Lisa Chiccine

PHOTOGRA PHED
BY YASU + JUNKO
*NATIONAL
BEAUTY MONTH
NEW
BEAUTY
Rules at
30
40
50
&
WHAT TO DO,
WHEN
TO DO IT
60
“TAKE OFF YOUR MAKEUP BEFORE BED”
is eternal. But lots of other beauty commandments become outdated
every 10 years or so. Turn the page to find your age group and check
out our three helpful to-dos for that decade—as well as one
oft-repeated mandate you can now ignore BY HOLLY CRAWFORD
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| more.com
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IN YOUR
30s
A VARIETY OF obligations (work, marriage, motherhood, fill in the blank)
can leave you “burning the candle at
both ends during this decade,” says
Amy B. Wechsler, MD, a New York
City dermatologist and psychiatrist.
“And while youth is on your side, the
spike in cortisol levels caused by this
stress, then compounded by a lack of
sleep, will affect the rate at which you
are aging.” The bottom line: You’re a
grownup now—and you need to treat
your skin and hair as though you care.
No one said being an adult was easy.
3 RULES TO
FOLLOW
USE CONDITIONER EVERY TIME
YOU SHAMPOO Nearly 30 percent
of women skip conditioner, according to a study by Procter & Gamble
(the maker of Pantene and Fekkai hair care). While you can get
away with just a speedy shampoo
at 16, when your scalp is producing
ample amounts of oil, a quick sudsing won’t cut it anymore. Around
your age, sebum production on your
scalp drops sharply, says San Diego
salon owner Jet Rhys. And the less
oil your scalp produces, the more
fragile your hair becomes. Why?
Coloring, heat styling and general
wear and tear leave tiny holes in the
surface of your strands—and without natural scalp oils to fill them in,
your hair becomes weaker, less elastic and more vulnerable to breakage. Fortunately, conditioner is an
excellent substitute for scalp oil and
will seal those holes, Rhys explains.
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Conditioner also wraps itself around
your strands, smoothing rough cuticles and creating an even surface
that reflects light. The result: shine!
So be sure to follow every shampoo
with conditioner and, for extra insurance, add an at-home mask once
a week. Try Pantene Pro-V Moisture Renewal Conditioner ($4; drugstores) and Nexxus Humectress
Hydrating Treatment Deep Conditioner ($16; ulta.com).
START AN AGGRESSIVE SKIN-CARE
REGIMEN Soap, water and sunscreen
may keep your skin looking decent
today. But 10 or more years down
the road? Not so much. “Everything
you do to your skin today paves the
way for the way it will look in the
future,” says Dallas-based aesthetician Renee Rouleau. So turn that potential threat into an advantage! To
minimize the amount of sun damage
that will surface at, say, age 55, add
a daily exfoliating treatment such as
glycolic acid pads or a retinol cream
to your routine. Try Beauty Rx by
Dr. Neal Schultz The Progressive
Peel ($70; beautyrx.com) or Neutrogena Rapid Wrinkle Repair Night
Moisturizer ($21; drugstores). To
prevent the accumulation of additional sun damage, start your day
by applying an antioxidant serum
and a sunscreen or a product that
contains both, such as Meaningful Beauty Antioxidant Day Crème
Broad Spectrum SPF 20 ($40; ulta
.com). To firm the skin and keep fine
lines from deepening, you may also
want to weave in a nighttime treatment packed with peptides; it will
stimulate the production of collagen
and elastin to keep the skin plump.
Try Estée Lauder Advanced Night
Repair Synchronized Recovery Complex II ($62; esteelauder.com). Finally, it’s not too early to start seeing
a dermatologist for noninvasive cosmetic tweaks like neurotoxins. “Baby
doses of Botox beginning in your
thirties can prevent wrinkles
by inhibiting and gradually weakening the muscles that create deep furrows,” says Wechsler.
