Kuwait and dubai

DESTINATIONS
FOCUS ON
Kuwait and dubai
Issue
74
AUTUMN/WINTER
2015
LETTER
FROM THE
editor
DESTINATIONS
KELLY JP CLARKE
Editor, Destinations
Issue 74 Autumn/Winter 2015
Production team
Editor
Kelly JP Clarke
Sub-editor
Lisa Medved
Design and production
Production Centre of Excellence, The Hague, 1215951
Project Manager
Astrid uit den Bogaard
Contributors
Mary Ann Agoncillo, Aann Bhatia, Bharat Bhatia, Simran,
Kassia and Leo Caban-Sandhu, Kathinka Davis, Angus Dempster,
Sara Elzein, Marlies Erdman, Maria Fuenmayor,
Gautam Ganesh, Loreen Gordon, Craig Haldane,
Marion Heinerth, Pamela Hodgson, Amit Kar, Karen Lawson,
Christopher May, Walid Al-Nader, Deirdre O’Leary,
Steve Polson, Alex Simpson, Ian Turner and a special thanks to
Outpost Iraq Dubai and Outpost Kuwait
Contributing photographers
Mary Ann Agoncillo, Bharat Bhatia, Kathinka Davis, Marlies
Erdman, Maria Fuenmayor, Marion Heinerth, Pamela Hodgson,
Amr Hussein, Amit Kar, Karen Lawson, Deirdre O’Leary,
Alex Simpson, Sami Tawfiq, Ian Turner and Golf Dubai
2
Printer
De Groot Drukkerij bv, Goudriaan
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Cover image
"Colourful Spices at the Old Spices Souk in Deira" Amr Hussein
I remember pink taxis- bright, bubble-gum pink.
Had we flown into Candy Land on the red eye
from Cape Town? The stamp in my passport
assured me we were in Dubai. Two nights in
the capital of Middle Eastern luxury on our way
back to Perth. The driver of the colourful cab was
a pleasant and demure woman in a hijab who
explained that the pink taxis were for women and
their families, so I’m sure my husband caught a
few odd glances as he piled in the back!
Even though we arrived during the quiet,
reflective month of Ramadan, Dubai was a
wonderland. One of the children interviewed
for this issue said his first impression was that
Dubai is a “toy city”. Everything is shiny, bright
and new, like building blocks stacked sky-high
in the most ostentatious fashion. Although we
encountered some unexpected hitches like having
little access to food or water outside of the hotel
during daylight hours, we still managed to make
Dubai our playground.
“It is what you make it”, a colleague in Kuwait
said to me the other day and it really struck
a chord. You decide your destiny no matter
where you are in the world; whether in the heat
of a sticky Dubai summer during Ramadan or
behind a keyboard in The Hague, the next step
is up to you. Compiling my first issue, I was
both excited and nervous to create a magazine
on two locations that were almost entirely
foreign to me. Fortunately, the contributors
brought both Kuwait and Dubai to life: I can
smell the fresh Arabic bread wafting through
the souks of Kuwait City and feel the heat
boiling from the dunes on a trail run through
the desert outside Dubai. So here goes, a new
step for me and Destinations and one I hope
you’ll enjoy.
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Location Profile
Focus
KUwait
Kuwait is the only country in the world
with no natural water supply from lakes
or reservoirs.
Al-Noon is a celebration in Kuwait when
a baby gets their first tooth or takes their
first steps. Family and neighbours are
invited over and the mother throws sweets
and nuts from the roof down to the guests
standing in the courtyard below.
Focus on
kuwait and Dubai
FEATURES
5 Location Profile: Kuwait
6
Issue 74 Autumn/Winter 2015
Kuwait is known for its souks (markets),
frequented by locals and tourists alike.
OFFICIAL NAME: State of Kuwait
OUTPOST OFFICE: Kuwait City
POPULATION: 3.4 million;
60% of the population are foreigners
(Worldbank, 2013)
OFFICIAL LANGUAGE: Arabic,
but English is widely spoken
CURRENCY: Kuwaiti Dinar
INTERNATIONAL DIALLING CODE: +965
BORDERS WITH: Iraq and Saudi Arabia
NATIONAL FLOWER: Rhanterum
epapposum, locally known as Arfaj
Culture and People: The Key to Kuwait’s Success
8Diwaniyas
10 Paradise in Kuwait
13 Exquisite Drinking Fountains of Kuwait
14 Work, Life, Balanced
The world of camel racing was
revolutionised in Kuwait in 2006 when
they became the first country to use
remote-controlled robot jockeys.
16 Spoiled for Choice
18 Kuwaiti Break
20 A New Family Experience
22 Dubai Versus Kuwait
26 Location Profile: Dubai
Kuwait is one of the few ‘dry’ states in
the world, meaning alcohol is strictly
prohibited.
27 Dubai: The Untold Photo Diary
36 Toy City
40 Trail Running in Dubai
42 On Course to Dubai
45 Centre of the World
Outpost Kuwait is the latest addition to
the Outpost global network opening in
March 2015.
48 Raising Cultural Awareness with GlobeSmart
Kuwait has one-fifth of the world’s
oil reserves.
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Feature KUWAIT
KUWAIT
culture
and
people:
THE KEY TO KUWAIT’S SUCCESS
A WORD FROM THE COUNTRY CHAIR
My relationship with Kuwait long preceded my arrival
in the country. I had the chance to work closely with
Kuwaiti colleagues in my previous job based in Dubai.
I was always taken by the Kuwaitis sense of hospitality
and warmth, something I experienced first-hand when
I moved here.
During my time here, I have come to realise
that Kuwait is a hidden gem – a safe, relaxed,
family-friendly, multicultural Middle Eastern
country with a great quality of life, which seems
to suffer sometimes from an undeserved
reputation in comparison to some more
glamorous Gulf neighbours.
for the 21st Annual Cultural Season running
from October 2015 through to May 2016.
The Al-Yarmouk Centre will host everything from
music to theatre and films to cultural seminars and
lectures over this period. DAI also works closely
with embassies to showcase cultures from around
the world, creating a delightful experience for
everyone in the community. The emerging cultural
scene in Kuwait is set to expand in the coming
years with the Sheikh Abdullah Al Salem Cultural
Centre being constructed in the city, which will be
the largest museum in the world once completed
and include a Natural History Museum, a Science
Museum, a Museum of Islamic History, a Space
Museum and a new state-of-the-art Performing
Arts centre.
While there are certainly challenges adapting,
just like moving to any country, Kuwait is an
open and vibrant society, where locals are
sociable and welcoming to expatriates. It is
recognised as having a pleasant and multicultural atmosphere with a thriving and bustling
community. The country offers a good range of
recreational and social opportunities, from the
beautiful beaches and islands to the abundance
of excellent restaurants and world-class
shopping facilities.
One of the most important advantages of living
in Kuwait is being centrally located in the
Middle East. Dubai, Muscat and Cairo are all
approximately two hours flight away, while
Istanbul and many European cities are four to
five hours away. As a business traveller, this
allows me to connect easily to a number of
cities around the region and the world. And
when it’s time to relax, there are a number of
carriers flying into Kuwait so it’s easy to get
away for the weekend. The people are what really set Kuwait apart from
other countries I have lived in. Throughout its
history, Kuwait has been an important trading
hub and melting pot for people from different
backgrounds. This fostered an open culture and
democratic society centred on inviting hospitality
and the open mentality of Kuwaitis to hear new
ideas and discuss topical issues, which often
brings out their witty sense of humour.
From the vibrant democracy and right of free
speech clearly visible wherever you go, to the
energetic new businesses and innovations
emerging from young Kuwaitis, it is easy for a
foreigner like me to see why Kuwaitis take so
much pride in their country and heritage. It has
been a marvel to be part of the action and to
deal first-hand with Kuwaiti people who reflect
the character of this beautiful country. Kuwaiti
culture is the key, as Kuwaitis have long spread
their arts and culture throughout the region and
continue to do so today. n
One of my favourite institutions is Dar Al-Athar
Al-Islamiyyah (DAI), the most active and
established museum and cultural centre in Kuwait.
