managed
to connect the rivers in India. “We have lost an opportunity
“wife Leela has asked me not to set up any more hotels and
to become equal to China. And we could have made a huge
trouble the kids. But their hands are also full now.”
difference if education for every child had been made
compulsory. A 100 IITs and an equal number of IIMs would
have helped India forge ahead of China.”
listed company, posted a loss of `291 crore, of which `282
Nair also thinks the managerial skills of retired army generals
crore is just interest cost. The group’s total debt is about of
can be put to better use, for projects that will reconstruct India.
`4,300 crore.
And to that inevitable question — can his sons emulate what
The good captain, however, is hardly fazed. The debt is
the founder of Leela Hotels achieved — the captain has a
within manageable limits, he asserts, and will be reduced by
predictable answer: “They are very clever and will do very well
selling non-core assets such as IT business parks and land
in the business.”
The Royal Suite has a
dome within it that has
genuine
gold leaf
work
is to build one such city in his home district of Kannur.
he is fondly addressed by friends. He does, however, add that
nine months ended December 2012, Hotel Leela Venture, the
- a rare colour to be used in thekri work.
mushrooming all over the country. And a plan close to his heart
make them, run them and manage them,” says the ‘captain’ as
Their hands are not full with just expansion plans. For the
GREEN
GLASS
His dreams go beyond hospitality. One of the more
Nair reckons the country’s destiny would have been totally
This article appeared in The Economic Times,
Kolkata, Saturday, 23 February 2013.
18,000
Rs
There is abundant use of
MOTHER-OFPEARL throughout the
Palace, such as in the headboards in every room.
The hotel features the
only luxury tented spa,
located in a
There are two trees of life featuring
cherished and ambitious ones is to see new, hi-tech cities
Kerala, Bangalore and Noida. His role in these ventures: “I will
Total 12 domes are there
in the hotel, including
two fibre-optic ones in
which every bulb costs
candles
in the niches of the inner
courtyard every evening.
army man.
and eventually started a garment export business. Menon, for
and Dinesh as co-chairman & MD of the group — but Nair isn’t
120
The staff light
empire unless one does something like this,” says the former
the daughter of a handloom owner in Kannur in north Kerala,
16
27
38
49
510
Elephants
(a symbol of purity & prosperity)
are crafted from silver, wood, metal,
stone and others - framed or
drawn - across the property.
By Lijee Philip & M Padmakshan, Mumbai
S
Checking out
Hotel Trivia
on it.
The hotel features a
150-YEAR-OLD
SHIVA TEMPLE
in its premises.
February 2013 | Hotelier India
This article appeared in Hotelier India, February 2013.
150-year-old
haveli,
beside the lake.
The MAHARANA
PRINTS are replicas of
the originals in the City Palace. They
were created after due approval of
the current Maharana.
Roshan Tiwari (senior boat
captain) and Sardar Singh
(doorman) have featured in the
famous James Bond movie
“Octopussy”
www.hotelierindia.com
82_Hi_Feb2013_checking out.indd 82
57
01-02-2013 21:11:05
Tradition
Oven fresh
Break bread the
traditional Indian
way — straight
from the griddle
and served hot on
the plate
A Rajasthani lady preparing roti,
the traditional Indian bread, on
a griddle at Sheesh Mahal
58
Enjoy a variety of local Indian bread like bajra roti, makki ki roti and missi roti
straight from the griddle. At Sheesh Mahal, the lakeside speciality restaurant at
The Leela Palace Udaipur, there is an attempt to go that extra mile to provide guests
an authentic Indian luxury experience through its local culinary servings. Here, the
chefs have conceptualised a novel method of serving authentic, local Rajasthani
breads at the restaurant. Not a chef but a local Rajasthani lady, clad in a beautiful
traditional attire, prepares these breads on a griddle that is made from the local red
clay, known to provide flavour and nutrition to the bread cooked on it. What more,
all the bread is made on a wood fired chulha (stove) and served with home churned
butter, jaggery and desi ghee (clarified butter). Whoever thinks luxury means an uber
chic lifestyle should come here to learn that luxury lies in the simplicity of things.
