Vancouver Island North

Transcription

Vancouver Island North
The
VANCOUVER
ISLAND NORTH
EXPLORER GUIDE 2016
Escape into Nature.
Alert
Bay
Discover our World
Arts | Culture | Heritage
U’mista Cultural Centre
Alert Bay Visitor Centre
and Art Gallery
Alert Bay Museum
Big House & World’s
Tallest Totem Pole
‘Namgis Burial Ground
with stand of totems
Activities
Whale watching
Fishing, Nature Trails
Traditional Canoes
Tennis Courts, Skate Park
Kayaking
Health
Hospital and Health Centre
Personal Care Services
Business
Full service Marina
Accommodations Hotels, B&B’s Cabins
Campground
Bike Rentals
Grocery store | Pharmacy
Restaurants | Pubs
Liquor Store | Post Office
Churches | Banking | Hair Salon
For general inquiries:
Alert Bay Visitor Centre
For your cultural planning contact: U’mista Cultural Centre
Phone: (250) 974-5403 Fax: (250) 974-5499
Toll Free: 1-800-690-8222 E-mail: [email protected]
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www.umista.ca
Phone: (250) 974-5024
Fax: (250) 974-5026
E-mail: [email protected]
www.alertbay.ca
www.vancouverislandnorth.ca
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communities
Welcome
to Vancouver
Island North
|
Ocean vast © Boomer Jerritt
alert bay
Vancouver Island North is the first word
and last stop in western Canada for relaxed
and spontaneous eco-adventure. The upper
third of the Canadian Pacific’s largest island
is unspoiled and largely undiscovered yet
just a day’s travel from Vancouver, Victoria
and Seattle. It offers a breathtaking palette
of parks, forests, lakes, saltwater inlets and
jigsaw-puzzle coastline. Black bears forage
for berries, whales splash at sea and eagles
glide overhead. The region also stretches past
the shores of Vancouver Island to include
magnificent Knight Inlet and a swath of the
Great Bear Rainforest on the mainland of
British Columbia.
Our friendly towns and villages are charmingly
relaxed, pleasingly civilized and within easy
reach of the area’s many special wild places.
Once unpacked, you’re free to experience the
North Island at your own pace. Spend your
days out at sea, exploring magical coastlines,
or immersed in our inland wilderness. Meet
and mingle with the friendly locals at cultural,
seasonal and community festivals. Shop for
crafts created on the North Island. Experience
First Nations traditions, art, and living culture.
Dine on the day’s catch around a campfire
or treat yourself to a meal at one of our
restaurants.
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As the sun sinks in the west, relax with
your traveling companions wherever you’ve
settled – wilderness campground, B&B, cabin,
cottage, hotel or resort. Trade stories, flip
through digital snapshots and plan tomorrow’s
new adventure. After all the fresh air and
active playtime, you’ll sleep well and awake
refreshed, revitalized and ready for more.
Explore the North Island on your own with goanywhere impulsiveness. Or hand the reigns to
expert guides and charter operators. Troll for
salmon in Queen Charlotte Strait or steelhead
and trout in inland lakes. Watch as orcas
power their way to the ocean surface. Ski
world-class powder at crowd-free Mount Cain.
Photograph black bears on the Island and
their grizzly counterparts in the Great Bear
Rainforest on the adjacent mainland coast.
Run the world’s fastest navigable tidal rapids.
Try scuba diving at God’s Pocket Marine
Park, surfing at Raft Cove or kayaking on the
sheltered east or wild west coasts. Perhaps
best of all, strap on a backpack for a trek
to windswept, impossibly scenic Cape Scott
Provincial Park at the island’s northern tip.
The Kwakwaka’wakw peoples have called this
region home for thousands of years. Alert Bay
is internationally known for its First Nations
cultural centre, public dance performances
and the world’s tallest totem pole. Gain a
deeper connection to the land and the people
by taking a guided cultural tour.
Fishing, logging and mining drew the first
European settlers north in the 1860s, and
their history is documented in a good
selection of local museums. Telegraph Cove
is a virtual museum in itself with its wooden
buildings, boardwalk and whale interpretive
centre. Peaceful oceanfront communities
like Sointula, Sayward and Quatsino remain
havens for the same getaway-from-it-all
dreams that drew their original homesteaders.
“find yourself while getting lost in nature”
Enjoy the amenities of our towns and villages.
And visit during summer festival season for a
taste of authentic community spirit. Whether
you’re seeking adventure or relaxation,
this remote yet accessible corner of British
Columbia serves up outdoor pleasures with a
satisfying dash of comfort.
activities
whale watching
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8
9
11
wildlife viewing
sport fishing
hiking
cape scott provincial park
kayaking
caving
diving
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13
14
15
museums & cultural centres21
twitter.com/vinorthtourism
first nations
facilities & info
charters
facebook.com/vancouverislandnorth.ca
23
places to stay
ways to play and relax
9-10
16
18
20
travelling
22
2016 events calendar
24
camping & recreation sites
25
regional map
26
places to eat
2016 Vancouver Island North Guide
Published by the North Island Gazette
www.northislandgazette.com
© Boomer Jerritt
youtube.com/VancouverIslandNorth
communities
alert bay
broughton archipelago
31
44
33
holberg & winter harbour
30
port alice
29
port hardy
35
port mcneill
42
In partenership with:
Vancouver Island Tourism
www.vancouverislandnorth.ca
quatsino
32
sayward
49
©2015 North Island Gazette
No portion of the magazine may
be reproduced without the written
permission of the North Island Gazette.
sointula
51
telegraph cove
47
woss & nimpkish valley
53
zeballos
52
Box 458, Port Hardy BC V0N 2P0
Phone 250-949-6225
Design & Production
[email protected]
publisher: Kathy O’Reilly-Taylor
sales: Natasha Griffiths
graphic design: Marnie Neaves
Knight Inlet Grizzly Bears © Boomer Jerritt
coal harbour
www.vancouverislandnorth.ca
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whale watching
These waters are one of the
most predictable places to see
killer whales in the wild.
Whale Watching
Vancouver Island North’s most celebrated
residents are its marine mammals.
Members of a population of some 285
fish-eating orcas known as the “Northern
Residents” are often in the area in pursuit
of salmon. The more stealthy mammaleating population of orca known as
“Transients” or “Bigg’s killer whales” are
also often hunting in the area.
Back from the brink of extinction,
humpback whales are now also a regular
sighting and make this area all the more
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remarkable for its marine mammal diversity.
Sightseeing trips may also encounter
Pacific harbour seals, Dall’s and harbour
porpoise, Minke whales and a prodigious
array of seabirds. Acrobatic Pacific whitesided dolphins and the world’s largest sea
lion species, the Steller sea lion, are in the
area year-round, though spring and fall
are the most predictable times to see large
numbers of both. The sight of dozens of
sea lions lazing on the rocks and growling
loudly is unforgettable.
Orca near Robson Bight Ecological Reserve © Destination BC
Vancouver Island North tour operators
view all of these magnificent creatures with
respect. The small community of operators
here is dedicated to ensuring safe,
sustainable encounters that serve marine
mammals and sightseers in equal measure.
Captains closely adhere to “Be Whale
Wise” guidelines that dictate that boats
stay at least 100 meters away from any
whales. That’s not to say these remarkable
mammals won’t make a memorable
encounter on their own terms.
DID YOU KNOW:
The wildlife viewing community on Northern
Vancouver Island cares so much about the whales
that they initiated a program to inform boaters how
to do what’s right for the whales. When you see the
Whale Watch Flag raised on a nearby
vessel, it means whales are in the area Slow down and watch for blows.
See www.nimmsa.org for more
information on this program.
BE WHALE WISE.
The following guidelines
apply to all tour operators,
commercial and pleasure
craft, as well as kayaks and
other self-propelled vessels:
•
Be cautious and courteous,
approaching known areas of
marine wildlife activity with extreme
caution
•
Reduce speed to less than 7 knots
when within 400 meters of the
nearest whale
•
Keep clear of the whales’ path
of travel
•
Do not approach whales from the
front or behind, always approach
and depart from the side
•
Do not approach or position your
vessel closer than 100 meters to
any whale
•
Stay on the offshore side of the
whales when they are travelling
close to shore
•
Do not swim with, touch or feed
marine wildlife
In addition with the return of
humpback whales to the area, for the
sake of both human and whale safety,
extra measures are required to
avoid collision:
•
Humpbacks are large, can surface suddenly and be very
unaware of boats.
•
Be on the lookout for blows at all times.
•
Go slow if you see a blow.
•
If you see the Whale Watch Flag raised on boats, slow down
as this means whales are near.
•
See the Marine Education and Research Society’s page for
known areas of known whale density and further information
on safe boater behaviour around whales www.mersociety.
org/blowgoslow.htm
•
Please report incidents e.g. disturbance, collision and
entanglement to:
DFO’s Reporting Line 1-800-465-4336.
Get out on the water with local experts
offering tours from the North Island
communities of Telegraph Cove, Port
McNeill, Alert Bay, or Port Hardy.
See www.vancouverislandnorth.
ca/whale-watching for listings.
www.vancouverislandnorth.ca
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Grizzly bear in Knight Inlet © Boomer Jerritt
wildlife viewing
Wildlife Viewing
Wild things roam here. Expect your first
sightings to be majestic bald eagles riding
the updrafts overhead or perhaps a black
bear munching on sweet grass at the edge
of Highway 19 (locally known as “bear
alley”). The Roosevelt Elk and Vancouver
Island Marmot are unique to the region.
Great blue herons fish at the edge of
estuaries that echo with the sweet call of
songbirds.
The Vancouver Island North region
includes a section of the mainland
coast that is renowned as one of the
world’s finest destinations for grizzly
bear sightseeing. Day tours depart
“Wild things roam here”
from Telegraph Cove to Knight Inlet
by boat, and multi-day tours (including
accommodation at a floating wilderness
lodge) head to the Great Bear Rainforest
from Port Hardy by floatplane.
See www.vancouverislandnorth.ca/bearviewing for listings.
Scarlet Point Seafoods Ltd
To stay safe and make
the most of these rare
photo opportunities,
please be aware of
the following when
encountering wildlife:
•
Always travel in a group and
keep a close eye on small
children and pets for safety
when hiking in the woods
•
Talk, sing, whistle or wear a bell
when hiking in order to avoid
startling a wild animal
•
If you encounter a wild animal,
stay back a respectful distance
so that they do not feel
threatened
•
Do not feed wild animals
•
If confronted by a wild animal,
pick up small children, make
yourself look as large as
possible, back away slowly and
leave the area
•
Never run from a wild animal
•
The safest encounter (for
both you and the animal) is an
encounter that is avoided
6710 Hardy Bay Road
PO Box 308 Port Hardy, BC V0N 2P0
Tel: 250-949-6630
Fax: 250-949-6313
[email protected]
8 | www.northislandgazette.com
acti v ities
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© Boomer Jerritt
sport fishing
Sport Fishing
Immerse yourself in one of the North
Island’s most enjoyable pastimes. Cast a
line as you motor past postcard maritime
scenery. Wait patiently for the big ones
to bite while enjoying the camaraderie of
fellow passengers and the good humour
of the laidback guides who lead charter
expeditions. Then get set to reel in the
catch of the day, soon to be cleaned and
readied for either the evening campfire or
professionally prepared, frozen or vacuumpacked, for the trip home.
All five varieties of Pacific salmon run fast
on migration routes that travel down the
west and east side of the Island, occasionally
detouring on tides and currents out into
the Queen Charlotte Strait. That gives
North Island fishing enthusiasts first dibs
on these members of the genus known as
Oncorhynchus (aka the big pink ones) as
they head south to their spawning grounds.
30+ years experience
in local waters.
Float your own boat at one of the many
convenient ramps in our waterfront
communities. Or hire a qualified charter
operator. Local guides supply all the
gear and advice necessary to reel in prize
catches. Comfortable fishing boats are
available by the half-day or day (be sure to
book in advance). And you don’t have to
go far from shore since the fish are typically
biting within the length of a fishing line cast
from any available dock.
Visitor Information Centers have leads on
guides and useful tips on what’s biting when
and where. Also available are maps of the
logging roads that head to steelhead and
trout-filled wilderness lakes and streams.
These routes are bumpy, and a solid fourwheel drive vehicle is recommended (but
not essential provided one drives slow and
easy).Salmon tend to migrate from May
through September, and their numbers
Fishing Charters & Sightseeing Tours
Come enjoy a day on our 20 foot
Bayliner Trophy equipped with all the
necessary safety gear as well
as any
local waters
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fishing
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ars pgear
“30 ye250.284.6204
Regan Hickling
r.com
shingcharte
fi
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250.209.2779
Cell
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779
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Alice, B
Box 1, Port
“all five varieties of pacific salmon run on migration routes past
the north island”
locally, as are crab, prawns, oysters and
mussels. Ask around at dockside or
visit the Fisheries and Oceans Canada
website, www.dfo-mpo.gc.ca, for tips about
regulations, licenses and conservation
areas. See www.vancouverislandnorth.ca/
sport-fishing for charter and guide listings.
