Hawaii 11 - Contents

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
Hawaii
Kaua‘i
p476
Ni‘ihau
p474
O‘ahu
p62
Moloka‘i
p440
Lana‘i
p424
Maui
p312
Kaho‘olawe
p422
Hawai‘i
the Big Island
p172
THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY
Sara Benson,
Amy C Balfour, Adam Karlin, Adam Skolnick,
Paul Stiles, Ryan Ver Berkmoes
PLAN
YOUR TRIP
ON THE ROAD
Welcome to Hawaii. . . . . . . 6
OʻAHU. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 62
Pali Highway. . . . . . . . . . . . 134
Hawaii Map . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8
Honolulu. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 69
Waimanalo. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 135
Hawaii’s Top 20. . . . . . . . . 10
Pearl Harbor. . . . . . . . . . 101
Kailua. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 138
Waikiki. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 105
Kaneʻohe. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 144
Diamond Head &
Southeast Coast. . . . . . . 128
Kahaluʻu & Waiahole. . . . . 146
Kualoa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 146
Diamond Head & Kahala 128
Kaʻaʻawa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 147
Month by Month. . . . . . . . 26
Hawaiʻi Kai. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 130
Kahana. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 148
Itineraries . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30
Hanauma Bay Nature
Preserve. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 131
Hauʻula. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 149
Need to Know. . . . . . . . . . 20
What’s New. . . . . . . . . . . . 22
If You Like . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23
Outdoor Activities . . . . . . 40
Koko Head Regional Park.132
Travel with Children. . . . . 55
Makapuʻu Point. . . . . . . . . 133
Regions at a Glance. . . . . 59
Windward Coast &
Kailua. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 134
Punaluʻu. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 148
Laʻie . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 150
Malaekahana State
Recreation Area . . . . . . . . . 151
Kahuku. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 151
WAYNE LEVIN / GETTY IMAGES ©
LONELY PLANET / GETTY IMAGES ©
LEI-MAKING P619
DEBORAH RUST / GETTY IMAGES ©
GECKO
KEALAKEKUA BAY STATE
HISTORICAL PARK P211
Contents
North Shore &
Haleʻiwa. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 152
Puʻuhonua o Honaunau
National Historical Park. . 214
Honomu. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 266
Turtle Bay . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 153
Hoʻokena & Around. . . . . . 216
Sunset Beach to
Waimea Bay . . . . . . . . . . . . 154
Miloliʻi. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 217
Hilo. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 267
Haleʻiwa. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 158
Kaloko-Honokohau
National Historical Park. . 217
Waialua. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 162
North Kona Coast. . . . . . 217
Mokuleʻia to
Kaʻena Point. . . . . . . . . . . . 162
Keahole Point. . . . . . . . . . . 219
Central Oʻahu . . . . . . . . . 163
Kaʻupulehu . . . . . . . . . . . . . 221
Wahiawa. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 164
Leeward Oʻahu &
Waiʻanae Coast. . . . . . . . 165
Waipahu. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 165
Ko Olina. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 166
Kahe Point. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 167
Nanakuli. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 167
Maʻili. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 167
Waiʻanae . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 167
Makaha . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 169
Makua Valley. . . . . . . . . . . . 170
Kaʻena Point State Park. . 170
HAWAIʻI THE BIG
ISLAND . . . . . . . . . . . 172
Kekaha Kai State Park. . .220
Puna. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 281
Keaʻau & Around . . . . . . . 282
Pahoa. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 283
Lava Tree
State Monument . . . . . . . 286
Kapoho. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 286
Kiholo Bay. . . . . . . . . . . . . 223
Red Road
(Highway 137). . . . . . . . . . 286
South Kohala. . . . . . . . . 223
Highway 130. . . . . . . . . . . 289
Waikoloa Resort Area . . . 223
Hawaiʻi Volcanoes
National Park &
Around. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 289
Mauna Lani Resort Area. . 227
Puako. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 232
Hapuna Beach State
Recreation Area . . . . . . . . 233
Mauna Kea Resort Area. . 233
Kawaihae & Around. . . . . 235
North Kohala. . . . . . . . . . 236
Kohala Mountain Road
(Highway 250). . . . . . . . . 236
Hawaiʻi Volcanoes
National Park . . . . . . . . . . 289
Volcano . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 301
Kaʻu. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 305
Pahala . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 305
Wood Valley. . . . . . . . . . . . 306
Punaluʻu & Around. . . . . . 306
Akoni Pule Highway
(Highway 270) . . . . . . . . . 238
Naʻalehu & Around. . . . . . 307
Hawi. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 239
Hawaiʻi Volcanoes National
Park Kahuku Unit. . . . . . . 309
Kailua-Kona. . . . . . . . . . . 178
Kapaʻau . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 241
Around Kailua-Kona. . . . 194
Pololu Valley . . . . . . . . . . . 243
Keauhou Resort Area. . . . . 194
Waimea (Kamuela). . . . . 243
Holualoa. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 197
Mauna Kea &
Saddle Road . . . . . . . . . 250
Honokohau Harbor
& Around. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 200
Onomea Bay & Around. . 266
Mauna Kea. . . . . . . . . . . . . 250
South Kona Coast . . . . . 201
Saddle Road . . . . . . . . . . . 255
Honalo. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 204
Hamakua Coast . . . . . . . 256
Kainaliu . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 204
Waipiʻo Valley . . . . . . . . . . 256
South Point. . . . . . . . . . . . 308
Ocean View & Around. . . . 310
MAUI. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 312
Lahaina . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 318
West Maui . . . . . . . . . . . . 332
Lahaina to Maʻalaea . . . . 332
Lahaina to Kaʻanapali. . . 333
Kaʻanapali. . . . . . . . . . . . . 335
Kealakekua . . . . . . . . . . . . 205
Honokaʻa & Around. . . . . . 261
Honokowai. . . . . . . . . . . . . 340
Captain Cook . . . . . . . . . . 208
Kalopa State
Recreation Area . . . . . . . . 264
Kahana. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 341
Napili . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 341
Laupahoehoe . . . . . . . . . . 264
Kapalua & Around . . . . . . 343
Hakalau & Around . . . . . . 265
Kahekili Highway . . . . . . . 347
Kealakekua Bay State
Historical Park . . . . . . . . . . 211
Honaunau . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 213
ON THE ROAD
Kahului. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 349