Oenophilia
The House of
Aishwarya Nair
Food & wine merchandising,
Krug
One of the rarest wines, the Krug
Clos d’Ambonnay, will soon be listed on
the wine list at The Leela Palace New Delhi,
the first ever listing of this wine in India
B
eing one of the foremost and prevalent names in
The House of Krug
pioneered the
concept of a luxury
Champagne house
hospitality today, The Leela Group prides itself
by associating with brands that have similar ethics.
Therefore, it is no wonder that the luxury Champagne
house — Krug, is well promulgated on our wine lists
across the country.
Founded by Joseph Krug, whose afflictive passion and
dedication is witnessed in the Champagne, the House
of Krug pioneered the concept of a luxury Champagne
A few notes on the
Krug Clos d’Ambonnay
by the house itself
house. Joseph Krug, a man before his time, transformed
the Champagne making process of the 19th century by
taking traditional Champagne making and exceeding the
confines of what was being practised, with the creation
Founder Joseph Krug
of Krug Grand Cuvée.
He did so by introducing the art of blending and using reserved wines of a particular
measure. This act in itself transformed the notion of a particular vintage and exposed
the immensity and an abundance of aromas and flavour for the taster to enjoy.
It is true, without doubt, that the Champagne house is “an ultimate expression
of Champagne” as it aspires to create a Champagne of “undisputed quality, rare
generosity and elegance.” Therefore, it is my pleasure to announce that one of the
most precious and rarest wines of the world, the Krug Clos d’Ambonnay, will shortly
be listed on our wine list at The Leela Palace New Delhi. This will be the first ever
listing of the wine on a wine list in India.
“Krug Clos d’Ambonnay celebrates with
the rarest of Champagnes the unique
character of a particular Pinot Noir grape
from a small, walled, 0.68 hectare plot
from the heart of Ambonnay, one of
the most distinguished villages for this
grape variety in Champagne, and one
which has played a very special role in
the life of the House of Krug. Krug Clos
d’Ambonnay reveals a personality with
significant presence, great substance
and an amazing length and finesse.”
60
Snapshot
Jet Set Go
Guess the Leela property
in this photograph
and win a luxurious
monogrammed bathrobe
from The Leela.
Send in your entry
along with your contact
details to:
theleelamagazine@
theleela.com.
All entries must be
sent before June 3, 2013.
A lucky draw from all the
correct entries will declare
the winner.
Previous contest’s
winner is:
Jyoti Shet, Manager,
Goldman Sachs
Guest Speak
Her Excellency
Yingluck
Shinawatra
His Royal
Highness
Prince Robert
The Leela Palace
New Delhi
“I had a wonderful
stay and hope to
come back again.”
The Leela Palace
Bangalore
“With thanks and
best wishes to
the kind staff at
the hotel.”
Prime Minister, Thailand
62
Sanjay Dutt
Actor
Prince of Luxembourg
The Leela Palace
Chennai
“It is one of the
best. I want to thank
the staff for making
me feel at home
and taking care of
me — Abhishek
looked after me like
family — also want
to thank Sreekant
and Nirmal and the
staff in the gym.”
T K A Nair
IAS
Advisor to the Prime
Minister of India
The Leela Mumbai
“Thanks for
looking after me
very well. Manoj
was polite and
nice and Rishikesh
was all service
with a smile.
Keep up the high
standard and
fly high.”
Kalyani Saha
Chawla
Vice President-Marketing
& Communications,
Christian Dior
The Leela
Kempinski
Gurgaon
“The hotel’s spa
is one of the best.
What an amazingly
rejuvenating
afternoon.”
Arjan Singh
Marshal of the Indian
Air Force
The rooftop swimming pool at
The Leela Palace New Delhi
The Leela Kovalam
“It is a wonderful
resort which
attracts visitors
from all over
the world. The
standard and
service are
commendable. I
congratulate
its staff.”
Vikram Shroff
Executive Director
United Phosphorus Ltd.
What makes your stay at The Leela Palace New Delhi
Name your favourite restaurant in the hotel and mention
unique?
what sets it apart?
The location is perfect. The size is right and the staff,
Megu and it’s simply because of its excellent food and
very personal. The dining and bar options are the
superb ambience.
best in the city.
What is the one thing that brings you back to the hotel each
What is the most distinctive element of the hotel?
time?
Its luxurious rooms.
The staff service.
