Tonk, Rajasthan - Design Clinic Scheme

Transcription

An interactive Design Study of
Namda of Tonk
Need Assessment Survey and Design
Awareness Workshops Repor t
MSME Design Clinic Scheme, 2012
Design Expert- Chandrashekhar Bheda
Support- RUDA Jaipur Rajasthan
An interactive Design Study of
Namda of Tonk
Need Assessment Survey and Design
Awareness Workshops Repor t
MSME Design Clinic Scheme, 2012
Design Expert- Chandrashekhar Bheda
Support- RUDA Jaipur Rajasthan
Content
Content
Design Clinic Scheme for MSME
Need Assessment Survey
Preface
Tonk at a Glance
History of Felt Making
Present Status of Namda Industry of Tonk
Manufacturing Process of Traditional Namda
Woollen Felt Sheets Manufacturing
Semi Manual Manufacturing Process of Felt
Mechanical Manufacturing Process of Felt
Synthetic Felt Sheet Products
Synthetic Felt Sheet Products- Process
List of MSMEs and Their Issues
Collective Core Issues
Issues- Existing Product Range
Issues- Quality of Felt Production
Issues- Expanding Applications & Usage of Felt
Issues- Workers Unavailability for Two Months
Issues- Health Hazards to Workers
Issues- Human Safety at Work,
Issues- Ergonomics & Workstation
Issues- Poor Infrastructure and Absence of CFC
Issues- Under Explored Craft Techniques
Issues- Unchanged Imagery and Aesthetic
Issues- Visual Merchandising and Display
Issues- Packaging and Transportation
Issues- National Level Absence of Namda Craft
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Issues- Present Market
Some more issues
Conclusions
Existing Inter Cluster Professional Relationship and Marketing Linkages
Proposed Market Expansion after Interventions
Product Range Existing and Proposed
Scope of Interventions at a Glance
SWOT Analysis
Series of Design Awareness Workshops
D A Workshop on 24th July 2012 at Tonk
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Sharing of on the spot remedial solutions to some the issues
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D A Workshop on 28th July 2012 at Jaipur
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D A Workshops press coverage
Design Project Potential for Phase 3 MSME-DCS
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Panel of guest speakers participated in the workshops
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RUDA- Rural Non Farm Development Agency
Chandrashekhar Bheda
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Design Clinic Scheme of MSME: NAS Report by Chandrashekhar Bheda on Tonk Namda Cluster, Rajasthan
Support- Rural Non Farm Development Agency, Jaipur
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Scheme information
The Micro, Small and Medium Enterprises (MSME) sector has been
recognised as the engine of economic growth. Many countries all
over the world have established a SME Development Agency as the
nodal agency to coordinate and oversee all government
interventions with respect to the development of this sector.
The Micro, Small and Medium Enterprises (MSMEs) are a vital part of
the Indian economy. They contribute to over 45% of industrial
production and around 40% of the total exports. There are about 13
million MSMEs in India, which employ about 31 million people. Thus
MSMEs are the single largest contributor in terms of employment
generation, besides production and export revenues in the
manufacturing sector. Presence of MSMEs is seen in the value chain
of almost all major industry sectors like automotive industry, garments
and textile industry, leather industry and drug and pharmaceutical
industry etc.
Role of Design in Improving Competitiveness:
Design is an approach, process & methodology. Design is intended,
purposeful, contextual, which is aimed to create advantage, distinct
& futuristic outcome to the existing scenario. Design being systemic
and holistic in nature, helps in generating more creative, impactful
and sustainable solutions.
Design intervention in business is to create value addition to existing
products and services. Through design process, MSMEs can add
value to products, services, and in the process to their firms.
Design, innovation & growth are closely linked. Innovation & design
are not simply about new products or technology. They are also
about how to improve/diversify products for everyday use, leading to
reduced costs, increased utility & acceptability resulting in new
business opportunities. It is recognized as an innovative discipline that
can help MSMEs to sustain & grow in competitive market.
Design Clinic Scheme for Design Expertise to MSMEs, a unique and
ambitious design intervention scheme for the country's micro,small
and medium scale enterprises, is an initiative of Ministry of MSME,
Government of India launched under National Manufacturing
Competitiveness programme. The main objective of the Design
Clinic Scheme is to bring MSME sector and design expertise to a
common platform and to provide expert advice and solutions on
real time design problems, resulting in continuous improvement and
value addition for existing products and services. This model brings
exposure to design thinking and process to the door steps of industry
clusters for design awareness, improvement, evaluation, analysis and
design related intervention and application. Design clinic scheme will
assist industrial clusters to open a channel for design information
inflow for creative, innovative and futuristic approach towards
products, processes, operations, manufacturing and business design.
The scheme will help generate insight for opportunity identification
and design intervention for competitive and breakthrough solutions
for MSMEs.
The objective of Design Clinic scheme is to enhance industry
competitiveness and productivity with the help of design intervention
and application at various functional levels. Design Clinic Scheme is
structured to provide design related help through design awareness
seminar, design awareness programme and design projects to give
design inputs to products and services of MSMEs to enhance
competitiveness. The scheme provides help through financial
assistance at different stages for better implementation of scheme
and design awareness.
National Institute of Design (NID), Ahmedabad assists the Ministry of
MSME, Government of India, as Nodal Agency for implementation of
the scheme.
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For easy percolation of design thinking and philosophy and
maximum benefit for MSME units implementation of the Design Clinic
Scheme is spread into following 3 broader areas. These areas help in
smooth transition of design intervention to MSME industrial and
business clusters.
1. Design Awareness Seminar
2. Design Awareness programme
a. Need Assessment Survey
b. Design Clinic Workshop
3. Design Projects (handled by Design Professionals/ Student
Designers)
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Need Assessment Survey
Objectives:
The objective of need assessment survey is to generate detailed
cluster information to understand the core issues related toRaw Material at different stages of manufacturing
Infrastructure setup and work station
Skill and techniques
Surface design patterns and painting
Product form, shape and usage
Tools and technology in use
Capability of manufacturing unit
Present Market status
Customer expectation and behaviour
Current Competition
Packaging, logistic and storage
Exhibition, display and merchandising
Methodology:
area for design intervention or scopes which can be further workout
and can be taken up during the design clinic workshop and areas
taken up as design projects with in and outside the cluster scenario.
Participants
The Need Assessment Study ‘ the design survey’ was conducted by
Design Expert Chandrashekhar Bheda
in association with
Rural Non Farm Development Agency, Jaipur,
National Iistitute of Design, Ahmedabad
And
Micro Small and Medium Scale Enterprise.
Questionnaire survey of manufacturing and sales units.
Discussion with unit owner and artisans.
Process observation
Find traces from earlier technique and usage of tools and material
Self observation and analysis.
Expected Deliverables:
This extensive design research is intended to provide qualitative and
detail data of the cluster to generate insights about this craft which
would help to address the existing problems and future opportunity
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Preface
In India, Rajasthan is indisputably recognized worldwide for its
traditionally manufactured handicrafts, including wooden, metalbased, stone, ceramics & textile products.
· Investments over `2000 crore have been made in the sector
· Jodhpur and Jaipur are prominent centers for handicraft
industry
· Handicraft exports from the State during 2006-07 stand at
nearly `2000 crore, accounting for 20% of India's export.
· Rajasthan stands second in India's handicraft exports, next to
Uttar Pradesh.
· Currently, there are more than 2000 units in the handicraft
export business, employing more than 5 lakh people.
· The State's handicraft sector is witnessing a growth of 10%
annually
Interestingly, Namda Manufacturing Industry of Tonk Rajasthan has
MSMEs manufacturing mechanically produced woollen felts as well
as handcrafted Namda Felt craft clusters working together for many
years.
There are MSME units here producing woollen felt sheets for industrial
usage like washers, filters etc and the same units do provide felt
sheets as raw material to namda craft units who create colourful
traditional appliqué handcrafted namdas as floor coverings and
variety of accessories.
The combination 'machine made and hand crafted' feature was the
reason to carry our Interactive design study and Need Assessment
Survey under MSME's Design Clinic Scheme.
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Tonk at a Glance
Demography Tonk is situated on National Highway No. 12 at a
distance of 100 kms from Jaipur. It is located in the North- Eastern part
of the state of Rajasthan Coordinates between 26.17°N 75.78°E The
total area of the district is 7194 sq kms. It is surrounded by 5 districts
i.e. in the north by Jaipur district, in the South by Bundi district and
Bhilwara district, in the East by Ajmer district and in the West by Sawai
Madhopur district.
According to the 2011 census Tonk district has a population of
1,421,711, This gives it a ranking of 347th in India (out of a total of
640). The district has a population density of 198 inhabitants per
square kilometre (510 /sq mi) . Its population growth rate over the
decade 2001-2011 was 17.33 %. Tonk has a sex ratio of 949 females
for every 1000 males, and a literacy rate of 62.46 %. Tonk has an
average literacy rate of 53%, lower than the national average of
59.5%: male literacy is 63%, and female literacy is 43%. In Tonk, 18%
of the population is under 6 years of age.
As per the history, Jaipur`s King Man Singh conquered Tari and Tokra
Janpad in the regime of Akbar. In 1643, twelve village of Tokra
janpad were given to Bhola Brahmin. Later, Bhola named these
twelve villages as `Tonk`.The history of Tonk is very old as it is
connected with Bairath culture and civilization. The first founder ruler
of Tonk was Nawab Mohammed Amir Khan. It was known as
Samwad Lakshya in the Mahabharata period. Following its rule as a
part of the Maurya Empire, it was merged into the Malvas. A large
part of the region was under Harsha Vardhan. During the regime of
the Rajputs>, parts of this state were under the Chavras, Solankis,
Kachvahs, Sisodiyas and Chauhan dynasty. Later, it was under the
regime of King Holkar and Sindhia. In 1806, Amir Khan conquered it
from Balvant Rao Holkar. Later, the British government gained it from
Amir Khan. It was finally returned to Amir Khan as per the treaty of
1817.