The recently opened Al-Yarmouk Cultural Centre
will ensure DAI’s activities are more diverse and
rich than ever before and will be the central hub
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Feature
Walid Al-Nader
Country Chair and General Manager
Shell Companies in Kuwait
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KUWAIT
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DIWANiyas
Kuwaiti houses often have a room or separate
hall called the Al-Diwaniya, a place where
people, usually men, can meet outside of working
hours to catch up on current events and share
news. Al-Diwaniyas provide guests with a direct
entrance to the house while maintaining the
privacy of the family. The diwaniyas include a
main lounge, called a diwan, where tea is on
offer from a ghori and coffee is served in a
dallah. Kuwaiti families often keep the main
doors of the diwaniyas open to show that guests
are welcome. Diwaniyas are an important part
of the social fabric in Kuwait, with many
important political and business decisions made
within their walls. Maria Fuenmayor, from
Outpost Kuwait, provided these photos from
an Al-Diwaniya in Kuwait City. n
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service we received on arrival, altogether
confirmed the unique hospitality this region
is known for. Living in temporary
accommodation can be stressful but this was
not the case in Kuwait. The hotel we stayed in
was excellent. Their superb amenities and
fantastic service took the stress away from us
during the transition. We were comfortable and
relaxed while concentrating on things we
needed to do, like finding a house and
familiarising ourselves in the city.
paradise
IN
kuwait
MARY ANN AGONCILLO
Mary Ann, a former office administrator, and her husband,
Louie, an HSE Manager for Kuwait Exploration and
Production, moved to Kuwait last year, leaving their adult
children back home in Canada. Previous postings for the
couple include various countries in Asia and the Middle
East and most recently, New Orleans and London.
10
We moved to Kuwait from Calgary in September
2014. Although arriving to 40°C temperatures
made us uncomfortable, it signalled the
beginning of our new adventure. We were
excited to experience Kuwait’s hospitality, warm
and sunny weather, long coastal waters, great
food, gold and shopping.
The smooth assistance at the airport, the friendly
car service and the warm and exceptional hotel
We found an apartment in a small, quiet building
away from the hustle and bustle of the city. It’s
only a 15-minute drive to Louie’s office in Ahmadi
and, as an added bonus, it has access to the
beach, something you can’t have in Calgary!
Passing the days on the veranda and delighting
in our boundless view of the ocean, the rising
and setting sun and moon, the fluffy, white clouds
painted on a bright blue sky and the white sand
beach reminds us how lucky we are to live here!
For us, this is paradise and we love it!
Whenever possible, we try local and regional
cuisine. We are regulars at the Fahaheel market
where we enjoy browsing the wide variety of fish
and the fresh produce they have. Kuwait’s open
markets, in particular, Souk Al-Moubarakiya
located in Kuwait City, are fantastic for finding
many interesting things all together in one place
and great for a taste of Kuwaiti culture. The stalls
are neatly arranged, selling local knick-knacks,
antiques, traditional costumes, clothes, carpets,
honey, spices, scented oils and even fruits, vegetables and fish. The inviting smell of freshly baked
Arabic bread is hard to resist so we always finish
with a meal in one of the delicious restaurants!
The Friday Market in Shuwaikh industrial area is
a place where one can easily spend a day going
through the array of items they sell, anything from
a needle to a refrigerator; you name it and
chances are, they have it. Across from the Friday
Market, there is also the Iranian Market that we
recently discovered. The stalls are awash with
complexly woven Persian rugs with beautiful
floral patterns and medieval-style chests,
with mother of pearl and other exquisite stones
intricately tiled into geometric patterns. u
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Fancy a drink? Elaborate drinking fountains
built in memory of deceased loved ones can
be found outside the great cement walls of
many homes in Kuwait City.
Iranian craftsmanship is world famous and the
detailed designs woven into the walnut and
rosewood sure do impress!
Kuwait is famous for its gold markets. Walking
through the glittering gold souks is like being in
a treasure trove with an enormous array of gold
jewellery mainly of 21K and 22K. If you are
looking to buy, be prepared to haggle for the
best price.
huge, sandy-coloured arches of the mall is truly
indulgent. We still have a lot to discover about
Kuwait and we do more each day. When our
posting is over, we will have many fond
memories to take with us back to Canada.
If I was asked whether I recommend Kuwait to
those considering foreign assignments, I would,
for all the reasons I’ve mentioned and for all the
other reasons we have yet to discover. n
EXQUISITE
Drinking Fountains OF KUWAIT
If you are looking to buy,
be prepared to haggle for
the best price
Kuwait is a shopping paradise, not only for its
markets but also the malls. The Avenues Mall has
everything you need from a grocery store to
high-street shopping and dining and the
underground parking is especially convenient in
the summer. If we want to chill out, we head to
Al Kout Mall which has an amazing view of the
marina. Sitting back with a cup of coffee or
richly spiced Kuwaiti tea and watching the
spectacular musical fountains, set against the
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KUWAIT
activities like football, tennis, yoga and Zumba
as well as a gym, pool and of course the beach
which we all love! Once we’ve exhausted
ourselves at the club, there are plenty of
restaurants nearby to enjoy a lovely meal
together. Convenience is an art here in Kuwait
and anything imaginable can be delivered to the
comfort of your home (including a cafe
macchiato and home computer repairs). Missing
friends and family is the only regret I sometimes
have about being in Kuwait, but I have sufficient
holidays and I balance my busy life with things
that give me energy, like sports at the club and
catching up with friends.
MARLIES ERDMAN
Work, Life, Balanced
Marlies Erdman, a Learning Manager for Shell Kuwait,
arrived in Kuwait in April 2012 with her two children,
Fares, aged 12, and Safia, aged 10. Here she talks about
the perks of life in Kuwait.
I had no reservations about taking a job in
Kuwait, despite some colleagues in Europe
incorrectly assuming that as a woman, I would
have to wear the hijab and be prohibited from
driving. Raising two pre-teens and working full
time can be hectic, and although it’s not
customary to meet many single mums in Kuwait,
my two children, and I have found life here very
comfortable.
Having studied Arabic and Middle Eastern
language and culture at university, I am very
interested in Kuwaiti life. Because Kuwait is not a
well-known tourist destination, word of mouth is
the best way to find things to do. There are a few
helpful blogs (www.248AM.com and http://
www.ladieswhodolunchinkuwait.blogspot.com/)
which I visit regularly. The Mubarakiya souk is a
culturally rich outing with different sections for
gold, exotic perfumes, luxurious fabric and
traditional clothes. I can wander the halls for
hours and finish with an authentic meal at one of
the local grill restaurants. I would also
recommend visiting “The House of Mirrors”,
where mirrors, in-laid in white cement, adorn the
house, both inside and out, and the Tareq Rajab
Museum has an impressive collection of old,
silver ethnic jewellery from 15 different countries.
Feature
Fares and Safia have both joined scouting,
introducing us to a different way of life in Kuwait.
There is the animal shelter in Wafra oasis (on the
Saudi border) where we walk the dogs, brush the
cats and feed the donkeys. Sometimes we come
across more exotic animals like baboons, a flying
squirrel and even a hyena! We help to donate food
to low income workers; this is where my truck comes
in very handy, transporting up to 700 kilos of food.
Hiking and camping in the desert provides a nice
get away from the city, especially during winter
months; you can quad bike, learn survival skills and
even roast marshmallows on the open camp fire!
And don’t miss the National and Liberation Days
of Kuwait celebrated every February, when the
Gulf Road in Kuwait City turns into a huge water
gun battle park! Even Gulf neighbours from Saudi
Arabia and Qatar visit the country to participate
in this epically wet tradition. People line the street
for approximately 20 kilometres, armed with
water guns and water balloons. As the cars drive
up and down (at least a two hour undertaking),
those on the street try to target people inside the
car through small cracks in their windows. The
cars have plenty of ammunition as well, and
quickly open their windows to barrage the crowd
with water.
Raising children as a working, single parent is a
tough balancing act no matter where you are. In
Kuwait, I am lucky to have a life that is well
balanced for Fares, Safia and me. n
Kuwait is a small country, about half the size of
the Netherlands, so it’s easy to get around. We
live in a residential area close to Kuwait City and
the kid’s school, where most of their social and
sport activities are. I commute to Al-Ahmadi for
work, a 30-60 minute drive depending on
traffic. My working hours are family-friendly; I
come home one hour after the kids so we get to
spent lots of quality family time in the afternoon.