63
Accolades
High five
The Leela Palace New Delhi kick-started 2013 by bagging
five prestigious awards given by the world’s largest and most
trusted travel website, TripAdvisor, at the 2013 Travellers’
Choice Hotel Awards. The hotel was recognised as one
amongst the Top Big and Luxury Hotels in Asia and Top Big,
Service and Luxury Hotels in India. These annual awards
are based on the millions of valuable reviews and opinions
obtained from travellers across India and the world. The
awards were conferred at an exclusive by-invitation soiree in
Son of soil feted
the presence of stalwarts from the hospitality industry.
Padma Bhushan Captain C. P. Krishnan Nair, Chairman
Manager, The Leela Palace New Delhi said, “Digital evolution
Emeritus and Founder Chairman, The Leela Palaces, Hotels
highly impacts the decisions of discerning travellers the
and Resorts was honoured by the Uthara Kerala Vaniya
world over. Therefore, being recognised by the world’s largest
Samudhhaya Mahasangamam at a felicitation ceremony held
and the most trusted travel site for two consecutive years, is
early this year in Kerala.
indeed a proud moment.”
Connoisseur’s club
Green award
Palaces, Hotels and Resorts received the Gulf Connoisseur
National Energy Conservation Award 2012 by
Awards 2013 for the Best Luxury Hotel in Asia given to
President Pranab Mukherjee for its outstanding
The Leela Palace New Delhi. Ingie Chalhoub, Founder,
achievements in energy conservation. The
President and Managing Director of the Etoile Group
awards, organised annually by the Bureau
presented the award at a glittering ceremony held in Dubai
of Energy Efficiency (BEE), a statutory body
to celebrate the 10th anniversary of Gulf Connoisseur, the
under the Ministry of Power, Government of
Gulf’s premier luxury lifestyle magazine.
India, nationally recognises businesses that
Vivek Nair, Chairman and Managing Director, The Leela
Sparkling lady
Aishwarya Nair, Corporate Food and Wine Consultant of
The Leela Palaces, Hotels & Resorts and the third generation
hotelier of The Leela Group, became the first Indian woman to
be conferred with a Diplôme d’ Honneur by the Corporation des
Vignerons de Champagne and the Comite Interprofessionel
du Vin de Champagne (CIVC). She received the honour for
her exceptional contribution towards promoting Champagne
in India and for proposing the finest Champagne list at
The Leela Palace New Delhi. The Champagne list at the hotel
currently features 86 Champagnes. She was felicitated by
the Ambassador of Champagne to India, Rajiv Singhal.
64
Commenting on the recognition, Tamir Kobrin, General
The Leela Palace Bangalore was conferred the
have made systematic and serious attempts
for efficient utilisation and conservation
of energy during the year. The award, a
prestigious national recognition of the hotel’s
consistent and energy efficient management,
was received by Andrew Hendrian, General
Manager, The Leela Palace Bangalore.
Present on the occasion were Jyotiraditya
Madhavrao Scindia, Minister of State for
Power; P Uma Shankar, Union Power Secretary;
and Jyoti Arora, Director-General, Bureau of
Energy Efficiency.
65
Events
Roll of
Black lady
unveiled
honour
The Leela Mumbai saw
TKA Nair, advisor to the Prime Minister of India, Pinarayi Vijayan,
actress Aishwarya Rai
politburo member and CPI(M) General Secretary, Naresh
Bachchan unveiling the
Goyal, Chairman, Jet Airways, Niranjan Hiranandani, Managing
Director, Hiranandani group, renowned Malayalam actors
Madhu and Sheela, Rev. Father Dr. Jayasingh, ambassador for
World Peace, Office of United Nations Relations and Aditya
Uddhav Thackeray, leader and Chairperson, Yuva Sena, won
the first Kashmir to Kerala (K&K) Foundation Annual Awards.
special Filmfare trophy,
crafted with a gold base, to
Winners of the Kashmir to Kerala (K&K) Foundation Annual Awards
share the dais with the guests of honour. Dr. Farooq Abdullah, Union
Cabinet Minister for New and Renewable Energy, Shriji Arvind Singh
Mewar, Maharana of Udaipur and Padma Bhushan Captain C. P.