History of Tonk District
Tonk district is famous as the `Nawabi Nagari` not only in Rajasthan
but also all over India for its historical legends. Tonk has been called
Rajasthan ka Lucknow, Adab ka Gulshan, Romantic poet Akhtar
Shreerani ki Nagri, Meethe Kharboojo ka Chaman and Hindu Muslim
Ekta ka Maskan. It was a result of this secular nature that Tonk could
keep an isolated status in Rajasthan. During the regime of Nawabs all
the natives were invited to the Islamic function of Miladdunabi without
any distinction of caste, colour and creed. The district represents a
vision of communal harmony and intermingling of the races. Further
details of the district are furnished below.
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Tonk at a Glance
Economy of Tonk district
The district of Tonk is mainly agriculture based, and animal husbandry
constitutes the main occupation of the people. Tonk district is quite
backward in terms of industries. The state Government office of
District Industries is working hard to promote the small, medium-scale
and handicrafts industries in the district. The RIICO and Khadi
gramodyog offices are also working side-by-side in order to try and
provide land to industries. Six RIICO industrial areas are working in
Tonk, Newai, Malpura and Deoli Tehsil, and about 600 acres of land
have been acquired for industrial purposes. The slate stone industry is
fully developed in the district. Based on Slate stone some other
industries like quartz grinding, PCC Poles and RCC Pipes are also in
operation. Among the other industries developing in the district are
readymade garments, engineering works, tyre retrading, woollen
carpets, tomato ketchup, animal breeding and washing shop
industries. Items exported from the district include slate stone and
state tiles, cotton durrih, galicha, namda, beedi, readymade
garments and ball bearings.
Sunahari Kothi &
Ghanta Ghar, Tonk
Tourism in Tonk District
There are a number of tourist attractions offered by the district of Tonk.
Most of the places located here are of great historical worth and
have each one of the monuments and site located here has a story
to tell. The Jama masjid found here is one of the biggest and most
beautiful masjids in all of India. Other popular tourist attractions
include the Sunahari Kothi, Hathi Bhata, Rajamahal, Bisalpur, Rasiya
ke Tekri etc.
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History of Felt Making
Namdas are felted mats made from sheep fleece. The fleece is
scoured, teased and fluffed. The contemporary workshops use a
carding machine to prepare the fleece but until recently, the 'painja',
a wooden tool resembling a large bow, was used to beat and fluff
large quantities of wool. The fluffed fleece is piled on a large burlap
cloth in the required size. The fringes are created by placing separate
tufts of fleece along the edges. The mass of fleece is sprinkled with
soapy water and rolled and kneaded until the layers of wool are
felted. The namda is then soaked in a large cauldron of water and
finally laid flat to dry in the sun. Since the techniques is so primitive it
can be assumed that it is the same process as was used in ancient
times (wells, 2000). Felted products are an integral part of nomadic
life in the northern and central Asian steppes and probably the
technique was first discovered in Central Asia.
Nomadic Scythians lived in felted tents in the 5th century B.C. as the
Kazakh nomads in Central Asia, particularly in Sinkiang, still do today.
In the late 4th century B.C. Nearchus mentions that the technique of
felting was known in regions now Pakistan. Namdas were probably
introduced to Pakistan as saddle blankets by the Aryans from Central
Asia during the iron age. Although their early decorative elements are
undocumented, it can be surmised that the types of namdas still
crafted as saddle blankets and mats, as in Swat, the Hyderabad
District of Sind and Lasbela, Kharan and Mastung in Baluchistan, are
reflective of this influence. The Pazyryk finds in the Altai region of the
U.S.S.R. circa 5th to 4th centuries B.C. show that the same technique
of felting an assortment of dyed fleece into complex decorative
patterns, as employed in the Pakistani saddle blankets, was already
well developed. Some or their motifs reflected Chinese influence. This
particular technique remains traditional to Turkistan, the Subcontinent,
as well as Tabriz in Iran, near Western Central Asia. These second
decorative style of namdas, characteristics of Kashmir, employs chain
stitch embroidery and reflects Eastern Central Asian influence. Chain
stitched namdas are still common in Sinkiang. The multicoloured
woolen yarns are hooked through the namda with the 'ara-kung', the
Kashmiri tool used for chain stitching. Geometric and animal motifs
and flora scrolls of chenar leaves, grapes, irises, almond and cherry
blossoms are popular decorative elements. A document early
mentioning the namda in Eastern Central Asia was found in the
Khotan excavations in Sinkiang dating back to the 3rd century A.D. It
is mentioned that namdas were also imported into the subcontinent
by way of Leh in Kashmir during the 19th century (Hamid, 1989).
Namda in India in history
In India it is said that a person named Nubi created the first felted
woollen fabric to protect horse of Emperor of 11th Century, Akbar's
from cold. The felted piece was very intricately decorated with
craftmanshiip of Nubi, thus impressed the emperor. The craft was
given the title of Namda after the name of its creator Nubi.
The craft of Namda making is followed in very limited areas in
Kashmir, Himachal Pradesh and parts of Rajasthan. They can be
termed as woolen druggets. The craft is said to have traveled from
Iran and Turkey.
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Present Status of Namda Industry of Tonk
It is believed that the Namda clusters is n Tonk district collectively form
500 plus Artisans and workers. Office of DIC Tonk, there are about 40
registered MSME involved in Namda based craft, except few non
functional, rest are involved in active manufacturing and business.
There are primarily three kinds of units in Tonk related to Namda
Traditional Woollen Namda Producers
Woollen Felt Sheets Manufacturing
Synthetic Sheet Based Products Manufacturers
Traditional Namda manufacturers with appliqué ornamentation
Traditional Namda making consist of first making felt sheets, where all
the manual work artisans do in their own premises and carding &
hardening or milling with machines is done by the support of the
factories providing the required mechanical services.
Primarily thicker dyed felt sheets (from 0.5” to 1” in thickness) are cut
to the required basic shapes like rectangles, squares, circular or
semicircular as per the need of the product proposed to be finally
made. Thinner felt sheets are cut in to smaller shapes according to
the requirement of the ornamentation. Some units do use die cutting
device for cutting of shapes for faster production. These shapes are
placed and held with a glue or locally made adhesive paste as per
the layouts. Then these shapes are carefully appliquéd with hemming
stitch. Color of the thread is always matched with the color of the
shapes to hide the stitch. However the stitch is tightly done resulting
dented texture on edge of the appliquéd patterns. The feature adds
value & character to the appliquéd piece! Outer edge or selvedge
of the piece is finished with buttonhole stitch giving it a thick
protective edge.
The products made are floor coverings of different sizes like 5'x3',
6'x4' is the most popular, 5'x7', 6'x9' and any other odd sizes as per the
order.
Foot mats of different sizes, telephone mats, aasan (sitting mat for an
individual), wall hangings like Jokers, misha, appu, magazine holders,
letter holders, pouches, bags of different kinds are also made.mainly
to be sold in domestic market. Stuffed toys are also made.
Manufacturers do produce Namda though out the year and stock it
to sell in winters as woolen Namda is primarily used in winters in
household.
Most of these MSMEs producing Namda based items wait to
participate in Melas organized by Wool Board, retail exhibitions
organized by DIC, o/o DC Handicrafts, buyer seller meets organized
by different NGOs. Some SHG's have managed to participate in IITF
held at Pragati Maidan in Delhi. Few of the units have been able to
build professional tie ups with shops situated as far as Sikkim in North
eastern India and do supply small orders once in a while.
Four MSMEs are producing and supplying namda based products. In
accordance to requirements of export market There product largely
are stuffed toys used as accessories and Christmas decorations,
bags n pouches, cushion covers, rugs etc. The prodducts also are
made from felt molding technique. However these ranges of
products are mostly done by committed craftsmen to respective
MSMEs and are able to maintain secrecy of design. Designs are
mostly provided by the buyer and prototypes are done in close co
ordination with the buyers of the product and or export trading
companies.
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Manufacturing Process of Traditional Namda
* Natural felt sheets * Dyeing in progress * Inspection & drying * Range of colors as required * Base sheets are cut as per size of the
product * Cutting of patterns as per design * Pasting of patterns in layout * Hand stitching of applique patterns * Finished products ***
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Woollen Felt Sheet Manufacturing
Raw wool is purchased from Kekri (for coarse quality) and or Jodhpur
(for finer quality) in Rajasthan which are wool trading wholesale
markets. Shearers supply this wool to the traders through agents
(Dalals). Felt Manufacturers in Tonk buy their annual requirements of
raw wool twice in a year and stock it in the warehouse. However the
buying quantity also depends on the ware house facility available
with them. The purchase of wool is done in the month of June and
August after shearing season.
In a year they are able to use their factories for about eight to nine
months to produce the felt sheets.
The quantity of raw wool is decided in accordance to the size and
weight of the felt. The wool is selected and blended according to the
characteristics required in the felt. The order of the manufacturing
processes is as follows: Willeying, blending, teasing, scribbling,
carding, forming, hardening, milling, beaching, dyeing, tentering,
drying and finishing.
However many MSMEs having less number of different combinations
of machines are supported by manual processes and do have have
sufficient, essential and recognisable component of manual labor
and skills and without which the felt making is not possible to be
carried out successfully.
These Woolen felt sheets are regularly supplied as a base material for
industrial use as per the specifications given by the customers/buyers.
Usage is of the felt left to the traders who further convert these sheets
in utility components needed for various products.
Engineers and designers specify industrial wool felts for numerous
applications, including: vibration and shock absorption and noise
reduction; bearing strength; weather and dust sealing; wicking or fluid
transmission; lubrication, roller bearings; filters; lining and padding;
insulation; polishing (glass, stone, jewelry, fiberglass metals, plastics)
furniture rubbing, staining; sanding; lamp bases; and countless others.
Some of These MSMEs have all the equipments and machinery like
wiileying machine, opening machine, carding machine, forming
machine, milling machine as well as and hardening machine and
are able to produced felts using fully mechanized process with
manual supervision.
Since every unit having different combinations of manual and
machine skills applied to felt making, there no standard common
process followed by all. Hence each unit approaches felt making
slightly different way than the others.
Namda Felt making has been traditional handcrafted art for the
artisans families in Tonk and all of them know the process of making
namda manually. Only the one which could purchase machines and
expand their production base have industrial units.
Felt sheets produced by Tonk manufacturers are with the handmade
feature in them and on technical specification do score low hence
are utilized in the suitable industrial usage.
