How-To Install Your Triumph Spitfire Interior

Transcription

How-To Install Your
Triumph Spitfire Interior
K
ee
Th p'e
e m
R O
oa n
d ™ ...
SG.16
✰ Special Interior Kits ✰
Made In England By The BMH Chosen Manufacturer
Exclusive United States Distributor
VICTORIA BRITISH LTD.
Toll Free - All USA & Canada
Orders - Catalog Requests - Status 24 Hour Worldwide Fax 1-800-255-0088
1-913-599-3299
®
2
Spitfire Interior Kit
✰ Exclusive ✰ Special Interior Kits
For 1973-80 Triumph Spitfire
VICTORIA BRITISH LTD.®
The Exclusive United States Distributor
Made In England
Available in Black Or Biscuit Vinyl
VICTORIA BRITISH LTD. is the Exclusive distributor for
these Special Interior Kits. Whether you are doing a
complete restoration or just want to upgrade your interior,
these kits will save you money.
Just Look At All You Get:
Made from high quality black and biscuit colored vinyl, kits
include everything you need to make your car look
showroom new again. They come equipped with everything
you need to complete the interior of your car. Each kit has
piping colored to match the complete interior.
Give your car an interior that will be admired for years to
come. Call and order a Special Interior Kit today.
Part #
●
●
●
●
●
2 Door Panels
Door Panel Clips
2 Door Capping Coverings
Rear Quarter Panel Kit
Rear Cockpit Panel
●
Vinyl Seat Kit
2 Vinyl Headrest Covers
● 2 Seat Bottom Foams
● 2 Seat Back Foams
● Complete Black Carpet Set
●
The Spitfire Biscuit Interior Kit comes with Black Carpet Set.
Description and Application
Reqd
1973-80 Spitfire Vinyl Interior Kits
16-342-BB
16-342-BS Special Interior Kit
Special Interior Kit
Black/Black Biscuit Spitfire 73-80 (1)
Spitfire 73-80 (1)
VICTORIA BRITISH LTD. / Box 14991 / Lenexa, KS 66285-4991 / 1-800-255-0088
For Your Information
3
Why You Should Do-It-Yourself !
The most intimidating, complex appearing and actually the
simplest part of your Triumph Spitfire is the interior
upholstery.
No timing lights, gapping tools, torque wrenches,
oscilloscopes or brain surgeon capabilities are required ...
No paint booths, hydraulic car lifts or NASA clean rooms
are needed ... No grandmother with an industrial sewing
machine, or esoteric heat sealing presses are required for
you to do-it-yourself. Basic hand tools you probably already
own, or can borrow from a friend or dad, will help you get
the job done. A garage would be nice but an interior can be
installed in an apartment complex parking lot ... you should
pick one in the shade. Seats can be removed, taken indoors
and reupholstered in the middle of the winter.
The interior components in these kits already have all of the
seams, flutes, grooves and patterns made into them. You
just remove, dismantle and reinstall.This is the one part of
a car that generates the most attention if it is done right.
Doing it right is the way we wrote this special section to
assure you that “you can do it”. The magic of an interior is having all of the correct components ... and these kits do! ...
Why you should do-it-yourself ... because now you know you can!
Remember, if you don’t have the time, buy the kit and take it to a professional upholstery shop. You know what the finished
job will look like before it’s done. These kits make upholstery shops look good.
This Symbol Is Important To You
What You Need To Do-It-Yourself
Victoria British Ltd. has been selected
as a British Motor Heritage Distributor for
the USA. Our dedication and commitment
to supplying quality original equipment,
replacement and reproduction parts for
your British Sports Car and our high
standards of customer service resulted in
this industry honor.
●
●
●
●
●
●
This symbol on our upholstery accessory pages is your
assurance that this product is from a BMH Manufacturer.
British Motor Heritage, Ltd. is the official organization in
England dedicated to facilitating a continuing supply of
replacement and restoration parts for all British vehicles.