Krishnan Nair, Chairman Emeritus and Founder Chairman, The Leela
Palaces, Hotels and Resorts
The Kashmir to Kerala Social Foundation Awards 2013 is a
Founder Chairman, The Leela Palaces, Hotels and Resorts
celebration to honour distinguished and outstanding leaders
announced the names of the winners at an annual awards
who have brought glory and change to the nation through
night celebration held at The Leela Mumbai early this year.
commemorate 100 years of
Indian cinema.
sustained efforts. In its first year, the awards aim to recognise
Speaking on the occasion, Captain Nair said, “I am
contributions of individuals across diverse fields ranging from
extraordinarily pleased to be part of the celebrations
Winner’s club
business and politics to advocacy and films. Shriji Arvind
honouring
The
Singh Mewar, Maharana of Udaipur, Dr. Farooq Abdullah, Union
exemplary personalities of our nation. Their excellence is
presented and hosted the first edition of
Cabinet Minister for New and Renewable Energy and Padma
a true inspiration for others and has set a perfect example
The Leela Travel Trade Awards 2013 aimed at
Bhushan Captain C. P. Krishnan Nair, Chairman Emeritus and
for the next generation to follow.”
recognising the invaluable contributions and
the
invaluable
contributions
of
the
most
Leela
Palaces,
Hotels
and
Resorts
support of its travel and trade partners.
Tasting
The ceremony, held at The Leela Kempinski
spirit
Gurgaon, began with the unveiling of Raga, a
rare music composition conceptualised and
created by Samyukta Nair and written and
composed by Amaan and Ayaan Ali Khan. The
unveiling was followed by a live rendition by
Ayaan Ali Khan.
Present on the occasion were prominent
individuals from the travel industry. These
included Ram Kohli, Chairman and Managing
Director, Creative Travel; Dipak Deva, CEO, SITA
Travels; Vikram Madhok, MD, A & K; Ashish
Kishore, Country Head, HRG Dnata, among
many others.
The five award categories were Charters,
MICE, Inbound, Preferred Domestic Leisure
Travel
The
Above: Prahlad and Mitali Kakkar sharing their views with Karen Anand at the Domaines Barons de Rothschild-Lafite wine do
Partners
winners
and
Corporate
included
Creative
Support.
Travels,
Kuoni Destination Management (KDM), LPTI,
66
The Leela Mumbai, together with Aspri
with exclusive Lafite wines paired with
Négrier, Export Director of Domaines
Travel Corporation of India, Tamarind, Caper
Spirits, presented a fine selection
epicurean
Barons de Rothschild, ad guru Prahlad
Travels, Cox & Kings and domestic partners
of wines from Domaines Barons de
at the poolside of Six Degrees, the
Kakkar
and
like Classic Travels, Global Odyssey, Make My
Rothschild-Lafite to the city’s swish
cosmopolitan lounge bar at the hotel.
culinary and wine expert Karen Anand,
Trip, Windex Tours and Travel, and Explorer,
set. A luxury dining experience replete
Present on the occasion were Michel
besides others.
among others.
delicacies,
were
served
and
his
wife
Mitali,
Top: Kiran Jyoti, Executive Director, Indian Routes, Le Passage to India (LPTI); Rajiv Kaul,
President, The Leela Palaces, Hotels and Resorts, Vivek Nair, Chairman and Managing
Director, The Leela Palaces, Hotels and Resorts and Deepak Bhatnagar, Joint Mangaing
Director, LPTI at the Leela Travel Trade Awards held at The Leela Kempinski Gurgaon
Above: Captain Nair welcoming Ayaan Ali Khan, who performed at the hotel
67
The Social Index
Concierge Speak
| WHAT TO SEE | WHERE TO EAT | WHERE TO SHOP |
Wheels of change
Solace for the soul
Laura Turkington, Country Director of Vodafone
Foundation in India and Carina Deegan, Project
Manager for the Johan Cruyff Foundation in Mumbai, along
with Sunita Chaudhury, the first female rickshaw driver
from New Delhi, rode a rickshaw from Delhi to Mumbai
to meet some amazing women and share their tale
l Meghalaya’s Bertha G Dkhar lost her
Deegan
along
with
Sunita
Chaudhary,
eyesight completely while studying in
embarked on a 1,500 kilometres journey in
Bangalore and returned to her native place,
a rickshaw from Delhi to Mumbai to discover
Shillong. After doing several odd jobs, she
and
decided to provide education to the visually-
extraordinary things across India. It’s called
impaired. She went on to invent the Braille
the Red Rickshaw Revolution (RRR).
code in Khasi, a major tribal language
encounter
ordinary
women
doing
“The Red Rickshaw Revolution aimed to
celebrate the achievements of inspirational
of Meghalaya.
lHirabai ben Lobi is a rural entrepreneur
women
across
the
country
and
raise
who, despite limited education, started
crucial funds for three non-governmental
an organic compost farm in her village in
organisations (NGOs) which are working to
Gujarat. She has provided a new scientific
empower many more,” says Laura Turkington,
method of sustainable farming enterprise
Country Director of Vodafone Foundation
that is also generating good profits.
in India.