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Semi Manual Manufacturing Process of Felt
* Raw woolen fibers are opened * Carding in progress * forming as per the need of size & weight of felt * Formed layer is ready for
initial setting in to loose sheets * Hardening with soap water treatment * Milling * Air drying * Finishing & Packing *
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Mechanical Manufacturing Process of Felt
* Willeying and opening of raw wool * Double carding in progress * Number of carded layers are put together as per the desired size
weight, density and quality of felt sheets * Hardening with steam and vibration treatment * Milling * Air drying * Storage of sheets
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Synthetic Felt Sheets Products
As woollen prices kept growing, about ten years ago someone in Tonk
thought of idea of using polyester-viscose felt sheets to manufacture
cheaper alternative to woollen Namda foot mats, slippers as well as
other products and same appliqué feature was introduced by use of
sewing machines and over lock machines for faster production.
These viscose-polyester sheets are procured from Wapi in
Maharashtra through agents and are the leftovers from the felt sheets
used for business interiors and are available at throw away prices.
The synthetic fibre sheets with tougher features compared to woollen
namda sheets, easier on handling while making products out of it
and obvious price advantage have caught fancy of many traditional
Namda manufacturing artisans and they easily accepted the
opportunity of quicker business.
0.5 meters to 3 meters leftover sheets are cut in to required sizes.
Smaller colourful pieces are appliquéd with machine stitching as per
the design and edge finishing is dime with over locking machine to
make doormats, telephone mats, letter holders, bath mats and
slippers and converted in to cheaper fast moving products. The
wholesale price of such low quality mat starts Rs.11/- when bought in
hundreds. In retail exhibitions such mats can be bought for Rs.15-20
apiece. Depending on the design and intricacy of craftsmanship the
prices for the mats vary.
Units manufacturing these products carry on production through out
the year and stock it well to generate sales during winters. There are
hawkers who also buy these products in quantity and sell door to door
all over Rajasthan.
These products are sold through retail exhibitions organized by various
marketing agencies like DIC, Wool Board, o/o DC Handicrafts and
state agencies especially in winters. One of the unit tell us that he
iable to produce and sell 30,000 products a year.
Some of the units are able to do traditional namda production as
well as synthetic felt sheets products too, to keep the momentum
going of work though out the year.
Slowly this craft has converted 50% of the hand applique craftsmen
in to machine applique producing workers and they are nearly
detached from the traditionally inherited craft skills.
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Synthetic Felt Sheets Products- Process
* Cutting of base sheets as per the size of the product * cutting of patterns * Applique is done with zig zag machine stitch* Over lock
to finish the edges * Finishing and packing */////* Slippers patterns cutting * stitching/ overlocking * Products displayed for daily sales
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List of MSMEs and their Issues
O/o DIC. Tonk, provide the list of MSMEs in Tonk. This list included
Recently registered Self Help Groups
Small family based units
Entrepreneurs who manufacture export oriented products and supply
to exporters
Small technical processing units
Mechanized felt manufacturing factories
Unregistered units who later managed to register themselves
Some had registration as old as 1962 but had not modified their
papers
While interacting with them some have responded very positively and
shared information, some were completely against entertaining any
outsiders as for them processional secrecy was most important and
Some were not interested in any Govt based interventions as their
previous experience not been positive.
While stating the list of MSMes, spcific issues being faced by them
also have been stated.
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MSME’s of Tonk
1- Mohit Self Help Group
Sangh Pura, Jata Pada, Purani Tonk
2 - Asha Self Help Group
Contact Person-Tasleem Telephone -9261357048
Contact Person- Asha Telephone SSHG of 10 women
Fabrication Skills- Hand made felt making, Appliqué Namda, Poly
sheet products, 3D stuffed toys, Doormats, wall hangings, floor
coverings, asan, key rings and felt based toys and Christmas
decorations
SHG of 10 women Assets - 2 embroidery machines
Fabrication Skills- Hand made felt making, Appliqué Namda, Poly felt
sheet product and screen printed felt products like Doormats, wall
hangings, floor coverings, aasan, key rings and felt based toys and
Christmas decorations, Misha hangings
Issue- Absence of novel products, training for craft additional skills
suggested.
Sales during 2011- Rs. 2,50,000/Issues- Products lack quality and novelty as every one in Tonk is
making similar products. Addtional craft skills needed to expand
applicati
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MSME’s of Tonk
3 - Santosh Self Help Group
Contact Person-Santosh Telephone Assets - 1 embroidery machine
4 - Laxmi Swayan Sahayata Samuha,
SanghPura Jata Pada Purani Tonk SHG of 10 women
SHG of 10 women
Skills- Hand made felt making, Appliqué Namda, Acrylic sheet
products s- Doormats, wall hangings, floor coverings, aasan, key rings
and felt based toys and Christmas decorations
They also work as production support for some of the MSNEs in Tonk.
Issues- Their own products are similar to other groups in Tonk
5 - Mahima Swayan Sahayata Samuha,
6 - Indira Swayan Sahayata Samuha,
7 - Jagriti Swayan Sahayata Samuha,
8 - Phool Swayan Sahayata Samuha,
C/0, Sulabh International Organisation Centre, Sindhi Clolny, Tonk
SHG of 10 women Conact- Akilesh Singh
2000 sq feet training center, Production for Exports for last 5 years
Issues- Additional training to diversify craft skills needed.
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MSME’s of Tonk
9 - Ruby Namda Manufacturing
Bambor Gate, Purani Tonk
10 -Islamuddin Namda Manufacturing
Sunaronka Mohalla, Bambor Gate, Purani Tonk
Contact Person- Bundu Miyan Telephone 01432-688588/683000
Contact Person- Islamuddin Tele 01432-243359 Shahbuddin
Assets 6000 sq feet premises workshop / factory supported with
Opening Carding, hardening and milling machine, etc
Assets 6000 sq feet premises workshop/factory with felt making
machines supported by 10/12 workers
Products- Woollen Natural white Felt sheets up to 50” width used for
packing, insulation, washers and other industrial use
Production last years- 30 lakhs
Workers- 8 workers with multiple skills
Woollen Felt sheets of natural shades for industrial use
Production last years- 8000 kg of felt sheets
Issues- Constant fiber flying in the air creates breathing problems for
workers, manual milling process is laborious and extremely stressful on
arms and knees, hardening / calendering machine being open has a
risk of accidental incidents and cause injuries
Issues- health hazards due to constant inhaling of fiber particles
Catalogue and sample brochure is absent. Larger range of feltsheets
needed.
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MSME’s of Tonk
11 - Taiyab Ali Kalatmak Namda Udyog
Malpura Gate, Mahavir Chowk, Purani Tonk
12 - Abdul Gafar Namda Handicraft
Babaronka Chowk, Kelonka Neem, Purani Tonk
Contact Person- Tayab Ali Telephone
Contact Person- Abdul Gafar
Assets own premises of 1000 sq feet, carding and Milling machine
Workers- 4 family members and 2 workers
Products- Woollen Felt sheets of natural colours
Production last years- 4000 kg 25 kg a days production
Assets Owns 400 sq feet house
fabrication of synthetic felt products and applique Namda
Workers- 8 workers in the family
production last year 6 lakhs
Issues- Breathing problems in long run, looking to expand the range
of felt for additional market
Issues- Lack of space, face storage problems, marketing avenues
are not enough, wants to participate more in exhibitions to sell more,
limited range of products
Telephone 9929131186
22
MSME’s of Tonk
13 - Kiran Namda Handicrafts
Mehandwas Gate, Purani Tonk
Contact Person- Abdul Wahid
14 - Jain Handicrafts
Industrial Area, Tonk
6 family members work together supported with 5 more workers
Stitched synthetic products and Namda with appliqués, Slippers, foot
mats, handmade Namda
Production last years- 5000 pieces
Marketing through state exhibitions.
Issues - Products are similar to every producer around. Need more
marketing avenues
Contact Person- Sushilkumar Jain
Assets two factories
Skills- Carding, hardening, milling, dyeing etc, appliqués, 3D products
as per buyers needs, all the skills of Namda and felt making
Production last years- Domestic 35 lakh + Exports 15 lakh
Issues- Looking to increase network of buyers
Training for the craftswomen in more variety of techniques and skills.
Showroom design is needed. Website needed.
23
MSME’s of Tonk
15 - Anis Abdul Majid Kalatmak Namda
Mohalla Chudigaran, Badwali Haveli ke andar Tonk
16 - Mohammad Saeed Namda Handicrafts
babronka Chowk, Purani Tonk
Contact Person- Anis
Contact Person- Mohammad Saeed
Assets own house and milling workshop
Telephone 01432-246306 / 9252720108
Assets Common area, few rooms
Workers- 4 family works together
Products- Four coverings, doormats and cheaper quality of products
Ithey are producing cheapest variety of asans used for distribution as
gift in memory of dead.
Issues -Lack of variety and upgradation of craft skills
Milling job work, Products- Four coverings, doormats and Felt making
for own purpose and job work. Synthetic felt appliqué products
Workers- 5 family members
Issues- Milling work is carried out in a small crammed area, space
management difficulties, absence of storage racks, proper drainage
solution required, expansion of business is not feasible as storage
capacity due to lack of space is poor.
24
MSME’s of Tonk
17 - Bundu Kalatmak Namda
Babronka Chowk, Purani Tonk
18 - Imamuddin Design Namda Industries
Lakironki Gali, babronka Chowk, Purani Tonk
Contact Person- Bundu Abbas
4 family members make namdas & synthetic felt sheet based
products and sell through the exhibitions
Shoes and Slippers,, jokers, wall hangings
Contact Person- Imamuddin
Makes Smaller Namda appliqué products
Last year production of 2 lakhs
Issues - Lack of novelty in the products, color scheme are not
appealing,
Issues- Though quality of craftsmanship is good, lack of novelty in the
products and larger range of colors need to be introduced
25
MSME’s of Tonk
19 - Vikash Namda Handicrafts
Lakironki Gali, babronka Chowk, Purani Tonk
20 - Mohammad Sharif Namda Handicrafts
Panchkuiyan Darwaza, Opp Income Tax Dept, Tonk
Contact Person- Mohammad Saeed
Contact Person- Mohammad Sharif
Self made felt used for making products
Bathroom slippers, jokers, self design namda, appliqués, misha
Selling through exhibitions and melas
Produced 1.5 lakh last year
Issues- Sameness of products, novelty is needed
Synthetic felt products producing group
7 family members with 8 more workers help the production
Eight months in a year is production and 4 months to sell the products
through exhibitions, Two sewing machines and 1 over lock machine.