There is a very active sports club close by with
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Feature KUWAIT
KUWAIT
spoiled
for
choice
PAMELA HODGSON
Pamela and her husband, Stephen, who is Finance
Manager for Kuwait, moved to the country in June
2013. Pamela previously worked as a manager in Social
Services in Aberdeen but since leaving in 2005, she and
Stephen have enjoyed postings in Copenhagen, The
Hague, Dubai and now Kuwait. They both share a passion
for food and travel. In March 2015, Pamela helped to
start up Outpost Kuwait with Maria Fuenmayor, which
has added a new dimension to her stay and given her the
opportunity to meet some fantastic people! Here Pamela
discusses the food scene in Kuwait.
“Where can I find nice eateries and good food?”
is always my first question as a foodie when I
arrive at a new destination. After more than two
years in Kuwait, I can honestly say that I am
pleasantly surprised with the “eating out
experience”. Whether it is a quick kubus (a type of
16
shawarma) from the small street shops or a
Michelin-style gourmet meal, in Kuwait the choice
is endless. There is a huge western influence on
food, resulting in many familiar restaurant chains
and fast food, which we try to avoid as much as
possible in favour of the authentic local restaurants.
Initially it took some time, but now we have found
several restaurants that we love. During the cooler
months when it’s not necessary to jump from
air-conditioning to air-conditioning, we love to
walk around the area of Salmiya where we live.
It’s amazing what you can find in the small
backstreets! There are a few hidden gems where
we have become regulars, one of which is a small
and very healthy café called Gia. Everything is
freshly made that day! Your mouth will water for
the bright green frika (green spelt) salad, the
vibrant beetroot salad sprinkled with fresh mint,
the smoky, grilled meats, fish and chicken. Their
coffee is divine, the fresh-pressed juice is delicious,
and don’t pass on their fresh-baked white
chocolate and strawberry cheesecake! Perhaps
now is a good time to mention that portion sizes in
Kuwait are huge and it is extremely easy to put on
the pounds here, so we try to be careful!
We are not fussy eaters and love to try new things,
but we particularly like Lebanese or in fact, any
Arabic fare. The strangest things that we have
eaten here were fried sheep’s brain and boiled
sheep’s tongue; I was sceptical at first, but when
I got over the initial idea of what it was, it was
delicious! My husband, not a lover of aubergines,
now orders babaganoush and moutabal (both
aubergine dishes) at every Arabic restaurant, so
his phobia has been cured with the rich flavours of
Kuwait and the Middle East!
If you don’t mind cellophane table cloths and lots
of noise, Souk Mubarakyia is a great place to
experience the local food culture. We noticed a
lot of locals eating there, so we thought it was a
great opportunity for authentic Kuwaiti fare!
Some eateries have no menu and it’s a case of
asking what is fresh. For a relatively inexpensive
price, we enjoyed excellent, grilled local fish and
watched them bake fresh bread; it was one of the
best lunches we have ever had. After lunch,
there's an opportunity to take in the souk’s market
stalls; teeming with fresh fish, meat and colourful
fruit and vegetables, alongside all the other
goods on sale.
Feature
have a sweet tooth, then Kuwait is the perfect
place for you. The cafes, bakeries, sweet shops
and ice cream parlours are stacked with goodies
that will certainly entice!
Cooking at home is also a joy. There is a
wonderful fish market at Sharq where they bring in
fish caught that morning. You can count on plenty
of local, delicious fish and the month of August
brings the most scrumptious prawns. The fish here
is some of the best we have had, particularly
zuabadi, hammour and shrimps. Supermarkets in
Kuwait stock a good range of local produce,
grown on the farms in Wafra, as well as a great
selection of international fare. Whatever your taste
buds desire, Kuwait will definitely have something
for you! Alekom bil afia! (Happy eating!) n
New restaurants are appearing everywhere.
Arrabella, a recently opened restaurant complex
on the Gulf Road, houses many well-known
eateries, though we avoid it at the weekend
because parking the car is nearly impossible! In
the malls (of which there are many), there is a
good range of mainly chain restaurants, cafes and
delicatessens. These are great places to sit and
enjoy a coffee or grab a bite to eat and watch the
world go by. My favourite is Marina Crescent at
the Marina Mall where you can sit outside
(weather permitting) and dream about which yacht
in the marina you’d like to have! For those who
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Whilst growing up, Alex Simpson, an LNG
Performance Manager based in The Hague,
spent many holidays in Kuwait with his parents.
He shares some special memories and tips on
Kuwait with us.
parties, boat tours, coffee
mornings and book clubs.
There is always plenty of
gossip to share and newbies
to meet. The embassies
celebrate national days with
great fanfare and I have
especially fond memories of the
black tie events like Scottish Burn’s
Night, where I enjoyed the poetry
reading, haggis and good cheer
at the British Embassy.
KUWAITI
BREAK
Kuwaiti people are hugely warm and generous,
often inviting guests to their houses or to their tents
in the desert. I recall visiting the private zoo at the
farm of a Kuwaiti man. Amongst others, he had
beautiful quails and flirty-eyed camels. He offered
me a bowl of creamy fresh goat’s milk with
almonds and honey. The milk was still warm from
the doe’s belly and as thick as whipped cream.
ALEX SIMPSON
I always looked forward to visiting my parents in
Kuwait. They lived there for 18 years and I’d
usually go home during the Christmas and Easter
periods. Kuwait is a great place to socialize,
relax and shop.
returning a favour; by way of a gift or an
invitation to a friend’s house and vice versa.
My parents are now retired in Ireland and they
often remark that they are glad to have some
evenings free during the week!
Socially speaking, it just never stopped; the house
was often abuzz with frenzied activity ahead of a
gathering or clothing was flying around as outfits
were put together for a festival. In Kuwait,
customarily you are either giving a favour or
Networks like the British Ladies Society,
International Women’s Group and Damas OLEK
(Latin American and Spanish Ladies in Kuwait)
are extremely active in Kuwait and attendance
levels are high for their events like holiday
18
I’d often spend the day doing some sport or
fitness, like swimming with the Kuwait Masters or
a session at the gym at either the Marina Hotel or
the Crowne Plaza. Facilities are excellent and the
instruction is world class. You don’t often hear
about Kuwaiti Olympians, but based on the
facilities that I have seen, sporty people can
thrive in Kuwait. I often played nine or 18 holes
of golf at the Sahara Club. They regularly host
competitions and I won a top-quality putter
there once!
Kuwait has a merchant past and many Kuwaitis
earn a living as independent traders, hence their
affinity for bartering and negotiation. There are
regular trade fairs held in Kuwait and I used to
especially like the perfume exhibition, where one
could purchase the best Yemeni and Omani
honeys and sandalwood and find enormous
bags of crushed turmeric, paprika and cumin and
a dozen varieties of saffron. The traders sell very
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rare and specific perfumed oils, such as white
peach blossom or lily of the valley. Who needs
Duty Free?
A couple of years ago when I started to look for
an engagement ring, I visited Amsterdam and
Antwerp but was disappointed with the options
I found because I had set my mind upon a
coloured stone rather than a diamond. Luckily,
my father knows reputable gem traders in Kuwait
so I decided to make a special trip with him to
search out the jewel. Red is the colour of love and
passion so I purchased a gorgeous ruby ring with
which to propose to my beloved. The ruby was
certified and valued back in the Netherlands and
I was delighted to find the ring to be worth
significantly more than the purchase price. I was
even more delight that she said, “Yes”!
At the Friday market, one can find any manner of
trinkets, carpets and animals so I have sent my
nephews out looking for Aladdin’s lamp more
than once! For cultural activities, I would
recommend the Great Mosque, Daar Al Athar Al
Salmiya which houses a collection of jewels and
artefacts belonging to the Al Sabah family and
the beautiful Tareq Rajab Museum of Art and
Calligraphy, which is recognised by UNESCO.
The Arab Fund Building is home to the best
example of handcrafts from all over the Middle
East and even the car park is a jewel of
architecture. The “House of Mirrors”, built by an
Italian artist Lydia Kattan who is married to a
Kuwaiti artist, was originally intended to cover
and prevent the spread of termites. Now, every
inch of the house is gilded in pieces of mirrors,
resulting in an amazing labyrinth of rooms with
astrology themes.
I have many fond memories of Kuwait. It is yet to
become a major tourist destination for people
visiting the Middle East but perhaps that is part
of its charm. n
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situation, there are a number of festive private
parties and get-togethers to participate in.