DID YOU KNOW:
Rumble Beach
Regan Hick
peak in the summer and fall. Halibut are
abundant from March to September. Red
snapper and ling cod are also caught
ling
u
www.rwww.rumblebeachfishingcharters.com
250-209-2
204 or cell:
-6
4
8
-2
0
5
2
Box
• 1, Port Alice BC V0N 2N0
C V0N 2N0
All recreational sport fishing
license are now delivered
electronically through the National
Recreational Licensing System,
www-ops2.pac.dfo-mpo.gc.ca/
nrls-sndpp/index-eng.cfm –
Purchase yours in advance.
www.vancouverislandnorth.ca
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TOP 10 FISHING HOLES
|
Fishing © Boomer Jerritt
sport fishing
Freshwater
Saltwater
Nimpkish Lake
Schoen Lake
Roberts Lake
Victoria Lake
Woss Lake
O’Connor Lake
Quatse River
Nahwitti River
Keogh River
Cluxewe River
Blackfish Sound
Duval Point
Gordon Group
Masterman Island
Telegraph Cove
Cormorant Island
Cluxewe River Mouth
Wells Passage
Haddington Island
Quatsino Sound
+ LOCALS KNOW:
In early September the boat is optional! An
incredible fishing experience can be had right
from the dock or the seashore near the mouth
North Island rivers as the salmon start returning
during the spawning season.
You caught the big one...
...what are you going to do with it?
We can help with:
Custom Smoking
Custom filleting & vacuum packaging
Shipping services available,
some restrictions apply.
Port McNeill
250-956-FISH(3474) C: 250.230.0579
TF: 1.855.805. FISH(3474)
To pre-arrange any of these services call
wwww.vanislefishing.com
1-877-949-8781
www.hardybuoys.com
9300 Trustee Road, Port Hardy • 250-949-8781
(in the North Island Mall)
Full and Half Day
Charters Available!
Larry
Weber
Larry Weber
250-902-9493
250-902-9493
[email protected]
Larry Weber
[email protected]
www.leisuresuitcharters.com
www.leisuresuitcharters.com
250-902-9493
www.fishhardercharters.com
[email protected]
Specializing in fishing trips for salmon,
Specializing in fishing trips for salmon,
halibut&&steelhead.
steelhead.
halibut
Specializing
in fishing
trips for salmon,
[email protected]
Specializing in
fishing trips
for salmon,
halibut
&
steelhead.
www.leisuresuitcharters.com
Call Ryan Conway (604) 907-1613 PO Box 692 Port Hardy, BC V0N 2P0
halibut & steelhead.
10 | www.northislandgazette.com
acti v ities
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View of Nimpkish Valley from
Woss lookout tower ©
hiking
Hiking
www.vinmap.ca
“every day on vancouver island north dawns with fresh possibilities for those eager to explore the region on foot.”
Take it easy with short, scenic loop routes.
Spend the day hiking there and back to a
postcard picnic spot by lake, river or ocean.
Or go long on overnight and multi-day
backpacking treks into the heart of nature.
Casual hikers can map out the day’s
agenda over breakfast, then embark on
a series of diverse trails. Dedicated trails
and abandoned logging roads penetrate
deep into the landscape. Many seaside
communities are lined with wheelchairaccessible seawalls and boardwalks perfect
for family outings and sunset strolls prior
to an evening meal. View a Google map
with trail locations and information at
www.vinmap.ca or inquire at Local Visitor
Centres for details on such hiking options
as the following:
Port Hardy’s Quatse Loop and Estuary
Trail lead from the fisherman’s wharf and
oceanfront hotels. The Quatse Estuary
is home to eagles, herons and all kinds of
birdlife. The forested 2.5 km Quatse Loop
trail veers off and follows the river past the
Quatse Salmon Stewardship Centre with its
interpretive displays and hatchery.
Beachcombers flock to Storey’s Beach,
an inviting stretch of sand near Fort Rupert
just south of Port Hardy. Wade in the gentle
tides or tackle the rugged 11 km out-andback Tex Lyon Trail. The beach is one
terminus of the lovely Fort Rupert Trail,
a newly upgraded route that follows an
ancient First Nations pathway through the
forest and past a lake to Bear Cove Road.
The Port McNeill Rotary Trail is a wide,
smooth, crushed gravel pathway that runs
along Highway 19 and into the Town of
Port McNeill. A short distance north of Port
McNeill the Cluxewe Salt Marsh Trail
offers a sweet 45-minute return trip to the
beach.
Find a forest walk along the road to Port
Alice where the Marble River Trail offers
hikers two destinations, Emerald Pools or
Bear Falls - especially exciting during the
spawning season when the salmon leap
through the air in order to pass the falls on
their upstream journey.
All the First Nations must-sees of Alert Bay
on Cormorant Island are within an easy hike
of the ferry terminal. There’s an uphill climb
(or relaxed drive) to the Ecological Park
with its marsh boardwalk, excellent birdwatching and network of forested trails.
Otherwise more relaxed strolling can be had
at sea level along the restored boardwalk
and oceanfront seawall.
Follow in the footsteps of Sointula’s
pioneers along Malcolm Island’s historic
Mateoja Heritage Trail, a 6-km return
trip. Or watch for orcas when hiking the
aptly named Beautiful Bay Trail (5km
return).
For a truly unique west coast experience,
head past the community of Holberg
accessed via gravel logging road from
Port Hardy. Look for the signs to Raft
Cove, a provincial park with a moderately
challenging, 2.5 km trail leading through
the coastal rainforest out to the open
Pacific Ocean.
The Sayward Futures Society manages
a series of lovely wilderness hiking
trails, including the two-hour forested
Cottonwood Loop and, for those with
the four-wheel drive vehicles necessary to
access it, the Stowe Creek Trail leading
to the peak of H’Kusam Mountain.
Get up into the alpine on the short-but-steep
Woss Lookout Trail for a panoramic view
of the Nimpkish Valley from the recently
resorted fire lookout tower.
www.vancouverislandnorth.ca
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DID YOU KNOW:
|
The North Coast Trail in Cape Scott
Provincial Park is a 58 km multi-day
hiking route that opened in 2008
and is already considered by many
to be one of the best backcountry
adventures in the world.
cape scott
North Coast Trail © Steve Fines www.natureone.ca
Cape Scott Provincial Park
www.capescottpark.com
Travel is a journey,
not a destination,
and it’s a memorable
one when taken step by
remarkable step.
Still relatively undiscovered, the sweeping
tidal flats, forested trails and oceanslammed headlands of Cape Scott
Provincial Park are increasingly showing
up on the radar of the international
backpacking community.
Day hikers and family groups can get a
satisfying taste of the larger possibilities
by taking the 90-minute return trail to
San Josef Bay’s sandy beach on a wellgroomed gravel path from the trailhead
parking lot. Backpackers seeking a tougher
12 | www.northislandgazette.com
challenge take the original Cape Scott
Trail along 16 km of varied terrain to
incredible beach camping at Nels Bight.
The hardiest adventurers, meanwhile, find
the ultimate backcountry experience on the
North Coast Trail. This is a gloriously
challenging grind suitable for experienced
hikers capable of tackling steep headlands,
muddy sections and gorges with the aid of
fixed ropes, boardwalks and cable cars. The
58 km one-way trip requires a minimum of
five days.
Travel to the Cape Scott trailhead by driving
past Holberg on the gravel logging road or
arrange a shuttle from Port Hardy. Water
access to Shushartie Bay, the other end of
the North Coast Trail, is also available from
Port Hardy by water taxi. Shuttle and boat
services provided by Cape Scott Water Taxi
www.capescottwatertaxi.com.
Many backpackers who want a taste of this
park’s rugged beauty without the multi-day
trek of the North Coast Trail embark from
the Cape Scott trailhead to Nissen Bight,
Nels Bight and Guise Bay, all within a
day’s hike out.
In 2014 a new Ranger Cabin was
constructed at Nels Bight. With 100% off
the grid construction and facilities, it is
outfitted with solar power and led lighting,
a water catchment system, gray water
dispersal, and propane appliances. The
cabin is staffed during the summer and will
function as an emergency shelter for the
public during the off season. Please respect
this space if visiting during the winter.
Those who head to Cape Scott itself
are invited to sign the guest book at the
lighthouse. Expect to see trace evidence
along the trail of the late 19th century
Danish settlers who tried to make this
beautiful area their new home in the new
world.
Always come prepared! The weather is
highly changeable, and layered clothing
topped by sturdy rain gear is essential.
Overnight campsites are dotted along
these routes. Be sure to check out the
Virtual Hike of the park by visiting www.
capescottpark.com.
acti v ities
DID YOU KNOW:
|
Killer whale watching from a kayak
in Johnstone Strait was rated #2 in
the Lonely Planet’s Top 10 list of
Canadian Adventures.
Kayaking © Boomer Jerritt
k ayaking
Kayaking
North Coast Trail Shuttle
Cape Scott Water Taxi
Port Hardy to the Cape Scott North Coast Trail
ONE STOP LAND & WATER
TRANSPORTATION.
The Cape Scott North
Coast Trail Shuttle
Runs from May 1 – Sept.15
Cells: 250-902-8208 • 250-902-8202
www.northcoasttrailshuttle.com
Paddle into shallow coves, up
narrow creeks and across lakes
while appreciating a silence
broken only by the soft smack
of paddle against water. Hug
the coastline or strike out for
a nearby island to picnic on a
deserted sandy beach. Since
technique and balance are
more important than sheer
strength, this is one sport
that’s increasingly popular with
men, women and kids alike.
Strap your own transportation
to a roof rack, rent from a local
outfitter, or sign up for a guided
tour in this world-class paddling
destination. View intertidal life
in the clear, cold waters. Seals,
sea lions, orcas and maybe
even humpback whales are
happy to welcome respectful,
low-impact visitors to their
aquatic playground. The Lonely
Planet travel guide ranked killer
whale watching from a kayak in
Johnstone Strait #2 in their Top
10 list of Canadian Adventures.
Guides and fellow kayakers
become fast friends on day trips
or longer excursions that might
include sleepovers in rustic
campgrounds, comfor table
base camps or luxurious resorts
hidden away on remote islands.
Weather and sea conditions can
change quickly, so be prepared
and travel in a group. A number
of local kayaking companies
offer tours, lessons and rentals.
Enjoy your on the
water experience at
your own pace.
E xperienced, long- distance
kayakers tackle the West Coast
Vancouver Island North Marine
Trail, a newly designated route
that traces the coastline from
Port Hardy past Cape Scott
Provincial Park and all the way
to Tofino (www.bcmarinetrails.
org). After exploring the local
waters, kayakers heading north
to the spectacular Great Bear
Rainforest and Haida Gwaii sail
via BC Ferries from Port Hardy’s
Bear Cove terminal.
www.vancouverislandnorth.ca
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caving
Caving
seeking an accessible
yet thrillingly unique
new experience?
Vancouver Island North boasts the
highest concentration of caves in Canada.
Water has worked its alchemical magic
on the rugged landscape for hundreds of
thousands of years. Result: The relatively
soft karst (limestone) topography is riddled
with networks of subterranean getaways –
some suitable for beginners, others only for
the most expert cavers.
Little Huson Caves © Boomer Jerritt
Rookies of all ages can explore at Little
Huson Caves Regional Park, a 45-minute
drive south of Port McNeill, off the Zeballos
road. A self-guided tour here includes
stops at a natural rock bridge and walk-in,
cathedral-style cave.
+ LOCALS KNOW:
There is more to Little Huson Caves Regional Park than
the main land bridge feature. There are a number of
other caves to explore, a crystal clear river with a unique
limestone riverbank, and Little Huson Lake is a short hike
upstream. Bring a flashlight and remember that caution
should always be used when exploring caves.
14 | www.northislandgazette.com
Everyone can get an easy access look at
some of Canada’s finest karst formations
from viewing platforms set up along the
Alice Lake Loop. It includes stops at the
Eternal Fountain with its soothing waterfall,
and the Devil’s Bath, a very good example
of a cenote, much the same as those found
in the Yucatan.
For their part, experienced cavers can
explore some of the longest, deepest karst
caves in Canada. On the north Island,
several of these caves are concentrated in
two areas rich in limestone, the Quatsino
formation and the Parsons Bay formations
– the later is not exclusive to the north
Island region as it stretches farther south
on Vancouver Island. When exploring
underground always have at least two
sources of light and a helmet, and let
someone know where you are going and
when to expect your return. Guides are
strongly recommended for the more difficult
treks, and regional authorities ask that
cavers steer clear of any unmapped caves.
Information about the sport on Vancouver
Island can be found through the Canadian
Caver website at www.cancaver.ca.
acti v ities
|
diving
DID YOU KNOW:
Hooded Nudibranchs and Juvenile Giant Pacific Octopus © Jackie Hildering - www.TheMarineDectective.com
The reason you can’t see to the bottom in
these cold, dark waters is because there is
so much life! When you can see to the bottom,
there is far less plankton which fuels the
food web. For more on this see The Marine
Detective’s video clip by Googling “The
Reason You Can’t See to the Bottom...”.