BMH provides a permanent link to the actual manufacturer
of your British Sports Car by supplying us with factory
information and original equipment contacts. This, in turn,
enables us to maintain the most complete and highest
quality supply of proper replacement, restoration and
maintenance parts for your vehicle.
Index
Special Interior Kits
Interior Kit Installation Instructions:
Tools Needed For Installation
General Intructions and Tips
Carpet & Panel Reolaxement
Door Panel Replacement
Seat Cover Replacement
●
●
●
2 Flat Head Screwdrivers; 1 Small and 1 Medium
2 Phillips Head Screwdrivers; #1 and #3
Open End and Socket Wrenches; 5/8", 7/16", 1/2"
Spray-on or Brush-on Carpet and Trim Adhesive
Carpet and Upholstery Cleaner
● Awl or Ice Pick
Pop Rivet Gun and 1/8" Rivets
● Masking Tape
Electric Drill with 1/8" Metal Bit
● Scissors
Razor or Utility Knife
● Hammer
2 Pieces of Cloth-Approx. 24"x24"
● Staple Gun
Page #
2
3
4
4-7
7-8
8-10
4
How To Do-It-Yourself
Spitfire Interior Installation
Easy To Follow Step-By-Step Instructions
General Instructions and Tips
Read ahead a paragraph or two at a time so you can plan ahead. Lay out items as you dismantle the car and match them
up with the new parts. Lay out all carpet pieces and to match location and size.
Keep the parts for each area labeled with masking tape and marking pen for easier location later. Small containers such
as plastic film canisters or baby food jars that can be taped to the larger parts come in handy. Don’t throw all the parts
into one container, as you may forget which piece went where.
Don’t throw away anything until you are sure that you won’t need it again. This is a good idea anytime with an older car,
considering the decreasing availability of parts.
Where holes are needed in new panels for screws or rivets, place the old panel on top of the new panels and tap the awl
firmly with a hammer to punch the pilot hole at each spot. Use the old panels or a piece of cardboard under the area
where you are working to keep from damaging your work area.
Use a knife or scissors to trim carpet and other material. You may lightly tap the material with a hammer to aid sticking
the carpet down and removing wrinkles.
Clean and vacuum as you go so you eliminate having old abrasive dirt under your new interior. Keep your hands clean
and dry while working with new carpet and vinyl.
When gluing, apply adhesive to both surfaces and allow to dry slightly before joining.
Use a good quality cleaner designed to remove glue from carpets and upholstery to remove overspray or glue spills.
Rivets will have to be drilled out with an electric drill and a 1/8" drill bit. If a rivet starts to spin as you drill, hold it in place
with the tip of a flat screwdriver and then place the drill at a slight angle.
Disconnect the battery cables before working, to avoid the possibility of shorting out anything while working. This would
be a good time to check the condition of the floor boards, doors and any other body sections for rust, corrosion and wear.
Repair these before installing your new interior.
Getting Started
Remove Seats and Panels
Unsnap convertible top boot and remove the convertible
top retaining bar. Unsnap and remove convertible top,
frame hardware and attachments using the #3 Phillips
screwdriver. Remove the door seal trim by unscrewing
chrome finisher plate and drilling out rivet.
Push the seat all the way back and loosen the two clips that
hold the seat base to the frame in front. Grab the front of
the seat base on each side and pull up and forward to
remove (Fig. 1).
Check for wear, replace trim if necessary, or if this old
trim does not match your new interior. Store to keep for
later use.
Figure 1
Make sure to disconnect seat sensor switch wire. Use a
7/16" socket wrench to loosen and remove the front bolts
holding the seat frame to the floorboards (Fig. 2).
Figure 2
Notice the placement of
the spacers under frame,
and set them aside with
the bolts. Move the seats
into the full forward
position and use the
socket wrench to remove
rear seat bolts (Fig. 3).
Figure 3
Figure 7
5
Figure 8
Keep the two seat base
foams separate, as the
right and left sides are
different shapes.
