Waterways Guide Front

Pa ssum p sic
One of the most enjoyable canoeing and camping trips
in the Northeast Kingdom is right on the Vermont-New
Hampshire border. The Connecticut River separates the
two states. At 407 miles, the Connecticut is the longest river
in New England.
Put in near Canaan,
one of the northernmost
towns in the NEK, and hit
the rapids down to Maidstone, in the shadow of
Monadnock Mountain.
After Maidstone, the river
slows to a meandering
avenue offering spectacular mountain views of
the Connecticut River Valley. Conclude your 55mile trip at Gilman just
Photo Provided by
before Moore Reservoir.
Katie Barret
The reservoir covers
3,500 acres and is ideal
for boating, waterskiing,
tubing and fishing.
Two covered bridges in the NEK connect Vermont and
New Hampshire across the Connecticut: the Columbia
Covered Bridge between Lemington, Vt., and Columbia,
N.H., and the Mount Orne Bridge between Lunenburg, Vt.,
and Lancaster, N.H.
The Passumpsic River allows for
a 43-mile canoe trip through the
heart of the Northeast Kingdom.
Rooftops of town buildings poke
through the beautiful forest scenery
along the river’s banks. Not many
areas of this river have rushing
water, which makes for a gentle,
scenic ride. Pastures, barns and
covered bridges give the river a rural
feel as it winds its way from East
Burke through Lyndonville, St.
Johnsbury and East Barnet to the
Connecticut.
Seven dam portages allow you to
take out your canoe or kayak and
put back in if you’re traveling down
river. The portages are also spots
where you can attempt to hook a
hiding trout. Railroad tracks along
the river reflect a history of contrasting modes of transportation used to
move people and goods through the
NEK.
Keep your eyes open, you might
spy a busy beaver working on his
lodge, or swimming alongside you
as you head downstream.
Big
Falls
Watch your step
near the cliff-top
overlook at Big
Falls, on the Mississquoi River. There’s
no fence between
you and an 80-foot
drop into the gorge.
For a slightly safer
but no less beautiful
view of the falls, go
to the ledges near
the upper drop or
head down near the
rocks, downstream
of the gorge. Listen
for the roar created
in the narrow confines of the gorge by
the water tumbling
40 feet down the
rocks.
Big Falls is 1.5
miles
south
of
Route 105 on River
Road in Troy.
Barton River
The Barton River runs 22 miles through the Northeast
Kingdom. The river starts on the outskirts of the town of
Glover and meanders through Barton, Orleans, Brownington and Coventry before joining the South Bay at Lake
Memphremagog.
The Barton is mostly a quiet river, except in the spring
when the melting snow causes a swift high current. The
river is an easy canoe or kayak trip in the summer.
The river is known for excellent fishing. Brook and
rainbow trout are plentiful, and anglers can also hook
landlocked salmon.
Black River
Located in Orleans County, the Black River
is 30 miles long. It rises in Craftsbury and flows
into Eligo Pond where it eventually changes directions and flows north and northeast into Lake
Memphremagog. The river passes through Albany, Irasburg, and Coventry, and is know for
abundant wildlife habitats and unsettled,
forested banks.
Lakes of the
Kingdom
Lake Willoughby
Crystal
Photo Provided by Norm LeDuc
Island Pond
Island Pond is a smaller lake nestled in the heart of the
Northeast Kingdom, about 16 miles from the Canadian border. Named after the 20-acre island in the middle of the
lake, Island Pond was the first international railroad junction in America, a stop that helped connect Portland,
Maine, and Montreal.
The village once boasted 13 railroad tracks and it was
alive with lumberjacks and railroad workers. Now it draws
outdoor enthusiasts who find fine fishing and hunting
nearby, and pampering at the excellent inns and bed and
breakfasts in town.
Covered Bridges in NEK
Don’t miss the rustic beauty of the Northeast Kingdom’s
covered bridges during your waterway trip. The roofs over
these wooden spans prevented the timbers from weathering. Two styles were most popular in the Kingdom: Queenspost with its utilitarian structure, and Paddelford with its
“X” truss design. A sampling:
Fisher Bridge (Wolcott): Built in 1908 and one of the last
of its kind, this 109-foot bridge still carries trains across the
Lamoille River. Now a Vermont Historical Landmark, the
bridge is a beautiful example of steel-work and craftsmanship.