MARION HEINERTH
A New family experience
Marion joined her husband Mirco, a Principal Production
Technologist in Kuwait, one year after his arrival in October
2010. Leaving her job as a master goldsmith and teacher
in Bavaria, Germany, Marion discusses the different life
she leads now raising a young family in Kuwait.
When I moved to Kuwait in October 2011, I was
30 weeks pregnant with our first child. It was my
first experience of living abroad, living together
with my husband and starting a family. My husband moved to Kuwait one year before I
did. Having visited Kuwait and the Middle East
on several occasions before my move, I had
some idea what it would be like to live there.
Leading up to my move, we looked at a number
of apartments and houses and we visited
several hospitals in preparation for the
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impending birth. I was excited to start this new
life, although saying goodbye to my family,
friends and my job was not easy.
There is a great love for children in Kuwait, and in
fact, the whole of the Middle East. When Kuwaiti
people see children, especially small ones, they
always smile; sometimes they even look in their
handbags and pockets for a small treat for them!
Children are always cherished here. Kuwaitis
would never comment on how you raise your
children or stop them from doing something, like
you may encounter in other parts of the world.
If your children are up late or if they cry, locals
are always sympathetic and helpful; this is one
of the reasons why we enjoy living in this part
of the world.
Kuwait is a great location to start a family or to
raise small children. As they grow older however,
it may become more difficult for western kids
because of cultural differences. It seems
entertainment options are a bit limited for
teenagers. Certain things that teenagers can do
in western countries, like going out dancing are
not possible, except in a private setting. Children,
especially girls, grow up more protected than in
Europe and are generally segregated.
Kuwait doesn’t offer a breadth of touristic
activities or grand events like in Dubai, but this
doesn´t mean that there is no cultural life. There
are occasional classical or jazz concerts, theatre
performances, fairs and exhibitions, but they are
usually on a small scale so you need to look out
for them. Kuwait is one of the few “dry” countries
worldwide, so if you are invited for an embassy
party, you may appreciate that glass of wine or
beer even more! Because the expat community is
very tight-knit and everyone is in the same
Except for the summer months, the weather in
Kuwait is very family friendly. Most expat
families are quite active and plan activities to
keep themselves entertained year-round. The
winters are mild and we like to do a lot of things
outdoors, like barbecues in the desert with
friends and little hiking tours through the dunes.
There are many playgrounds close by where we
take the children to play outside. In autumn and
spring, the sky is dotted with big colourful kites
along the beaches. Walking barefoot in the sand
and splashing in the surf or renting a jet ski for
some fun on the water are great beach activities
with the children. Sadly, the beaches are not as
clean and tidy as you might expect; however,
they are cleaner further away from the city, like
Al-Khiran, which is about an hour’s drive south
of Kuwait City. It’s the perfect place for a lot of
water fun, like kite and wind surfing, and
swimming in the sea. Just remember an umbrella
to protect against the sun!
Now, four years later, our family has grown more
than we imagined. Martha, our eldest is now
almost four years old and she has also gained a
younger brother, Moritz, who is two. At the end of
October we are expecting another addition to the
family. Exciting times in Kuwait, once again! n
21
DUBAI
KUWAIT
KUWAIT
Dubai
Kuwait
DUBAI
versus
KATHINKA DAVIS
Kathinka, a Dutch national, and her English husband
Gerard, General Manager for Middle East & JV, were
first posted to Dubai in 1999. They have lived in the
Netherlands and the UK, as well as many expatriate
postings in the Middle East: two in Oman, three in
Dubai and one in Kuwait. Here, Kathinka compares life
in Dubai to life in Kuwait.
Having recently lived in both Dubai and Kuwait,
I was asked to sum up what it’s like to live in these
locations and reflect on the differences between
life in the two places - and there are definitely
some differences!
When my husband applied for the job in Kuwait,
we didn’t really do our “homework” very well.
We thought it couldn’t be too different from other
Gulf countries. We had lived in Oman for many
years and were living in Dubai at that time, but we
came to learn that there were indeed some real
differences. So here we go - a comparison
between Dubai and Kuwait in a nutshell.
As you know, Dubai is a mega modern city, which
has experienced an immense property boom in
22
recent decades. And what a city it has become!
Kuwait on the other hand, has had a very different
history. The country, which is one of the richest oil
states in the region, was severely damaged
during the Iraq invasion. Since then, Kuwait City
has been rebuilt - a major undertaking - but it is
nowhere near as impressive as Dubai. Yes, it
has some amazingly high towers and glitzy
shopping malls, but you get the sense that
overall, Kuwaitis prefer to show their wealth in
different ways.
Going out in Dubai for dinner or drinks is as
cosmopolitan as you can get. You could eat out
every day for a whole year in different restaurants
and you still wouldn’t have covered all of them.
Sometimes I personally find this abundance of
choice in Dubai to be a bit much. It feels like all
the restaurants are trying to out-do each other!
But there is certainly plenty to choose from.
Of course there are restaurants in Kuwait, but
there are mainly three choices of food: Indian,
Lebanese/Arabic or fast food. I have honestly
never seen so many hamburger outlets in my life.
These vary from the standard western fast food
chains to more upmarket restaurants. But they all u
23
DUBAI
KUWAIT
KUWAIT
traffic jams have become more common in Dubai.
In Kuwait drivers take a liberal approach towards
obeying road regulations, which can make
driving a challenge. One thing I didn’t know
before I moved to Kuwait is that women are not
allowed to drive unless they have a job or school
age children. I did manage to drive, but not very
much. I sold my car after four years in Kuwait with
a mere 9,000 kilometres on the clock!
serve mainly hamburgers - in every shape and
size. Kuwaitis also love coffee, so coffee bars are
very popular, with a variety of creamy coffee
offerings available all over the city.
The way food is served in Kuwait took some
getting used to. Dishes are brought to the table
whenever they are ready. I could be served my
soup while somebody else at the table has their
main course, followed by their starter. Plates are
cleared away as soon as you put your spoon
down, so you can go to a restaurant, eat a
three-course dinner and be “done and dusted”
within half an hour. This was new to me as I am
used to the idea of a meal being a social event.
Middle Eastern countries are generally known for
their souk heritage, but the impression I get in
Dubai is that everything is targeted at tourists,
which is a shame. Kuwaiti souks however, were a
revelation to me. Kuwait has truly authentic souks,
where people go to buy everything from fish and
vegetables to pots and pans and much more.
Many of the stall keepers are from Iran and they
enjoy sharing a super sweet cup of tea and
having a chat with you as you make your
purchases. You can find the most amazing
materials in the fabric souk, which is indoors and
has air conditioning, making shopping in this
particular souk a real pleasure. The fish souk is
24
truly a lovely building which in my opinion, takes
one back to beautiful 1930s architecture. I
thoroughly loved the souks. I couldn’t find any old
furniture or jewellery as they all got destroyed
during the war or were thrown away. While I was
disappointed at the loss of these old treasures,
locals take a different approach, preferring to
look to the future.
Locals in Dubai do not generally interact with the
rising number of foreigners. To me, I could be
anywhere in the world when I look around Dubai,
as there are lots of tourists and expats. Living in
Dubai, you become one of the millions - which
personally I don’t really like. Perhaps this is why
I loved Kuwait so much! There are hardly any
expats compared to Dubai and it was wonderful
to have proper interactions with the locals. People
in Kuwait enjoy talking to you. They ask where
you are from, why you came to Kuwait, how you
like the place…etc. This is really nice because you
feel as though you learn more about the country.
Many of the shopkeepers do not speak fluent
English and I hate to say my Arabic isn’t too
great either, so this made talking to people very
amusing. I found the people in Kuwait truly
helpful and friendly.
There is a lot to see and do in and around
Dubai. You can explore other interesting
locations like Abu Dhabi, Sharjah and Ajman
and have the option to visit animal parks, water
parks, huge malls and much more. You can also
drive across the border to Oman and explore
places like Musandam and see the dolphins. By
contrast, there is a lot less to do in Kuwait. I had
not realised that Kuwait City is pretty much the
centre of everything with very little else around
it. Driving to neighbouring countries isn’t really
an easy option as you need entry visas to both
Iraq and Saudi Arabia. The Kuwaiti desert is less
of an attraction than in other Gulf locations I’ve
seen. It serves as an escape for locals who
spend several weeks living on camps sites in the
desert during the winter period between
October and March. Sadly, rubbish can often
get left behind when the temperature rises and
they return to the city. Kuwait does have nice
DUBAI
shopping malls that are certainly on a par with
Dubai. My favourite is The Avenues, a very nice
mall with all the European high street stores. But
if visiting the malls becomes your main source of
entertainment, then it can leave you wishing for
other distractions.