Wailuku . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 356
Wailuku to ʻIao
Valley State Park . . . . . . . 359
ʻIao Valley State Park . . . 359
Puʻunene. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 360
RON DAHLQUIST / GETTY IMAGES ©
ʻIao Valley &
Central Maui. . . . . . . . . 349
Kealia Pond National
Wildlife Refuge. . . . . . . . . . 361
Maʻalaea . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 361
HIGHWAY TO LANAʻI CITY
P428
Molokini Crater. . . . . . . . . 363
Kihei & South Maui . . . . 363
Kihei. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 363
Wailea. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 374
Makena. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 378
Beyond Makena . . . . . . . . 380
North Shore &
Upcountry. . . . . . . . . . . . 381
Paʻia. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 381
Haliʻimaile. . . . . . . . . . . . . 386
Makawao. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 388
Haʻiku. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 390
Pukalani & Around. . . . . . . 391
Kula. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 392
Keokea. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 394
ʻUlupalakua Ranch &
Beyond. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 394
Kaumahina State
Wayside Park . . . . . . . . . . 397
Hulopoʻe &
Manele Bays. . . . . . . . . . . 435
Honomanu Bay. . . . . . . . . 398
Keomuku Road. . . . . . . . . 437
Kalaloa Point. . . . . . . . . . . 399
Road to Garden
of the Gods. . . . . . . . . . . . 438
Keʻanae . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 399
Wailua. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 401
Wailua to Nahiku . . . . . . . 401
Nahiku . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 402
ʻUlaʻino Road. . . . . . . . . . . 402
Waiʻanapanapa
State Park. . . . . . . . . . . . . 403
Hana & East Maui. . . . . 404
Hana. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 404
Hana to Kipahulu. . . . . . . 408
Kipahulu. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 409
Kaumalapaʻu Highway. . . 438
MOLOKAʻI. . . . . . . . 440
Kaunakakai . . . . . . . . . . . 447
East Molokaʻi. . . . . . . . . 453
Kawela. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 453
Kamalo. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 453
ʻUalapuʻe. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 454
Kaluaʻaha. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 454
ʻIliʻiliʻopae Heiau. . . . . . . . 454
Piʻilani Highway . . . . . . . . 409
Pukoʻo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 455
Haleakalā
National Park . . . . . . . . . 410
Waialua. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 455
Waialua to Halawa. . . . . . 456
Summit Area. . . . . . . . . . . . 411
Halawa Valley . . . . . . . . . . 457
Kipahulu Area
(ʻOheʻo Gulch) . . . . . . . . . . 419
Pali Coast. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 458
KAHOʻOLAWE. . . . . . 422
Kamakou Area . . . . . . . . . 458
Puohokamaka Falls . . . . . 397
LANAʻI. . . . . . . . . . . . 424
Kalaʻe. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 463
Haipuaʻena Falls. . . . . . . . 397
Lanaʻi City. . . . . . . . . . . . . 428
The Road to Hana. . . . . . 395
Twin Falls. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 396
Huelo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 396
Koʻolau Forest Reserve. . 397
Waikamoi Nature Trail. . . 397
Waikamoi Falls . . . . . . . . . 397
Garden of Eden
Arboretum. . . . . . . . . . . . . 397
Munro Trail. . . . . . . . . . . . .434
Central Molokaʻi. . . . . . 458
Kualapuʻu . . . . . . . . . . . . . 463
Palaʻau State Park. . . . . . 464
Hoʻolehua . . . . . . . . . . . . . 465
Contents
UNDERSTAND
Moʻomomi Beach. . . . . . . 465
Kalaupapa National
Historical Park . . . . . . . 466
Poʻipu &
the South Shore. . . . . . . 538
Koloa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 539
Hawaii Today. . . . . . . . . . 580
History. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 583
Hawaii’s People. . . . . . . . 596
West End . . . . . . . . . . . . 469
Poʻipu. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 542
Maunaloa. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 470
Kalaheo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 553
Kaluakoi Resort Area. . . . 470
West End Beaches. . . . . . . 472
Waimea Canyon & the
Westside . . . . . . . . . . . . . 555
Hawaii’s Arts &
Crafts. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 611
NI‘IHAU . . . . . . . . . . . 474
ʻEleʻele & Numila. . . . . . . 556
Lei. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 619
Port Allen. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 556
Land & Sea . . . . . . . . . . . 622
KAUAʻI. . . . . . . . . . . . 476
Lihuʻe. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 481
Kapaʻa &
the Eastside . . . . . . . . . . 491
Wailua. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 492
Hanapepe . . . . . . . . . . . . . 558
Waimea . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 561
Barking Sands . . . . . . . . . 567
Polihale State Park . . . . . 567
Waimea Canyon
State Park. . . . . . . . . . . . . 567
Kapaʻa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 502
Kokeʻe State Park . . . . . . 569
Anahola. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 508
Koʻolau Road. . . . . . . . . . . 509
Hanalei Bay &
the North Shore. . . . . . 509
Green Hawaii. . . . . . . . . . 632
Kekaha. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 566
Waipouli. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 500
Kealia Beach. . . . . . . . . . . 507
Hawaii’s Cuisine. . . . . . . 602
PAPAHĀNAUMOKUĀKEA MARINE
NATIONAL
MONUMENT . . . . . . . 576
SURVIVAL
GUIDE
Directory A–Z. . . . . . . . . 638
Transportation . . . . . . . . 649
Glossary. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 655
Index. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 660
Map Legend. . . . . . . . . . . 678
Kilauea. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 510
Kalihiwai. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 515
ʻAnini . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 515
Princeville . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 516
Hanalei Valley. . . . . . . . . . . 521
Hanalei. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 522
Around Hanalei. . . . . . . . . 532
Haʻena . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 533
Haʻena State Park . . . . . . 535
Itineraries. . . . . . . . . . . . . 30
40
41
Outdoor Activities. . . . . . 40
Surng Nov–Mar
Whale Watching Jan–Mar
Hiking Apr–Sep
Top AdrenalineFueled Experiences
Surf the giant waves of Pipeline off Oʻahu’s
North Shore (p155)
Kayak the Na Pali Coast past Hanalei on
Kauaʻi (p536)
Night dive or snorkel with manta rays on the
Kona coast of Hawaiʻi the Big Island (p184)
Hike and backpack around Haleakalā’s
volcanic summit on Maui (p410)
Hawaii’s Arts & Crafts. . 611
Land & Sea. . . . . . . . . . . 622
Kayaking May–Sep
Snorkeling & Scuba Diving Apr–Oct
Windsurng & Kitesurng Jun–Aug
Travel with Children . . . . 55
Lei . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 619
Best Time to Go for...
