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A T U F T S C O M M U N I C A T I O N S P U B L I C A T I O N m a g a z i n e Hip To Be Square Return To Slender Made-To-Measure Of Arms and Men Ski Dazzle! Coppley Is In Lots of Luxe Put It In Neutral AUTUMN 07 & WINTER 08 • IS SUE 3 PM41333515 W elcome to the fall 2007 edition of British Importers Magazine. British Importers would like to thank each and every one of our customers for supporting B.I. through its move to the Yates Street location. Hard to believe, but September 1, 2005 marked the opening of our architecturally designed new space with its larger size and scope. Moreover, through the support and encouragment of our many customers, we’ve continued to grow within the new space. Womenswear, so new to B.I. two years ago, grew from a corner in the new store, to its own space, in excess of 1600 square feet, for fall 2006. To further enhance the womenswear shopping experience, British Importers is expanding its current womenswear space by almost forty percent. The new portion is slated to be open September first. This enlarged floor area will allow for the introduction of new our lines Hugo Boss Woman, Nanette Lapore, Pink Tartan, and Malene Birger, one of Denmark’s premier designers. Fall’s continuing lines are no less exciting, including L.A.’s Robert Rodriguez, Laundry by Design, Fabrizio Gianni, as well as Norma Kamali, among others. Whether it’s downtown, uptown, or out of town, B.I.’s keen, knowledgable womenswear staff will have you covered, in style. For the B.I. man, cool clothes, both business and casual, for work and for weekend, remains a hallmark, and fall ’07 has it all. From the magic touch of cashmere, whether dressy suits or soft-touch sweaters, to the supple leathers of Andrew Marc, luxury fabrics are a big hit this autumn. So, too, is contrast. Wallets made from the finest calfskin to spun stainless steel offer tradition and future in one showcase. Men’s shoes has also become a high-demand category. In order to meet this demand, B.I.’s shoemakers, Geox of Italy, Ecco, Donald Pliner, Hugo Boss, Mezlan of Spain, Kenneth Cole New York, and Cole Haan shine—no pun intended—with a wider selection of quality and styles to suit the individual. Please check out our page of events and special items for women, for men, and some for both. As always, allow us to extend an invitation to stop by and be part of the excitement at B.I. for fall 2007. Best wishes, All of us at British Importers 9 6 0 YAT E S S T R E E T • V I C T O R I A , B R I T I S H C O LU M B I A V 8 V 3 M 3 • T E L : 2 5 0 3 8 6 1 4 9 6 F A L L 0 7 / W I N T E R 0 8 • V O L 3 • B R I T I S H I M P O R T E R S M A G A Z I N E contents 6 Welcome 1 Letter from our staff 9 6 0 YAT E S S T R E E T British Importers 4 Fall store happenings & events VICTORIA, BRITISH COLUMBIA V8V 3M3 TEL: 250 386 1496 Getting Your Money’s Worth 6 Looking stylish putting money in your wallet The Secret is Out 22 10 Coppley is in Made-To-Measure 14 Luxury, fit, status, and style A Well Dressed Garden 18 Your personal surroundings—a work of art Layer It On 20 Embrace fall’s hottest look 30 Fashion History 101 22 The handkerchief is nothing to sneeze at Ski Dazzle 24 Some of Canada’s hottest cold spots B.I. Fashion Report 30 Lots of luxe—ladies’ fall fashion 42 Formal Invitation 36 The return of the tuxedo Of Arms and the Man 38 Military has taken over menswear Cary Grant 42 And the secrets of the perfect suit The Story of Selvage 50 46 By Jeff Shafer, President of Jake Agave Denimsmith Put it in Neutral 48 Rich, warm neutral tones for your wardrobe Bella Macchina 50 Owning a Ferrari is a way of life 2 Todd Tufts, Editor in Chief, Publisher Gary Wollenhaupt, Editorial Director Vence Vida, Art Director Stephen R. Lewis, Copy Editor British Importers Magazine is published by Tufts Communications. © 2007, Tufts Communications. All rights reserved. Printed in the USA. For information on local advertising and available editorial profiling for local businesses please contact Todd Tufts: Tufts Communications • 1201 E. 5th Street Suite 1009 • Anderson, IN 46012 Tel: 765-608-3081 Email: [email protected] the Perfect Pair: Instinct and IQ Cole Haan Craftsmanship and Nike Air Technology STORE HAPPENINGS Special Promotions and Autumn Store Events This season’s most exciting in-store events and special promotions…. Menswear Classic Promotional Items : In-Store Events : September 15th start – The Classic V- Neck Cashmere Sweater Soft and luxurious 100% cashmere, 2 ply v-neck sweaters to keep you warm and well dressed all through the fall and the winter to come. Available in black, chocolate, navy, charcoal gray, oxford gray, denim blue and sand. These classics are also perfect Christmas gifts . MSRP $298. B.I. priced at 2 for $369 or $199 each. Wednesday August 29th Womenswear presents a trunk show for another new line to the B.I. collection, Pink Tartan. Representative Pam Cook, in-store on this date with her trunk full of goodies, will clearly demonstrate why the fashion world loves this line. So, too, do many of today’s hottest celebrities. Loyal customers like Kate Hudson, Kim Catrall and Victoria’s own Nellie Furtado make Pink Tartan a must have for Fall 2007. Come down to B.I., and try on some of the newest, most exciting fashion anywhere. Enter to win a $100 gift certificate from B.I. October 13th start – The Classic Cashmere Sport Jacket From Loro Piana of Italy, one of the world’s finest textile millers, comes 100% cashmere blazers, made expressly for British Importers right here in Canada. Tailored in 2 button, side vent style, these luxurious classics are made for the office, for dinner or for a sport shirt and denims. This is as stylish as it gets. Available in black, navy, vicuna and charcoal gray. MSRP $798. B.I. price at $499. Thursday September 27th Womenswear presents Malene Birger, distinguished Danish designer. Sold in 32 countries around the world, Malene Birger will host its first ever Canadian trunk show at British Importers. Canadian representative Paula De Koos will be back at B.I., this time to introduce the strong personality and sophisticated signature style of Malene Birger. Come into the store and see Malene’s favourite items from her ready to wear collection, which she calls her little darlings’ and enjoy a whole day of fashion experiences. On the same day, stalwart Laundry will be launching their new label called Laundry by Design. The edgy looks of Laundry by Design will mix beautifully into your wardrobe to bring your look forward for Fall 2007. Enter to win a $100 Gift Certificate from B.I. Please RSVP your attendance to [email protected]. November 10th start – The Classic Stretch Corduroy Pants The stretch corduroy pant, made of 98 % cotton, 2% lycra is a perennial favourite. Pinwale cord with a flat front, slightly lower rise, side pockets tipped with ultrasuede look sharp and feel great. Washable . Stretch waistband. Available in British tan, taupe, olive green, indigo blue, dark brown and good old black. MSRP $168. B.I. priced at $120 each or 2 for $199. Saturday September 29th Menswear presents a Toscano Trunk Show. Toscano is one of B.I.’s most important knitwear suppliers for men. Come in and try on any of an array of sport shirts, sweaters, and flat knits, including their famous extra fine merino knitwear in polo, mock, crew and v-necks. Meet Jeff Colt, Vice President of Toscano Canada. He will answer your questions and with over 20 years experience, guide you in the right direction . Enter to win a Gift Certificate for $300 worth of Toscano products. James Gibson • B.I Staff Jim came to Victoria via Montreal, pursuing his work in the broadcasting industry. Ultimately unsatisfied in broadcasting, Jim moved to the clothing industry in 1987, working for various clothing retailers including B.I.’s own Master Clothiers on Fort Street. Working at British Importers for since 1998, Jim’s many customers count on him for top notch service, as well as advice on fit, style and presentation. You can too. To contact Jim for a consultation, email him at [email protected] or call him at 250.386.1496. Saturday October 20th Womenswear & Menswear present Andrew Marc’s Trunk Show instore on this date. Andrew Marc of New York is the reigning King of all things outerwear: cottons, nylon, wool coats, but especially Andrew Marc leathers. Mark Boloton, head honcho for Canada, will again bring along an excellent selection of outerwear and leathers to choose from. All this in addition to B.I.’s own large selection of Andrew’s best. Enter to win one Andrew Marc leather jacket, for men or women. Thursday November 29th ( open to 7.30 P.M. this day only ) Womenswear & Menswear hosts our first ever Couples Christmas Event Day. This day rolls last year’s separate mens’ and womens’ events into one big day for everyone. Come into the store and purchase Christmas gifts for your family and friends. B.I. staff will steer you to gifts perfect for your those on your list, even if the present really is for you. Wait … there’s more! • Gift wrapping will be available to you for a donation to Hospice, a need felt especially at Christmas time. • Enjoy complimentary refreshments throughout the day, and after 5.30 P.M., you’re welcome to enjoy a complimentary glass of wine or a Stella Artois. • Enter to win one of 4 gift B.I. Gift Certificates of $100 each, valid for your next purchase(s). • And finally, receive a discount of 20% on all purchases, this day only ! 4 Manish Om Prakash New Paintings October 14 - October 31, 2007 Winchester Galleries Dealers in Fine Canadian, American and European Art 2260 Oak Bay Avenue Victoria, B.C. V8R 1G7 T. (250) 595-2777 F. (250) 595-2310 Toll Free 1-888-591-2777 winchestergalleriesltd.com MEMBER OF ART DEALERS ASSOCIATION OF CANADA BUSINESS & BY FA S H I O N getting your money’s GARY WOLLENHAUPT worth Survey Says! Looking stylish puts money back in your pocket. Climbing the corporate ladder takes the right tools. Not only do you have to excel at your job, you have to look good doing it. Despite the lingering specter of business casual dress, savvy business people know that a sartorial suit is still key for getting ahead. A recent survey confirms that instinct. Questions OfficeTeam advises professionals seeking advancement to ask themselves the following questions when selecting work attire: Would managers at my company wear this? If the answer is no, it’s probably not a wise choice for you, either. Is it a distraction? Unless you’re in the fashion, entertainment, or another creative industry, flamboyant or overly trendy attire can detract from your credibility. Think it through and look professional. Fortunately for you, just by purchasing the finest in menswear you’ll be a leg up on your competition no matter the style. Dress for success Ninety-three percent of managers polled said a person’s style of dress at work influences his or her chances of earning a promotion; onethird said on-the-job attire “significantly” affects an employee’s advancement prospects. Only 7 percent said dress had no influence at all. The survey was developed by OfficeTeam, a leading staffing service specializing in the placement of highly skilled administrative professionals. It was conducted by an independent research firm and includes responses from 150 senior executives at the nation’s 1,000 largest companies. “The old adage about dressing for the position to which you aspire still holds true,” said Diane Domeyer, executive director of OfficeTeam. “A polished appearance lends credibility and may help employers envision the staff member in a role with greater responsibility.” “Attire is not the only thing workers are judged on, but it is part of the equation,” Domeyer added. “While a proper wardrobe alone won’t earn you a promotion, dressing inappropriately could cost you one.” Does it give me confidence? When you’re dressed sharply, you’ll be more self-assured. Look for attire that is flattering and makes you