Remove seat belts with a
5/8» socket (Fig. 4). Keep track of which side each seat
belt mechanism belongs to for later replacement. Check
condition of the belts, and replace them if necessary.
Remove the rear deck carpet, then use a Phillips screwdriver
to remove the screws along each side of the rear cockpit
panel, and pull it out (Fig. 5).
Figure 4
Punch screw holes into new panels using awl and hammer
described above.
Remove the seat belt attachment spacer in the wheel well
by prying loose with a strong flathead screwdriver (Fig. 9).
Figure 9
Figure 5
Using the old panels as guides, punch holes into the new
panels using a hammer and awl (Fig. 6).
Figure 6
Pull the old vinyl off of the wheel well and clean the wheel
well thoroughly to remove dirt and old glue.
When dry, apply glue to both the wheel well and the back
of the new vinyl.
When the glue is tacky, press the vinyl into place, starting
at the center and working out. Leave plenty of overlap to be
trimmed away later.
Smooth and slightly stretch the vinyl as you apply it to
eliminate any wrinkles and bubbles. Pull loose the vinyl
strip on B-post, clean and replace with the new vinyl in the
same manner as the
wheel well vinyl.
Figure 10
Leave plenty of vinyl to
overlap the edges and
trim away the excess
where needed (Fig. 10).
Pull out the panel, and remove the screws at the front of
the rear quarter panels (Fig. 7).
The rear of the quarter panels are held to the frame with
two clips. Pull these clips off and set aside (Fig. 8).
Hold new quarter panels
in place to check the
overlap, then trim away
excess vinyl on wheel
well.
6
Clip the rear of quarter panel in, then curve the panel
around the side and attach with screws at the B-post
(Fig. 11).
Figure 14
Figure 11
When you remove the
weatherstrip, the top rail
cover will loosen, and
should be removed from
the door.
Insert the new door rail
cover and weatherstrip
by gently prying open
each clip with a flat head
screwdriver and pushing
the strip and cover into
place (Fig. 14).
Check the alignment of
the holes in the top rail cover for the door panel clips, and
trim them out if needed. Apply glue to both ends of the top
rail cover, as well as to the door frame where it will touch.
When the glue is tacky, use masking tape to hold the cover
in place until it is thoroughly dry (Fig. 15).
Attach the rear cockpit panel by screwing into place. Use
the new rings provided on each screw.
Figure 15
Door Panels
Figure 12
Roll window all the way
down, then remove the
window crank handle by
using two screwdrivers,
one to pry the panel and
handle apart, and one to
carefully push out the
retaining clip (Fig. 12).
Remove the single screw
that holds in door handle
bezel by pulling on the
handle with one hand
and slipping the bezel off
with the other hand
(Fig. 13).
Figure 13
Starting at one end of the
panel
and
working
towards the other, pry
loose the door panel,
using a screwdriver for
leverage if needed.
Refit the plastic trim from the old door pull onto the new
panel (Fig. 16).
Place the plastic clips into the new door panel in the same
positions they were in the old panel.
Figure 16
Leave the plastic and
foam in place on the door,
or replace if needed.
Watch for the window
crank handle spring from
behind the panel.
Remove plastic door pull trim and save to reuse with the
new door panel.
Remove old weatherstrip along the window opening by
prying it out with a screwdriver. This process will probably
ruin this strip, so have a new one ready to install.
Put the window crank
spring in place, then
carefully align each panel
clip as you press it into
the door frame, keeping
the spring held in place
as you do (Fig. 17).
Figure 17
Using a box knife, cut an
“X” in the vinyl to allow
for the window crank
hardware.
Carefully
replace the window crank
handle,
setting
the
retaining clip with a screwdriver as before. Try using
needle-nose pliers or a magnetic tip screwdriver to help
position this clip. Install the door handle bezel in the same
way it was removed.
Carpet Installation
Lay out new carpet
pieces by the car in the
position they are to be
installed. Check each
piece before installing to
be sure of position and
fit. Most of the carpet
pieces are molded to
ease fitting. Unscrew
four screws that hold
transmission
tunnel
cover in place (Fig. 18).