Greenbanks Hollow Bridge (Danville): This ghostly looking bridge crosses Joe’s Brook just upstream from a broken
dam. Built in 1886, the 75-foot Queenspost bridge once
provided access to one of the largest cloth mills in New
England, which burned down and was never rebuilt.
Mount Orne Bridge (Lunenburg): This 266-foot bridge
crosses the Connecticut River into Lancaster, N.H. First
built in the 1860s, it was destroyed and restored throughout
the years. The last rebuilding was in 1983.
Sanborn Bridge (Lyndon): This beautiful, 120-foot Paddleford bridge was built in 1869 and crosses the Passumpsic River, providing tourists with great photo opportunities.
Miller’s Run Bridge (Lyndon): This is the only covered
bridge still in active use on a state highway in Vermont. The
56-foot Queenspost style bridge crosses Miller’s Run on
Route 122.
Northeast Forest Canoe Trail
In 1759, during the French and Indian War, Robert
Rogers led his Rogers’ Rangers on a raid of the Indian settlement of St. Francis in Quebec. After the successful raid,
Rogers and his Rangers were pursued through northern
Vermont by French and Indian forces as they made their
way back to base. One of the areas they were chased
through was the Crystal Lake area.
Located in Barton along Route 5, Crystal Lake is 3 miles
long and about a mile wide. It is bordered on one side by
tall cliffs – ideal for bird watching in a boat or just taking in
the view as the sun cascades down the cliff and glitters
over the water.
The beach on the northern shore of Crystal is nearly a
mile long. The beach house at Crystal Lake is made of
granite and contains rest rooms, changing areas, and a
concession stand. The granite for the beach house came
from an old quarry on the eastern side of the lake.
Caspian
Lake Caspian in Greensboro doubles as a natural
bandshell. The strings and woodwinds of classical music
concerts can be heard playing over Caspian’s waters
every Sunday evening in the summer. The sounds emanate from the Landon Lake House on the southern
shore. In a tradition that was started six decades ago,
visitors to Caspian enjoy the recorded concerts from their
boats, docks and porches.
The Greensboro Blues Jam is a popular series of
blues concerts held at the Caspian Lake Grange every
second Saturday, from June through September at 8 pm.
Photo Provided by Vermont Life
Northeast Kingdom’s Alpine Gem
Lake Willoughby has often been likened to Lake
Lucerne in Switzerland due to the panorama created by
the lake being sandwiched between two mountains, Pisgah and Hor.
The lake was formed thousands of years ago when a
glacier traveled between the mountains on either side of
the water.
As the largest lake in Vermont entirely within the state’s
border, it has a maximum depth of 312 feet and spreads
out across 1,692 acres.
Lake Willoughby, a National Natural Landmark, is also
the site of the annual Lake Dip, an event held by area polar
bear clubbers to raise money for the American Cancer Society.
Pulpit Rock and Devil’s Rock
Hikers ascending the Mount Pisgah trail will find a natural formation called Pulpit Rock, named because the rock
resembles a church pulpit. At 1,710 feet, Pulpit Rock is a
popular spot which offers eagle-eye views of the lake and
Mt. Hor.
Devil’s Rock, also known as Devil’s Den, can be seen
on the Mt. Pisgah side of Willoughby, about a half mile
from the southern end of the lake. It is a large rocky outcropping jutting into the lake and is a popular spot for
swimmers to jump from.
It isn’t named for the local daredevils. The reflection of
the rock seen sideways in calm water resembles a devil’s
face, and from the lake, a painted devil is visible on the
rock. Although it was painted many years ago, every once
in a while the painting is touched up so it keeps its fiery
red color.
West Cove Beach
The South Shore Trail at the southern end of Lake
Willoughby will take a visitor to two secluded beaches.
The beach on the east side ends at what people on the
west side call “the invisible door.” This is where Lake
Willoughby’s West Cove Beach begins.
West Cove Beach is clothing-optional. Small print on a
sign posted at the beginning of the trail explains that anyone coming to West Cove Beach ought to be prepared to
see nude bodies.