The weather in Kuwait is fantastic, even during
the extremely hot summer months when
temperatures soar; it’s a dry heat that be
tolerated whereas in Dubai, it is very humid in
the summer. Winters in Kuwait are lovely. It gets
cold enough to need warm attire but you still
have bright blue skies. I believe it would be nicer
for tourists to come to Kuwait than to Dubai as
far as the weather is concerned but for the
moment, Dubai has a better set up for tourism
than Kuwait does. Who knows if this may
change in the near future as new, luxurious
hotels are being built in Kuwait all the time?
If you ask me which I prefer, I would have to
say Kuwait. Although I initially found it to be a
tough posting, having moved there from Dubai,
I eventually I preferred my Kuwaiti experience. It
was a much more well rounded expat experience
and I felt more welcomed there than in Dubai.
Plus, there is always the option to jump on a
cheap airline to make a weekend trip to Dubai for
a taste of glitz and glamour! n
Driving in both countries is an experience.
With an increasing number of cars on the roads,
25
Location Profile
DUBAI
DUBAI
COUNTRY: United Arab Emirates or UAE;
Dubai is one of seven states within the UAE
CAPITAL: Abu Dhabi
LARGEST CITY: Dubai
OUTPOST OFFICES: Dubai and Abu Dhabi
POPULATION: 9.3 million; only 17% are
Emirati (Worldbank, 2013)
OFFICIAL LANGUAGE: Arabic, but English
is widely spoken
CURRENCY: UAE dirham (AED)
INTERNATIONAL DIALLING CODE: +971
BORDERS WITH: Oman, Saudi Arabia and
Qatar (though this border is in dispute
with the Saudis)
Earlier this year, Outpost Iraq and Outpost
Dubai combined their services to become
Outpost Iraq Dubai, based in Dubai.
The amount of sand required to construct
the artificial Palm Islands could fill 2.5
Empire State Buildings.
During Ramadan, Burj Khalifa residents on
the highest floors wait longer to break their
fast than those on the ground because
they can see the sun for longer!
In 2013, Dubai saw US $70 billion worth
of gold, 40% of the market, physically
traded within its borders. That gold
weighed 2,250 tonnes or the equivalent
of 354 male African elephants!
26
n
Dubai’s police fleet includes luxury sports
cars like Ferraris, Lamborghinis and an
Aston Martin- pretty classy!
Photography
OLD SAILOR
Not all the boats at Dubai Creek have
turned to tourism or leisure. Even
today, you can still see large merchant
vessels here, running regional trade
routes. Men like this old sailor, often
operate and live onboard these boats.
They are successors of the mariners
whose early efforts gave this city its
first commercial impulse.
There is no income tax in Dubai.
DUBAI:
The Untold Photo Diary
AMIT KAR
Amit is a global nomad who has lived in the US, India the UK, Saudi Arabia,
Oman, Nigeria, Singapore and Indonesia. In April 2013 he moved to Dubai
with his wife Claire, an Outpost team member, and their two sons, Zach,
aged nine, and Rafi, aged five. Photography is Amit’s passion and here he
presents a photo essay on a different side of Dubai. u
27
Photography
DUBAI
DUBAI
Photography
SPICE DUDES
The souks are small but have a warm, old-worldly
appeal, especially in late afternoon light. The shop keepers
have a palpable “throw-back” attitude and charm.
Early last year I was in Houston, chatting idly with a taxi
driver, and he asked me where I live. When I told him I live in
Dubai, he got very excited and told me about a documentary
he’d seen on the construction of the Burj Khalifa. Only a few
years prior, there would have been little chance of a cabbie in
Texas knowing anything about Dubai. I've had many similar
conversations all around the world. Dubai has become a
global phenomenon recently and rightly so, as the scale of
what has been achieved here in a generation is simply
astonishing. For most people, this is the only Dubai story they
know; the one about grand ambition exhibited in indoor ski
slopes, the world’s tallest building, the finest hotels and
ubiquitous luxury. This is only part of the story though, and to
come to Dubai and experience only the shiny, new stuff is to
miss out on much of the city’s unique character. In these
pictures, I have tried to show another side of Dubai, one
which is closer to the history and soul of this amazing city.
28
29
Photography
DUBAI
DUBAI
FISH HEADS
Photography
Photography
Lizzy de Klein, aged seven
Before it became a trading
hub,Netherlands,
business in Dubai
from the
mainly focused on pearling
andtofishing.
The old fish
learning
play baseball
market in Deira is stillinworth
a
trip
but
perhaps
not so
Houston.
much for these guys!
CHICKEN ROASTER
Dubai is a culinary wonderland and the street food
is as much a part of the feast as the celebrity chef
restaurants. This guy does a mean roast chicken but
make sure you try the shawarma as well.
SATWA SCRUM
Dubai may not be as cosmopolitan as London, New
York or Tokyo yet, but as a modern melting pot it has
no equal. This diverse scrum of people is a typical
streetcorner scene in Satwa on a Friday night.
Kooper Wright, aged 10 from Australia, at
Everland Resort Seoul, South Korea.
30
31
Photography
DUBAI
DUBAI
Photography
Photography
SEPAK TAKRAW
Dubai is an active city; people bring their traditional sports and games from all over the
world. Here we see two Filipino teams playing Sepak Takraw, an acrobatic volleyball-like
game in which a rattan ball must be hit only with the hands and feet.
CREEKSIDE COUPLE
Dozens of dhows (traditional wooden sea-faring boats) are tied up alongside the Creek.
Many, now in use for sight-seeing or as floating restaurants, are suitably dolled-up. As the
sun goes down, they make for a beautiful shot.
HOWZAT?!
South Asians are by far the largest ethnic community
in Dubai. So it shouldn’t surprise anyone that on a
weekend afternoon just about any open space is being
used for a spot of cricket. These boys have found a
patch of grass in an older part of town called Bur Dubai.
32
33
Photography
DUBAI
DUBAI
Photography
OLD & NEW
The new hasn’t completely replaced the old yet; somehow
this ramshackle dwelling remains within a stone’s throw of
the skyscrapers on Sheikh Zayed Road.
CREEK GULLS
The river taxi in this shot, known as an abra, may have
a few tourists onboard but most passengers are riding
it as part of their daily commute. At a cost of only one
Dirham (about 27 US cents), why go any other way?
On the right side of the picture is Al Bastakiya, a historic
district where merchants from Iran settled.
34
35
Feature
DUBAI
DUBAI
Toy City
Name
Aann Bhatia
Age
8
Feature
Feature
Born in Delhi, India
Lives in Dubai, UAE
Claire Kar, Welcoming Coordinator for Outpost
Iraq Dubai, asked seven kids what it’s like to
live in Dubai. This is what she found.
Name
Sara Elzein
Age
9
Born in Muscat, Oman
Name
Angus Dempster
Age
9
Lives in Dubai, UAE
What is your favourite local food?
Born in Edinburgh, Scotland
Lives in Dubai, UAE
What is your favourite local food?
My favourite food is Biryani, a mixed rice dish.
What is your favourite local food?
What sports/hobbies do you play or do?
Arabic bread and hummus.
I play rugby and football.
What sports/hobbies do you play or do?
My favourite sport is rugby and I play in the
forwards for the Arabian Knights. I also like
football and golf and one of my favourite
hobbies is playing with my loom bands.
Where do you go to school? What’s it like?
I have just started at Foremarke in Dubai and I
love it. I have made lots of new friends and a
few of my rugby team mates go there as well.
What do you like and dislike about Dubai?
I like that all my friends live here and I love the
waterparks. I dislike the heat!
Describe what your parent does for a living
at Shell (without asking them).
My daddy goes to Iraq however I’m not sure
what he does. I know he is an engineer.
36
Where do you go to school? What’s it like?
Nord Anglia School; it’s like my old school.
What is your ideal career choice?
I would love to be an inventor.
What are your favourite words in your
native language (and the meaning)?
