José Cueto on Literati - The Columbus Bonsai Society

Columbus Bonsai Society
PO Box 1981
Columbus, OH 43216-1981
Questions to:
[email protected]
HTTP://Columbusbonsai.org
Regular Club meetings on
3rd Sunday of the month
Meetings Start at 2:00 pm
All are welcome to attend
CBS Board meets
1st Tuesday of the month
at 6:30 pm
José Cueto on
Literati
SCHEDULE OF EVENTS FOR 8/17/2014
1:45 PM SOCIAL TIME
2:00 PM BUISINESS MEETING
2:15 PM PRESENTATION BEGINS
AUGUST 2014 Newsletter
President
Mike Thornhill
“A Pinch of this….”
Tree Curator
Rick Wilson
Director Emeritus
José Cueto
Inside this issue:
st
1 Vice President
Ken Schultz
Program Info
3
RABBIT HOLE
4
IS IT TOO LATE
7
MURATA BOOK
TWO FOR ONE
8
SHOW PHOTOS
10
2nd Vice President
Denny Sackett
1 year Director
Ben William
2 year Director
Jack Smith
3 year Director
Mark Passerrello
Past President
Zack Clayton
Calendar of Events 14
Treasurer
Richard Gurevitz
Secretary
Sandy
Schoenfeld
Librarian
Beverlee Wilson
Web Master
Ed McCracken
Newsletter Editor
Richard Uhrick
Education
Tom Holcomb
Mark Passerrello
Bonsai=Perseverance
Rich Uhrick
See you on the 19th and 20th
at Franklin Park
Conservatory
Rooms A, B, C, & D.
Columbus Bonsai Society PO Box 1981 Columbus OH 43216-1981
[email protected]
www.ColumbusBonsai.org
Columbus Bonsai is a proud member of the American Bonsai Society and Bonsai Clubs International.
2
3
COLUMBUS BONSAI SOCIETY
AUGUST 2014
This Month’s Program— AUGUST 17 LITERATI STYLE
H
ave you wondered where the Literati style bonsai got their name? The
samurai thought that these trees, which were more trunk than foliage,
reminded them of old scholars who study literature. This style features a
trunk that is not straight and is bare for 60-90% of
its length. The pot is usually round and shallow. The plant is
usually a pine or juniper. While many think that Literati break
all the usual rules of bonsai they have their own rules. Plan to
attend the August meeting where José Cueto; our Director
Emeritus, will present a slide show on Literati. He also plans to
show how literati are created. If you have a Literati; or a
potential literati tree, please bring it to this meeting; Jose’ may
provide suggestions on its continued development as time
permits. This could include sketching your tree.
The Columbus Bonsai Society
receives meeting space and other
support and assistance from Franklin
Park Conservatory and Oakland
Nurseries
DISCLAIMER
The Columbus Bonsai Society Newsletter, is
the intellectual property of the Columbus
Bonsai Society. All Rights Reserved. No part of
this publication may be reproduced in any form,
or by any means —electronic, mechanical,
photocopying, recording or otherwise —
without permission in writing from the Editor.
Rich Uhrick, Editor
[email protected]
UPCOMING PROGRAMS:
SEE PAGE 14 FOR MORE
DATES AND LISTINGS
COLUMBUS BONSAI SOCIETY
AUGUST 2014
4
AND NOW A WORD FROM OUR PRESIDENT….
THE RABBIT HOLE
ASDFGQWERTYZXCVB—Mike can still only type with
his left hand right now, but expresses the desire for everyone to
show up 17th We wish Mike a speedy recovery and
rehabilitation.
Coordinator for Picnic in September needed
Ken Schultz will not be available to oversee the needs and
activities for the picnic in September...We need a volunteer to
coordinate food, member sales, and program for this event.
Can I Transplant Now?
I
’ve read and know that fall transplanting is
possible. Gustafson writes that in Oregon he
transplants pines and junipers in the fall. But then
Gustafson has a milder climate than ours.
Recently, Wayne Schoech of Stone Lantern wrote an
article about fall transplanting on August 1. I know that
nurseries offer trees in the fall along with bulbs and a
few other things for fall planting. But when I’ve tried it,
I did not meet with success, so I’ve stopped trying until
now. Some of my trees missed getting repotted this past
spring, maybe its time to try again? I have a
Chamaecyparis that is long overdue for repotting.