feel good about yourself. Is it crisp and new in appearance? Even in casual work environments, avoid clothes that are torn, wrinkled, or messy. Sloppy attire may prompt your manager to question your attention to detail. Does the suit fit me well? Clothing that fits well is especially important in a business environment. Avoid wearing an old model suit when meeting with clients or potential employers. Your suit should be contemporary and body conscious. The proper suit should fit you like a glove and show the proper amount of cuff. Never too big. Never too small. MAKING THE RIGHT FASHION STATEMENT PUTS YOUR CAREER ON THE RIGHT PATH. 6 BUSINESS & getting your money’s FA S H I O N worth The Men’s Apparel Alliance, a group of clothing manufacturers and retailers, says male executives should almost always wear a dress shirt, necktie, sport jacket or blazer, and dress-casual business trousers to work. A classic suit is always appropriate, no matter how the rest of the office occupants dress. Even the most casually attired employees should don business trousers, business shirts, and leather shoes. Wearing a suit to the office, even if the dress code at your workplace is casual, may boost your professional image, according to a recent survey from TheLadders.com, a job site that lists executive-level openings. Respondents included about 2,000 of the site’s members, with incomes of $75,000 or more. Around 70 percent of the respondents said employees dressed in suits are perceived to be more senior level, while 60 percent said these folks are taken more seriously. Casual backlash In today’s economy, it’s clearly out of style to be cavalier about being employed. Even if you try to atone for your crimes of fashion by wearing a herringbone jacket, you may be seen as arrogant if you wear jeans and tennis shoes in a white-collar environment. “The trend of casualization has gone too far,” said James Ammeen, president of the Men’s Apparel Alliance, in a released statement. “CEOs who were originally pressured by their management to institute a casual dress policy to attract new employees and retain existing ones are now trying to figure out how to repeal this so-called ‘perk’ in order to increase professionalism and productivity.” PHOTO COURTESY OF ROBERT TALBOTT Ninety-three percent of managers polled said a person’s style of dress at work influences his or her chances of earning a promotion; one-third said on-the-job attire “significantly” affects an employee’s advancement prospects. Only 7 percent said dress had no influence at all. PHOTO COURTESY OF ROBERT TALBOTT The dot-com bust shattered the myth of the casual workplace. During the boom times, the unfettered creativity of gonzo software developers fueled by coffee and sushi seemed like the antidote to the stuffy ivory towers of American business. Post 9/11, it was clear that the grownups should be in charge again. Casual wear retreated in many traditional companies, but survives in some cases on Fridays or during the summer. Even with years of business casual under our collective belts, it’s disconcerting to walk into a meeting not knowing what the dress code is. It’s no problem when you’re the only one in a suit. No one would question that you dressed professionally for a meeting. But the reverse can be nerve-wracking if you’re the only one in a golf shirt and khakis. You doubt others’ perceptions of you: Do they know how good I am at what I do? Will they take my recommendations seriously? A suit preempts all those questions and puts you in the position of authority. Traditional business dress is becoming more and more common, especially in the extrovert professions that deal with the public. Clients and customers want to do business with someone who presents a smart, polished appearance that inspires confidence. They want to be able to tell the attorney from the intern, the CFO from the junior accountant. If you’ve been wearing the casual uniform for the last few years, this year’s classic styles represent an opportunity to update your business wardrobe. It’s an investment in your performance and your future that will pay dividends for years. The best counsel for staying ahead in the corporate world is, ask your clothier for advice. You want to make sure the statement you make is the right one to put your career on the right path. ❖ 8 FA S H I O N Three steps above the busy city street, at the front of a carefully restored nineteenth-century industrial building, is an almost-hidden entryway. In a small display window, passersby who take the time to look up are treated to a sample of some of the most beautiful men’s clothing in the world. The sign in the window says “Coppley.” The Coppley Apparel Group is the proud parent of the Coppley Collection. Featuring the finest fabrics from Europe’s leading mills, the Collection includes an array of garments renowned for their impressive combination of look, fit, and feel. “Our goal is to offer customers a true European styling experience in clothing tailored specifically for the North American male,” says Coppley president Warwick Jones. Coppley has been manufacturing fine men’s clothing behind its unassuming Hamilton, Ontario, front door since a partnership led by G. C. Coppley acquired the historic facility in 1883. Successful in its early years, the company really took off in the 1960s and 1970s when it licensed an impressive stable of American and European fashion brands for distribution in Canada. In the 1990s, now regarded as forward-thinking and fashionable, Coppley entered the U.S. market. Purchased by Hartmarx Corporation in 1998, the company has consolidated its many brands and now offers fashion-forward madeto-measure and ready-to-wear clothing under one name, Coppley. Although Coppley has the patina of age, it operates one of the clothing industry’s most advanced tailoring and manufacturing operations. “We combine old world craftsmanship with leading edge technology,” Jones says. “While we will never compromise on manufacturing quality, we give our Europeantrained tailors every advantage they need to improve the quality of our products and the responsiveness of our service.” The secret is out. Coppley is in! To create its garments, Coppley purchases fabrics from Italy’s legendary mills. The names Ermenegildo Zegna, Piacenza, Loro Piana, Barberis, Scabal, Tollegno, Reda, and a discrete selection of others are a siren’s call to the discriminating man in search of the best. These suiting mills, and the top European silk and cotton mills, are the foundation of all garments in the Coppley Collection. 20 FA S H I O N Keeping its retail partners happy is Coppley’s key objective and one of the most significant reasons the company has continued to grow in the highly competitive North American men’s clothing business. “Experienced retailers offer their customers a depth of clothing knowledge and advice that smart buyers value,” Jones notes. “We believe that if we give these retailers unique high quality garments, and back these garments with unique and superior services, they will continue to recommend us to their customers. Word of mouth—from retailers to their customers—is our strongest marketing tool.” Besides unsurpassed fabrics, Coppley keeps retailers and their customers happy by offering the industry’s leading made-to-measure program. In 1998, Coppley shocked the tailored-clothing world by announcing that it would deliver made-to-measure suits within seven working days, faster than many tailors could do alterations. The company was able to make this unprecedented responsiveness possible by introducing its Accumeasure fitting program. Accumeasure is a simplified and automated system that enables retailers to quickly and accurately measure a customer and send measurements to Coppley via the Internet. Seven days later, a custom-tailored garment is back in the store ready for the customer to pick up. “Our made-to-measure program remains the industry benchmark for service,” Jones says. Fall 2007 marks the first season that Coppley has brought all of its garment lines together to form a fully coordinated cornucopia of suits, sportscoats, trousers, tailored shirts, and neckwear engineered and tailored to the highest standards of quality. “The Coppley Collection brings together best-in-class garments in each clothing category to form what we believe is the finest selection of men’s clothing available anywhere,” enthuses Jones. C O P P L E Y For fall 2007, Coppley is introducing another tailor-made first: seven-day custom tailoring for its entire Collection. Everything, including suits, sportscoats, trousers, shirts, and ties, can now be ordered, tailored, and delivered within one week. Coppley is already known for the impressive quality, fit, and value of its suits, sportscoats, and trousers. This season’s selections are anchored by exquisite wool fabrics and feature irresistible, exotic blends of cashmere, silk, and bamboo—all in the most current colours, patterns, and textures. Ask your retailer to explain why these garments, and the fabrics from which they are tailored, are among the best in the world. Adding coordinated shirts and ties to the mix is icing on the cake for retailers and customers alike. Whether for dress or casual, Coppley shirts feature world-class tailoring and the finest cotton and linen available. Colours and patterns are chosen to perfectly complement the suiting and trouser fabrics in the Collection, providing elegant accompaniment to the visual melodies of the clothing season. Coppley neckwear is spectacular! Ties are handmade from the finest jacquard weaves, fabrics with as many as six yarn colours painstakingly woven into textured solids, dots, medallions, satin stripes, and ultra-rich paisleys. Seeing and touching these amazing ties alone is worth a trip to the clothing store. So if you have a yen for the very best in European-inspired men’s garments, garments that are specifically engineered for the North American man, visit your clothing retailer and take a close look at Coppley. Touch the fabrics; try them on. But be ready to succumb to your senses, because you won’t leave the store empty-handed. ❖ 12 FPO c o l l e c t i o n CLOTHING TROUSERS SHIRTS C U STO M I N S E V E N DAY S NECKWEAR BY FA S H I O N TODD TUFTS made-to-measure It’s about luxury, fit, status and individual style...and now is the time! Now that Monday through Friday casual week is long over, the suit is not only back but its back with an upscale twist. According to a recent study of independent menswear stores conducted by MR Magazine (a fashion industry trade journal), 35 percent of the volume of suits purchased in 2007 were made-to-measure. There are plenty of good reasons behind this startling statistic. Over two-thirds of suit buyers say fit is their biggest issue. The made-to-measure boom is about more than just suits. It is fragrances and furniture, hats and shoes. Did you know kids are going on line and designing their own basketball shoes? The new way is a very old way, and the benefits of today’s custom suits offer softer/lighter fabrics, unwavering comfort and, more importantly, the ever-present word for this season: fit. This is not an old fogy trend. Its patrons are young and old, ambitious and successful, and that rare thing, the celebrity with taste. From George Clooney to Dwyane Wade, the current hot trend harkens back to the days of James Bond (Sean Connery, the real James Bond) and Cary Grant when suits were meant to look more than good on you, they were meant to look stunning! Getting today’s trimmer look is not easy. It’s not always sitting in the right colour, the right shade and in the right size on the rack. Nothing can give you that “fit” like a custom, made-to-measure suit. Gone are the days of oversized, roomy and broad-shouldered sack suits for the office. The assumption is that made-to-measure suits are more for those seeking a distinctive fabric. The reality is that made-to-measure is sometimes the best