Tooba Shahid Dissertation - Indus Valley School of Art
Transcription
Tooba Shahid Dissertation - Indus Valley School of Art
Natural dyes, a cultural heritage or still being practiced commercially By Tooba shahid Indus Valley School of Art and Architecture 2013 I Natural dyes: a cultural heritage or still being practiced commercially. II Acknowledgement I would like to thank my family who supported me through, our faculty and graduate students for guidance. Especially I would like to thank Mr.Arshad Farooqui our External advisor, Mrs.Humaira Tareen and Gemma Sharpe our supervisor for their constant guida nce. III Abstract My dissertation is about natural dyes, I will be reasearching if there is a possibility of bringing natural dyes to commercial market or it should be left aside, just as a part of our cultural heritage. I will be looking into text that supports natural dyes and encourages sustaining and revival of textile crafts. IV Table of Contents Abstract .................................................................................................................................... iii Introduction ................................................................................................................................ 1 LITERATURE REVIEW .......................................................................................................... 4 RESEARCH METHODOLOGY ............................................................................................. 15 Findings.................................................................................................................................... 17 Analysis and Discussion .......................................................................................................... 22 Conclusion ............................................................................................................................... 27 Appendices ............................................................................................................................... 31 GALLERY ........................................................................................................................... 31 QUESTIONNAIRE .............................................................................................................. 37 INTERVIEW 1 ..................................................................................................................... 40 INTERVIEW 2 ..................................................................................................................... 43 INTERVIEW 3 ..................................................................................................................... 44 INTERVIEWS 4 .................................................................................................................. 46 INTERVIEW 5 ..................................................................................................................... 48 INTERVIEW 6 ..................................................................................................................... 50 BIBLIOGRAPGHY ............................................................................................................. 51 V Shahid-1 Introduction The textile industry of Pakistan plays a vital role in the economy of our country. It is one of the major industries contributing to the GDP of our country. The textiles industry of Pakistan has been successful in making an identifiable place worldwide, and appreciated globally. overwhelming impact on economy. Textile being largest industrial sector generates the 1 Textile industry in Pakistan is not just simply cotton yarns, woven fabric, apparel, home textiles etc. It also constitutes various crafts like embroidery, patch work, charpai, natural dyeing, chemical dyeing, weaving, bead work, mirror work, etc. Craft is, art 2 These crafts are one of the identities of our country, our culture, our tradition. Unfortunately due to genuine problems, to some extent lack of attention our crafts are losing their value. They are now becoming a cultural heritage, and being replaced through technology and other easier and money making short cuts, ignoring the value of skills of a craftsperson his ability, the identity and beauty of any particular craft done by the hands of any craftsperson. Over the last few years what I have observed is, thanks to a the successful efforts of designers, that textile crafts have been incorporated as one of the major supporting elements to our textile industry which mainly has helped our fashion industry in bringing diversification by adding value addition to apparel, by combining two crafts, reviving traditions and creating a stronger and recognizable identity of Pakistan throug h their designs. 1 2 http://w w w .textile.gov.pk/gop/index.php?q=aHR0cDovLzE5M i4xNjguNzAuM TM 2L21vdGkv http://dictionary.reference.com /brow se/crafts?s=b& path=/ Shahid-2 Yet we still have a lot of dying crafts, out of which natural dyes is one of those valuable and ecofriendly crafts which is not being carried out very commonly. I came across this topic after coming back from our trip to Bhitshah, we had gone there for one of our assignments on mud resist and natural dyes. After this trip I realized how beautiful these colors were how every color had its own identity and significance, but here around the city I observed that there are very few people who are even aware of the fact that natural dyes are still being practiced. I researched and found out a few local village families who have learnt the process of natural dyes from their ancestors and are still practicing it, commonly through mud resist, as their family business. Miss Noor Jehan Bilgirami one of the famous identifiable personality who brought the use of natural dyes to our local market is worthy of praise, but I feel that too is restricted to a certain class only. Therefore after a few surveys a nd reading through books I came across the fact that there are still few focus points that needs to be researched on. Now I have organized my research and will look into the genuine problems, practical issues, solutions, and find out if there is still hope of sustaining the craft and making it common in the market or will it remain as one of our cultural heritage. cover the scientific and technical aspects of the chemistry and physics of dyes, pigments and their intermediates. Emphasis is placed on the properties of the colouring matters themselves rather than on their applications or the system in which they may be 3 The natural dyes are replaced with chemical and synthesized dyes over the time because of the shortage of resources, such as plants, animals, roots etc. from which natural dyes are obtained, secondly they need more time and attention then the chemical dyes, thirdly chemical dyes are more cost effective, last but not the least the more colors are available and can be made from chemical dyes as compared to the limited colors of natural dyes. Yet all 3 http://w w w .journals.elsevier.com /dyes-and-pigm ents/ Shahid-3 issues being genuine, there can be an effort made to sustain the craft and I believe we should make an effort and make the use of natural dyes become common, spread awareness about its importance and value, and contribute