30 thousand pieces are produced in a year
Annual turnover 6 lakhs
Issues- Placement of motifs on the products is randomly done, hence
variations occur, workman ship and stitching skills need improvement.
Newer ideas of product and ornamentation needed.
26
MSME’s of Tonk
21- Alia Handicrafts
Panchkuiyan Darwaza, Malpura Gate, Tonk
22 - Nizamuddin Namda Handicrafts
Bharat Namda Kala Kendra, SanghPura, Mehndwas Gate Tonk
Contact Person- Mohammad Tahir
Contact Person- Nizamudin
Having their own showroom in the market, products are retailed
throughout the year.
Namda making group, make their own Namda, has dyeing
hardening milling machines Also produce Synthetic slippers and sell
thru exhibitions Dyeing job work for other needs.
Issue- Dyeing color range is limited. Needs training on color
matching to expand the range of shades.
Issues -The one and only MSME having own showroom in the heart of
Purani Tonk. Needs better and attractive display at the shop along
with the novelty in the products. Overall quality of workmanship is
better in comparison with others.
27
MSME’s of Tonk
23 - Mahavir Design Namda Art
Chhota Takhta, Gali Teliyan, Tonk
Contact Person- Mahavir Prasad Nama
24 - Nadafi Design Namda Handicrafts
Miyanka Chowk , Purani Tonk
Make products out off outsourced namda - appliqués, slippers and
shoes, bags, pouches, hand painted Namda products
3family members and 4/5 additional workers involved in production
Selling through exhibitions and melas
Annual production of 3 lakhs
Issues- Good workmanship, inputs on colors needed, has done lot of
experimental work, needs variety of applications to realize in to better
products.
Contact Person- Mohammad Sharif
2 family members and 15 workers involved in production
Foot mats, slippers, Woollen Namda with appliqué
Excellent craft skills and colour sensibility
4 lakhs annual production
Issues- Though Good workmanship, but lacks of newer ideas,
repetition of ideas make product look the same.
28
MSME’s of Tonk
25 - Eslam Nudafi Handicrafts
Babaronka Chowk , Purani Tonk
Contact Person- Eslam Nudafi
26 - Modern Namda Factory
Address Malpura Gate, Purani Tonk
Contact Person- Mohammad Kalam
Making jokers, woollen felt products, foot mat, wall hangings,
telephone mats, aasan etc.
Selling through DIC melas Last year Production 1.5 lakh
Industrial felt making fully mechanized factory.
20 workers in the factory at any given time
Last year Production 25000 kg
Issue - Lacks novelty, workmanship is good.
Can produce felt sheets with thickness of 1mm to 25 mm
2 mm cotton felts for stamp pads and shoulder pads in the jackets
Issue- Wishes to expand business with additional factory as lot of
space available for additional machinery in case of novel products
or range
29
MSME’s of Tonk
27 - Mahak Namda Handicraft
Near Jama Masjid, Purani Tonk
Contact Person- Anand Nama
28 - Anuraj Handicrafts
Plot No.2/135, Rajasthan Housing Board colony, Tonk
Five Family members are involved in production.
Make patchwork and inlay technique namda wall hangings with
portraits and animal forms
Contact Person- Raj Tiwari
Owns a factory where 30 women with hand applique and craftskills sit
supported by 3 cutting pasting crafts women.
Supplying applique namda products to exporters specifications
Good quality of craftsmanship and usage of colors and patterns
Issues- This unit has started recently, looking to market patchwork
and inlay technique which is different compared to other
producers. So far only samples made business has not stsrted yet
Issues - Looking to develop website as well as e commerce site for
promotion of products.
30
MSME’s of Tonk
29 - A1 Namda Manufacturers
Malpura Gate Purani Tonk
Contact Person- Abdul Hafiz
30 - Cotton Woollen Industries
Industrial Area, Tonk
Export oriented unit making 3D products as per buyers requirements
on order, felt making is done in own factory
20 workers at factory and 25 outsourced 20 men 25 women
Last year production 12 Lakhs
Issues- As export production is managed within six months it is
difficult to keep workers occupied through out the year and it is
difficult to source alternative after workers leaves the job
Contact Person- Mohmmd Latif
Telephone
Fully Mechanized Felt production unit
31 - Super Industries
H-56, Industrial Area, Tonk
Contact Person- Mohammad Salim
Fully Mechanized Felt Production unit
Can not manage even dyeing, dyeing skills upgradation needed
Face difficulties in creating patterns for 3D objects, training
required
31
Collective Core Issues
Core issues with MSMEs units which are common to all and
addressing these shall help the cluster in totality.
32
Issues - Existing Products Range
Creating Novelty through Design
Issues- On this page the photographs of products are from about 15
MSMEs and similarity of designs and application is evident in the
range.
Traditional look of the Namda from Tonk continues to suffer from
sameness for many years and lack of novelty in terms of product
range. colors, application of craft techniques and quality.
Recommendation of Training workshop on Product Development Most of the MSMEs and its teams of craftspeople will require
guidance on product innovation, use of colors, up gradation of craft
skills, innovative craft skills, dyeing skills up-gradation etc.
33
Issues: Quality of Felt production
Physical feature enhancement
Issues- Felt sheet manufacturing with machines seems to fulfil the
needs and suffice the needs of industrial usage as it is purely utilized
for functional applications and do not have aesthetic value or does
not come directly in contact with human. But the same felt or the
one which is handmade, has its own structural features at a question.
Main complain about Namda is that it keeps shedding its fibers
throughout its use in domestic interiors. It has poor rubbing strength
compared to carpets and durries, hence often not preferred for
domestic use. It also get infected with moths in moist conditions and
does require regular sunlight exposure ensure longer life.
Recommendations on quality felt and research on better
construction- There is need to carry out research to control fiber
shedding feature of handmade as well as machine made felt. The
compression method and the soap solution used are the key factors
involved and will need a research for possible modifications.
A method of manufacturing or a treatment of Namda with better fiber
construction may enhance its utility in domestic interiors for Indian
markets.
Use of best quality felt sheets is also important. Value addition
achieved by use of greater quality felt sheets will be much more than
the cost increase of raw material.
However Namda being available at much low price compared to
other woolen woven products like durries s and carpets and shawls,
many household prefer it to be used specially in winters, as it serves
purpose and comes cheap.
Most of the Namda products made for domestic market have a
base sheets of namda of a coarser quality and that is the one which
primarily sheds its fibers. Finer quality of felt sheets only used for
applique part of ornamentation.
34
Issues: Expanding Applications & Usage of Felts - Product development of new materials
Issue- Felt making MSMes have been producing woollen felt sheets
for a large variety of usage as per the technical specifications
provided by their buyers primarily for domestic market all over India.
However the end use of the felts is nor in control of the felt producers
neither they are aware of it .
Explore the possibility of using felts along with construction materials to
create insulation feature in them blending it with concrete etc
Natural Dyed range of felts and Namdas
Recommendations of developing newer fabrics- Newer and finer
variety of felt fabrics need to be developed with blends of yarns,
fabrics and newer applications.
Apparel as well as home fashion industry has definitely huge potential
for such a novelty of fabrics.
35
Issues- Workers Unavailability for Two Months
Utilization of the time for new Design sampling
Issue - Amongst the prominent businesses in Tonk Beedi
manufacturing is one the prominent one. Interestingly in the months
of second half of April, entire May and fist half of June there is a
sudden requirement of large numbers of workers for beedi
manufacturers. Tendu leaf are tender in these months are required to
be taken off from tress dried ad collected from the nearby jungles.
This activity is important as tendu leaf drawn in this period is only
useful for desired quality of beedies hence workers are given very
attractive money to carry out this seasonal job. Workers are able to
earn twice or more during this period. Hence as much as 80% of the
work force from Namda sector is unavailable over the period of
about two months.
Some of the Felt making factories to close down their production as
the owner themselves are involved in a contract of executing
collection of tendu leaves for beedi manufactures. They are able to
do business of as much as 6o lakhs in two months so the
opportunity of making quick assured money is never lost.
Recommendations of utilizing this time for product development
With small dedicated team of artisans this time can be ustilised for
newer developments of product and rest of the time can be utilised
for product and promotion through out the year.
36
Issues: Health Hazards to Workers
Simple Solutions as Health Safety Devices
Issue - At Tonk, ‘Kacchi Gulavat’ manual hardening process of felt
from carded wool is the most strenuous and involves extreme
physical labor. Workers do complain of long term damage to knees
and arms.
Although power operated hardening devices are used by some of
the units, but other can not invest in it.
Recommendation for equipment or mechanical device design
Simple manually operated inexpensive mechanical device can be
developed (may be with bamboo) to speed up the process and
save manual extreme labor.
Worker with such a device will be able to give more productive output
without putting their physical health at risk.
Issue - While willeying, opening and carding of wool small fiber
particles keep flying all over the premise, unwanted inhaling of
woollen dust can not be avoided even after covering mouth and
nose with a cloth. Often the workers are found affected with
respiratory deceases having risk of TB in long run. ( Dr. Narendra Vijay,
TB Hospital Tonk)
Recommendation foe equipment design - Suitably developed
protective masks and or preventive devices to contain and ensure
stoppage of dust flying around need to be introduced here.
37
Issues: Human Safety at Work
Modification of Tools & Equipments
Issue - Bales of Carded wool collected
on a stick and kept on the floor before
taken for hardening. Six of such bales
are opened and layers together on the
hardening / compressing table.
Recommendation on infrastructureInstead of keeping the bales on the
floor, a suspension stand for bales is
advisable to keep the opening
feasability of the layers intact.
Issue- Felt sheets are stored directly on
the ground without any cover or platform
and left unprotected from dust &
moisture.
Recommendation infrastructure Protective measures like perpetual use of
plastic bags advisable to protect it from
dirt, dust, water & moisture.
Issue - Raw wool is manually fed to the rollers of opener device,
carding device and hardened felt to the rollers of milling device or
machines. While hand feeding the material there is always a chance
of hand getting stuck between the rollers, there are no hand guards
attached to the device. Recently son of Bundhumiyan of Ruby
Namda had gone through couple of surgeries due to multiple
fractures as his hand got stuck while working on milling machine.
