Product Brochure

PersonalCare
Laraquat™
Naturally Derived Specialty Conditioning
Polymer for Hair Care
SAP Code: 141180
Preservation System: None
INCI Name: Galactoarabinan Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride
Key Product Attributes
Introduction
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Laraquat™ specialty conditioning polymer begins with the natural building
blocks of the larch tree active. The Larch tree has a history of beneficial
characteristics, dating back to the use of the tree by Native Americans.
They utilized gum resin rich in galactoarabinan (GA) to help improve overall health, the digestive and immune systems in particular. GA, a natural
polysaccharide polymer, is harvested from the larch tree in the Northern
parts of the U.S. using patented proprietary extraction technologies.
Naturally derived specialty conditioning polymer
Conditions hair to improve manageability and combing
Reduces hair frizz in humid conditions
Reduces static and fly-away hair
Protects hair from heat damage and reduces breakage
Suitable for all hair types, including ethnic hair
Use Level: 1–3 %
GA has demonstrated many benefits in skin and hair care applications.
This active has film-forming properties which have been shown to protect
hair from damage and improve conditioning of hair for soft texture and
PersonalCare
Laraquat™ – Natural-Derived Specialty
Conditioning Polymer for Hair Care
This resulting chemistry is the unique and patented Laraquat™ specialty
conditioning polymer. The process adds quaternary nitrogen groups onto
the backbone of the polysaccharide, creating an ingredient more substantive to hair. It is a mild, non-irritating, water-soluble and non-ethoxylated polymer that works in a variety of formulations. With an average
molecular weight of approximately 20,000 Daltons, it provides lighter
styling for leave-in products and a more weightless feel, while still offering substantial conditioning benefits to hair. This ingredient was evaluated for key conditioning and functional benefits through tress studies.
These evaluations show the Laraquat™ polymer improves manageability, reduces static and offers protection to hair from humidity, reducing frizz significantly. It also reduces breakage and shields hair from
thermal damage.
flexibility. This multifunctional active is available for Personal Care applications as the product LaraCare™ A200. The Lonza Nutrition business
also draws on the larch tree with its ResistAid™ ingredient for nutritional
supplements, which provides both digestive health benefits and immune
system support. In its pure form, GA is highly dispersible in water. To make
this ingredient even more effective for hair care applications, Lonza has
boosted the natural benefits of GA, enriching it further with quaternization technology.
Conserving Nature’s Powerful Source
for Health and Beauty
Galactoarabinan (GA) is a natural, renewable and sustainable resource
from the Larch tree.
–– Careful harvesting minimizes the impact on the environment
and preserves the population of the trees
–– Harvesting only completed during a narrow timeframe
of the year, between December and March
–– To help reduce the impact on the environment and population,
the harvest levels are kept below the recommended levels to
prevent the resource from being threatened
–– Re-seeding is accomplished by purposefully leaving a
minimum of high quality seed trees per acre
–– Total population of the tree species in this area of
Minnesota has increased since 1990
These efforts are intended to ensure this natural resource will continue
to be available in the future.
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Substantivity to Hair
The Laraquat™ polymer was evaluated for its substantive effects using
a Rubine Red dye substantivity measuring technique. The material was
evaluated at 3.0 % use level in a variety of formulations, including conditioner, non-ionic and anionic shampoo bases in rinse off applications
on previously damaged European blonde hair tresses. The anionic dye,
Rubine Red, complexes with cationic ingredients that have deposited on
the hair tresses. The intensity and shade of the resultant dye deposition
on the tresses is indicative of the amount of cationic polysaccharide that
has deposited. The results show this ingredient to be highly substantive
even in rinse-off formulations, as shown in Fig. 1 by the red dye color on
the hair tresses.
Scanning electron photomicrographs of these hair fibers treated with
Laraquat™ polymer are shown next to untreated fibers. These images
demonstrate differences in the appearance of the tress cuticles when
comparing the untreated tresses to the tresses treated with the Laraquat™
polymer. The treated tress has a smoother surface with less indications
of cuticle damage.