in saving our craft, simultaneously our environment. Shahid-4 LITERATURE REVIEW (colour). Dyes are obtained from flowers,nuts, berries and other forms of vegetables and plants as well as from animal and mineral sources. These are known as natural dyes. The other class of Dyes are known as synthetic dyes are based on a particular type of chemical 4 Natural dyes are extraction from the beautiful nature from life and from surroundings, the source of natural dyes includes, insects, plants, roots, nuts, berries, flowers, animals and minerals. -friendly product and process had received significant appreciation all over the world; and the legislation and public enforcement in developed countries are known for this purpose. Indirectly, such enforcement had partly resulted in the growth and development of conventional textile proce ssing in developing countries, where low-waged work force and reduced environment control are prevalent. Consumers are now concerned about the green activities and choose products, which are non toxic and cause no harm to both the humans and the environment. This trend for eco-friendly products has been extended to textile and apparel products, particularly those products which 5 The above mentioned text has been extracted from an article by Dr.Noor Ahmed (Pakistani). In this article he talks about how people have started knowing about eco -friendly products, and ecofriendly environment. He talks about how people are being concerned regarding nontoxic products or anything harming the environment. 4 Dr. Noor Ahmed Memon, t ĂĂĂĂĂĂĂ ĂĂĂĂĂĂĂ Ă ĂĂĂĂĂ ĂĂĂ ĂĂĂĂĂĂĂĂĂ ĂĂĂĂĂĂ ĂĂĂĂ Ă ĂĂĂĂĂĂĂĂĂ ĂĂĂĂĂ ĂĂ ĂĂĂĂĂĂĂ ĂĂĂĂ ĂĂĂ ĂĂĂĂĂĂĂ , www.ptj.com.pk, (10/04/2013), http://w w w .ptj.com .pk/W eb-2010/0410/Dr.Noor.htm (19/06/2013) 5 Dr. Noor Ahmed Memon, , www.ptj.com.pk, (10/04/2013), http://w w w .ptj.com .pk/W eb-2010/04-10/Dr.Noor.htm [19/06/2013] Shahid-5 As far as my knowledge and as far as I have researched until now, and also observed particularly around me (Karachi) ,that people are still unaware an d uneducated towards the benefits of eco-friendly environment in fact people do not even know what ecofriendly environment is. I believe that the awareness regarding ecofriendly environment is restricted to certain class of people. This extract relates to my topic in the sense that if people would understand the need and importance of ecofriendly textiles, then surely they would understand how natural dyes contribute in the ecofriendly textiles Further Mr.Noor talks about: ancient process found in almost every culture around the globe. The Egyptians used red cotton, dyed with madder root, to mummify their Pharaohs and were able to keep the secrets of the dark dye color a secret for centuries. The Spanish became addicted to the pinks and reds made by cochineal after colonizing central and South America. And indigo has long been used in Japan and Africa from farmers to nobles. Natural dye became almost obsolete after the industrial revolution and later with the discovery of chemical and petroleum based dyes. Most textiles today are dyed chemically and can contain harmful substances such as lead, other heavy metals, and even arsenic. Naturally dyed fabrics, on the other hand, are completely biodegradable and non -toxic, if an organic substrate is being used. The natural dye process is environmentally sound. The water and energy used in the process is minimized, and the water run-off is clean and can be returned 6 I agree as to how Mr.Noor mentions above, regarding natural dyes being eco-friendly. The chemical dying is undoubtedly very harmful for the environment but then it is cost 6 Dr. Noor Ahmed Memon, , www.ptj.com.pk, (10/04/2013), http://w w w .ptj.com .pk/W eb-2010/04-10/Dr.Noor.htm [19/06/2013] Shahid-6 effective also. In situation where the industrialist deal in bulk, cost is a major factor for which they conveniently ignore the damage to the environment. This directly relates to the damage to the ozone layer. Like Mr.Noor mentioned that we see a deep connection of natural dyes in our history, that is through different ages more plants ,insects, wood were explored to extract the natural dyes for different purposes. These natural dyes were used through a certain process that was less harmful. After reading through the above mentioned text it added to my knowledge that the process of natural dyes involves less consumption of wa ter and energy. While on the other side it is well observed that there are disadvantages of chemical dyes effecting our environment, no matter it is cost effective, it involves a lot of destruction damage and has disadvantages at the end, and one of them is harm to marine life. and therefore these chemicals use a great amount of oxygen from the sea water in order to disintegrate. This as a result also harms the marine and aquatic life in many serious ways. The using of oxygen from the sea water leads to reduction in the amount of oxygen left for the 7 e chemical dyes but also a lot of other industries apart from textile industry are being ignorant to the fact that they are causing huge damage to the marine life. If our industry makes an effort and incorporate natural dyes commercially it can help pay an important role in ecofriendly textiles. At the end of the day in practical life money is what matters to these big industrialist and since chemical dyes are less time consuming, cost effective, color diversification is possible ,and easy to satisfy the market need, they ignore the damage they are causing to the environment. These industrialists are much aware of how 7 Shahid-7 valuable natural dyes are and it needs to be sustained commercially and not left unattended to t see any effort being made on large scale. initially made Azo dyes - Germany - was the first to impose the ban. The pesticides laden cotton is causing cancer and destroying the very eco-systems [ground water pollution] where cotton is grown.When babies suck on this type of cotton as babies often do, the chemicals in damage from all artificially dyed clothes and bed-sheets whose micro-fibres are inhaled every 8 South Asian Handlooms & This text directly relates to my topic in context to damage from certain dyes and benefits of certain dyes. It is understood due to natural devastation, loss of minerals, and loss of natural resources we are unable to take forward the craft of natural dyes commercially or practically it is not possible because of the limited availability of the plants, roots, animals, minerals from which natural dyes are extracted. Azo dye is one of the chemically processed dyes and we can practically relate to it being harmful for the consumer as well as beneficial for the producer. Since it is harmful to health, and is cancerous serious measures should be taken. common dye class (anthraquinones). They have fair to good fastness properties, but not so 8 Salman Minhas, South Asian Handlooms & Natural Dyes www.the-south-asian.com, (07/2006) , http://www.the-south-asian.com/jan2005/South_Asian_handlooms.htm, [19/06/2013] Shahid-8 good as the carbonyl and phthalocyanine classes. Their biggest advantage it their costeffectiveness, which is due to the processes involved in manufacture. The general formula for making an azo dye requires two organic compounds- a coupling component and a diazo component. Since