Recommendation on Safety device- Installation of hand guards is a
must for all the machines of these kind.
38
Issues: Ergonomics & Workstation
Assembly Line Production
issue - Height of the dye cutting
machine is ergonomically incorrect.
Workers sits on the floor and does his
work and more time is spent on
operation as the posture does not
support efficiency.
Recommendation for Productivity
and Ergonomics- The dye cutting
machine needs to be raised at a table
height to carry out operations easily
and productively.
Issue - Most of the craft people work squatting / while seated on
the floor, and is tiring and cumbersome with cut pieces spread
all around.
The space management around every craftsman for efficient
and faster production is neglected.
Issue- While operating machines of milling where rollers are fed with
sheet material, the unsafe sitting postures and method is incorrect.
Recommendation of workstation design - Need to create
suitable assembly line production planning and suitable
workstations needs to be created.
Recommendation on Safety and Ergonomics - introduce suitable
safer seat to increase efficiency
39
Issues- Poor Infrastructure and Absence of CFC
Private Enterprise for CFC
Issue - Air Drying of felt sheets after beaching, washing and dyeing
is done on the roof, on open ground, walls and hanging devices.
On the floor and wall in it tends to catch dust and gets dirty. Also in
rainy season drying becomes difficult.
Recommendation of Common Facility Center with hot chambers
dying facility- Separate controlled drying facility for the whole
Namda cluster will look after all MSMEs needs and speedy drying
service can increase productivity..
40
Issues: Under Explored Craft Techniques
Product Diversification and Design
3 Dimensional molding
Block printed patterns and Creen Printed patterns
Issue - Felt Industry and Namda craft at Tonk primarily limited
itself making felt sheets of a specific densities and weights and
namda based products with applique as a main feature.
The units producing products for export requirements have
diversified in to many technique with the inputs of buyers and
continue to explore further. However these diversifications have
not trickled down to domestic market and domestic market left
with same old feature of namda craft for many years.
Recommendations reintroduction and application of
potential felt craft techniques and GI registration - This
certainly will add spark to not so evolved craft of Namda at Tonk
and an array of product directions can be created.
Embroideries
Patterning in the Milling
Efforts for GI registration of this craft of Tonk will also give it a
required status and respectability on national front.
41
Issues: Unchanged Imagery and Aesthetic
Visual Design and Vocabulary development
Issue - While doing appliques be it with machine or with hand, the
placements of shapes as per the desired layout is not done well.
Shapes often are not placed in its right position and orientation. Most
of the designs produced here being symmetrical or mirror imaged
the flaws are obviously visible.
Issue - wall decoration pieces like Mischa and Jokers are being
produced for last 30 years in Tonk. Many Olympics have passed by
but awareness of Tonk craftsmen has been frozen in time many years
ago. These cliche motifs are not anymore liked by new generation.
Although, somehow even today these pieces seem to sell.
Recommendations of Introduction of contemporary indian
iconography as a design direction- Newer age Icons need to be
introduced in Tonk to connect it to the real contemporary world and
markets in India.
Quality of workmanship in stitching the pieces in place too is poor.
In the effort of producing maximum in a day the quality seems to be
an unimportant issue.
Cliched designs of these products have been around ior very long
and there is a crying need for novelty. This desire is expressed by most
of the MSMEs involved in synthetic felt products.
Recommendation of production aid kit - Product development and
innovation workshops with skills up gradation training programs
suggested. Setting up of quality parameters and ‘templates and
guides kit for effective quality production’ can be developed.
42
Issues- Visual Merchandising and Display
Showroom Design
Bharat Namda Udyog in Sangh Pura Tonk is the sole shop where
Namda products are retailed. Most of the units are like cottage
industry and their homes are often workshops during working hours
hence proper display of products is completely absent.
Often finished products are stuffed in a storage, display of products
in not given imporatnce by most msmes.
43
Issues- Packaging and Trasportation
Issue- Packaging nad packing of felt sheets
and export needs are done according to
specification of the buyers. Hoe ever for
synthetic sheets based products are not
packed well for transportation. Local
transportation of packed products is done on
open carts and the bundles are uncovered
and gather dust.
Recommendations on packing - Proper
packing of bundles with suitable covers with
recycled plastic is advisable.
44
Issues- National Level Absence of Namda Craft
Collective Brand building
Namda as a handicraft does not have a presence on national level
platform and it is time some work towards that needs to be done.
Following are the areas additional attention can be gicen in seaprate
effort besides MSMEs Design Clinic Scheme
Al these mentioned efforts must be done collectively with the help of
Govt agencies and bodies , NGOs and developmental organizations
to build Namda as a brand which stands for quality standards and
finest of creative craftsmanship,
Formulation of Namda and Felt collective- All the MSME must form
a consortium of craft entrepreneurs and collectively work towards the
development of the this industry.
GI Registration- GI registration of this craft will ensure and increase
respectability of the craftsmen and their traditional craft. However any
agency like RUDA will have to make a case for this craft and put in
suitable efforts in this direction.
Wool Mark Certification- Wool Mark brand of woollen and blended
products have a a quality standards and widely respected allover the
world. Few of the MSMEs must improve on the quality and try for Wool
Mark Certification for wider marketability.
Promotional Website- At the moment Namda has zero presence on
internet besides mention in RUDAs website and few photographs.
It definitely require information on craft, history, process, artisans and
felt manufactures etc. A collective website will be best suited.
Participation for State and National Awards- Craftsmen of Namda
Industry must come forwards and participate in the Award process
with best of their creative craftsmanship and quality products and
gain recognition for their traditional skills and craftmanship.
45
Issues- Present Market
Felt sheet producers
Namda Producers
Synthetic Sheet based
Products maufactureres
Trading Agents
Overseas Buyers
Direct Exports
Hawkers Selling
Door to door
Retail Shops
Supply to Export
Trading Companies
Participation in State &
National Marketing events
Retail Chain
Stores
Traders of Felt Components
for industrial Use
End User/ Customer
46
Some more issuesCataloguing of product ideas or keeping records of past work
as a reference is completely absent with most of the MSMEs.
Export oriented units have been able to keep folders containing
photographs pf product made in past.
Lack of work spaces - All the smaller MSMEs and SHG do face
the problems of work space as most work in their domestic
environment. Dyeing, Drying, Milling and storage dacilities can
be provided at reasonable prices if Common Facility Center is
set up.
Running Capital - There are limitations of capacity to invest in
production through out the year and wait for successful sales
during the exhibitions for most small units. Hence growth in the
business does not become reality for many.
Although there are loans available (up to Five Lakhs) for the SHG
Lack of business ides is preventing them to utilize the facility.
47
Conclusions
48
Existing Inter Cluster Professional Relationship and Market Linkages
Raw wool suppliers
and agents
from Kekri and or
Jodhpur
Need based supply
as a raw material
to routine customers
for industrial usage
all over India
Sell their products through Govt
organized periodic exhibitions
in Rajssthan and Delhi IITF
MSME’s of SHGs
of Craftswomen
Industrial
and Namda
Felt Sheets
Manufacturers
Local Sales
Govt Supported
Exhibitions
Agents and
Hawkers
in Rajasthan
Synthetic Felt
Wastage supply
agents and
dealers from Wapi
Technical
Processing
Dyeing, Milling
Hardening
Service Providers
Tonk
Namda
Cluster
Fabricators
of Synthetic
Felt Products and
Namda Products
Synthetic
Felt Products
Manufactureres
Direct exports
& supply to
exporters and
retail exhibitions in
Rajasthan and Delhi
Export
Oriented
Namda Products
Manufacturers
Namda
products
manufacturers
Local Sales
Govt Supported
Exhibitions
and Agents
in Rajasthan
Local Sales,
Govt supported Exhibitions,
Agents and Hawkers in Rajasthan
49
Govt Dev
Agencies
NGOs
MSME’s
ofSHGs
SHGs
MSME’s of
Craftswomen
ofofCraftswomen
Technical
Processing
Dyeing, Milling
Hardening
Service Providers
Industrial
and Namda
Felt Sheets
Manufacturers
Fabricators
of Synthetic
Felt Products and
Namda Products
Hawkers
Agents
MSME’s
Design Clinic
Scheme can impact
Quality, Novelty, Variety, Utility,
Sustainability, Marketability
Productivity, Profitability
and Overall Growth
of the Cluster
Synthetic
Felt Products
Manufactureres
Export
Oriented
Namda Products
Manufacturers
Namda
products
manufacturers
Loans and
Schemes
50
Proposed Market Expansion after Interventions
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51
Product Range - Existing and Proposed
Existing product range with Namda cluster for domestic market
Namda Rugs- 9’x12’, 6’X9’, 4’x6’, 3’x5’,
Round different sizes
Door Mats- of variety of sizes
Telephone MatsWall hangings like Jokers & Mischa
Magazine Holders
Letter pouches or holders
Slippers
Suggested product range for domestic market with finest quality of
wool and newer idea and applications to bring in a surprises
Finer Felt fabrics for apparels & Novel usage
Hats and capes
Jackets and Capes with finer wool
Stoles and scarves with finest wool
Winter yoga mats Aasan
Namda Rugs- of variety of shapes and sizes
Door Mats- of variety of shapes and sizes
Telephone mats of different shapes
Magazine Holders
Letter pouches or holders Slippers Shoes
and boots for winter Shoe racks and holders
Travel Rugs Picnic Rugs
Table mats Tea Cozy
Variety of Bags and Pouches Clutches
Stuffed Toys Fun products
Lamps shades Space dividers
Wall decorations
Window Blinds
52
Scope of Interventions at a Glance
Common Facility Center
Drudgery Reducing Device Design
Common facility center addressing the needs
of heating chambers and faster drying devices,
milling, dyeing and warehousing at fair prices
Development of manually operated
inexpensive mechanical milling device
Business Promotion
Workshop on display methods and visual merchandising
Operational Quality Enhancement
Felt Sheet Manufacturing Process
Design & Product Development
Development of novelty blends
and fabrics materials with felt
Training Workshops
Skills up gradation workshops pattern
making for stuffed toys and 3D objects
Namda & Synthetic Sheets
Craft Products Mfg Process
Process Improvement Research
Research on prevention of fiber shedding of felts
& suitable modifications of the production process
Packing and Packaging
Visual
Merchandising
Marketing
Common Post Production Stages
Design & Diversification of Product Development
Product diversification workshops for expansion in to new and
unexplored markets with multiple underutilized craft techniques
Workstation Design
GI Registration of Namda of Tonk
Design of workstations addressing
ergonomical & productivity concerns
GI registration of Namda of Tonk will help it
re-establish respectability on national front
Transportation
Workshop on inexpensive and environment
friendly packing and packaging methods
Packing
Documentation
Costing & Pricing
Natural Dyeing
Training Workshops
Finishing
Placing
Cutting
Dyeing
Storing
Drying
Milling
Hardening
Carding
Opening
Raw Material
Design of carded bales hanging device
Eco Products Development
Appliqueing
Training Worshop
Skills up gradation workshops on
quality dyeing and shade matching
Packaging
Design and development of patterns placing
tool kit to help improve layouts aesthetically
Design of fiber particle prevention breathing masks &
hand protective guards on opening & milling machines
Efficiency Enhancement
Awareness workshop on dirt, dust,
water & moisture protective methods
Quality Control Aid
Health Care & Safety Equipments Design
Business Promotion
Awareness workshop on methods of
business through e commerce sites
53
SWOT Analysis
Strength
Weaknesses
·
·
·
·
·
·
·
·
·
Namda craft being a cottage industry, infrastructure &
investments are minimal.
