the source of new textile design talent

DESIGNS AND ACTIVITIES FROM TEXPRINT© 2010
2010
ANNUAL R EPORT
the source of new textile design talent
REGISTERED CHARITY NO: 1000411
TEXPRINT 2010 STARS WITH TEXPRINT MANAGEMENT TEAM AT FIRST VIEW, CHELSEA COLLEGE OF ART & DESIGN, JULY 2010
TEXPRINT® IDENTIFIES, SELECTS AND LAUNCHES THE MOST
INNOVATIVE TEXTILE DESIGN GRADUATES OF BRITISH COLLEGES
TO INDUSTRY INTERNATIONALLY
www.texprint.org.uk
TEXPRINT® REGISTERED OFFICE: 19 ROSKELL ROAD, LONDON SW15 IDS
TELEPHONE: +44 (0) 20 8789 7527 FACSIMILE: +44 (0) 20 8789 5721
e-mail: [email protected]
REGISTERED CHARITY NO: 1000411 VAT REGISTRATION NO: 562 2007 76
2010
MAJOR SPONSORS
BURBERRY
CONFINDUSTRIA COMO
THE CLOTHWORKERS’ FOUNDATION
THE COTTON INDUSTRY WAR MEMORIAL TRUST
DIANE von FURSTENBERG
THE DRAPERS’ COMPANY
GARFIELD WESTON FOUNDATION
THE HABERDASHERS’ COMPANY
INDIGO
JAEGER
THE LAURA ASHLEY FOUNDATION
MARKS & SPENCER
NEW LOOK
SANDERSON ART IN INDUSTRY TRUST
PRIZE SPONSORS
The Clothworkers’ Foundation
Liberty Art Fabrics
Lyle & Scott
Pantone Europe
Pentland Group plc
Sanderson Art in Industry Trust
SPONSORING PUBLISHERS
COLLEZIONI Trends
VIEW Publications
SUPPORTERS
Aquascutum
Boden
Donna Karan
Friends of Texprint
Giles Deacon
Hobbs
Lord Barnby’s Foundation
Makower Prize Fund
Miroglio Textile Srl/Ulmia
Paul Smith
Ratti SpA
R.A. Smart Textile Printers
Salvatore Ferragamo Italia SpA
Swiss Textile Federation
UKFT Textiles
Weisbrod-Zuerrer AG
The Worshipful Company of Weavers
The Worshipful Company of World Traders
I N-KIND SUPPORTERS
Mode Information
R.A. Smart Ltd
The Textile Institute
Toray Textiles Europe Ltd
WGSN
2010
Chelsea College of Art & Design
D&AD Talentpool
e-style
Gallant Macmillan LLP
Messe Frankfurt (HK)
1
JULIUS SCHOFIELD MBE,
WITH PETER RING-LEFEVRE, CREATIVE DIRECTOR
TEXPRINT, LOUISE TROTTER, AND GILLES LASBORDES, DIRECTOR INDIGO (MAJOR
SPONSORS), IN THE TEXPRINT SCARF COMPETITION DISPLAY AREA KINDLY DONATED
BY INDIGO.
JULIUS SCHOFIELD MBE, RETIRING CHAIRMAN TEXPRINT WITH LOUISE TROTTER,
PRIZE PRESENTER AND CREATIVE DIRECTOR, JOSEPH AND BARBARA KENNINGTON,
NEW CHAIRMAN TEXPRINT AT INDIGO, PARIS
JULIUS SCHOFIELD MBE WITH PRIZE PRESENTER LOUISE TROTTER AND PETER
RING-LEFEVRE, CREATIVE DIRECTOR TEXPRINT, AT ENTRANCE OF INDIGO, PARIS
COMMENTS BY PRIZE PRESENTERS AT TEXPRINT,
I NDIGO, PARIS
“Textile designers need all the encouragement they can get as they play such a vital role in developing new fashion ideas
and normally all the credit goes to the fashion designers. I have just been round the stands and I was overwhelmed by all
the new ideas that I saw.”
Louise Trotter, Creative Director, Joseph, September 2010
“What an amazing, exciting selection of work I have just seen! The talent of the 24 star textile graduates of the class of
2009 is so inspiring – I am delighted that this talent should be showcased by Texprint at Indigo and Première Vision, the
world’s foremost textile fair.”
Harold Tillman, Chairman British Fashion Council, Jaeger and Aquascutum, September 2009
“It is fantastic to be involved with Texprint, as it is a great opportunity for the industry to meet designers at the start of
their career. Looking around today has really reinforced how important textile design is to the fashion and interiors
industry. I wish everyone here the very best of luck with their future careers.”
Sir Paul Smith, September 2008
“Texprint, which is financed and organized by the top names of the British fashion and clothing industries, is absolutely
vital to get young talent started.”
Sir Peter Westmacott, British Ambassador, September 2007
2010
“I think that the fashion industry is starving for this kind of work. When I am looking for prints I want to have modernity,
things that are relevant for today’s life, and that is what I have seen at Texprint.”
Alber Elbaz, Creative Director LANVI N, September 2006
“I applaud Texprint and the opportunities it gives. All the designers presenting here are winners, I congratulate you and
advise you that everything changes now you are out in the industry. But do not be discouraged; above all stay true to
yourselves, do what you believe in, do not compromise and have confidence in your talents.”
Nathan Jenden, Diane von Furstenberg, September 2005
2
ANNUAL R EPORT FOR TEXPRINT 2010
®
Company Limited by Guarantee
Registered Charity No.1000411
HONORARY TRUSTEES & DIRECTORS:
Hugh Beevor
Hon. Treasurer
Julius Schofield, MBE
Hon. Chairman (retiring)
Barbara Kennington
Hon. Chairman
MANAGEMENT:
Joanna Bowring
Sponsorship Director
Helga Goldman
CEO
Peter Ring-Lefevre
Creative Director
COUNCIL:
Campaign for Wool
Valerie Beattie
Loughborough University School of Art & Design
Sarah Cheyne
Johnson Cheyne Design
Sean Chiles
Northumbria University
Christian Dewar Durie
Journalist
Catherine Gasquet
Mode Information
Gill Gledhill
GGHQ & Première Vision Pluriel
David Harvey
Journalist / Representative Pitti Immagine
Stephen Higginson,
Super-Vision
Janet Holbrook
Holbrook Studios
Tim Hoar
Central St. Martin’s Innovation
Barbara Horspool
New Look
Clare Johnston
Royal College of Art
Jane Makower
M.Makower & Co Ltd
Emma Mawston
Liberty Art Fabrics
Jaine McCormack
Guy Goodfellow Ltd
Jane Rapley, OBE
Central St. Martins College of Art & Design
Kay Politowicz
Chelsea College of Art & Design
Anne Tyrrell, MBE
Anne Tyrrell Design
Sandy Verdon,
Hobbs, Creative Director
Philippa Watkins
Journalist / Tutor RCA
Ronald Weisbrod
Weisbrod-Zuerrer AG
2010
Peter Ackroyd, MBE
OBSERVERS:
Philippa George
The Collection
Gilian Little
Freelance Designer and Tutor
Dominic Lowe
Sanderson Art in Industry Trust
3
KOKO KASUGAI© PRINT DESIGNER
JOSIE WARDEN© MIXED MEDIA DESIGNER
EMMA BRADBURY© KNIT DESIGNER
WHAT IS TEXPRINT?
IT IS A PROGRAMME TO PROMOTE THE MOST I NNOVATIVE N EW TEXTILE DESIGNERS
TO I NDUSTRY WORLD-WIDE
British art and design colleges have a leading international reputation for technical and creative training,
especially in textiles and fashion.
There are many talented designers graduating but it is difficult for companies to find the right design
‘handwriting’ or the suitable creative person for their requirements.
In a fragmented global industry even excellent graduates find it hard to know which companies to
approach or the appropriate executive within them.
Texprint makes the best talent easily accessible to the industry, thereby helping the designers establish
their careers
Over 200 top graduates of British colleges, of any nationality, are initially nominated to Texprint by
their tutors.