What is the secret? Here are some of the tips
that the Stone Lantern article contained. They don’t
recommend repotting deciduous bonsai in the fall. I’d
put Larch and Redwood into this category. In the
article, Wayne says to avoid heavy root pruning and
shows only limited root work. In the article Mike
Hagedorn is referenced and he limits using water to
remove old soil to only half the soil. No bare rooting.
Timing is the most critical factor. Fall repotting MUST
occur with enough lead-time for the tree to recover
before the first freeze. The recommendation is a
minimum of six weeks. That can be tricky to forecast
here in Ohio. Frost may come as early as the last days
of September or not until after Halloween (November 2
would be a late frost date.) Interpolating the average
would be mid-October. Officially the average first
freeze is October 17. Therefore, you would need to
repot no later than September 5th. Maybe my past
efforts were too late? (Oakland Nursery told me that
they would be receiving pines for fall planting by mid to
late August.)
This cool summer weather got me to thinking;
this would be a great year to try again. Remember that
after care is the same as in the spring. Protect your
repotted trees from direct sun and winds. Water
carefully; new bonsai soil drains quickly and dry soil
will damage and kill young new roots. Daily misting
helps too. When winter arrives, newly repotted trees
may need better protection, so be sure to mulch them in
heavily.
Ken Schultz
COLUMBUS BONSAI SOCIETY
AUGUST 2014
5
HOW DO I CONTACT A BOARD MEMBER?
HERE’S HOW: BOARD MEMBER CONTACT LIST
President
Treasurer
Tree Curator
Secretary
Director Emeritus
José Cueto
[email protected]
Librarian
Mike Thornhill [email protected]
Sandy Schoenfeld [email protected]
1st Vice President
Ken Schultz
[email protected]
2nd Vice President
Denny Sackett [email protected]
1 year Director
Ben William
2 year Director
Jack Smith
Richard Gurevitz [email protected]
[email protected]
[email protected]
3 year Director
Mark Passerrello
[email protected]
Beverlee Wilson
[email protected]
Web Master
Ed McCracken [email protected]
Newsletter Editor
Richard Uhrick [email protected]
Education
Tom Holcomb [email protected]
Mark Passerrello [email protected]
Tree Curator
Rick Wilson [email protected]
Past President
Zack Clayton [email protected]
FROM THE CBS CARE GUIDE
USDA Hardiness Zones 5-6 (5 Northern Ohio, 6 Southern Ohio)
August - Late Summer - 84/62
Continue pruning, but watch for buds and think about next year's growth.
 Use lime-sulfur on jin and deadwood in summer. The heat and sun helps it absorb
into the wood, and the sunlight bleaches it quickly.
 Most deciduous and pines have a semi-dormant period in the extreme heat of
summer. Be cautious of watering.
 August-September is the ideal time for repotting tropical trees.
 You may start lowering the Nitrogen content of your fertilizer to slow foliar growth in
preparation for fall and winter.

COLUMBUS BONSAI SOCIETY
AUGUST 2014
6
Is it too late?
I
always seem to be behind in pruning.
This summer has been cooler and rainier
than normal, which seems to be causing a
growth spurt in many of my bonsai. I’ve
recently feed all my trees with half strength
Tomato food (20-20-20) since they are actively
growing and then followed up with Orchard
Spray. The bugs loved the tender new leaves
and with the cool wet weather, fungal diseases
are going to town. We were out of town for 4
days and when I looked the trees over upon our
return, I could see that these treatments have put
a halt to some bug and fungal damage, and at the
same time I saw a lot of new growth.
I started pinching back the shoots on
Ficus and Elms when I saw that the Azaleas and
pines have also taken off. This is when I
wondered, “Is it to late to trim them back?” I
inspected the tips of several 2- needle pines
(Scots and Mugo) – it was too late for pruning
back on many of them. On some, there were a
lot of back buds emerging this would allow
removal of the terminal buds or some cutting
back. But thinning buds at the tips is usually
done in the fall. The real question is, can I still
cut back some of the longer growth where I
want to control the length of the developing
branch? Maybe, as long as the new growth has
buds further back. Dead needles should be
removed to allow light to reach into the tree.
Azaleas are developing flower buds for
next spring. If you cut their new growth now,
you won’t have flowers next spring.
Nevertheless, you need to make some selections
to keep the internodes shorter and maintain your
foliage pads. While the new growth is flexible –
think about wiring now.
I also inspected wire on all my trees. I
ended up taking wire off of 4 trees where it was
beginning to cut in. The growth spurt results in
swelling, especially near the apex, while lower
branches normally grow more slowly. Be
careful when you remove the wire, so that new
buds and tender new growth that you want, does
not get damaged.