Vodafone
S
tories of such ordinary women showing
with
extraordinary
Collective
talent,
selfless
service,
NGOs
Foundation
has
partnered
like
Aap
Women’s
Apne
(AAWC),
Breakthrough
and
exemplary courage and leadership were
CORP India, all working towards women
found,
empowerment projects.
heard
and
their
stories
shared
with the world during a nine day road
During the journey, live updates of three
journey undertaken by three women in
women each day along the route were
a rickshaw.
featured on the RRR website and amplified
On March 9, Laura Turkington, Carina
using various social media streams such as
social networking sites, webcast, podcast,
videos, pictorial content and features.
“Vodafone
Foundation
in
India
is
combining skills, resources and funding to
build a brighter future for people who are
currently unable to fulfill their potential. The
foundation seeks to empower women so that
they can compete on an equal footing. It also
wants to reach out to rural areas and support
the people living there, and provide newer
Sunita Chaudhary, Carina Deegan & Laura Turkington
68
opportunities to them,” says Turkington.
Started in 1998 in
Kamathipura, Mumbai’s oldest
red-light district, Apne Aap
Women’s Collective (AAWC)
is an NGO that works with
the most underprivileged
sections of society — women
in brothel-based prostitution
and their children.
AAWC’s mission is all
about making a difference in
the lives of these marginalised
women and children, who
are abandoned, destitute,
exploited and with limited
resources to keep their body
and soul together.
Initially operating from a
single room that functioned
as a day care drop-in centre
to provide solace to women
who had been trafficked into
the sex trade, AAWC has now
developed into a resource
centre where professional
counselling, medical care,
micro-savings facilities, among
other services are provided to
these women.
On seeing the grim reality
of the daughters of such
women who were at the risk of
being pushed into prostitution
AAWC began Udaan, a
programme dedicated to
preventing the second
generation from getting
trafficked into prostitution. It
addresses their educational,
vocational, medical and
nutritional needs.
AAWC also established
a kindergarten as part of
its project, Umang. This has
evolved into a day care centre
combined with an educational
programme for boys and
girls of these women, aged
between two and six years.
Contact: + 91 22 2381 9721,
+ 91 22 2381 2189
The Leela Palace Bangalore
Name the hotspots at The Leela Palace Bangalore that every
guest must visit and experience.
A must visit is Amoeba, the sports bar with a bowling alley at
The Leela Galleria for some after hours entertainment. If you’re
the kind who wants to indulge in some spa pampering, head to
Spa The Leela. It offers a holistic experience with treatments
based on European, Eastern and Ayurvedic philosophies.
One can also indulge in a range of natural skin care products
including anti-stress aromatherapy oil, pure seaweed and
cleansing mud from the acclaimed brand, ESPA. Spa The Leela
also offers daily yoga. A visit to the gym, whirlpool and sauna,
before heading to the spa is highly recommended. You can
make a prior appointment with the spa reception at 1292.
Please tell us about the restaurants at The Leela Palace
Bangalore. What can one look forward to, in terms of cuisine
Soudha, Lal Bagh and The Bangalore Palace. The Vidhan
and popular dishes, at each of these restaurants?
Soudha is the seat of the state legislature, sprawled across 60
Our signature Indian restaurant, Jamavar, serves authentic
acres and built almost entirely of dressed Bangalore granite.
dishes from north as well as south of India. Listed in the
Lal Bagh is a 240-acre botanical garden built along the lines
Forbes magazine in 2007 as one of the top ten power dining
of the Mughal gardens. This 18th century paradise is dotted
restaurants of the world, you must try the Lobster Neeruli,
with rare trees brought from far-off countries like Persia,
Raan-e-Jamavar, Gosht Naali Ka and Murgh Alamgiri.