Tutorial-style panels of industry experts donate their time and expertise to help make the rigorous selection
of 24 ‘stars’.
Applicants are judged on the excellence of their work and their ability to make full use of the opportunity
offered.
Those selected present their work initially in London at First View and then to international industry at
INDIGO, Paris within Première Vision Pluriel.
Each star designer has their own stand in this international textile design specialist arena.
Out of 175 exhibitors at INDIGO, 83 were British and of those 9 were Texprint alumni studios, with many
other alumni working for other British and international studios.
In September 2010 INDIGO attracted 12,046 visitors, of whom 71% were international, and the 6 Premiere
Vision Pluriel shows (Expofil, Premiere Vision, Indigo, Le Cuir a Paris, ModAmont, Zoom by Fatex) jointly
registered 61,440 visits from fashion professionals from over 100 countries across the world, an increase in
attendance of over 10.2% over the September 2009 shows. All the visitors are potential clients for original
textile design.
Prior to the London show industry experts judge the designers for six sponsored prizes.
The six prize winners, sponsored by Messe Frankfurt (HK), exhibited also in the ‘Designers’ Studio’ section,
at Interstoff Asia Essential in Hong Kong, an invaluable insight into the growing source of production.
2010
Designers originally selected by the programme are in jobs or have been working regularly with companies
as varied as ANTHROPOLOGIE, ARMANI EXCHANGE, BURBERRY, CALVIN KLEIN, CELINE,
CERRUTI, CHLOE, CHRISTIAN LACROIX, DAMIEN HIRST, DIANE VON FURSTENBERG, ETRO,
DONNA KARAN, FERRAGAMO, GILES DEACON, GUCCI, HABITAT, HERMES, JAEGER, LANVIN,
LEGGIUNO, LIBERTY ART FABRIC, MANGO, MARKS & SPENCER, MAX AZRIA BCBG, MIROGLIO,
MISSONI, NEXT, NEW LOOK, PAUL SMITH, POLO-RALPH LAUREN, RATTI, SALVATORE
FERRAGAMO, STELLA MACARTNEY, VERSACE SPORT, ZARA HOME.
Texprint alumni work is regularly seen on leading designer’s runways - but unlike fashion designers their
names are rarely publicised. Without textiles, however, there would be no fashion... no clothing...
TEXPRINT® was established over 40 years ago and has helped over 7,000 designers at the start of their
careers. Innumerable design houses and textile companies in fashion and furnishing have benefited.
Texprint is seeking funds, now, to continue its activities for TEXPRINT 2011
4
SIR STUART ROSE PRESENTS ANDREW STEVENSON WITH THE CHAIRMANʼS PRIZE,
RETIRING CHAIRMAN JULIUS SCHOFIELD MBE, PRIZE PRESENTER LOUISE TROTTER
SPENCER FLAGSHIP STORE, MARBLE ARCH IN SEPTEMBER. MARKS & SPENCER ARE
WINNERS AT INDIGO. L-R: ANDREW STEVENSON, ELENA MUNOZ, HOLLY BRADLEY-
KINDLY SPONSORED BY RETIRING CHAIRMAN JULIUS SCHOFIELD MBE, AT MARKS &
MAJOR SPONSORS.
AND CHAIRMAN BARBARA KENNINGTON WITH THE SIX TEXPRINT 2010 PRIZE
GILL, REBECCA PHOENIX LU, ANDREW BOYD AND SARAH PODLESNY.
C HAIRMAN’S R EPORT
Texprint 2010: a year of transition, consolidation and creativity
On behalf of the Texprint executive, I’d like to extend our appreciation to Julius Schofield, MBE who retired in
October. Julius has been both Honorary Chairman and a Trustee of Texprint since 2004. His seven-year tenure
has been one of the most dynamic in recent Texprint history, with Julius personally sponsoring the annual
Chairman’s Prize, championing closer collaborations with Confindustria Como, and persuading major
international fashion designers and brands, such as Donna Karan and Diane von Furstenberg in New York, and
Burberry, Aquascutum, Paul Smith, Jaeger and New Look in London, to become supporters and sponsors. We
were delighted that Julius' contribution to the industry was recognised with an MBE in the New Year's Honours.
Earlier this year I was invited to become Julius’ successor. Given that my career has been firmly embedded in
the fashion and texiles industry for many years, I was delighted to accept and look forward to using my
experience to further enhance Texprint’s creative positioning both in the UK and abroad.
Texprint is fortunate in enjoying the generosity of many companies and individuals who contribute in so many
ways. We are indebted to the continuing benevolence of the charitable trusts and livery companies as Major
Sponsors - the Clothworkers’ Foundation, the Cotton Industry War Memorial Trust, the Drapers’ Company,
Garfield Weston Foundation, the Haberdashers’ Company, the Laura Ashley Foundation and the Sanderson Art
in Industry Trust, with the Worshipful Company of Weavers continuing as Supporters and, new this year, the
Worshipful Company of World Traders.
Chelsea College of Art & Design in London, Indigo in Paris, and Messe Frankfurt (HK) in Hong Kong gave us
the context of their wonderful exhibition spaces; our thanks to the individuals, many of whom are ex-Texprint
designers themselves, who gave their time and expertise during the intensive interview programme; and to our
judges at First View - Elena Alfani, Peter Copping, Wakako Kishimoto, Donna Wilson, Derrick Campbell and Sally
Taylor.
Our thanks also to Sir Stuart Rose of Marks & Spencer, long-term Major Sponsors, who presented the Chairman’s
Prize, and Louise Trotter, design director at Joseph, who presented the prizes to our award winners at Indigo.
The inter-college competitions – ComON Texprint and Silk Scarf competitions – were enthusiastically received,
again providing an international platform for British designers, and an invaluable introduction to the Italian
textile industry.
2010 has been a challenging year, and 2011 will undoubtedly follow suit. It is never easy to drive and increase
sponsorship programmes, however the indications are that despite difficult financial and economic times,
companies and individuals are placing still greater store in philanthropic activities and are actively supporting
organisations that really do make a difference.
We are delighted to confirm the first of our Foundation Sponsors - The Clothworker’s Foundation, the Drapers’
Company and Woolmark International supporting the Campaign for Wool, have all made longer-term
commitments to Texprint for which we are most grateful.
Looking to the future, our aim is to build greater financial security for Texprint, to raise international awareness
of Texprint designers and alumni, and to promote Texprint as central to the support of creative textile design in
the UK.
The online world offers great potential. Given that enhanced communication, social networking and the
development of Texprint’s online community are key for the future, we have redesigned the Texprint website,
which is at phase 1 of a new structure.
2010
We are delighted to announce an additional prize. The Woolmark Texprint Award 2011 marks the return of
Woolmark International as Major Sponsors, and will be judged and presented at Indigo in Paris. This is a very
exciting development - not only for Texprint, but also for the British design colleges who will benefit from the
Woolmark tutorial programme.
The ongoing support and generosity of our sponsors, prize donors and supporters is hugely appreciated. We
will continue to work closely with them, ensuring they too benefit from the relationship – by supporting British
talent, supporting innovative design, and in many cases, benefitting from early commercial access to innovative
new ideas and textile concepts.
Barbara Kennington
Chairman
5
SELECTION PANEL TIPHAINE PIGGOTT, CAITLIN HINSHELWOOD, KATIE GREENYER
(ALL TEXPRINT ALUMNI) BARBARA KENNINGTON (NEW CHAIRMAN) JOANNA BOWRING
AND PETER RING-LEFEVRE INTERVIEW FOR TEXPRINT 2010
PRIZE JUDGES PETER COPPING, NINA RICCI WITH ENID BROWN AND DERRICK
CAMPBELL, LYLE & SCOTT (KNIT PRIZE DONOR) IN DISCUSSION
TEXPRINT 2010 PRIZE JUDGES WAKAKO KISHIMOTO AND DONNA WILSON TALK TO
DESIGNERS ABOUT THEIR COLLECTION
GUESTS AT THE FIRST VIEW PRIVATE VIEW CHELSEA COLLEGE OF ART & DESIGN IN
JULY 2010
FINANCIAL R EPORT
AUDITED FINANCIAL STATEMENTS FOR 2009: In the expectation of extremely difficult financial conditions
an early approach to Supporters and Sponsors fortunately met with a very positive response and early commitments
were received to ensure the year's programme. Sponsorship and other income at £210,000 even exceeded slightly
our target. At the same time some one off savings were made in fees and costs were cut to the minimum. Expenses
at £187,000 were £15,000 lower than the previous year. As a result after the deficit suffered in 2008 of £13,000, a
surplus of £24,000 was recorded. This enabled Texprint to replenish its Reserves which rose to £77,000.