Diving
www.TheMarineDetective.com
Zip up a dry suit, strap on a scuba cylinder
and sink below the surface into an incredible
marine wonderland. Vancouver Island North
is world-renowned for its scuba diving. These
cold (around 10°C), clear, current-fed waters
are home to an extraordinary diversity of life in
jaw-dropping density and colour.
In these rich waters, species often exceed the
limits given in field guides and unlike many
tropical areas, virtually no surface is left
uninhabited. You are truly visiting another world
of amazingly mysterious and diverse organisms.
It is common to encounter more than ten
species of nudibranch on a single dive. Giant
Pacific octopuses and wolf eels might be
spotted around their dens. And rockfish may
school around you. The rock walls are brightly
painted with red soft coral, multi-hued sponges
and vibrant anemones and
sea stars. It’s an underwater
photographer’s dreamscape.
Seemingly endless stretches
of coastline provide equally
endless dive opportunities.
Favorite spots in the area
include the concentration of
dive sites in the Broughton
and Blackfish Archipelagos;
the gardens of Zeballos; the
Decorated Warbonnet © Jackie Hildering - www.TheMarineDectective.com
expansive walls of Browning
Pass near God’s Pocket
Marine Provincial Park; and the vibrant life of resort. Whichever way you get your feet wet in
this addictive pastime, you’re sure to want to
Quatsino Narrows.
explore all that this cold-water diver’s paradise
Choose to rent gear (dry suits are a must) and
has to offer.
join a local operator on guided trips out to prime
locations; or settle into the comfort of a dive
www.vancouverislandnorth.ca
15
Places to Stay
Port Alice RV Park & Campground
& Oceanview Restaurant
l
u
f
i
t
u
Beeaanview
1201 Marine Dr.
oc
full hookups
cablevision
tenting
laundry facilities
wheelchair accessible
boat storage
coffee shop
full washrooms with large showers
Port Alice, BC
(250) 284-3422
Camping on Northern Vancouver Island
Breathtaking Estuary and Riverside Views
Many easy pull through sites | Beautifully treed tenting area
Free hot showers
and fiand
rewoodRiverside
| Laundry facilities
Breathtaking
Estuary
Views
Five minutes from BC Ferries | Clean, safe & family friendly environment
Many easy pull through
www.porthardyrvresort.com
Toll Free:sites
1-855-949-8118
8080
Goodspeed Road,
Porttenting
Hardy, British
Columbia
Beautifully
treed
area
Ozzie & Retta Vezina
AN OCEAN STORM
PORT HARDY RV RESORT
& CAMPGROUND
BED & BREAKFAST
Luxury Oceanfront
Accommodations with
beach access
YOUR HOSTS
Dave & Michele Andrews
TEL: 250.949.9611
CELL: 250.949.0358
www.anoceanstormbb.com | [email protected]
5885 Beaver Harbour Rd. Storeys Beach, Port Hardy B.C.
16 | www.northislandgazette.com
Free hot showers and firewood
Laundry facilities
Ocean
Comfort
B&B
Five minutes
from BC Ferries
Clean, safe & family friendly environment
www.porthardyrvresort.com
Toll Free: 1-855-949-8118
8080 Goodspeed Road, Port Hardy, British Columbia
2926 Woodland Drive, Box 256, Port McNeill, V0N 2R0
250-956-0002 | 250-230-4495
www.oceancomfort.net
Port Hardy harbour © Boomer Jerritt
Haida-Way Motor Inn
Upgraded rooms | Competitive rates
Kitchenettes, non-smoking. Fridge
microwave & coffee maker in each
room. Free WIFI. Cafe, Dining room &
Pub. Cold beer & wine store onsite.
1.800.956.3373 | 1.250.956.3373
1817 Campbell Way, Port McNeill
www.pmhotels.com
Quatsino Chalet
Scotia Bay Resort
Oceanside RV Parking
Fully services sites
Suite rentals | Boat Moorage
+1 250 284 3338
111 Nigei Street, Port Alice BC, Canada
250.949.6484 Fax 250.949.8486
Scotia Bay, Port Hardy
[email protected]
www.scotiabayresort.com
www.quatsinochalethotel.com
Cluxewe Resort
A Natural Wonder on Beautiful North Vancouver Island
Come camping or stay in our fully equipped cottage by the sea and eat in our oceanside cafe.
GET HERE!! Go fly fishing right on our beach, go kayaking, birdwatching, hiking, barbecuing and play in our playground.
“ A must do” come to the Cluxewe Cafe. Come enjoy our delicious food, relaxing atmosphere right on the ocean.
Call the Cafe today at 1-250-230-1006.
Cluxewe Resort
A Natural Wonder on Beautiful North Vancouver Island
Book your stay with us today at 1-250-949-0378
Email us at [email protected]
Check out our website www.cluxewe.com
www.vancouverislandnorth.ca
17
Beach at Grant Bay ©
Ways to Play and Relax
With a wealth of
recreational, entertaining,
and educational
alternatives, the towns of
Vancouver Island North
offer numerous options
for go-your-own-way
activities.
Check Visitor Centres, coffee shop bulletin
boards, the “Hot Spots” section of the North
Island Gazette, or www.vancouverislandnorth.
ca/events for the latest on festivals, concerts,
special events, exhibits and other fun
activities.
Shop for art, crafts, fashion and edible
goodies (like locally made smoked and
candied salmon). Galleries, retail outlets and
museum gift shops sell the splendid, natureinspired work of local artisans and First
Nations artists – jewelers, carvers, painters,
sculptors, photographers and textile workers
included.
Enjoy a drop-in work-out, yoga class and
much else at recreation centres in the region.
Pamper yourself with a spa treatment or a
massage from skilled bodyworkers.
Make a splash at the indoor pool in Port
Hardy, then relax in the hot tub and sauna.
Swim in Port McNeill’s outdoor pool from
May through August. Or take a refreshing dip
in the ocean or one of our many cold, crystal
clear lakes and rivers.
Plan a tour of museums found in Alert Bay,
Coal Harbour, Port Hardy, Port McNeill, Port
Alice, Quatsino, Telegraph Cove, Sointula
and even tiny Echo Bay and Winter Harbour,
each with their own unique focus and stories
to share. See page 21 for more details.
Experience First Nations culture and
traditional dances (July and August only)
at the ‘Namgis Big House in Alert Bay.
Just down the hill is the U’mista Cultural
Centre and its world-renowned collection of
potlatch regalia.
Learn about marine mammal conservation
and the diverse ecology of Johnstone Strait at
Telegraph Cove’s Whale Interpretive Centre.
Children’s games and interactive displays
make this a popular spot for youngsters.
Check out Port Hardy’s Quatse River Hatchery
and the Salmon Stewardship Centre to view
and learn more about the lifecycle of these
long-distance swimmers and their importance
to the local economy.
For more ideas on ways to play see www.
vancouverislandnorth.ca/things-to-do.
The Shed Outdoor Store
More than just bikes!
“Head to the Shed”
250.956.2686
#3C-311 Hemlock St., Port McNeill
(behind subway)
Mon-Sat 10am-6pm
Cove
Enjoy the Water?
Surfboard rentals are available.
Check out our largest selection of
summer apparel.
7053B Market St, Port Hardy
250.949.7553
18 | www.northislandgazette.com
Whale Interpretive Centre,
Telegraph Cove, BC
email: [email protected]
web: www.killerwhalecentre.org
Wind Surfing © Boomer Jerritt
Visit the WIC and:
• view an invertebrate Aquarium
• enjoy a “kids corner” of activities
• have easy access to the interpreters
• view marine education videos & presentations
• view articulated skeletons and further
Hours:
displays (baleen, invertebrate, plankton,
May-Sep Open Daily
Oct-May by appointment only whaling artifacts)
Box 2-3, Telegraph Cove, BC V0N 3J0
250.928.3129 (May - Sep) 250.928.3187 (Oct - May)
Cedar Park
Resort & Golfing
Seven Hills
Golf Country Club
•
•
•
•
A scenic 9 hole course nested in the
North Island forest and rated as one of BC’s
best 9 hole courses.
Par 35 rating 68.7/slope 128
Pro Shop | Restaurant (fully licensed)
Driving range Power cart rentals | Club rentals
RV sites - full hook-up
Seven Hills
Golf & Country Club
250-949-9818
sevenhillsgolf.ca
Take Port Alice Hwy turnoff, only 2 minutes away.
Health is where
the heart is.
RV Sites • Cottages • Golfing
www.cedarpark-resort.com
Privately Owned Resort Overlooking Historical
Haddington Island ~ 9 Hole Par 3 Golf course
~ Frisbee Disk Golfing ~ Full Hook up RV Sites
(spacious grassy areas) ~Wireless Internet service
While you are visiting come into
our store for all your needs.
Pharmacy Hours
Mon-Fri: 9am-9pm
Sat: 9am-6pm • Sun: 11am-4pm
PH: 250-956-2270
Box 130 Port McNeill, BC V0N 2R0
[email protected]
[email protected]
Airmiles can
now be collected
at Rexall
Patricia’s
Patricia’s Stitches
Want to get out and go shopping?
Peoples Drug Mart is the perfect place to go!
Making
Wearable
MakingYour
YourRepairable
Repairable Wearable
Wearable
Making
Your
Repairable
Full Service Pharmacy & Home Health Care Department
Professional
ProfessionalAlterations
Alterations
Professional
Alterations
Hemming
Hemming
Hemming
Zipper
ZipperReplacement
Replacement
Zipper
Replacement
Lightweightand
and
Lightweight
Lightweight
HeavyweightFabrics
Fabrics
Heavyweight
Fabrics
Heavyweight
Wide selection of Souvenirs,
Giftware and Much More!
Locally owned & operated
8925 Granville Street
Port Hardy » 250-949-6552
Port McNeill
1584 Broughton Blvd
250-956-3126
8810Seaview
SeaviewDrive,
Drive,Port
PortHardy,
Hardy,BC
BC
8810
Seaview
Drive,
Port
8810
250-949-6111
•
250-230-0670
250-949-6111 •• 250-230-0670
250-230-0670
250-949-6111
patty_fisher_@@hotmail.com
patty_fisher_
hotmail.com
www.vancouverislandnorth.ca
19
Telegraph Cove Boardwalk ©
Places to Eat
Specializing
in Cantonese
and Canadian
Fare for over
20 years
Eat, relax and enjoy Telegraph Cove Resort’s
beautiful Killer Whale Café or Old Saltery Pub
Great food. Great service. Beautiful view.
Dining Room | Lounge | Take-out
Catering | Banquets | Meeting rooms
250-949-8381
9040 Granville St. Port Hardy Inn
1.250.928.3155
www.telegraphcoveresort.com
Located on the historic
Telegraph Cove boardwalk
Scarlet Ibis
Restaurant & Pub
Something for Everyone.
Great daily lunch and dinner specials
8700 Hastings Street, Port Hardy BC
250.949.7811
20 | www.northislandgazette.com
Good food, good friends &
Good times for the entire family
Last stop going in ... first stop coming out
for Cape Scott Provincial Park.
250.288.3386 Downtown Holberg
Tues through Sat 12pm - 10pm and Sun & Mon 12pm - 9pm
Museums & Cultural Centres
Cultural explorers can dig deep into the
ancient, recent and living histories of
Vancouver Island North when visiting
a surprisingly diverse range of cultural
treasure boxes packed with colorful
displays and exhibits.
Go back to the source at the Port Hardy Museum and Archives,
which houses artifacts from a local archeological dig at Bear Cove – the
oldest known site of human habitation on Vancouver Island (circa 5850
BCE). Exhibits change regularly while shining thematic lights on First
Nations history, the Hudson’s
Bay Company and European
settlement.
The U’mista Cultural Centre
in Alert Bay is respected far and
wide as one of Canada’s finest
First Nations museums with
its unparalleled collection of
potlatch regalia. Modeled after
a big house, it is dedicated to
preserving the heritage of the
Kwakwaka’wakw. The gift shop
features superb jewelry, carvings,
textiles and more.
Forestry has been a leading
commercial activity on the North
Island since European settlers
arrived in the 1860s. Based in
a sturdy log house, the Port
inhabitants of Johnstone Strait.
Highlights include interactive
displa ys, a k id ’s cor ner,
educational films and the skeletal
remains of whales, dolphins and
other wildlife.
Learn about the perilous journey
of salmon and their incredible
survival stories at the Quatse
Salmon Stewardship Centre
in Port Hardy. Located beside
a working hatchery, the centre
features interactive exhibits,
games and a family theatre.
The Port Alice Heritage
Centre, above the fire hall, offers
a look at the town’s intriguing
history. It’s also the site of the
Visitor Information Centre and a
DID YOU KNOW:
It only takes 2 ½ hours to drive from the Comox
Valley to Port McNeill. The communities of
Vancouver Island North are closer than you
might think!
McNeill Heritage Museum
tracks local history with archival
photos, exhibits and vintage
logging equipment.