West Cove attracts up to 40 local regulars along
with nudists from as far away as Europe. Fourth of July
weekend is an especially busy time.
Steamboats
Treasure hunters and myth seekers need not dive to the
depths of the world’s oceans to explore wrecked ships; the
bottom of Lake Willoughby is rumored to be something of
a steamboat graveyard. It is said that decommissioned
steamboats were scuttled on Willoughby to avoid taking
up space on land.
Steamboats were once all the rage on Lake Willoughby
in the mid-19th century, a popular resort destination then
and today. One of the most famous steamboat captains
was a man by the name of Rufus Averill, known as the Admiral of Willoughby. Averill used steamers named the
“Magic” and the “Alice R.” to take tourists out on excursions around the whole lake. Part of Averill’s tour included
identifying the different named natural formations on Mt.
Pisgah, like Ben Butler, the Chinese Woman, the Indian
Shooting His Gun, the Jersey Cow, the Lion’s Head, the
Duck, and the Beer Bottle. The last of Averill’s steamboats
was the “Keewaydin,” which continued to run tours around
Lake Willoughby, even after Captain Averill’s death in
1911.
and Maine.
The Northeast Kingdom section follows
the Clyde and Nulhegan on a 60-mile trip
from Lake Memphremagog to the Connecticut River.
Depending on where you put in, you can
enjoy a smooth day of paddling or an ad-
Groton
State
Forest
Pack up the car,
take along a camera,
a fishing pole and
your hiking boots,
and lose yourself in
the beauty of Groton
State Forest. It consists of over 26,000 acres, contains six
state parks, and is located between Route 2 in Marshfield
and Route 302 in Groton.
Trout are abundant in several of the forest’s ponds,
which are ringed by well-worn hiking trails. Stop by Kettle
Pond, a beautiful and secluded area that features a moss
covered forest floor, or visit the Peacham Bog, a unique
wetland comprised entirely of peat moss.
venturous push through rapids.
You will portage frequently if you make
the entire trip to the New Hampshire border. Scenery is your reward: a panoramic
vista, a young moose nibbling on grass.
The trail was officially completed in
spring 2006 and is managed by volunteers.
Traveling the entire route requires skill and
commitment. The first to do it was Donnie
Mullen, who completed the journey from
Old Forge, New York, to Fort Kent, Maine,
in 55 days in a 16-foot wooden canoe he
built himself.
For more information, go to northern-
C old enoug h f or y a ?
This large lake in
the town of Morgan in
the mountains of Orleans County resembles a golf hole that
doglegs to the left. The
depth maxes out at
210 feet, and the surface area totals 1777
acres. Route 11 runs
along the eastern side
of the lake, providing
access to the beaches
and boat access on
Seymour.
Although Seymour
is in a hilly region,
there aren’t many high
mountain walls to
block the wind, making
it a perfect lake for
windsurfing. The dogleg acts as an avenue for the prevailing westerly winds. On
a blustery day you can reach motorboat speeds.
Windsurfing requires a board and a sail. Steering is accomplished by tilting or rotating the sail instead of using a
rudder like a sailboat. Wind speeds of 15 to 25 knots are
ideal, though you can windsurf with lighter breezes.
Photo Provided by Jenn Hanlon, Island Pond Chamber of Commerce
Lake
Memphremagog
Lake Memphremagog straddles the Canadian
The lake was an important smuggling route durborder, extending 33 miles from Newport, Ver- ing Prohibition. See if you can find Skinner’s Cave,
mont, to the beaches in Magog, Quebec. It is a fa- a notorious smuggler’s hideout. Jagged teeth at
vorite among sailboating enthusiasts.
its mouth were meant to warn away the nosy.
Wa t ery leg end s t o f ill a King d om
Vermont’s Northeast Kingdom offers waterway fun all
year long. Ice-fishing huts start appearing in late November,
provided the ice is strong enough. Vermont laws say the
shanties must be off the ice no later than the last Sunday
in March.
Test the depth of ice before fishing. Be sure to check the
surrounding area for thin ice, open ice or moving water.
Water does not freeze uniformly. Be on the lookout for
cracked ice. If you spot cracks that go all the way through
the ice, cracks that show water, or cracks that intersect and
cause a weak spot, DO NOT try to fish there!