2010
FINANCIAL POSITION IN 2010: The year proved as difficult as expected for our Sponsors and Supporters,
not all of whom could maintain their sponsorship of the Programme. In addition we had been advised by one
Major Sponsor that their contribution would be phased out over three years and another Major Sponsor
withdrew for a year. As a result our income dropped and a deficit is expected similar in size to the surplus
earned in 2009, which will leave our Reserves back at their 2008 level. Our Reserves are important to secure
the future of the programme and for funding working capital during the year. To support our drive for more
stable funding, we have created a new class of Major Sponsor as Foundation Sponsors for those willing to
commit for two years or more. To date we already have three Foundation Sponsors.
Hugh Beevor
Hon. Treasurer
6
TEXPRINT 2010 PRIZE JUDGES AND STARS AT FIRST VIEW, CHELSEA COLLEGE OF ART & DESIGN
H IGHLIGHTS OF 2010
BACKGROUND
Great Britain continues to be recognised as a major source of original textile design. British studios were
the largest national contingent of exhibitors at INDIGO, Paris, September 2010, making up 51% of the
show, and of those 9% were Texprint alumni, with many others working for other British and international
studios.
Texprint is the main link for new graduate textile designers seeking work in a world market arena.
New top talent is made easily accessible to international industry.
TEXPRINT 2010
First View, London and Prize Judging Day for sixth year at The Triangle Building, generously provided
by Chelsea College of Art and Design.
Third year of the ComON Texprint inter-college competition creating new links between Texprint and
the top UK universities, and a complementary attraction at First View.
Fifth year of The Chairman’s Prize – guests and visitors to the London events voted for their choice;
Chairman’s Private View a great success; Texprint News developed; highest ever level of visitors to First
View.
Exciting show of talent - good proportion of disciplines across 24 young designers selected from the best
print, knit, weave, embroidery and mixed-media courses in UK colleges.
Dedicated exhibition space for Texprint Silk Scarf Competition at Indigo kindly given by Indigo
Record commissions and freelance positions at Indigo despite ongoing difficulties in economic climate:
Commissions doubled against last year, and placements were up from 14 to 17. Twenty two out of the
twenty four designers sold, making a total of 102 sales to 48 clients.
Louise Trotter, Creative Director of Joseph presented the prizes at INDIGO.
2010
Texprint 2011: Dynamic new developments in the pipeline and new sponsors needed.
7
THE PRIZE JUDGES DISCUSSING THEIR SELECTION
PETER COPPING, NINA RICCI, PRIZE JUDGE OF BREAKING NEW GROUND TALKS TO
SUSIE FOSTER ABOUT HER WORK
PRIZE JUDGES PETER COPPING, JACQUELINE EDNIE AND SALLY TAYLOR OF
BURBERRY (MAJOR SPONSORS) DERRICK CAMPBELL OF LYLE & SCOTT (KNIT PRIZE
DONORS), SARA CALOSI AND ELENA ALFANI OF SALVATORE FERRAGAMO
(SUPPORTERS), WAKAKO KISHIMOTO AND DONNA WILSON FOR HEALʼS ANNOUNCE
MANAGEMENT R EPORT
THE PRIZE WINNERS
Continuing Success for Texprint
Although this has been a very difficult year for fundraising, the Texprint programme successfully delivered twenty-four
new textile design talents to the industry, plus two inter-college competitions –the 3rd ComON Texprint competition
and the Silk Scarf competition, all of which provided a fitting finale to the last year of Julius Schofield’s chairmanship,
as mentioned in the Chairman’s report. Following their display at Direction in New York in January, the winning designs
in last year’s Silk Scarf competition were on sale in the prestigious scarf department in Liberty, resulting in much
publicity. First View, which took place once again in the venue kindly donated by Chelsea College of Art & Design,
proved to be very successful, with a strong set of judges and displays of both inter-college competitions. The Chairman’s
Prize was presented by Sir Stuart Rose at the Marks & Spencer flagship store. Indigo, despite being reduced to three
days with the rest of Premiere Vision Pluriel, was extremely enlightening and rewarding for the young designers, with
commissions, freelance work offers and placements up on last year. The Prize Presentation provided the opportunity
for Julius Schofield MBE to announce his retirement and formally hand over to Barbara Kennington, who introduced
Louise Trotter, Creative Director of Joseph, as Prize Presenter. Once again, the six prizewinners had the opportunity to
exhibit in Hong Kong at Interstoff Asia Essential, sponsored by Messe Frankfurt (HK), which they all found a very
enriching experience.
Ever wider interest from Colleges and Universities.
There was a total of 218 submissions, with 175 students nominated from 30 colleges being interviewed. The
newcomer institute this year was the Arts University at Bournemouth. The liaison between tutors and Texprint
continues to be good, resulting in better understanding of Texprint’s criteria for selection. As before, some
colleges did not participate this year as they felt they had no candidates they considered right for Texprint, but
hope to be back again next year.
2010
Interview Panels - The Selection
This involved 36 professionals, and included some new names recommended by Council Members. We owe
them huge thanks for giving a day of their time along with their invaluable expertise and enthusiasm. We do
sometimes get feed back from students interviewed but not selected, and invariably they comment on how
valuable they found the experience and how much the Panels' comments had helped them to see their work in
a totally new way. The final selection was 8 Print / 5 Knit / 5 Weave / 6 Mixed Media. The quality of graduates
work was very high, making the final choice a challenge and resulting in fewer reserves. Knit and Weave were
slightly down in final numbers but complimented by strong Print and Mixed Media.
Three of the six prize winners were drawn from Central St Martin’s College of Art & Design, with one each
from the University of Brighton, Cleveland College of Art & Design and the Royal College of Art.
8
JACQUELINE EDNIE AND SALLY TAYLOR, BURBERRY (MAJOR SPONSORS) WITH JOHN
HODGES
AND
JOHN
SNOWDON,
WORSHIPFUL
COMPANY
OF
WEAVERS
(SUPPORTERS) AT THE PRIVATE VIEW RECEPTION, FIRST VIEW, CHELSEA COLLEGE
JANE ASHLEY, THE LAURA ASHLEY FOUNDATION (MAJOR SPONSORS) WITH CLARE
JOHNSTON, PROFESSOR OF TEXTILES, RCA AT PRIVATE VIEW, FIRST VIEW
OF ART & DESIGN
ALASTAIR ROSS, DRAPERSʼ COMPANY (MAJOR SPONSORS) TALKS TO RACHAEL
HEWSON AT FIRST VIEW
HAROLD TILLMAN CBE, CHAIRMAN BRITISH FASHION COUNCIL, JAEGER AND
AQUASCUTUM (MAJOR SPONSORS) WITH BARBARA HORSPOOL, NEW LOOK (MAJOR
SPONSORS) AND ERIC MUSGRAVE, UKFT (SUPPORTERS) AT PRIVATE VIEW FIRST
2010
VIEW
EMMA MAWSTON, LIBERTY ART FABRICS (PRINT PRIZE DONORS) WITH REBECCA
PHOENIX LU, WINNER OF THE PRINT PRIZE
DERRICK CAMPBELL AND ENID BROWNE, LYLE & SCOTT (KNIT PRIZE DONORS AND
JUDGES), TALKING TO ELENA MUNOZ, WINNER OF THE KNIT CATEGORY
9
ANDREW BLESSLEY, CLOTHWORKERSʼ FOUNDATION (MAJOR SPONSORS AND WEAVE
ANDREW STEVENSON, WINNER OF THE INTERIOR FASHION PRIZE, WITH DOMINIC
WEAVE PRIZE WINNER AT FIRST VIEW
BINNS AT FIRST VIEW
PRIZE DONORS) TAKES A CLOSER LOOK AT THE WORK OF HOLLY BRADLEY-GILL,
REBECCA PHOENIX LU, PRINT PRIZE WINNER WITH ALISON SMART, RA SMART
TEXTILE PRINTERS (SUPPORTERS AND IN-KIND DONORS) AT FIRST VIEW
LOWE (MAJOR SPONSORS AND DONOR OF INTERIOR FASHION PRIZE), WITH FIONA
HAROLD TILLMAN CBE, BRITISH FASHION COUNCIL, JAEGER AND AQUASCUTUM
(MAJOR SPONSORS) WITH SANDY VERDON, HOBBS (SUPPORTERS) AT THE PRIVATE
VIEW
PRIZE JUDGING, LONDON
As before, we were indebted to the retiring Chairman, Julius Schofield, in obtaining high profile judges to select
the special prize winners this year. The prize judges were Peter Copping, Creative Director of Nina Ricci for
Breaking New Ground,Wakako Kishimoto of Eley Kishimoto for Colour, Donna Wilson for Heal’s for Interior
Fashion, Derrick Campbell, CEO Lyle & Scott for Knit, Elena Alfani of Salvatore Ferragamo for Print and
Sally Taylor of Burberry for Weave. The judges were all very impressed with the high quality of creativity.