An easy walk from the ferry
landing, the Sointula Museum
is home to artifacts, archival
records and displays related to
the colourful history of Malcolm
Island. A primary focus is on the
Finnish immigrants who arrived
here at the beginning of the
1900s to launch a short-lived
utopian commune.
B o a te r s h e a d i n g n o r t hwe s t
across Johnstone Strait and
Blackfish Sound are advised
to linger in Echo Bay and visit
Billy Procter’s Museum and
Gift Shop. The author and lifelong area resident has collected
fascinating memorabilia from the
logging, fishing and trapping eras.
Whale Interpretive Centre © Boomer Jerritt
Telegraph Cove’s family friendly
Whale Interpretive Centre
is dedicated to raising public
awareness about the fragile
ecosystem and migrator y
gift shop that sells locally made
art, crafts and greeting cards.
Discover the rich history of
Coal Harbour as a whaling
station and military base thanks
to resident Joel Eilertsen, who
welcomes visitors to his collection
in the town’s old Air Force hangar.
Artifacts and archival material
are stored and displayed in the
Quatsino Museum across from
the government dock. It’s open
daily in July and August in the
early afternoon, and throughout
the year during weekend lunch
hours. Email curator Gwen
Hansen for a private showing:
[email protected].
Take a look back at the unique
story of a remote coastal
community. The Winter Harbour
historical photo collection is
open to the public in the museum
room near the Government Wharf
Monday, Wednesday and Friday
9 am – 1 pm or by appointment
(250) 969-4331.
www.vancouverislandnorth.ca
21
Travelling
AHOYBC.com is a new, interactive travel
planning tool and travel resource for boaters
exploring the west coast of British Columbia –
see the Broughton Archipelago/Johnstone Strait
and Vancouver Island West sections for details on
boating in the North Island region.
Telegraph Cove Sunset © T. Meinhold
DID YOU KNOW:
www.drivebc.ca
bc road report
1.800.550.4997
All roads on the North Island lead to Hwy 19. Routes into
communities like Sayward, Port Alice and Coal Harbour are modern,
paved thoroughfares. Other wilderness retreats and camping areas
are only accessible via gravel logging roads. Visibility along these
often very dusty roads can be restricted, so extreme caution is
recommended. Remember: Logging trucks always have the right of
way. See the Resource Road User Safety Guide at www.bcforestsafe.
org/files/tk_pdfs/gde_resrd.pdf.
Discover the
North Island
Ferries and water taxis are vital transportation links. Sointula (25
minute sailing) and Alert Bay (45 minute sailing) are a short ferry ride
from Port McNeill. Port Hardy’s Bear Cove terminal is the gateway
for sailings to Prince Rupert and connections to the Central Coast.
Contact www.BCFerries.com, or phone 1-888-223-3779. If you are
looking to charter a boat to a coastal destination check at the Visitor
Centres for assistance in selecting a water taxi service provider.
By bus
Monday to Saturday
Bus routes serve:
Port McNeill
Port Hardy
Fort Rupert
Quatsino/Coal Harbour
Zone fares apply.
Call or visit the website for info.
0327
Regional District of
Mount Waddington
Transit Info 250·956·3151 • www.bctransit.com
22 | www.northislandgazette.com
When travelling by water, Channel 16 is strictly reserved for
emergency communications. Weather information is available by
calling 250-949-7148, or by tuning into Channels 21B or Wx 1, 2, or
3 on your VHF radio. Harbour Authorities, marina resorts, and fuel
docks monitor Channel 66. See AHOYBC.com for west coast and
Vancouver Island ocean boating information, including interactive
maps displaying marina, harbour, and facility markers for trip
planning and travel.
Port Hardy airport has scheduled daily service to Vancouver and
beyond. Charter companies in Port McNeill, Alert Bay and Port
Hardy offer scenic flights and service to smaller communities.
Seaplanes and helicopters can be booked for flightseeing trips while
also dropping off passengers at wilderness fishing lodges.
Tofino Bus provides daily scheduled bus service that connects the
North Island with mid and south Island destinations and connections
to Vancouver. It is recommended that you book your ticket in
advance by calling 866-986-3466 or online at www.tofinobus.com.
Pick-up and drop-off available in Port Hardy, Port McNeill, Port Alice
turn-off, Woss and Sayward junction. Local transit links North Island
communities and is wheelchair accessible. For scheduling and fare
information, contact Mount Waddington Transit (250-956-3151)
www.transitbc.com/regions/mtw.
First Nations
Alert Bay on Cormorant Island is
internationally renowned for its storytelling,
summertime dance performances and the
potlatch treasures housed inside the mustsee U’mista Cultural Centre. The world’s
tallest totem pole stands vigil outside the
‘Namgis Big House.
“take a canoe trip or enjoy a salmon bbq with
first nations guides.”
the colourful displays of traditional and
contemporary artwork in many locations
throughout the village – keep your eye out
for a favourite piece to add to your personal
collection.
Fort Rupert on the southern outskirts of Port
Hardy is home to the Kwakiutl First Nation.
Take a walking tour of this friendly enclave
by the sea and watch for internationally
renowned carvers creating magnificent art
from chunks of timber.
Climb aboard in Port Hardy for a culturally
inspired adventure to the world’s fastest
navigable tidal rapids where your guide will
help you visualize this area as it was years
ago through stories of their traditional
territory. Or launch your marine based
cultural adventure from Telegraph Cove
or Port McNeill to connect with the past,
present, and future of the Kwakwaka’wakw
people on a tour to the Village of Alert Bay,
or Yukusam (Hanson) Island.
© Destination BC/ Jordan Manley
For more than 8000 years, Canada’s First
Nations people have shared this wild
coastal region with eagles, black bears, orca
and salmon. After a long period of cultural
repression, ancient traditions are again
thriving as the Kwakwaka’wakw First Nation
preserves and celebrates their culture
through art, dance, music, language and a
sustainable day-to-day relationship with the
natural world.
See www.vancouverislandnorth.ca/culturaltours for listings.
And visit an oceanfront graveyard filled
with majestic memorial poles (please
view respectfully from the road). Enjoy
DID YOU KNOW:
In partnership with FirstVoices,
a language legacy program,
the U’mista Cultural Society
has released a Kwak’wala app
in the iTunes store to share the
native language of the Kwak’wala
speaking people.
www.vancouverislandnorth.ca
23
date
event
location
JAN
Sat, January 16
Sat, January 23 North Island Concert Society presents Locarno
Cain Cup
Port Hardy
Mount Cain Ski Area
FEB
Sat – Sun, February 6 - 7
Sat, February 13
Sat & Sun, February 21 - 22
Back Country Festival
North Island Concert Society presents Dockside Drive
Telefest
Mount Cain Ski Area
Port Hardy
Mount Cain Ski Area
MAR
Sun, March 6
Sat, March 19
North Island Concert Society presents Bergmann Duo
Kid’s Fest
Port Hardy
Mount Cain Ski Area
APR
Fri – Sun, April 22 - 24
Doug Innes Memorial Spring Bird Count
Sointula
MAY
Sun, May 8
Fri – Mon, May 20 - 23
Sat – Sun, May 21 - 22
Sointula Seniors Plant Sale
Sointula Baseball Tournament
Tri-Port Motocross Race Weekend
Sointula
Sointula
7 Mile Track (just north of Port McNeill)
JUNE
Wed, June 8
Thurs – Sun, June 16 - 19
Fri – Sun, June 17 - 19
Sat – Sun, June 18 - 19
Oceans Day Celebration
58th Annual June Sports
BC’s Family Fishing Weekend
1/8 Mile Drag Racing
Port Hardy
Alert Bay
BC
Port McNeill Airport
Canada Day Regatta
Canada Day Celebrations
Port McNeill Logger Sports
Sointula
Port Hardy, Port McNeill & Port Alice
Port McNeill
JULY
Fri, July 1
Fri, July 1
Sat, July 2
Every Thurs, Fri, Sat
July 7 – August 27 Fri – Sun, July 15-17
Fri, July 22
Fri – Sun, July 22 - 24
Sat, July 23
Sat – Sun, July 23 - 24
Sat, July 30
Sat, July 30
Sun, July 31
Sun, July 31
T’sasala Cultural Group
Traditional Native Dance Performances
FILOMI Days & Port Hardy’s 50th Anniversary
34th Annual Alert Bay Sea Fest
9th Annual Alert Bay Art Fest
15th Annual Alert Bay Music Fest
1/8 Mile Drag Racing
Telegraph Cove Boardwalk Craft Fair
Alert Bay Salmon Run
Alert Bay 360 Eco Paddle
Telegraph Cove Fishing Derby
Alert Bay
Port Hardy
Alert Bay
Alert Bay
Alert Bay
Port McNeill Airport
Telegraph Cove
Alert Bay
Alert Bay
Telegraph Cove
AUGUST
Every Thurs, Fri, Sat
July 7 – August 27 Sat, August 13
Sat, August 20
Sat – Sun, August 20 - 21
Fri – Sun, August 26 - 28
T’sasala Cultural Group
Traditional Native Dance Performances
Annual Sointula Pet Parade
OrcaFest
1/8 Mile Drag Racing
Salmon Days
Alert Bay
Sointula
Port McNeill
Port McNeill Airport
Sointula
SEPT
Sat – Sun, September 10 - 11
Sun, September 25
Mount Waddington Regional Fall Fair
Rivers Day
Port Hardy
Port Hardy
OCT
Mon, October 31
Mon, October 31
Halloween Costume Crawl
Halloween Fireworks
Port Hardy
Port Hardy
NOV
Tues, November 1
Fri – Sun, November 18 - 20
Pumpkin Patch Walk
Sointula Winter Festival
Port Hardy
Sointula
DEC
2016 Events - Vancouver Island North
2016 Events
What’s Happening here.
Sun, December 4
January 1 (2017)
Santa Claus Parade
Polar Bear Swim
Port Hardy
Port Hardy & Port McNeill
All events are subject to change, please visit www.vancouverislandnorth.ca/events for most current listing.
24 | www.northislandgazette.com
Link River Regional Park
www.rdmw.bc.ca/regional-services/parks
250.288.3682
250.956.3301
Marble River Provincial Park
www.bcparks.ca
Port Alice RV Park
1201 Marine Drive
250.284.3422
PORT HARDY
Georgie Lake
www.sitesandtrailsbc.ca
Port Hardy RV Resort & Campground
www.porthardyrvresort.com
855.949.8118
Quatse River Campground
www.quatsecampground.ca
866.949.2395
Scotia Bay Resort
www.scotiabayresort.com
250.949.6484
Seven Hills Golf & RV Park
www.sevenhillsgolf.ca
250.949.9818
Stryker Bay RV Park
[email protected]
888.839.8022
PORT McNEILL
Wildwoods Campsite
www.wildwoodscampsite.com
250.949.6753
Broughton Strait Campground
[email protected]
250.956.3224
Cedar Park Resort & Golfing
www. cedarparkresort-rv.com
250.956.2270
Cluxewe Resort
www.cluxeweresort.com
250.949.0378
Bere Point
www.rdmw.bc.ca/regional-services/parks
250.956.3301
Harmony Shores Campground
www.harmonyshores.ca
250.949.0201
Sointula Hostel
www.sointulahostel.com
250.208.8939
Alder Bay Resort
www.alderbayresort.com
888.956.4117
Telegraph Cove Resort
www.telegraphcoveresort.com
800.200.4665
Telegraph Cove Marina & RV Park
www.telegraphcove.ca
877.835.2683
Cape Scott Provincial Park
www.bcparks.ca
Raft Cove Provincial Park
www.bcparks.ca
San Josef Heritage Park
250.282.3682
Kwaksistah Campground
www.rdmw.bc.ca/regional-services/parks
250.956.3301
Outpost at Winter Harbour
www.winterharbour.ca
250.969.4333
Winter Harbour Marina & RV
www.winterharbourlodge.ca
250.969.4293
Bonanza Lake
www.sitesandtrailsbc.ca
Schoen Lake Provincial Park
www.bcparks.ca
Vernon Lake
www.sitesandtrailsbc.ca
Woss Lake
www.sitesandtrailsbc.ca
Clint Beek (Keogh Lake)
www.sitesandtrailsbc.ca
Atluck Lake
Via Atluck Rd, off the main road to Zeballos
Ida Lake
www.sitesandtrailsbc.ca
Kathleen Lake
www.sitesandtrailsbc.ca
SAYWARD
SOINTULA
San Josef Heritage Park
TELEGRAPH
COVE
Nahwitti Lake
www.sitesandtrailsbc.ca
WEST COAST
Cape Scott Provincial Park
www.bcparks.ca | www.capescottpark.com
Nothing says summer like tent camping. Vancouver Island North caters to
those who enjoy sleeping under the stars with options ranging from fullservice family friendly spots to basic wilderness sites. Campgrounds in the
region are provided by a mix of operators: forest companies, the Regional
District of Mount Waddington, BC Provincial Parks, the Ministry of Natural
Resource Operations, and private owners. The list here is only a partial
summary of regional recreation sites. Please check at local Visitor Centres
for further information.