Swimming Year-round
Ride a mule down Molokaʻi’s sea cliffs to the
Kalaupapa Peninsula (p466)
Rent a 4WD Jeep to drive the Munro Trail on
Lanaʻi (p434)
Viewpoint, Na Pali Coast, Kauaʻi
Plan Your Trip
Outdoor Activities
Nature has given the Hawaiian Islands such awesome scenery, you
could do nothing but lie on your beach towel. But you didn’t come
all this way merely to rest on your elbows. If you’re ready for the
outdoor adventure of a lifetime, the real question is – how much
time have you got?
At Sea
The Pacific Ocean – you probably noticed
it on the way over. Here are all the ways
Hawaii lets you play in it.
Beaches & Swimming
When it comes to swimming beaches,
you’ll be spoiled for choice in Hawaii.
Coastal strands come in a rainbow of hues
and an infinite variety of textures – with
sand sparkling white, tan, black, charcoal,
green or orange, or scattered with seaglass, pebbles and boulders, and cratered
with lava-rock tide pools.
By law, all beaches in Hawaii are open
to the public below the high-tide line.
Private landowners can prevent access to
their shoreline from land, but not by watercraft. Resort hotel beaches provide limited
beach-access parking spots for the public,
occasionally charging a small fee.
Most of Hawaii’s hundreds of state and
county beach parks have basic restrooms
and outdoor cold-water showers; about
half are patrolled by lifeguards. A few
parks have gates that close during specified hours or sometimes they’re signposted
as off-limits from sunset until sunrise.
Nudity is legally prohibited on all public
beaches in Hawaii. However, at a scant
handful of beaches going nude or topless
sunbathing by women is grudgingly tolerated. Law enforcement at de facto nude
beaches can vary, from absolutely nothing
to a stern verbal warning to a written
ticket with a mandatory fine and possible
court appearance.
Swimming with captive and wild dolphins is a controversial activity in Hawaii;
see p634 for more information.
Best Swimming Spots & Seasons
Water temperatures are idyllic, ranging
from 72°F to 80°F year-round. You can
usually find somewhere to swim, no matter what time of year you visit: when it’s
rough or rainy on one side of any island,
it’ll usually be calm and clear on another.
Only on Molokaʻi is the swimming not
great; there, incessant winds often make
ocean waters too rough year-round.
Each island has four distinct coastal
areas – north shore, south shore, leeward
(west) coast and windward (east) coast –
each with its own peculiar weather and
water conditions. As a rule, the best places
to swim in the winter are along the south
shores, and in summer, along the north
shores. Keep this in mind when deciding
where to book your accommodations.
Ocean Safety Tips
Never turn your back on the ocean. Waves
and water conditions can change abruptly,
so pay attention and never swim alone.
Drowning is the leading cause of accidental death for tourists. To check on current beach hazard warnings, visit http://
oceansafety.ancl.hawaii.edu/alerts.
Rogue waves All waves are not the same. They
often come in sets: some bigger, some smaller.