Fig. 1: Rubine Red Deposition Testing
Fig. 2: SEM – Impact on Hair Fiber Appearance
Left: Control
Right: Laraquat™ Polymer – 3.0 % Use Level in Non-ionic shampoo base
Top: Untreated Damaged Hair Tress
Bottom: Damaged Hair Tress – Treated – Laraquat™ 3.0 % in Anionic Shampoo base
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PersonalCare
Laraquat™ – Natural-Derived Specialty
Conditioning Polymer for Hair Care
Efficacy Testing Background
Reduced Static & Fly-away Hair
For examination of the effects of the polymer on thermal protection, combing and anti-static studies, tests were performed on European brown hair.
To examine the influence of the polymer on frizz control, testing was performed on Virgin Ethnic hair. The tresses were dam­aged for wet combing
and thermal protection by using a standard hydrogen peroxide bleaching
protocol. All experiments were performed after overnight equilibration
of the hair at 60% Relative Humidity (RH). Eight tresses were used per
treatment. A simple conditioner formulation was employed to deliver the
Laraquat™ in­gredient. The control was the same base formulation without
an additional conditioning agent.
Consumers’ hair can be stressed from low humidity and its impact on
their hair structure. With low humidity, hair can be negatively impacted
by this reduction of moisture. It is well known that moisture can help to
plasticize hair fibers, while low humidity causes hair to become more
brittle. Combing hair during low humidity conditions builds up greater
anionic charge, leading to a build-up of static electricity in the hair. With
the build-up of static, consumers must then deal with fly-away hair. This
especially occurs in winter months when low humidity conditions are more
prevalent. Consumers look for hair care products to reduce this static and
tame their fly-away hair.
Conditioning agents such as the Laraquat™ polymer can assist with reducing the static build up. This impact can be measured by combing the hair
in a low humidity environment that subsequently builds up static charge
in the fibers. Hair tresses were treated, rinsed and dried. The tresses were
combed and measured by a sensor for the static buildup within the tress.
Results of the static build-up studies are shown below.
Improved Manageability
Consumers want easy to manage hair that they can groom without struggle. One of the main functions of conditioning agents is to enable easier
combing and improve manageability of hair. Tangled and unconditioned
hair requires more force and is harder to comb, while conditioned hair is
easier to comb and manage.
Fig. 4: Anti-Static Conditioner Study
Static Build-up in Tresses
Static Bulidup (Volts)
Improved conditioning and manageability can be shown through combing studies. This evaluation shows how conditioning products assist in
detangling hair and allow for easier combing and grooming of the hair
through the measurement of the force needed to comb the tresses. The
combing study was completed with Laraquat™ polymer in a conditioner
formulation. Tresses were treated and rinsed before evaluation. The studies were performed with combing while the hair was wet.
500.000
400.000
100.000
0.000
Control
Laraquat™ (1.0 % Use Level)
The Laraquat™ polymer reduces static over the control conditioner. This
demonstrates a reduction of the static buildup, resulting in less fly-away
hair over the control.
Box Plot of Maximum Load (gf)
Maxium Load (gf)
700.000
600.000
400.000
Fig. 3: Wet Combing Conditioner Study
160.00
140.00
120.00
100.00
80.00
60.00
40.00
20.00
Control
900.000
800.000
300.000
The tresses were combed with an automated combing instrument that
measures frictional forces and provides a quantitative measurement of
the force needed to comb the tress. The reduction of force needed shows
the improved combing and manageability from the ingredient.
0.00
1000.000
Laraquat™ (1.0 % Use Level)
The Laraquat™ polymer shows improved manageability through reduction of
force needed for combing over the control.
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Comparative Benchmark
Fig 6: Treated Hair Tresses in Humidity Controlled Environment
A commercially available cationic polymer was included for comparative
purposes as shown below. A slightly higher use level of the Laraquat™
polymer was employed to provide a more equivalent comparison based
on active level. Because of the significant differences in molecular weight
between the Laraquat™ polymer and the benchmark polymer, the higher
use level compensates for the difference in molecular weight.
Ingredient
Use Level
Active Level
Molecular Wt.
Laraquat™
1.0 %
0.4 %
~20,000 Daltons
Polyquaternium-10
0.3 %
0.3 %
~450,000 Daltons
Frizz Control
Consumers are continually searching for better reduction of frizz over
extended periods of time and this is a common demand for ethnic hair
care products. Frizz results from the hair absorbing moisture which alters
the ionic nature of the surface of the hair, making it more anionic. This is
the reason for the increased frizz in high humidity conditions.