INVEST IN GOOD CONCEALER(S)
This is the age when the aforementioned stress and lack of sleep may
start to show up in the form of dark
circles and blotchy skin. Perfect your
application of concealer now and
you’ll reap disguise dividends for the
rest of your life. “It’s tempting to just
smear on the same concealer to cover
any skin imperfections,” says Los Angeles makeup artist Napoleon Perdis. “But it will look more natural to
select one perfect shade and texture
for your under-eyes and a different
one for red spots or uneven skin tone.”
The guidelines: For under-eyes, you
want a creamy cover-up with yellow
or peach undertones to counteract the
blue. And to brighten the eye area, you
may opt for something that is just one
shade lighter than the rest of your face.
Bobbi Brown Creamy Concealer Kit
($35; bobbibrowncosmetics.com) contains both a color-correcting cream
to erase the blue tones and a traditional flesh-toned concealer to tap on
top. For red spots related to acne, you
want to use a less emollient formula
so that it stays put all day. Both bareMinerals Heal & Conceal Acne Treatment ($25; sephora.com) and Mario
Badescu’s Special Healing Powder
($12; ­nordstrom.com) are tinted powders containing antibacterial sulfur to
conceal and heal simultaneously. And
finally, to counter allover uneven tone,
opt for a lightweight tinted lotion that
can be applied forehead to chin, like
face cream. Try Chanel Les Beiges
Healthy Glow Fluid ($45; chanel.com)
or Olay Total Effects Pore Minimizing
CC Cream ($20; drugstores).
AND 1 RULE
TO BREAK
...
DON’T PICK AT YOUR SKIN For years,
we’ve been told: Keep. Your. Hands.
Off. Your. Face. While no one is suggesting you attack blemishes with
sharp fingernails, from here on out you
do need to touch your face—in ­order
Counter exfoliation-related
redness with daily application
of a soothing serum.
to keep your pores superclean. “If
your pores are congested with oil, debris or dead cells, your skin won’t
get enough oxygen, which can make
your complexion look dull,” says New
York City aesthetician Ling Chan. So
how can we safely take matters into
our own hands? Once a week, use
pore-­cleansing strips like Bioré Deep
Cleansing Pore Strips ($7; drugstores)
on your nose, chin and forehead. Or
apply a clay-based mask, such as
­GlamGlow PowerMud ($69; sephora
.com), when you’re fresh from a warm
shower and your pores are open. As
the clay dries, it will pull debris out of
the skin so that when you splash away
the mask, gunk inside your pores goes
down the drain, too. Do note, however, that tough blemishes (especially
under-the-skin cysts) should be tackled only by aestheticians or physicians,
who can employ sterilized blemish extractors or zit-deflating cortisone shots.
IN YOUR
40s
THIS IS THE DECADE when the skin
and hair regimens you’ve followed
faithfully for years can start to betray you. Your skin seems drier or
more sensitive, your hair is thinner
and less lustrous, and a dab of lipstick and a swipe of mascara don’t
do the face-brightening trick they
once did. No need to panic or throw
thousands of dollars at in-office
options. Consider these beauty-­
routine revisions instead.
3 RULES TO
FOLLOW
EASE UP ON YOUR HAIR Just
when you’ve come to understand
your hair texture, hormones can
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throw you a curveball. “Hair texture
often changes in your forties, becoming wavier, straighter or coarser,”
Rhys explains. Plus, almost everyone experiences the loss or thinning of hair because of pregnancy or
other hormonal shifts. So you have a
new mandate: Treat those thinning
tresses with kid gloves. Accepting
and accentuating your (new) natural texture will make your hair
healthier and your am styling session less frustrating. Some guidelines: If your hair is wavier than it
used to be, play this up with a texturizing salt spray like Bumble and
Bumble Surf Spray ($26; sephora
.com). If it’s straighter (and chronically limp), try Redken’s Cerafill
Texture Effect Hair & Scalp Refresher ($18; redken.com for salons);
it adds volume the way a dry shampoo does but without the matte finish. If your hair is coarser than it
used to be, consider using a styler
with moisturizing ingredients, such
as L’Oréal Professionnel Absolut
Repair Reconstructing and Protecting Blow-Dry Cream ($26; lpsalons
.com). Finally, if your hair is thinning, switch to shampoos and conditioners created to maximize the
strands you still have. We like Phylia de M. Shampoo and Conditioner
($35, $40; phylia.com).