WINTER
HARBOUR
250.974.5213
WOSS /
NIMPKISH
Alert Bay Campground
www.alertbay.ca
Elk Creek Forest
Recreation Site
250.282.0018
Kelsey Bay RV & Campground
250.282.3762
Sayward Valley Resort
250.282.3204
Village Centre Campground
250.282.5512
ZEBALLOS &
ZEBALLOS ROAD
PORT ALICE
HOLBERG
ALERT
BAY
Camping & Recreation Sites
Anutz Lake
On River Main Rd, off the main road to Zeballos
Cevallos Campsite
www.zeballos.com
250.761.4229
Fair Harbour Marina & Campground
www.gatewaytokyuquot.com 250.483.3382 | 250.287.2223
Resolution Campsite
4km from Zeballos, on Fair Harbour Road
Swan Song In Zeballos
Zeballos RV Park
www.zeballos.com
250.761.4229
www.vancouverislandnorth.ca
25
26 | www.northislandgazette.com
Port Hardy
RETURN-IT CENTRE
North Island’s only full refund
beer & bottle depot.
We take at no charge: Styrofoam | Tin Cans | Light Bulbs
Small Appliances | Batteries | Electronics | Glass Jars
All Curb Side Recycling | Full refund on all Beverage Containers
Paint and Cardboard
Open 4 days a week Thurs – Sun 9:30am-4:30pm
After Hours Bulk Dropoff Call 250-949-1668
9300 Trustee Road, Port Hardy 250-949-7700
Don’t leave
town without it!
The great thing about having a Save-onMore card is that its benefits travel with
you. But don’t worry if you don’t have a
card. Just sign up in store and start taking
advantage of the benefits right away.
Thunderbird Mall Port Hardy
250-949-6455
Hours: 8am-9pm everyday
www.overwaitea.com
B.C.’s very own food people.
www.vancouverislandnorth.ca
27
By logging road or boat, outdoor adventurers
can access prime West Coast recreation sites
such as Side Bay, Gooding Cove, Harvey Cove,
Brooks Peninsula, Winter Harbour, Alice Lake,
Link River, Victoria Lake and more!
Activities
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Fishing
Kayaking
Mountain Biking
Hiking
Golf
Scuba Diving
Services
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Accommodations & Campground
Restaurants & Groceries
Boat Launch & Fuel Services
Gas Station & Fishing
Bank & ATM
Post Office
Liquor Store
Tourism Centre
Fishing & Sightseeing Charters
Health Centre
Library
Free Sani-Dump
Photos by Darrell McIntosh
28 | www.northislandgazette.com
www.portalice.ca
[email protected]
250-284-3391
Port Alice © Darrell McIntosh
Port Alice
gateway to the wild and wonderful west coast
www . portalice . ca
visitor centre 250.284.3391
Do-it-yourself adventurers find peace, lovely
west-coast scenery and crowd-free access to
the great outdoors in Port Alice. Perched on
a pretty hillside facing the Neroutsos Inlet,
this thriving community is the most southerly
access point to Quatsino Sound and invites
kayakers, scuba divers, charter fishing guides
and recreational fishers bound for the open
Pacific.
The town is a base camp for expeditions via
boat or logging road to such remote getaways
as Side Bay, Gooding Cove, Harvey Cove,
Brooks Peninsula and Klaskino Inlet. Inquire
at the Tourism Centre beside the town office
for directions before heading out on the back
roads. Public launch facilities in town offer
ocean access for travelers towing their own
boat or kayak. Or get out on the water with a
charter fishing or wildlife-viewing guide.
Link River and Spruce Bay campgrounds at
nearby Alice and Victoria Lakes are both
favorite spots for freshwater fishing and
outdoor recreation. The newly developed
Alice Lake Loop Recreational Corridor
provides easy access to view geological
wonders like Devil’s Bath and the Eternal
Fountain, part of the vast stretches of
limestone that make Vancouver Island North
prime caving country.
Wilderness hiking is at its best along the
Marble River Trail leading to Bear Falls and
Emerald Pools. Access the trail at Marble
River Park and campsite along scenic Hwy 30
to Port Alice.
“Hundreds of species of
birds visit neroutsos
inlet throughout the year”
In town, stroll the Sea
accessible pathway
community’s coastline.
the short distance
to Walk-out Island
when the tide is low,
and don’t forget your
binoculars!
These same waters
are home to orca,
humpback, and grey
whales, seals, sea
otters, California and
Steller sea lions, and
migrating salmon.
Walk, a wheelchairthat follows the
Have a picnic, hike
Cyclists of all skill levels tackle the trails of
the Rumble Mountain. Golfers head for
the Port Alice Golf and Country Club, a
challenging nine-hole course set against
glorious mountain and ocean vistas; it once
earned recognition from Ripley’s Believe It Or
Not! as the only course in the world requiring
golfers to play around or over an Anglican
church (which has since been removed).
The Tourism & Heritage Center offers
information for travelers, a small gift shop
stocked with souvenirs made by local
artisans, and a well-documented look into
Port Alice’s past. The town’s history dates
back to the opening of a pulp mill circa
World War I. It became the province’s first
instant municipality in 1965 when the town
was relocated from the mill site to its present
Inlet Haven B&B
• totally private
entrances
• all rooms nonsmoking
• wireless Internet
• pets & children
welcome
Port Alice,
Po
Port
Alilice
A
c , BC
ce
C
www.inlethaven.com
[email protected]
250-284-3216
Jim & Bonnie
Overland
www.vancouverislandnorth.ca
29
Grant bay © Steven Fines - www.natureone.ca
“ Hiking, surfing or fishing adventures are top priority for most visitors headed to the northwest coast of Vancouver Island.”
Holberg &
Winter Harbour
The village of Holberg is worth a long linger,
and not strictly to enjoy the pub food and
welcoming ambience at the renowned
Scarlet Ibis. Visit Ronning’s Garden, a circa
1910 homestead on the old San Josef Wagon
Road whose vast and exotic grounds sit in
the middle of the rainforest. This unique
garden, started by pioneering settler Bernt
Ronning, complete with monkey puzzle trees
and fascinating plants from around the
world, almost disappeared when he left his
homestead, but has now been restored.
Hiking, surfing or kayaking adventures
are top priority for most visitors headed to
the northwest coast of Vancouver Island.
Cape Scott Provincial Park is an unspoiled
30 | www.northislandgazette.com
wonderland with its deserted beaches,
sculpted coastline and marathon hiking
trails. Raft Cove Provincial Park attracts day
trippers and campers who set up their tents
on the sandy beach. And please keep it quiet,
but surfers who prize seclusion and bestkept-secret beachfronts have rediscovered
Raft Cove’s big waves. Other beaches to be
explored are San Josef Bay and Hecht Beach.
way to learn some of the history of this
remote community. Expect to head home
with harbour photos of the playful sea otters
that pop their curious heads above water
and float on their backs. Kayakers will also
put their waterproof digital cameras to good
use when exploring the many paddling
adventures available in Quatsino Sound via
a Winter Harbour launch.
From Holberg, the gravel road ends at Winter
Harbour. This tiny and historic fishing village
offers safe year-round anchorage, a seaside
boardwalk and access to oceanfront hikes
along Botel Park Trail and out to the prime
beachcombing at Grant Bay. The hamlet’s
museum is an informative and entertaining
The village of Winter Harbour shines during
the sport fishing season. Fishing lodges,
campgrounds and marinas fill with folks
looking for the ultimate fishing destination.
The close proximity to the abundant Pacific
west coast makes Winter Harbour the ideal
spot for catching the big one.
Fishing Boat © Boomer Jerritt
Echoes and evidence of boom times in a
classic west-coast rainforest environment
can be found on journeys to what was once
the site of the world’s largest floating logging
camp. Holberg is an hour’s drive northwest
of Port Hardy and the last stop before Cape
Scott Provincial Park. The gravel logging
road that takes you there is part of the fun,
especially when stopping at the Shoe Tree
– started as a joke by a local resident and
now a Vancouver Island legend thanks to the
hundreds of boots, sandals and shoes on its
trunk and slung across its branches.
© Boomer Jerritt
Alert Bay
home of the killer whale
www . alertbay . ca
visitor centre 250.974.5024
Alert Bay is a rare, precious and unique First Nation cultural tourism
experience. Said to be one of the last authentic fishing villages on
Canada’s west coast, it’s easily accessible via a scenic 35-minute
ferry ride from Port McNeill.
Alert Bay offers visitors museums, art galleries, a bustling marina,
friendly locals and cozy accommodations and restaurants set within
an unparalleled northern Pacific wilderness environment. The town
centre, with its colorful heritage buildings dating back to the late
1800’s, sits on the sheltered western coastline of Cormorant Island.
‘Yalis is home to the ‘Namgis of the Kwakwaka’wakw (Kwakwala
speaking people).
per formances take place
Thursday to Saturday in July
and until the third weekend
in August. Visit the original
‘Namgis Burial Grounds to see
memorial and other Totem Poles
(please view respectfully from
the road only) as well as other
Totem Poles and Archways
spread throughout the Island.
Join in unique adventures such
as Cedar Bark weaving, NusaStory telling, salmon barbecues
and island tours provided by
local guides.
Cormorant Island has more
than 16 km (10 miles) of hiking
and biking trails. The Ecological
Park above town features
a marshland boardwalk (a
favorite spot for bald eagles
and other birds) and an easy
forest trail network marked with
interpretive signage. Embark
from the community of Alert
Bay for a whale watching,
fishing or kayak expedition.
Steep climbs may make parts
of the island a challenge, so it
is recommended that visitors
bring their vehicles.
U’mista Cultural Centre, an internationally-renowned cultural
centre, showcases the famed “Potlatch Collection” of ceremonial
regalia, confiscated from the Kwakwaka’wakw in 1922 and reclaimed
from various institutions and private collections around the world.
U’mista is a great place to start a remarkable First Nation cultural
experience. Don’t miss the Alert Bay Library-Museum located at
116 Fir Street. The museum offers additional First Nation and other
pieces and artifacts found during the early permanent settlement
of Alert Bay.
Towering above the traditional Big House in ‘Yalis is the world’s
tallest Totem Pole, carved in two sections by six Kwakwaka’wakw
artists (it was originally 53m/173 feet, but the top 10 feet of the
pole fell to the ground during a storm in 2007). Watch a traditional
dance performance by the T’sasala Cultural Group in the Big
House, the only time the Big House is open for viewing. Regular
www.vancouverislandnorth.ca
31
Steven Fines © www.natureone.ca
Quatsino
“step back to a simpler
way of life still linked to the land...”
www . quatsino . org
In 1894 Norwegian colonists arrived in
Quatsino Sound aboard the steamship
Mischief, with shared dreams of a prosperous
life in this remote North Island wilderness.
They chose an idyllic stretch of sunny shoreline
and began work to build their new community.
The land, forest and sea provided an income
for these hardy souls and the community soon
became a central hub for the Quatsino Sound
area, providing goods and services to support
the influx of settlers and job seekers.
Nestled near the government wharf is historic
St. Olaf’s Anglican Church. Dating back to
1897 and originally built as a small one room
school, it is one of the oldest buildings still
in use on northern Vancouver Island. The
‘new’ Quatsino Elementary School was built
32 | www.northislandgazette.com
in 1933 overlooking the government wharf, is
one of the last one-room schools in BC. With
a minimum enrollment of just six students,
it offers a unique and fantastic educational
opportunity. The community’s Bergh Cove
Organic Schoolyard Garden now shares this
site and provides fresh produce during the
harvest season.
The Quatsino Museum & Archives, just across
from the government dock, provides free highspeed internet access and light snacks in
addition to offering a glimpse at Quatsino’s
rich and diverse 121 year history. Open from 1
to 2 PM daily during July & August and every
weekend from September to June. Special
openings can be arranged by contacting
[email protected].
Today the tiny hamlet of Quatsino, which is
15 minutes by water taxi (Quatsino Sound
Marine Transport 250-949-6358) and 6
minutes by air (Air Cab 250-949-6371) , is a
quiet place where change comes slowly. With
just 8 km of gravel road connecting homes,
fishing lodges and retreats that stretch
single file along the shoreline, residents
and visitors alike take pleasure in a breath
of fresh air as they step back to a simpler
way of life still linked to the land, forest and
sea. Immerse yourself in solitude at one of
Quatsino’s picturesque lodges, experience
the abundance on a guided fishing trip, kayak
along the quiet inland waters of the Sound
or surround yourself in natural beauty while
hiking the Colony Lake Trail.
DID YOU KNOW:
When it closed in 1995 the Island
Copper Mine, located between Port
Hardy and Coal Harbour, was deeper
than the Red Sea and at one time was
the lowest excavated point on earth.
Coal Harbour
Road trips on the North Island are a treat
for those who relish leisurely, spontaneous
explorations that deliver memorable vistas,
dozens of digital snapshots and many
surprising rewards. One such detour off the
highway just south of Port Hardy leads to Coal
Harbour, a marine hub providing access to the
fertile fishing grounds of Quatsino Sound.