Figure 18
7
Figure 20
Clean all areas as well as possible and check for corrosion
and wear. Correct these problems, if needed.
Apply glue to the back of the side foot well carpets and to
the corresponding body area. When tacky, press firmly into
place. Then apply glue to the door sill and carpet. Check
the fit carefully, especially around the cross member,
trimming with scissors if necessary.
Glue in the carpet for the short panel at the rear of the floor
section, tapping lightly with a small hammer to help mold
the carpet around the supports. Lay the rear ramp carpet
into place and clip the plastic moulding over the metal lip at
the front (Fig. 21).
Figure 21
Remove this cover, then
unscrew and remove the
knee pads and armrest/hand brake cover.
Remove floor carpeting.
The front floor carpets
are held in place with
snaps, and the rear floor
carpet is set into place,
so these will just lift out.
Using a socket wrench,
loosen bolts at the base
of the radio support panel
(Fig. 19).
Figure 19
Remove the Phillips
screws at the top,
allowing movement of
the panel for removal
and replacement of the carpet beneath. For more ease in
working, you may remove this panel and radio completely,
making sure to mark all wires as you disconnect them.
Unscrew the gear shift knob, disconnecting the switch
wiring if equipped with overdrive. This will allow you to pull
loose the carpet under the dash and over the gear shifter.
Pull loose the other carpet along the door sills and sides of
the foot wells (Fig. 20).
Lay the rear floor carpet
into place. Use an awl or
icepick to locate the holes
for the seat frame and seat
belt attachment bolts.
Figure 22
Mark each spot and cut a
small round hole to allow
for the bolts (Fig. 22).
Bolt all the seat belt
components into place.
8
Position the front gear box carpet under the dash, slipping
the shift gaiter cover in place.
Make sure the carpet is fit well, then locate the position of
the holes for the radio support panel bolts. Trim a small
hole for these bolts.
other side, making sure to align all the edges of the piping
in the same direction to eliminate lumps.
Figure 25
Replace the gear shift knob, and reinstall the radio
support panel.
Position each front floor carpet in the car use the awl locate
and mark the position of the snap studs beneath. If a stud
is missing, drill a 1/8» hole in the flooring and attach the
supplied stud using a pop-rivet gun.
At each stud location, trim away a small bit of the carpet
fiber to allow for the top of the ring clip. Push the points of
the clip down using a flathead screwdriver (Fig. 23).
Repeat for the other clips and snap the carpet into place.
Figure 23
Figure 26
Put the seat base back
into the wire frame and
attach the cover to the
frame, using pliers to
attach the wire clips
around the vinyl (Fig. 26).
Figure 27
Seat Covers
Attach each side, and trim
away the excess vinyl.
Using pliers, remove the clips from the wire frame of the
seat base to loosen and remove the cover. Pull the old fire
retardant fabric from the seat foam, and reuse it on the
bottom of the new foams. Use the new cardboard seat
stiffeners under the foam.
Remove seat adjustment
handle from the side of
seat back using a Phillips
screwdriver (Fig. 27).
Turn the cover edges inside out, and apply glue to the back
of the ribbed portion of the seat cover, as well as the
sections on each side. Also glue the corresponding areas
on the foam (Fig. 24).
Figure 24
When the glue is tacky,
align the edge of cover’s
ribbed section with the
recessed area of foam,
and also at the front.
Put one hand inside the
rolled back cover, into
the corner, and use the
other hand to pull cover
over the edge of the foam
(Fig. 25). Repeat for the
Start at the center of front
and rear, then work out to
the corners, keeping the
vinyl pulled tight and even
all along.
Figure 28
Take careful note as you
proceed of how the seat
cover is attached for
later refitting. Set the
seat upside down and
pull the black seat
release handle, swinging
the runners away from
the frame.
Pull off clips that hold the
old seat back cover to the
frame at the very bottom.
Fold this first flap back
and unclip the fabric that
comes back from the front
of the seat (Fig. 28).