Felt making industry in Tonk is well established and supports
Namda craftsmen very well in terms of raw material and
technical processing.
Traditional Craft many centuries old heritage.
Inexpensive woollen products in comparison to other woollen
items.
Secular craft- Many communities involved in this craft and
trade Muslims, Jains, Brahmins
70% of the workforce is of women in Namda craft and in felt
making women are 10%
Raw material is available at low cost.
Besides popular traditional appliqué technique, many
additional techniques can be combined with the craft.
·
·
·
·
·
·
·
Woollen felts Namda sheds its fibres from its top surface
hence not preferred by many.
In moist conditions Namda gets infected with moths and
needs periodic sunlight exposure
The traditional Namda designs have not changed for very
long time. Artisans are still making them.
The units do not have marketing arrangement for direct sale
of goods; they only have to wait for state organised retail
exhibitions / melas during winters.
Lack of awareness of Govt. Support policies, loans etc.
Quality of workmanship is an issue with the artisans who work in
the domestic market
Export oriented units manage to maintain secrecy of newer
designs and local artisans do not get to see to get lead from.
Limited product range and applications of the craft.
54
Opportunity
·
·
·
·
·
·
·
·
·
·
·
With the proposed contemporary product range and finer
quality, it has a great potential to expand its market base.
Products with innovative value addition and novelty will fetch a
better price.
Un-explored techniques have a huge potential in bringing
positive change in the craft.
Export market further can be explored and demands can be
met.
Easy availability of raw material.
Provision of loan and profitable policies for small units.
SHG model for crafts women has a great potential.
Developing Common Facility Centre for faster and cleaner
drying services, raw material storage, milling and dyeing
needs will look after many small units' requirements and will
help them expand their business.
Training workshops and interactive sessions will help increase
awareness on importance of quality of craftsmanship.
GI registration can re-establish this traditional crafts its
respectability on national front.
Any additional business coming Tonk Namda Cluster way
surely will benefit both the industries, be it felt producing
factories or the Namda craftsmen's groups.
Threats
• Due to poor quality of craftsmanship chances of high
rejections in export based production.
• Synthetic felt based product manufacturing has reduced the
number of artisans dedicated to Namda craft.
• Young generation not interested in taking this craft as their
profession.
• Poor quality & fibre shedding feature is the deterrent in
popularising the carft for usage in domestic interiors.
• Because of less education crafts persons will not be able to
follow the proper process of costing and to deal with a buyer.
• Artisans are not able to communicate to buyers about their
craft.
• Lack of novelty and absence of innovative products is the
main hurdle to increase and attract buyers /customer base.
55
56
Series of Design Awareness Workshops
Objective of Design Clinic Workshop is to create a platform
where participants will be able to generate holistic perspective
of their scenario with the help of design expert’s guidance.
Experts will be helping the participants in identifying opportunity
area in their respective units and cluster with the help of
interactive design study insights. The experts also will help in
providing on the spot design solutions to the problems taken up
by th participants from their respective backgrounds of products,
processes, communication and design strategy.
The major activities of design Clinic workshop would be....
* Discussion of opportunity areas identified from Interactive
design research
*Design Presentations by guest speakers
*Provide remedies to design problems taken up by participants
Series of 4 Design Awareness Interactive Workshops were held
from 24th to 27thJuly 2012 in Tonk and 5th workshop in Jaipur.
Design Clinic Scheme of MSME: Design Awareness Workshops
Conducted by RUDA Jaipur
Anchored by Chandrashekhar Bheda
57
Dastak Design dwara Namda aur Felt Udyaog ke Sarwangeen Vikas ki Pehal
(Supported by Ministry of MSME, Govt of India, NID & RUDA Jaipur)
Worksop Schedules- Date- 24th July 2012, Tonk, 8 am onwards
Felt Manufactures and technical service providers
Time
8.00 AM
9.00 AM
9.30 AM
10.00 AM
10.30 AM
11.00 AM
11.30 A M
12.00 AM
1.00 PM
Activity
Speaker
Registration
--------Introduction of participants and panel of speakers, RUDA
Introduction to Design Clinic Scheme
Sharing of Key findings from the NAS Report relevant & common
to the of participant MSMes present
Tea Break
Participatory discussion by all on the needs identified and shared
in previous session
Presentation by Guest speaker
Short terms remedial solutions to the needs identified with the live
examples and products from MSMEs
Lunch
Mr. Ashok Iyyer, GM RUDA, GM DIC
Mr. Shakyawar
Chandrashekhar Bheda/ Mr. Shakyawar
58
Chandrashekhar Bheda along with Mr. Ashok Iyer, GM, RUDA, Mr. Omkarmal, GM DIC Tonk & Dr. D B Shakyawar Principal Scientist, CSWRI
59
Dr. D B Shakyawar, during his technical session
60
61
62
After detailed presentation by Chandrashekhar Bheda on findings of
NAS report the participants representatives of various MSMEs shared
their concerns on not being aware of various marketing events
possibly can be attended or participated by them with their Namda
product for retail sales.
O/o GM DIC extended their support in this regard on regular basis
and promised to create a calendar of marketing events all over India
for handicrafts products under various state and Central Govt
schemes.
Drying chambers or dryers Service enterprise can be very helpful for
industry and such services can be professionally available and be
encouraged.
Design of a device or movable stand for a bale of a carded wool
was thought and Chandrashekhar promised to share a deign drawing
of such a stand in following workshops,
Dr. DB Shakyawar, presented his thoughts on possible technical upgradation and discussed possibility of relevant technical support by
CSWRI at Avikanagar and urged Namda and Felt industry of Tonk to
take assistance and guidance of the institute as and whenever
required.
He also insisted on practising scouring methods to clean the wool
effectively and all other processes in its scientific methods to achieve
and improve quality of felt.
Chandrashekhar shared his ideas to improve preventing methods to
stop fibers from breathing during Willeying and opening of raw wool.
The output passage/area of the machine can be covered with a
large bag to prevent fibre flying all over the place and it can be
easily collected for hardening process.
Covering of mouth with suitably designed or readily available masks
will ensure breathing of clean air and will stop it from inhaling the
fibre.
63
Time
Activity
Speaker
8.00 AM
Registration
9.00 AM
Introduction of participants and panel of speakers,
Mr. SI Khan, Project Manager, RUDA, GM DIC
9.30 AM
10.00 AM
Sharing of Key findings from the NAS Report relevant &
common to the of participant MSMes present
---------
10.30 AM
Tea Break
11.00 AM
Participatory discussion by all on the needs identified and
shared in previous session
11.30 AM
Presentation by Guest Speaker
Mr. Shakyawar
12.00 AM
Short terms remedial solutions to the needs identified with
the live examples and products from MSMEs
1.00 PM
Lunch
2.00 PM Onwards
Interaction with individual MSMEs on the needs identified
And possible solutions or visit to MSME if any
64
Chandrashekhar Bheda sharing NAS report with MSME participants
65
66
Team of experts at Islamuddin Namda factory discussing unsafe methods & practices of felt maufacturing & processes
67
During visits to Ruby Namda and Islamuddin Namda factories possible remedies to safety and operational aspects were discussed.
68
69
Inputs on quality production at Mfg units of Citizen Namda and Aliya Handicrafts
70
After sharing NAS report by Chandrashekhar Bheda, technical expert’s
session by Mr. Shakyawar supported by Mr. MS Raja, Junior Scientist,
CSWRI, following technical issues and its remedial solutions were
discussed.
Mothproofing methods of felt - there are effective moth proofing
agents which can be mixed with dye bath and such dyed wool can
be protected from moth attacks for much longer periods and is long
lasting moth preventive solution.
Units of Citizen Namda and Alia Handicrafts were also visited, and
their quality and design of their existing product range was discussed
and each product was given design motif placement and colour
scheme related feedback. Motif cutting related quality isues also
discussed in detail.
Protective sprays can be applied to prevent shedding of surface fibres
of the felt cloth however cheaper alternatives must be found to keep
the cost factor in the context of felt.
Dyeing of felts will have to be done with winch dyeing machine when
slightly larger quantities of felts sheets can be dyed. Checking or
testing of ph level in the fibre before dyeing is also needed to be
practised.
Chandrashekhar Bheda insisted on creating new manually operated
hardening device to speed up the process of Kacchi gulvat and save
workers of torturous labour. It was also stressed upon to spare
displacement of hardening labourers, such device will have to be
manually operated. Safety guards need to be developed to protect
hand from getting stuck in rollers.
From the raw wool process of removal dead fibre need to be
practised authentically to ensure better quality of felt production.
Along with technical experts visit to Ruby Namda Factory and
Islamaudin Namda Factory was done to witness the process of
willeying, carding, hardening and milling.