Three of the 2009 prize donors - Pantone Europe, Liberty Art Fabrics and Lyle & Scott continued with their
sponsorship for 2010, for which we are very grateful, with Liberty Art Fabrics pledging their support for the
Print prize for three years. Once again The Sanderson Art in Industry Trust kindly agreed to add the prize of
Interior Fashion to their Major Sponsorship donation. The Breaking New Ground prize was sponsored for the
first time by the Pentland Group and The Clothworkers’ Foundation also generously added the Weave prize
to their Major Sponsorship, which they later pledged to continue for the next three years. Texprint is, as always,
indebted to the benevolence of the prize donors.
The prize judges were enthusiastic in their praise of the Texprint programme:
Derrick Campbell commented “Texprint’s great value to the industry is not only the support it gives to the designers
but also the way it keeps the industry aware of new thinking. New graduates bring creativity and a fresh approach to
the industry - sometimes they can inspire you towards a fresh spin on your own business.”
Wakako Kishimoto reflected “New graduates are to the industry as oxygen is to the blood stream. Without a regular
new supply of it, the whole system would simply deteriorate and cease to survive. A promotional mechanism like Texprint
can give them a wider opportunity in the early stages of their career.”
Sally Taylor said “During my time at Burberry I have recognised the growing importance of the Texprint programme
– in fact, many of the key creative personnel are graduates of the RCA and subsequently alumni of Texprint. It is apparent
that Texprint fulfils an important function, bridging the period between an individual’s education and the beginning of
their professional experience.”
2010
LONDON EVENTS AND CHAIRMAN’S PRIZE
For the sixth year, the retiring Chairman very generously sponsored the Private View which was well attended,
and included representatives from sponsors and supporters such as Burberry, Jaeger, New Look, Liberty Art
Fabrics, Marks & Spencer, WGSN and The Worshipful Company of Weavers, as well as many from the major
art colleges and universities.
The winner of the Chairman’s Prize, created and sponsored by the retiring Chairman, was as always chosen by
visitors to the Private View and First View, and the prize presenter was Sir Stuart Rose who has been a stalwart
supporter of Texprint for many years. The presentation took place on September 7 at the Marks & Spencer
flagship store at Marble Arch. The winner was Andrew Stevenson from the RCA, who also won the Interior
Fashion prize.
10
COMON TEXPRINT ʻWATERʼ COMPETITION SPONSORED BY CONFINDUSTRIA COMO
PAOLO NOSEDA, CONFINDUSTRIA COMO (MAJOR SPONSORS)
AT CHELSEA COLLEGE OF ART & DESIGN
COMPETITION
(MAJOR SPONSORS) DISPLAYED DURING FIRST VIEW IN THE FOUNDATION STUDIOS
AND BARBARA
HORSPOOL, NEW LOOK (MAJOR SPONSORS) JUDGES OF THE COMON TEXPRINT
12th FIRST VIEW EXHIBITION
Once again, Chelsea College of Art & Design generously donated the use of the Triangle Building and the
Foundation Studio for First View, again sponsored by the Laura Ashley Foundation. The mentoring given by
the Texprint team, together with the ‘Need to Know’ pack sponsored as before by the Worshipful Company of
Weavers and a workshop on copyright by Simon Gallant of Gallant Macmillan helped prepare the young
designers in depth for their professional careers. The ‘Texprint News’ edited by Brenda Polan and Sean Chiles
once again provided invaluable background to the 24 Texprint stars and the judges, for which we are very
grateful.
This year the display at the entrance featured a selection from the new collection of Alice Temperley. The
product display presented work by Michael Angove (1995) Leigh Cooke (1995) Caitlin Hinshelwood (2006),
Rosie De Borman (2006) Akiko Kingsbury (2001) Ed Forster (2007) for Liberty Art Fabrics, Alice Palmer
(2007) Eleanor Pritchard (2001) Jessica Quinton (1986) for Quinton Chadwick, Margo Selby (2001) and
Emma Sewell (1990) for Wallace Sewell.
The twelfth First View event was also attended by some of last year’s alumni who were invited for the first time,
and the intention is to open First View to all alumni and all invited visitors, rather than only major sponsors and
supporters, as now virtually no actual buying takes place by supporters. Although there were no sales, placements
were offered by Ratti, Salvatore Ferragamo, Marks & Spencer, Johnson Cheyne Design and Pentland Group.
This year the display included the 3rd ComON Texprint competition exhibition and the Texprint Silk Scarf
competition, which together with First View proved to be a real crowd puller and a grand finale for the last year
of Julius Schofield’s chairmanship. We are indebted to Barbara Horspool and New Look for so generously
creating all the displays at First View.
THE TEXPRINT INTER-COLLEGE COMPETITIONS
ComONTexprint Competition: This was supported by major sponsors Confindustria Como (formerly Como
Unione Industriali), and had a different approach this year; the theme was ‘Water’, with submitted outfits to
include weave, print and embroidery. Barbara Horspool of New Look and Paolo Noseda were the judges, and
the winner was Chelsea College of Art & Design, second was Ravensbourne and third was Brighton. The
designers were given a financial prize and the opportunity to visit the ComON conference in Italy.
The ComON week in Como continued to focus on showing the 40 international textile and fashion graduates
invited how Como functions through many seminars, exhibitions and industry visits (notably Canepa SpA, Ratti,
Mantero and Clarici Tessuto and their famous archives). Visit to The Fondazione Ratti Textile Museum and a
TrendsON presentation by Li Edelkoort were exemplary additions carried over from last year. Several interactive
workshops included Politecnico Milano presentations of their involvement with new Chinese Textile designers
and creating the mood boards for Moda di Mare at the Accademia di Belle Arti, to be shown at the exhibition
in Cannes in November. The visit to Hugo Boss HQ in Switzerland was a major highlight, with the opportunity
to meet designers Anton Magnani and Ian Allen (ex RCA).
2010
The 3 winning Water Competition garments were presented by their creators to the international graduates
attending at the Politecnico Como. The ETT group (European Textile Technology) also presented their work
from their studies at the Dutch Textil Museum in Tilburg.
Texprint Silk Scarf competition: This was the third and final year of the silk scarf competition, and was staged
through the generosity of retiring Chairman Julius Schofield MBE, with the theme of ‘I love Paris’. The judges
were Gilles Lasbordes of Indigo, who had kindly agreed to make available a large display area for the scarves
at Indigo in September, and Elena Alfani of Salvatore Ferragamo. The standard was agreed to be higher than
ever, and the submitted designs were presented in an exhibition in the Foundation Studio, with the prize winners
announced at an event on the Thursday evening, attended by representatives from all the major art colleges as
well as the judges. The winner was the University of East London, second was Loughborough and third was
Cleveland, and the winner was invited to attend the ComON event as well.