Virgin ethnic hair tresses were treated with the leave-in conditioner and
then evaluated in a controlled environment with 80 % RH. During a 24-hour
period, the tresses were evaluated against a backdrop and quantitatively
measured for the tress volume. The reduction in tress volume demonstrates the ability of the cationic ingredient to neutralize the anionic charge
and reduce the appearance of frizz. The area of individual dry tresses is
determined by pixel count. The amount of frizz (volume of the tress) is
calculated as a percentage of reversion relative to the tresses before treatment and final area of the tresses. Results of these frizz control studies
are shown below.
Fig. 5: Frizz Control Leave-in Conditioner Study
Volume %
100
90
80
70
60
50
0 min.
30 min.
Control
1 Hour
2 Hours
4 Hours
Leave-in Conditioner with Laraquat™
(1.0 % use level) – 0 min.
Control – Leave-in Conditioner –
24 hours elapsed
Leave-in Conditioner with Laraquat™
(1.0 % use level) – 24 hours elapsed
The visual impact of the treatment with Laraquat™ polymer is noticeable when reviewing
the images of the tresses during the controlled environment evaluation. The tresses show
a noticeable improvement with the smoothness and volume of the tress. There is a reduction in the frizz of the tress treated with the Laraquat polymer over the tress treated with
the control conditioner.
Results for All Treatments at 80 % RH
40
Control – Leave-in Conditioner – 0 min.
8 Hours 24 Hours
Polyquaternium-10 (0.3 % Use Level)
Laraquat™ (1.0 % Use Level)
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PersonalCare
Laraquat™ – Natural-Derived Specialty
Conditioning Polymer for Hair Care
Thermal Protection and Reduction
of Hair Breakage
Conclusion
Lonza has boosted the natural benefits of Galactoarabinan, enriching it
further with quaternization technology to make a product that delivers
improved benefits in hair care applications. Consumers are looking for
conditioning products that provide noticeable benefits for their hair. Many
consumers want more manageable hair, with less frizz, static and breakage. Laraquat™ specialty conditioning polymer is a unique and innovative
ingredient that delivers on these consumer needs and offers value in
multiple hair care applications.
Commonly used heated treatments, such as flat irons and hair dryers, can
lead to damaged hair fibers from the exposure to heat. As a result, hair can
be more prone to breakage. Protection against this thermal exposure can
help reduce breakage of hair. Consumers need more protection against
thermal damage to hair so they can continue to enjoy the flexibility and
convenience of using their preferred heated styling tools.
Damaged hair tresses were treated with the leave-in conditioner, then blow
dried for a constant time and each tress was flat ironed with 20 passes of
a flat iron at 232 °C. The tresses were then subjected to repeated grooming experiments using a rotating drum combing wheel which results in
breakage of the fibers over time. The rotating wheel contains a variable
speed motor, and experiments were performed at 50 strokes/minute.
Collection plates were placed under each tress to save broken fiber fragments, while spacer plates on the rotating combing drum prevent cross
contamination. The number of broken fibers is recorded as a function of
repeated combing and brush stroke.
This patented technology’s extensive multifunctional properties include
frizz control protection in high humidity, protection from heat damage
resulting in less hair breakage, improved manageability and combing, and
reduction of static and fly-away hair. In addition to these benefits, its lower
molecular weight makes it flexible and adaptable to many formulations,
including sprays and foams. It provides substantial conditioning functions
without weighing hair down, regardless of whether the cationic polymer is
delivered from leave-in or rinse-off formulations. It can noticeably improve
the functionality of shampoos and conditioners, and other leave-in or
styling hair care products.
The Laraquat™ polymer reduces snags, entanglements and abrasion to
help in substantially lowering the number of broken fibers as shown in
the data below.