solution for guys whose body types simply require it. The best ready-to-wear suits at our store can still be slightly disproportionate to one’s dimensions. Made-to-measure suits and shirts can eliminate extensive alterations and ensure a flawless–you guessed it–fit. But again, do not make any assumptions. It’s more than about fit. It’s about you being the designer! It’s about you owning a unique item. It’s about status, luxury, and details unavailable from even the best designer ready-to-wear suits. Gentlemen, it’s another level and it’s a level too few of you have taken a look at. On suits: think working button holes on cuffs, bright-coloured silk linings, personalized tags, the right width lapel, cell phone pockets. For shirts, choose from luxurious cottons, several collar styles, button or french cuffs and maybe add a monogram. How much time do you spend looking for the right suit? You want a one-button in pinstriped grey flannel with peaked lapels? Just open a custom book in the store–we have a deep selection of tailormade clothing and shirts–take your pick of the best fabrics in the world and we’ll have a handmade garment ready for you in less time than you might think. It’s time to take a look at your options. Time to express your individual style, taste and, in some cases, step into a more specialized model. Our made-tomeasure program is being utilized by our clients who recognize and want the very best. Yes, it’s both opulent and refined. Yes, it is for those who want a perfectly attired appearance. No, it is not out of your reach. Made-to-measure suits can start out as low as $795. Surprised? From there you can go up substantially depending on the fabric you choose. You want exclusive super 200s? They’re available too. Are you afraid you’ll need several fittings? Roughly 80% of our custom made suits fit perfectly as soon as they are delivered. For the others, we typically make very minor alterations here at the store. After that first suit, the manufacturer is alerted to any minor changes in measurements...and the next one? Often times it’s perfect. Repeat business is extremely strong once our clients discover the ease and amazing fit of a custom suit, trouser or shirt. After a few times, just select the fabric and we’ll handle the rest. Tailor-made suits from our pre-eminent sartorial houses are made from the most refined fabrics with strict attention paid to the stitching. This will ensure the suit lasts for many years. PHOTO COURTESY OF RAVAZZOLO 14 www.canali.it FA S H I O N “TODAY, MADE-TO-MEASURE IS THE DEFINING WAY DISCERNING, PERFECTLY ATTIRED MEN ARE CHOOSING TO SUIT THEMSELVES. A REKINDLED INTEREST IN ATTENTION TO DETAIL AND STYLE RAPIDLY BEING EMBRACED BY young AND old ALIKE.” Phil Nyren, British Importers 2. You choose the fabric and the details. You will never meet another man with the same suit as you. Some of our vendors only have enough fabric of a given pattern for 20 to 30 suits worldwide. A made-tomeasure suit is made once and once only for you. As a result, the suit becomes an expression of your individual style. In collaboration with our staff, you’ll find a suit that gives you a style that suits you best. We’ll help you with all your selections and you can add the personal touches that will make it stand out: pockets, buttons, vents, cuffs, and linings. Whether you want one, two or three-buttons, a tapered waist, dark fabric or lighter colours, we’ll walk you through it and offer our advice. It’s a fun and creative process. Who is utilizing our made-to-measure program? Some are younger than you might think. They want a sexier, trimmer cut with one or two buttons, higher button stance, hacking and ticket pockets with flat front trousers. Others are using it due to body type whether they be big athletes or simply carrying a few extra pounds. For the extralarge guy, it important that your suit is neither too tight nor too loose. Smooth, soft fabrics and elongating patterns complement your physique. A slightly shorter jacket and pleated pants help proportionate the body. Shorter men need a perfect sleeve and jacket length. Too long or too short can accentuate their stature. Proper placement of pockets is vital to the balance of a shorter jacket shape. Large guys look best in subdued colours and vertical pinstripes. Importance is placed on proper shoulder, waist, and leg proportion in the suit shape. Round guys need more emphasis in the shoulder of the jacket to help slim the hips. 3. A fitting for the perfect fit. We take a host of measurements (up to 35 for a suit and 14 for a shirt) before the pattern is made and the fabric cut. We look at your natural posture and balance unique to you to be tailored into the suit. Careful notes and measurements are taken on everything from the slope of your shoulders to the width of your thighs. We may even take special note of the thickness of the watch you wear for left sleeve and cuff accomodation. Your measurements are sent to Italy or New York or Chicago and your custom tailored suit or shirt will come back to us shortly. A finetuning fitting in our store completes the final detailed adjustments. The result will be a suit that hangs perfectly on your body and/or a shirt that fits you to a tee. 1. Preparation Clearly articulate what you are looking for and give it some time. A great suit is not made overnight, but amazingly you will probably be taking it home within a few weeks. Review men’s fashion journals and tear out several photos of suits with the details you find appealing (a button here, a cuff there, a new lapel). Allow our sales staff to help you select a style that fits your body shape. There is always a difference between what you thought would look good when you saw it in a magazine and what actually complements your frame. PHOTO COURTESY OF RAVAZZOLO 16 Beautiful skin is always in style. Powerful treatments and products to: renew complexion reverse signs of aging remedy acne and rosacea remove unwanted hair complimentary consultations 907 Gordon Street, Victoria BC, V8W 3P9 phone: 385-7546 (SKIN) email: [email protected] www.glowrescue.com 4- L ANSCAPE Your home is often your greatest asset, which will continue to grow, giving you both comfort and security. A well dressed garden is a work of art that will increase your home’s value – as well as provide you with enjoyment. GardenScapes specializes in creating unique and inviting outdoor living spaces designed for relaxation, entertaining, recreation, and inspiration. Whether your tastes are traditional, contemporary, Mediterranean or Zen, our philosophy is to incorporate a client’s vision with innovative ideas and creative land use. The secret of a truly great gardenscape is the ability to combine art and design principles with the existing features of the site. It is important to identify and recognize a property’s unique qualities and potential. It is also important to understand the style and taste of the homeowners and how to reflect their own personal inspirations into the design. Ultimately, the final project will be a fusion of the inherent features of the property, the owners’ requirements, a theme or style, and the working knowledge of the landscaper. A Well Dressed Garden Turn your personal surroundings into a work of art. The moderate climate of Southern Vancouver Island allows for a wide variety of garden styles, especially with year-round water features. A simple still pond or bubbling fountain can add a soothing calmness to a yard and be used as a focal point of the design. More elaborate waterfalls or streams create a mood with the sound of moving water. Water features can follow a free-flowing form evoking elements of nature and peaceful harmony. Geometric ponds with classic walls and fountains constructed from refined materials present a more formal setting. Another popular trend is to blur the boundaries between indoor and outdoor spaces. Open air kitchens, and fireplaces, gazebos, and vine covered arbors make beautiful, inviting settings for relaxed family gatherings and outdoor entertaining. GardenScapes provides a complete landscaping and building service – from concept to completion, including ponds and water features, fountains, garden ornaments, cast-iron gates and fencing, gazebos, patios, stone walls, and driveways. Whether you may be considering a front yard / backyard makeover or a complete landscape project, visit our website for some ideas and more information, or give us a call for consultation. GardenScapes 7285 East Saanich Road, Sidney BC V8M 1Y4 Tel.: (250) 208-2754 Office: (250) 544-14961495 Fax: (250) 544-1459 [email protected] www.gardenscapesbyjohn.com 18 l am coste.com w w w. l a c ow s twew. .co LACOSTE PRODUCTS ARE AVAILABLE AT 960, YATES STREET • VICTORIA • 250.386.1496 FA S H I O N l BY STEVE BRINKMAN ayering is the most important cashmere or Shetland wool are word for Fall and Winter dress this timeless classics. The black turtle- season. Layering allows a gentle- neck and ivory cable-knit never man to break the traditional rules fade in and out of fashion. Shawl- of dressing and still look great. collared cardigans (think Scottish The well-dressed man can move heather) are timeless as well, not effortlessly from work to play and to mention argyle cashmere and back again with a properly layered Fair Isle hand-knitted sweaters. ensemble. He can demonstrate tie- Polos of wool and cashmere are a less sophistication by mixing and great look when worn over sport matching colours, patterns, and shirts, particularly polos with zip- textures. Layering is also utilitari- pered plackets. Hooded zip-up an and allows him to add or sweatshirts are a sophisticated and remove clothing for comfort, modern look, particularly with depending on the weather or the premium denim and in luxurious preferences of family or friends. fabrics Sport shirts this season feature many styles and colours. Collar styles will be less structured—but- layer it on! Embrace the new season–warm up to fall’s hottest look such as cashmere. Cardigans and vests are making a comeback this season in wool and cashmere. Many are ribbed or cable-knit, and double zippers are ton downs, hidden button downs, and soft points, many with one-piece collars. If you choose to throw on a popular feature. For pattern matching, it’s best to stick with solid lay- a sweater after work, remove the collar stays lest you appear over- ers over patterned shirts and vice versa. dressed. Colours will be the traditional Fall mix of deeper earth tones Overshirts are prevalent this season and are another sophisticated and purples, browns and grays. You’ll also see a lot of jewel tones to way to add a layer over a sport shirt. Overshirts are worn outside of brighten up this Fall’s clothing. Fabric makers continue to improve the trousers and are made of heavier fabric than a sport shirt. Some styles breathability and comfort of clothing against the skin. This season is no this season are military influenced, complete with epaulets. Others have exception, with soft cotton, cotton-synthetic blends, and luxurious flan- a western influence, with pearl snap sleeves and suede yokes. Fabrics nels. Patterned shirts look best if you intend to layer on a solid sweater run from lined Harris Tweed to soft cotton. Colours for overshirts seem or overshirt. Solids are best for patterns or plaids. to be a bit more subdued and in familiar neutrals. Solid overshirts pair best with patterned sport shirts. And don’t forget your scarf! A classic sweater never goes out of style. Sweaters in gray or navy Like anything else, layering takes practice. Experiment and enjoy trying a different look. If you’re hot, take the layers off; if you’re not, leave them on. Dress well, play more, and work less this season. You’ve earned it, haven’t you? PHOTO COURTESY OF HILTL 20 FA S H I O N FUN BY LESLIE C. SMITH fashion history 101 S the handkerchief is nothing to sneeze at counterparts in the mid-nineteenth century. They could not understand why anybody