Over the last century Coal Harbour has been
a mining town, military base and whaling
station. Today it’s the perfect launch point
for fishing charters, boaters, kayakers and
campers heading into the scenic coastal
waters and old-growth forests of Vancouver
Island North’s wilderness areas. Explore Coal
Harbour itself to learn the history and meet
some of the locals, among whom is a growing
community of artisans.
Step back in time and take a look into the
history of Coal Harbour. There is a small
space at the Aircab float plane hangar,
near the marina, that is filled with a private
collection, open to visitors, of local artifacts
from the town’s logging and whaling periods
as well as its time during the Second World
War as a Royal Canadian Air Force base.
On the grounds is the mammoth 6m/20 ft
jawbone of a blue whale – evidence that
Canada’s last whaling station operated here
until the mid-1960s.
The ultimate experience
in Sportfishing and kayaking on
the west coast of Vancouver Island,
B.C. Canada
Something old is new again in Coal Harbour.
The Hornsby Steam Crawler, a one-of-akind, custom build steam crawler tractor has
returned to the community for public display.
This unique piece of machinery was inspired
by the Yukon Gold Rush and customized
for use in the forest industry on the British
Columbia Coast.
Boaters get provisions, coffee and sandwiches
at the Whale’s Reach community store.
Quatsino First Nations operate a marina in
Coal Harbour that has serviced moorage,
public washrooms, showers and a laundromat.
QUATSINO
LODGE
Located in Quatsino
Sound, Quatsino
Lodge is the perfect
choice for fishing
adventures, corporate getaways and
family vacations.
Phone/Fax 250.338.7473
TF 1.866.279.5061
www.quatsinolodge.com
[email protected]
www.vancouverislandnorth.ca
33
A million dollar view....
Passionate about ethical viewing & conservation!
GLEN LYON
INN & SUITES
Port Hardy
Modern Port Hardy Accommodations
with Nature at Its Best!
rated “excellent”
Wir sprechen Deutsch!
contact us for group tours & custom charters
whale watching & grizzly bear excursions
1-866-501-6722 or 250-287-7008
adventurewhalewatching.com
campbell river across from fisherman’s Wharf
Enjoy nature with us!
FISHING, KAYAKING, WHALE-WATCHING, HIKING
44 deluxe rooms with spectacular ocean views
Business suites and family rooms | Pub and restaurant
on premises | Close to town and ferry terminal
Free wireless internet
Small meeting room (10-12 people)
www.glenlyoninn.com
6435 Hardy Bay Rd, Port Hardy
250-949-7115 | 1.877.949.7115
34 | www.northislandgazette.com
Panoramic ocean view from the rooms.
Ferry shuttle available through North Island Transportation.
Pet-friendly rooms available • Wireless internet in the building
Senior/corporate discount rates available off the peak season.
Some triple rooms available.
All rooms are accessible by stairs only.
www.northshoreinnph.com
NORTH SHORE INN
[email protected]
7370 Market Street, Port Hardy
250-949-8500 • 1-877-949-8516
Pacific white-sided dolphin © Destination BC/ Jordan Manley
“ Orcas, humpbacks and dolphins can be found offshore in Queen Charlotte Strait...”
Port Hardy
Live the Adventure
www . visitporthardy . com
visitor centre 1.866.427.3901
Easy access to the great outdoors, creature comforts, shopping
and dining, cooperative and First Nations art galleries, plenty of
accommodation options and ancient archeological finds. It’s all
available in Vancouver Island North’s largest centre (population:
4,000), a friendly town with developing cultural and eco-tourism
industries that sits pretty at the very edge of the coastal wilderness.
BC Ferries’ famous “Inside Passage” long-haul sailing to Prince Rupert
on the mainland arrives and departs from nearby Bear Cove, as do
summer-only sailings on the “Discovery Coast” connector route. The
Inside Passage journey was recently rated as one of the most beautiful
ferry trips in the world by the discerning editors of Travel+Leisure
magazine. Port Hardy is also the main departure point for water taxis
and land shuttles destined for Cape Scott Provincial Park’s magnificent
North Coast Trail.
“Live the Adventure” is Port Hardy’s motto, and many ferry passengers
wisely book rooms and explore this remote yet civilized part of the
world for a few fascinating days before or after their sailings. Landbased adventurers discover hiking, caving and wildlife such as bald
eagles and black bears, the latter frequently seen grazing alongside
local roads and wandering the banks of the Quatse River. Wildlifewatching daytrips depart from a bustling town marina packed with
fishing vessels and visiting pleasure craft. Orcas, humpbacks and
dolphins can be found offshore in Queen Charlotte Strait while longer
treks out to sea head to grizzly bear country in Smith and Knight Inlets
along the mainland coast.
Also nearby is the big-wave
surfing at Raft Cove, world-class
scuba diving at God’s Pocket
Provincial Marine Park, and
freshwater fishing in local lakes
and river systems. Coal Harbour,
just 20 minutes away by car,
provides boaters and kayakers
with a convenient launch point
for trips to the wild west coast
via Quatsino Sound. A bumpy
ride of less than an hour past the
village of Holberg leads to the
windswept, see-forever beaches
of Cape Scott Provincial Park.
Curious adventurers meanwhile,
can get a taste of an eerie
subterranean world at Devil’s
Bath, one geological wonder in
a series of them included in the
Alice Lake Loop tour.
Another pleasurable option is to
simply hang out in Port Hardy and
relish the myriad of diversions
found within town limits. Picnic
with the family on stretches of
sand at Storey’s Beach. Shop for
locally produced art, crafts, and
seafood (the town is famous for
its smoked and candied salmon).
Snap pictures of the chainsaw
carvings at Carrot Park. Thrill
to stock car and motocross
races in the summer. Step back
into the past at the Port Hardy
Museum and Archives. Check
out the work of local artists at
the cooperative art gallery. Or
take a pleasant, forest-shaded
riverside stroll from the marina to
the Quatse Salmon Stewardship
Centre, an interpretive exhibition
space and hatchery rolled into
one modern facility.
Totem poles dotted throughout
Port Hardy are a tribute to the
people who have lived off the
resources of land and sea here
for over 8,000 years. Today’s
Kwakiutl First Nation reside in
Fort Rupert, a few minutes south
of town with its colourful murals,
totems, cemetery, and white shell
beach. Internationally renowned
carvers demonstrate their skills,
crack jokes and share stories
at the Copper Maker Gallery, a
favorite stop for art collectors.
www.vancouverislandnorth.ca
35
Marine Electronics
& Supplies
✮ Certified inboard/
outboard mechanic
✮ Sales & Service
Wildwoods is the place to come
for great camping & fishing.
Full facilities ■ Small boat wharf
Pets allowed ■ Showers and more!
Family owned & operated
Stryker
Electronics Ltd.
6710 Hardy Bay Road Port Hardy
250-949-8022 » 1-888-839-8022
[email protected]
Day Tours
250-902-WOLF (9653)
Departure Point:
Port McNeill
Sea Wolf Adventures invites you to come and journey with
us to view and learn about local grizzly bears, whales,
dolphins, and First Nations culture on an intimate tour
with few guests: 6 people max. Breakfast, lunch, and drinks
included. Marine head onboard.
www.seawolfadventures.ca
36 | www.northislandgazette.com
Wildwoods
Campground
250.949.6753
Located on Bear Cove Road
Box 801, Port Hardy, BC
or 250.949.7454
www.wildwoodscampsite.com
DID YOU KNOW:
In Port Hardy, you can camp in an
ancient forest and still be within
walking distance to town.
Red cedar in the rainforest © Destination BC/ Tom Ryan
The town’s roots are saluted annually during
FILOMI Days on the third weekend in July.
FILOMI stands for ‘fishing-logging-mining,’
and its namesake festival has become
Port Hardy’s signature summer event. The
festivities include a salmon derby, boatbuilding contest, street hockey and volleyball
tournaments, the Tri-Port Dragon Boat
Society Regatta, a parade, and spectacular
fireworks display. Summer gets underway in
June with Oceans Day. In the fall, costumed
kids spill out on to Market Street for trickor-treating during the Costume Crawl, while
grinning jack-o’-lanterns and a haunted house
highlight family friendly Halloween fun during
the Pumpkin Patch Walk. And Christmas is
heralded with a Santa Claus parade in early
December.
Hiking is one of Port Hardy’s most popular
pastimes, and there are trails galore for all
fitness levels in town and within a short drive.
The newest is the Fort Rupert Trail, which
follows an ancient First Nations path from
Bear Cove Road to Storey’s Beach; the hourlong one-way ramble winds through the forest,
across a boardwalk and alongside a sparkling
lake. Far more rugged and challenging is the
11 km out-and-back Tex Lyon Trail, which
can be accessed from Storey’s Beach. The
Marble River Trail off the road to Port Alice
offers an easy hike out to salmon-spawning
viewing areas at Bear Falls. The Nahwitti
Trail near Holberg is another gentle route
through old-growth giants to Nahwitti Lake.
And day hikers get a teaser of the marathon
hiking possibilities in Cape Scott Provincial
Park by driving west past the Shoe Tree to the
park’s trailhead and walking the 2.5 km out
to breathtaking San Josef Bay, the trail takes
about 45 minutes on a well groomed trail to
get to the beach where you will walk out on
to a huge stretch of white sand. The trail to
San Josef Bay is accessible for high clearance
“BOB” style strollers and power assisted
wheelchairs equipped for gravel trails with
some sloping sections.
The staff at the Visitor Centre is happy to
assist with information on local attractions
and activities. It’s open year-round in the heart
of town on Market Street. Make your choice
here from a diverse slate of accommodations
that includes hotels, B&Bs, cabins, cottages,
hostels and campgrounds.
www.vancouverislandnorth.ca
37
Open 7 days a week to serve you
Your one stop fishing store!
• Camping
• Fishing
• Housewares
• Hardware
& much much
more!
Ace Hardware
7070 Market Street, Port Hardy
250-949-7155
North Coast Trail Shuttle
Cape Scott Water Taxi
ONE STOP LAND & WATER
TRANSPORTATION.
Port Hardy to the Cape Scott North Coast Trail
North Coast Trail Shuttle runs from May 1 – Sept.15
Cells: 250-902-8208 • 250-902-8202
www.northcoasttrailshuttle.com
Quarterdeck
INN & MARINA RESORT
Let us package your experience of a lifetime!
Deluxe facilities • 40 ocean view rooms • 150-slip marina with power & water
Fuel dock & propane • Showers & laundry • Tackle shop and convenience items
Meeting room • Quarterdeck Pub & Restaurant • Liquor store
www.quarterdeckresort.net
Enjoy our Daily Drink & Food Specials
served from 11am-11pm
Let us serve you in the restaurant, banquet room
or your favorite outdoor or indoor spot.
6555 Hardy Bay Rd, Port Hardy, BC • 250-949-6922 | 1.877.902.0459
38 | www.northislandgazette.com
San Josef Bay, Cape Scott Provincial Park © Boomer Jerritt
“ the road past holberg leads to the windswept, see forever beaches of
cape scott provincial park.”
Quatse River
Regional Park
& Campground
rt Hardy BC
8400 Byng Road - Po
Sani-Dump
62 tent or RV Sites in Laundry
FREE Wifi hotspot - Co
FREE hot showers dly
Hiking trails - Pet Frien
gles
How many bears & ea
atse campground?
can you spot at the Qu
pground.ca
www.quatsecam
250-949-2395
1-866-949-2395 •
Visit Us!
8400 Byng Road, Port Hardy, BC
For hours of operation and more information call or email us at
(250) 902-0336 [email protected]
*Use the code: NIGuide2016 to receive 1 FREE Adult Admission!
www.vancouverislandnorth.ca
39
1.
PHOTOS: 1. Experience Sport Fish Charters - like nowhere else! 2. Explore
local beaches with kids. 3. Camp at Cape Scott & hike the North Coast Trail.
4. Explore Salmon rivers & fish the day away! 5. Relax on Storey’s Beach
year round. 6. Shop in Port Hardy 7. Watch Black Bears in the wild
2.
40 | www.northislandgazette.com
3.
4.
PORT HARDY
VANCOUVER
ISLAND
VICTORIA
PORT HARDY VISITOR INFORMATION CENTRE
VISIT US AT 7250 Market Street
Port Hardy, British Columbia
www.visitporthardy.com
1.866.427.3901
250.949.7622
#visitporthardy
Visit Port Hardy. Live the Adventure! Pack for all kinds of weather, pick up
a fresh lunch from a local eatery and step into a rugged, rich, resilient world
that will live in your thoughts forever! Experience all there is to do inside &
outdoors; find out more at www.visitporthardy.com #visitporthardy
5.
6.
7.
www.vancouverislandnorth.ca
41
Harbour, Port McNeill © Boomer Jerritt
Port McNeill
gateway to the broughton archipelago
www . portmcneill . ca
visitor centre 250.956.3881
This friendly, unpretentious and welcoming
ecotourism capital is two hours north of
Campbell River and four hours drive from BC
Ferries terminals in Nanaimo. That’s not far
given that the town provides direct access
to the pristine channels, mazy waterways
and sheltered moorages of the worldrenowned Broughton Archipelago Provincial
Marine Park. Better still, its central location
on Vancouver Island’s northeast coastline
makes it a great spot for spontaneous and
unplanned jaunts around the region as a
whole, especially with Alert Bay and Sointula
just short sails away from Port McNeill’s own
BC Ferries dock.