In Scotland, we speak English but there
are some funny Scottish words like Ma
Laddie which means My Boy, Dinnae
which means don’t and Bonce which
means head.
Tell me about your first thoughts on Dubai.
I thought it was very hot but the pool in our
compound was very cool. I also thought the
Burj Khalifa was amazing.
What do you like and dislike about Dubai?
I like that we have a house and I dislike that in
the garden there is not enough space for shade.
Describe what your parent does for a living
at Shell (without asking them).
I think he sails on ships.
What is your ideal career choice?
My choice is to fly an aeroplane.
What are your favourite words in your
native language (and the meaning)?
My favourite word is Billy which means cat.
Tell me about your first thoughts on Dubai.
I didn’t know it will be really hot and that most
of the roads are motorways.
Falafel
What sports/hobbies do you play or do?
Basketball
Where do you go to school? What’s it like?
American School of Dubai. It is like a second
home.
What do you like and dislike about Dubai?
I like the location of our house; it’s near the
mall and my school.
Describe what your parent does for a living
at Shell (without asking them).
My dad travels a lot so I don’t get to see him
as much as other kids.
What is your ideal career choice?
A pro drummer.
What are your favourite words in your
native language (and the meaning)?
In the US, y'all means you all. In Arabic,
Azrak means blue.
Tell me about your first thoughts on Dubai.
It was very busy with lots to do.
37
Feature
Feature
DUBAI
DUBAI
Name
Gautam Ganesh
Age
13
Names Simran, Kassia and Léo CabanSandhu
Age
Born in India
Feature
4
Born in India
Lives in Dubai, UAE
Live in Dubai, UAE
What is your favourite local food?
Hummus with Kuboos (Arabic bread), Falafel
What sports/hobbies do you play or do?
Basketball, Tennis, Cricket, Football, Painting,
Photography
Where do you go to school? What’s it like?
Jumeirah College. It’s a multicultural
environment with good teachers and awesome
extracurricular activities.
What do you like and dislike about Dubai?
I like the safety, architecture, Sheikh
Mohammed, the beaches and Bounce Dubai,
Ski Dubai, the Autodrome and the Skate Park.
I dislike peak summer heat.
Describe what your parent does for a living
at Shell (without asking them).
Meetings, extract oil from Iraq and Saudi,
travel and maths.
What is your ideal career choice?
World famous footballer and cricketer
What are your favourite words in your
native language (and the meaning)?
Diwali means row of lights (It is our festival) in
India and dada/dadi, which means paternal
grandparents.
Tell me about your first thoughts on Dubai.
What is your favourite local food?
Hummus and mutabal (eggplant dip), “miam
miam” (yummy)
What sports/hobbies do you play or do?
In the morning, we make sand castles on the
beach and in the afternoon we go sledging at
Ski Dubai, “youhouu!”
Where do you go to school? What’s it like?
The Children’s Garden school. It’s a very nice
school where half of the classes are in English
and the other half in French.
What do you like and dislike about Dubai?
We love it all, nice weather, friends from all over
the world and indoor play areas in the malls.
Describe what your parent does for a living
at Shell (without asking them)?
Hmmmm…
What is your ideal career choice?
Astronauts, we want to explore the moon!
What are your favourite words in your
native language (and the meaning)?
J'aime le chocolat (I love chocolate).
Tell me about your first thoughts on Dubai.
We were living in India before. It’s quite different
here, but at the same time almost same same.
It’s like a toy city – everything is shiny and new.
There are beautiful beaches and it is very, very
active, even at midnight!
Gautam Ganesh
38
39
Feature
DUBAI
DUBAI
Feature
(Jebel Maleihah) offers some of the most
spectacular natural beauty you will find in the
UAE. You can run while enjoying in the breathtaking scenery, climbing dunes and ancient rock
formations, appreciating the desert wildflowers
and spotting desert animals. There is no need for
special equipment, just a good set of running
gear, sturdy trail runners and drink bottles or
hydration backpacks, whichever you prefer.
Deirdre O’Leary, a Canadian from Nova Scotia, has
enjoyed running from a young age. After moving to
Dubai, she took up long-distance running in the UAE
in 2011 and has found it to be a fabulous way to
explore new places, train for other sports and spend
time with friends.
DEIRDRE O'LEARY
Trail running provides an escape from city life,
camaraderie and inspiring views to distract you
from all the footwork. Located close to the border
of the famously beautiful mountains and deserts of
Oman, Dubai has fabulous mountain trails to
explore and a sea of stunning sand dunes to enjoy.
Although Dubai is home to a huge running
community, with several long-established running
clubs, these clubs are mainly devoted to road
events. There was no organisation dedicated to
trail running until 2012 when Dubai Trail Runners
was established to take advantage of the nearby
Hajar Mountain range. Intrigued by this
opportunity, I made the change from pounding
the pavement to exploring a wilder side of the
United Arab Emirates.
40
Trail Running in dubai
The Hajar Mountains are about a one-hour drive
from Dubai city. Running through them is like
entering another world of moonscape rock
formations and rolling sand dunes, dotted with
date farms and camels roaming freely. Sunrises
are magnificent with rich, glorious colours
stretching across the sky. The temperature and
humidity are significantly lower than in the city,
which is especially helpful in summer so that
we can keep running during the warmest
months and avoid the city’s extreme heat of
over 40°C.
Thanks to the hospitality of local mountain
communities, we top up our supplies en route
with cold water. We typically carry between two
and four litres each, along with food and safety
provisions. The length of each run is varied
according to runners’ abilities, but normally falls
anywhere from 10 to 45 kilometres. We always
run in groups for safety.
Trail running through desert landscapes has
become an iconic sport due to famous footraces
across the world’s largest deserts. The Marathon
des Sables, for example, is now in its twenty-eighth
year and is considered one of the most gruelling
multi-stage adventure races to cross the Sahara.
The 4 Deserts Race Series is another annual event,
made up of a series of four 250-kilometre footraces across deserts around the world, including
the Gobi in China, Chile’s Atacama, the Sahara in
Egypt and Antarctica. Numerous smaller races,
equally as challenging and enjoyable, have turned
trail running into an extremely popular sport.
The desert around Dubai is an easy 45-minute
drive from the city. The area around Fossil Rock
The trail running scene evolved even further in
2013 with the establishment of Urban-Ultra, an
organisation designed to bring trail-running
events and other related sports to our back
garden in the UAE. My goal for this season is to
complete the Urban-Ultra Hajar 100, a stunning
100-kilometre trail that runs along jeep tracks,
through mountain passes and over sand dunes
in nearby Ras al-Khaimah. Many of UrbanUltra’s events also aim to benefit the local and
wider communities, with funds being raised to
support a variety of charities.
Running for charity helps me focus on my goals,
especially when it gets challenging out on the
trail. With a few like-minded friends, I cofounded a charity called the “7 Emirates Run”,
which involves running through all seven
Emirates of the UAE. The 575-kilometre route
takes 12 days and involves running through
cities, deserts, mountains and beaches, on
paved roads, gravel and sand. It is run as a solo
event or as part of a relay. Our objective was to
help children with leg amputations or deformities
to receive the prosthetic limbs they needed to
improve the quality of their lives. With the
support of our work colleagues and families,
we raised 1m dirhams in 2014 and achieved
our mission to run “to help children back on
their feet”.
Trail running around Dubai is peaceful and
inspiring. It connects us to the communities all
over the UAE. Join us, run easy and enjoy! n
41
Feature
DUBAI
ON
Feature
course TO Dubai
The following introduction is based on interviews
given to Outpost Iraq Dubai by Golf Dubai CEO,
Christopher May, and Craig Haldane, Director - Golf
Course Maintenance at Golf Dubai.
The arid, sandy dunes of the desert surrounding
Dubai are perhaps the last place you would
expect to see the lush green grasses of a world
class golf course. But this is no desert mirage; golf
is big business in Dubai and across the United
Arab Emirates (UAE) and the golf courses of the
UAE are some of the busiest in the world. This is
thanks in large part to the tourists that pass
through the region, with both tourists and locals
alike preferring to hit the links between October
and May when the weather is ideal. In the
sweltering summer months, play continues albeit
with one major difference – golfers tee off at night!