would want to carry wadded-up nasal mucus about on their person. It was far more sensible to employ throwaway tissue papers, as the Japanese themselves had been doing for centuries. The concept, however, took its sweet time catching on. Kleenex wasn’t officially “invented” until the 1920s. Late in the nineteenth century, the lounge suit’s advent at last gave handkerchiefs a place to call home. Whereas before they had been jammed in pants pockets or stuffed up the sleeve of one’s coat, they now sat serene and pristine in their position of honour, the jacket’s left breast pocket. Newly visible, they became more than a functional adjunct or fashionable fribble. They now were integral to the finished look of a man’s tailored ensemble. And, like its now-distant cousin the necktie, the handkerchief’s less-structured lines and ability at times to flaunt both colour and pattern added some much-needed piquancy to the overall somber appearance of industrial-age male attire. Today, there are two sorts of pocket handkerchiefs. The first is commonly called the pocket puff. It is a coloured or patterned silk square. A bit free-spirited, it works best with a less dressy ensemble, such as a sport coat and slacks. To arrange a puff, merely grasp it in the middle, fold it in half, and bung the whole lot into the breast pocket. For a more formal look, pick a pure-white cotton (or better yet, linen, since it is crisper than cotton) handkerchief featuring hand-rolled or handstitched edges. Such a square may be easily arranged in diverse shapes. There is the triangle, for instance, which is created by overlapping two opposite ends of the cloth and folding it in half so that only a triangular tip is revealed in the pocket. The multiple-point style sees the handkerchief folded diagonally to form a slightly uneven triangle with both points showing. The two remaining ends are then folded diagonally, one over the other, so that four crisp points are left on view. Finally, there is the TV fold, so called because early television cameras could not contain the bright flare given off by an overexposure of white fabric. To achieve this style, simply double the handkerchief up on itself and tuck it into the breast pocket, leaving only a half inch of squared material on display—a perfect way, when you think about it, to pay tribute to such TV pioneers as, well, Rod Serling. ❖ ubmitted for your consideration, as sci-fi host Rod Serling used to intone, the humble handkerchief. This small, economical square of cloth, used for centuries to provide just the right finishing touch to a gentleman’s wardrobe, has of late existed in a strange type of twilight zone, along with such other forgotten fashion accessories as hats and spats, boutonnieres and Brylcreem. It seems that man has become simply too lazy to be bothered with folding up a small strip of linen or cotton, or a slip of silk, and stuffing it into his suit breast pocket. That’s a pity, because nothing spiffs up a suit, sport coat, or even tailored overcoat so well, and with so little expense and effort, as the handkerchief. All that, however, is slated to change this fall. Pocket puffs and squares have returned, bringing with them that certain touch of class, not to mention the additional arcane pleasure of being able to act the big man when the little woman dissolves into tears. Is there a more chivalrous gesture than offering a lady your pristine handkerchief with which to dry her eyes? Somehow, a balled-up hunk of Kleenex just doesn’t cut the same swath. Fashion and functionality have long been associated with the kerchief. From Roman days onward, in fact, this cloth was used by both sexes as a head-covering on hot days. Its very name derives from the thirteenth-century French term couvrechef, literally meaning “head cover.” Later Anglicization gave us two distinct subclassifications: neckerchief, for a kerchief that tied around the neck (also known as a “cravat,” this style grew into our modern-day neckwear), and handkerchief, for a kerchief carried in the hand, often used for effect when gesturing gracefully. Handkerchiefs grew in importance in the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries as polite society learned to stop wiping their noses on their sleeves—and then took up the messy habit of ingesting snuff tobacco. By the eighteenth century, handkerchiefs were available in a large variety of shapes and sizes, prompting Marie Antoinette to persuade King Louis XVI to outlaw any that were not square and in the regulation sixteen-toseventeen-inch width. (Such frivolous preoccupations would soon cause the downfall of both the king and his fashion-conscious consort.) Although they had their decorative uses, handkerchiefs were by then mainly meant for nose blowing, a fact that disgusted Japanese trade representatives when they first made contact with their Western PHOTO COURTESY OF ROBERT TALBOTT 22 BY TRAVEL BARBARA E. COHEN skidazzle! Canadian Rockies charm Hollywood’s hottest skiers. Photo by Henry Georgi A few days before she was set to meet her estranged husband in divorce court last January, former model Christie Brinkley took to the slopes at the Fairmont Banff Springs Celebrity Winter Sports Invitational, hotels and resorts owned and operated by Fairmont Hotels and Resorts in looking radiant in the crisp mountain air. “Everything is so beautiful, it’s like a storybook setting,” she told Alberta. The Fairmont Chateau Lake Louise hosted the celebrity winter- celeb-blogger Entertainment Tonight Online. “Pulling up to the hotel last sports event in 2006, and early reports suggest Banff Springs will roll out night, I felt like I was arriving at Hogwarts. It really has that dreamlike the red carpet again in 2008 for Nordic obstacle course races, dual racing quality here just removed from time.” down the giant slalom run, hilarious snowshoe competitions, and a “Everything is so beautiful, it’s like a storybook setting. Pulling up to the hotel last night, I felt like I was arriving at Hogwarts. It really has that dreamlike quality here—just removed from time.” —Christie Brinkley Fairmont Banff Springs Hotel, Banff National Park Photo Courtesy of Travel Alberta Brinkley joined other Hollywood A-list celebrities, such as Alec Baldwin and Robert F. Kennedy, Jr., at the Canadian resort to raise $1.3 million for Kennedy’s Waterkeeper Alliance Charity, which supports clean-water programs around the world. Dozens of international stars joined Brinkley in toboggan, biathlon, and giant slalom races. Past participants include Michael Douglas, Catherine Zeta-Jones, Meg Ryan, Dan Aykroyd, and Martin Sheen, all of whom cavorted within view of the public in Banff’s Sunshine Village. Last year’s celebrity shindig was held at one of three remarkable 24 Photo by Henry Georgi WOMAN AIDA ® - ARE REGISTERED TRADEMARKS OF GEOX GEOX.COM - INTERNATIONAL PATENT - GEOX® - RESPIRA® - INTERNATIONAL PATENT By combining a microperforated rubber sole and the breathable waterproof membrane, the Geox system lets foot perspiration go out through the sole thus keeping your feet dry and healthy. TRAVEL Off the slopes, take in Banff’s thermal springs, cruise by helicopter to remote heli-hiking destinations, or mush your way by dogsled through the fairy-tale mountain scenery. An easy gondola ride up Sulphur Mountain deposits you at the top of one of Banff’s breathtaking summits. When you’re ready to come in out of the cold, the whirlpools tubs, steam rooms, or massages in the full-service Photo by Henry Georgi spa and fitness centre at the Fairmont Banff Springs will ease any kinks that broomball tournament. Both resorts offer access to superior alpine have crept in after a day on skis or snowshoes. slopes and other winter-sport trails in Canadian national parks. In addition, the Fairmont Jasper Park Lodge offers access to skiing in Jasper Elsewhere in Alberta, a variety of upscale resorts at Lake Louise, Jasper and Fernie offer terrain for skiers at every skill level. National Park. All welcome snow bunnies and ski dudes who want to experience the glam for themselves. Similar adventures await you in British Columbia too. Whistler Blackcomb, ranked repeatedly as the number one mountain resort by a “We have fabulous ski resorts in the Canadian Rockies,” said Judy variety of sources, has over eight thousand acres of skiable terrain at a Love Rondeau, the American travel media representative for Travel vertical rise of 5,280 feet on over two hundred trails. The staging area Alberta International. “But keep in mind that the majority of our skiing is for the 2010 Winter Olympics, Whistler’s two soaring mountains offer in a national park, so there are no lodges on the mountain. In other words, deluxe skiing with a variety of nearby lodging. Variety takes the shape ski resorts in Alberta don’t offer ski in–ski out accommodations.” of three half-pipes ranked in the top three by Transworld Snowboarding At Banff, Sunshine Village has one of the longest ski seasons in the and a snowboard cross venue, where you can try the motocross-like region and is spread across three mountains with 103 runs accessible by sport that made its Olympic debut in Torino. Celebrities like Pamela downhill skiers and snowboarders. Twelve lifts transport skiers from run Anderson, Justin Timberlake, and Cameron Diaz have been spotted at to run. Nearby, Mount Norquay is known for its diverse terrain, with Garfinkel’s in Whistler, where the party scene is as wild as the slopes. five chair lifts and 25 runs. Nakiska, with 28 beginner and experienced Just watch out, because the paparazzi might catch all your dazzling runs, was built for the 1988 Winter Olympic Games, with 70 percent of moves on tape. With the likes of Kevin Costner, Marcia Gay Harden, the terrain classified as intermediate. Canmore Nordic Centre Provincial Meg Ryan, Peter Fonda, Julianna Margulies, Pierce Brosnan, Ed Park, another site for 1988 Winter Olympic events, offers forty miles of Begley, Jr., and Robin Leach already scheduled for the Celebrity Sports Nordic and cross-country trails, as well as mountain bike trails that Invitational in January 2008, almost anyone could be swishing by you make this a popular destination year-round. at thirty miles per hour. 26 ❖ WOMENSWEAR lots of luxe B.I. fashion report: Fashion today transcends just one look. A multitude of trends reflect influences and flavors from around the world. Today’s consumer is well traveled and fashion savvy. The latest fashion images are literally at her fingertips, and she is no longer satisfied with the cookie- cutter looks of the past. She now has the freedom to express her own individuality. Today we are taking better care of ourselves through nutrition, exercise, and, yes, maybe a little medical procedure every now and then. This new youthful attitude can also be reflected in the way we present ourselves at work and at play this season! chic Luxurious coats, menswear influences, neutral tones, colorful accents, and modernized femininity both strong and sexy. ’40s glam Sometimes girls just want to be comfortable. This fall, comfortable clothes make a comeback. Look for beefy knits with a charming lack of pretension to be worn with opaque dark brown or black tights. The layered look is strong, punctuated with the broad belts that are one of the accessories that will define this year. Especially hot is a cardigan sweater with a tailored pant. Fluffy popcorn knits and enveloping cable knits separate this inviting casual wear from the back-of-the-office chair cardigan. Some of the sweaters have massive ribbed collars or cuffs. Pair chunky knit sweaters with delicate dresses or finegauge sweater-knit skirt suits instead of the standard woven fabrics like denim or twill. Draped and oversized knits in neutrals like ivory, gray, and black are the new go-with-everything over-garment. Casual themes include such staples as cashmere vee-neck sweaters in bold colours and dark premium denim. Dresses are going glam and glitzy, PHOTO