Afghanistan and France. The Bangalore Palace, built in 1880 by
At the Pan-Asian restaurant, Zen, known for its Japanese,
Thai, Chinese and Korean food, we recommend the sushi and
the Wodeyar king, has the Tudor architectural style comprising
fortified towers, battlements and turrets.
dimsum platter. Other must haves include Buddha’s Delight,
California rolls and Korean Bulgogi. You can enjoy an extensive
Which are the best markets to shop at?
sea food grill buffet every Wednesday night. For those keen
You can shop for traditional Indian handicrafts, sarees,
to visit the restaurant for an evening dinner, we advise
sandalwood statues and soap and jewellery at the various
prior reservations.
shops at City Market, Commercial Street, Brigade Road and
MG Road. You can buy these from the Cauvery Arts & Crafts
For a business traveller, what are the options available at the
Emporium on MG Road, or, visit the Karnataka Silk Board at
hotel to de-stress after a hard day at work?
Cubbonpet for silk items. For buying luxury branded goods, a
Spa The Leela is the best place to head to and knead away
visit to Maison, the city’s first concept store for women, The
the stress knots. Also, a visit to The Library Bar sets you in
Collective, a lifestyle store for both men and women, UB City
a relaxed frame of mind right away. It is an old-fashioned
mall, all on Vittal Mallya Road and Cinnamon, a lifestyle store
English-style bar with both indoor and outdoor seating, where
on Lavelle Road, are pure indulgences.
you can indulge in fine single malt whiskeys, aged cognac as
well as smoke the finest Cuban cigars.
Which are the historical landmarks that a traveller to
Bangalore must see?
A days’ tour around the city must include a visit to the Vidhan
ABOVE: Zen, the Pan-Asian
restaurant at The Leela
Palace Bangalore
To know more about
THE LEELA PALACE BANGALORE
please scan this QR Code from
your smart phone.
69
Insider’s Guide
Perspective
DELHI
A timeless appeal
Stitching a legacy
By Sujata Dugar
“I
parts of the country I knew. Chennai has
We have always been travellers — my grandfather went to
a very specific identity.
Which are the best places to shop for
would recommend to a first-time visitor and state why?
designer clothing for men, bridal and
Chicago at the age of 19, my father went to Hollywood at the
Now, Chennai has become home
The walled city is a must. It includes the famous Chandni
groom wear and traditional textiles?
age of 18 and I, to India, at the age of 19 for the first time, and
to me because this is where I work
Chowk, a major street in the walled city of old Delhi, the Red
The DLF Emporio mall, tailors in Khan
finally settled in Chennai (formerly called Madras) at 27. I have
with
Fort and the Jama Masjid. Built by Mughal emperor Shah Jahan,
Market, South Extension market and the
been staying in the city for 20 years now.
Sriperumbudur, the place where I found
it’s a city within a city and it transports you to the Mughal era.
Gallery on MG mall at MG Road. I would
When I came to India during my early days, I was struck to
Its vibrancy and munificence are infectious. A rickshaw ride
also recommend the State Emporia on
see that the same tradition of embroidery existed in both India
or a foot trek down the streets, where the various sights and
Baba Kharak Singh Marg and Cottage
and France. It was passed on to these countries from China and
aromas engulf and transport one into another era, make it a
Industries at Janpath.
truly invigorating experience. Another must-see is the India
Gate-Rajpath stretch, which has the world’s best located and
Mention the best places for fine dining
regal home for a head of state — the Rashtrapati Bhavan with
in the city?
beautiful homes for other dignitaries in close vicinity — is
The Le Cirque at the Leela Palace New
majestic, to say the least.
Delhi undoubtedly.
Take away experiences from the city include listening to
the qawwali at the dargah of Hazrat Nizamuddin, soaking in the
Where should one go to try authentic
tranquility at Humayun’s tomb and taking a walk at dusk or dawn
local food?
at the beautiful Lodi Gardens.
Karim’s, located in the walled city and
Moti Mahal, at Daryaganj, are the best
Name some of the custom-made items you can buy from the
places and I would clearly designate
city and mention places you can procure them from?
them as the capital for the best of street
One can go to Tank Road in Karol Bagh to buy customised
food. The range is limitless, delicious and
shoes, to old Delhi tailors to get customised suits, to
fresh because of the quick turnovers. The
Anarkali to get lehengas, and of course, to any of the
fares include Daulat ki chaat, parathas of
famous Indian fashion designers for couture. Delhi
50-odd varieties, jalebis, chaat, nan
enjoys the advantage of a central position in the
khatai and others.
country’s map and hence you can see popular, craftbased products converging here from neighbouring
Suggest some off-beat places to go to
states. A visit to Dilli Haat would surprise you with its
in and around Delhi?
eclectic offerings.