these can be altered considerably, an enormous range of possible dyes are 9 There is a need of finding a mid-way to manage the cost effectiveness of these natural dyes as well as keeping in mind how destructive the chemicals dyes can be for the human life. No matter azo dyes is one of the easy way out, it is cost effective, and also being able to produce more variety of colours, at the end of the day it is injurious to health.After everyday life it is in a way socially affecting our lives. vegetable matter without any chemical process-ing. Increasing awareness of the environmental and health hazards associated with the synthesis, processing, and use of synthetic dyes has created a worldwide interest in tex-tiles dyed with natural dyes. During the last decade, the use of natural dyes has gained momentum due to the in-c r e a s e d d e m a n d f o r t h e s e d y e s b y t h e f o o d , p h a r m a c e u t i c a l , cosmetic as well as the textile coloration industry. T e x t i l e p r o c e s s i n g i n d u s t r y i s o n e o f t h e m a j o r e n v i r o n - mental polluters. In order to process a ton of textile, one m i g h t have to use as m u c h a s 2 3 0 t o 2 7 0 t o n s o f w a t e r . T h e effluent generated by this much water would pollute the environment as it may contain a heavy load of chemicals u s e d d u r i n g t e x t i l e p r o c e s s i n g . T h e r e a r e t w o m a i n w a y s t o limit the 9 Nam e unknow n, w w w .chm .bris.ac.uk, (2010), http://w w w .chm .bris.ac.uk/w ebprojects2002/price/azo.htm , [20/06/2013] Shahid-9 environmental impact of textile processing. One is to construct sufficiently large and highly effective effluent treatment plants, and the other way is to make use of dyes and chemicals that are environment friendly.Natural dyes are mostly eco- friendly, biodegradable,l e s s t o x i c , a n d l e s s a l l e r g e n i c a s c o m p a r e d t o s y n t h e t i c 10 The above text again mentions that no matter how difficult it gets bu t over the time serious efforts have to be made to bring awareness of natural dyes in order to help keeping a use of the natural dyes is still very limited due to non-availability of standard shade cards and and are required to be used in conjunction with mordents. A mordant, usually a metallic salt, is regarded as a chemic 11 This article again talks about different dyes and eco friendly environment. In this article as a whole the focus is on natural dye from Eucalyptus. After reading through this article and a few other related texts, I believe that there is a need of proper attention towards eco-friendly environment through focusing on awareness for sustaining different crafts that contribute to eco-friendly textiles out of which natural dyes and disadvantages of chemically processed dyes need to be looked upon. 10 S. Ali1, N. Nisar, Department of Chemistry, University of Agriculture, Faisalabad, Pakistan T. Hussain, Department of Textile Chemistry, National Textile University, Faisalabad, Pakistan Dyeing properties of natural dyes extractedfrom eucalyptus http://w w w .academ ia.edu/1932776/Dyeing_properties_of_natural_dyes_extracted_from _eucalypt us [20/06/13] 11 T. Hussain, Department of Textile Chemistry, National Textile University, Faisalabad, Pakistan Dyeing properties of natural dyes extractedfrom eucalyptus http://w w w .academ ia.edu/1932776/Dyeing_properties_of_natural_dyes_extracted_from _eucalypt us [20/06/13] Shahid-10 f the major concerns apart from just being connected to eco-friendly environment this issue further leads to economical issue as well. It creates a bad image for the dyeing units in Pakistan. The wastes produced by these dyeing units also have their influe nce on the social and economic part of our country. Most of the companies abroad to whom these dyed products are being exported, are becoming more and more specific and concious about healthy environment of the producing country, from whom they import. Wit h such environmentally friendly issues becoming particularly important globally, the social concerns about conservational ethics need to be addressed by local dyeing sectors. Only then they will be able to survive amongst the international pressure and competition. Many a time, importers from USA send their teams to the dyeing units in Karachi to check on work 12 As I read through a few articles and books, eco-friendly environments is becoming topic of discussion. Economic pressure is also one of the factors that can be maintained through ecofriendly (International Standards Organization), or EMS (Environmental Management System) these are certifying bodies that certify a certain company for maintaining the standard quality and environmental awareness. A few buyers dealing with these dyeing companies or units specify their environmental conditions in their contract and pay special attention to these agreements throughout the deal. Since there is no serious treatment of waste water from the dyeing units of Karachi, the companies often lose their business due to such issues not being dealt with. This results in reduction in export from the textile industry, which is a major contributor to the GDP of Pakistan. When individual dyeing units not deal with environmental measures, not only they directly affect the economy of Pakistan, but also aff ect the employment level. 12 (M r.Iftikhar Bazm i,Q uality M anagem ent Reporter,ISO.) Shahid-11 Workers working in an unhealthy environment are prone to illness, and health issues, which 13 The textile industries need to have an urge to look into these issue and maintain balance in order to stabilize the environmental damage that has been going on from not just the textile industry whose responsible, but it can look over issues like chemical dyes etc. to maintain eco-friendly environment playing a responsible and an important role in the society. refineries, and pipelines get older, the danger of accidents increases, but by combining strong community organizations with a tool for collecting samples of toxic pollution, the people of Durban have made themselves safer. They have shown the rest of their country and the world that people can make industry and government take responsibility for their environmenta l 14 After reading through text from a dissertation by an Indus valley student (2009) I have observed how important it is for our industry to maintain a standard in terms eco -friendly environment. Our textile industry ,in particular our dying units need to pay attention and look into alternates in terms of what kind of dyes should be commercially used, and which dyes should not be used. of organic chemistry in Europe, industrialized countries generally adopted synthetic dyes and pigments extracted from fossil resources, coal-tar and oil. Cheap and easy to apply, they caused a cultural revolution. Mass synthetic colouring of everyday plastics, textiles, pain ts, cosmetics and food has now led people all over the world to take colours for granted. In the 13 14 Shahid-12 new era of synthetic colorants, research into natural dyes largely changed focus, shifting from economic issues to historical, archaeological and heritage aspe cts, until, recently, the situation changed with the global growing awareness of the threats on environment and of the 15 The above mentioned text relates to, actually when and why did the revolution occur, and people started shifting from natural dyes to chemical dyes, not only in terms of textiles, but also in use of dyes in everyday life. to save it from extinction. Ms Javed said that keeping in view the importance of the workshop, she was documenting it through videos and prints. Mr Hussain said that apparel on sale in the market had synthetic dyeing that led to skin cancer. He said Europe was very cautious about synthetic dyeing and if Pakistan started producing more naturally-dyed 16 It felt great to know that the art institutes and their faculty are well aware of the importance of sustaining a dying craft, the thought of sustaining the craft is not just survival of any craft, but to understand its importance and look into its beneficial aspects. We as students of IVSA are made to go through courses where we work towards the sustainable design measures, that can help revive a dying craft, the experience has been great. 