COURTESY OF FABRIZIO GIANNI 50 WOMENSWEAR with jewel and feather details in shimmering shades of orange, red, and shiny neutrals. Influenced by the ’40s, body-conscious dresses with puffy short sleeves and pencil skirts hitting at the knee with high waists are in vogue. This curvy silhouette is all Hollywood! Fur is everywhere! Fur-trimmed coats and bright fur jackets add bold colour and get plenty of nods of approval. Wear with trim black trousers or tights for a modern, sexy look. Black leather roars back in more feminine pleats and ruffles on everything from jackets to skirts and tops. It’s quilted and refined—not motorcycle mama. Military influences are a year old now, but don’t give up on them quite yet. Mix and match satin with Shetland wool and silk with heavy tweeds. Velvet jackets with silver buttons worn with satin-cotton jodhpurs and ankle boots can do battle with the elements again this fall. It’s all part of the Anglo-influenced mix of tweeds and plaids in rich burgundy, olive, and navy blue. Immensely popular items include piped blazers, box-pleat skirts, belted jackets, jeweled brooches, cardi- hollywood HOT PHOTO COURTESY OF FABRIZIO GIANNI 52 Exceptional service, quality, and style applies to more than just high fashion. Visit our showroom and let our staff tailor the ultimate accessory to your lifestyle. Three Point Motors 2546 Government Street • Victoria, BC (250) 385-6737, www.threepointmotors.com FA S H I O N PHOTO COURTESY OF LUISA CERANO WOMENSWEAR REPORT shine & glitz Accessorize with exotic leathers and chunky jewels on bags, shoes, and bracelets. Snakes, alligators, and lizards, oh my! Studded, quilted, and jeweled skins in shiny black or bold bright colours like cobalt blue, pink, or tangerine orange bring your dark ensembles to life this fall. Don’t go too matchy; add contrast to the entire outfit, including your shoes. Strut your stuff in techno-age plastic or patent leather pumps in bright primary colours. Open-toed and strappy sandals—usually found in summer—reach deep into fall this season in metallics and autumn’s deeper hues. Mod ankle boots go great with tights and big tops. Sliver-wedge boots are both stylish and irresistibly comfortable. And the sexy pump-boot showing itself is versatile enough to wear with dresses, skirts, or pants. Remember the pins from the ’80s? They’re baaack! Silly and fun and full of faux jewels and gold, they make a boring sweater come to life. Necklaces and shiny, bangle bracelets (eight or ten at a time) are chunky and fully on display when worn with fall’s short-sleeve jackets, blouses, and dresses. More glamorous sparkle can be found in delicate dresses, blouses, and scarves adorned with sequins of every colour. Timeless and elegant! How about a strong, graphic, cubist print? Mod-inspired and fashion-aggressive in high contrasting colours, they look terrific with dark trousers and a large cuff bracelet. If an ’80s-inspired print is too much for you, try a tartan plaid in a jacket or skirt to add texture and pattern. manly style Pants from slim to wide-leg paired with structured, tailored jackets graced fall’s runways. Menswear prints, such as houndstooth, plaid, check, and pinstripe, are perennial fall favorites. This year, oversized patterns and mixed prints step up the energy. Concentrate on making a bold statement with a small dose of plaid or houndstooth, in a hat or scarf perhaps. The patterns are migrating to casual pieces, such as a draped skirt, in addition to the tailored items that traditionally bear menswear patterns. Try a pinstripe jacket or vest with a crisp, tuxedo-inspired black or white shirt. Wear it with a high-waisted, nicely tailored pencil skirt. It will put you in touch with your masculine side! Or simply soften the look with a jeweled knit top. Don’t take it too far though. At the bottom, a pair of vampy high heels is what separates the woman from the boys. Autumn’s new high-heeled oxford goes perfectly! Fall fashions reflect the time of year and the time of our lives—serious clothes with a bit of whimsy thrown in, which is much preferable to the opposite, really. New interpretations of perennial favorites will make shopping an adventure. lots of luxe PHOTO COURTESY OF LAUNDRY PHOTOS COURTESY OF LAFAYETTE 148 52 The Natural Face Lift...A Smile! Victoria’s Dental Hygiene Clinic Mary Ellen Breckenridge Suite 108 - 1030 Yates Street Victoria, BC V8V 5A7 382-SMILE (7645) • victoriadentalhygiene.ca Specialized in: • Zoom 2 One-Hour Whitening • Dental Cleanings • Gum Disease Therapy • Non Surgical Approach to Periodontal Disease • Professional Home Care Products The Colour Specialist LEONARD W. RAWLUK, CGA 1620 COOK STREET VICTORIA, B.C. V8T 3P1 250-388-5043 Business & Tax consultant to British Importers since 1980 BY FA S H I O N C. SMITH waistband and give your overall panache a righteous assist. Buttonedon suspenders, not a belt, go with your trousers, and you will add a pair of well-polished, if not patent, dress shoes to complete the ensemble. That sigh you hear is one of relief. After a decade of fanciful formalwear “options,” which left men more confused than ever, the tuxedo – aka. the male version of that “little black suit” Coco Chanel once famously called the most flattering of all styles – is back. And it’s back big time. No more head-scratching over invitational wording, no more secondguessing what everyone else will wear, no more last-minute “does this tie look right?” questioning of helpful-but-sartorially-challenged female family members. Just one, simple, easy-to-don outfit that you’re assured is eminently correct. Even flattering. Even, dare we say, sexy? LESLIE Simple, Sexy and Sartorially Elegant – Ladies and Gentlemen, Please Welcome the Return of the Tuxedo You are cordially invited to attend a formalwear revival. Place: Anytown, Canada Time: Fall/Winter 2007-08 Attire: Strictly black tie Past the age of 30, every man should own his own tuxedo. If he is smart, he will avoid rental shop sales like the plague, and purchase his formalwear from a reputable maker in a reputable menswear store. Smartest of all would be to get the tux custom-made, with plenty of seam allowance where it counts, so that the suit can be let out or taken in to adjust for periodic fluctuations in weight. You do this because you plan on owning your tux for a long time. Wellcrafted, from a good fabric, and looked after with the appropriate amount of care (dryclean only when steam-pressing won’t do, such as when your date accidentally spills her glass of wine on it) your tuxedo can last you a decade or more – quite simply an impossible feat for any rental shop “bargain.” No fear either that your tailor-made suit will go out of style – at 120 years and counting from its initial inception, the tux is possessed of remarkable staying power. For it is true that women find this kind of sharp-dressed man appealing. There is something so steady, so composed about a man in a tuxedo. A tux signals that its wearer knows how dress to suit the occasion – and his charming date. That he is in no whit unnerved by having to deal with slightly unfamiliar objects, such as bow ties and shirt studs. And it speaks to generations of good-looking guys who have all looked that much better because of this traditional mode of attire. But what if, just for argument’s sake, you do not own a tuxedo, and are so pressed for time that even a rental shop is not an option? In such an extremity, your best best would be to mimic as much as possible a tuxedo-like formality. Exactly why the tuxedo has returned this year to such acclaim, from designers, stylists and men’s retailers alike, is just as easy to understand. Whether we like it or not, the fact remains that casual clothes have made great in-roads in both business and after-hours wardrobes. Coats and ties are, in certain cases and among certain classes and job categories, losing ground to open-necked shirts and bare sleeves. Most of us no longer dress up to get on an airplane, go to the theater, or impress a new girlfriend. Take your darkest unpatterned suit; hopefully, one with uncuffed trousers. Put it with your whitest dress shirt. Choose your plainest black leather accessories – a buckle-through belt and lace-up oxford shoes with unperforated caps. Add a pair of black dress socks. The flipside of this state of affairs is that, when we want to wear something with a bit more flair, we can now bypass any fair-to-middling alternatives and head straight to the top: in other words, the tuxedo. Now comes the seriously hard part: You must comb through your necktie collection for something that is just right. A solid black tie, like the type some actors sport to the Academy Awards, might do, assuming you owned one. Chances are, however, you do not; unless you happen to attend a lot of funerals. So what you are looking for is something that is even better, something that will give your outfit not only a sheen of respectability but a bit of a boost. We’re talking a silk tie with a small repeating pattern in silver-and-black or, failing that, gold-and-black; “a wedding tie,” as it is known in the trade, due to its daytime formal associations. In a pinch, such as the one in which you’ve found yourself, it will do. This black or midnight blue (blacker-than-black, and thus better-than-black) premium wool suit quite rightly holds the hanger of honour in a man’s closet. It differs from any other tailored clothing you possess in several small, but tastefully telling, ways. Its labels, for instance, which might be curved in a graceful and unusual shawl effect, are likely faced with corded silk grosgrain. Its buttons are properly covered by material in the same hue as your suit. Its jacket pockets will be jetted slits, devoid of any flaps. Its trousers will definitely be uncuffed and might feature matching grosgrain trim down their twin outer seams, a stylistic holdover from military dress uniforms. Last but not, for our purposes, least, is the insertion of a white linen handkerchief in your jacket’s breast pocket. Regardless of whether you have on an honest-to-goodness tuxedo or more of a tuxedo-esque ensemble, just that little dab of white peeping three-quarters of an inch above your pocket slit is enough to let others know you really care about what you wear. And what you wear is dignified, even down to the slightest detail. ❖ A tux’s furnishings also rise above the norm. The shirt you wear will be crisply white and might boast a separate, stud-attached wing collar. Studs too, are usually used in place of plastic buttons. Your tie should be a black silk bow, not the more ordinary four-in-hand. A scooped-front formal vest or cummerbund sash will hide your trouser PHOTO COURTESY OF ROBERT TALBOTT 36 Creating exceptional properties at landmark locations in Victoria Imagine living in a heritage building conversion with completely modern conveniences. This select offering of nine unique town homes on a quiet James Bay side street is a rare gem. Tree-lined streets meander past shops, restored historic homes, British Columbia’s Legislature, Beacon Hill Park and Fisherman’s Wharf. Combine this incredible location with Redstone’s hip yet reflective design, and you have the best of modern living. With features such as; over-height ceilings, triple French doors, gas fireplaces, rooftop and privacy patios, secured parking, solid wood cabinetry, quartz countertops, tile and hardwood flooring, these homes are designed for those who appreciate the finer things in life. Priced from $469,900 to $639,000 CDN Fall 2007 occupancy in the village of James Bay. Crafted in concrete and faced with brick, Vicino is a timeless design being built to a higher standard. Choose a layout just right for your lifestyle – stylish one bedroom, one bedroom plus den, twobedrooms or two-bedroom plus den. These are professionally designed interior spaces complete with chef friendly kitchens featuring granite counters, stainless appliances and gas cook tops. Live within