Each year the people of Glover hold a race in celebration of a mad dash two centuries ago that saved lives when
Long Pond famously turned into Runaway Pond. On June
6, 1810, 60 men began to dig a trench between Long Pond
and the Barton River to give mill owners more current during dry months.
Suddenly, the wall of the pond collapsed, and a billion
gallons of water took aim at the town. A worker by the
name of Chamberlain ran ahead of the torrent to warn the
town and the people of the mills that the water was
coming. The wall of water reached 70 feet in height at
times and cleared away houses, barns, trees and rocks. It
joined the Barton River and within six hours had made its
way to Lake Memphremagog, more than 25 miles away.
Whole towns were devastated, but not one human life
was lost. Today a granite marker on Route 16 identifies the
spot where the pond ran away. A small fountain taps into
a spring that is thought to have fed the old pond. Tables
made of old millstones invite picnickers. The stones are all
that is left of one of the mills destroyed in the flood of Runaway Pond.
Does a monster inhabit Lake Memphremagog? Barbara
Malloy of Newport is so convinced the lake is home to sea
creatures that she opened an institute to research them,
the International Dracontology Society. She even gave the
serpents a name: “Memphre.” Malloy traces sightings back
to 1816; she says her first sighting was in 1983.
Another legend holds that Memphremagog and Lake
Willoughby are connected by an underground channel.
And Willoughby evidently had its own monster more than
100 years ago. Author Joseph Citro cites a newspaper article about 12-year-old Stephen Edmonds, who sighted a
23-foot snake — and cut it in half with a sickle.
Northeast Kingdom
Waterways
Seymour
Great Hosmer Pond
Paddle your way through history on the
Northern Forest Canoe Trail as it wanders
through the Northeast Kingdom. The entire
740-mile trail traces Native American travel
routes linking the watersheds of northern
New York, Vermont, Quebec, New Hampshire
Lyndon State College students researched, wrote and designed this
brochure as part of a publications class. Members: Katie Barrett, Caleb
Byerly, Derika Downing, Dillon Eliassen, Tabitha Fizgerald, Ian Jenkins,
Jessica Millhiser, Mary Wheeler, and Keith Whitcomb Jr.
Instructor: Dan Williams
Photo Provided by Jenn Hanlon
Rivers of the Kingdom
C onnect icut
Copyright 2006 NEKTTA
Northeast Kingdom Travel and Tourism Association
P.O. Box 212 East Burke, VT 05832
802-626-8511
1-800-884-8001
FAX 802-626-8803
www.travelthekingdom.com
Photo Provided by Vermont Life
Get in on the secret. Discover the waterways of
Vermont’s Northeast Kingdom. Anglers will find the
best trout and salmon fishing in the state. Sailors
and paddlers will delight in 40,000 acres of lakes
and ponds, and 4,000 miles of rivers and streams.
There’s more water here than any other region in
Vermont outside Lake Champlain.
Plan on spending an extra night or two in the
Northeast Kingdom – and returning again and
again. Each visit promises something new. The
NEK is the ideal place to try your hand at fly-fishing. New canoeists and kayakers can find calm
waters for a pleasant cruise, while more experienced paddlers can always find faster-moving
rivers to challenge them.
Photo Provided by Sterling College
This lake in the western reaches of the Northeast Kingdom is home to the Craftsbury Outdoor Center and the oldest rowing camp in North America. You can tune your
sculling skills at the world-class facility or rent a canoe or
kayak for a slower tour of the cedar-rimmed shoreline. The
center also offers running camps in summer and Nordic ski
training in winter.
The center sprawls across 320 acres of fields and
forests around Great Hosmer (which has less surface area
than nearby Little Hosmer Pond). A gym with a massage
and sauna center, 50 miles of trails, plus volleyball, tennis
and basketball courts round out the activities. Lodging for
solo guests, families and training groups is available. Meals
are included, and the cuisine is so popular the center published its own cookbook.
Listen from a lakeside cabin for the haunting call
of a loon. Watch in quiet wonder as a moose takes
a drink from a brook. Drift away an evening under
a canopy of stars you could never experience in
an urban setting.
The waterways of the kingdom bid you welcome.