15 DOMINIQUE CARDON NATURAL DYES,OUR GLOBAL HERITAGE OF COLOURS (2010), http://digitalcom m ons.unl.edu/cgi/view content.cgi?article=1011& context=tsaconf ,[20/06/2013] www.digitalcom m ons.unl.edu, 16 w w w .dailytim es.com .pk,( (Wednesday, October 20, 2004), http://www.dailytimes.com.pk/default.asp?page=story_20-10- 2004_pg7_19, [20/06/2013] Shahid-13 sounds, running water, shady trees, and many natural and man -made contrivances to delight the heart. Birds, animals and humans enjoyed this garden and its delights. In this paradise lived a colony of peacocks, and they too both enjoyed and added to the beauties and joys of the garden, eating, dancing, and calling to each other with happiness. One day, the king who owned the garden, on a whim, ordered that one of the peacocks be entirely sewn up in a leather sack, with only a small channel through which a few grains of coarse meal should be fed, barely enough to keep the bird alive. This was done, and as time passed the peacock forgot the beauties of the garden, the calls of its mates, the scent of the flowers, the joy of dance and the taste of good and varied food. The dirty and constraining leather sack became its world. It forgot its own beauty and thought of itself as a worthless and ugl y fellow, capable of nothing but of swallowing the meagre grains of meal which were its only diet. What's more, it recreated in its constrained imagination the entire world in the image of the leather sack, and of all other creatures as similarly encumbered and constrained. In its dark and blinded world terror and despair loomed large. Much of our development planning starts from inside the leather sack, recasting a world of peace, plenty and harmony in our blinkered imaginations into a world of terror an d despair, and planning for 'survival' strategies for that dark existence. The more we do so, the more despair and terror we generate, the greater the impetus towards self -fulfilling prophecies of doom. Then destruction of nature, of human values evolved o ver millenia, of humanity itself, becomes consequences within the realm of possibility. But can we turn away from this hope- 17 17 A future vision for natural dyeing in India[summary]w w w .ced.org.in, http://ced.org.in/docs/otherdocs/A_future_vision_for_natural_dyeing_U zram m a.doc Shahid-14 It is now in our hands to understand and analyse the problems, find solutio n, not blindly follow the money making track, rather look into every aspect of using synthetic dyes commercially and ignoring the importance of natural dyes leaving them behind as a cultural heritage. The above text narrates a small story from which an aim is derived, it relates to the need of awakening the textile industry and build ourselves a better future. Shahid-15 RESEARCH METHODOLOGY In this chapter of my dissertation I have organized as to how will I take my research forward incorporating different methods of research, that will help me sort the questions and confusions I have regarding my topic and lead to a conclusion, I will organize and gather primary and secondary research relevant to my topic. I will gather primary research through interviews from existing local dyers who are not using natural dyes but only synthetic dyes, dyers who are only focused on using natural dyes, designer who has worked with natural dyes, someone who does not have textile degree yet runs a pret wear business. I have planned to conduct a survey through questionnaire amongst the students of art schools and business schools, since they can relate more to the knowledge I am looking for my topic then any general girl or women in market, because these students at this time of life start being more fashion oriented and try to set a standard of fashion or trend that they follow, yet I will try getting my questions answered by few professional women . I have also thought of interviewing great personalities who have been w orking with natural dyes like the well-known and most famous amongst us Noor Jahan Bilgirami, once my interviews and surveys are done, at the end I would like to have a discussion with miss Noor Jehan Bilgirami and share as to what I would conclude with the gathered information ,and then ask for her experienced and valued remarks on my research and thoughts. I will also interview qualified people in textiles (unidentified designers) who are new to market, in order to have information to compare in regard to what is market demanding today in terms of dyes and what do experienced textile designers have to say about the over powering of chemical and processed dyes over natural dyes. For further research I have planned to look through more books related to dyein g process and also newspaper articles that I have read through and also information from previous Shahid-16 dissertations referred by a few Indus graduates has also been helpful to some extent. I have been spending time in the library in order to initially gain know ledge about what natural dyes and synthetic dyes are all about. I have previously read through a few articles online that relate to my topic in context to how harmful these chemical dyes are and also regarding the cost effectiveness of chemical dyes. I will be looking for similar articles that relate to my topic, like at the moment I am reading through a few books regarding the benefits of natural dyes and how valuable they are, I am trying to look for material through previous dissertations and also documentaries on ancient textile, and craft. I have read through a few blogs which might not be authentic but as a general person`s thinking I can relate it with my topic. Shahid-17 Findings 1. What is your age? 18 to 24 77.8% 25 to 34 22.2% 100.00% 80.00% 77.80% 60.00% 40.00% 22.20% 20.00% 0.00% 18-24 2. What is your occupation? Art student 81.7% Business student 7.2% businessmen/women 7.4% Designer 3.7% 25-34 Shahid-18 90.00% 80.00% 70.00% 60.00% 50.00% 40.00% 30.00% 20.00% 10.00% 0.00% 81.70% Art Student 7.20% 7.40% Business Student Business M en/W om an 3.70% Designer 3. Do you have any interest or knowledge in textiles? Yes 88.7% No 11.1% 100.00% 90.00% 88.70% 80.00% 70.00% 60.00% 50.00% 40.00% 30.00% 20.00% 11.10% 10.00% 0.00% Yes 4. Do you know about natural dyes? Yes 87.6% No Shahid-19 No 12.4% 100.00% 90.00% 87.60% 80.00% 70.00% 60.00% 50.00% 