a short stroll of the world famous Victoria Inner Harbour and Dallas Road waterfront. Priced from $299,900 CDN 250- 381-1345 Toll free 1.800.663.2121 www.cieloproperties.ca FA S H I O N BY LESLIE C. SMITH Arms Man of and the The military has taken over menswear—and not a moment too soon P PHOTO COURTESY OF GARDEUR Great going The Great War’s greatcoat is a prime example of the enduring popularity of martial menswear. Back in the day, this full-length garment swaddled the British officer who wore it, keeping him warm and dry in the muddy trenches with its combination of thick wet-wicking wool fabric, heavy collar, and long double-breasted closure. Fast forward to fall 2007. Although the overcoat’s shape is essentially the same, tailored to a similar nicety, its material is a lot lighter and much more technically advanced, while the twin rows of dull bone buttons that made it hard for sharpshooters to target have been replaced by sniper-friendly shiny silvered ones. Silver metal, incidentally, represents a recurrent bright relief to this season’s mainly military-like neutral and dark tones. It crops up time and again in buttoning, heavy-metal zippers, and belt buckles on outerwear, as well as in men’s jewelry items, such as watches, neck chains, and ID bracelets. A nearly identical look, except for its length, is the hip-cropped peacoat, a longtime naval favorite. Made from (what else?) navy blue wool, this too is a double-breasted cut, set with a heavy-duty collar that can be turned up in inclement weather. An added bonus this year is how well the peacoat’s shape fits in with the general trend towards boxy, horizontal silhouettes. ity the poor men’s-fashion writer. For decades, each fall every designer used to harp on the same old, tired theme, that of the English country gentleman. Do you know how hard it is to make elbow-patched tweed jackets, corduroy trousers, and raglansleeved overcoats sound fresh and exciting every single blessed autumn, year in and year out? But lately, we’ve been liberated by an army of military-influenced looks, styles that do appear fresh and exciting to us, even though, paradoxically, they’re as venerable and time-tested as anything that went before. On the European runways, top designers like Burberry Prorsum’s Christopher Bailey are positively gung-ho about the practical panache that can be derived from the two big ones. World Wars I and II witnessed the rise and perfection of such garments as flight and battle jackets, trenchcoats and greatcoats, epauletted shirts, and artillery knits. All these and more were trooped down Burberry’s elevated stage this season, and fittingly so, since the company itself has long been associated with wartime wardrobes. Modern man, unless he happens to be a devotee of the History Channel, may be forgiven for not recognizing many of these styles. This in itself is a good thing, as it allows him to make each piece his own and not his grandfather’s. 38 Are you ready ... FOR THE 2008 LS600H-LWB? HYBRID Very well equipped from $133,775 including freight and pre delivery inspection. Available August, 2008 THE PURSUIT OF PERFECTION. Douglas at Finlayson • Victoria, BC 250-386-3516 • www.jpautogroup.com Arms Man of and the It’s da bomb American designer John Bartlett, who admits to being “obsessed with the military,” performed his own fall salute to the armed forces, offering such fashionable oddities as head-to-toe flightsuits and sweaters with oversized vee chevrons on their sleeves. Neither is recommended for even the most casual occasion, but among Bartlett’s truly wearable pieces was that perpetual flyboy icon: the shearling-collared bomber jacket. No matter what era you exist in, could anything be more masculine than a dark brown or black leather bomber, fitted at the waist and cuffs, with a large, shoulder-emphasizing collar lined with wavy-thick curls of raw wool? Remember too that this is the same jacket that evolved into our favorite peacetime slice of manly man-ness, the classic motorcycle jacket. If it was good enough for Marlon Brando, Robert Mitchum, and Steve McQueen, it definitely is okay with us. suggestive accouterments this season, particularly shirts with shoulder epaulettes, navy-worthy knit watch caps, plus sport coats and out-ofdoors jackets set with patch-and-flap ammunition pockets. Last season’s call to arms, namely uniformly matching shirts and ties in drab brown, olive, khaki, steel gray, and blue, are still very much with us. I like big boots Of course, no salute to the military would be complete without the dogface’s best friend: a pair of army boots. Heavy-soled, with thickly lugged treads, sturdy toe boxes, and front laces that reach past the ankle, these boots are really made for walking. And walk they did, down nearly every runway across two continents. While the ordinary businessman might not feel quite comfortable following the lead of the many designers who paired these boots with dress suits for a surprisingly interesting mix of formal and informal style, resistance to their use with sportswear will be much, much lower—especially when men rediscover how nice a hefty pair of boots appear when encircling the cuffs of casual pants and jeans, not to mention how well their bottom weight balances a top-heavy shouldered jacket. A final word of caution, however. Because it is so much fun to play with, a guy could get carried away in his allegiance toward veteran battle garb. But just like real warfare, martial style should be employed judiciously. One or two pieces worn with otherwise ordinary civvy clothing is cool. Any more than this, though, and you run the risk of looking like a raw fashion recruit. ❖ Allied details Speaking of leather, plain leather belts in matte black (with the obligatory silver buckle) help dress up much of this season’s outerwear. Though these are just one to two inches in width, they still lend a distinct Sam Browne army-belt aura when cinched around the waist of a trenchcoat or tailored overjacket. Only one designer went so far as to play around with leather suspenders, criss-crossing them, bandoleerstyle, over the shoulders. That designer was Alexander McQueen (no relation to Steve), and you may feel free to ignore his idea. You will find yourself forcefully drawn, however, to other soldierly- a british invasion is underway. are we playing polo or entrenched for whatever fall’s inclement weather throws at us? Either way, bomber-style and epaulette-detailed jackets and shirts have landed on the runway this season. 40 PHOTO COURTESY OF GARDEUR Ready to take the next step? Personalized Service…Personalized Solutions. Let me help you make your home dreams a reality. Are you buying your first home, a second home or refinancing a mortgage? I have access to the latest information and I constantly monitor changing market conditions. As an RBC Royal Bank Mortgage Specialist, my job is to help and guide potential homebuyers in the financing of their purchase. I’d be glad to help you. My specialized knowledge of RBC Royal Bank’s many mortgage options is entirely at your disposal. Call me, “Rhonda Hawthorne - 250-885-6900 [email protected] MAN OF STYLE BY RICHARD TORREGROSSA CARY GRANT and the secrets Is there such a thing as the perfect suit? Alec Guinness tried to of the perfect suit make one in The Man in the White Suit, the 1951 movie in which he plays Sidney Stratton, a crazy creator who claims to have invented an indestructible garment. “Long-chain molecules stuck together…amino acid residues,” Stratton exclaims in the euphoria of scientific discovery, “cotton and silk and other natural fibers…we’ve learned to make artificial fibers with even longer chains such as rayon and nylon…you’ve heard of nylon, haven’t you?...ionic groups.peptide changes…and…presto! I’ve done it! I’ve done it!” Of course this throws the entire menswear industry into a panic because, as the factory boss points out, “This will finish output! Not increase it!” Fortunately the scheme backfires and calm is restored to a jittery industry. Just a few years later Cary Grant achieved the sartorial perfection in 1959’s North by Northwest that eluded Guinness’s character. But he does it without any scientific hi-jinks. Grant works his magic by employing the most low-tech of techniques—good taste. And rather than harm, he helps the haberdashery industry by inspiring men to dress better, even to this day. “His secret, or one of them,” says menswear legend Martin Greenfield, who in his sixty-year career has made clothes for everybody from Cary Grant to Colin Powell, “is that Grant wore very simple things. You very seldom if ever saw him in a loud pattern or colour.” As Grant scales mountains, flees murderous villains in crop dusters, and races across corn fields his tastefully tailored suit never seems the worse for wear. Like the suit Guinness tried to invent, it is indestructible. But it has an added bonus. It is seductively stylish, helping Grant to catch the eye of blonde beauty Eva Marie Saint. Grant’s sartorial achievement in North by Northwest has been well documented, but most of the information about it is wrong. Here, then, for the first time are the secrets of the suited hero in North by Northwest, some of which I discovered after researching and writing my biography, Cary Grant: A Celebration of Style, foreword by Giorgio Armani. The first misconception has to do with colour. The suit has been described as charcoal or mid-gray. It was not. It was actually a very subtle and shrewd mix of two distinct tones. Greenfield agrees. “The colour that Cary Grant used to wear in that era was always a blue with a charcoal background,” he says. “It’s a perfect colour for any person in the world with any type of skin complexion.” The second misconception is that the suit is a solid blend. It actually has a very subtle pattern, a glen plaid. The mistake is understandable, because onscreen it certainly appears at times to be a solid mid-gray, but this is largely the result of the intense set lighting that softens or at times eradicates fine details. Another reason for the suit’s gray appearance is that its blend of colours and glen-plaid pattern resolve in long shots to a luminous but seemingly solid hue in very much the same way the brush strokes in a Monet painting become less evident and the image more sharply focused when you step back from it. There has also been some confusion about the button treatment. Is the suit a two- or a three-button? A close viewing of the film clearly shows that it is a three-button, but the top button is somewhat hidden because of the way the lapel is shaped. “We rolled to the second button then,” says Greenfield. “Today we do a higher roll, so you can plainly see the top button.” 