I will be repotting a Ficus that should be
growing, but is not, so I suspect that it is pot
bound. I noticed that Jade were loosing leaves
two weeks ago and now seem to be putting on
new leaves.
As I walked around, I made some notes
on what to prune now and what not to prune
back now. Here are my rambling notes: Larch,
seem to have stalled; they did a lot of growing
earlier. I pinch back the new growth to maintain
or create a silhouette. If you didn’t, prune now.
Two spotted mites hit Shimpaku and fungus.
Fertilizer has made them sprout and I pinch
growth shoots that are too long. Arborvitae,
Hinoki and False Cypress all need the tips
plucked to keep them in shape. Maples – pinch
or cut them back. It’s too late to cut leaves off
but you can remove large leaves. Spruce –
Black Hills, Alberta and the like – too late to
prune now. Junipers – San Jose’ and
Procumbens Nana should be plucked to balance
growth and limit die back of the inner foliage,
though they aren’t growing as rapidly as the
Shimpaku.
Potentilla hasn’t slowed in growth and I
continue to prune them regularly, Jose’ said they
grow like weeds. Pruning does reduce
flowering. The same is true for Lantana and
Rosemary. Conversely, my Crabapples and
Cherry seem to have stopped growing. To pinch
them now would take off the crabapples and
care needs to be taken when pruning if you plan
on flowers for next year. Boxwoods all seem to
have stopped growing for now, earlier they were
growing rapidly. I have two Porcelain Berries
and if I prune now, I would be cutting off fruit
clusters, so I will wait.
Zelkova and Hornbeams were stimulated
to grow, so I am pinching back to a leaf that will
result in growth in the direction I want. The ones
I repotted, never stopped growing and I have
pinched them back several times as I have
maples this year.
July 28, 2014 and it was only 71 today.
Ken Schultz
COLUMBUS BONSAI SOCIETY
AUGUST 2014
7
October 19, 2014- Presenting
“Pines are Easy (as Bonsai)
Julian R. Adams
Many of us are confused by the care needed to create
Specimen Pine Bonsai. During our regular meeting time
Julian Adams will present “Pines are Easy (as Bonsai)”. Julian has
been practicing the art of bonsai since 1970 and has been the proprietor of Adams Bonsai in Lynchburg since 1984. Julian founded the Central Virginia Bonsai
Society in 1985. Julian studied under Valavanis, Oshima, Sasaki, Billet, Peter Adams, Keith
Scott, Kathy Shaner, Kimura, Yamagi, and others
In the morning, eight lucky participants will have the opportunity to sign up to participate in a 2
-needle pine workshop conducted by Julian Adams. The workshop fee will be $25, plus the cost of the
tree. (More on this later.) At our August meeting, Ken Schultz will have a sign up sheet for those who
wish to take the workshop.
ADAMS' BONSAI is a hobby gone berserk.
Julian R. Adams, proprietor of Adams' Bonsai,
has been active in bonsai since receiving a gift
bonsai in 1971. Beyond improving his own
bonsai skills, Julian's primary interest is to make
bonsai plants and supplies conveniently
available to bonsai enthusiasts and to spread the
word about this great art form. Adams' Bonsai
was formed in 1984 to facilitate this interest.
Julian writes extensively about bonsai via
articles for English language bonsai publications
and the Central Virginia Bonsai Society
newsletter. In addition to shipped items, he
Removing old Azalea blooms—from
offers bonsai plants, wire, and supplies for sale
www.adamsbonsai..com
at periodic bonsai gatherings. Call to arrange for
delivery at these events. As scheduling permits, Julian is available for
lectures, demonstrations, and workshops. Phone and e-mail messages are
normally returned promptly. Visitors are welcome by appointment.—From
3-SESSION BEGINNER’S CLASS OFFERED
IN AUGUST
Franklin Park Conservatory as part of it’s Summer of Bonsai, will offer
a 3-session class on bonsai taught by members of the Columbus Bonsai
Society. August 16th, 23rd, and 30th from 10 am—12:30 pm. The costs
are $60 for conservatory members and $65 for non-members. See the
Franklin Park Conservatory website for more information.