Many visitors settle in for multi-night stays
by booking local accommodations, pitching
tents or parking RVs, then checking out the
town’s amenities. Learn about the area’s
ancient and contemporary history at the Port
McNeill Heritage Museum, which houses
a rich collection of artifacts inside a rustic
log building. Catch a movie or concert at
the local theatre (check for schedule). Play
a round or two with an ocean view at the
par-three golf course. Dine on wide array of
seafood or a range of ethnic fare – Greek,
Mexican, Italian and Chinese included.
Or take photos of friends and loved ones
dwarfed by the world’s largest Sitka Spruce
burl. (A burl is the unique outgrowth of wood
that grows from the trunks of big trees).
One favorite destination in town is the
seawall and newly expanded harbour area.
Drink in the ocean views here along with
a cup of barista-prepared coffee as bald
eagles circle above a busy waterfront dotted
with pleasure craft, whale watching vessels,
fishing boats and float planes. The marina
is especially busy from May to September
42 | www.northislandgazette.com
as boaters pull in to refuel and pick up
provisions before heading back out into one
of the planet’s most beautiful and pristine
maritime environments.
Cormorant Island and Sointula on Malcolm
Island, two wonderful destinations with
plenty of heritage, history and natural
splendor of their own. Back on terra firma in
Port McNeill, hikers enjoy striding along the
Schoolhouse Creek trail next to a salmon
enhancement stream that runs through
town. The Port McNeill Rotary Trail reaching
out from the townsite and along Highway
19 is excellent for those extra-long walks
The postcard Johnstone Strait and
Broughton Archipelago, with dozens
of small, undeveloped islands, is worldrenowned for whale watching, sea kayaking
and scuba diving. Each of these pastimes
is expertly served by
an array of guides,
suppliers and rental
operations – all of
them providing ready
access to the region’s
spectacular offshore
wildlife. The area is
Enjoy 20 minute scenic tours from one
famed for killer whales,
of 4 great locations.
humpback whales,
Pacific white-sided
Give us a call for your
dolphins, Steller sea
*
*
Adventure of a lifetime!
lions, Minke whales,
harbour seals, Dall’s
PORT MCNEILL
CAMPBELL
porpoise and a who’s
RIVER
who of seabirds. Local
guides offer everything
from daytrips to
week-long adventures.
There’s also a host
of fishing charter
operations here whose
expertise includes
finding halibut and
*
*
the five Pacific salmon
Custom tours available
species - chinook,
Photo shoots, wildlife,
VICTORIA
sockeye, pink, chum
NANAIMO
Mountain Top picnics
and coho.
with Champagne!
*Cost based on 3 passenger minimum.
Island hoppers take
West Coast
Helicopter Tours
125 $125
$
90
$
BC Ferries sailings to
nearby Alert Bay on
175
$
250.956.2244 (Port McNeill), 250.286.8863 (Campbell River),
250.754.5448 (Nanaimo/ Victoria)
Haida-Way Motor Inn
+ LOCALS KNOW:
Port McNeill is a great home base for all North Island
activities whether by land or sea. Its central location
makes it convenient for all tourist experiences and
adventures.
or distance jogging. The forest
surrounding the town features a
network of mountain bike trails
for the two-wheeled adventurers
- maps can be found at the local
visitor centre, these also make
for lovely forest hiking trails as
well.
The town’s population swells
in the summer months for the
annual Orcafest, a weekend
bonanza featuring an open-air
market, parade, and slo-pitch
baseball tournament. Dragracing enthusiasts take in the
heart-pounding action at the
Rumble on the Runway series.
There is also the Logger Sports
with such events as axe throwing
and hot saw. Those who want
to get away from it all can strap
in for flightseeing excursions
via plane or helicopter. The
whirlybirds can also do drop-off
and pick-up runs to the region’s
remote and wild backcountry.
But summer isn’t the only primetime for a visit to Port McNeill
and the north Island. Mount
Cain, Vancouver Island North’s
local ski hill near the community
of Woss, is a super-scenic winter
getaway for powder-lovers and
downhill sliders. No need to
get behind the wheel, from Port
McNeill Mount Waddington
Regional Transit connects with
the Mount Cain ski shuttle so
you can ride as a passenger all
the way up.
Upgraded rooms at a competitive rate
Non-smoking kitchen units
Complimentary breakfast* | Free WIFI access
Microwave, Fridge & Coffee maker in each room
Cafe, Dining room and Pub
Cold beer & wine store onsite
1-800-956-3373 OR 1-250-956-3373
1817 Campbell Way, Port McNeill, BC V0N 2R0
www.pmhotels.com
*included w/ regular room rate
Complete Shopping
Port McNeill
1705 Campbell Way
Groceries • Produce • Meat
Dairy • Deli • Bakery
Huge Selection • Friendly Staff
Open daily 8 am - 9 pm
250-956-4404
www.vancouverislandnorth.ca
43
Broughton
Archipelago
This is one of the most breathtakingly
beautiful spots on the planet with a relaxed
pace and expansive wilderness area. The
unimaginable natural beauty and solitude
are just a couple of the things that make
this region such an irresistible marine
destination. Visitors with go-anywhere
freedom can immerse themselves in the
midst of it all at water level - either by
kayak, pleasure boat or on guided wildlife
expeditions.
The region’s legendary sailing and paddling
expeditions head deep into the Broughton
Archipelago, a mazy region of waterways
and numerous islands large and small
44 | www.northislandgazette.com
clustered northeast of Port McNeill beyond
Sointula and Alert Bay. Every traveller’s
experience here will be unique yet it’s sure
to include deep inhales of crisp ocean air,
open-water adventures, long stretches
of shoreline exploration and a few tricky
tidal crossings. Paddle or sail where you
choose into impossibly scenic inlets or
onto white-shell beaches. Camp under a
sky alight with a million stars or fall asleep
while rocking gently in a secluded moorage.
Wilderness enthusiasts looking for ecofriendly adventures will find luxuriously
remote floating lodge accommodation here
capped by access to health services such
as acupressure massage amid spectacular
wilderness scenery. Most memorably of all,
there’s sure to be sightings of seals, orcas
or even humpback whales. Waterproof
digital cameras will get a serious workout,
guaranteed.
Echo Bay on Gilford Island is one of the
region’s main ports of call, either by water
or floatplane. It’s home to a full-service
marina as well as a remarkable museum
and replica hand-loggers shack created
by author, naturalist and retired fisherman
Billy Proctor. Shop for art, dine at a pig
roast, take a wilderness painting class and
head into the forest on guided forays for
Humpback Surfacing © Steven Fines - www.natureone.ca
Kayaking © Boomer Jerritt
“...camp under a sky alight with a million stars or fall asleep while
rocking gently in a secluded moorage.”
broughton archipelago
PADDLER’S INN
wild food. Marinas, affordable lodgings and
oceanside campgrounds can also be found up
Tribune Channel, past the narrows into Drury
Inlet and throughout this postcard region.
Those seeking a more solitary communion with
nature can easily find it in one of the many
secluded coves noted in boaters’ guides to
the Broughton Archipelago. In every way, the
Broughton Archipelago welcomes your visit
and can enrich your life by connecting you with
its peaceful nature.
- Floathouse Cabins & Inn
- Waterfront Cabins
- Kitchenettes or Group Catering
- Water Taxi Service
- Kayak Rentals & Transport
- On site Massage
- Forest Trails, Lake & Sauna
- Peace & Quiet
+ LOCALS KNOW:
The slower you go the more you see!
250.230.0088 | www.paddlersinn.ca
www.vancouverislandnorth.ca
45
TELEGRAPH
COVE
Resort & Campground
a truely unique EXPERIENCE
120 Site wooded
RV Park & Campsite.
NEW!
Trailhead
for Blinkhorn
Trail
Campfires permitted and
firewood available.
Wastell Manor,
5 room Antique Hotel.
20 fully contained
cabins and houses for rent.
Many have woodstoves.
140 berth Marina
and launch ramp.
Marine gas, coffee shop,
general store, shops, wireless
Internet available.
Killer Whale Cafe, Old Satery Pub
Salmon Barbeques on
Wednesday & Saturday evenings at
the restaurant.
Great Sport Fishing Area
Fishing Charters for Salmon &
Halibut available.
46 | www.northislandgazette.com
Telegraph Cove
Step back in time and set sail into a marine
wonderland at Telegraph Cove. This historic
and picturesque waterfront village is
perched at the entrance to Johnstone Strait,
the Broughton Archipelago Marine Park and
the Blackfish Archipelago. A top-10 winner
of best towns to visit in a poll of Canadian
travel writers, it’s among the last surviving
boardwalk communities on the west coast.
Kayakers, wildlife viewers, pleasure boaters,
scuba divers and sports-fishing enthusiasts
clearly agree as they book early to avoid
disappointment and magnetically return
to this secluded, truly magical dot on the
Vancouver Island North map.
Whale watching vessels set out on daytrips
and multi-day adventures during the May
to October season. Visitors here have the
opportunity to enter into a rare, precious
and respectful experience in wildlife viewing.
The density and abundance of marine
mammals in this area is truly astonishing. It
is common to have the privilege of spotting
killer whales (orca), humpback whales,
Minke whales, Steller sea lions, Dall’s and
harbour porpoise, harbour seals and Pacific
white-sided dolphins. River otters and black
bears are also often sighted.
These waters are one of most predictable
places to see killer whales in the wild. The
area is frequented by both the mammaleating killer whale population known as
“Bigg’s killer whales” (or “Transients”)
and the inshore fish-eating killer whale
population known as the “Northern
Residents.” The latter come to the area
to feed on salmon and to rub their bellies
on “rubbing beaches”. They are the only
population of killer whales in the world
known to have this rubbing behaviour.
The beaches they most often use have
been recognized as critical habitat and are
protected as a sanctuary known as the Dr.
Michael Bigg Ecological Reserve at Robson
Bight. Both the land and water areas of the
Reserve are not open to the public.
The Whale Interpretive Centre (WIC) in
Telegraph Cove provides an additional
Sea Lions © Steven Fines - www.natureone.ca
visitors here have the
opportunity to enter into a rare,
precious and respectful experience
in wildlife viewing .
opportunity to learn about local marine
life. This wonderful facility offers a highly
educational and engaging experience that
focuses on the biology of local marine
mammals, the threats they face, and how
we can all work toward their conservation.
The WIC is home to a fascinating collection
of marine mammal skeletons and interactive
displays. The feature skeleton is that of a
60’ (17 meter) fin whale.
The number of marine mammals is
testament to the productivity of this current
rich area and the resulting large numbers of
salmon and other fish on which the marine
mammals feed. This means that this one
of the best areas on Vancouver Island for
sport fishermen to haul in a prize catch.
Telegraph Cove’s history is embodied in its
restored wooden buildings and boardwalk.
In 1912, it was chosen as the northern
terminus for the telegraph line from
Campbell River and earned a name in the
process. A lumber mill and salmon saltery
followed. During the Second World War
www.vancouverislandnorth.ca
47
viewing daytrips) along with a
the Royal Canadian Air Force
restaurant and pub, a general
operated a sawmill here with a
store and two patio cafés.
large crew. The lumber cut was
Result: It’s a pleasure to unwind
used for building the airports
at Port Hardy, Coal
Harbour, Bella Bella,
and Price Rupert. Its
genesis into a whalewatching mecca
The MV Gikumi, built in 1954
began in 1980 with
by Fred Wastell, was British
the launch of BC’s
Columbia’s first whale watching
first such enterprise.
DID YOU KNOW:
A 20-minute drive
Farewell Harbour Wilderness
and Fishing Lodge
250-902-WOLF (9653)
Departure Point:
Direct flights from Campbell River to the
lodge. Sea taxi from Telegraph Cove.
Culturally Immersive Experiences
Wilderness and Wildlife Experiences
World class salmon fishing
Traditional and contemporary cuisine
First Nation family owned ~ Family atmosphere
All inclusive packages; including return airfare
www.seawolfadventures.com
Your Gateway to
vessel. She has lived in Telegraph
Cove her whole life and still
resides in Telegraph Cove today.
south of Port McNeill
and yet still a world
away, Telegraph
Cove is home to a
resort with historic
cabins along the
boardwalk, condo-style lodging,
two campgrounds, RV parks,
vacation rental homes and a
pair of full-service marinas.
The town’s small array of
businesses includes its tour
operators (whale watching,
kayak adventures/rentals,
fishing-charters, aboriginal
cultural tours, and grizzly bear
here in comfort after a day on
the water, trading stories about
spectacular sightings over a
good meal before enjoying
a deep sleep in this peaceful
getaway destination.
Adventure!