42 your table awaits... offering the finest French cuisine in intimate and relaxed surroundings Restaurant Matisse Located in the heart of Victoria’s downtown Inner Harbour “Superb” Restaurant Restaurant Review Review from from Times Times Colonists' Colonists' Pam Pam Grant Grant 512 Yates St., Victoria, B.C. (250) 480-0883 www.restaurantmatisse.com C A R Y G R And Grant’s tailor? He was a patron of Hawes & Curtis, Norton & Sons, and Cordings, to name a few. But Kilgour, French, & Stanbury of Savile Row made the suit—or rather suits— for North by Northwest. Fred Stanbury, one of the best master tailors to ever work on Savile Row, did the actual cutting himself. When Grant was asked how he managed to remain so crisp and elegant in this actionpacked Hitchcock thriller, he responded with typical wit: “Six suits and many ties.” But Greenfield adds a word of caution about the Cary Grant look. “Everybody thought that everything he wore was made in England. But that’s not the way it works. We make the same looks. Another important aspect of the suit that makes it appear impressively elegant is that it is ventless with a long “skirt,” a feature that flattered Grant’s 6’1” 180 lb. physique. The long skirt of his jackets accentuated his slimness and the length of his silhouette, a detail Frank Sinatra sometimes overlooked. “Sinatra’s jackets were too short,” Greenfield states flatly. And Sinatra on the whole was a thoughtful and natty dresser. So does this make Grant the embodiment of sartorial perfection? A N T • M A N O Carlo Brandelli, the current creative director of Kilgour, at No. 8 Savile Row, must think there’s always room for improvement. This year he brought back the Cary Grant North by Northwest suit, but in an updated version for an exhibition in Italy called “The London Cut” where tailors from Savile Row displayed their best bespoke garments. It was the hit of the show and demand has been brisk. Kilgour is still receiving orders for what has become know as “the perfect suit.” Clearly, Cary Grant’s style is as relevant today as it was more than forty years ago. F S T Y L E CARY GRANT TRIVIA Archibald Alec Leach (January 18, 1904– November 29, 1986), better known by his screen name Cary Grant, was a British-born film actor. An only child, he had a confused and unhappy childhood. His mother Elsie (who had apparently never overcome her depression after the death of a previous child in infancy) was placed by his father in a mental institution when Archie was ten. His father told him that she had gone away on a “long holiday,” and it was only in his thirties that he found out she was still alive and institutionalized. With his distinctive mid-Atlantic accent, he was noted as perhaps the foremost exemplar of the debonair leading man, handsome, witty, and charming. Grant was a favorite actor of Alfred Hitchcock, notorious for disliking actors, who said that Grant was “the only actor I ever loved in my whole life.” Grant appeared in such Hitchcock classics as Suspicion, Notorious, To Catch a Thief and North by Northwest. According to Brandelli, “the original suit was a heavy-weight fourteen-ounce, fully lined, a ventless three-button.” Brandelli modernized it by using a lighter cloth and making it into a halflined one-button with short vents. To complete the suited-hero look in North by Northwest, Grant wore a white button-down shirt with a narrow tie. The shirt was off-therack. Cary Grant often bought off-the-rack garments if the fit was right. He was no slave to tailors, proving that elegance is not solely a matter of big bucks and bespoke. Finally, the suit is remarkable for one other reason. It lacks a pocket square, an accessory that was a staple of Cary Grant’s wardrobe throughout most of his career. Why he did not wear one in this film is a mystery, a sartorial secret that adds to his mystique and teaches us that a well-dressed man is never predictable. ❖ Richard Torregrossa is the author of Cary Grant: A Celebration of Style, foreword by Giorgio Armani, afterword by Michael Kors. www.richardtorregrossa.com 44 In the film A Fish Called Wanda, the character played by John Cleese is named Archibald Leach, Cary Grant’s real name. Cleese was born in Weston-super-Mare, just a few kilometers from Grant’s birthplace, Bristol. Grant replaced James Stewart as the hapless ad man Roger Thornhill in North by Northwest. Years earlier, Stewart replaced Grant as Rupert Cadell in Rope, in which another character makes reference to Grant’s first film with Ingrid Bergman, Notorious. Some of his younger fans told him that he looked just like the comic book superhero Captain Marvel. (However, cartoonist C. C. Beck in fact based the superhero’s appearance on fellow actor Fred MacMurray.) Tony Curtis used an obvious impersonation of Grant's distinctive voice when his character is posing as a playboy in Some Like it Hot. This prompts Jack Lemmon's character to say, “Nobody talks like that!” The film was set in the 1920s United States, so he was probably right. Reportedly, after seeing the film, Cary Grant said of Curtis’ impression, “I don't talk like that!” While Grant was nominated for two Academy Awards in the 1940s, he was denied the Oscar throughout his active career. Grant finally received a special Academy Award for Lifetime Achievement in 1970. Cashmere Classics FA S H I O N The story of Selvage By Jeff Shafer, President of Jake Agave Denimsmith Selvage…there’s not a man’s magazine on the stands or many catalogs in the mail that don’t sell this mythical denim. It’s become the recent catch-phrase in the premium denim market, yet so few actually know much about what exactly selvage denim is, despite it’s popularity. Is it simply another status level of premium denim, or is there a story behind selvage? There is in fact a story behind selvage denim, but oddly enough, it’s sometimes hard to describe what makes selvage the “gold standard” of denim. Simply put, when you purchase selvage you’re buying a little bit of old school. You’re buying denim made the way it used to be made. All woven fabrics (of which denim is one) are made on looms. Anyone with a sense of history knows that hand looms have been around since ancient times, and they are still used today by artisan weavers. It wasn’t until the late 1880s that electric shuttle looms were developed and used to weave denim. The fabric itself was narrow—about 29 to 30 inches wide. This means of making denim lasted until the mid 1960s. Selvage—or selvedge and self-edge—got its name from the finished edges of the fabric, and mills used a coloured stripe on the edge to identify the brand they were supplying. It’s no surprise that the classic selvage denim was from Levi–Strauss, and their edging was a red stripe. It’s a misconception, however, that the selvage is what makes the fabric great or desirable. The selvage is only an identifying mark. What makes this denim interesting is that it is made on vintage shuttle looms. Despite the rapid changes of the 1880s and the Industrial Revolution, the original looms were not very sophisticated. They were, in fact, very slow. The looms were making work wear, and this required that theyarns be ring spun for strength. The size of the yarn itself was not important to the finished product and also created a looser “weave.” Since the yarn sizes were blended into the finished product (in order to save money), the fabric was “imperfect” (by today’s standards) and thus had character. This raw denim would start out as a super dark indigo, but as these jeans were broken in by workers, they showed beautiful colour and yarn character. Because the weaves were loose there was also a lot of give (stretch), and they had a high comfort factor. As with most things in American pop culture, the image of the American worker combined with the great performance of a pair of selvage jeans, created a cultural revolution. Think James Dean or Marlon Brando, circa 1950s, with the cuffs rolled up. By the 1960s, Levi’s and denim in general went from being a work uniform to a fashion item for a new generation. This ultimately spelled the demise of selvage denim. In order to meet the demands of retailers for more jeans, speed of delivery, and constancy in the product, the shuttle looms were scrapped for a wider 60 inch modern power loom. Gone was the red selvage identifier, because shuttle looms were not used. Ring spun yarns were too expensive and would give way to open end yarns. Gone, too, was dark indigo denim, as the fashion of the times favored bleached and faded denim. The shuttle loom selvage became extinct. It was the Japanese who brought selvage denim back to the forefront. In the 1980s, elements in the young Japanese culture became fascinated and then obsessed with vintage Levi’s. It was not just Levi’s the 46 name, but rather old Levi’s made in the fashion of old shuttle loom selvage denim. Obviously these looms had to be found and refurbished, and once they were, the Japanese led the way in re-creating the old vintage Levi selvage denim. By the late 1990s this trend crossed to both the United States and Europe, where selvage denim has received a favorable welcome. In fall 2006, Jake Agave Denimsmith introduced three styles of authentic shuttle loom selvage denim called Agave Goldenstate. Like I said before, it’s hard to describe what makes selvage denim so much better than the jeans made on the faster and newer equipment. Speaking for myself though, I have five pairs of selvage denim—two Levi’s reproductions and, obviously, three pair of Agave Goldenstates. I would wear them everyday if I could, but I want to keep them forever, because they’re my favorite jeans! ❖ /=PA@ EJ PDA 1KL KB =J=@E=J KQNOAO BEJ@ KQP SDU (PMG%JHFTU 3PZBM $PMXPPE $ , ) # ) 2 5IFSFBSFBMJNJUFEOVNCFSPGNFNCFSTIJQTOPXBWBJMBCMFDBMMGPSEFUBJMT -JGF±TUPPTIPSUUPQMBZHPMGPOBOPSEJOBSZHPMGDPVSTF /LIH¶VWRRVKRUWWR3OD\*ROIRQD2UGLQDU\*ROI&RXUVH 'PS .FNCFSTIJQ *OGPSNBUJPO XXXSPZBMDPMXPPEPSH ZZZUR\DOFROZRRGRUJ ZZZUR\DOFROZRRGRUJ HPDLOMRLQWKHFOXE#UR\DOFROZRRGRUJ FNBJMNFNCFSTIJQ!SPZBMDPMXPPEPSH HPDLOMRLQWKHFOXE#UR\DOFROZRRGRUJ BY FA S H I O N put it in GARY WOLLENHAUPT neutral All gray was all good this summer but now is the time to add rich and warm neutral tones to your autumn wardrobe. For fall, neutral colours take on new prominence, lending an air of sophistication to casual and business wardrobes. There is nothing boring about the new rich and luxurious tones of fall. Neutral colours include shades of black, slate, chocolate, khaki, and even olive. Fellas, you will enjoy these neutral shades because they make your decisions easier. You don’t have to worry whether the pink in a tie complements a pink shirt. Neutrals go with everything! Go ahead and mix and match different shades of the same colour. Go monochromatic! Wear different textures of the same colour, such as a khaki cotton shirt with a khaki-coloured wool pant. And layer it! Layer it! Layer it! Shirt under sweater under sport jacket under scarf! Neutrals work well with all colours or can be worn together. Try khaki slacks, a crisp white shirt, and a gray sweater ensemble or maybe olive green cords with a chocolate cashmere cable v-neck topped by a new suede shearling coat. Look smashing in dark grey wool trousers with a chunky black turtleneck and a British-inspired grey tweed jacket like that pictured here. Varying textures can keep your look dynamic even if you’re wearing basically the same colour from top to bottom. Textures and patterns add depth to neutral colours with subtle shadowing, transforming an otherwise close range of colours, allowing them to do the duty of a wider spectrum. It’s an elegant, understated look that will get you noticed for the right reasons. Chocolate brown has come out of the closet as business wear. It may not be appropriate for the most formal of occasions, but it makes for a slightly more casual look suitable for the office, a fashionable alternative to the traditional dark gray or dark blue suit. And don’t be afraid to wear a crisp white shirt with it as opposed to tan. Pair it with a rust/orange based tie and paisley pocket square and you’re in business. Choosing accessories can cause some uncertainty. A gray suit, for instance, might naturally be paired with a black belt and shoes. But brown accents are not only perfectly acceptable but even preferred for the new season. ❖ 48 AUTOMOTIVE BY GARY WOLLENHAUPT bella macchina Ferrari 612 Scaglietti Owning a Ferrari is a way of life ITALIAN BY DESIGN Since its founding, Ferrari has been the team to beat in postwar Formula 1 racing, and a force to be reckoned with in a variety of sports cars series, including epic battles with Porsche and Ford at the 24 Hours of Le Mans. In Formula 1 Ferrari has won 14 World Driver Championships, 14 World Constructors Championships, and more than 180 Grand Prix victories, as well as other titles. Racing technology honed since 1947 has found its way into the road cars, including this year’s model lineup. Celebrating sixty years as a company, Ferrari has developed a global brand name far in excess of its automobile production, which numbers more than 100,000 cars since 1947. By comparison, Toyota turns out about 400,000 Camry models a year from its Georgetown, Kentucky, plant. Some would see lack of production as a failure. That would be true only if Ferrari were a company created to build cars, like Toyota. But Ferrari was founded for one reason: racing. After serving in the Italian army in World War I, Enzo Ferrari joined Alfa Romeo’s racing team, first as a test driver and racer and later as team manager. He launched his own team, Scuderia Ferrari, in 1929, still working with Alfa Romeo. In 1939, he broke away from Alfa Romeo to race on his own. When World War II ended, Enzo reopened the doors of Scuderia Ferrari, as the racing team is known. Going fast is expensive, so he decided to build road cars to fund his racing schemes. The rest is, as they say, history. To raise money, Ferrari sold half of the company to auto giant Fiat in 1969, which came to control the majority of the company upon Ferrari’s death in 1988. Fiat funded expansion of the Ferrari factory and instilled modern manufacturing discipline in what was previously a handcrafted assembly process. Today, the company produces about 5,000 cars a year, and about a third of that total makes its way to the United States. 