Chacraraju and Taulliraju, Cordillera Blanca. The Frenchmen

Chacraraju and Taulliraju, Cordillera Blanca. The Frenchmen, Lionel
Terray, Maurice Davaille, Claude Gaudin, Dr. Pierre Souriac, Robert
Sennelier, and Maurice Martin, and the Swiss, Raymond Jenny, left
Jungay, ascended the Quebrada de Llangunuco and crossed to the Quebrada de Huaripampa, where they set up their Base Camp. They estab­
lished Camp 1 July 19 on the northeast glacier of Chacraraju, 20,000
feet, at 16,750 feet. Camp II was placed at 18,000 feet on the rockand ice-face July 24. The next day was spent fixing ropes on the next
650 feet, up to the col between the eastern and the (higher) western
summits. Bad weather forced them down again until July 30. On July
31 the climbers set out at 5 A.M. for the summit. Thanks to the fixed
ropes they reached the col at 7:30 A.M., but progress up the heavilycorniced ridge was slow, and by 1 P.M. they had reached only a shoulder,
below the summit, which was surmounted by a rock wall that proved
to be the most difficult part of the climb. They reached the summit at
5 P.M. Darkness overtook them on the descent and they did not reach
Camp II until 7 A.M. next morning.
The climbers traversed up the Quebrada de Huaripampa and crossed
a pass to the north face of Taulliraju, 19,128 feet, where they set up
Base Camp August 12. Camp I was pitched three days later, above
difficult slopes at 17,400 feet. After bad weather all the climbers ex­
cept Martin and Jenny climbed all day August 17, but were obliged
to bivouac at the base of a 120-foot cliff. Next day the climb continued
until they reached the summit at 2:30 P.M.