Pull down on the flaps on
each side of the cover to
release the hook from
the frame. Fold back flap
and remove the old board
by pulling the staples
loose and slipping out
(Fig. 29).
Figure 29
If this board is worn,
carefully drill out the
rivets holding the hook.
Set the hook aside, then
use the old board as a
template to cut a new
board out of the old door panel or rear cockpit panel.
9
Pull loose the headrest, cover and seat back foam.
Now is the time to check for worn hardware, rust and the
general condition of the frame. Repair or replace any
necessary parts, and wire brush or steel wool off any rust,
then repaint to prevent further rusting.
Reuse your old side flap boards, if they are in good
condition, otherwise make new ones by using the old ones
as a template. Transfer the metal brackets onto the new
boards, making sure they are fitted into the correct sides
and fit snuggly in the side pockets of the seat cover.
Figure 32
Mark where the holes for the rivets belong, then either
screw the hook in place or drill small holes and pop-rivet
the hook on. Mark and cut the hole to allow for the frame
bolt. Swing the runners back into place on frame.
Pull the cover loose from the foam in front, then reach in to
pull out the flap of fabric that feeds through the middle of
the foam (Fig. 30).
Figure 30
Using scissors, trim away just enough of the vinyl to allow
for the hook and the frame bolt (Fig. 32), then glue the
inside of the vinyl to the boards.
Figure 33
Apply glue to the back
edge of the foam, as well
as to the frame and webs
(Fig. 33).
Pull and roll the cover up over the headrest, and using a
flathead screwdriver, release the headrest retaining clip at
the base of the headrest shaft (Fig. 31).
Figure 31
Place the seat foam on the frame, making sure the opening
for the headrest shaft is aligned properly ( Fig. 34).
Figure 34
10
Figure 35
Figure 38
Adjust
the
cover
accordingly, turn the seat
frame upside down, then
clip the first layer of vinyl
in the back to the frame
(Fig. 38).
Turn the seat over on its
back, then trim away just
the foam backing from
the front flaps that cover
the seat back foam on
each side (Fig. 39).
Slip the cover just over the top of the frame and foam. Tuck
the flap in through the opening in the foam (Fig. 35) and
down the back.
Carefully pull the seat
cover down the rest of
Figure 36
the way, taking care not
to pull too much at the
seams. Reach in behind
the foam and pull the
center flap tight, clipping
it to the frame.
Remove the clip from
inside the headrest shaft,
and put the shaft in place
to check for alignment of
the cover on the foam.
Figure 37
Figure 39
Figure 40
Apply glue to the back of
the vinyl and to the end of
the foam. When tacky,
fold the vinyl over the end
of the foam. Pull the side
flaps down and attach
them to the frame. Turn
the seat on one side, and
apply glue to the front
vinyl flap and bottom of
the seat foam and frame.
When tacky, pull taught
and glue into place.
Check the alignment of
the back and bottom
flutes, and pull the flap of
vinyl loose to reposition if
necessary. Clip a small
hole with the scissors to
allow for the adjustment
handle attachment. Screw
the adjustment handle
back into place.
Turn the seat over to the
back again and pull the
black seat release handle
to swing the runners away
from the frame.
Pull the back of the cover around the release handle and
over the frame, and trim away the excess vinyl (Fig. 40).
Clip the two vinyl flaps into place.
Use a Phillips screwdriver, remove the screws attaching
the base cover to the headrest. Pry off staples from the
headrest cover using a flat head screwdriver (Fig. 36).
Slip the old headrest cover off by pulling off one end of the
cover and then the other. Turn the new headrest cover
inside out and hold it in place on top headrest assembly
(Fig. 37).
Slowly work cover down over the foam, and over one end.
Turn to the other end and pull the cover over until all the
way on. Adjust piping and position as necessary.
Pull tight and staple where the old cover was. Attach the
headrest base cover as positioned before. Replace
headrest into seat by making sure the clip is in position and
firmly pushing the shaft back into place.