The city’s central location provides you
the luxury to drive to
the heavenly Ananda
Completing 25 years
in the Indian fashion
industry is no mean feat.
Achieving this is none
other than noted fashion
designer Ravi Bajaj.
New Delhi-based Bajaj,
known for his trademark
menswear collection,
has, over the years,
gone ahead to design
for women too. He
started his eponymous
fashion label in 1987
and his structured
clothes earned him the
title of ‘Armani of India’
in the 90s. Not one
to be limited to mere
designing of clothes,
Bajaj has furthered his
creativity by foraying
into opening cafes and
bars and even starting
a new design enterprise
called Fashion Living
by Ravi Bajaj — a
company which designs
high-end residences.
Persia during the 12th century.
extraordinary
artisans
from
my Indian associates who have been my
friends for 20 years.
This is the city where people smile
most of the time. This is where, when
I decided to continue with my family legacy and embroideries
here in India, and found a language to express myself.
people are educated, they are extremely
educated. It is a place where you
I got the idea to create a workshop, along with my associates,
discover some of the oldest traces of
where local craftsmen would really be the nucleus of the
Indian history. It’s at the same time a
project. Vastrakala was the outcome. The role of the managers,
huge metropolis and a giant village. It is
including mine, was only to frame their talent, to give them
a hospitable, welcoming place. People
a solid base to express themselves and continue to produce
understand excellence.
beautiful handmade embroideries as they have been doing
When I set foot in India, embroidery
for over two centuries. I knew it would be successful as luxury
was perceived to be a sort of ethnic craft
products across the world. Today, we supply to places ranging
and nobody at that time really believed
from palaces in France to operas, museums and mansions
that India could manufacture high
across the planet and very often, our embroideries co-exist
quality products. What has drastically
with the most exquisite paintings and artworks.
changed is that in any field pertaining
The project we have started in Chennai is
to creation and design, India is no
helping people to rediscover embroidery and
longer perceived as a place for
its multiple facets. People come to see what
inexpensive labour; India is a
we do at Vastrakala — ministers, film stars,
place where people source
royalty, millionaires besides extremely
highly crafted products too.
normal and humble people
express
equal
In Chennai, like anywhere
Jean-Francois Lesage
belongs to the fourth
generation of a family of
traditional embroiderers
in France. The House of
Lesage, founded in 1862,
were the embroiderers
for Napoleon III and
his court; his father,
Francois Lesage, supplied
embroidery to the best
couture houses —
Balenciaga, Christian
Dior, Yves St. Laurent,
to name a few. Nearly
20 years back, JeanFrancois Lesage found
his calling in Chennai
and started Vastrakala,
a hand embroidery craft
company. It employs
local craftsmen and
trains them to create
embroidery fit for the
kings. His clients include
the rich and the famous.
shock
else in India, everything takes
and surprise to discover
time. Sometimes it looks
the manner in which
complicated but everything is possible. There is a
our artisans are able to
feeling of freedom which helps enterprise. There
in the Himalayas or,
create
go white water rafting, both within five
embroidered
or six hours drive from the city. You can
day after day and year
given me enormous energy to push our professional
after year.
projects from six embroiderers 20 years ago to 150
reach the desert city of Jaipur in four
70
was born in a family which started embroidery in 1860.
Of the famous tourist sites in the city, name the places you
extraordinary
hours and the Taj Mahal and palaces like
When I started living
the Samode Palace and the Neemrana,
in Chennai, it took me
within a couple of hours. Not to
some time to understand
forget Leh, which is just an hour away
it
by flight.
understanding the other
Jama Masjid is part of the walled city of old Delhi
as
is a comprehension for team spirit and there is a
work,
compared
pleasure of achieving things together which has
today, and I am not sure that it would have been
possible anywhere else in the world.
What I know is that this is the place where I
to
found myself, this is the place where I can achieve
what I want.
A reproduction of Napoleon’s throne
done by the craftsmen of Vastrakala
71

- The Leela

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