PL AN YOUR TRIP O U T D O O R AC T I V I T I E S
JAMES OSMOND / GETTY IMAGES ©
Na Pali Coast
State Park. . . . . . . . . . . . . 536
SPECIAL FEATURES
On the
Road
Kaua‘i
p476
Ni‘ihau
p474
O‘ahu
p62
Moloka‘i
p440
Lana‘i
p424
Maui
p312
Kaho‘olawe
p422
Hawai‘i
the Big Island
p172
Lisianski
Island
25°N
ELEVATION
Tern Island
French
Frigate
Shoals
11000ft
9000ft
0
e
# 0
500 km
250 miles
nt
Necker
Island
Tropic of Cancer
155°W
MarPapahā
ine
Natnaumo
iona kuā
Gardner
l Mo kea
nu m
Pinnacles
e
Laysan
Island
160°W
165°W
Nihoa
Island
4
Ni‘ihau
7000ft
5000ft
Main H
awai
i
Kaua‘i
O‘ahu
3000ft
2000ft
1000ft
Waipiʻo Valley
Step back into
ancient times (p256)
33
3
3
Ko h al a C o
\
# Hawi
15°N
Ha m
Co
a
Honoka‘a st
\
#
\
#
170°W
\
#
SOUTH
KOHALA
Waimea
(Kamuela)
15°N
0
e
#0
50 km
25 miles
Mauna Kea
Stargaze atop Hawaii’s
highest mountain (p250)
165°W
as t
Waipi‘o
Valley
Kawaihae
aku
a
160°W
‘Upolu
Point
175°W
ds
Hawai‘i
the Big
Island
0
20°N
Moloka‘i
Maui
Lana‘i
Kaho‘olawe
4000ft
20°N
an I
slan
3
3
3
333
333
3
333
33
333
3333
33
3
333
3
33
333
333
3
155°W
Midway
Atoll
170°W
175°W
Hawaii
20°N
\
#
lu
ai
W
a
Co
Keauhou
st
\
#Kealakekua
\
# Captain Cook
Kealakekua
Bay
#
Ho‘okena \
]
#
Rd
Hakalau Forest
National
Wildlife Refuge
SOUTH
KONA
#
\
5°N
Mauna Loa
(13796ft)
R
#
\
Mountain
View
Volcano
÷
#
Hawai‘i
Volcanoes
National Park
Pahala
KA‘U
#
\
5°N
Pahoa
\
#
Cape
Kumukahi
19°30'N
PUNA
÷
#
Hawai‘i
Volcanoes
National Park
#
Miloli‘i \
Kea‘au
\
#
\
# Punalu‘u
Palima
Point
160°W
a
\
#
Hilo
River
Hawai‘i
the Big Island
\
# Holualoa
10°N
Hilo
Bay
HILO
ku
n
Ko
19°30'N
Sad dle
Kailua-Kona
\
#
Hakalau Forest
National
Wildlife Refuge
155°W
Mauna Kea
(13796ft)
R
Equ
Hawai‘i Volcanoes
National Park
Trek a volcano zone (p289)
155°W
10°N
Kailua-Kona
Night-dive and snorkel
NORTH
with mantas
(p178)
KONA
160°W
Waikoloa
Village
\
#
155°W
5°S
South Point
(Ka Lae)
155°30'W
Na‘alehu
156°W
19°N
19°N
5°S
Hanalei Bay Princeville
La‘ie
#
\
Waialua
Mt Ka‘ala
(4025ft)
#
\
15°N
#
\
Makaha
#
\
Wai‘anae
O‘ahu
#
]
H2
U
Ó
V
10°N
nn
el
ha
oC
H3
U
Ó
V
Pearl
Harbor
145°W
Pearl Harbor
Emotionally gripping
10°NWWII memorials (p101)
Pearl
City
#
]
15°N
Mokapu
Point
# Kailua
\
Waimanalo Bay
#
\
#
Honolulu ^
H1
U
V
Ó
33
33
140°W
Mule-ride down
Kalaupapa
dizzying sea cliffs (p466)
National
Historical Park
Halawa
#
\ Kalawao
Ho‘olehua #
\
Valley
#
\
Maunaloa
Kualapu‘u
R
#
\
l
Kamakou
ne
Pu‘u Moloka‘i
#
\
(4961ft)
R
Waialua a n
#
\
Nana
5°N
5°N
h
#
\
Puko‘o
(1381ft) Kaunakakai
oC
#
\
lol
Kamalo
Pai
21°N
\
Kapalua #
#
\ Kahakuloa
150°W
Waimanalo
Makapu‘u
Point
WAIKIKI
Kalaupapa
10°N
0
e
#0
30 km
15 miles
Road to Hana
5°N
Maui’s jaw-dropping
coastal drive (p395)
Pu‘u Waihe‘e Kahului
Ka‘anapali #
Bay
#
\
\ Kukui
(5788ft)R
#
\ Pa‘ia
Lana‘i
#
] #
\
Kahului
#
\
Wailuku
Lahaina
Munro Trail
Lana‘i City #
\
#
\Olowalu
R Lana‘ihale
(3370ft)
Maui
#
\ Kihei
ah
l a ik
ik
h
iC
57°W
5°S
Molokini
Crescent-shaped offshore
volcanic crater (p363)
Ma‘alaea
Bay
Keokea
#
\
Ke‘anae
ae
H an
a Hw
l
Pu‘u
u Moiwi
Moi R
(1161ft)
(11
\
Wailea #
ak
R
Kaho‘olawe
eik
#
\
y
\
Hana #
33
33
÷
#
Kula
R
Haleakalā
#
\
Pu‘u‘ula‘ula National Park
(10023ft) Kaupo
\
Molokini #
#
\
Makena
a
Luamakika
‘A
l
(1482ft)
82ft)
al
ne
an
156°30'W
Kea
20°30'N
5°S
l
ne
an
Manele
Bay
Munro Trail
Epic 4WD or
hiking adventure (p434)
140°W
Ch
150°W
au
u‘
‘A
uator
30 km
15 miles
Kualoa
Kane‘ohee
Bay
158°W
150°W
H1
U
V
Ó
Kapolei
#
\
Wahiawa
20°N
Waikiki Beach
Sunset hula, music and
mai tais (p105)
140°W
R
Waimea Canyon
Marvelous ‘Grand Canyon
of the Pacific’ (p567)
ah
0
e
# 0
Kahuku
#
\
W
i Cha nnel
5°S
Haleakalā National Park
Volcanic summit
above the clouds (p410)
156°W
#
\
Waimea \
#
#
\
‘Ilio
Point
ie
'ie '
Ka
el
20°N
Waimea
Bay
Hale‘iwa
21°30'N
15°N
nn
Koloa
a
Po‘ipu
#
\
25°N
157°30'W
150°W
20°NNorth Shore
Big-time waves
for surfing pros (p152)
#
\
#
Lihu‘e
9°W
Kawaihoa
Point
Ka‘ena
Point
e
#
\
Hanapepe
ha
150°W
iC
Ni‘ihau
Waimea
#
\
140°W
(1250ft)
Pueo
Point
44
#
\
Mt Kahilii R
(3089ft)
#
\
Hanalei Bay
Cinematic North Shore
beaches (p523)
140°W
h
ka
RPani‘au
Pu‘uwai
la
#
\
30 km
15 miles
135°W
150°W
Ki‘i
Landing
#
\
#
\
st
#
\
#
o a Ha‘ena \
Kilauea
K
ila
aue
iC
l
a
Hanaleii
Na P
‘ le
R Mt Wai‘ale‘ale
(5148ft)
#
\
Waimea
Kaua‘i
Kapa‘a
Canyon
25°N
u
Ka
25°N
0
e
# 0
140°W
Na Pali Coast
An adventure by
land or sea (p536)
OUR STORY
A beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of
adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed
for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to
Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but
inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling
together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap.
Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born.
Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Melbourne, London and
Oakland, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook
should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.
OUR WRITERS
Sara Benson
Coordinating Author, O‘ahu, Papahānaumokuākea Marine National Monument
After graduating from college in Chicago, Sara jumped on a plane to California
with just one suitcase and $100 in her pocket. She then hopped across the
Pacific to Japan, with stints living on Maui, Hawai‘i the Big Island and O‘ahu and
tramping all around Kaua‘i, Moloka‘i and Lana‘i. Sara is an avid hiker, backpacker
and outdoor enthusiast who has worked as a seasonal ranger for the National
Park Service and as a volunteer at Hawai‘i Volcanoes National Park. Already the author of more
than 50 travel and nonfiction books, Sara also cowrote Lonely Planet’s Discover Honolulu, Waikiki
& O‘ahu guide. Follow her latest adventures online at www.indietraveler.blogspot.com, www.indietraveler.net, @indie_traveler on Twitter and indietraveler on Instagram.
Read more about Sara at:
lonelyplanet.com/members/Sara_Benson
Amy C Balfour
Maui Amy first visited Hawaii as a toddler. For this book, she snorkeled Molokini
Crater, clutched the wheel on the Kahekili Hwy, ate a juicy burger beside a wild
boar and watched the sunrise at Haleakalā. Amy has authored or coauthored
more than a dozen books for Lonely Planet, including California, Caribbean
Islands and Southwest USA. She has also written for Backpacker, Every Day
with Rachael Ray, Redbook, Southern Living and Women’s Health.
Read more about Amy at:
lonelyplanet.com/members/amycbalfour
Adam Karlin
Hawaiʻi the Big Island (Kailua-Kona & Around, South Kona Coast, North Kona
Coast, South Kohala & Puna) Hawaiʻi was about as good as assignments get for
Adam Karlin. He always gets asked this, so the answer is: yes, sometimes authors bring their significant others along on trips. He and his fiancée got an early
honeymoon snorkeling with mantas, watching lava pour into the ocean, bathing
in tide pools and endlessly exploring. He also celebrated his birthday on a Puna
clifftop watching the waves, a full moon, and lava coming down the mountain. Adam sheepishly
admits that sometimes writing for Lonely Planet is pretty damn awesome. He should know; he’s
written some 30 guidebooks for the company.
OVER MORE
PAGE WRITERS
Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
ABN 36 005 607 983
Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasonable care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about
11th edition – Sep 2013
the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maxiISBN 978 1 74220 415 4
mum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use.
© Lonely Planet 2013 Photographs © as indicated 2013
10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
Printed in China
All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic,
mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the
written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent
and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such
as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.
Adam Skolnick
Kaua‘i Adam writes about travel, culture, health and politics for Lonely Planet,
Outside, Men’s Health and Travel & Leisure. He has coauthored 19 Lonely Planet
guidebooks to destinations in Europe, the US, Central America and Asia, and has
never found an island or place he enjoys more than Kauaʻi. You can read more of
his work at www.adamskolnick.com or find him on Twitter (@adamskolnick).
Paul Stiles
Hawai‘i the Big Island (North Kohala, Waimea, Mauna Kea & Saddle Rd, Hamakua
Coast, Hilo, Hawai‘i Volcanoes National Park & Ka‘u) When he was 21, Paul bought
an old motorcycle in London and drove it to Tunisia. That did it for him. Since
then he has explored 60 countries. With a passion for exotic islands, he’s covered
Madagascar, Kauaʻi and Borneo for Lonely Planet, and lived for four years in Tenerife, the tallest volcano in the Atlantic Ocean: great training for Hawaii. For this
book he sampled everything in Hilo Farmers Market and discovered ‘it’s all good!’
Read more about Paul at:
lonelyplanet.com/members/paulwstiles
Ryan Ver Berkmoes
Lana‘i, Moloka‘i Ryan Ver Berkmoes first visited Moloka‘i in 1987 and remembers
being intoxicated by lush, rural scenery on the drive east (or maybe it was the
fumes from the heaps of mangos fermenting along the side of the road). He’s
been back often, usually renting a beachside house where between novels he
looks without envy at the busy lights of Maui across the channel. For this edition
of Hawaii, Ryan also noted the many changes Larry Ellison is bringing to Lana‘i,
including the new grocery store dress code.
30
LONELY PLANET / GETTY IMAGES ©
Plan Your Trip
Itineraries
É
‚
Haʻena Hanalei
State
Park
‘Anini Beach
֥
Na Pali Coast #
#
#Ù
North
Shore
Koke‘e State Park #
÷
Kaua‘i
Waimea Canyon #
÷
State Park
•
#
É•
#
Port
Allen South Po‘ipu
Shore
É
Ni‘ihau
É
•
#
d
ar
dw t
in as
W Co
North
Shore
O‘ahu
Honolulu
#
•
# •
Ù
#
‚
PA C I F I C
OCEAN
Kailua Bay
•
#
•
# Waimanalo
É
•
#
Pearl Waikiki
Harbor
Hanauma
Bay
1A0YS Oʻahu & Kauaʻi
D
Think of this as your ‘town and country’
trip to Hawaii. Start off in the breezy
streets of Honolulu, sleeping in mod
style at the classic beach resort of
Waikiki. Then trade the big-city buzz for
the small-town scene on verdant Kauaʻi.