Turn the seat upright, insert the clip into the headrest shaft
and push it into place. Bolt the seats back into the car, and
clip in the seat base.
With all of your new interior kit installed, you’re ready to
reassemble your car.
Replace the convertible top and the top retainer bar in the
same manner as they were removed. Attach the convertible
top boot and reconnect your battery.
You did it yourself! Yes, it was work, but the finished job
was worth it. Go ahead and smile… you earned it. This is
what pride is all about!
"Keep’em On The Road"™ ... With Style !
For Your Information
11
Practical Restoration Guide
Wait a minute, you already bought the Complete Interior Kit! Well now you have to make sure that the mechanicals are
going to function as terrific as it looks. Your British car has to function as an automobile before it can really be fun. If
you have not already taken care of these five steps now is the time to work on the practical restoration of your car. The
following plan of attack was formulated over the years and has been synthesized from a multitude of experiences. Subject
to debate, true, the following five step guide can help you avoid most of the problems inherent with a car 15 years old or
older.
Owning a British car can be a personally rewarding
experience, financially beneficial, and more plain fun than
any other type of car available. Or it can be a constant
source of frustration and irritation. To achieve the former
and avoid the latter takes more of an application of common
sense than huge sums of money.
The first temptation is to remove all of the chrome and
rubber, fill the holes, and paint your dream car that special
color lurking in your minds eye. After the third tow bill,
second late for work or the last missed party you’ll regret it.
Cosmetics are the last step. Oops!
1. STOPPING. Attack the braking as a complete
system. If a car is 10 years old or more: Kit all
cylinders, turn the drums, replace the shoes and/or
pads. 20 years old: Replace all the cylinders where
possible with new and do the rest. Don’t forget the
clutch and slave cylinder to complete the hydraulics
where applicable. Flush out, blow out the system
before installing new cylinders or kits and fill with
new brake fluid. Now both your car and your life are
protected. Think about it.
2. Starting and Electrical. Number one problem here
is getting those little electrics out of the battery and
over into the engine. New battery is standard, but
the solenoid, regulator, and remanufactured starter
and generator conjunctive with plugs, points,
condenser, rotor, cap, wire set, and sport coil all
installed at the same time will complete the attack
on both areas. Now whenever you turn the key
something should happen.
3. FUEL. All cars have now gone through the fuel crisis
and probably are carrying a full complement of crud,
corruption, muck, and goo in the tank, lines, and
carburetor. If the car is 15 years old or more pull the
tank, steam clean and coat the inside with one of those
space age chemicals available. Blow out the lines,
clean the fuel pump, if electric replace the points,
rebuild the carb or carbs and finally install an in line
fuel filter. Now the electrics can explode the gasics.
4. COOLING. All British cars overheat, bunk! Back
flush the engine and heater core, have a radiator
shop clean and core the radiator. Double change the
oil and filter, adjust the valves, check the water
pump, replace if questionable, replace all hoses,
and fan belts and finally research the market and
refill with a coolant mixture. Now it shouldn’t overheat,
leak, or diesel.
5. Everything not discussed thus far comes next. Now
that your car stops, starts, and runs dependably as
an automobile... have fun!
Good Luck and as always..."Keep’em On The Road" ™
VICTORIA BRITISH LTD. / Long Motor Corporation
© Copyright 1995
Printed In The USA
SG.16 Vol. 1, First Printing. This edition supersedes all
previous publications, including prices. All rights are reserved.
No part of this publication may be copied, reproduced, stored
in any retrieval system, communicated or transmitted in any
form or by any means: Photocopying, electronic recording or
otherwise, without prior written permission.
✰ Exclusive ✰
Special Interior Kit For 1973-80 Triumph Spitfire
SG.16
VICTORIA BRITISH LTD.
P.O. Box 14991
Lenexa, Kansas 66285-4991
BULK RATE
U.S. POSTAGE
PAID
VICTORIA BRITISH LTD

How-To Install Your Triumph Spitfire Interior

Transcription

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