Water conservation is undoubtedly the biggest
challenge for golf clubs in Dubai; the high
temperatures and humidity make upkeep of
quality turf grass a never-ending job. Golf Dubai
uses 100% recycled water (treated sewage
effluent water) on all their facilities. The sheer
amount of water required can be up to 800,000
gallons (US) in the summer. Maintenance work
commences from as early as 4am in summer
months in order to present a spectacular green
for the golfers to enjoy.
42
DUBAI
Elisabeth Middlemas from Outpost Iraq
Dubai asked four Dubai-based golfers
about what it’s like to play in the UAE.
Steve Polson (SP), a Cost Engineer, began
golfing as a kid, tagging along with his dad.
His dad enrolled him in a juniors’ night at the
local golf club when he was 10 and he was
“hooked”. Steve has been playing golf for 20
years, but much more regularly in the last
few years.
Karen Lawson (KL), an Outpost team
member, has been playing for six years. She
started to play in New Zealand because friends
suggested it was a good couple activity for her
and her husband. Karen exclaims, “It hasn’t quite
worked out that way!”
Loreen Gordon (LG), a Shell spouse, started
to play golf last September. She always wanted
to learn to play but never had the time with home
and work commitments. Loreen finally has no
excuses because on this posting, she is free from
work and her children are in the UK. Ian Turner (IT), an Operations Readiness &
Assurance Engineer, is the founder and
coordinator of an informal Shell golfing group
based in Dubai. Ian’s father-in-law was a very
keen golfer, having played for over 70 years,
and he got Ian into the sport 25 years ago. What are the best courses in the UAE and
how do they compare internationally? SP: I have been lucky enough to play a few of
the courses in the UAE; my favourites would
have to be Saadiyat, Emirates Golf Club
(Majilis) and Dubai Creek. The courses in
the UAE are of a very high standard and are
comparable to some of the best courses
internationally. There are two European Tour
Events held in Dubai with the Tours Grand
Finale held at Jumeirah Golf Estates in
November. The Dubai Desert Classic is held
every year in January and for many years
Tiger Woods travelled here to play in it.
LG: I have only played at Dubai Creek as it is
very convenient for me, but my play on their
18-hole golf course has been limited. That is
all going to change this year! I took a few
lessons on my own first, but I have now
joined a ladies group that does coffee and
golf lessons. The lessons are great; it’s a
small group with a one hour lesson followed
by coffee and cake with our golf professional
and afterwards we play the Par-3.
How often do you play in the UAE?
SP: I try to play twice a week. Unfortunately due
to the dark nights, play is limited to the
weekend, although there are a couple of
floodlit golf courses in Dubai. u
43
Feature
DUBAI
DUBAI
Feature
KL: I play on Wednesday mornings with a group
of ladies and I also try to get around the
Par-3 with my husband on a Monday
evening if he is in town. We have dinner
after playing and quite often other friends
will join us.
LG: Once a week with the coffee morning and
usually another once or twice a week either
with my husband, friends or on my own.
What about in the summer, do you still
play and if so how do you cope with the
heat?
SP: Yes, this is the second summer I have played
in the UAE. If the humidity is high, the round
is tough; obviously you must drink plenty of
water and stay in the shade as much as
possible. The majority, if not all the golf
courses offer buggies (included in the green
fee) and this is a big help. Plenty of
sunscreen and water is the key.
KL: We usually take a summer membership which
is cheaper than a full membership. Lots of
people travel during the Dubai summer but we
usually don’t because it’s winter at home in
NZ; instead we stay in Dubai and play right
through summer. It is really quiet on the course
and we enjoy it. Key tactics to keep up your
If you are headed to Dubai and are keen for
a round of golf, Steve Polson provides the
following tips:
Do you need a handicap to play in UAE?
Depends, some courses ask for it, however
generally they will let you on without a handicap.
Is it expensive? Can people hire clubs?
Golf in the UAE is quite expensive in comparison
to other locations, however the courses are of a
high standard and the maintenance required to
keep them at a continual high standard in this
climate is costly. You can hire golf clubs; they’re
reasonably priced and are up-to-date clubs from
well-known brands.
44
momentum during the summer heat include
using golf carts, drinking lots of water,
maintaining good nutrition, wearing sunscreen
and most importantly, knowing when to stop.
The clubs also provide cool towels.
What is your proudest golfing
achievement or moment?
IT: I’ve actually got two proudest golf moments
and one is not in Dubai! First one is going to
the 2012 Ryder Cup and seeing Europe beat
the USA on the final day after being 10 – 6
behind. Second one is in Dubai watching my
wife, Kate, nearly get a hole in one on the
Par-3 14th hole at the Creek. LG: Beating my husband on the Par-3…
Although he does not consider that a
golf course! n
What do keen golfers need to know
about Dubai’s golf scene?
1. Climate – best time to play is October through
to April.
2. Look at the total yardages of the courses;
some of the courses can be quite long.
3. Take plenty of golf balls if you plan to play
Dubai Creek.
What about beginners?
For those who have never picked up a club and
fancy giving it a go, there are numerous golf
professionals offering beginner’s classes
across the UAE. There are also a number of
Par-3 courses in the UAE that are perfect for
beginners.
centre world
OF
THE
Joining Shell in 2002, Bharat Bhatia first sailed on
Shell fleet tankers before moving ashore in 2007.
He and his wife, Chikur, have two boys, Aann and
Arth, who are now eight and five years old.
a blend of Eastern and Western cultures. It is an
incredibly popular place where millions of
travellers every year either pass through for a
brief visit or stay for months or even years to
experience its unique culture.
BHARAT BHATIA
For my family, living in Dubai has been a
fantastic opportunity to experience our first
overseas posting while still being close to our
homeland of India. Although the relocation
was full of challenges for our family, the
relocation teams, Outpost Iraq Dubai and the
transfer advisors made the whole process as
smooth as possible. u
The Dubai that most visitors and residents know
today is a relatively young city. Located in the
centre of the world, at the junction of the African
and Asian continents, but still close to Europe,
Dubai has a character all of its own, showing
45
Feature
Feature
DUBAI
DUBAI
Arriving here in July 2014, the city’s lifestyle and
weather were totally different to anything we had
ever experienced. Temperatures were in the high
40s - even touching the low 50s at times. The
fasting month of Ramadan had just started, with
eating and drinking in public not allowed during
the day. Wanting to drive, but still needing to
complete the necessary residency paperwork,
was one of the challenges we faced soon after
our arrival.
It is now more than one year since we moved to
Dubai. Looking back, there are several things that
would be useful to know for anyone preparing to
be posted here. Schooling and transportation are
two of the most important issues for families to
learn about.
Schooling is big business in this country. Not only
are the costs high, but the quality of education
varies from one school to the next. If you have two
or more school-aged children, having them
admitted into the same school, especially for the
junior years, is not easy. We made use of the
comprehensive information provided by Shell
Education to learn what each of the schools had to
offer, which helped us in finding the right school.
Schooling is big business
in this country
Dubai has limited public transportation which
basically services the areas close to Sheikh
Zayed Road. It is important to get a driving
license as quickly as possible. For most new
residents who have western passports, it is an
easy switch to a UAE license. However, many
others are required to go through the grind of
sitting a driving test, which is costly and can be
challenging. Once your residency paper work is
in progress, you are not allowed to drive and are
limited to using local taxis. Although taxis are
generally cheap, they can be difficult to locate
during the busiest periods of the day, especially
at 4:00pm and 7:00pm until 8:00pm.
Before you start driving in Dubai, it is mandatory
for all Shell employees to undergo a Defensive
Driving Course. This is also available for spouses
and is highly recommended. Because Dubai
blends driving techniques from all over the world,
the quality of driving is generally not of a high
standard. For example, at speeds of up to 120
kilometres per hour, you still witness a great deal
of tail-gating and fast changing across lanes of
traffic. Despite this reckless style of driving, the
police and speed cameras are quite good at
keeping these non-compliances under control.
Once you have organised schooling, housing
and transportation, and as the other formalities of
Feature
moving to a new country gradually fall into
place, it is time to start enjoying the fantastic
opportunities that Dubai has to offer.
It is time to start enjoying the
fantastic opportunities that
Dubai has to offer.
There is much to enjoy in Dubai from dune
bashing and going on desert safaris to visiting
some of Dubai’s fantastic beaches, water parks
and resorts. Mountain trekking is also popular, as
well as skiing down the slopes of artificial snow
in the indoor Ski Dome. Hatta Dam, a 90-minute
drive from Dubai near the border of Oman, is
located high in the Hajar Mountains and is a
popular place to escape the coastal heat and
humidity.