BALANCE YOUR SKIN-CARE REGIMEN
“The forties are a lot like puberty,”
says Tara Allmen, MD, an OB-GYN
at New York–Presbyterian Hospital’s Center for Menopause in New
York City. “Both transitions are associated with hormonal chaos that
results in acne and mood swings.”
As if that weren’t enough, at this age
you’re also seeing signs of sun damage and fine lines. “Women are annoyed about having pimples and
wrinkles,” Wechsler says. The solution: Use a product with anti-aging
ingredients such as retinoids (vitamin A derivatives), which tackle
both breakouts and signs of aging.
They work by keeping the pores
clear and accelerating skin-cell
turnover, both of which minimize
clogging and keep the skin looking
fresh, smooth and plump. Retinoids,
however, can be irritating, and some
skin types simply cannot tolerate
them, Wechsler warns. If you fall
into that camp, keep in mind there
is evidence that glycolic acid may be
just as effective but safer for sensitive skin. Try Kate Somerville RetAsphere Micro Peel Retinol Glycolic
Treatment ($90; katesomerville
.com) or Peter Thomas Roth Glycolic Acid 10 Percent Hydrating Gel
($48; sephora.com).
WEAR LESS MAKEUP “Nothing makes you look older than
too much makeup,” says Houston
makeup artist Tonya Riner. Powdery foundations, matte lip colors,
dark eyeshadows—formulas you
wore to great effect 10 years ago—
will now start to cake, sink into lines
and pores and just make you look
tired. Your new makeup mantra?
Lighten up. Choose foundations that
are sheer, impart a dewy finish and
leave the heavier concealing to an
opaque cover-up that you dot on just
where needed. We like Maybelline
Dream Wonder Fluid-Touch Foundation ($11; drugstores), Perricone
M.D. No Foundation Foundation Serum ($55; perriconemd.com)—and
the crème de la crème of concealers,
Clé de Peau Beauté Concealer ($70;
­nordstrom.com). Employ the same
less-is-more strategy with cheek, eye
and lip colors, too, with sheer, forgiving and hydrating products such as
L’Oréal Paris Visible Lift Blur Blush
($13; drugstores), Fresh Sugar Shine
Lip Treatments ($19; sephora.com)
and Dior DiorShow Fusion Mono
Eyeshadow ($32; dior.com).
AND 1 RULE
TO BREAK
...
WASH YOUR HAIR AS INFREQUENTLY AS POSSIBLE You’ve probably read right here in More that
it’s smart to space out shampoos
and give your diminishing scalp oils
an opportunity to condition your
strands. But some experts now believe that doing this may sacrifice
scalp health, something not worth
risking right now, as you’re starting
to see diminished hair growth. “If
you’re only washing your hair once
a week, it may be good for maintaining your color, but it’s not good
for your scalp,” says Nunzio Saviano, owner of an eponymous salon in New York City. “I don’t care
if your hair doesn’t smell. If you
don’t shampoo, your scalp doesn’t
get stimulated—a process that
promotes growth—and hair follicles can’t breathe with all that
oil and grime building up. It’s like
not washing your face for a week.”
While this is the era of dry shampoo,
and the busiest among us rely on a
sprinkle or spray of it to prolong a
proper shampoo, Saviano offers this
caveat: “It’s OK to use dry shampoo
on the second or third day to extend a wash, but beyond that, you’re
risking your scalp’s health and
future hair growth.”
IN YOUR
50s
MOST WOMEN go through menopause in their fifties, and this
life stage “marks the end of life
with estrogen,” Allmen says. “When
we say that girls are made of ‘sugar
and spice and everything nice,’
what that really means is estrogen.”
This female hormone helps keep
skin hydrated, so its absence is associated with dryness, sensitivity
and some loss of firmness. Thus,
your beauty regimen during this
decade will largely center on
replenishing what your body isn’t
producing naturally anymore.