http://www.fpconservatory.org/The-Experience/Classes/ForAdults/Gardening-Nature
COLUMBUS BONSAI SOCIETY
AUGUST 2014
8
BOOK OF THE MONTH: Bonsai: Trees and Shrubs "A Guide to the
Methods of Kyuzo Murata” By Lynn R. Perry, 1964
W
hen I the reviewer picked up this
book from the Columbus Bonsai
Society library, I was surprised. I
thought I knew every book on bonsai
ever printed in English from the 1950's through the
1970's. Here was a book and an author that was
totally unknown to me! Worse yet, in finding out
more about the author, she had taught at the
Brooklyn Botanic Gardens and had penned several
articles in their Handbook, Bonsai: Special
Techniques, I should have known her! I even
Japan (1989), Kyuzo Murata & Lynn R. Perry
remember the articles but not the author. I was 11
(redhead)
when I started my interest in all things bonsai in
1964. I was living in the New York City area and
had several classes from 1966-1971 with Frank
Japan when she was also a student of Kyuzo
Okamura at the Brooklyn Botanic Gardens. I
Murata. Mr. Murata thought so highly that gave her
attended the Bonsai Society of Greater New York's
a teaching certificate for bonsai (1960-1962). Later
monthly meetings during that time. I was a student
in the 1960's, she taught bonsai at the Brooklyn
of Yuji Yoshimura and yet I never came across or
Botanic Gardens. She operated the Suzu-en Bonsai
heard of Lynn R. Perry. Yes, I was a teenager so
Company, which imported and sold bonsai tools.
that might account for some of it.
The last reference I find for Lynn R.
However, thinking back, I wonder
Perry is with a new surname in 1967
why this educated and accomplished
of Alstadt and leading a group to Japan
woman was not part of my bonsai
for classes with Kyuzo Murata and it
education? Nor her book on bonsai
included Jerry Stowell and George Hull.
practice dedicated to one of the famous
In the early 1970's she was director of the
bonsai artists of my youth, Kyuzo
American Bonsai Society.
Murata? All I can fathom at this point,
This book is very interesting to read here
was there was in those years an
in 2014. The book reflects a time before
overwhelming emphasis on Japanese
the opening up of mainland China, where
experts like Okamura, Yoshimura and
all things bonsai start with and end with
Naka here in the USA. Ms. Perry was not
the Japanese.
Japanese. I remember hearing arguments
The book has very detailed information
against George Hull and Jerry Stowell
on horticultural practices and customs
since they were not Japanese who had
Kyuzo Murata & Kudo his such as for displaying bonsai. Over half
books out on bonsai. So maybe that
the book is a compendium of plant
favorite Bonsai.
applied to her, too. In addition, in those
information based on specific plant
days whether we like to admit it or not there was a
species. What the book lacks is details in design
strong prejudice against women for being
graphics, which the Brooklyn Botanic Gardens
authorities and experts in anything. It was the
Handbook does. So I respect and honor this book as
1960's. Therefore, it is with much delight, I can
part of the movement to introduce and develop
review this book by Lynn R. Perry in 2014 and
bonsai in the United States. It is still an excellent
point to one of the pioneers of early bonsai in the
resource for horticultural practice. In July 2008,
USA.
Lynn R. Perry (Alstadt) was put to rest. May we
Here is some background on Ms. Perry. She
remember her as an early pioneer in introducing
is a graduate of the Pennsylvania School of
bonsai to an American audience.
Horticulture for Women. Was part of the staff of the
Agricultural Attaché for the American Embassy in
Athanasios Thomas Stama
COLUMBUS BONSAI SOCIETY
AUGUST 2014
9
BOOK OF THE MONTH: Bonsai – Miniature Potted Trees, Their
training and care for beginner By Kyuzo Murata
K
yuzo Murata was a rather prolific author;
I’ve reviewed two other books that he
authored. This one was originally
copywrited in 1964. My copy is a 26th
printing released in 1989. Due to its age it is mostly
black and white photos and drawings with a very few
color prints. The book I have is a soft cover, 6”X9”
114 pages. The book is organized into six sections.
These are: Answers to Questions Concerning the art
of Bonsai, Guide to Growing Bonsai, Introduction to
Branch Arrangement, Some points to bear in mind in
taking care of Bonsai, Growing Some Typical
Bonsai and Brief
Description of the Growing
Techniques of Bonsai.
Short titles are never the
forte’ of books translated
from Japanese to English.
As I read I realized that
translating Japanese to
English has advanced
greatly since this book was
interpreted. For example
when listing the “Necessary
Conditions of Bonsai” item
three is “The branches must
be rich in variety and of
artistic appearance.”
However, as I conducted
my review and took notes
on items that were
noteworthy or “useful
tidbits that I do not recall
reading before." I was
pleasantly surprised.