11
INTERESTED ACTIVITY IN THE TEXPRINT VILLAGE AT INDIGO, PARIS IN SEPTEMBER
LOUISE TROTTER, JULIUS SCHOFIELD MBE, BARBARA KENNINGTON AND GILLES
LOUISE TROTTER AND JULIUS SCHOFIELD MBE TALK TO ANDREW BOYD, COLOUR
BARBARA KENNINGTON, NEW CHAIRMAN, WELCOMES GUESTS TO THE PRIZE
PRIZE WINNER, ABOUT HIS WORK
LASBORDES AT INDIGO
PRESENTATION AT INDIGO
SIGNIFICANT ACTIVITY AT TEXPRINT AT INDIGO, PARIS
As part of Premiere Vision Pluriel, Indigo reduced its duration to three days from four, with considerable activity
on the first day in particular. Indigo had 12,046 visitors of whom 71% were international. There were 175
exhibitors from 14 countries (up from 163 exhibitors from 12 countries in 2009), of which 83 were British, and
of those 9 were Texprint alumni, with many other alumni working for other British and international studios.
Twenty-two of the twenty-four of the designers sold, making a total of 102 sales from 48 clients (down from the
record 132 from 62 clients in 2009). However, commissions doubled to 29 against 14 last year, and placements
also were up from 14 to 17 this year, though job offers declined to 10 from 15 last year, reflecting the continuing
uncertainties in the industry. The total number of contacts was slightly down at 329 (369 in 2009) with the UK
still in the lead at 90 (113 in 2009) and France next at 56 (62 in 2009), but Italy was up to 45 from 39, replacing
the USA in third place, and 26 from Spain, up 100% from last year. However it should be pointed out that not
every contact is necessarily written down by the individual designers, and this year they appeared to have been
more selective in general.
2010
As last year, companies individually bought less but were spread widely. The largest individual buyers were from
Spain - Custo (17 designs from 4 designers) and Calao (8 from 2) and Italian companies buying included
Eurojersey (bought 6 from 1 designer), Stefanel, Star SpA, Marco Fantini and L’Altra Moda SpA. Other brands
who bought included Chico’s, Descamps, Brigid Maclaughlin, Desigual, East, Fenn Wright & Manson, Guy
Laroche, Jorge Fusco, Hanno Stoffo, Les Tissus Marey, Lululemonathletica, Monsoon Accessorise, Munthe Plus
Simonsen, Nautica, Nelly Rodi, Printland, Rachel Roy, Stewo International, Tracy Reese, Ugg, Urban Outfitters,
Valdese Weavers, White Stuff and Yumi Uttam, and contacts included Anthropologie, Boden, Closed, Colorfield,
Confetti, Didier Parakian, Eres, Erica, Industria Tessile, Eyefix International, Fabbi, Fat Face, Fiorucci, Fusion,
Gerard Duval, H&M, Hiroko Koshino, Isabel Marant, John Galliano, Kate Spade, KBC, Lola et Moi, Maje,
Marimekko, Masfer Su, Nathalie d’Anvers, Next, Nike, Rachel Roy, Radley & Co, Rohnisch Sportswear, RSD Lab,
Swarovski, Tom Cody Designs, Uniqlo, Vlisco, Wrangler and Zucchi Group.
12
ELENA MUNOZ WITH SU WANG, DIRECTOR OF MONDIAL ATELIER AND HER TEAM AT
THE SIX TEXPRINT 2009 PRIZE WINNERS AT INTERSTOFF ASIA ESSENTIAL,
CATHERINE LEE FROM UKT&I HONG KONG WITH HOLLY BRADLEY-GILL AND
REBECCA PHOENIX LU WITH BUYERS FROM WILSON TEXTILES, PART OF LI & FUNG
INTERSTOFF ASIA ESSENTIAL IN HONG KONG
ANDREW BOYD AT INTERSTOFF ASIA ESSENTIAL
HONG KONG IN OCTOBER 2010.
GROUP, AT INTERSTOFF ASIA ESSENTIAL
PRIZE PRESENTATION BY LOUISE TROTTER, CREATIVE DIRECTOR
The Prize Presentation was the opportunity for Julius Schofield to announce his retirement and formally hand
over to Barbara Kennington, who introduced Louise Trotter, Creative Director of Joseph, as Prize Presenter.
The audience included Eric Musgrave, chairman of UKFT, Moritz Mantero, Luigi Turconi, Ratti, Giuseppina
Shah, View Publications, Paolo Noseda of Confindustria Como and Gin Pau from the British Embassy. Gilles
Lasbordes, director of Indigo said a few words in welcome.
SIX PRIZE WINNERS PRESENT TO FAR EAST MARKETS
Messe Frankfurt (HK) continued with their in-kind sponsorship of Texprint, maintained at the same level as last
year ie donation of exhibition space plus some financial support. As costs have increased significantly, the hotel
costs were paid by the prize winners themselves and Texprint.
The organizers, Messe Frankfurt (HK), continue to express enthusiasm for Texprint and what it brings to the
show, and created special signage and larger exhibition stands. The number of exhibitors increased slightly from
last year – a total of 248 from 12 countries, with the emphasis continuing on eco, sustainable, functional and
fashionable fabrics and accessories. The show coincided with a one-off event – the 26th IAF World Convention,
as well as featuring 5 different catwalk shows. There was a total of 6,860 buyers from 46 countries and regions.
Generally the contacts were from Asian based companies, with fewer Western buying departments in evidence.
It was also quieter on the press side, with the main coverage given to the IAF Conference.
2010
Total significant contacts numbered 60 from 11 countries – although far fewer than last year (219 from 15
countries), the Texprint designers were selective and did not put down those who simply gave their card without
interacting. They were mainly local/Asian companies; 1 designer sold a design and another had possible
commissions from 5 companies.
We were very pleased to welcome Catherine Lee, assistant to John Woodruffe of the UKT&I who visited from
the British Consulate/General – Joann Kok has moved on. As before,, the Texprint prize winners found the
experience very positive and encouraging, with valuable lessons learnt from interacting with manufacturers
directly.