612 Scaglietti The 612 Scaglietti continues Ferrari’s tradition of 2+2 coupes. Although designed by Pininfarina, the new model is named after the great Sergio Scaglietti, the coachbuilder and stylist responsible in the 1950s and ’60s for some of the most beautiful Ferraris ever. The 612 Scaglietti’s touch of character is found in its scalloped sides, a styling cue borrowed from the legendary 375 MM bought by director Roberto Rossellini for actress Ingrid Bergman. The front midengine-mounted V12 engine displaces 5.7 liters and punches out 540 horsepower for a full high-performance driving experience. The 612 Scaglietti offers a six-speed gearbox or an F1-inspired paddleshift gearbox. The luxurious cabin can be further personalized courtesy of the vast Carrozzeria Scaglietti custom-styling program. The 612 integrates technology with tradition, featuring satellite navigation, voice recognition, Bluetooth connection, and a Compact Flash device that stores music. Racing improves the breed How does a small Italian car manufacturer gain worldwide prominence? By winning. 50 EXPERIENCE THE 2008 MASTERS Imagine the shadow lengthening around you in the golden afternoon as you stroll across the staggeringly beautiful fairways that play host to the Masters every year in Augusta. Your mind has already begun to wander into the VIP hospitality suite with its manifold delights, but suddenly a murmur begins to ripple through the crowd: Tiger Woods is storming the leader board in search of his fifth green jacket! Arrive in style with a private police escort and spend the final day of the Masters walking alongside the best golfers in the world as they pursue the coveted green jacket. Celebrate victory in the shelter of our exclusive VIP Hospitality suite, then retire to the luxurious Ritz-Carlton Reynolds Plantation to re-live the highlights over a nightcap and cigar. Play the designer championship courses around Reynolds Plantation for two days of challenging and exhilarating golf with your foursome, then return home to start counting the days until next year... SATURDAY CHATEAU ELAN SUNDAY CHATEAU ELAN SUNDAY RITZ-CARLTON Day 1 Atlanta. Overnight. Day 2 Augusta. Police escort, watch the penultimate tournament day, enjoy VIP hospitality, overnight Chateau Elan. Days 3&4 Chateau Elan. Play 2 of the 3 championship courses. Day 1 Atlanta. Overnight. Day 2. Augusta. Police escort, watch the final tournament day, enjoy VIP hospitality, overnight Chateau Elan. Days 3&4 Chateau Elan. Play 2 of the 3 championship courses. Day 1 Atlanta. Overnight Day 2 Augusta. Police escort, watch the final tournament day, enjoy VIP hospitality, overnight Ritz-Carlton. Days 3&4 RitzCarlton Reynolds Plantation. Play 2 of the 5 championship courses. DATES Apr 11-14, 2008 PRICES* $4,995 CDN SGL SUPP $500 DATES Apr 12-15, 2008 PRICES* $5,250 CDN SGL SUPP $550 DATES Apr 12-15, 2008 PRICES* $5,750 CDN SGL SUPP $750 *airfare additional Hillside Centre Victoria, BC | (250) 595-1181 | 1-888-870-9081 | www.totemtravel.ca | [email protected] AUTOMOTIVE 599 GTB Fiorano Continuing the Ferrari tradition of frontengine grand touring machines, the 599 GTB Fiorano is the most powerful V12 production car of all time. The car blends the company’s traditional approach to car design with the best that technology has to offer. The 599 represents the latest interpretation of a theme that has seen such classics as the 250 GT, the 275 GTB, and the 365 GTB4. The 599 GTB Fiorano boasts class-leading power with its 5,999cc V12—derived directly from the Enzo Ferrari supercar—which produces 620 horsepower. The 599 GTB’s F1 gearbox cuts overall gear-shift times to 100 milliseconds by simultaneously performing the steps involved in shifting. The clutch seamlessly disengages and then re-engages as the power is fed back in faster than any human could achieve. All-aluminum construction imparts a rocksolid chassis with weight savings, compared to past construction methods. The result is better performance all around, from cornering speeds to fuel economy. F430 The F430 is the latest generation of Ferrari V8-powered berlinettas. All aspects of the car were inspired by the engineering research carried out at Ferrari’s Gestione Sportiva F1 racing division. Foremost is the electronic differential, developed by Ferrari for its F1 race cars to make the most of the Ferrari F430 engine’s torque to optimize traction. Just like a Formula 1 driver, the F430 driver can change the car’s setup using a selector set on the steering wheel. The manettino, as it is called by Scuderia Ferrari drivers, is a commutator switch that allows the driver to set the car’s suspension settings, traction control, and transmission for various road conditions, from icy surfaces to the race track. The 4.3-liter V8 is surrounded by an aluminum chassis and is visible through the clear cover. The car’s shape generates downforce without wings spoiling the classic lines. The F430 Spider, Ferrari’s only convertible currently in production, boasts an electric top that takes up relatively little space when lowered, despite the uncompromising central-rear engine layout. bella macchina 2007 models Great attention to detail and flawless execution characterize both Italian fashion and Italian automotive design. Ferrari 599 GTB Fiorano 52 AUTOMOTIVE With one quick glance, it is clear to all, a Ferrari is haute couture on wheels. Whether they’ve bought a new car straight from the showroom or drive a classic model, Ferrari owners form an exclusive group, from Arabian princes to film stars to elite athletes, not to mention successful entrepreneurs. TV funnyman David Letterman is a noted collector, as is actor Nicolas Cage. Wall Street guru Lawrence Auriana frequently shows Ferraris in his collection at Concours d’Elegance exhibitions and drives his multimillion-dollar collectibles in rallies. Ferrari encourages the lifestyle with exclusive clubs and events. Owners can join any number of clubs that bring owners together for social activities as well as to show off their cars. The Scuderia Ferrari Club was launched by Ferrari to coordinate the activities of the many clubs to which the Scuderia’s fans belong. Ferrari 250 GT SWB The Ferrari driving experience One of the unique experiences of Ferrari ownership is an invitation to the first authorized driving school outside of Italy. Located at the scenic Mt. Tremblant race track in Quebec, students learn techniques to help control and enjoy their cars at the limit of their ability in a controlled environment. The North America Driving School offers instruction corresponding to Pilota Ferrari courses, which take place at the Fiorano track in Maranello, Italy. For more than ten years, Ferrari has organized different driving courses in a progressive series of steps leading up to a true racing course, which is only offered in Italy. The school runs from May until September and is limited to owners of Ferrari cars. Reservations can be made through Ferrari North America or through an authorized Ferrari dealer. visit www.experienceferrari.com for dates and costs of the driving courses. Official Ferrari Site www.ferrariworld.com Ferrari 275 Touring Members of affiliated clubs enjoy a range of special services and opportunities, including the chance to visit the factory, attend Formula 1 test days, and even get discounts at the Ferrari Store. Two large groups, the Ferrari Club of America and the Ferrari Owners Club, help owners get the most out of their cars through national and regional meetings and publications. Regional chapters often sponsor track days so owners can drive their cars legally at high speeds on a racetrack to experience the thoroughbred performance of these Italian works of art. Ferrari owners and aficianados gather at major shows each year, such as the Pebble Beach Concours d’Elegance and Concorso Italiano shows in Monterey, California, and a plethora of events on the East Coast, where owners subject their cars to judging based on originality. More than an expensive car, a Ferrari is a gateway to a new lifestyle and six decades of tradition. ❖ Ferrari 365 Spyder 54 Ferrari Owners Club www.ferrariownersclub.org Ferrari Club of America www.ferrariclubofamerica.org Live life to the fullest— on a motorcycle built just for that! 4 Hour Dry-Cleaning and Shirt Service Till 12 Daily • Saturdays Included We handle all your Dry Cleaning & Laundry Needs Delivery Services 5 Days per Week 388-6211 Open 6:00a-6:00p Mon-Fri • 7a-5:30p Sat. 2922 Tillicum Road, Victoria SteveDraneHarley.com Steve Drane Harley-Davidson Ltd. 735 Cloverdale Ave., Victoria, BC V8X 2S6 250-475-1345 International Award Winning Jewellery Designers i dar’s award-winning designs focus on a blend of contemporary West Coast themes with modern interpretations of ancient Celtic styles. Three burnished gold bees point the way to a small, distinctive shop on Fort Street where, for 35 years, Idar Jewellers has been creating and designing handforged jewellery. Calla Lily, 1st place — 2000 originality + craftmanship Every piece, individually made by hand, is brought to life by a creative staff of trained professionals. Idar Jewellers is a member of the American Gem Society, the Canadian Jewellers’ Association and the Society of North American Goldsmiths. For Idar Bergseth, the shop’s namesake, commitment to European craftsmanship and passion for beautiful design are long-held traditions. An apprentice jewellery designer at the age of 16, Idar later opened his own store in Victoria in 1972, when one-of-a-kind jewellery was a new concept. Across North America, it is still unusual to find handmade, one-of-a-kind jewellery, which makes Idar’s designs stand out even more. Thirty-five years later, Idar’s commitment and passion are stronger then ever and shared by his entire team. The calla lily ring designed by Idar and David Dahl has won top prize at the prestigious Saul Bell Awards in the United States. Made of platinum, 18 karat yellow gold and 19 karat white gold, the ring features a calla lily and leaf design. The award is just one of several international awards that have been won by Idar Jewellers. Beyond quality and design, Idar Jewellers believes in social and ethical responsibility. Canadian diamonds, now recognized as some of the best and most ethical stones in the world, are featured in many of Idar’s designs. Victoria 946 Fort Street T 250-383-3414 Member: Jewellery Designs © 2007 IDAR Society of North American Goldsmiths Edmonton 10339 120 Street T 780-451-3551 American Gem Society Canadian Jewellers Association www.idar.com MAN MAGNUM ® - ARE REGISTERED TRADEMARKS OF GEOX GEOX.COM - INTERNATIONAL PATENT - GEOX® - RESPIRA® - INTERNATIONAL PATENT By combining a microperforated rubber sole and the breathable waterproof membrane, the Geox system lets foot perspiration go out through the sole thus keeping your feet dry and healthy.