40.00% 30.00% 20.00% 12.40% 10.00% 0.00% Yes No 5. How often do you use or purchase fabric dyed in natural dyes? Once a week 3.8% Once in two weeks 3.6% Once in a month 19.2% Once in three months 73.3% Shahid-20 500.00% 4.5 450.00% 400.00% 350.00% 300.00% 250.00% 200.00% 150.00% 100.00% 50.00% 3.80% 3.60% Once A W eek Once A Tw o W eek 19.20% 0.00% Once In A M onth Once In Three M onths 6. Do you think natural dyes are eco-friendly, and should be preferred instead of chemical dyes? Yes 85.2% No 14.8% 100.00% 85.20% 80.00% 60.00% 40.00% 14.80% 20.00% 0.00% Yes No 7. Did you know that today, most of the time the natural dyes are mixed with chemical dies in order to have brighter colours and to make the product cost effective? Shahid-21 Yes 57.7% No 42.3% 70.00% 60.00% 57.70% 50.00% 42.30% 40.00% 30.00% 20.00% 10.00% 0.00% Yes No 8. Would you prefer naturally died fabric over chemical dyed fabric knowing it will cost more? Yes 40.7% No 59.3% 70.00% 60.00% 50.00% 59.30% 40.70% 40.00% 30.00% 20.00% 10.00% 0.00% Yes No 9. Do you think cost effectiveness is strong enough justification to use chemical and processed dyes instead of natural dyes? Yes 48.4% No 51.6% Shahid-22 51.60% 52.00% 51.00% 50.00% 49.00% 48.40% 48.00% 47.00% 46.00% Yes No 10. Briefly explain, did few of the above mentioned questions help you get convinced if natural dyes should be commercially used and not ignored leaving it aside as a cultural heritage. 11. What measures could help sustain natural dyes against chemically processed dyes in our textile units. Analysis and Discussion I had organised my research into sections, where I interviewed local dyers, natural dyers, designer, a lady who runs online business of pret wear, interviewed a designer who designs Shahid-23 clothes for men. I also gathered information through questionnaires from young generation, since I was not sure of a few questions I had in mind. I had conducted a survey amongst students from Indus Valley and also girls from business schools also a few professional working women (it included young g irls as well as few ladies upto the age of 32).I even tried to get it filled from a few male students but they refused, saying they are not interested in textiles therefore they barely have knowledge of these branches of textiles, yet managed a few male family members who were convinced and helped me by filling the questionnaire. According to the survey 77.8% were girls while only 22.2% were woman out of which 81.7% were Art student, 7.2% were Business student, 7.4% were businessmen/women while Designers we re 3.7%. 88.7% of the people were those who had knowledge about textiles while the 11.3% were unaware of lot things like crafts, trends and fashion, they were not interested in textiles. Similarly most of them knew what natural dyes are while a lot of them did not, a lot of people natural dyes are, 87.6% knew about it while 12.4% did not have any knowledge about what natural dyes were. Since majority people who filled my questionnaire did have an art background, which I feel guided them in context to awareness regarding natural dyes, while the rest were quite blank because of which people are also unaware of the fact that natural dyes are eco-friendly. Through one of my questions from the survey I found out that on an average people buy naturally died fabric once in 3 months (73.3%). I think it is so because while interviewing a local dyer I connected to the survey result while he said wakai koshish bhi nhain kiya hai natural dye k baray main maloom karne ya seekhne ko kyun Shahid-24 18 so even in market not many dyers have facilities for natural dying, besides this they are not even interested in knowing or gaining more knowledge since they believe if they have sufficient earnings they do not need to make the effort. I went through a dissertation related to Natural dyes and through interviews it was found that a lot of times a fe w natural coloured dyes are chemically processed to make them more marketable and cost effective, even baba Allah dino mentioned beta daikho kuch cheezein waqt k sath sath aur tajurby se bataun k ye jo dyer sheron me bhaithe hain na ye inke bas ki baat nahi kyun k wo unke sath pushtian bhi natural dye pe lagain tou bhi nahi kama sakte iski kuch wajoohat hain hum khud kuch had taq natural dye karte hain magar kuch cheezon me hum bhi chemical dye lagatay hain aur lagana parta hai bohat se natural dyes main bhi milawat karni parti kyun A1 quality 19 After the results from the survey I conducted, it was observed that knowledgeable people were also unaware of the fact that today, most of the time the natural dyes are mixed with chemical dies in order to have brighter colours and to make the product cost effective, just half of the people knowing about natural dyes were aware of the fact. The survey further explained that 85% people did agree that natural dyes were eco-friendly but because they would cost more they would not prefer it over chemical dyes only 40% agreed on buying naturally dyed products, ignoring the cost issue (I felt like going upto these 40% and salute them for a mature and responsible thought.) The survey I conducted through questionaires, concludes and reflects, that people are unaware of the fact that there is something called natural dyes or there something apart from chemical dyes. There is a certain class who has knowledge, apart from having knowledge 18 st H anif ,a local dyer, interview ed on 21 m arch 2013 (the interview w as conducted in person and w as noted in w riting) 19 th Baba Allah Dino interview ed in Bhitshah on 9 August 2012 (the interview w as conducted in person and w as noted in w riting) Shahid-25 nobody practically accepts it, to be part of their daily life. It is observed through the survey people are act selfish and demand easy ways, pressurizing our local dyers indirectly. After conducting the survey and the interview from two local dyers I believe that the effort introducing natural dyes since they are already earning sufficient amount. One of the baji agar hum khud koshish bhi karain natural dye introduce karana tau ye jo madam haina ye hum se kabhi nahin khareedingi un bari dukano ka jin ka naam hai in while this eld gaon main kuwain(well) thay jin main jado(roots) se rang banatay thay pyaz(onion) se,chalio se aur kai cheezo se banataya thay magar wo maal mere hisab se kuj chand grahako(customers) k liye order par tayar hota tha , kyun k aam taur pe kuwain soookhay 20 This statement of his clearly shows that these people who have the knowledge are easily set back with the fact no matter how good natural dyes result they prefer chemical dyes because it runs faster in the market. It is now a fact that money is what matters, citizens are forgetting their role and responsibility, and none are willing to sacrifice, be it the producer, buyer, seller, or the consumer. While I interviewed a designer who was fresh textile graduate from AIFD and was appreciation, she told me that `although she had not done deep research on natural dyes ,yet was aware of the fact how chemically processed dyes were hazardous for health and 20 Ghuffran a local dyer , interview ed on 21 st m arch 2013, (the interview w as conducted in person and w as noted in w riting) Shahid-26 in hand embroidery at her warehouse, it was meant to help them