guide - Lonely Planet

PRODUCED BY LONELY PLANET FOR
Broadway honky tonks
PHOTO BY: F11PHOTO / SHUTTERSTOCK ©
BBQ, boot scootin’ and more have made Nashville famous, with many
celebrities in all genres of music calling Music City home. But there’s
more to discover in Middle Tennessee, where the memories of new
experiences will rival those made honky-tonk hopping on Broadway.
Through easy weekend getaways, you can explore the
central plateau, where nature takes center stage and shows
off her splendor, small towns await your discovery and a
spotlight shines on great musicians and their deep
connections to Tennessee.
Celeste’s Adventure
Want to tick off some of the
exciting experiences had by Celeste
and her family? Look for the
camera icon throughout this guide.
DISTANCE
235 MILES
Canvas the
Cumberland Plateau
DAY 1
Start the day off by driving just south of Nashville to
Murfreesboro, a former agricultural center that’s now
home to three colleges, including Middle Tennessee
State University. Play off the eclectic college town vibe
and start the day at Pfunky Griddle, where diners
are seated around tables with built-in griddles to make
their own pancake creations. After filling up on a hearty
breakfast, continue east towards McMinnville, which is
perched on the fringes of the Cumberland Plateau.
PHOTO BY: KENNETH KEIFER / SHUTTERSTOCK ©
The fringes of the Cumberland Plateau reach into Middle Tennessee, where adventure junkies and families
alike will love what the region has to offer in the way of good old-fashioned fun. By heading southeast of
Nashville, you’ll discover some of nature’s finest waterfalls, rock formations and rivers, which, when combined with kayaking, hiking and ziplining make for a memorable weekend outdoors.
Burn off the morning’s calories by kayaking the Collins River,
which can be arranged easily at Smooth Rapids Outfitters
in town. Grab lunch at Depot Bottom Country Store in
McMinnville, where the menu changes daily but offers country
classics such as a grilled spicy pimento cheese sandwich.
Right outside of the homey town is the world famous
Cumberland Caverns. At the historic site that was
first discovered in 1810, you’ll find over 32 miles of underground caves, waterfalls and pools waiting to be
explored. One-and-a-half hour tours involve spelunking
and climbing up ladders, over rocks, and through
tunnels to marvel at the natural rock formations.
Tennessee caverns
PHOTO BY: DAVID PUGSLEY PHOTOGRAPHY / GETTY IMAGES ©
After all of the activity, take a load off and experience
Bluegrass Underground at the Cumberland Caverns;
artists regularly play 333ft underground in the cavern’s
Volcano Room.
Check into Falcon’s Manor at Falcon’s Rest for a good
night’s sleep.
DAY 2
Explore the grounds where you slept at Falcon’s Rest, a
historic and purportedly haunted mansion dating to 1896,
and enjoy breakfast in their charming tearoom. Then hop
in the car for a day of serious outdoor exploring, starting
by going east to Fall Creek Falls State Park. The largest
and most popular state park in Tennessee has 26,000 acres
of discovery, including 256ft high Fall Creek Falls.
Be sure to aside a couple of hours to race and zipline
through 70 obstacles on the course at ZIPStream Fall
Creek Falls.
PHOTO BY: KNEVERETT / GETTY IMAGES ©
Fall Creek Falls State Park
Twin Falls, Rock Island State Park
Afterwards, drive northwest back towards McMinnville and
stop for lunch at Foglight Foodhouse in Walling, where you
can dine on Cajun food while overlooking the waters of
Caney Fork on the Collins River. Continue chasing waterfalls
through nearby Rock Island State Park, located at the
headwaters of Centre Hill Lake.
Did you know?
More than 60 waterfalls are within the 40-mile radius
of the Falls Creek Falls Inn on the western shore of
Falls Creek Falls Lake.
A notable waterfall is Great Falls, a 30ft horseshoe-shaped
natural wonder located beneath the cotton mill it powered
over a century ago. Nearby, there is a natural sand beach for
relaxing and reflecting. Choose from nine hiking trails such as
the Moonshine Trail and Eagle Trail, and watch Tennessee’s
gorgeous sunset before heading back into Nashville.
DISTANCE
269 MILES
LIFE Along the
Natchez Trace Parkway
Fill up both your belly and your gas tank at Loveless Cafe,
about 15 miles south of Nashville. Feast on Southern classics
such as biscuits and gravy and country ham before hitting
the road. Make your first stop at Leiper’s Fork, a delightful
enclave of art galleries and antique shops.
Take a detour off the Parkway to Columbia, the town
President Polk once called home. There are many antebellum
houses to explore, demonstrating the economic and political
power that this part of the state held in the mid-1800’s. Visit
the Polk Presidential Center to learn more about one of
the three presidents that hailed from Tennessee.
From there, drive south to Mount Pleasant and have a soda
at the old-fashioned soda counter at the Mount Pleasant
Grille. Continue south through Tennessee’s Amish Country
and get a glimpse of their life by taking a ride in a covered
wagon or visiting one of their farms.
Scenic view from Natchez Trace Parkway
PHOTO BY: JOE8211943 / LONELY PLANET ©
DAY 1
PHOTO BY: JAMES R. MARTIN / SHUTTERSTOCK ©
The highway that stretches down from Pasquo, Tennessee, to Natchez, Mississippi is one of the
most beautiful stretches of unspoiled country. Along the way, small towns offer up their indelible
charms, such as historic landmarks, antebellum homes, delightful eateries and spots to take in
nature in repose. This trip ends in the musically significant town of Muscle Shoals, Alabama, with
unforgettable spots highlighted along the way.
Quick Tip
It goes against the Amish’s religious beliefs to be
photographed, so respect this wish when visiting
their community.