Touch down for four days on Oʻahu amid
the skyscrapers of Honolulu. Between sessions at the beaches of Waikiki, eat your
heart out in the capital, go clubbing and
art-gallery hopping in Chinatown, visit the
Bishop Museum and ʻIolani Palace, experience WWII history at Pearl Harbor, enjoy
live Hawaiian music and hula at sunset,
hike up Diamond Head and tour Doris
Duke’s incomparable Shangri La.
Now relax. Heading east, spend a
morning snorkeling at Hanauma Bay.
In the afternoon, swim off the white-sand
beaches of Waimanalo or surf, kayak,
windsurf and kiteboard at Kailua Bay.
Wend your way along the Windward
Coast, with its jungly hiking trails, ancient lava-rock fishponds and captivating
offshore islands. Save at least an afternoon
to savor the world-famous beaches of the
North Shore. In winter, watch big-wave
31
PL AN YOUR TRIP I tineraries
Poʻipu (p542), Kauaʻi
surfers carving; in summer, snorkel with
sea turtles.
Hop a plane over to Kauaʻi, full of heartstopping scenery, for the next six days.
Start off nice and easy in Poʻipu with a
lazy snooze on the sunny beaches of the
South Shore or head straight to Port Allen for a snorkeling or scuba-diving boat
trip. Then lace up your hiking boots and
spend a day in Waimea Canyon State
Park and Kokeʻe State Park, where you
can traverse knife-edged 2000ft-high cliffs
and peek into the ‘Grand Canyon of the
Pacific.’
Giddy-up back around to Kauaʻi’s North
Shore, which deserves a couple of days.
Get in some swimming, snorkeling and
windsurfing at ʻAnini Beach, and check
out the beach-bum town of Hanalei for
surfing and stand up paddle boarding on
the bay or kayaking a peaceful river. Road
trips hardly get more scenic than the drive
to the very end of the road at Haʻena
State Park.
OK, ready? Na Pali Coast State Park
is what’s left: in summer, kayak 17 miles
beside Kauaʻi’s epic sea cliffs; otherwise,
backpack 11 miles to Keʻe Beach. Either
way, you’ve saved the best for last.
32
PL AN YOUR TRIP I tineraries
Kapalua
Maui
•
#
•
#
É
É
É
É
Lahaina •
#
Pa‘ia
Wai‘anapanapa
÷ State Park
÷ #
#
Ma‘alaea •
# É
•
#
•
#
Hana
Wailea
‘Oheo
Haleakalā
National
Gulch
Park
Waipi‘o
Valley
Ha
•
#
ma
ku
É
aC
oa
É
É •
#
Mauna R
Kea
É
Hawai‘i the
Big Island
•
#
Hilo
#
Volcano •
÷
#
#
South Kona •
st
É
É
Pu‘uhonua o Honaunau •
#
÷
National Historic Park #
É
North Kona •
#
#
Kailua-Kona •
É
PA C I F I C
OCEAN
Hawai‘i
Volcanoes
National Park
33
Looking for tropical adventures you can brag
about? Hit up Maui for its postcard-perfect
honeymoon beaches, serpentine coastal
drives and hang-loose surf scene. When you’re
ready for bigger thrills, jet to Hawaiʻi the Big
Island, where erupting volcanoes, mysterious
valleys and deserted beaches await.
BRIGITTE MERZ / GETTY IMAGES ©
With less than a week to spend on Maui, start
in the old whaling town of Lahaina with its
pirates’ treasure chest of historical sites. In
winter, spot whales breaching offshore or take a
whale-watching boat tour from Maʻalaea. For
golden-sand beaches idyllic for swimming and
snorkeling, drive north up the coast to bayfront
Kapalua and south to the resorts of Wailea
and beyond.
Make sure you get to Haleakalā National
Park. Spend a day hiking around an ancient
volcano and catching sunrise from the summit.
Then drive the cliff-hugging Road to Hana,
stopping to kick back on the black-sand beach
at Waiʻanapanapa State Park. Go past Hana
for a bamboo rainforest hike and to take a
dip in the cascading waterfall pools of ʻOheʻo
Gulch. Backtrack up the coast to the surf town
of Paʻia, chowing ʻono grinds (delicious food)
and admiring the daredevil windsurfers at
Hoʻokipa Beach.
The Big Island can take a week and then
some. Base yourself half the time in KailuaKona, alternating trips to the beaches – especially those in North Kona and on the South
Kohala ‘Gold Coast’ – with feeling the ancient
mana (spiritual essence) at Puʻuhonua o Honaunau National Historical Park and tasting
the produce at the coffee farms of South Kona.
Take a leisurely drive along the Hamakua
Coast, making sure to gaze out on Waipiʻo
Valley, if not to hike down to the wild beach.
Walk around harborfront Hilo, exploring its
historic architecture, the downtown farmers
market and the excellent ʻImiloa Astronomy
Center of Hawaiʻi and Pacific Tsunami Museum.
Don’t miss detouring up to Mauna Kea for an
evening of stargazing. Spend at least a full day
in Hawaiʻi Volcanoes National Park: hike
the otherworldly Kilauea Iki Trail, drive along
the Chain of Craters Road and hopefully trek
or take a boat ride to see some hot lava glowing
fiery red after dark. Afterward retreat to your
own rainforest cottage B&B in nearby Volcano.