improve their skills, she did so by inviting skilled and famous designers who incorporate and encourage hand embroidery After our conversation ended she added that she has had designs where she has used naturally dyed fabric and has also used ajrak directly (naturally died chadd ar, a tradition of Sindh) for making waist coats for women, and now was wanting to do a small workhop for these natural dyers to give them exposure by introducing them to a platform where she would invite various designers. These designers will then get in direct contact and help the natural 21 idea of using naturally dyed fabric , and proposed him a rough budget and profit margin, I also took a sample of fabric, to which he was very much convinced and is willing to invest and give it a try. He would want to meet one of the natural dyers and go ahead with a passion that lead me so far and made me start this business. It was a great experience learning and knowing about naturally dyed fabric. I love the colour also, they are very sophisticated a 22 Further I went to a local designer Asma, who has no textile background but runs apparel and accessories exhibitions every 3 months and sells her products online also. I asked her if she knew about natural dyes, she told me she did have an idea, since she keeps hearing about it, 21 st june 2013 (the interview w as conducted on call and w as noted in w riting) 22 Usm an ,designer and ow ner at ZUW AAS ,interview ed on 1 st june 2013 (the interview w as conducted in person and w as noted in w riting) Shahid-27 and she has always had love for the fabric since she had seen a few online , and was desperately wanting to experience the use of the fabric. After my interview she called me and told me to bring the naturally dyed and block printed fabric I had in my wardrobe to her office, on reaching her office, she told me that she wants to get in touch with one of the natural dyers who incorporate mud resist process along with natural dyes. S really glad u came to me for the interview it was nice hearing so much about natural dyes, since it had been more than a month I was trying to get hold of a middle person who could help me get through these mud resist craftsperson, you are 23 After the two meeting with the two designers I felt how small was the task, and I realised I did contribute and tried to sustain the craft ,although I did not make much effort I shared my piece of knowledge with them , and their mature thoughts clicked rig ht then. All these famous designers can promise themselves to make one whole collection with naturally to a better level. Conclusion I researched on how natural dyes were practically used in olden days and with the invention of synthetic dyes over the time they have become a cultural heritage and a dying 23 Asm a designer, pret w ear for w om en, interview ed on 10 th April 2013 (the interview w as conducted in person and w as noted in w riting) Shahid-28 craft. In the beginning when I started my research I partially agreed to the fact that the reason of natural dyes being a dying craft is because of the shortage of natural resources, time consumption cost issues, but as I read further I realised that no matter what the reasons might lly. Keeping in view all the problems faced, economically, increasing competition, customer demand we also need to focus on global warming, health issues, eco-friendly textiles, hazardous wastes, pollution and contribute well to our society. Every citizen is responsible for making a healthier, happier, secure, balanced and a beautiful future for the country. No matter he/she is in textiles sector, businessperson, textile designer, architect or any professional life or a housewife, be it a mother, father, son, daughter, or a husband they have a vital role to the society through their acts and thoughts. After researching through blogs, discussion, interviews, surreys etc., I feel that genuinely serious effort needs to be made, though it will take a lot of time dyes to daily life, we can always increase its use by spreading awareness about what natural dyes are and the benefits of natural dyes. We can at least raise the bar up to a percentage of about 40% natural and 60% chemical dyes. Like mentioned by baba Allah dino rang log pasand kartay hain, ladkio ko bhi is k shokh shokh rang chahiye hotay hain ,is k liye hum koshish karae hain ,indigo aur haldi se hum ne haray rang ki bhi kismain nikal li hain, isi tarha keeno wala tez rang bhi kareeban a jata hai , hum apni koshish karae hein logon ki pasand k mutabik cheez tayyar karne ki agay aap logo k haath main hai k pasand ,daughter we are observing now what is the demand,people want variety in colours,specially girls want bright colours,for which we are trying, we make shades of Shahid-29 green with indigo and turmeric,similarly we have tried making a nice orange,we are trying to make things as per the demand,rest is on you people to like and appreciate.) 24 After all my primary and secondary research I would conclude my dissertation with a very convinced idea that natural dyes have now become part of our cultural heritage due to valid reasoning and all the ups and downs. It is true that there is not much market genuinely, there is no point maintaining a craft which is hard to sustain, since all the basic raw material to go ahead with, like the roots, plants, animals, minerals etc are fi nishing due to constant natural devastation we have to outsource the raw material most of the time. On the other hand the dyers are right about not spending time trying to learn and then spend years to get hold of a market, who would actually appreciate or look forward to natural dyes, but then again if people would know that using natural dyes is healthier, and good for the environment, if people understand the value of cultural heritage being useful, the dyers will also be convinced and readily want to make an effort introducing natural dyes along with the processed dyes. No doubt there are numerous draw backs that hinder in the process, out of which cost time and lack of raw material are the main highlights as to why dyers are not inclined towards making an effort and bring about a market for natural dyes. Again there is a very significant identity to this craft which is again by far all the reasons, a very valuable and an ecofriendly craft it will always be beneficial in terms of health. While there are a few people like baba Allah dino from bhit shah, baba Nathu Raam in Mithi, Tharparkar, baba Abdullah Dada from Mathiari,Sindh and a few more around mostly in interior Sindh who are willing to maintain the craft and keep going with the small market they have, we can atleast help them by geting in touch with international market ,them being open to different markets will help them get better exposure. Efforts by the famous artist Miss.Noor Jehan bilgirami have been well 24 th Baba A llah Dino interview ed in Bhitshah on 9 August 2012 (the interview w as conducted in person and w as noted in w riting) Shahid-30 observed by most of us, through Koel ,her exhibition, books, her designed products are well recognized as naturally died products. Similarly if Miss.Noor Jehan Bilgirami can be the pioneer of bringing natural dyes to public observation we all can also contribute and take her efforts forward through different