3 RULES TO
FOLLOW
GET YOUR BODY BACK (ABOVE THE
NECK) “It’s not your imagination: You
do have less hair now,” says Lisa Chiccine, a New York City stylist and colorist. Both the diameter of each strand
and the overall density of hair on your
scalp have decreased about 20 percent.
And your hair follicles are continuing
to shrink, so without some intervention, your mane is only going to get
sparser. You have two missions: First,
turn up the volume whenever, wherever possible. To achieve this, invest
in an oversize round brush (at least
two inches in diameter, though three
or four inches will give you the most
dramatic body), then use it to pull sections of hair up and away from your
scalp as you blow-dry. Try Olivia Garden Brushes ($11 and up; olivia
garden.com). Velcro rollers, which are
easier on the hair than the heated variety, will also provide extra fullness
and are a good end-of-the-day body
reviver, Chiccine says. Roll them in
and blast for 10 seconds with some
hot air from a dryer. Wait two minutes for the hair to cool, then uncoil.
Your second goal is to encourage future hair growth. Nicole Rogers, MD,
a hair-transplant surgeon and boardcertified dermatologist in Metairie,
Louisiana, recommends a treatment
with the FDA-approved drug minoxidil. “It is the only ingredient clinically
proven to stimulate aging follicles and
regrow hair,” she says. Rogaine for
Women ($30; drugstores), with 2 percent minoxidil, used to be the only
option, but Pantene Solution Hair Regrowth Treatment for Women ($23;
target.com) and Redken Cerafill Retaliate Hair Regrowth Treatment ($30;
redken.com for salons) now have formulas with 2 percent minoxidil as well.
REDUCE THE RED The drastic
drop in estrogen during this decade
can cause your skin to become redder and more reactive. “Estrogen
is a natural anti-inflammatory, so
when it decreases, your skin may
get more irritated all of a sudden—
even when you haven’t changed
your regimen at all,” Rouleau says.
But the reason to get the red out
isn’t just that it looks unappealing.
“Skin inflammation accelerates the
aging process,” she says. So be sure
to add a soothing product to your
skin-care routine to keep irritation at bay. We like Eucerin Redness
Relief Soothing Night Creme ($15;
drugstores), Jurlique Calendula Redness Rescue Restorative Treatment
Serum ($54; jurlique.com) and Renee Rouleau Soothing Relief Serum
($42; reneerouleau.com).
REVIVE FADING BROWS “If your
brows have become white or gray,
they are less apparent—and this can
throw off the proportions of your
face,” Umbreen Sheikh, owner of
New York City’s Wink Brow Bar, explains. Your brows look best when
they’re a shade darker than your
hair color. So even if the strands on
your head are silver or white, your
brows should be taupe or pewter. A
good pencil or gel will achieve this,
in a natural-looking way, and last
all day. We like Giorgio Armani
Eye & Brow Maestro ($34; giorgio
armanibeauty.com) and IT Cosmetics Brow Power Pencil ($24; ulta
.com). Another option is to get your
brows tinted at a salon (this frees
you from having to fill them in every morning). Tinting typically
lasts three to four weeks, even with
twice-a-day face washing.
AND 1 RULE
TO BREAK
...
SKIP SHIMMER “It’s a myth that
shimmery shadows and glosses
are a no-go for eyes and lips over
50,” says Riner. “The newest formulas are sheer and light reflective,
which is exactly what you need for
a fresh, youthful look.” But there’s
a difference between the subtle
radiance of a shimmer and the
gritty garishness of glitter. Check
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Moisturizers
that contain
ceramides
help hydrate
chronically
thirsty skin.
the label for an adjective such as
luminescent, radiant or glowing, as
these products typically contain
light-diffusing particles and very
finely milled shimmer, both of
which are flattering to (and won’t
sink into) aging skin. There are a
variety of options—cheek shimmer, glossy lips, a touch of sparkle on the eyelid—but go with only
one. At this point in our lives, there
can be too much of a good thing.
Try NARS Blush in Unlawful ($30;
sephora.com), Laura Mercier Caviar
Stick Eye Colour in Moonlight ($28;
lauramercier.com) and Maybelline
Baby Lips Crystal in Beam of Blush
($5; drugstores).