13
PIECES FROM THE COLLECTION OF ALICE BY TEMPERLEY THE NEW RANGE BY ALICE
TEMPERLEY MBE (TEXPRINT ʻ99) ON DISPLAY AT ENTRANCE OF FIRST VIEW, CHELSEA
COLLEGE OF ART & DESIGN IN JULY
SALLY TAYLOR, HEAD OF FABRICS, BURBERRY WITH JACQUELINE EDIE (TEXPRINT
ʻ99) ALSO AT BURBERRY CONSIDER WORK FOR THE WEAVE PRIZE AT FIRST VIEW,
KANAKO KAJIHARA (TEXPRINT ʻ05) AND HER ASSISTANT SHOW HER NEW
DEVELOPMENTS AT THE TOKYO OFFICES OF SOTOH/DAIDOH
A SELECTION OF CURRENT WORK BY TEXPRINT ALUMNI DISPLAYED AT FIRST VIEW
JULY 2010
ALUMNI SUCCESSES
News of alumni from the past two years shows the effectiveness of the Texprint programme:
Andrew Stevenson (’10) and Isabel Fishlock (‘10) are both working at PAUL SMITH with other alumni
including Elizabeth Jones (’08); Andrew Boyd (’10) and Hannah Winton (’10) are both designing at RATTI in
six month placements; Gemma Waggett (’10) is working with DAMIEN HIRST and freelancing for DIESEL and
SELVEDGE magazine; Samantha Leutton (’10) spent 6 months at STOLL in China, and is freelancing with
ANTHROPOLOGIE, LION RAMPANT and PLUM TEXTILES; Kezia Lewis (’10) is freelancing for MINT and
PATTERN PEOPLE; Tiphaine Piggott (’10), having worked with BURBERRY, ALEXANDER MCQUEEN and
SAMANTHA SHAW, has started a MA at the RCA; Florence Salazar (’10) is with CHARLES ANASTASE; Rebecca
Phoenix Lu (’10) has worked with WHISTON & WRIGHT and CRABTREE & EVELYN and is interviewing for
position at H&M in Sweden; Ruth Davis (’09) is at ELEY KISHIMOTO; Martha Steadman (’09) and Hollie
Maloney (’09) are both at JAEGER; Laura McPherson (’09) worked at MISSONI and then EAST CENTRAL
STUDIOS; Fiona Binns (’09) is at JOHNSTONS OF ELGIN; Rene de Lange (’09) is designing at LARCH
ROSE LTD, whose customers include CALVIN KLEIN, VANESSA BRUNO, M&S, URBAN OUTFITTERS,
TOPSHOP; Tamara Vodden (’09) is designing for KEELER GORDON; Natasha Mohide (’09) is at VANNERS
SILK WEAVERS; Nancy Taplin (’09) had a sold-out exhibition at COURCOUX & COURCOUX GALLERY
Other companies with whom Texprint alumni are currently working with or have recently worked with include:
CELINE, MATTHEW WILLIAMSON, VICTORIA’S SECRET, HUGO BOSS, THE PENTLAND GROUP PLC,
DIANE VON FURSTENBERG, CALVIN KLEIN, GUY LAROCHE, HERMES, COSMIQUE GLOBAL, THE
EMBROIDERERS’ GUILD, NATIONAL TRUST, MIROGLIO, HAND & LOCK, ALISON WILLOUGHBY,
AVSHALOM GUR, NINA CAMPBELL, MATALAN, FULTON UMBRELLAS, AMTICO, PARRY MURRAY,
LIBERTY ART FABRICS, CATHERINE WALKER, THE COLOURFIELD, BCBG MAX AZRIA, SALVATORE
FERRAGAMO, CUSTO, MISSONI, JATO, LEGGIUNO SpA, SOTOH/DAIDOH, ALEXANDER MCQUEEN,
VANNERS, STELLA MACARTNEY, WGSN, WHISTLES, BAMFORD, HABITAT, MIROGLIO, CERRUTI1881,
CELINE, DASHING TWEEDS, INTERFASHION
2010
Those Texprint alumni who have set up their own companies include:
Alice Temperley (’99), Louise Goldin (’07) and Angela Cassidy (’06) have their own catwalk collections; Beth
Parry (’10), Victoria Purver (‘06) have their own studios; Emily Sedgwick (’98), Lisa Jukes (’98) and James
Stone (’98) established their own group studio, CODE; Laura Watson (’90) has her own label and shop,
SALTWATER; Margo Selby (‘01) has her own shop/gallery; Michael Angove (’01), Genevieve Bennett (‘00),
Caitlin Hishelwood (’06) and Rosie de Boorman (’06) have their own interior collections.
Additional news on alumni can be found in the final pages of this report.
14
SUZANNE SMITH WITH BUYERS FROM CUSTO BARCELONA, SPAIN AT INDIGO
BARBARA KENNINGTON, NEW CHAIRMAN WITH PAUL ALGER AND ERIC MUSGRAVE,
MARIO RATTI AND LUIGI TURCONI, RATTI (SUPPORTERS) CONSIDER HANNAH
SANDEEP MANKATALA, COSMIQUE GLOBAL, TALKS TO JOSIE WARDEN AT INDIGO
WINTONʼS WORK AT INDIGO
UKFT AT THE PRIZE PRESENTATION AT INDIGO
TEXPRINT WEBSITE
This has already been touched on in the Chairman’s Report on page 5. The new website www.texprint.org.uk
has already had an enthusiastic reception from industry professionals, but there is still much to do, and the
(part-time) role of On-Line Community Manager has been created to maintain contacts and update the website
throughout the year. Dominic Lowe of the Sanderson Art in Industry Trust has kindly offered £2k towards
paying for the role. We have exciting plans to increase awareness of the Texprint programme, the talent and our
sponsors with the new website at the hub. The Alumni section will play a significant part in developing contacts
with alumni, including those working with potential supporters. Texprint’s Facebook page is already set up and
running.
For the first time all invitations to First View and Indigo were sent out by e-mail by our new in-kind supporters,estyle, which reduced our costs significantly. Each invitation was followed up by 2 reminders, and was a valuable
tool in updating our data base. All Sponsors and supporters were listed on each of the 6 mail-outs, each with
a link to their website.
TEXPRINT IN THE MEDIA
Gill Gledhill of GGHQ, a long-term member of the Texprint Council and highly experienced in the textile and
fashion PR world, started press coverage earlier than before by writing press releases in January and February
for the Scarf Competition winners at Liberty, as well as giving a seminar to the sales staff there. There was
extensive coverage on the Texprint inter-college competitions, Texprint and the new Chairman by YSH, Arts
Thread, Drapers, Knitting Industry, Fashion Monitor, View, Media Box Diary and Textiles.
Nine press releases were issued in total, including one for Interstoff Asia Essential.
2010
Examples of editorial coverage of Texprint and news of alumni are on pages 23-43
15
INTERNATIONAL PROFESSIONALS MEET THE TEXPRINT
STARS AT INDIGO, PARIS
JULIUS SCHOFIELD MBE, RETIRING CHAIRMAN TEXPRINT WITH MORITZ MANTERO AND PAOLO NOSEDA,
CONFINDUSTRIA COMO (MAJOR SPONSORS) AT INDIGO, PARIS
SPONSORSHIP R EPORT
2010 has been a particularly difficult year for financial sponsorship due to continuing tough conditions in the industry,
but fortunately Texprint has magnificent sponsors and certain reserves built up over the previous years that are helping
to mitigate the impact.
The charities and livery companies have been increasingly the bedrock of our funding, for which we are extremely
grateful. The CLOTHWORKERS’ FOUNDATION maintained their donation, and have generously indicated that
they will raise their pledge for three years, to include the Weave prize. The DRAPERS’ COMPANY also continued as
major sponsors, and have already renewed their support for the next three years, with a slight increase. As mentioned
earlier, the SANDERSON ART IN INDUSTRY TRUST kindly agreed to increase their contribution to cover the
Interior Fashion prize. The LAURA ASHLEY FOUNDATION once again generously raised their contribution, while
The GARFIELD WESTON FOUNDATION, HABERDASHERS’ COMPANY and THE WORSHIPFUL COMPANY
OF WEAVERS maintained their support; LORD BARNBY’S FOUNDATION raised their contribution, and we were
pleased to receive support for the first time from the WORSHIPFUL COMPANY OF WORLD TRADERS.
Income this year was hit in part by actions of two of our longest-standing Major Sponsors. Our largest, THE COTTON
INDUSTRY WAR MEMORIAL TRUST, has been one of the founder sponsors of Texprint; they have reduced their
contribution this year and next year, and thereafter cease altogether. We are extremely grateful for their valuable
support over the years. Although AWI (AUSTRALIAN WOOL INNOVATION) did not support the Texprint programme
this year, we are delighted that, as WOOLMARK INTERNATIONAL SUPPORTING THE CAMPAIGN FOR WOOL
they have committed to Texprint for the next two years with a new award, already referred to in the Chairman’s Report.
The other Major Sponsors all continued with their support, and once again Julius Schofield was invaluable in
maintaining the continuation of BURBERRY, DIANE VON FURSTENBERG, CONFINDUSTRIA COMO, NEW
LOOK and JAEGER. We are also indebted for their continuing support to INDIGO and MARKS & SPENCER.
We were delighted that LYLE & SCOTT, PANTONE EUROPE and LIBERTY ART FABRICS continued their prize
sponsorship, and that PENTLAND GROUP became new prize donors. All our 2009 supporters continued for 2010,
which was very encouraging and for which we are extremely grateful. RA SMART TEXTILE PRINTERS continued
with their financial and in-kind support.