forums. Other designers should also get involved and sustain the craft by making it recognizable to every class, since these designers have their own forum they can bring about the change and spread awareness regarding the beauty of natural dyes. I strongly believe that natural dyes cannot be left aside as cultural heritage, and need to be practiced commercially. It will take a lot of time, but we need to bring the few craftsperson, who are still alive, who know the process of natural dyes and are skilled in practicing natural dyes to a level where they are open to every class of people, we will have to help them transfer their skills to the younger craftsperson, help them get motivated. An effort is needed to bring the natural dyers in competition with the local dyers so as to make the local dyers also realize the value of sustaining a dying craft. Shahid-31 Appendices GALLERY One of the process of indigo dyeing in Bhit Shah. Shahid-32 Shahid-33 25 26 25 Self-taken at Bhit Shah on 9 th 26 th Self-taken at Bhit Shah on 9 august 2012. O ne of the products(curtains) designed and dyed by baba Allah dino`s team at Bhit Shah. Shahid-34 Following is some of the work produced by the students(Design, NCA, Pakistan, Textile Design) 27 27 Design, NCA, Pakistan, Textile Design (12/30/2009)http://salmanafzal.typepad.com/blog/page/7/ [20/06/2013] Block printed Collection Shahid-35 Natural dyeing workshops Sabiha, our visting textile designer from Pakistan has been busy preparing for her natural dye workshops here at Chelsea. Sabiha brought with her some natural dye stuffs including tumeric and pomegrante and she has been showing students how to dye yarn and fabric using this age-old technique. The students were shown how to prepare the dye stuffs, using a mordent and how to dye the sample pieces with a consistent coverage. Several of our MA textile students have been investigating natural dye techniques for the last 6 months and they attended this workshop to extend their knowledge. It will be interesting to see how they integrate this into their work which will be shown at their preview show this Thursday 27th May at Millbank, and continues Friday 10am - 8pm and Saturday 10am 28 28 Natural dyeing workshops textilesenvironmentdesign.blogspot.com (05/2010), http://textilesenvironmentdesign.blogspot.com/2010/05/natural-dyeingworkshops.html [20/06/2013] Shahid-36 29 29 Natural dyeing workshops textilesenvironmentdesign.blogspot.com (05/2010), http://textilesenvironmentdesign.blogspot.com/2010/05/natural-dyeingworkshops.html [20/06/2013] Shahid-37 QUESTIONNAIRE 1. What is your age? 18 to 24 25 to 34 2. What is your occupation? Art Student Business Student Shahid-38 businessmen/women Designer 3. Do you have any interest or knowledge in textiles? Yes No 4. Do you know about natural dyes? Yes No 5. How often do you use or purchase fabric dyed in natural dyes? Once a week Once in two weeks Once in a month Once in three months 6. Do you think natural dyes are eco-friendly, and should be preferred instead of chemical dyes? Yes No 7. Did you know that today, most of the time the natural dyes are mixed with chemical dies in order to have brighter colours and to make the product cost effective? Yes No 8. Would you prefer naturally died fabric over chemical dyed fabric knowing it will cost more? Yes No 9. Do you think cost effectiveness is strong enough justification to use chemical and Shahid-39 processed dyes instead of natural dyes? Yes No 10. Briefly explain, did few of the above mentioned questions help you get convinced if natural dyes should be commercially used and not ignored leaving it aside as a cultural heritage. 11. What measures could help sustain natural dyes against chemically processed dyes in our textile units. Shahid-40 INTERVIEW 1 Natural dyer Interviewed in Bhit Shah Interviewed on 9th august 2012 interviewed Baba Allah Dino Q1. Ap ka naam kya hai? Ans. Allah Dino Q2. App kab se is kaam main hain? Ans. Beta ankh khuli thee tab se sab kam daikh rahe hain bachpan me hee seekha tha aur tabse is ka karobar le k agay badh gaya. Q3. Ap apne is karobar sekhush hain? Ans. Bohat khush hun, Allah ka diya bohat hai, asal kaam toumere bache hee karte hain. Q4. Ap ne is kaam main waqt k sath sath koi taraqi hasil ki? Ans.Han bilkul phele shuru me ass pass k logon ko baichte thay phir sher le jana shuru kyauske baad Allah bhala karay Ala darje ki tanzeemon ka humain angraizon k beech dawat per bulaya hamara kam angrezon ko dikhaya, ordermile, ek baar kuch austrailwi (he meant australians) mehman le ker kuch tijarti log aye unhun ne humIn sheher bulaya apnay baqi austrailwi saathiyon se milwaya hum se hamari khanai suni, film banai, aur humaray taiyar kiye huay peice exhibition pe le gae aur phir ek baar wohi austrailwi sahab dobara se Shahid-41 humaray pas bhit shah ae aur apni zaban me kuch keh kar mera hath choom lia unke sath maujood logo se mainay poocha tou unhun ne bataya k wou us insaan k hath choomna chahtay hain jis ne is fun ko itni maharat se samhal kar hum taq pohanchaya. Q5. Kya ap ko lagta hai k waqt k sath sath kuj behtari ho sakti hai? Ans. Ho kya sakti hai beta mujhe behtari mehsus hoti hai, ye ap logon ki di hui izzat, mehnT ki waja se hee bum naye naye designo ko aur rangon ko kamiyab karte hain, shukriya hai khas apki shenaz madam ka jo ap bachon me is sabki ehmiat ko layee hain aur iski koshisho ko salam bai jo bachay aye hamaray pass, hum ko kuch na kuch madad de gaye. Q6.apko lagta hai k chemical dyes k muqablay asakta hain natural dyes? Nahi beta daikho kuch cheezein waqt k sath sath aur tajurby se bataun k ye jo dyer sheron me bhaithe hain na ye inke bas ki baat nahi kyun k wo unke sath pushtian bhi natural dye pe lagain tou bhi nahi kama sakte iski kuch wajoohat hain hum khud kuch had taq natural dye karte hain magar kuch cheezon me hum bhi chemical dye lagatay hain aur lagana parta hai bohat se natural dyes main bhi milawat karni parti kyun A1 quality mehgengi parti hai humain tou kuj rango k liye chemical dye milatay hain Q7. Ap koi koshish karae hein apni taraf se, design ya rango main k ziada bikay apka natural dyed block printed kapda. beta ab tau hum dekh rahay haina k kya kya rang log pasand kartay hain, ladkio ko bhi is k shokh shokh rang chahiye hotay hain ,is k liye hum koshish karae hain ,indigo aur haldi se hum ne haray rang ki bhi kismain nikal li hain, isi tarha keeno wala tez rang bhi kareeban a jata hai , hum apni koshish karae hein logon ki pasand k mutabik cheez tayyar karne ki agay aap logo k haath main hai k pasand kro ya nahn Shahid-42 Baba to me, Beta tumhari koshishain zaya na janay dena, kabhi mayus na hona, har kaam main waqt lagta hai aur ye waqt hai aur ye tou khasa mushkil masla utha liya hau, magar abhi bhi Allab k shukar se gher k choolay chalre hain. Shahid-43 INTERVIEW 2 Natural dyer Abdullah dada (Mathiari) Interviwed at IVSA Interviwed on 10th april 2013 Q.1 baba apka naam kya hai? Abdullah dada mera naam hai. Q2. Ap kitnay arsay se natural dyes k saath kaam karae hein? yehi koi samjho beta jab hosh sambhala hai tau yehi dekha aur seeekha hai, yad nahn. Q3. Ap k ghar ka har fard is business main hai? (smiles at business) han business tau apna mera hai 2 baitay meri madad kartay hein aur baki 3 betay apnay aur aur naukarian krtay hein. Q4. Ap dyes kahan se laitay hain? hum