Fig. 7: Heat Protection Leave-in Conditioner Study
# of Broken Fibers after 10,000 Strokes
# of Broken Fibers after 10,000 Strokes
100.00
90.00
80.00
70.00
60.00
50.00
40.00
30.00
20.00
10.00
0.00
Control
Laraquat™
(1.0 % Use Level)
Polyquaternium-10
(0.3 % Use Level)
The Laraquat™ polymer reduces the number of broken fibers of hair, offering
protection to hair from thermal damage and breakage. It shows a 48 % reduction
over the control for the number of broken hair fibers per tress. Consumers will
see more protection for their hair when using styling tools such as flat irons
and less hair breakage when grooming after those treatments.
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Solubility & Formulating Information
Product Specifications
Typical Properties
Laraquat™ specialty conditioning polymer provides flexibility in formulations while still delivering substantial conditioning benefits. This active is
easy to formulate and will work in any hair care formulations, including hair
sprays. It works in multiple surfactant systems including silicone-free or
sulfate-free hair care formulations. This material is in liquid form, ready to
use and will not lead to fish-eyes. Unlike many conventional conditioning
agents, it will not reduce the foam of anionic and non-ionic surfactants.
It can be used at higher levels without negatively impacting viscosity or
aesthetics of the formulation. This conditioning polymer is ideal for leave-in
and rinse-off applications for hair care.
Laraquat™ specialty conditioning polymer is water soluble and can be used
in clear systems. This active should only be added in the end of the batch
under 45°C. It is not soluble in oils and esters. Laraquat™ polymer can easily
be formulated with salt and electrolytes tolerance thickeners to form clear
gels, provided that they are pre-neutralized. A slight loss in viscosity will
result but can easily be compensated for by adjusting the level of resin.
Solubility Chart
Laraquat™ Solubility Characteristics
3.0 %
Ingredient
Sodium Lauryl Sulfate
S
Sodium Laureth Sulfate
S
Cocamidopropyl Betaine
S
Decyl Glucoside
D
Cocamide EDA
D
Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate
S
Aqueous Alcohol (60/40)
D
Glycerin
S
Propylene Glycol
IS
D = Dispersible S= Soluble IS= Insoluble
Procedure – To a small glass vial, add the required amounts of each ingredient (3 % / 97 %)
and shake well. For ingredients requiring heating, melt until liquid and add in the Laraquat™
polymer. Shake well and allow to cool to room temperature.
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Appearance
Clear to hazy liquid
Color
Amber
Odor
Slight
Active Polymer
40.0 %–55.0 %
Ash
5.0 % Maximum
IR
Matches Standard
Preservative System
None
pH
4.0–6.5
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www.lonza.com/specifications.html
USA
Lonza Personal Care
70 Tyler Place
South Plainfield, NJ 07080
Tel +1-908-412-6461
[email protected]
Switzerland
Lonza Ltd
Muenchensteinerstrasse 38
4002 Basel
Tel +41 61 316 81 11
[email protected]
This document is an overview for professionals of certain scientific information on the subject ingredient and certain scientific information on
clinical and other trials with such ingredient. No claims are made herein for any particular consumer product, and any use of these statements
is the sole responsibility of the user based on its independent evaluation. The republication of the statements made herein is prohibited. The
recommended use for our product is as a cosmetic ingredient. It is always important to ensure that final communications to the consumer
on cosmetic products containing our ingredient products comply with the applicable claims regulations in the regions/countries where the
cosmetic products are marketed. Statements made in this document may indicate mechanisms of the subject ingredient generally, and
such claims may not be suitable for a finished cosmetic product. Users of our product should make an independent determination as to the
appropriate use of such product in a given finished cosmetic formulation, as well as the suitability of, and support for, any claims made in
labeling or advertising for such finished cosmetic formulation. The information contained herein is believed to be correct and corresponds
to the latest state of scientific and technical knowledge. However, no warranty, either express or implied, is made regarding its accuracy or
the results to be obtained from the use of such information. The user assumes all risks of use and/or handling of our products. No statement
herein is intended or should be construed as a recommendation to infringe any existing patent. NO WARRANTIES ARE GIVEN HEREIN AND
ALL IMPLIED WARRANTIES, INCLUDING WITHOUT LIMITATION ANY IMPLIED WARRANTIES OF MERCHANTABILITY OR FITNESS FOR A PARTICULAR
PURPOSE, ARE EXPRESSLY DISCLAIMED.
05/14
© 2014 Lonza Ltd