PL AN YOUR TRIP I tineraries
RON DAHLQUIST / GETTY IMAGES ©
Top: Haleakalā National Park (p410), Maui
Bottom: Lahaina (p318), Maui
2 KS Maui & Hawaiʻi
WEE
34
PL AN YOUR TRIP I tineraries
Go big or go home – if that’s your motto
then pair Hawaii’s busiest island with
its biggest. Beach-resort chic, ancient
heiau (temples) set beside taro fields,
mountainous hiking trails and azure bays
with white-sand beaches let you experience
the best of almost everything Hawaii offers.
ANN CECIL / GETTY IMAGES ©
Start on the capital island of Oʻahu, basing
yourself in Kailua for five days. Among the
many sights around Honolulu, don’t miss
the WWII memorials at Pearl Harbor or the
Honolulu Academy of Arts. Snorkel one morning at Hanauma Bay and in the afternoon
hike to Honolulu’s Manoa Falls after visiting
the Lyon Arboretum. Take a class in lei making,
hula dancing or ukulele playing in Waikiki,
where you can end the day with a sunset catamaran ‘booze cruise’ or live Hawaiian music
and hula at oceanfront bars.
Drive up the Windward Coast, stopping
at scenic beaches and to hike into the misty
Koʻolau Mountains. Keep going past the coves
of Turtle Bay to end up on the North Shore,
famous for its big-wave surfing in winter. Stroll
and grab a shave ice in Haleʻiwa, then take a
joy-ride flight at Dillingham Airfield. Dip your
toes into the lagoons at Ko Olina before cruising up the workaday Waiʻanae Coast for a
windy walk in Kaʻena Point State Park.
Mosey over to the Big Island and book a B&B
in South Kona for a few nights. For ocean
adventures, go scuba diving or snorkeling at
night with manta rays around Kailua-Kona
and hike in to snorkel at Kealakekua Bay or
nearby Two-Step. Down in Kaʻu, hike to Green
Sands Beach near windswept Ka Lae, the USA’s
southernmost geographical point. Next up,
Hawaiʻi Volcanoes National Park, home of
the world’s longest-running volcanic eruption,
offers alien-looking moonscapes for hiking.
Spend a night or two in Hilo, taking time to
drive partway up Mauna Kea for stargazing
after dark. After rolling up and down along
the Hamakua Coast, amble the old sugarplantation town of Honokaʻa before stepping
into ancient Waipiʻo Valley. Giddyup through
Waimea (Kamuela), a paniolo (Hawaiian
cowboy) outpost, into the quiet countryside of
North Kohala: hike into sculpted Pololu Valley, circle around Moʻokini Heiau and wander
quaint Hawi.
M SWEET / GETTY IMAGES ©
1A0YS Oʻahu & Hawaiʻi
D
Top: Waikiki Beach (p105), Waikiki, Oʻahu
Bottom: Shrimp Shack (p149), Punaluʻu, Oʻahu
35
/ LONELY PLANET IMAGES ©
PL AN YOUR TRIP I tineraries
É
É
•
#
PA C I F I C
OCEAN
É
ast ua
Text
Hilo
É
•
#
÷
#
Hawaiʻi Volcanoes
National Park
•
#
É
Hanauma
Bay
•
#
•
#
÷
#
É
É
•
#
Honolulu •
#
Waikiki
Kealakekua
Bay
É
Ko Olina
#
South Kona •
É
É
ae
an
ai' st
W Coa
Kailua
•
#
•
#
Mauna R
Kea
Hawai‘i
the Big
Island
É
O‘ahu
É
É
É
Kailua- •
#
Kona
Pearl
Harbor
•
#
O‘ahu
Waimea
(Kamuela)
É
Hale‘iwa
Pololo
•
# Valley
•
#
Waipiʻo Valley
•
#
Ha
•
#
m
•
# Honoka‘a
Co ak
É
•
#
÷
#
rd
wa
nd st
Wi Coa
Ka‘ena Point
State Park
•
#
É
North
Shore
Hawi
#
Mo‘okini •
Heiau
É
/ LONELY PLANET IMAGES ©
Turtle
Bay
•
#
•
#
Ka Lae
PA C I F I C
OCEAN
36
PL AN YOUR TRIP I tineraries
Kalaupapa
Peninsula
West End
Beaches
•
#
É
÷ Kamakou
#
Preserve
Kaunakakai
•
# Halawa
PA C I F I C
OCEAN
Valley
É
Honolua
Bay
•
#
É
Kapalua •
#
Shipwreck
‘Iao Valley
Ka‘anapali
Beach
•
# State Park
Pa‘ia
Ù
# Munro
Garden of •
•
#
#
÷ É
#
•
#
the Gods
Trail
Lahaina
#
É
Lana‘i •
•
#
City É
Lana‘i
Ma‘alaea
•
#
•
#
Kihei
Naha
Ù
#
•
#
Hulopo‘e
Maui
#
Wailea •
Beach Manele
Bay
Makena Ù
#
Beach
É
É
É
É
É
É
‚
É
É
É
‚
Kaho‘olawe
É
•
#
É
É
Moloka‘i
É
•
#
Ù
#
UPCOUNTRY
Haleakalā
÷ National
#
Park
É
•
#
Hana
37
JOHN ELK / GETTY IMAGES ©
You’ve got time, you’ve got money and you
want outdoor experiences and peaceful
relaxation in equal measure. But you’re also
willing to rough it when the rewards – hidden
waterfalls, geological wonders – make it
worthwhile. Mix up Maui, Lanaʻi and Molokaʻi
for an unforgettable island-hopping journey
by airplane and possibly boat.