➽ Waterfront Dockside 29 Suites have full kitchens and spectacular
views of Telegraph Cove & Johnstone Strait
➽ RV Park - full service - stunning ocean and cove views
➽ Marina & launch - power, water and wide sturdy cedar docks
➽ Orca, Humpback, Porpoise, Dolphin... marine Life at its finest
➽ Outstanding fishing, boating, kayaking and hiking
Now sellingt
Waterfrons!
Home Site
Explore the wonders of historic Telegraph Cove
Telegraph Cove Marina & RV PARK
1-250-928-3163 or 1-877-Tel-Cove » www.telegraphcove.ca
48 | www.northislandgazette.com
Mountain Biking © Boomer Jerritt
Sayward
www . portofkelseybay . com
visitor centre 250.282.0018
Detour off the fast track and take a deep,
invigorating breath of clean west coast air
as you enter a land of forests, mountains
and winding hiking trails on the edge of
peaceful Johnston Strait. Sayward is the
gateway to Vancouver Island North’s rich
bounty of outdoor pleasures. The quaint
and rustic village is an hour’s scenic
highway drive north of Campbell River and
90 minutes south of Port McNeill.
Get oriented for unscripted, do-it-yourself
outdoor adventure by checking in at the
wharf at the end of Sayward Road in Kelsey
Bay. Here you’ll find maps, accommodation
information and friendly advice on area
hiking, walking, bicycling, fishing, canoeing,
kayaking, camping (by the village pond or
oceanside), wildlife/bird watching and killer
whale, dolphin and porpoise sightings.
Backpackers and casual hikers explore
a trail network that follows ancient First
Nations trade routes in criss-crossing
what’s aptly named as the Valley of
Trails. The Dalrymple Forest Interpretive
Trail offers a gentle self-guided stroll to a
shaded, moss-scented glade. Test stamina
and strength on the challenging Kusam
Klimb, a day-long ascent and return on Mt.
H’Kusam; awe-inspiring valley views and
lush alpine picnic spots reward those who
reach the mile-high summit. White River
Provincial Park is a small, undeveloped
wilderness area that offers excellent fishing
opportunities and protection for important
Roosevelt elk and black bear habitat. This
scenic park and its old-growth forest were
stunning enough for Hollywood to take
notice – portions of White River were used
as a film site for the movie The Scarlet
Letter, filmed here in 1994. Visitors to the
park today will find remnants of the film
set, including wide boardwalks designed
to accommodate horse-drawn carriages.
A short loop trail through the forest leads
down to the White River. Along the way,
visitors will be rewarded with views of
some massive Douglas fir and western
red cedar trees – giants which, no doubt,
helped White River earn the nickname, “the
Cathedral Grove of the North Island.”
Three unserviced campsites in Sayward
serve those who trek off the grid. Yet
the wilderness has also been tamed in
beautiful fashion in a few easily accessible
spots. Nature buffs, couples and family
groups wander acres of woodland trails
at the Victorian Garden Gate Manor.
Birdwatchers eager for sightings of
trumpeter swans, herons, bald eagles and
more head for the estuary at the Salmon
River Wildlife Reserve or the wheelchairaccessible Kelly’s Trail. Local guides can
be hired for fishing expeditions and wildlife
viewing.
Sayward’s wharf and community life gets
busy in the summer. Artists display their
works during summer weekends at Ocean
View Gifts in Al’s Room, on the Wharf
in Kelsey Bay. This wharf is owned and
www.vancouverislandnorth.ca
49
operated by Sayward Futures Society,
a not for profit organization whose
volunteers not only look after the wharf,
but also work in the Gift store/Tourist Info
Centre. The store carries local artwork,
some groceries, snacks and fishing tackle.
An annual vintage car show is held in
June. Artists, including world-renowned
wood carver Glenn Greensides, display
their work at Art in the Park in July. August
features the Oscar Daze slo-pitch baseball
tournament on the BC Day long weekend
and the Tour de Rock Fishing Derby, a
fundraiser for Cops for Cancer, on the
third weekend of the month. Fresh produce
and good food are great reasons to visit
the Saturday farmer’s market before
relaxing in Heritage Park in the shade of
an oak tree planted in 1936 to mark the
coronation of England’s King George IV
Watch for a mysterious steamy ring
round the peak of H’Kusam Mountain
- the Kwakwaka’wakw called it Hiatsee
Saklekum: “Where the breath of the sea
lion gathers at the blow-hole”.
CYPRESS
COFFEE HUT & GALLERY
Pizza ~ Hot Dogs ~ Espresso
Latte ~ Cappuccino ~ Fruit Smoothies
16 Flavours of Ice Cream
OPEN 11:00 am - 8:00 pm
SAYWARD JUNCTION
GAS & CONVENIENCE
Propane | Gas | Diesel | Souvenirs
250.282.3232
COLD BEER & WINE
OPEN 7 DAYS A WEEK
COLD BEER AT LIQUOR STORE PRICES
Corner of Sayward turnoff & Island Hwy
50 | www.northislandgazette.com
Sointula Harbour © Dan Hillertt
CYPRESS TREE
+ LOCALS KNOW:
Rainbow © Dan Hillertt
Worldwide, Malcolm Island is the
only place where old fishing nets
are washed, cut with a particular
technique, and woven together to
create unique rugs by local ladies.
Sointula
a place of harmony
www . sointulainfo . ca
visitor centre 250.973.2001
A fascinating history, bikes to borrow, a
historic co-operative store and plenty of
rural charm and character makes Sointula
on sprawling Malcolm Island a memorable
getaway from the already remote
pleasures of Vancouver Island North. The
town’s name means “place of harmony”
in Finnish. It was established in 1901 when
a colony of Finnish settlers arrived with
utopian dreams. While their ambitious
plans were derailed within a decade,
visitors will quickly learn that these
visionaries chose the right place for a fresh
air and salt water paradise on earth.
Most visitors today arrive via a 25-minute
BC Ferries sailing from Port McNeill.
Many park their cars and travel either
as pedestrians or cyclists. From May
to September, those without bikes can
borrow one for the day by checking in
at the Sointula Resource Centre right
off the ferry dock. The island invites
exploration, and a car is helpful when
heading to popular destinations like Bere
Point, Mitchell Bay or the Pulteney Point
Lighthouse. Boaters utilize the good
moorage in the Malcolm Island Lions
Harbour.
Hikers rack up the mileage on the Mateoja
Heritage trail, the path of early pioneer
homesteaders. Ocean breezes and easy
strolling are in store on the Kaleva Road
Walkway, a 3 km seaside interpretive trail
overlooking Broughton Strait. Bere Point
Regional Park and campground is the
starting point for the Beautiful Bay trail,
which winds along a rocky ridge that offers
breathtaking ocean glimpses. Some hikers
are lucky enough to witness killer whales
rubbing on the pebble beach below the
viewing platform at the start of the trail.
Visit the local museum, one of the best for
its size, to learn about the island’s unique
history. Drop into BC’s longest running
cooperative store, formed as the Sointula
Co-operative Store Association in 1909
(open Tues to Sat). A delectable bakery,
a burger joint and a seasonal restaurant
provide a good range of food options,
and it’s possible to shop for island made
art and crafts at a few shops and home
studios. The Sointula Resource Centre
Society’s visitor information staff can point
the way to the island’s campgrounds, B&B
establishments and other accommodation
options.
On beautiful Malcolm Island, enjoy a relaxing camping experience.
Close to ferry and all ameneties that Sointula has to offer.
We are happy to provide RV sites with electricity
Tent and RV sites just a step off the beach - Showers/Flush toilets
Firewood - Pet friendly
185 Kaleva Rd, Malcolm Island, BC, Canada
Phone: 250-949-0201 Fax: 250-973-6143
www.harmonyshores.ca
[email protected]
www.vancouverislandnorth.ca
51
DID YOU KNOW:
Zeballos
Zeballos ©
For access to Kyuquot, Fair Harbour
and the wilds of the west coast,
Zeballos is a great jumping off
point with the accommodation and
services provided in the village.
www.zeballos.com
an outdoor adventure destination
on the shelterd
inland pacific
coastline of
vancouver island
north.
It’s a perfect jumping-off point
for Kyuquot Sound and the
marine getaways at Catala and
Nuchatlitz provincial parks.
Hire maritime guides and their
boats in town or bring your own
transportation. To get here,
head north for 15 minutes from
Woss on Highway 19, then
travel west for about an hour
on a gravel logging road. The
scenery, rewarding vistas and
remote beauty of the place fully
justifies the trip.
waters of the open Pacific. Or cast lines for cut-throat and rainbow
trout in the Zeballos and Kaouk rivers. Scuba divers explore the
rock walls at Tahsis Narrows, surfers head for Nootka Island, and
birdwatchers congregate in local estuaries.
This was once booming goldSituated on the shore of Zeballos Inlet this scenic village provides
rush country. Between 1938
paddle-prone visitors with easy kayak access to at the Zeballos
and 1942, a bustling town
boat launch. Depart from here on typically calm waters for a short
rose practically overnight as
daytrip to Little Zeballos or do a half day paddle, then explore the
the fever peaked with the
trails and visit the museum.
extraction of $13 million in
After enjoying the relaxed pace of Zeballos, motorists can follow
claims. Production halted postthe gravel road to Fair Harbour, a great launching point for marine
World War II when the price of
adventures. Gorgeous, beach-lined Rugged Point Marine Park is an
gold dropped and material and
easy day paddle from the shoreline.
labour costs spiked, leaving
stores of the precious metal
in the ground. Those who
remained turned to forestry and
fish processing, key industries
to this day. Explore regional
There’s Gold In Them Hills!
history at the family-friendly
Heritage Buildings, Self GuidedWalking Tours, Heritage Museum
Zeballos Heritage Museum.
Outdoor Recreation Paradise
Sport fishing is a favorite way
Sportfishing, Kayaking, Walking Trails,
Birdwatching, Diving, Rock Climbing
to get out on the water in
Visitor Services
pursuit of salmon, halibut, red
Restaurants, Accommodations, Camping
snapper and rockfish. Troll in
and RV Sites, Boat Launch, Store, Fuel
the relatively sheltered Zeballos Call us at (250) 761-4229 between 8:30-4:30 Mon. to Fri.
Inlet. Cruise towards the
or check us out online at www.zeballos.com
Esperanza Inlet and the wilder
52 | www.northislandgazette.com
Come, Explore & Discover
One of BC’s best-kept secret
ski hills, plentiful hiking trails,
watersports-friendly lakes,
intriguing local history and
a largely unspoiled natural
landscape: It’s all part of the
adventure that awaits active
explorers who turn off Highway
19 at Woss, some 130 km north
of Campbell River.
Logging has been a
mainstay occupation here
in the Nimpkish Valley since
European settlers first arrived.
In fact, Woss is the site of
the only operational railroad
logging enterprise in Canada.
Steam Locomotive 113, built
in 1920 for rail logging, is a
historic local treasure that
honours the community’s
heritage and is now a
registered Heritage Site along
with the Woss Fire Lookout
located just north of the
community.
Beyond the logging zones
are emerald-green parks and
backcountry wilderness. The
Nimpkish Valley Ecological
Reserve protects the oldest
trees in the region. Schoen
means “beautiful” in German,
and it’s exactly the right word
for Schoen Lake Provincial
Park (open March to October).
Boaters launch from its gravel
beaches, and climbers head for
the heights via the trail network
at Schoen. Pinder Peak and
Rugged Mountain also have
wilderness trail networks for
adventuresome climbers. For
a birds-eye view of the valley,
hike the fairly short (1.8 km),
fairly steep (rope-assisted
sections), Woss Lookout Trail
and take in the rugged vista
from the recently resorted fire
lookout tower.
North of Woss is Nimpkish
Lake, a breezy favourite with
windsurfers and kiteboarders.
Get a taste of the caving
experience at Little Huson
Regional Park’s “walk-in”
limestone caves and unique
land formations.
Powder blues aren’t an issue
for North Island skiers.
Mount Cain © Boomer Jerritt
Woss &
Nimpkish Valley
hike the woss lookout
trail and take in the rugged vista.
Open on weekends and select Monday’s during the ski season
(conditions permitting), Mount Cain is a funky, community-run,
family-oriented resort virtually free of line-ups. With room aplenty
to carve sweeping ‘s’ patterns into the snow that’s piled up during
the week, enthusiasts ride the t-bar lifts, inhale pure oxygen and
test themselves on 18 runs and 457 metres of vertical drop. Caféstyle meals, slope-side accommodations and affordable lift prices
contribute to the relaxed vibes. Off-season, Mount Cain’s high
alpine meadows attract hikers and wildlife watchers.
Discover Vancouver Island’s best
POWDER
Visit us for your next
ski vacation
1-888-668-6622
www.mountcain.com
www.vancouverislandnorth.ca
53
Grizzly Bears
of Knight inlet
1-888-643-9319 • 1-250-928-3090
[email protected]
www.grizzlycanada.com
54 | www.northislandgazette.com
nature
adventure
history
Whale Watch telegraph cove
www.stubbs-island.com
British ColumBia’s 1st Whale WatChing Company – Founded 1980
ReseRvations 1-800-665-3066
stubbs island Whale Watching is dedicated to ethical wildlife viewing, education and conservation.
rated “excellent”