IN YOUR
60s
CELEBRITY MAKEUP artist Sandy
Linter, who did 60-year-old Christie
Brinkley’s makeup for the longtime
model’s recent People cover, says,
“Sixty sure doesn’t look like it once
did.” Accomplished, well traveled
and confident, sixty-somethings report being happier now than they
were in their fifties, says Vivian
Diller, a New York City psychologist.
So it should come as no surprise
that your beauty rules are similarly
low stress, even simple. Life (like
you) has never looked better.
3 RULES TO
FOLLOW
LET YOUR HAIR GROW “It’s nonsense to think you’re too old to
wear your hair long,” says Rhys.
“Keeping some length, whether
it’s past your shoulders or collarbone length, can subtract years.”
­ exture changes (read: thinning)
T
may dictate not going too long or
you’ll sacrifice body and bounce,
but Saviano agrees there’s no need
to default to your grandmother’s
cropped wash and set. For inspiration, look at Dianes Keaton and
Sawyer or even the extra-longlocked Jane Seymour and Brinkley.
One tip to take from these ladies:
Use layers, bangs or both to soften
the frame around your face.
RETHINK YOUR MOISTURIZER
If you’re using the thickest one
you can find and you’re still chronically dry, that’s probably an indication that your skin barrier has
sprung a leak, a common problem
for sixty-something women.
“Tiny, invisible cracks in your skin’s
protective barrier allow moisture
to escape and irritants to get in,”
Rouleau explains. Even more important to note is that these fissures will deepen over time, leaving
skin more parched unless you
intervene with a reparative, leakplugging ingredient. The most
effective are ceramides, phospholipids, jojoba and borage oil. Using a cream containing one of these
twice daily will ensure that your
skin gets—and stays—hydrated. Try
Elizabeth Arden Flawless Future
Caplet Serum ($60; elizabeth
arden.com), which contains ceramides; Lumene Bright Now Vitamin C Dry Skin Cocktail ($22; drugstores), which is laced with jojoba;
or Murad Essential-C Day Moisture
SPF 30 ($60; sephora.com), which
boasts phospholipids.
DEFINE YOUR EYES It may be
tempting to ditch eyeliner at this
point, since it’s more likely to skip
on slack skin and produce jagged
lines—but don’t. Use eyeliner as a
tool to define your eyes and give
the appearance of a fuller lash line,
Perdis says. Subtly sweeping and
blending liner up and out at the
outer corners will make eyes look
larger and more lifted. “It’s wise
to stay away from black, since the
contrast makes too strong a statement and can sometimes make the
eyes appear smaller,” he says. But
a warm brown or navy applied
close to the lash lines will add
definition and open eyes without
looking harsh. Rather than a sharp,
wooden pencil, try a soft, twistup liner, which is more forgiving
and will go on more smoothly. “Be
sure to blend the edges to keep the
look soft,” he says. And skip the
lower lash lines: Too much liner or
mascara can emphasize any dark
circles or puffiness. Try Lancôme
Le Stylo Waterproof EyeLiner in
Bronze Riche ($27; lancome.com).
AND 1 RULE
TO BREAK
...
EXFOLIATE, EXFOLIATE, EXFOLIATE Although shedding dead skin
cells is necessary as we age, it’s
more important to handle your skin
with TLC, which means using less
aggressive exfoliation tactics, says
Paul J. Frank, MD, a dermatologist
in Manhattan. “Your skin doesn’t
bounce back the way it once did,”
he explains (which is why you may
be stuck with a bruise or burn for
what seems like weeks). So stop
power blasting your face with
gritty scrubs, electric brushes and
microdermabrasion. “The suction
­really tugs and pulls at the skin,”
says Rouleau. Instead, cleanse gently with a damp, warm washcloth
and use an enzyme or glycolic acid
peel just once a week. Try Philosophy the Microdelivery One-Minute
Purifying Enzyme Peel ($42; ulta.
com), June Jacobs Pumpkin Peeling
Enzyme Masque ($78; junejacobs.
com) or Dr. Dennis Gross Medi-Spa
Peel ($110; dgskincare.com).
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