First, spend five or six days on Maui. Make it
easy on yourself by getting a resort hotel room
or a condo for your entire stay at Kaʻanapali
or Kapalua in West Maui or Kihei or Wailea
in South Maui. Immerse yourself in the whaling
history of Lahaina or take a whale-watching
cruise from Maʻalaea. When it’s beach time,
some of Hawaii’s wildest coastal strands are
nearby, like Honolua Bay or Makena’s Big
Beach.
Take one full day to hike the summit moonscapes of Haleakalā National Park and another to lazily drive down the Road to Hana,
stopping off for waterfall hikes and to buy fresh
coconuts, before looping back to the laid-back
surf town of Paʻia. If you’ve got time to spare,
visit the small farms, botanical gardens and
ranches of Maui’s Upcountry, where you can
take a horseback ride or go ziplining. Before you
head back to Kahului’s airport, admire the legendary jungle spire at ʻIao Valley State Park.
Next, hop over to Lanaʻi and take your
pick of world-class resorts located in Lanaʻi
City and at Manele Bay, staying three nights.
Things have been a little hectic so far, so play
a round of golf, snorkel at Hulopoʻe Beach
or take in the vistas from the Munro Trail.
To really get away from it all, rent a 4WD and
head for the Garden of the Gods, Shipwreck
Beach or down the dusty track to Naha.
Last, spend four or five days on Molokaʻi.
Check into a condo or beachfront B&B after
arriving in small-town Kaunakakai. Day one:
explore East Molokaʻi, checking out Halawa
Valley and perhaps a waterfall or two. Day two:
trek to the Kalaupapa Peninsula and munch
macadamia nuts at Purdy’s Farm. Day three:
head out to the remote beaches of the island’s
West End or penetrate the dense forests of the
Kamakou Preserve. Days four and five: relax.
PL AN YOUR TRIP I tineraries
RON DAHLQUIST / GETTY IMAGES ©
Top: Kalaupapa National Historical Park (p466), Molokaʻi
Bottom: Garden of the Gods (p438), Lanaʻi
2 KS Maui, Lanaʻi &
Molokaʻi
WEE
38
PL AN YOUR TRIP I tineraries
If you want to live in the scenery – and not
just admire it – take a month off on Oʻahu,
Maui, Hawaiʻi and Kauaʻi. Find the truly offthe-beaten-track adventures of a lifetime
and plenty of traditional and contemporary
Hawaiian culture, not to mention sunset mai
tais galore.
ANDRE SEALE / GETTY IMAGES ©
If the jam-packed beaches of Waikiki and
modern high-rises of Honolulu seem too
hectic, ease into your ‘rubbah slippahs’ on the
island’s longest sandy beach at Waimanalo.
Rent a beach cottage in Kailua or anywhere
along Oʻahu’s North Shore, where world-class
surfing beaches are calm enough for swimming and snorkeling in summer. To really leave
the tourist crowds behind, get to know the
Waiʻanae Coast, where big-wave surfers worship at Makaha Beach.
Near Maui’s old whaling port of Lahaina, laze
on West Maui’s beautiful beaches. Drive north
around the peninsula, stopping to snorkel in summer at Honolua Bay, then get on the scenic, narrow cliffside Kahekili Highway. Swing down to
South Maui and book a snorkel cruise to Molokini Crater, or check out migratory whales in
winter at Kihei. After you ascend to the summit
of Haleakalā National Park and snake down
the Road to Hana, find your way back to civilization on the rugged Piʻilani Highway.
A week on the Big Island is barely enough
but it’ll have to do. Soak up the sunshine north
of Kailua-Kona, where you can hike or 4WD
to gorgeous strands like Makalawena Beach in
Kekaha Kai State Park or the giant Puako
Tide Pools for snorkeling with tropical fish. After
you drive past the lava deserts of Kaʻu and round
Hawaii’s southernmost tip at Ka Lae, stop off at
Hawaiʻi Volcanoes National Park before losing track of time in the hippie paradise of Puna.
Kauaʻi is Hollywood’s ready-made movie set.
These soul-inspiring canyons, cliffs, waterfalls,
rivers, bays and beaches are more than just
pretty backdrops, however. Kayak past sacred
temples along the Wailua River, then glimpse
rainy Mt Waiʻaleʻale while hiking the rolling
Kuilau Ridge & Moalepe Trails. If you have
kids, splash around at Lydgate Beach Park.
Charming Kapaʻa is worth a wander before
bedding down in peaceful Kilauea, a jumpingoff point to the sleepy backwaters of Kauaʻi’s
North Shore.
AMIT BASU PHOTOGRAPHY / GETTY IMAGES ©
1 TH The Big Four: Oʻahu,
Maui, Hawaiʻi & Kauaʻi
MON
Top: Piʻilani Highway (p409), Maui
Bottom: Humpback whale off Kailua-Kona
(p186), Hawaiʻi the Big Island
39
PL AN YOUR TRIP I tineraries
Kilauea
•
#
•
# Kapa‘a
•
#
North
Shore
•
#
Makaha
#
Beach Ù
rd
wa
nd st
Wi Coa
Honolua
•
# Kailua
•
# •
Bay
#
Haleakalā
Honolulu Waimanalo
National Park
O‘ahu
•
#
Lahaina
Maui
É
÷
#
•
#Hana
‚
#
•
# •
‚
Pi‘ilani Hwy
‚
Puako Tide Pools •
#
Kekaha Kai #
•
#
÷
State Park
Hawai‘i the Puna
•
#
Big Island
•
#
Kailua-Kona
É
PA C I F I C
OCEAN
É
Molokini
Crater
•
#
÷
#
É
‚
e
na
i'a st
WaCoa
•
#
Kihei
‚
÷ Lydgate
#
•
# Beach Park
Kuilau Ridge & Wailua
Moalepe Trails River
‚
•
#
É
Kaua‘i
É
North
Shore
#
Ka‘u •
•
#
Hawai‘i
Volcanoes
National Park
Ka Lae
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