Murata says to
transplant Shimpaku in the
spring when the temperature
reaches 18C. (64.4F).
Remove the old soil and 1/3
of the roots. Determine position in the pot making
sure its not to low. He is one who does not use
copper wire to hold a tree in the pot. Many believe
that the copper inhibits root growth. He advises to
use a chopstick o make sure soil reaches all roots.
Water, and then protect the newly transplanted tree
from wind, placing it in an area with only morning
sun for 2-3 hours.
“How many years does it take to make a
bonsai?” – there is a chart of 10 plants; Quince are 12 years, Cotoneaster are 5-6 years, Black Pine- 10
years and Japanese Red Pine – 15 years. In answer
to “How long do they last?” He says the average is
60-70 years with some lasting several centuries.
Guide to Growing Bonsai (pgs. 24-44) His
first bit of advice is to start with cheaper trees. He
lists a variety of suitable plants…for Tokyo; but
many are commonly available to us here. He notes
the best season to acquire each type of plant; most
were spring with the exception being needle leaved
evergreens, which were listed as October and
November. His
presumption is that you are
going to want to work on
your new trees.
Containers and Soil
preparation – Murata
advises to wash your
containers first, regardless if
they are new or old. AS
with order books, this one
advises coarser soil in the
bottom, grading to finer soil
at the top. Since the author
is from Japan he discusses
Kanuma, not Turface.
When preparing a tree for
repotting, he says with trees
with few branches – take
nothing off. For trees with
fine roots (e.g. azaleas)
press down lightly. Again
protect them for a week or
two from the wind and sun.
When watering or fertilizing
he says to use water that is
the same temperature as the
air. But if you water with
cold water, do it
consistently. He keeps his soil level below the edge
of the pot to allow the water to pool and soak in to
ensure that it doesn’t run off. He uses two different
roses (the watering thing that has holes in it) to
water, “shower” to water soil and “mist” for the
foliage and trunk. In winter he waters every 4th or 5th
day….in Tokyo. Tokyo is a warm Zone 6. While he
warns against excessive watering, he says that he
(Continued on page 12)
COLUMBUS BONSAI SOCIETY
Tracy Freeland brings home top
honors in Member’s Choice
AUGUST 2014
10
COLUMBUS BONSAI SOCIETY
AUGUST 2014
11
COLUMBUS BONSAI SOCIETY
(Continued from page 9)
waters 2 to 3 times a day in summer. He uses rape
seed cakes that are 5-3-2 as his slow release fertilizer,
plus a water-soluble fertilizer at 1/5th the recommended
concentration every two weeks to provide extra P and
K. He says he does this on a day without rain.
While this book has very few color pictures it
does have a lot of black and white photos and
drawings. There is also more text provided to describe
what newer books cover with a few photos.
“The Purpose of Pinching” He details how and
when to improve ramification. He notes that Quince
and Azalea will bud on their trunks. These should be
removed unless they are needed, to prevent scarring of
the bark. He warns that late pinching results in new
buds that will be prone to cold damage in the winter.
“Introduction to Branch Arrangement” (pgs.
45-61) of interest was the recommended use of paper
wrapped wire of raffia to prevent wire from cutting in.
He explains and shows how to use double layers of
raffia and wire assisted bending with raffia. He says
that the year before you wire, fertilize the tree and the
wood will be softer and easier to bend. Also a day or
two of dryness before wiring will increase flexibility.
After wring, he suggests no direct sun, wind or rain,
but provide bright light. When wiring he recommends
a low table with a turntable – so that wiring can be
done while seated – not standing.
In the “Order of Wiring” section Murata shows
that the #1 branch is wired first, then the first sub
branch on the #1 branch out to the tip, then the #2
branch the #3 and so on, leaving the top to last. On
older trees he says that the most difficult branches are
left till last. While wiring use the thumb of your
trailing hand to hold the wire against the bark while
you wire with your lead hand. He shows using a trunk
splitter to make bending a trunk easier. When using a
bender on the trunk he bends it 2-3 times to make it
easier to bend and wire. Again remember that he uses
raffia to help prevent evaporation from split bark.
Trunk bending followed the section on branch wiring,
which seemed out of order to me. However, this book
covered a wider array of wiring issues than a majority
of other books. For example, Murata covers wiring
forked branches. He explains that raffia is used on
trees with brittle wood or thin/smooth bark. He notes
that branch tips need to be wired up to maintain vitality
of growth and that a newly wired tree needs rest as
does a newly transplanted tree, after wiring because it
is irritating (his word) to the tree. (And no fertilizer
for the 2 weeks it is resting.) He cautions that you need
to plan carefully so that you are twisting in the same
direction as the wire when you bend a branch.