71
Self Help Groups
Time
8.00 AM
Activity
Registration
Speaker
9.00 AM
Mr. SI Khan, Project Manager, RUDA, GM DIC
9.30 AM
10.00 AM
Sharing of Key findings from the NAS Report relevant
& common to the of participant MSMes present
---------
10.30 AM
Tea Break
11.00 AM
Participatory discussion by all on the needs identified
and shared in previous session
Chandrashekhar Bheda/ Mr. Shyam Gurjar
11.30 AM
Mr. Shyam Gurjar Prof Vanasthali Vidtapeeth
12.00 AM
Short terms remedial solutions to the needs identified
with the live examples and products from MSMEs
Chandrashekhar Bheda/ Mr. Shyam Gurjar
1.00 PM
Lunch
2.00 PM Onwards
Interaction with individual MSMEs on the needs identified
and possible solutions or visit to MSME if any
Chandrashekhar Bheda/Mr.Shyam Gurjar
72
73
Prof. Shyam Gurjar of Banasthali Institute of Design
74
75
At the factory of Mohammad Syed Namda Hadicrafts space management issue was discussed in details
76
Interaction on lesser known craft techniques at Bharat Namda Kala Kendra and Mohit SHG Group of women artisans
77
78
After sharing the NAS survey report the interaction was mainly
focussed on phase 3 potential participation of SHG's whose
representative were the participants of the day's workshop.
Prof. Shyam Gurjar of Banasthali Vidyapith with his presentation shared
the educational activities and training workshops frequently held by
Vidyapith in their premises which is 30 kms away from Tonk.
Ms. Shagufta Khan associated with Integrated Women and Child
Development Services, who has been motivating and coordinating
women to form SHG reinterpreted some of the findings of NAS report
to SHG's representative participants.
Banasthali Vidyapith was suggested to create small skills training
resident workshops for artisan women of Tonk and Prof. Gurjar
committed himself to take the matter ahead and discuss the
possibilities of such modules with management authorities of
Banasthali Vidyapith.
After lunch sessions Along with Prof Shyam Gurjar Chandrashekhar
visited Mohit SHG and scanned their product range and offered inputs
on quality, layouts for doormats and range of footwear being
produced by them.
At Mohammad Syed Namda Hadicrafts space management issue
was discussed thoroughly, however with rather small premises
available to them was being used very efficiently and was
appreciated very well by experts.
Visit to Bharat Namda was to explore seamless namda making
practised by them however they were able to share few very old
samples and shown desire to participate in reviving the forgotten craft
in phase three of DCS.
Visit to Saurabh Exports was mainly to discuss and scan the process
cutting felt sheet patterns with die cutting machine and its
ergonomical concerns of operating machines.
He also promised to looks at possibilities of women artisans'
participation as skill support in their classroom assignments of students
whenever they have suitable assignments scheduled in near future at
Banasthali Vidyapith. Tonk Namda Cluster being the closest to
Banasthali Vidyapith this arrangement may work effectively as both
sides will benefit from it.
Representatives of women SHG also insisted that they will surely need
guidance to create their own felt products which can be promoted
through participation in retail marketing events frequently organised
by Rural Non Farm Development Agency Jaipur and various state
handicraft promotional agencies as well as O/o DC Handicrafts and
trades fairs periodically held in Delhi and elsewhere.
79
th
Worksop Schedules- Date- 27 July 2012, Tonk, 8 am onwards
Handicraft Namda Producers, synthetic sheet product makers and Export oriented product manufacturers
Time
Activity
Speaker
8.00 AM
Registration
9.00 AM
Mr. Ashok Iyyer, Project Manager, RUDA
9.30 AM
Miss. Bindoo Ranjan
10.00 AM
Sharing of Key findings from the NAS Report relevant
& common to the of participant MSMes present
---------
10.30 AM
Tea Break
11.00 AM
Participatory discussion by all on the needs identified
and shared in previous session
1130 AM
Mr Shyam Gurjar
12.00 AM
Short terms remedial solutions to the needs identified
with the live examples and products from MSMEs
1.00 PM
Chandrashekhar Bheda Mr.Gurjar
Miss. Bindoo Ranjan
Lunch
80
Mrs. Bindoo Ranjan of NID MSME Design Clinic Scheme explaining the scheme in details in her presentation to the participants of the workshop
81
82
83
Flying dust prevention and collection chamber made of thick Polyethylene sheet and masked worker. The Chamber will ensure collection
of all the dust and opened fibers in restricted area and wastage will be minimized it will also ensure the minimisation of risk on inhaling the dust
from breathing/ inhaling.
84
Carded Woollen
Fiber Bale Stand
Metallic stand will ensure opening feasability of the layers and multiple bales can be
vertically stored saving space. Addition of wheels can also ensure ease of movability
of all the bales to desired destination without directly touching it.
85
86
This being fourth and last workshop at Tonk, it was represented and
attended by larger capacity MSME's involved in export oriented
products and felt sheet manufacturing and supply.
After introductory session by Mr. Ashok Iyyer GM RUDA, Mrs. Bindoo
Ranjan gave an interactive presentation on objectives of MSME's
Design Clinic Scheme, and how parallel industrial clusters being
addressed and being implemented all over of India with this scheme.
During presentation of findings in the process of making of NAS report,
Chandrashekhar Bheda presented on the spot solutions with drawings
on opened and carded woollen fibre and dust collection chamber
as well as carded woollen bale stand to protect the bale save space.
Concluding session was greatly interactive and many representatives
of MSMEs could clear their doubts on the scheme and its projected
benefits to them.
Mr. Onkarmal, GM DIC also extended his support near future to assist
and organise the MSMEs in terms of any pending or new registration
as many unregistered MSMEs have come forward to take support of
MSME Design Clinic Scheme after they became aware of such a
scheme being implemented in Tonk district.
Besides implementing MSME's Design Clinic Scheme, Ruda
representative officer also expressed their commitment of extending
marketing support, expediting of process of GI registration etc and
assured relevant assistance in near future.
87
D A Workshop on 28th July 2012 at Jaipur
Attended by all MSME’s from Tonk, Industry, Govt officials, Design Institutes and Media
Held at Clarks Amer Jaipur
Time
Activity
Speaker
10.30 to 11.00 AM
Registration and Tea
General Manager & Project Manager RUDA
11.00 to 11.15 AM
Inauguration & Welcome note
Mr.Z A Khan, ED, RUDA
11.15 to 11.30 AM
Key Note Address
Ms. Nilima Jauhari, IAS, CMD, RUDA
11.30 to 11.45 AM
Mrs. Bindoo Ranjan, MSME, New Delhi
11.45 to 12.45 PM
Sharing of Key findings from the NAS Report
Chandrashekhar Bheda, Design Consultant
12.45 to 1. 15 PM
Presentation on Wool Mark India
Mr. Amir Sheikh, Wool Mark, India
1.15 to 2.15 PM
Lunch
2.15 to 2.45 PM
Presentation on Natural Dyes on wool."
Prof Dipti Gupta, IIT. New Delhi
2.45 to 3.15 PM
Improvement potential of felt quality
Dr. DB Shakyawar Pricipal Scientist, CSWRI
3.15 to 3.45 PM
Quality v/s Price factor in export oriented products
Shri Vishal Coudhary, Parampara Exports, Jaipur
3.45 to 4.00 PM
Tea
4.00 to 5.00 PM
Open interactive session on the way ahead
Chandrashekhar Bheda , Mr. Amir Sheikh,
Prof Dipti Gupya, Dr Shakyawar, Mrs. Bindoo Ranjan
5.00
Vote of Thanks`
Shri Ashok Iyer, GM, RUDA
88
D A Workshop on 28th July 2012 Jaipur
Workshop was inaugurated by lighting a lamp with welcome address by Mr Z A Khan, ED, RUDA
89
Key note address by Ms. Nilima jauhary,
IAS, CMD RUDA, was followed by a
presentation on MSMEs Design Clinic
Scheme by MSME-NIDs coordinator Mrs.
Bindoo Ranjan
90
Chandrashekhar Bheda sharing NAS report
and key findings with participants and with
experts panel of the workshop
91
Mr. Amir Sheikh, Country Manager,
Wool Mrak India, interacting with
Partcipants
92
Dr Deepti Gupta, Associate Professor, Dept. of
Textile Technology, Indian Institute of
Technology Delhi, sharing hear research on
Natural dyes on wool...
93
Dr D B Shakyawar, Principal Scientist, CSWRI
presenting his ideas on technical quality
improvement possibilities with woolen felt
94
Mr. Vishal Chaudhary, M D, Parampara Exports, Jaipur
Sharing his experience with participants
95
Interacting session where participant
respresntatives of MSMEs got opportunity
to share their views and their queries
were answered by the panel members
96
Younger generation of Namda Craft and felt
industry of Tonk, too shown their enthusiasm
And willingness to take the phase three ahead.
97
98
99
100
101
102
After inauguration of workshop by lighting lamp by all the speakers Mr.
ZA Khan ED, RUDA welcomed all the participants, introduced the
speakers and gave a background of the project.
In her key address, Mrs. Nilima Jauhari, IAS, CMD, RUDA elaborated on
RUDAs commitment to Tonk cluster and urged participants MSMEs to
come forward professionally for phase 3 of MEME's Design Clinic
Scheme and take advantage of the opportunity coming their way.
Mrs. Bindoo Ranjan, of MEME gave a detailed presentation on all the
aspects important to the scheme and also share success stories from
all over India on implementation of the Design Clinic Scheme.
With the support of NAS Report on the subject researched and
prepared by Chandrashekhar Bheda, he elaborated on all the issues
like, quality, iconography, craft production techniques and
technology, skills up gradation, product development, marketing
linkages, business promotion, GI registration, tool and equipment
development concerning Namda and Felt industry and possible long
term and short term remedial solutions using design thinking as a tool.
Along with courtiers producing woollen textiles all over the globe, Wool
Mark has been doing quality certification with their licensees in India
too. Mr. Amir Sheikh gave a presentation on their activities in India and
elaborated on the ways of availing benefit of their professional
network. So far Wool a has never reached Namda cluster and will be
looking forward to extend their support to the willing potential partners
from Tonk Industry,
Principal Scientist of CSWRI, Dr DB Shakyawar spoke on technical
quality improvement of felt as a material, and urged to take
assistance of the institute in any technical and technological
complexity of woollen felt production.
An intense and interactive discussion followed after Mr. Vishal
Chaudhary, a young entrepreneur of Parampara Exports spoke on
importance of achieving a combination of quality of products against
the pricing of it. He also was able to elaborate on importance of
effective supply chain management for a successful export business.