Loveless Cafe
PHOTO BY: JUSTINMCD / GETTY IMAGES ©
Keep going south to Lawrenceburg, the town that
Congress has declared ‘The Birthplace of Southern Gospel
Music.’ Also in town are the David Crockett Monument,
the Trail of Tears Memorial and the James D. Vaughan
Museum, where you can learn about the father of Southern
Gospel Music.
Drive west to hop back on the Natchez Trace Parkway
and enjoy the relatively untouched countryside. Stretch your
legs at one of many trailheads in this corner of the state,
such as Sweetwater Branch or Sunken Trace, and pass
through the Tennessee-Alabama state line.
Once in Alabama, head to Florence and check into a
friendly B&B, like the Limestone, and dine at one of the
charming eateries downtown, such as Odette.
DAY 2
This northern stretch of Alabama is rich in varied history.
Head to nearby Tuscumbia to see the birthplace of Helen
Keller and visit the Alabama Music Hall of Fame. Then
drive back through Florence to visit the Frank Lloyd
Wright Rosenbaum House Museum, stopping before
the river in Muscle Shoals. The now infamous town is
the birthplace of the ‘Muscle Shoals Sound’, which has
been an influence on everyone from Otis Redding to
The Rolling Stones. The recently restored Muscle Shoals
Sound Studio is a great way to experience the music that
was recorded there.
Davy Crockett Monument
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Fill up in Florence before hopping back on the Natchez
Trace – there are no gas stations along the actual
parkway. Drive the leisurely 50 miles-an-hour speed limit
back to Nashville, stopping off at natural wonders such
as Jackson Falls in Duck River or the Water Valley
Overlook in Santa Fe on your way.
DISTANCE
255 MILES
A Tennessee Music
Trail with a Funky Beat
DAY 1
Begin the journey in town at the ‘mother church
of country music,’ the Ryman Auditorium.
What once was the home of the Grand Ole
Opry was originally the Union Gospel Tabernacle
1892 Church. Take a tour of the intimate venue,
and then walk down the street to the Country
Music Hall of Fame.
PHOTO BY: INHAUSCREATIVE / GETTY IMAGES ©
Start in Nashville, known for its honky-tonks and banjo picking, and then head
east to Hendersonville, a surprising hotbed of country music activity. Circle to
the northwest, checking out eclectic, funky towns along the way. Head south
toward the state line to get a glimpse of the life of Loretta Lynn, and finish your
musical education by singing her classics on your way back to town.
Afterwards, head to United Record Pressing
where you can see vinyl records being pressed
and the ‘Motown Suite,’ where African American
artists were safely accommodated during the
Civil Rights movement.
Pop into Third Man Records, owned by Jack
White, to see an example of the next wave of
musicians making Nashville their home.
Ryman Auditorium
PHOTO BY: SEAN PAVONE / SHUTTERSTOCK ©
Head east out of town to Hendersonville, where
Johnny Cash and June Carter Cash lived from 1968
until their deaths in 2003. Hendersonville also has
a more modern celebrity it calls its own: mega-star
Taylor Swift moved here from Pennsylvania to begin
her career and attended Henderson High School.
Conway Twitty’s complex, Trinity Music City, USA,
(also known as ‘Twitty City’) is nearby, where you
can tour his former estate.
Did you know?
Trinity Music City is also the birthplace of
Country Music Television (CMT) and is
currently the home to Trinity Broadcasting
Network, a faith-based network.
From Hendersonville, head northwest towards
PHOTO BY: KENNSTILGER47 / SHUTTERSTOCK ©
Country Music Hall of Fame
Cross Plains, where Thomas Drugs is still
operating as a pharmacy and soda fountain. After
a burger and milkshake, hop in the car and head
west. Just outside of town is Carr’s Wild Horse
and Burro Adoption, which has been a haven for
horses and burros in need of rescue from federal
land out west since the 1980’s.
Continue west to Springfield, where many houses
downtown are on the National Historic Register.
Keep west to Adams, home of the infamous Bell
Witch Cave: urban legend has it that the ghost of
Kate Batts still haunts the cavern. Take a peek into
life in the early 19th century on Bell Farm, then
continue on to Clarksville.
Check into a bed and breakfast, such as the
Magnolia House, and dine downtown at one of
the historic restaurants, such as Blackhorse Pub.
Hazel Path Mansion in Hendersonville
PHOTO BY: JOEL EICHLER / GETTY IMAGES ©
PHOTO BY: DAVID P. SMITH / SHUTTERSTOCK ©
Loretta Lynn’s Mansion
DAY 2
Drive west and have breakfast at Kathy’s Kafé
in Indian Mound, where ‘country cooking and
tall tales’ are on order. Head south to Erin, an
Irish settler town that dates back to the railroad
heydays of the late 1800’s. There, stretch your legs
and take the two-mile pedestrian trail through the
old railroad bed.
Continue south to Hurricane Mills, home of
Loretta Lynn’s Ranch. Check out her plantation
home, see her ‘Crisco Kitchen’ and visit the Coal
Miner’s Daughter Museum. Stop into Cissie
Lynn’s Country Store and Music Barn (she’s the
country star’s daughter) to have a fried bologna
sandwich for lunch.
Follow Route 70 east toward Dickson, where
the quirky Ragan’s Furniture bills itself as, ‘Half
furniture, half museum, all friendly’ to check out
some local memorabilia. Hit the historic downtown
Charlotte Square for antiques and arts and
crafts, as well as the Old Train Depot. Get back
on the road and stuff yourself silly for dinner at
Carl’s Perfect Pig in White Bluff, where BBQ ribs
and banana pudding are most popular with locals
and visitors alike. Continue onward toward Music
City while listening to all the artists whose homes
you’ve now visited.
BBQ ribs and fixins’
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