ab tau yahn se sasta khareed laitay hain hain asal rang tha ali zarin k jo india se ata tha sab se acha, aur indigo jo k ata tha Germany aur india se. Q5. Ap IVSA k ilawa kisi school university gae hain? aray beta mera tau ana jana kab se laga hi hua hai jab madam Noor Jehan Bilgirami ne kaam shuru kiya tha tau wo lai thi mjhe unke karigaro ko kam maine sikhaya hai aur tab se indus valley ana jana shuru hua hai , is k ilawa TIP, AIFD , KU wagaira bhi gaya hun main. Q6. Ap k hisab se sab se ziada market kahan hai filhal natural dyes ki ? Lahore, Karachi main natural ki bht demand hai aur Hyderabad main bhi hai par wahan log chemical walay rang ziada mangtay hain. Shahid-44 INTERVIEW 3 Natural dyer interviewed Naathu Raam Interviewed in Mithi,Tharparkar Interviewed on 10 th april 2013 Q1. Name? Ans. Naathu ram. Q2. Baba apko kitne saal hogaye ye kam karte huye? Ans. Yehikoi samjho 30-35 saal Q3. Kya ap kabhi mithi se bahar gaye hain? Ans. Nahi yahan se nikalne ka kabhi zaroorat nahi mehsoos hui ye ati hain ab tou order de kar jaati hain, thardeep se aati hain, khush rahay ye pyaari bachiyan kyun k ab tou hum khud akhri sanson k kareeb hain beta mehbat karta hai tum kaun le jaye ka sab kuj kahun aur koi sahara bhi nahi Q4. Ap kabhi khuwahish nahi hui k shahar le k jain apna kam? Ans.hoti thee aurik adh dafa lekar gaye the magar kharcha pooraa nahi hota tha yahn ki bikriis khushrahay hain hamesha Q5. Ap k han chemical dye k block print me bhi achi variety hai. Shahid-45 Ans. Han ye bachiyan le jati haina sheher bechny ko tou yaehi rangeen taiz rang walay bhi khas lejati hain inki office se jab order atay hain tou us main chemical walay bhi shamik hotay hain. Baba to me, Ek daraakhat (tree) tha hamaray bachpan main hum wahan khela karte the us k neechay hamaray baapu ye keh kar daratay the k wahan na jaya karo wahan saya hai wakat k saTh baday huye toumaloom chala k koi saya nahi tha wahN jaI botiyan ugti thee jo kar k natural dye main istemal karte hain tab pata padi asal baat. Q6. Ap ko natural dyes k kuj mustaqbil nazar ata hai? Ans. Ye kuch dinonki baat hai log janingay nahi fark k konsa natural hai aur konsa chemical kyun k ab natural dye bhi natural nahi rahe Shahid-46 INTERVIEWS 4 Designer for men`s wear ZUWAAS interviewed Usman Rizwi Interviewed in ZUWAAS design house Interviewed on 29 thmay 2013 Q1. Do u have a design degree? no Q2. How did u came across the idea of starting a men`s pret wear? Well from early teenage I was one of those who would google trends and fashions follow them and be smart wellme to ZUWAAS. Q3. Is it a partnership? Q4. Did u know what natural dyes are? No, I only know that dyes exist and s clue. Q5. Since earlier on email I spoke to you that I wanted to interview you regarding natural dyes for my dissertation, would you want me to share my word document on your email. Yes sure, why not ,I think it would be of great help to me. Second Meeting on: 1st june 2013 Q. I sent you a proposal regarding natural dyed fabric products, do you find it practical? Yes since I went through your research and proposal, I feel there is always room for Shahid-47 experiments, in fact healthy experiments. Q. Do you think we can take this project forward, through ZUWAAS? Yes, sure, it was a great experience learning and knowing about naturally dyed fabric. I love the colour also, they are very sophisticated and has a slightly brighter side of colour range also, I surely would like to give it a chance, and would want to meat one the teams of natural dyers whom you know. Shahid-48 INTERVIEW 5 Women`s pret wear designer Asma Interviwed at Asma`s office Interviwed on 10th April 2013 Q1. Do u have a design degree? No Q2. How did u came across the idea of starting a women`s pret wear? I have always been a shopaholic with time learnt to do cheaper shopping, learnt to make clothes and get them stitched with different cuts and style, meanwhile got married ,husband`s appreciation and encouragement motivated me to start up a small home based plan, he gave me all the needed resources and with time and experience I am stepping few steps forward alhamdulilah,initially I use to exhibit once in 5 or 6 months ,but now I have gotten the hang over it things run smoothly ,no I exhibit once in 3 months, its bin 4 and a half years now with experience and time every day I am learning about new textile related information Q3. Is it a partnership? No, I manage it all by myself. Q4. Did u know what natural dyes are? I had always heard about it but never had the chance to learn a lot about it Q5. Since earlier on email I spoke to you that I wanted to interview you regarding natural dyes for my dissertation, would you want me to share my word document on your email. Shahid-49 Yes Please I would love to go through the text. At the end she thanked in good words, natural dyes, since it had been more than a month I was trying to get hold of a middle person who could help me get through these mud resist craftsperson, you are more of a blessing in Shahid-50 INTERVIEW 6 Designer at Basanti Anum Khalid Interviwed on call Interviwed on 1 st june Q1. Being a textile graduate do you know what natural dyes are? Yes, I do Q2 do u think there is market for natural dyes? She explained, her warehouse, it was meant to help them improve their skills, she did so by inviting skilled After our conversation ended she added that she has had designs where she has used naturally dyed fabric and has also used ajrak directly (naturally died chaddar, a tradition of Sindh) for making waist coats for women, and now was wanting to do a small workhop for these natural dyers to give them exposure by introducing them to a p latform where she would invite various designers. These designers will then get in direct contact and help the natural She then asked me if would want to be part of the project. Q3. Have you used naturally dyed fabric? Yes my entire thesis was on naturally dyes pigment, I printed with natural dyes. Shahid-51 BIBLIOGRAPGHY http://www.textile.gov.pk/gop/index.php?q=aHR0cDovLzE5Mi4xNjguNzAuMTM2L 21vdGkv http://dictionary.reference.com/browse/crafts?s=b&path=/ http://www.journals.elsevier.com/dyes-and-pigments/ Dr.Ahmed,Noor Pakistan Textile Dyeing and Finishing sector shows increased usage of natural dyes and colours http://www.ptj.com.pk/Web-2010/04-10/Dr.Noor.htm (19/06/2013) Dissertation,2009).pg25,26 Minhas,Salman www.the-south- asian.com, (07/2006) , http://www.the-southasian.com/jan2005/South_Asian_handlooms.htm, [19/06/2013] www.chm.bris.ac.uk, (2010),http://www.chm.bris.ac.uk/webprojects2002/price/azo.htm, [20/06/2013] Hussain,T, Department of Textile Chemistry, National Textile University, Faisalabad, Pakistan Dyeing properties of natural dyes extractedfrom eucalyptus Shahid-52 http://www.academia.edu/1932776/Dyeing_properties_of_natural_dyes_extracted_fro m_eucalyptus [20/06/13] digitalcommons.unl.edu, (2010), http://digitalcommons.unl.edu/cgi/viewcontent.cgi?article=1011&context=tsaconf ,[20/06/2013] www.dailytimes.com.pk, (Wednesday, October 20, 2004), http://www.dailytimes.com.pk/default.asp?page=story_20-10-2004_pg7_19, [20/06/2013] A future vision for natural dyeing in India[summary]www.ced.org.in, http://ced.org.in/docs/otherdocs/A_future_vision_for_natural_dyeing_Uzramma.doc
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