The support of publishers VIEW PUBLICATIONS and COLLEZIONI TRENDS continued with editorial features as
well as kindly donating advertising space. GALLANT MACMILLAN, MESSE FRANKFURT (HK), MODE
INFORMATION, TORAY TEXTILES EUROPE and WGSN continued their support in-kind.
2010
TEXPRINT 2011
As mentioned above, a recent development is that two of our long-term Major Sponsors have pledged their support
for the next three years - THE CLOTHWORKERS’ FOUNDATION and THE DRAPERS’ COMPANY - and from
2011 they will be acknowledged as Foundation Sponsors. We very much hope that our much-valued other
supporters will join them in taking this longer-term view. Raising sponsorship for 2011 will undoubtedly continue
to be extraordinarily tough in the face of the world economic situation and rising costs, which have been cut
wherever possible. We will maintain our budget at the same level as the last two years, and particular focus will be
on trying to achieve commitment for at least two, if not three, years, in order to create a more stable, forward-looking
organization. As always, Texprint is deeply indebted to the invaluable benevolence of its sponsors and supporters to
continue its work.
MANAGEMENT TEAM
Joanna Bowring, Helga Goldman, Peter Ring-Lefevre
16
JULIUS SCHOFIELD MBE, RETIRING CHAIRMAN, GIVES EMMA BRADBURY HER
BARBARA KENNINGTON, CHAIRMAN, WITH GIUSEPPINA SHAH, VIEW PUBLICATIONS
MARIE ODILE VERRIER, PREMIERE VISION, JOANNA NEICHO, INDESIGN AND ANNE
JULIUS SCHOFIELD MBE RETIRING CHAIRMAN WITH LUIGI TURCONI, RATTI
JULIUS SCHOFIELD MBE, LOUISE TROTTER AND PETER RING-LEFEVRE TALK TO
JACQUES BRUNEL PREMIÈRE VISION, MALCOLM CAMPBELL, PHILIPPA WATKINS RCA
VIEW OF BUSY AISLES IN THE TEXPRINT VILLAGE IN HALL 5 AT INDIGO
THE SILK SCARF GALLERY NEXT TO THE TEXPRINT VILLAGE AT INDIGO
TEXPRINT CERTIFICATE AT INDIGO
TYRRELL MBE AT INDIGO
(SUPPORTERS)
AND PETER RING-LEFEVRE AT INDIGO
2010
ELENA MUNOZ, WINNER OF KNIT PRIZE, ABOUT HER WORK
(PUBLISHING SPONSOR)
17
2010
TEXPRINT 2010
INDUSTRY PROFESSIONAL MEMBERS OF
SELECTION PANELS
Michael Angove
Michael Angove Wallpapers
Neil Bamford
Mint Design
Catherine Barber
Design Consultant
Joanna Bowring
Designer & Texprint
Sue Caines
Cainesclark Ltd
Vanessa Calver
Design Consultant
Sarah Cheyne
Johnson Cheyne
Sarah Dallas
Designer & Tutor - RCA
David Edmond
Edmond Textile Design
Beryl Gibson
Design Consultant
Eileen Gleeson
Design Union
Philippa George
The Collection
Ruth Greany
Design Consultant & WGSN
Katie Greenyer
Design Director - Pentland Group
Toni Hicks
Designer & Tutor - Brighton
Caitlin Hinshelwood
Designer
Janet Holbrook
Holbrook Studio/Peclers Paris
Rebecca Hoyes
Rebecca Hoyes Studio
Chris Judge
Chris Judge Design
Jaqui Lewis
Lewis & Lewis Design
Jaine McCormack
Guy Goodfellow
Chantelle Morton
Design Consultant & Tutor
Helen Palmer
Design Consultant & WGSN
Greg Parsons
Design Consultant
Tiphaine Pigott
Designer
Eleanor Pritchard
Eleanor Pritchard Textile Design
Katharine Pulford
Design Consultant
Jessica Quinton
Quinton & Chadwick Knit Studio
Ernesto Rivera
Designer/Weaver
Emma Sewell
Wallace Sewell
Jeremy Somers
Circle Line
Lisa Stannard
Designer
Nicola Strathearn
Designer
Anna Wheeler
Design Consultant
Clare Whiston
Whiston & Wright
Sarah Wilson
Design Consultant
Melissa Wright
Whiston & Wright
Texprint is extremely grateful to the Selection Panel members for their generosity in giving
both their time and their professional expertise in the interviews.
18
G RADUATE DESIGNER SELECTION TEXPRINT 2010
BY MAJOR DISCIPLINE WITH COLLEGES
PRINT
ANDREW BOYD
SARAH CLAYDON
JENNA GIBSON
KOKO KASUGAI
KEZIA LEWIS
REBECCA LU
SUZANNE SMITH
LAURA WILSON
MIXED MEDIA
ISABEL FISHLOCK
SUSIE FOSTER
BETH PARRY
MAGDALENA STASIEWSKA
SOPHIE TANNER
JOSIE WARDEN
KNIT
EMMA BRADBURY
RACHAEL HEWSON
FUMIKO KOZUKA
ELENA MUNOZ
FLORENCE SALAZAR
WEAVE
HOLLY BRADLEY-GILL
EMMA LOUGHTON
SARAH PODLESNY
ANDREW STEVENSON
HANNAH WINTON
CLEVELAND COLLEGE OF ART & DESIGN
CLEVELAND COLLEGE OF ART & DESIGN
ROYAL COLLEGE OF ART (MA)
B UCKINGHAMSHIRE N EW U NIVERSITY (BA)
CENTRAL SAINT MARTINS COLLEGE OF ART & DESIGN
GLASGOW SCHOOL OF ART
U NIVERSITY OF B RIGHTON
HERIOT-WATT U NIVERSITY
WINCHESTER SCHOOL OF ART
CENTRAL SAINT MARTINS COLLEGE OF ART & DESIGN
ROYAL COLLEGE OF ART (MA)
CHELSEA COLLEGE OF ART & DESIGN (BA)
CHELSEA COLLEGE OF ART & DESIGN
E DINBURGH COLLEGE OF ART
LOUGHBOROUGH U NIVERSITY, SCHOOL OF ART & DESIGN
UNIVERSITY COLLEGE FALMOUTH
ROYAL COLLEGE OF ART (MA)
WINCHESTER SCHOOL OF ART (BA)
NORTHUMBRIA U NIVERSITY
CHELSEA COLLEGE OF ART & DESIGN
CENTRAL SAINT MARTINS COLLEGE OF ART & DESIGN
CENTRAL SAINT MARTINS COLLEGE OF ART & DESIGN
CENTRAL SAINT MARTINS COLLEGE OF ART & DESIGN
U NIVERSITY OF B RIGHTON
CENTRAL SAINT MARTINS COLLEGE OF ART & DESIGN
ROYAL COLLEGE OF ART (MA)
DUNCAN OF JORDANSTONE COLLEGE OF ART & DESIGN,
U NIVERSITY OF DUNDEE (BA)
U NIVERSITY FOR THE CREATIVE ARTS, FARNHAM
"Texprint should be the highest priority on every student's agenda - to make it to the last 24 can and will open so many
doors and give you the face to face contacts that a letter cannot. You cannot believe what Texprint has made possible for
me." Andrew Boyd
"Thank you so much for all your help in Paris. I really learnt far more than I could ever have imagined. The whole
Texprint team have been so thoughtful, and it really has been a fantastic experience." Holly Bradley-Gill
"It has been absolutely invaluable and such an honour to have been chosen. I am so impressed by how smoothly the whole
operation ran, it was impeccable! Not to mention the bridge it has given me into the real world. I can't ever thank you
enough." Isabel Fishlock
2010
"I definitely feel more confident after being part of Texprint and although I have done work experience with leading
Scottish designers, its nothing quite of this calibre! I like to think that Texprint has definitely played a big part in giving
me better skills when presenting and talking about my work, so thank you to the Texprint team!" Kezia Lewis
Each designer selected to show at Texprint receives a ‘Certificate of Merit’
19
D ONORS, J UDGES & WINNERS
PRIZE J UDGING DAY WEDNESDAY 14TH J ULY 2010
CHELSEA COLLEGE OF ART & DESIGN, LONDON
BREAKING NEW GROUND PRIZE
given by PENTLAND GROUP PLC
£750 awarded for combining technical skill and
creative originality by
Peter Copping, NINA RICCI
SARAH PODLESNY - graduate of Central St Martins College of Art & Design
COLOUR PRIZE
given by PANTONE EUROPE
£750 awarded for the best use of colour by
Wakako Kishimoto ELEY KISHIMOTO
ANDREW BOYD - graduate of Cleveland College of Art & Design
KNIT PRIZE
given by LYLE & SCOTT
£750 awarded for the best knitted fabric or collection by
Derrick Campbell, CEO, LYLE & SCOTT
ELANA MUNOZ – graduate of Central St Martins College of Art & Design
INTERIOR FASHION PRIZE
given by SANDERSON ART IN INDUSTRY
£750 awarded for the best collection for interiors by
Donna Wilson for Heal’s
ANDREW STEVENSON – graduate of the Royal College of Art
PRINT PRIZE
given by LIBERTY ART FABRICS
£750 awarded for the best print
collection by Elena Alfani, SALVATORE FERRAGAMO
REBECCA PHOENIX LU – graduate of University of Brighton
WEAVE PRIZE
given by CLOTHWORKERS’ FOUNDATION
£750 awarded for the best woven collection by
Sally Taylor, BURBERRY
HOLLY BRADLEY-GILL - graduate of Central St Martin’s College of Art & Design
Louise Trotter, Creative Director Joseph presented the prizes at Indigo, Paris on 15th September
Messe Frankfurt(HK) sponsored the six prize winners to visit and exhibit in the ‘Designers’ Studio’ at
Interstoff Asia Essential, Hong Kong.