Care (pages 62-68) Murata says bonsai need to
be “watched with constant affection.” Pines only need
repotting every 4-5 years. Pinching buds and wiring
AUGUST 2014
12
show alternate bud selection on maples. If you like
maples and want good ramification movement this is a
must see. Cutting leaves is recommended for Maples,
Zelkova and Elms. On maples he cuts mid leaf unless
the branch is weak, then he says not to cut. For elms
and Zelkova he says to cut off ALL branch tips then
cut leaves. He says to follow leaf cutting with water
and fertilizer until new leaves and buds emerge.
When carving wood he says to preserve the
wood and water and fertilize during the recovery
period as the tree experiences extreme stress.
Various Bonsai Plants (pages 68-114) He
presents a number of species used for bonsai along
with specific care instructions. He covers Black Pine,
White Pine, Spruce, Cedar, Apricot, Quince (this one
is unique based on caring for a shrub.) Wisteria (also
unique as it is a vine. He mentions growing from a
seed will take 20 years!)
Japanese Maple – has a root-over-rock page.
He says to spray their leaves once a day. Let it grow 3
leaf sets before reducing to one. He wraps his wire
with paper to prevent scarring. He transplants only
every 3-5 years as annual transplanting causes it to
grow rapidly and lose its shape.
Shimpaku (J. chinensis) If it throws cedar like
foliage it means that it needs more fertilizer, cutting it
off is not the answer. He says it needs protecting from
mid-afternoon sun. He also protects Needle junipers
and Zelkova from mid afternoon sun. He protects his
Zelkova in the winter.
Japanese Beech – he lets them grow long the
1st year. Uses paper wrapped wire. Trimming to many
branches at one will cause withering. He also shows
root-over rock specimen.
Gingko – He says that it takes 30 years to
develop a mature look” in the mean time, enjoy their
yellow fall foliage. Shade in the afternoon to prevent
leaf burn. He notes that because of its growth pattern
it will be a TALL bonsai (60cm). Pinch terminal buds
to 2-3 leaves. However, after the second pinching
you should not pinch again until after the new
growth hardens.
Cotoneaster – Wire in spring before the
buds come out.
Quince – long lived. Start with cuttings not
seeds. Transplant yearly, before the buds come out.
Ken Schultz – July 2014.
COLUMBUS BONSAI SOCIETY
AUGUST 2014
13
From the Circulation Desk of the C.B.S. Library
The CBS Library Materials List is now available in spreadsheet format on our CBS website's
Library Tab.
Users can Sort, Filter and Search the list. There are a few little buttons at the bottom of the
embedded spreadsheet that allow you to download the spreadsheet, or open a full page version in a
new window. Users can then email the librarian at [email protected] to request materials.
Another new feature is a column indicating if the Book has been reviewed and the information to
access the review. For instance “NL Feb. 2011 (Schultz)” would indicate that the review is in the
Newsletter, Feb 2011 issue, and Ken Schultz authored the review.
We hope this will make the collection more available to the membership. Let us know your
thoughts.
We have completed the Accession Process for all the Books in the Club’s Collection. All have a
Card and Pocket for ease of Check Out.
Beverlee Wilson, Librarian
John Young, Asst. Librarian
[email protected]
Memberships may be paid for more than one year at a time.
COLUMBUS BONSAI SOCIETY
AUGUST 2014
14
Bonsai Here and Beyond the Outer belt
Unless otherwise noted, The Columbus Bonsai Society meets the third Sunday of every month at 2:00 pm .
Board Meetings are the first Tuesday of the month at 6:30 pm. The board meetings are open to members.
AUG 17
AUG 21-24
AUG 23-24
SEP 21
OCT 19
NOV 16
DEC 14
2014
LITERATI WITH JOSÉ AND BYOT “FORMER WORKSHOP”—FPC
BCI 2014 GOLD COAST—QUEENSLAND AUSTRALIA
ANN ARBOR BONSAI SHOW—ANN ARBOR, MI
PICNIC—OAKLAND
PINE WORKSHOP WITH JULIAN ADAMS—FPC
BRANCH STRUCTURE—FPC
HOLIDAY DINNER
http://goldcoast2014.bonsai-bci.com/bci-auction-2014.html
FPC= FRANKLIN PARK CONSERVATORY
OAKLAND= OAKLAND NURSERY, COLUMBUS LOCATION