Concluding session was full of interactive dialogues on phase three of
the MSMEs Design Clinic Scheme. All the concerns on participation of
MSMEs in phase three were addressed by the panel members.
Enough enthusiasm was shared by MEMEs and they committed to
organize required documents for the processing of participation for
phase 3. Closing session of thanksgiving was carried out by Mr. Ashok
Iyer, GM, RUDA
Prof. Dipti Gupta, of IIT Delhi, with her enormous research on natural
dyes talked on use and productive application of natyral dyes on
wool and also gave insights on setting up a plant for dyeing of natural
shades in wool.
103
Design Project Potential for Phase 3 MSME-DCS
Following are the possibilities of design projects being worked out with
MSMEs of Tonk Namda and Felt Industry for phase 3
1. Flat product development for Felt and Namda craft along with
Quality Guide kit Development with an objective to create new motifs
patterns, imagery for flat products to attract newer domestic markets
Reintroduction of underutilized craft techniques Quality and feature
improvement of felt sheets, identification of moth proofing techniques
and application and flat product development
2. Development of range of 3 Dimensional and diversified products
and reintroduction of underutilized craft technique
Newer range of 3D products for domestic markets with variety of skills
and craft techniques Range of Shoes, Bags, head gears, toys, and
interior accessories & novely products
4. Development Cluster Promotional Website
To increase awareness about the Namda Craft and felt
manufacturing Industry of Tonk.
To position its presence on National arena of craft sector of India as
well as worldwide this website will have information on Namda craft
and Felt industry, its MSMEs with contact details, their products range
to make them promote their business and connectivity.
5. Development of showroom for buyers for Jain Handicrafts.
To create a facility for display and presentation of Jain Handicrafts
Namda product to buyers and customers in Tonk incorporating
conference/meeting area and display hall For periodic and regularly
done new product developments
3. Equipments, tools, safety device Development
This device will be designed and created to reduce manually rigorous
and laborious process 'Kachchi Gulawat' (initial hardening) to
enhance productivity , Carding Chamber to control the flying particles
from breathing in the process and feeding guards to stop accidental
mishaps of the workers during opening and milling process
Design of hand operated Mechanical device for hardening process
Carding Chamber design
Safety guards design
104
Dr. D B Shakyawar, Principal Scientist CSWRI, Avikanagar
Graduated in Textiles from GCTI Kanpur and Master's and doctorate
from IIT Delhi, he is working at CSWRI Avikanagar and holding position
of Principal Scientist and Head. He works with value addition of wool
and woollens blends. He has published and presented above 100
research and technical papers in his subject specialization.
Mr.Megshyam Gurjar, Aso. Prof. Banasthali Vidyapeeth, Rajasthan
Meghsyam, a textile designer and weaving specialist, is a 1984
graduate of Sir J. J. School of Arts Mumbai. Motivated by his will to
share his passion, he opted for teaching at the Banasthali Institute of
Design, Rajasthan University of Banasthali since1988. Under his impulse
and in collaboration with other faculty members, notably his wife,
Sharmila Gurjar, the university's syllabus was reviewed to better match
the requirements of the profession. He is coordinator of MA in Textile
Designing -UGC innovative program, coordinator Khadi project run by
Anopacharic Shiksha Kendra Banasthali University. Expert in Computer
Aided Design (CAD), he regularly sets up new courses, and also
conducts various trailing and workshops for other organizations,
including governmental agencies. He was also associated with the
United Nations Industrial Development Organization (UNIDO) to train
grass root weavers and designers.
Mr. Vishal Chaudhary, M D, Parampara Exports, Jaipur
Parampara Exports is a marketing facilitation company, working for the
promotion of arts and crafts of India. Parampara serves as a medium
for marketing and exporting the products of small artisans groups and
producers co-operative. Parampara employs fair trade practices as a
part of its ongoing social commitment. It is a business firm, marketing
hand made products, which are superior in quality, design and utility,
and are made through environmentally friendly processes. They have
been promoting land exporting arge range of Namda and felt
products specially crafted and manufactured from Tonk, Rajasthan.
Mr. Amir Sheikh, Country Manager, Wool Mark India
The Woolmark brand is the world's best-known textile fibre brand. It
provides consumers with guaranteed fibre content and an assurance
of quality. Wool Mark guides and helps companies to develop,
produce and market the very best wool products, The Woolmark
Company operates a global licensing program which enables Wool
Mark licensees to use one of The Wool Mark Company's logos as an
independent quality endorsement on the licensee's products.
105
Dr Deepti Gupta, Associate Professor, Dept. of Textile Technology,
Indian Institute of Technology Delhi,
Dr Gupta is on the editorial board of several journals and also a
member of the Advisory committee of Central Silk Board, Bangalore.
Dr Deepti Gupta (PhD, IIT Delhi) is currently employed as an Associate
Professor at the Department of Textile Technology at IIT Delhi. In the
department, she is associated with the Textile Chemical Processing
group and has recently initiated teaching and Research activity in the
area of Functional Clothing.
Prior to joining IIT Delhi as a faculty member in 1997, Dr Gupta worked
as a Research Advisor to Alps Industries in Ghaziabad, UP, in their
natural dyes plant. She was also honoured with research fellowship at
the CSIR lab - CIMAP at Lucknow during 1994-95. Before this, she
worked at Technological Institute of Textiles and Sciences where she
was responsible for setting up and establishing their new program in
"Garment Technology". In 2006, Dr Gupta was invited as a visiting
faculty at ENSAIT, France.
She has been involved actively in teaching and research activities for
the last 25 years. Her current areas of research include surface
functionalisation of textiles for finishing and functional clothing. She
has guided 21 M.Tech. projects and 4 students have completed their
PhD under her guidance. Five students are currently enrolled with her
for PhD.
Dr Deepti Gupta has co-ordinated several conferences and
conducted workshops on and off site. She has authored 1 book on
natural dyes, edited 3 books and one special issue of IJFTR journal in
Dec.2011. One book being edited by her is due to be published in
2013. She has published more than 70 papers in scholarly journals
and presented more than 20 papers in International and National
conferences.
106
RUDA- Rural Non Farm Development Agency
The Organisation
Government of Rajasthan established the Rural Non Farm
Development Agency (RUDA) in November 1995 as an exclusive
agency to promote the rural micro-enterprises in the State. Its primary
mandate is to:
? Create alternative avenues of employment.
? Generate incremental incomes.
RUDA is registered under the Societies Registration Act giving it a
certain autonomy and flexibility in its functioning. Over the last 9
years, RUDA has evolved as an innovative, creative and a highly
professional agency to achieve its daunting but challenging
mandate.
The Approach
RUDA is perhaps the only agency of its kind, promoting rural micro
enterprises on sub-sectoral basis. Initially, 3 sub-sectors viz. Leather,
Wool & Minor-Minerals (Stone, Ceramics and Pottery) had been
identified. During the 10th Five Year Plan three new Sub-Sectorss
namely Handicraft, Khadi & Village Industries and Handloom have
been added. RUDA works through a cluster based approach. It
adopts a truly integrated strategy to promote the sector and all its
interventions are based on the felt needs of the producers. Among
others, RUDA's package of interventions include:
* Technology dissemination
* Design support
* Product development
* Credit facilitation
* Market facilitation
Organization Structures
The management of RUDA is vested in its Governing Board appointed
by the State Government. Official members from the State
Government include heads of various State corporations, financial
institutions etc.
While the Secretary, Industries Department is the Chairman of the
Agency and Commissioner Industries is the Vice-Chairman, the
Managing Director is a senior civil servant from the state government.
Interventions of RUDA
A. Organization & Capacity Building :B. Cluster development :B. Technology Dissemination / Intervention :C. Product and Design Development :-
* Sub-sectoral analysis
* Capacity audit of artisan clusters
* Identifying operational constraints
* Organising artisans
* Microfinance for SHGs and CIGs
* Microenterprise development
* Skill development training
D. Credit Facilitation :F. Market Facilitation :-
107
Chandrashekhar Bheda is a textiles and handicrafts product designer,
based in Delhi. After studying at Sir J.J. School of Arts, Bombay,
National Institute of Design, NID, Ahmedabad as well as NIFT Delhi.
Chandrashekhar has been working with the textiles industry since
1988.
He has been involved in design projects with various commercial and
developmental organizations for the creation of marketable textiles
and handicrafts products for domestic as well as overseas markets
with assistance in design; incorporating research, product
development, technology enhancement, quality, and market
access. He has also been able to keep traditional artisan's long-term
benefits alive along with the commercial viabilities through his work.
Advertising (NIA) Delhi, IILM School of Design, Gurgaon, National
Center for Textile Design (NCTD), Pearl Academy of Fashion,
Banasthali Vidyapeeth, Rajasthan and Banaras Hindu University (BHU).
Founded Spider Design Studio in 1998 and has been creating;
producing and supplying commissioned special product range,
corporate brand promotional gifts and textiles arts for lifestyle and
business interiors.
Chandrashekhar believes in the inherent timeless beauty and
strengths of our traditional arts and crafts, while providing a new
perspective to meet contemporary demands and trends world over.
Experimentation with various traditional as well as high technology
textiles and crafts techniques has been his main tool to achieve
newer concepts and expressions through his design work.
He has been professionally associated with Oxfam Fair Trade
Company UK, Care India, UNIFEM, UNDP, GTZ Nepal, RUDA Jaipur, ILO,
Pradan, ACCESS, Office of the D C Handicrafts and Office of the D C
Handlooms (Ministry of Textiles), MPHSVN, Dastkari Haat Samiti, KMVS
Bhuj, Indian Cornucopia, R R Decor, Ogaan Boutique, Corcoise Films
Mumbai, Floor & Furnishings, LG, Bajaj Auto, Taj Khazana, Suzlon
Corpration and Axis Bank Ltd.
He is on the panel of Industry Experts for various institutions including
National Institute of Design (NID) Ahemdabad, National Institute of
Fashion Technology (NIFT) Delhi, Craft Development Institute (CDI)
Srinagar, Indian Institute of Carpet Technology (IICT) Srinagar, Indian
Institute of Crafts and Design (IICD) Jaipur, National Institute of
108

Tonk, Rajasthan - Design Clinic Scheme

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