WGSN donated a year’s access to their website to the six prize winners
2010
R.A.Smart Textile Printers printed two lengths for the Print Prize winner to display at Indigo.
Toray Textiles Europe wove two lengths for the Weave Prize winner
20
TEXPRINT 2010 SPECIAL PRIZE WINNERS:
J UDGES’ & DESIGNERS’ COMMENTS
Peter Copping, Creative Director, Nina Ricci chose SARAH PODLESNY as
winner of the BREAKING NEW GROUND prize donated by PENTLAND GROUP
PLC, and commented “Sarah has very impressive techniques and I like the amount of research
she has put in; she starts with something relatively simple, that looked so much more fantastic
at the end…she really does answer the category.” Sarah says of her own work: “Depending
on the viewpoint, my woven designs express iridescent colour change and levels of translucency,
some even appearing to emit their own light.”
Wakako Kishimoto, Eley Kishimoto chose ANDREW BOYD as winner of the
COLOUR prize donated by PANTONE EUROPE: “Although he is not a natural colourist,
Andrew does not spare any effort – and is very passionate in making that effort – and discovers
extraordinary things he did not know before.” Andrew on his own work “Passion for hand
printing textile designs taking simple geometric forms to create intricate patterns.”
Donna Wilson for Heal’s chose ANDREW STEVENSON as winner of the
INTERIOR FASHION prize, donated by the SANDERSON ART IN INDUSTRY
TRUST and said “I find his work really beautiful, some of the colour is really startling, I like
the way he paints onto the warp and it becomes something other than weave - it looks very fresh
and contemporary, and could be either fashion or interiors –he is really interesting.” Andrew
describes his own work “My designs both woven and printed are inspired by a European
sailing voyage and the paintings of David Hockney and Henri Matisse.”
Derrick Campbell CEO and Edith Brown, Lyle & Scott chose ELENA MUNOZ
as winner of the KNIT prize, also sponsored by LYLE & SCOTT and said “We felt that
Elena’s ability to explain how her inspiration developed from insects and their shell structure,
through the science and three dimensional architecture, gave three different aspects which she
managed to convert into products with different combinations of knits and still the 3 dimensional
appeal.” Elena on her own work says “My“Organic Form” knitted designs are inspired by
architecture, the body and insects, translated by transparencies, layering and intertwining
bulky cables.”
Elena Alfani, Salvatore Ferragamo chose REBECCA PHOENIX LU as winner of
the PRINT prize, sponsored by LIBERTY ART FABRICS and said “I chose Rebecca for
the print prize because I found her work had a new forward direction with a very interesting
etched look and fine draftmanship- the type of work which will appeal to many top
international labels.” Rebecca describes her own work as “A juxtaposition of nature through
abstract, linear and feminine eyes. Progressive print designs based on the natural world through
the study of fluidity, asymmetry and composure of Art Nouveau and paper cut-out design.”
2010
Sally Taylor and Jacqueline Ednie, Burberry chose HOLLY BRADLEY-GILL as
winner of the WEAVE prize sponsored by THE CLOTHWORKERS’ FOUNDATION
“We chose Holly for her originality – her development and research was fabulous and very
strong, adaptable and versatile, and her translation from drawing to cloth was very considered.
She could go to Paris and work with the top designers – she has a beautiful colour sense and is
very hands-on.” Holly on her own work “I used a variety of yarns and structures, to create
playful woven textile designs with an elegant, feminine edge.”
21
SALLY TAYLOR, BURBERRRY (MAJOR SPONSORS) AND
WEAVE PRIZE JUDGE WITH PETER RING-LEFEVRE AT
PRIZE PRESENTATION AT INDIGO
ANDREW BOYD RECEIVES HIS TEXPRINT CERTIFICATE
FROM RETIRING CHAIRMAN JULIUS SCHOFIELD MBE
JULIUS SCHOFIELD MBE TALKS TO LOUISE TROTTER
AND PAOLO NOSEDA, CONFINDUSTRIA COMO (MAJOR
SPONSORS) IN THE TEXPRINT COMPETITION GALLERY
AT INDIGO
CREATIVE BUYING TEAM FROM ERICA INDUSTRIA
PETA
AT INDIGO
FOR WOOL AT INDIGO
TESSILE CONSIDER ANDREW STEVENSONʼS DESIGNS
SLACK
SMITH
FROM
AWI
(2011
MAJOR
SPONSORS) WITH PETER ACKROYD MBE, CAMPAIGN
GILLES LASBORDES, INDIGO (MAJOR SPONSORS),
LUIGI TURCONI, RATTI (SUPPPORTERS) AND PETER
RING-LEFEVRE AT TEXPRINT PRIZE PRESENTATION,
INDIGO
TEXPRINT PRIZE PRESENTATIONS
HAVE BEEN MADE AT INTERNATIONAL
SHOWS BY:
2010 Louise Trotter, Creative Director, JOSEPH
2009 Harold Tillman, CBE, Chairman, BRITISH FASHION COUNCIL,
JAEGER and AQUASCUTUM
2008 Sir Paul Smith
2007
Sir Peter Westmacott, KCMG LVO, H.M.Ambassador to France
2006 Alber Elbaz, Creative Director JEAN LANVIN
2005 Nathan Jenden, Creative Director DIANE von FURSTENBERG
2004 Nino Cerruti, CERRUTTI 1881
2003 Zandra Rhodes, CBE
2002 Ronald Weisbrod, WEISBROD-ZUERRER
2001 Luca Missoni, MISSONI Spa
2000 Nicole Farhi
1999 Brian Godbold, BRITISH FASHION COUNCIL
2010
1998 Betty Jackson, MBE
1997
Wilhelm Otten, JOSEF OTTEN GmbH
1996 Roberto Sarti, FALIERO SARTI & FIGLI SpA
1995 Amadeo Quaglino, T.J.S.S
1994 Klaus Kahle, ESCADA AG
1993 Bruce Oldfield, OBE
22
1992 Cavaliere Antonio Ratti, RATTI SPA
23
24
25
26
27
28
29
30
31
32
33
34
35
36
37
38
39
40
41
42
43
BUSY BUYERS INTENT ON FINDING THE NEWEST TALENT AT THE TEXPRINT ʻVILLAGEʼ AT INDIGO SEPTEMBER 2010