The working week generally begins on
Sunday and ends on Thursday, which we found
a little strange at first, but we quickly adapted,
and haven’t had a case of the Monday Blues
since! Living and working in Dubai has been
a lovely experience and we are looking
forward to our next year of living in the
“Centre of the World”. n
Next, you need to decide on housing. We wanted
a home as close as possible to school. Unlike in
the UK, walking to school is not possible in Dubai
due to the extreme heat, dense population and
long distances between schools and housing.
Although most schools have buses for driving
children to and from school, children may spend a
great deal of time in these buses, depending on
how far they live from the school. We also needed
to consider which direction our house was located
from the Shell office to avoid time-consuming traffic
jams in the morning and evenings.
46
47
In the news
In the news
Raising Cultural Awareness
quite astute as I have found that I work best in
teams where I have felt there is a common goal.
Overall, I think this is a fair assessment. I
recognised aspects of my profile that have
caused me to have to adjust my way of thinking
when working in different locations. For example,
I am strongly egalitarian and this was seen as
unusual by a team I managed during a previous
posting in a location where hierarchy is
important. For business trips, I found the country
advice quite useful, though it may take a minute
to digest all the information that’s available.
with GlobeSmart
Before you began your international assignment in
your current location, you probably spent some time
finding out about important issues related to
relocation such as housing, healthcare, transportation,
education for children and career opportunities for
partners. It’s also important to consider whether
your personal working style is compatible with
practices in your new location.
Working with people from diverse backgrounds
is one of the many advantages of being part of a
multinational organisation. Whether you are
travelling on business, moving to a new location
to take up an international assignment or
working within a multicultural team in your home
country, there are opportunities – and challenges
- that come with having different points of view
and different ways of working.
To help employees maximise the benefits of
working in an international environment, Shell
has recently introduced a special online tool
called GlobeSmart. The tool allows you to input
details about yourself in order to produce a
cultural profile outlining your personal approach
to the work environment. GlobeSmart also
provides a general cultural profile of workers in a
given location. You can compare your cultural
profile to the location’s profile, which helps you
to highlight areas of potential differences and
encourages you to work towards a better
understanding of your co-workers.
48
Graham Sparks, VP for Diversity and Inclusion,
notes that this enhances Shell’s drive to improve
the business by promoting inclusion and
encouraging high-quality working relationships:
“Embracing inclusion and building trust will help
to unleash the collective capability of our diverse
talents resulting in better business performance.
When our employees feel included and
engaged, they leverage the richness of ideas,
backgrounds and perspectives to create business
value. Awareness of different cultures and ways
of working of our colleagues, customers,
suppliers and joint venture secondees around the
world is critical to our success. I first used the
GlobeSmart tool prior to a business trip to Qatar.
The tool is simple and quick to use and provided
me with an overview of my own cultural profile.
I was able to compare my profile with the average
profile for others from my own nationality and
also with individuals from Qatar. The gaps are
easily identified and the tool gives good advice
on what to consider when in the host country,
how to conduct business as well as practical do’s
and don’ts. This is a well-designed product that
offers much more than a Google search.”
So how does GlobeSmart work in practice?
Destinations looked at three different
applications of the tool – firstly as a means of
understanding local working culture for an
Australian expat living in Geoje, South Korea;
secondly as preparation for business trips to
Russia and Nigeria for a British expat living in
The Netherlands and finally as a team-building
exercise for a multicultural team working in an
HR department in The Hague.
The Expatriate:
GlobeSmart was pretty easy to use and it gave
quite an accurate reflection of me and my
working style. It highlighted some gaps between
some of my views and the perspectives of people
in Geoje. I have to say I was aware of many of
these issues as I already have a basic
understanding of Korean culture, but the advice
given was very helpful. For instance, there were
tips on how to approach working in an
environment where people do not typically
challenge authority and are more subtle in
expressing their disagreement than people in my
culture would be. It was good to be reminded
that there isn’t just one way to be – and it’s
possible to find a good balance between the
two approaches.
The Business Traveller:
I was surprised by some of the results. I consider
myself to be more independent than
interdependent, but the results of the questions
suggested otherwise. I would also have thought
of myself as being more task-oriented than
relationship-oriented, but on reflection this is
The Team:
We used GlobeSmart as a tool to help our team
work together more effectively. Each team member
set up their individual profile and then opted to
allow their profile to be shared. Using the
“Compare Profiles” tab, we could see how each
team member differs on issues like independence,
status and risk. We used this information as a
starting point for a team-building exercise to
highlight differences in our multi-cultural team.
Our team consists of people from four different
continents who have all lived in many different
locations, so this was an interesting exercise.
GlobeSmart provided advice on “style switching”
– for example suggesting that a very direct person
could expand their skillset to be more subtle when
dealing with people who are not used to that
particular approach. For us, it served as a good
starting point for a team discussion.
To find out more and to sign up for GlobeSmart
using your Shell email address, visit the D&I
portal at:
https://eu001sp.shell.com/sites/AAAAA9387/
SitePages/Cultural%20Awareness.aspx
49
In the news
OUTPOST GIVES BACK
Outpost teams around the world celebrated our 20th anniversary in October and November
2015 with a series of charity events designed to bring people together and to collaborate
with existing ventures in our host communities. The Outpost Gives Back initiative included a
range of events such as:
community sanitation project
Helping out at a food bank
n Raising funds for refugees
n Donating clothing and household materials
n Contributing to efforts to help displaced indigenous groups
Our Outpost
AN EXPAT WORLD
AT THE CLICK OF A BUTTON
www.globaloutpostservices.com
n A
n
And much more…
Outpost website visitors can read Destinations online, browse through Outpost Inside Guides, photo
galleries, advert listings, event calendars, as well as get information on office opening times, contact
details, and the various services offered in each Outpost location.
Registering is Quick and Easy:
DID YOU KNOW?
Our GEMS provider is changing from Bupa to Cigna effective January 1, 2016. Please make
sure you review the GEMS transition updates to stay informed. Welcome kits, including your
new virtual membership cards will be sent by Cigna in early December. Please register on Cigna
Envoy, Cigna’s secure customer portal, before heading off on your year-end holidays to ensure
you have all the required details in case you need to contact Cigna after January 1, 2016.
A Shell Employee?
We need your name, email address, and Shell User ID.
A Family Member?
We need your name, email address, and your partner or parent’s Shell User ID. (Please note Shell
employee’s will be asked for verification)
More information including FAQs will be sent to GEMS members in
mid-November 2015.
As a reminder, please ensure you submit any claims incurred in 2015
to Bupa as soon as possible.
WHO IS CIGNA?
n
Cigna
Global Health Benefits offers a full line of coverage for globally mobile employees.
has over 890,000 members who can contact Cigna 24/7 in their preferred language
and time zone.
n Cigna provides access to a global network of health care providers in more than 205
countries and jurisdictions.
n Members have complete freedom of choice and can access over 1m providers in Cigna’s
global medical network.
n Cigna’s secure customer portal, www.CignaEnvoy.com and Mobile App provide Shell
employees with access to all the essentials of their plans anywhere, anytime. After registration
on the website and App, members will have a range of health information and services
available at their fingertips.
n
Cigna
50
WITH OFFICES ALL AROUND THE
WORLD, OUTPOST ASSISTS SHELL
EMPLOYEES AND THEIR FAMILIES
ON THE MOVE.
JUST VISIT
www.globaloutpostservices.com
51
NEXT ISSUE
DESTINATIONS ISSUE #75
FOCUS ON:
New Perspectives
(Spring 2016)
Destinations is a magazine for Shell
employees and their families, exploring
what it is like to live and work in
various Shell locations around the world.
Issues are distributed globally, and the
magazine can also be viewed online at:
www.globaloutpostservices.com
The next issue is called New Perspectives
and will focus on Shell employees and
their families taking on new opportunities.
We would welcome contributions on
any of the following topics:
Changing career or exploring
new roles
Your first posting abroad or a posting
to a location you never expected
Settling back into your home country
after postings abroad
New graduates on the move
Embracing diversity
Unconventional projects
If you have an idea for a story or
photographs to share on a New
Perspectives topic, please contact
[email protected] to discuss further.